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scottmayson

Ultimaker Nozzle Mk2 for 3mm filament

by scottmayson Mar 31, 2012
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Where can i buy such a nozzle? Have a lot of problems with nozzle leaking. Thanks in advance.

I have been using this for over a year.... very good.

I've ordered a piece of PEEK at 5/8" (15.9mm) x 12" from Amazon. I'm going to try machining it myself. Thank you for designing this! I'm so tired of my nozzle leaking. I have it down to a very slow leak that requires me to wipe it off a couple of times per hour while printing.

I'm also ordering both 0.25 and 0.5mm Bighead Nozzles. Some things that I want to make are small and have fine details. I'm thinking things like threads could be cleaner with a smaller tip.

In fact, I'd like a dual (or more) head not for different colors or different materials, but number one reason is to have more than one head size. 

When making the part tap M6 all the way through so the Bowden and heater barrel meet.

I'm having trouble finding a tap long enough to tap through all 27mm. I'm in the USA. Any ideas? Otherwise I think I'll try tapping as far as I can, then using an M6 bold with hex head and with the end ground into a "D" shape to finish the threads, or grind down the shank on my M6 tap.

Things move so slowly sometimes with our own projects... I'm only now getting to trying to make one of these.

Thank you for the tip about joining the Bowden tube and the heater barrel, that makes sense. Not having much experience turning parts like this, I can see that should make it simpler to turn, as I can drill and tap from just one end.

New PDF drawing of PEEK parts avaliable 8-)

Is the geometry going to be any different for PEEK?

I'm getting quotes from workshops now to produce a part in PEEK with the existing geometry - so annoyed with the existing head design.

I'm going to put new drawings and parts up tomorrow AUS time. This design is for a markergear setup. Not the poorly designed UM heater barrel and nozzle.

Hey Scott... going to CNC mine, I don't have a lathe. :)

The measurements in your table napkin sketch don't match up to the measurements in the photo, or the stl file. Is the stl file the most recent or most accurate? Which one would you recommend I go off of?
thanks!

Chuck

Hi Chuck. See my comment above. Re new part files.

Hey Scott... I made a handful of these, in ptfe and peek. I am curious what temps you are running them at? At 245 the peek expanded and contricted the 1/8" hole and locked up the filament (ABS) You can see the two white ones in the attached pic with intact filament stuck in them. I made a peek one the next day and any escaping molten filament solidifies as soon as it touches it. I do love the makergear nozzle and tube though, less damage to the bed if you you have a z collision and the longer tube it nice. I ended up using the makergear nozzle with the old peek. The longer tube gives you some options. I am going to try this design again with longer brass tube next and keep you posted.

Chuck

Hi Chuck, I print ABS at 242 deg, I have not had any back pressure with 36mm heater tube. I had a PTFE version and printed various companies PLA and ABS with it. Dont know what is going wrong for you. I use a 0.6mm nozzle maybe this makes a difference with back pressure? it can print to 20 microns. I have a new version as above and am trying (soon) 1.75mm filament. Its much nicer as theres half the mass to heat up etc.

that might be it... I am running the .35 mm nozzle. Did you see that ultimaker guys have a new nozzle coming out next week? the design doesn't seem that much different. The issue for me has always been back pressure liquid plastc making it's way back up the tube. Their new design doesn't seem to lengthen the tube at all.

Taylor and I were working on the same idea, using a M7 in the top part, and M6 for the brass tube, threading the bowden with M7 (easy by hand with a hex die). My part from PTFE was printing great at 250C (ABS, probably 235C real temp), but failed immediately at 255C, which seems to be the max temp for PTFE. If you are printing only PLA, this is a great solution, but the higher temp required for ABS pushes the PTFE beyond it's operational margin.

I agree. I would use PEEK in future it was, back then, just too hard to source shipped to AUS. My printer has been fine for 3 months now with the changes. Now I'm no longer making mods for the ultimaker which is nice and I can focus on printing and research now :)

Best

Scott

How about using glass-mica ceramic? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ceramic-rods/=i4spyehttp://www.mcmaster.com/#stand...

More expensive but should out-perform both PEEK and PTFE at very high temps.

-Matt

Anything is worth a try. Only problem is McMaster don't ship beyond the USA :'(

The material is called Mykroy/Mycalex perhaps there's a distributor in AUS/NZ region. I'm thinking of buying some to try. But I'm more interested in building your updated extruder using the MK6 makerbot nut.

going to make mine after my parts get here...

Hmm got it made but cant cut the 6mm thread bowden tube...

How are you going about this? You need to hand cut it with a lathe in 1/16th turns and backing off. I would use an M7 die first and then reduce it with the M6 die. There is a "Variation" note above that informs you of the M7 option.

Wow! it works great!! i will send pics this week...

I really like the look of this, maybe it could get my printer printing again. Do you happen to have that drawing lying around so I can see what it might cost to have someone machine one for me?

After Easter I'll put up a drawing.

Is there a reason that you used a PTFE rod instead of PEEK?

PEEK is to hard to come by and expensive in small quantities.

I've seen it in action and it has solved a lot of the problems the Scott was having.

Highly recommended to try if you have the capabilities and a psuedo-functional Ultimaker. ;)

Sounds interesting...

I'm still using an 0.35 mm Nozzle and ultimaker print quality jump to a higher level. This mod could improve it a little bit more!

Thanks,
GC