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Headphone Stand

by MakerBot Jan 23, 2017
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3h 30min on Prusa i3 Mk3, 100% scale, Maker's Muse 0.3mm fast settings.

Printed it lying on its back using raven66's recommended settings, also scaled it down to 94% which came out perfect for my Bose QC35-II

I had to scale it down to 94% in cura 4 to fit my ender 3 print bed. cura says 7 hours... I guess I'll know in the morning if it worked out or not.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

if you rotate it 45 degrees it will fit ender 3 on 100%

this is special, 111 comments, well now 112. (your welcome) The same number of makes as collections and now thx to me, 18999 likes!! Someone better like this fast.

*You’re. Im sorry

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Most printed well, but the last few cm of the legs had inconsistent finish, due to filament not being cool enough. Slowly printing is recommended for best finish with this.

Printed in 4hr and 8mins

Settings used:

  • 0.8mm nozzle
  • 0.3mm layer height
  • 0.1mm first layer height
  • 2 wall layer
  • 20% grid infill
  • Skirt used

First of all, The design is nice, i like how it looks.. But it doesnt print that well..
Everything above the first 3mm is good, but the overhang at the beginning if the print is to steep and can be fixed with support but lowering the print 2mm into the platform solves this issue better..

I would love to update this print but i dont really have time to

Printed this MakerBot HEADPHONE STAND model on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate! Check out my time lapse video of the print:


Thanks for a great model MakerBot!

What kind of Headphones are shown in the renderings and in the second picture? Those look sick.

What are the dimensions of this in mm I want to know if my mp select mini could print it

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hey i just thought id let you know that someone is selling this on etsy. here's a link to their store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BadAss3dPrints?ref=search_shop_redirect

I'd recommend to print it slightly bigger than original. This came out a little small for my headphones.

To make easier to print, I cut off the bottom 2 mm of this model by simply lowering it in my slicer before slicing. This removed the sharp overhangs in the first layers that my printer couldn't get right.

That's exactly what I did as well. I'm not entirely sure why they claim it "prints beautifully without supports" when there's something like an 85° overhang right off the bed

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It be nice if you guys made this customizable.

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The description calls for no supports, but in the 6th picture it looks like it is printed with supports.

I think thats a raft

Any suggestions on resolution and infill?

This is very big. I decided to print it in 4 smaller parts to ensure that I wouldn't have to resize it. Good design, though.

I printed this at 0% infill by accident and it mostly came out. The front however is mostly dangling but connected spaghetti since it had no surface to build on. However, it seems structurally strong enough to hold most headphones still.

My first pass at printing this:
.2mm height
3 perimeters
eSun PLA+

This didn't work out so well, basically the commentary that people have had here; too steep an angle on first few layers, causes spaghetti in the air by layer 3. Curling, basically stopped after about a centimeter as it was an ugly outer surface.

Second attempt
.15mm layer height
4 perimeters
got rid of "bottom" 1mm so the steep overhangs were no longer a factor.

This one seems to be printing fine. I'm running at a fairly slow 50mm/s on a Type A Series 1 Pro. Could probably go faster as I don't think the speed is the primary factor, but those overhangs were.

If it were my model, I'd change those nice smooth steep angles to being simple chamfers instead. Much easier to print, not requiring such gyrations.

The original model was probably designed for 0.1mm layer height, and at least a couple of perimeters, otherwise you don't have enough layers to smooth out the curve with enough material sitting atop previous layer.

This model is god damn impossible to print without it looking absolutely terrible, because of these ridiculous overhangs right from the second layer

Yeah, it really is not supportless for all printers. Maybe for a $2000 makerbot that is calibrated out of the box but certainly not for the majority of 3d printers.

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It printed fine on my Ender 3.

Can you please share your settings in Cura for Ender 3 ?

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Do not recall exactly which settings I used, but was not drastically different from recommended. Printed laying down using Cura.

Layer height: 0.2mm
Infill density: 20-40%
Infill pattern: grid
Printing temp: 200-205 °C
Build plate temp: 60 °C
Enable retraction
No support

how have u printed it?
have u rotate the object or scale (because Cura tells me it's too big)? and lying on the ground or standing?

You sir, are a champ !

I printed using your recommendations (infill 30%) and it came out perfect, thanks a lot for that

how have u printed it?
have u rotate the object or scale (because Cura tells me it's too big)? and lying on the ground or standing?

I scaled it down ~5%, but found out you actually do not have to. Just rotate it 45˚ (laying down) and it fits at 100% scale.

Are you printing it laying down?

Prints fine, did it last night.

What is the biggest dimension of the stand?

I would consider the type of filament you use to print it as far as supports are concerned. I printed it inland PLA and the degree of overhang at the base didn't work too well. Could have used some supports. All things considered no one is gunna see that part unless they pick it up and inspect it. But I should have added some supports under the base.

Can I sell it on amazon?

Probably not. Read the attributions if commercial use is allowed.

How long did it last to print?

Unnecessary curvature at the base makes for an ugly few first layers. Just silly. Amateur hour.

Gee say that again, did ultimaker design this?, first 3 layers so far are terrible!! unless your running like 3-4mm shell/wall. the first few layers are really gross. just did layer view on slicer... myyy god. :O

Printed only to find out its way too small for my headphones (Sol Republic) :(

had the same issue (HyperX)

same here (Byerdynamic DT990 Edition) had to resize the stand down cause I have a 20x20x20 printer :(

How much did this cost to print?

I guess about 50ct to 1Euro

why don't you just make it where two parts slid together so its easier to print

You are right i have an afinibot a5 and its not that big so i can print this model ;(

You guys need to check out all the remixes. A lot of people have chopped the stand up so it's printable on smaller beds. You then build the stand. I have a 180x180x180mm build volume and was able to make one that looks good.

wow,i think this is the most practical thing I've ever seen!Suitable for music enthusiasts!

Just printed this MakerBot HEADPHONE STAND model on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate! Check out my time lapse video of the print:


Thanks for a great model MakerBot!

Cool time lapse. I was wondering what filament type you were using. I am using PLA+ and gettin curling on the edges causing the print to fail. I also have the mono ultimate. What bed temp?

Thanks @fredlef! I am using Monoprice Filament. That is awesome that you also have the Monoprice Maker Ultimate! I typically print at Bed Temp 70 deg C. I recommend using a glass bed (Borosilicate Glass http://amzn.to/2okGGyb) and a Thermal Silicone Pad (http://amzn.to/2mEVwTN) for even temps on the plate. I typically apply some Elmers Glue stick to the glass to help with adhesion. Thanks again for the feedback and feel free to send me a private message through my website contact page if you have more questions!(https://the3dprintzone.com/)

I am new to 3D printing so be gentle on me. I have a Prusa i3 mk2 and tried to print this. I am using slic3r from Prusa to print this. I drag it into the slic3r and export it to the gcode. I believe the configuration is the default that the slic3r has setup from Prusa. I was able to get it to export but when it begins to print it doesn't make a clean brim, or first layer it beads up, for lakc of not knowing the technical name for what it is doing. I have printed a few other things both from Prusa's SD card and from thingiverse with little or minimal issue.

My calibration is spot on. Where do I start to find out how to print this correctly? The little filament release at the beginning of the print releases filament just fine, and as being I have print running now for 6 hours my nozzle is not clogged. If needed I can attach a dropbox link and image, ill have to reprint it later after another print finishes up. Thanks in advance.

Do you have blue painters tape or something similar down on the print bed?

I actually did have a little clog in my extruder, it was a little piece, I had to take ti all apart and I was able to find a little piece of hard filament from the other filament I had in there. Another thing was I read a few forums and though that Alcohol alone cleaning the bed was enough, but I have never natively gotten the prints to stick. I used a cheap hairspray, RAVE for $1.99 that works like voodoo. I was able to print this without issue after cleaning the clog and using the hairspray.

Hello dschnizzy!!!

Try to find out if your extruder is working fine. Make sure that the length you want to extrude is the length that is really being extruded. There are multiple videos about how to calibrate the extruder in youtube.

If the problem persists, try to make a bigger brim or maybe to calibrate better the Z axis.

Find me at @victorhr3 at twitter.

I modified it to print nicer vertically on my Cetus3D Extended, but it also might work for people with tall delta printers. Overhang comes out a little bit rough but not bad at all. They are the hit of my office... I can't print them fast enough now!

Link to make: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:313568

Headphone Stand
by msim

Nice, I don't have the extended Cetus so I had to chop it up to 3 pieces. Good Idea with the built in support.

I printed your version first and it worked out great! I taught myself how to friction weld the pieces together too.

Is there a way to friction weld plastic?

Yep! I put a small piece of PLA in the tip of my dremel. Needed to shim it with a smaller piece to grip correctly but it worked great. The only downside is having to swap out the longer piece of filament pretty often, even friction welding a small area. Probably works better with 3mm filament. Will have to look into getting a sample just to keep around for welding.

That's a solid idea I'm going to have to figure out how you did that with my Dremmel.

There are a ton of video tutorials but I only watched this one before I started experimenting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj9TMmUldhc

That's cool. Never even thought of that. Thanks, msim!

I can't even print this without warping on my replicator +. Also, the files are for a Smart Extruder, the printer comes default with the Smart Extruder +. Makerbot please upload the correct files

It has STLs you should be fine..?

The problem is that the flexible build plate that the printer comes with is terrible for adhesion. It's also a school printer so I can't apply tape or hairspray. I don't know how to keep the object on the build plate

Have you tried printing with a raft? That could aid in adhesion if you can get that to stick. It sucks you can't use the other methods! Hope this helps some.

I've tried with rafts and its way worse. By the time the print is half done the object will be at least a 3rd of an inch off the build plate.

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Just finished printing one on an Alunar A8 out of Hatchbox ABS on a 200x200 piece of glass with BPT for adhesion. 100% scale. 15% infill, 4 outlines and first/bottom layers. Came out pretty well and I like the finish on the front from the layers printing flat. Added about an ounce of lead birdshot to the base as it was printing that gives it a nice heft.

It fits my Turtle Beach X12 headphones pretty well but anything larger will have trouble I'd bet. I'll happily print this again, but at probably 110 or 125% scale.

Layer 2 or 3 starts printing in-air which probably causes the issues some people are having. I had to drop the model through the build platform by about 1mm to avoid the problem layer. Simplify3D wouldn't support the problem area, either. The model doesn't look particularly well prepared for 3D printing.

Crazy overhangs on the first few layers, will need some kind of support or raft I guess. Printing on a Prusa i3 MK2.

Same printer and me too. But I am troubleshooting it and I don't think its the printer, I think it is the slicer. Are you using slic3r prusa edition?

Yeah Im using slic3r Prusa edition. Looking at the 3D model its quite steep the first few layers I'm not convinced that it is slic3r.

Just FYI. Making this on a Makerbot Rep 2 or similar-sized printer is of no point. It is way too small to hold any full-sized headphones.

i need a headphone stand for me and i can now make it!!!!

i made this..hummm i have a smaller build table so i would like to see things made to fit smaller printers. smh why did i waste my filament on this..

Probably should have thought it out before just hitting print...But you could split it into multiple parts and epoxy, or weld them together.

Have you tried scaling the model down to fit your printer?

Here's a video from when I printed this headphone stand:

Very elegant design!
Good job.

What am I missing here?

No matter if you slice it laying down or standing up the first few layers have ridiculous overhangs.

Looking at the picture with the actual print lying on the printer bed I can see the support structure. Anyway this should be tagged appropriately requiring supports. It is a beautiful design and easily fixable but still a bit odd.

Not sure, but on the picture, it could be the raft, not the supports. Overhangs get better with cooling duct, multiple walls, low extrusion temperature and reasonable print speed. But you're right, if the piece start with a curve, we should be tempted to use supports.

There is a ceiling sticking out. Not just a curve. Take a look at the first few sliced layers.

Can you only print this on a MakerBot printer? Because it looks too small for headphones when i printed it

I just finished one on my Alunar/Anet A8 and it fits my Turtle Beach X12 headphones decently. The next one I print will probably be 110% scale or a bit bigger.

No, you should be able to print this on any print bed with dimensions capable of it. Which according to Cube_3 is "at least 220x220x150 (LxDxH)" I had to chop it up into pieces in order print on my printer which is only 180x180x180 mm


Any chance you could split this for those of us with a small Makerbot?

Rather than the approach that others have taken with their remix, you could chop the vertical standing parts, and stick a 3mm metal rod in there for support.

I'm not very good with Solidworks, and was hoping you guys would show some love.


Have a look at the remixes. This one in particular. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2151607

Headphone Stand (Split)
by Gertsen

This is probably the best split remix, even though I had to rotate and resize to 96% to fit in a 225 x 150 bed.

Thanks! this fits easy on my i2.5 Samuel XL and wife loves it

Great! I have to buy a Makerbot Z17 to print this, even with my relatively large Printrbot extended X axis!

Maaaan, do you have an stl of that poly-human head ?

What is that non-standard size.. If you don't have a makerbot... oh too bad for you, just buy one.
Is this a makerbot promotional item ? Did makerbot paid you for this ?

I hate this stand.

Don't be a jerk, especially when you're wrong.

"Non-standard" size of what? If you have a 200x200x200 print space, you can build this. I just finished printing one on my Alunar/Anet A8 and there was room on the bed and in the print space to spare.

And you do realize that Thingiverse IS a MakerBot 'service', right? And that you commented on a MakerBot published part? Come on, grow up!

Hahaha! This is a truly hilarious comment! =)

Isn't Thingiverse a MakerBot service?

Stringed up on my well tuned Prusa I3 Mk2 after a few mm of layers.

I noticed when I was slicing in Simplify3D that on layer 2 or 3 it starts printing a contour in-air. I dropped the back of the stand through the build platform by about .75-1mm to get past that particular layer and it printed out for me. That whole area (where it curves up from the table) did not print particularly well though, with more evidence of possibly doing in-air prints.

I tried with supports as well and it doesn't seem to affect the area.

I tried it as well few times on Prusa I3 Mk2 and it turns out into spaghetti

I have a FlashForge Dual clone (Qidi Tech I), with max. dimensions 225x150x150. I split the model in half and will print each half, rotated 120 and 240 degrees around Z, respectively. They fit now.

care to create a remix and upload?

Will do tonight when I get home.

Makerbot headset stand, split in two.
by asemeco

Dimensions: 236mm x 193mm x 148mm

Nice Grade A surface design !

Nice, but needs a rounded top to stop the headphone foam being depressed on a flat surface for too long, but if your head is flat on top it might be just fine, I don't know. Go and get a full Glass of beer, if you can rest it on top of your head and it doesn't fall, then you should be right.

just add a foam to the top and your problem solved

Bravo, MakerBot...Bravo.

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Wow really? You want views on your YouTube channel that much? Curious how many other prints on here you've "Want to make this XXXXXXXXXX look even cooler ?!? Can't go anywhere with out seeing spam.

Now it's becoming spam.

Looks nice, however a curved rest section would be much better to avoid creasing the headphone padding?

Where are the photos of the actual printed part MakerBot?? Renderings hardly do it for me...

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This didn't fit my 200x200mm build plate. I sliced it in half using 123d design and printed in two parts. Total print time was 14 hrs at 40mm print speed. Printed on the Anet A8.

Took about 3 hours with 15% infill on the TEVO black widow.

Doesn't fit on my Prusa i3 build plate. 200mm x 200mm

try this: rotate the stand 45° around the Z-axis. Center it again. This worked for me

I had to rotate it 45 degrees and also scale it to 91% to fit on a 200x200 buildplate

So what is the needed build volume for this?

at least 220x220x150 (LxDxH)

Incorrect, it's 236mm x 193mm x 148mm