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RC Flying Wing

by TomStanton Jan 18, 2017
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I printed the Wing inner right and at about 90% of the build it started to fail, is there a way to recover and print only the remaining part and glue them together? It was printing for 9 hours:( it printed 13.5 CM tall.

Generally, no you can't recover from a print fail.

Check for the cause of the fail

Often, needing more tension on the extruder's spring for the Ender 3 will cause under-extrusion and failed prints.

Think this will work with 3s 1500mah batteries? That's all I have on hand atm.

It should fly... it will lack power. the 3S you have are lighter, so If you can get it to proper balance without adding weight you have a better chance of success.

If the motor can handle the current, you could increase propeller pitch to make up for the lower RPM.

You could go for a higher kV motor also. What you are looking for is watts of power.


If you only decrease volts by 25% you reduced watts by 25%. (assuming you kept the same current) But the reduced volts means you will push lower amps, so in effect you'll decrease power by about 45%

Increasing prop pitch loads the motor, forcing the amps back up, but can make the motor overheat if it is not rated for the higher amps needed to get power back to the desired level.

what parts are meant by Wing Section???

What flight controller did you use?

You don´t really need a FC for a fixed Wing as it should fly pretty stable.

What throws should I use for the control surfaces? What is their neutral deflection?
Thank you,

Hey - I am printing your wing - so far looking awesome. :-D

Looking forward to a FPV version :-)

Question :
Just how much support did you use for the body ?
It seems to me that it calls for an avfull lot of support.

But do you think that it is only for the very bottum of the fuse ??
(just above the motor faundation)

Hallo miteinander, kann mir jemand schreiben wie bei diesem Modell der Rumpfteil (fuselage back) gedruckt wird?
Ich würde diese Modell auch gerne probieren.
Hi, can anyone write to me as with this model the fuselage back is printed?
I would also like to try this model.

Hallo Georgio
Habe leider das selbe Problem, hast Du ev. eine Lösung ?

Dear all,
I have also this probleme, have somewhere a solution ?

Viele Grüsse / best regards

Hallo Willi,
leider kann ich Dir da nicht weiterhelfen, ich hab 3 Mal versucht den Runmpfteil zu drucken, ist leider jedes Mal fehlgeschlagen.
Habe im Augenblick auch keine Lösung dafür.

Hi ihr zwei. druckt auf jeden Fall einen brim mit 8lines und stützen unter jeden Überhang. innen drin habe auch noch Stützen platziert. dann ging es. LG stocki

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Quick Question... on the video... the 5 Volts regulator module is connected to the same original 5 Volts supply on the ESC rigth? and we only use the connector with the regulator rigth? Tx

WOW i really LOVE this design.
Im still printing the parts.

But i was lucky ordering all required parts at Banggood Sale and got up to 11% Discount on almost every part:


Thank you soo much! :)

Comments deleted.

I had to print it at 75% to fit my ctc bizer. Everything printed well at 75%, my question is the connection to the receiver, do you connect the servos to the aileron on the receiver or the elevator?

One on each channel and you need to set your radio to do an elevon mix

How to connect the Power Step Down module?

Any recomandation for slicer used ? I tried slic3r, cura and simplify 3D. So one come acceptable. They all break the perimeter to build inside spars. And cura don't want to make a single shell (or I don't know how).

Very nice work... and inspiring videos on Youtube...

Hi, I've seen your newest iteration of the wing has rips with a single strength.
In one of your earlier iterations you made a solid wing and remove the rips in the CAD program.
But this caused rips with 'double' strength.

How did you solve this problem? Could you give me a hint, please?
Is this design complete done in CAD program ( and in which ?)
or ist additional work in a Meshprogram like Meshmixer needed?

I'am actualy working on a private project which needs a leightweight 'box' with inner
and outer shell and rips to make the 'box' stronger. The design should be
very close to the design principle of your 3d printed wing.
My problem is to combine the shells with the rips.

Thanks, any hint would be appreciated :-)

Would it be possible to make squares instead of holes in the infill structure of the wings?

I know that it is not as stable, but it is easier to print.

Square holes in the ribs will mean weak ribs. They would break at the corners.

You want the round holes.

I really wanted to make this as you have proved it will fly but it's rather confusing (to me) that your video clearly shows the ends of each panel are open but the STL files have them closed. I've tried printing with no roof and no floor but can't get decent bed adhesion. I've tried with just a floor but that prevent the panels from slotting into each other. Helper discs don't help as removing the floor and roof results in the helper discs being printer with just their outer walls.
I'm missing something but what is it?

Hi IPJnet,

I use Pritt Glue Stick dissolved in water and put 3 layers of this glue water mix onto the headbed.
You must also make sure that the skirt distance is 0mm away form the objet, for the object so you create a foot for the print to stick to.

This will help you with getting the parts to stick.

i have 12 hours i doubt it will bein that time but i can make it smaller

I've found some propellers similar to the propellers with the broken link. http://www.banggood.com/2-Pairs-DALPROP-6045-Bullnose-Propeller-CW-CCW-for-FPV-Racer-p-1102086.html?rmmds=search
my question is where should we get the push rods? All I'm seeing is the clevis.

just use some stiff wire and put a z bend on the ends

Hello , had anyone have their plane softening in the sun because PLA having a glass transition temperature way too low?I am worried about having a plane turn into butter after waiting in full sun.

You'll have to keep the plane in shade between flights.

Definitely do not store in a car in the Texas summer. I left a 3D print in my car last week and it deformed with outside temp just 70F (21C). In summer it would have become a puddle.

Some people are shifting to using PETG to 3D print planes and still need to watch out for heat softening the plastic.

Hi I am printing the wing on my new xyz divinci pro seems to be comming out ok I think it might be real heavy compared to my foam wings I put on a little bigger motor. I'll let you know in a few days how it turns out

Any luck EagleDan man?

Keeping the frame design, removing the roughly 0.4+/_ width perimeter shell of the wing design, and replacing it with 0.1+/- thickness flat layer rectangular sheets I believe will give you some dramatic weight loss. This will keep with your theme of a fully printed wing, you could even go so far as to heat seal them to the frame if you are careful enough, rivet with a soldering iron, make slots for the panels, or the old friction weld with the filament in the rotary tool trick.

I use Cura and Ultimaker 2+, the 3d printer for the WingInnerLeft.stl and WingInnerRight.stl does not seem to come out right. In fact, all the wings do not seem to come out with connecting ridges.
The surface connecting to the Fuselage is flat. It has no connecting ridge. So, I cannot physically glue the connection.
If I examine the WingInnerLeft bottom, it is flat.

Can you load the opened source Cura to see what is the issue? I am using version 2.1.3.

This is the setting I have:
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Material: PLA
Setup: Advanced
Profile: High Quality
Layer Height: 0.2 mm
Shell Wall Thickness: 0.5 mm
Shell Top/Bottom Thickness: 0 mm
Infill Density: 0 %
Infill Overlap: 0 %
Material Enable Retract: checked
Print Speed: 25 mm/s
Travel Speed: 120 mm/s
Enabled Cooling Fans: unchecked
Platform Adhesion Type: Brim
Brim Width: 8 mm

A wonderful bird!
Wondering that you do not burn your motor with 2300kv @4s and 6045 prop, it looks like the prop is anything but not efficient for a fixed wing.
Did you try a better prop like an APC for example, whenever I think that they load of an APC 6x4 E prop will be too much for that little motor @ 4s.


Here is some feedback.

  1. I love it!
  2. Second any chance you could keep the parts less than 150mm in height? This would make it compatible with many more printers.
  3. The holes in the ribs are the most difficult parts to print. Would it be much heavier if the ribs were just solid?
  4. (from my first comment) would be really great if you could provide option for second extended nose cone and associated canopy for 1300mAh battery.

I am not sure which CAD software you worked, but I could give a bash at making these changes in Fusion360 if you want to send me the .step files.

This is brilliant. Any chance you could extend the nose a little to allow it to balance with a 1300 4S?


Nice project, but did u designed it or did you find plans somewhere? I would like to make an Alula kind plane... (no motors , its a sail plane)

Today I printed the experimental inner part of the wing infill with 2% (rectilinear / rectilinear). Original part weighs 28 grams, 44 grams new. That's quite a bit of weight. The problem is that print both pillars and the supports along the profile, which results in increased weight. Anyone have a better idea? Otherwise, the strength is fantastic against the initial proposal. Still, it was enough so little to add to the existing rib.

No infill no strength just a little ribs.

Comments deleted.

Going to give this an try, printing it out as we speak!

Any chance you would like to share the fusion 360 files of this wonderful plane? I'm asking this because I would love to customize the fuselage a bit so I can put an Camara in pointingstraight downward and make some room to put an pixhawk autopilot in and use it as an hobby survey wing!

Would this print on a Wanhao Duplicator i3?

You should totally do a version with the flaps attached to the wings with hinges instead of tape :) Good work with the model. Will report back when its fully built.

Have you had time to modify it to fit a fpv setup id be really willing to print it if there was a option for that. thanks

FPV.. Change the nose. Flip it to print from front at bottom, and then push the front below the build plate to give a flat front. Add a flat layer on the build plate. Now you can mount your camera on the nose.

Easy enough to do all of this by manipulating the nose and a cube in Blender. I'll make the STL in a day or two.

The push rods link is broken, it goes to the wrong item - Could you please fix it or let us know what length is needed?
I'd like to order the parts before I start printing so I don't have to wait for it all to be printed to measure for parts.


Comments deleted.

You can print some better control links you don't have to buy from Hobby King.

Please redesign the inside of the wings, the support structure has to many holes and is to difficult to print, even at very slow speeds (Simplify 3D + Flux 3D)
I don't think the holes will give an enormous weight gain, making the inside structure solid again will help the print-ability a lot.
Only keep the hole for the servo cable.

Also, the support structures in the wings go almost all the way to the edge, which means the next piece doesn't slide in properly - I had to cut away parts of the wing braces to get it to even go together. Is this a huge oversight, or am I doing something wrong here?

I would agree, in his YT Video about creating the Wing he first did a version without the holes, then with them and the weigth difference was just arround 2%.
Instead I would create one hole trough all the Wingsegments, with a constant diameter of ca. 10mm, were you can put a rod in while glueing the parts together. With this trick you could get the Wings very straigth, and it makes glueing much easier.
After everthing is solid, you pull the rod back out.
This hole can be used for the wires.

Fixed it with a 3% rectilinear fill, now it has a much better feel to it.

Would it be possible to give us the weight of each part or the wight without any components in it?

Very cool man. I plan on printing this as my very first rc plane. I have a question though. My printer supports 198x198x198mm will that be adequate for my build?

Hello i have print all parts and i will mount all the parts.
Can you show me how I must mount the inner and outer elevon? Must i couple this two parts?
Thanks for answear.
greetings from Switzerland tisy

Is there any way I can print this if my printer can only go 180mm up?

Cut the Fuselage_front STL in two parts with Meshmixer.

At the moment I'm printing these parts, if they work out fine, I will maybe upload them as a remix.

I would recommend more ribs for better compliance with the airfoil. Now a little deformed profile between ribs. Otherwise, good job, also prints.

Very nice! I might build one, but only if I manage to make it FPV ready. ;)

A bigger fuselage would give us more flexibility with the battery placement and a bit of room left for some fpv equipment. I am looking forward to printing it with those modifications.

If this can have a camera with it, I'll make it!

Great design!
Can you confirm that the height of the fuselage is less than 180mm?
In my slicer the height is more like 198mm and therefore not printable in my printer.

The last layer is at 198.6 mm. I had like 7 mm to spare on my printer, thankfully.

Great design just got printer working after Christmas build I will have a go with this one. The glue joint looks to be the weak link from the first vid I watched. will let you know how it goes. liked your perseverance with the first design look like you have cracked nice one Tom keep it up

You could add something to grab at the takeoff at the bottom. good design! I share the opinion of joining wings without glue for easy repair

Hi it`s look great. I try to print one.
one more question. Run the Motor cw or ccw?

Use a CW spinning, CCW-tightening thread, to help keep the propeller from making the nut loose. That's if you intend to use a standard CCW rotating, 'tractor' prop.

Very nice job, looks like it flies pretty well.
Have you thought about any way to attach the wings without glue? It would be nice to be able to replace damaged parts without having to reprint the entire wing.

Nice one Tom, any plans for a FPV Fuselage?

What Prop did you use. Don't see it in the parts list.

Comments deleted.

Sorry it is a DAL 6045 propeller, I have now added it to the description

Looks like a DAL 6040

Could you also upload a version of the fuse back with supports? my Slic3r refuses to put supports under the overhang

The cura does not properly make the supports. Mark them and then do not lift them. In Repetier it does them well. And infill at 15% is insuficient for this part.

Me encanta!! Gracias por compartir!