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Ready RepRap

by dhartkop Apr 27, 2017
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Can I make this thing longer and bigger only by changing the rod lengths? Please advise

Yes, you can!
You can increase the spacing between each of the three vertical towers as well. Essentially, once you have built a machine of new size, you will need to go into the Marlin reprap firmware in Arduino and change the configuration.h settings to reflect the new measurements. I believe there is a page at the end of the book that is a guide for hackers. It highlights which parts of the code are of interest for doing things like that. Enjoy!

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I hate to say it but the knockout spacing has changed on the handy boxed specified. There is a 4mm difference. The carriage, and pulley can be modified with sand paper and a dremel. Print the carriage with a 10% reduction then use a dremel to trim the magnet mount inner ring to allow the 1/2 magnet to fit. The carriage will be very tight on the conduit. The easiest and fastest way to fix this is to take a piece of the conduit and wrap a layer of 220 grit sandpaper on it. Use that to sand down the carriage until it slides easily on the conduit without the sand paper. I took mine all the way down to a perfect fit and still had some ridges on the inside for finer tuning later if need be or you can get it close and use the prescribed method. The pulley mount can be modded by using the same piece of conduit and sand paper and widening the curves to where the pipe clam comes through. Of course all of this could be done in cad but I am a lot faster with a dremel and sand paper than cad. The motor mounts may be easier in cad because the holes will need to be moved and the mount edge will need to be moved toward the pipe making the edge very thin against the pipe. The alignment of the two pulleys move out a bit because the motor will be sitting a little further out now.

Let me also state this is a very good design and the cad work on the printer parts is very well done. My comments here do not question the design in any way. The issue here is an apparent change by raco on their 11.5cu box.
The downloadable assembly book mentioned is a previous book is well worth the price of $12 if you are going to build this and do not have a lot of experience in building this type of device.

Greggt, thanks for mentioning this. Yes there has been a new box spacing that came into use since the book was written. I haven't had a chance to go back to the original 3D models in Tinkercad to make adjustments, but that's where to start. For anyone wishing to 'tune up' the 3d models for different spacing, including metric sizes, check out the objects on tinkercad.com. You can duplicate the object to your account and modify it: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8LGnUjhzrhr-170116allparts/editv2

Found the template issue. The pdf page prints perfect with no margins. The jpg here seems to have the same issue regardless of printing methods.I have a couple ideas on the carriages that my be easier than editing the stl and reprinting them. I will post what I come up with.

I printed the carriages and they are coming out too wide for the knockouts on the box and are too loose for the 1/2" conduit. Scaled them 10% and the width was correct but they were then way to tight for conduit. I used ABS so if anything they should have printed a bit snug before scaling and not big. Also printed the template and 5cm scale is dead on but the box width is 2mm too small and the 192mm radius measures about 189mm. Any thoughts?

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Doug Hanson here - I teach Introduction to Engineering and Design at South Medford High School. I am going to have my class build your 3D printer. Perhaps we could connect sometime to discuss the details.


Me and a friend are planning to build two of these printers (one each). However we cannot find the description with photos? Also in October a comment was made regarding missing video of the finished build, this have not been uploaded yet either.

It would be cool to have a 3D printed part instead of that eletrical box, which i suspect maybe is normal in the US but not where i live.


Hi Lakuc,
I am excited that you are building a couple of this printer. I would recommend using electical boxes of the type available to you, probably in metric sizes? All of the 3D printed parts were designed in Tinkercad, tinkercad.com and can be easily copied and revised by you to fit metric rather than inch sizes. The files are here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8LGnUjhzrhr-170502readyreprapprintedparts/editv2
You may need to create an account, but the software is free and entirely online.

I have not been able to resolve the problem with thingiverse not showing the video. Here is a direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1MZGQovzvs,



I hope this helps. The unique spiral extruder was an additional innovation that seemed to help make it all work well. The plans are on thingiverse too as the "Libro Struder"

I hope this helps!

Hi David,

Thanks for the Info. But is it correct that no guide with pictures are available ?


Hi Lakuc. Thanks, I have posted the full text for the book I wrote on the Thingiverse page. I have published a fully illustrated guide to building the machine on my bookstore here: https://www.ideapropulsionsystems.com/books/create-your-own-ready-reprap
I hope that helps.

I am impressed with the detailed instructions. Thank-you.

Do you have some pictures of the assembled printer? I could not find any on github would like some especially of the carriages and arms

I found a kit on ebay that contains the push rods, balls, and magnets. Problem is that it is only 200mm long. I know the plan calls for 300mm. Would this work? I've built 2 Prusa I3 style printers. I know nothing about Delta printers.


You can use push rods of different lengths, but you will need to change the configuration file in the Marlin firmware to reflect this change. There is just a config section that you can edit inside of the Arduino development program for the Diagonals. Alternatively, you could still cut longer threaded rods to be the correct length; 200mm arms may limit your range of motion by quite a bit unless you move the stance of the three motor towers closer together, which means making more adjustments in the firmware to compensate.


I have some stepper motors and an 8" heated bed from an Anet A8 I disassembled. Would I be able to use those for this project?

The parts in this project are designed to fit stepper motors with the NEMA 17 type body. They are the square blocky motors with four holes in each corner, like this: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor

Yes, they are like that. I just know that their current and voltage are a little lower than what is specified in the guide. I wasn't sure if this would affect anything.


I bet they'd work fine! I would just try it with the motors I had, and if you need to get stronger ones, you can always order some. You can increase the strength quite a bit by just turning up the current on the stepper drivers using a tiny screwdriver... at the expense of having the motors get hotter.

42 Deck Screws 1 1/2 inch deck screws Nuts & Bolts needs to be

42 Deck Screws 2 1/2 inch deck screws Nuts & Bolts

Thanks! You are correct. 2 1/2 inches to go all the way through those boxes. -David
Making corrections to lists.

The hardware scheme is very easy to scale up or down for different versions of this printer if you want to
experiment on your own!
I have a Geetek prusa i3 that I built, would like to make a larger printer. How do you scale up this version?

1/2 inch EMT conduit to XX inches long. how long is XX?

Working on that! Not sure what happened...