MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Giant Lego Minifig Collection (remixed)

by rcaslis Jan 16, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

just about to finish my first lego character. it all looks awesome. printed the arms as last. but wtf? how do i connect the arms to the torso? with the pins or what? the hands didnt go in smoothly but i guess thats just a fix with the dremel.

Do you know what to scale this to if we want it to be as big as the small characters that come with standard lego sets?

These are 4x the size of regular LEGO minifigs

Hello, absolutely love this collection and I've taken the time to print every single part... problem I'm having is it seems so hard to get the parts together.... I can hardly push the pins through the holes in the body for the arms, I can hardly get the Pins into the arms once I get them through the body, I can't get any of the Hips over the leg tops nor can I get the legs into the body's.. Also even the heads are extremely hard to press onto the body although with some force I'm at least able to get them on.. Also, the hands won't fit into the holes in the arms either.... Did I do something wrong or miss something in your instructions ? I didn't change any of the print settings for size, I used PLA for everything on a Ender3 printer.. I think the only thing I did differently was use more infill.. could that be the problem?


These are great, printed deadpool and working on batman for my son now. What did you do for batman's cape? I see a word document for "batman's cape" but it is locked.


Disregard, i see further down somebody already asked. What material did you use for yours?

I just used some foam material I found at the local craft store. Using felt would also work well.

Comments deleted.

Hi, thanks for the great collection. I'm creating the spaceman and i can not find the rocket for his chest. Please help me.

Look in shirts/space_man/ship.stl

nice work!!!
i´m printing the baseball one right now
do you think you could make a glove and a ball for it?
thanks for your great work

Thanks for the compliments. I probably won't have time to make a glove & ball, but you could probably just print one hand in brown to simulate a glove.

Print out a simple white sphere & glue it to the top of the brown hand and it would be a good approximation.

I have people that ask me to make them all the figures can I make them and sell them.

I'd be ok with someone selling them, but you should check with 'Skimbal' who created the original these are just slight modifications of.

In addition, I'd think LEGO might have lawyers that wouldn't like someone selling recreations but perhaps they don't actually care.

Can you include the STL for the boots and shorts?

Its the legs stl just do a color change about halfway.

Yup, that's it. Nothing fancy or complicated.

Which face did you use for superman. i cant seem to find it.

I used young_adventurer_simplified. It's in the 'head' subdirectory.

Nice work!

Tip: Should make the cape from badman and superman also 3d printable. Flat like the cut-out picture.
Then a hairdryed can be used to heat it up and make in foldable.

Several people have already made 3D printable capes, such as https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:293712, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:363106, or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:394064

In my opinion, the cape should be a flexible material like with the actual LEGO minifigs but maybe TPU would work...

Cape for Giant Lego Darth Vader
Giant Lego Superhero / Darth Vadar Cape
by ghfame
Giant Lego Darth Vader Printed Cape!!

Thanks! Yes you are right, original lego is also soft cloth.
Mayby some EVA foam.

Comments deleted.

I printed one Iron Man in 100% scale, now im printing 190% (!) big, its really nice. Where i can find cannon on shoulder? Some IronMan models has it, but i cant find it.
Thanks !

My iron man doesn't have anything on the shoulder, but my war machine figure does. Look in the shirts/war_machine directory.

That is an amazing job, thanks for sharing

For the 'adventurer_eyes_and_mouth.stl', any recommendations on how to get the smallest "mouth" (chin I guess) to print? The larger line can print fine, but the smaller chin one always seems to come unstuck for me since it has such a ridiculously small area of adherence. I've tried slowing down from 60 to 40 print speed and still doesn't seem to work...do I just need to slow it down even further to attempt it? Or should I just say screw it and use the head without the chin part, even if the model doesn't use it.

It's really going to be up to the specific slicer settings. I use Simplify3D and options like 'perimeters only' and reducing the 'extrusion width' parameters help.

Thank you very much for sharing, I am impressed by the collection you have and I have started to print mine as well. You can help me, and tell me which is the piece that joins the arms with the body, I have not been able to find it

Look in the shirts/pin subdirectory.

hello, can you please post photo of IronMan with Thrusters? I printed whole IronMan and 1x thrusters file, but i dont understand how it works..
Btw great design!

The thrusters are just simply 1x1 round lego pieces that attach under each leg and under each hand by a pressure fit.

Look at the main picture (with all the figures). Iron man is on the right most side. The translucent blue pieces are the thrusters.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

whats the best orientation for the hips ?

Place them down on their back. Look for the flat piece extending from the round ring - that part goes down. You'll need to use supports for the pegs for the legs.

This is where something like Simplify3D really helps.

I tried to connect the arms with the pin but the i think is 2-3mm too long so the arms are not so near by the body. It means i have a little space between. How can i fix this?

It worked for me. About all I can recommend is that you printer tolerances might be off. Perhaps try printing everything scaled up 50% and see if that works? As the size increases, the accuracy should become a little less important.

You can also look at the original files which I remixed and see if they print any easier for you.

Unable to connect the arms with the body (chest), Do I missing anynthig

The arms attach using pin.stl (found in the shirts/pin subdirectory). It can be difficult to get them in, but they work. I usually used my finger behind the pin as leverage when forcing the arm onto the pin.

It's the same technique as the original file I remixed, here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170076

There's more advice in that thing's comments as well.

Blank Minifig, Jumbo Snap-Together Version
by Skimbal

I tried to connect the arms with the pin but the i think is 2-3mm too long so the arms are not so near by the body. It means i have a little space between. How can i fix this?

Hi I can't find the Hulk eyes?

Those are the same as the majority of the figures - adventurer_eyes_and_mouth.stl

You won't need the mouth from that set since the hulk has a custom mouth. The hulk works best if everything is scaled 1.5x

What did everyone use for the capes? A piece of felt or something?

I used a sheet of thin colored foam. Felt would also work nicely.

If you have a big enough bed, someone posted a completely 3D printed cape that could be used...

What color is the filament for Superman and Batman's faces?

I used flesh color 1.75mm PLA Filament by Prototype Supply. I got mine from https://www.toybuilderlabs.com but they seem to be sold out right now.

I liked the color itself but found the filament brittle before printing. After printing it seemed fine.

I was trying to perform Captain America in large but I am unable to find to connect the hands with the body.
I think missing the forearms.
If someone can help me, it would be interesting.
Thank you

The arms are there... look in the 'shirts' folder for the file called 'arms.stl'.

i hope that helps.

How did you print the Green Lantern logo in 3 colors?

It's a simple filament swap at certain layers. The process is a little different depending on what software you use but in the end it's just a matter of inserting the M600 gcode at the beginning of the right layer.

I printed deadpool and the parts fit almost perfectly.
You did a great job! I appreciate your work.

Comments deleted.

This figures are AWESOME!!!

Thanks! Credit where credit is due though... most of these are other people's work with tweaks by me to make them fit.

That said, aquaman is my work (but still based on Skimbal's designs) and a lot (but not all) of the accessories are mine as well.

This collection is really cool, thank you

I am al little lost on whitch files i need to use to make the legs of superman and batman, as it should be two files?


Me too, reading the comments looks like a change of filament is needed.

Yes, that's exactly it - a filament change. You can do that by pausing the print manually, inserting M600 commands in the raw gcode before printing, or with some additional program like Prusa's colorprint tool.

Where can i find the Batman cape?

Where can I find the batman cape as STL-File?

I haven't seen an STL batman cape around yet, though I've seen several superman capes if you search for them.

Just search for 'lego cape'.

I forgot to include it in the ZIP file. It's a seperate file posted with this thing. It's a word document.

What file is used for Deadpool eyes? Cannot seem to find it

They are in the 'face' directory, in the 'Deadpool' directory, in the file 'deadpool_eye_95.stl'.

I hope that helps.

Thank you for posting these. I'm printing Aquaman but the trident in accessories folder is not scaled up. Can you share what size will work so I don't have to trial and error. Thanks

My mistake, sorry about that.

I believe it's 400%. Remember to print it twice and glue the two halves together.

Comments deleted.

Hello all, I've designed a ninja turtle version for lego duplo. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2658954

Lego ninja turtle for lego duplo

Love the designs, has anyone seen any mutant ninja turtle versions?

Hi chickey, I've just posted a ninja turtle version. I've designed it to be compatible with Lego Duplo. Enjoy !

Lego ninja turtle for lego duplo

You my Friend are an absolute legend! Thank you very much for this.

love you'r designs every parent's dream, thanks Mate, keep up the great work ;)

I'm sorry you are seeing that. It works fine for me in Simplify3D. I never tried any other slicer.

You can always try running it through the Microsoft 3D repair utility first: https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/

I'll give it a shot.

It doesn't have any issues if I don't scale it up. 0.2 height. Yours doesn't lose that line if you scale it?

No issues with scaling for me. I've tried both Simplify3D v3 and v4.

Comments deleted.

Do you use the Superman cape for Darth Vader?

yes, I believe I did.

Dude, thanks. My kid is going to love this. I'll be printing this on my Ultimaker 3. I sent a tip your way.

Thank you so much. I hope your child loves them and appreciates all the time you are spending printing them.

Wow this can't be 0.2mm resolution..

I assure you, it is. If it's unclear though, keep in mind that each figure is 4x the size of a normal minifig.

I printed these on my old RoboR1 with a few mods. I believe any decently calibrated printer should be able to do the same. That said, I did use Simplify3D which gave me a great deal of control, especially when supports were required.

I think the Astronaut is missing a tile of the planet (shirts/space_man). There's only the upper half and the lower one went missing.

For the ones who have the same issue:
Load it into CraftWare and export as a .stl file. Looks like Cura has some issues with STL's in ASCII Format. CraftWare exports them into binary and all is well. Someone told me it also should work with Meshmixer, but I haven't tested that.

As I only tried some of the Minifigs I can say Cura has problems with the spaceship and the planet for the Astronaut at least. Maybe there are some more files.

Was wondering what was wrong. CraftWare picked it up perfect. Thanks.

Looks like it's all there to me. The file 'planet.stl' contains both halves of the planet in a single file.

Just have a look: http://lunaflausnswelt.moseisley.de/onlyonepiece/
This is what it looks like after loading it into Cura 2.6.2.

Must be a problem with Cura. It works fine in Simplify3D.

Try looking at it in MeshMixer.

I've tried CraftWare now and there both show up. Looks indeed like an issue with Cura. Sorry.

No apologies necessary. I'm glad it's working out.

mit welchem Teil befestige ich die Arme am Oberkörper ?

I don't speak German, but according to Google translate you said: With which part I attach the arms to the upper body

Use the "pin.stl" located in shirts/pin subdirectory.

What are people using for supports? Do you think they are needed on most of these files? I ask, because looking at the legs, alone, putting supports on adds about 1/4 to 1/3 more time.

Most of the files don't need supports. The major exception is the hips and the heads.

This is where Simplify3D and their great control of support generation really pays off...

Thank you for compiling all of these! I can't wait to get started!

Any chance for a Jar Jar Binks head? :)

Why would anyone do that!?

In reality, I'm a little burned out on lego for now and have moved on to another project. However, user Tech77 (see the remixes) has made some great new giant legos. You might try messaging him.

Why not? :)

Thanks for the idea. :)
BTW You have done great work with this Figs.

What colour are you using for the faces?

I used flesh color 1.75mm PLA Filament by Prototype Supply. I got mine from https://www.toybuilderlabs.com but they seem to be sold out right now.

I liked the color itself but found the filament brittle before printing. After printing it seemed fine.

How long does it take to print one

Really depends on your printer and settings. On my Robo3D R1 with my particular settings, the larger pieces (chest, legs, and hips) typically took around 2-2.5 hours each. Other parts (like hair or hat or accessories) varied a lot.

Great work! Is there a joker?

I think another person did a Joker. I didn't print one so I can't comment on it.

This is a really really GREAT JOB!!

I have a doubt, I want to print HULK but I don´t know what pieces I need. For legs or hips

Thanks for your help!

The hulk uses the 'standard' hips and legs, just printed at 125%. For the legs, I swapped filament toward the top to give the effect of wearing shorts.

Use 'hips.stl' and 'normal_legs.stl'.

Ok thanks, I printed short leg because i did not found trosers. Maybe an instrucctions woul be good for all.


What slicing software are you using? Your prints come out so clean. I just bought a Lulzbot Taz 6 which is supposed to be amazing and I'm using Simplify 3D for slicing but my prints are coming out like garbage. Any suggestions?

I also use Simplify3D (but on my Robo R1). I've since moved on to a Prusa i3 MK2 and get even higher quality.

About the only hints I can give is to become very familiar with Simplify3D. There are a ton of great features, and some great youtube videos. I think MakersMuse has some good Simplify3D focused ones.

Other than that, quality of filament is important. I used http://www.protoparadigm.com/ for most of the filament here (but not all). If they have the colors you need, I found https://atomicfilament.com/ to be outstanding.

Thanks for the response. Lulzbot is 3mm filament, so I'm a bit limited, but the Lulz guys said Verbatim pla is really good too. Also, what are the settings you use in Simplify 3D for your extruder? I have a feeling this could be part of my issue.

The best filament I've found, by far, is atomic filament. If they have a color you need/want, by all means get it. They carry 3mm for most of their colors.

As for Simplify3D, the settings are wildly specific to a printer. Even profiles I've gotten for the same printer from others had to be tweaked. In addition, for best performance settings should be tweaked per model (like amount of infill or perimeters) and filament (even down to different profiles for different colors from the same supplier). I doubt my profiles (now optimized for my new Prusa i3 MK2) would help you. :-(

Great work I noticed they are slightly smaller scale than the Lego big minifig alarm clocks so I might scale them up slightly. You have done a great job and plan on printing 3-4 will post results when I have.simply awsome

really nice job dude ! My deadpool is awesome, but im printing Hulk and i dont find his eyes, and im totaly lost for his feets ><

Hulk's eyes are just the regular 'adventurer_eyes_and_mouth.stl' but don't use the mouth. :-)

As for feet, it's just the standard normal_legs.stl but I did a filament color swap towards the top of the legs.

Hope that helps.

Anyone have issues with the hips not fitting?

They worked for me. :-)

How well they are going to fit is very dependent on how well your printer is calibrated. I just moved up from a Robo R1 to a Prusa i3 MK2 and I find if I print the same thing on both printers the i3 is much more precise. That means things like hips are actually a little more loose. If your printer is a little less precise, things will fit much tighter or not fit at all.

For many of the designs, I've included files for 123D Design. That should allow you to tweak the files for what works for you.

Also Awesome work.

Did you use dual extrusion to print these out?

Nope. Everything was either printed as separate parts and glued or done with a filament swap mid-way through the print.

Awesome collection!
I'm starting mine and have completed Superman, Darth Vader, The STIG and a Santa so far - going to pick and choose from your excellent collection!

great collection .. just printig some minifis

Giant Lego Accessories
by dmyers7

I found that with some of my color filaments, they extruded 'thinner' than others, causing the pins to be loose and causing the arms to fall down under gravity. Rather than adjust my extrusion settings for 20+ different colors of filament from various vendors, I created a slighter thicker arm pin for a few cases. In other words, use the regular pin and switch to the thick pin if the arms are loose.

As for the gcode files, I realize now that they are probably useless to most people. They were my color-change files though they are pretty specific to my Robo R1. I uses them mostly for different color boots.

So you suggest we just color change manually with the normal legs stl? For say Superman or Batman?

You could do the change manually (if your printer has an LCD and a change filament option) or by editing the gcode files produced by your slicer. If I remember correctly I changed color around layer 60, but it's matter of taste.

Editing the gcode would give more consistent results.

Woa! Super cool!! What kind of printer did you print these on?? GREAT quality !

I printed these on my Robo3D R1... with some upgrades (PEI sheet being the most important).

It's a decent mid-level machine. I've moved on now to an original Prusa i3 MK2 but still have the Robo.

Did you print the capes too? I'm looking in the files but don't see it.

Sorry about that... I've uploaded the files. They are actually templates to use for cutting out paper, cardboard, or (in my case) sheet foam in the shape of capes.


How do you connect the arms to the body?

Great work by the way!!

Insert the pins into the chest piece. The idea is that the pointy part goes through the side holes while the back edge of the pin keeps it from going too far. Using a long screwdriver to push it through helped me. The arms just push onto the pin ends.

To quote the original designer, Skimbal:
Press the snap pins out through the Body's arm holes, then press the Arms onto them.
A pair of pliers can be useful for locking the snap pins into place.

Think of me as an idiot, but where are the 'pins' in the download file?

Thanks for your patience!!

Look in the 'shirts' folder for a folder named 'pin' and a file named 'pin.stl'. You'll need two of them - one for each side.

That said, depending on filament, I found some filaments printed thinner, somehow. So you'll also find a 'thick_pin' folder... but 90% of mine were made with the regular pin.stl.

I hope that helps. Don't be afraid to ask more questions.

Thanks! These are awesome, I can't wait to print them.

I just printed out most of the pieces for the Deadpool. I'm pretty sure it's not me, but some of these pieces just don't seem to fit together. The hands don't fit onto the arms and the arm pins don't fit into the body - the shapes are completely different. The body's hole for the arms has a teardrop shape hole but the arm pins have a half circles design. Same thing for the hands/arms. Am I missing something here?

I agree, am completely lost as to how to put the arms and hands on.

Any luck your end?

The arms attach as I replied above.

The hands just push into the teardrop holes at the end of the arms. If your printer isn't well calibrated you might try sanding the piece on the hands that push into the arms first.

I hope that helps.

Another thing to keep in mind is layer height. I printed at 0.2mm layer height. Thicker layers might be more difficult.

These files are based on Skimbal's original work - the basic design hasn't changed.

The teardrop shape and the semi-circle make the pieces print easier and don't affect the functionality. Think of the semi-circle as a complete circle and the teardrop as 'a circle plus some'... if that helps. the pins fit into the teardrop just fine, depending on your printer tolerances.

Look at your first layer... if it's too squished down that can affect the ability of the piece to go together. I did make the pins a bit thicker so that my figure would be able to position their arms and stay that way. The original pins I found to be a bit loose. That said, with some color filament even my slightly thicker pins were loose! Thus, I includes a pin model and a thick_pin model. Both od those are thicker than Skimbal's original model.

I hope that helps some.

I have been working on the vader and had these issues as well. To solve them i just shaved town the edges that were on the printer bed and they fix it. I found the arm pins a pain to push into the body from the inside but with some time they popped in. Hope this helps you.

Very nice thanks for uploading this. I was just looking for a new project to do. I saw that your profile picture is of south park. Ever think of doing them as well? I will post pictures of what I print when I finish. Thanks again for this awesome collection.

Thanks for the kind words.

A south park / lego hybrid could be interesting... but I'm a little burnt out on Lego for now. :-)

I completely understand what you mean. The Zelda level fridge magnets almost killed me.

Very nicely done. They look like a great addition to the growing set of 3d Printable Giant Mini figs!

Thanks. That means something coming from someone as talented as you.

look good , will you publish the file for the mini figures

sorry did not see it - very nice

did you need alot of support for the hair

Yes. Most pieces print without support but some (like the hips or hair) require support. Hair is especially bad.

This is where a program like Simplify3D comes in handy. The ability to pick & choose where supports go make it worth every penny.

have a look in the zipfile :-D

Yup... all the files needed for everything in the picture are in the ZIP file.