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nicolaidiz

Anet A8 modification for filament loader

by nicolaidiz Jan 14, 2017
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Just wanted to say thanks - been using this for a couple years and I've been really happy with it. Really makes my life a lot easier when I get a jam or have curved filament (like on a roll that's getting low) that doesn't want to go in the tube. Thanks!!

Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate that!

Did You ever thought what is this fan and heat sink for? To cool down all extruder block. This mod has competely no sense such as any other disconnecting heat sing from the rest of block. Besides there is no need to look inside if You have extruder assembled correctly.

No thoughts! The part which has to be cooled down is covered by the heat sink. You dont‘t have to cool down 600C.
A lot of users and me are happy to have access if you not then you are a lucky guy.

What is the difference between parts "cover 2" & "cover 3"?

Hi @nicolaidiz, had you even use this mod when printing with ABS?
I'm afraid the cooling for hight temperatures could be insufficient. What is your experience?

Me neither, sorry. May some others checked that already.

You guys know that the heatsink touching the metal is what's actually doing the cooling right? putting plastic in between and making the heatsink too small with little to no airflow defeats the purpose.

Hello, can you tell me, what a Material used is ? PLA ?

Hi well it is a good idea but the fan becomes redundant there is no airflow only at the bottom tip so there is no real point if the majority of the fan is covers up

Comments deleted.

Hello, I really like this idea and have found it very helpful with changing filament! The only issue I had was with the Bracket 3. I found the rings a bit flimsy. I have recreated the fitting on AutoCAD and added an additional ring in the middle. I intended to send the file to you (Nico) directly but I found there was no way to attach any files to the message. Attached are the .dwg file, the .stl file and a screenshot pic of the fitting in Repetier-Host.

Thank‘s I will check your idea and give you soon an answer ;)

Hi, I was just wondering if I need to print both brackets?

does SO not fit my anet a8 !

even cut at the 1/3, the block still conflicts with extruder wheel / motor axe. Conflicts also with above "spring" metal part.

had to also drill holes of hinge first at 2.5mm, then at 3mm for an M3 screw to go through. Then I did cut again a part of block for the whole to close, and accidentally cut a wire from my fan doing this.... So that's where I am now.

Good idea, but does not work for (recent ?) anet A8s...

Hey,
Sorry that you have these problems with the design but I heard that for the first time. Are you sure your Anet is printing accuratly?
I guess there is just one Version of the Anet A8 or am I wrong? If so let me know

Greetings

Hi, sorry for the delay. Yep, I have some tolerances issues that's true, I'm in the process of changing and tightening belts. However, there must be a different revision of the extruder block, see my "made" one : I had to severly cut the part to fit my motor's axe

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:424331

Anet A8 modification for filament loader

you may have mounted the fan hinge upside down.

Great design! works very well. Thank you.

Nicolaidiz,
can you specify where we have to use the screw lenght yoy've provided?
Which screws i have to use to bloch the extruder motor?

2x M3x20 (heat sink)
3x M3x25
4x M3 Nuts
1x M3 self locking nut for the hinge (if available)
1x M3x40 (hinge)
2x M4x15 (20)
1x M3 washer
1x Spring of a ball pen

Thank you SO much! The filament input/output design is such a pain, but this makes it much easier! This is easy to install and worked great for me, so thanks again for the great design! :)

Rather than cutting the heat sink in half, it's possible to drill a hole in the top fin and keep the sink in tact.

I did that, But you don't realy even need the hole

Great addition! There are so many designs for the fan out there, but I think this is the most functional and elegant solution. Still a tiny bit anxious about the heatsink, but we'll see :)

I have one question, when the printer suddenly changes direction on the X axis it sounds as if the fan blades are ticking against the housing. Has anyone else experienced this before? I haven't opened it up just yet (big print on the way) to look for scratch marks, will post if I find anything. Still this is a great improvement, thanks for sharing!

I used just two parts of this model to achieve what I was looking for. I found that the hole on the heat sink provides enough of a window to see the filament feed into the throat of the extruder tube. All I needed was an easy way to move the fan out of the way. By just using the bracket and the cover, I got exactly what I wanted. I used an M4 tap to thread the holes in the fan, M4x16 to hold the fan to the cover and the bracket to the X carriage, and M3x20 to hold the heat sink to the extruder.

Brilliant Idea this was one of the first things i wish i could have changed when i got the pringter and ive only just found it but have to say its perfect

I've been trying to figure out exactly how to assemble it, and stuff don't seem to align. Could you perhaps post an assembly guide?
Thanks in advance :)

Pictures not enough for assembly procedure? Importand is that you assemble the complete hinge and then press the block against the heat sink and tighten your screws on the black bended sheet. Thats it. ;)

i think this make the fan useless , because there is not heat transfer directly between heated parts and the heatsink(actually i saw there is not heatsink) , but the idea of making this part separable is really nice!

Thank's but the function is given. Check it again ;)

i'm with sveyder. To cut down the heatsink makes it waaaay less efficient and so it not a good solution, but the basic idea is good

Hola , fantástico un 10. Muchas gracias

What did you use for this. I noticed a spring but it's not mentioned anywhere.

It's mentioned ;)
A standard spring of a biro.

That's fish talk to me. The heck is a brio.

Sorry mate I am not a english native speaker. A spring of a pen!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ia7s197b2jma8q0/whatiswhat.png?dl=0
In this picture I'm unsure what the highlighted areas are. For the hinge what screw did you use? The one that was in it isn't long enough.

You want me to give you a bill of material? Or you want to know the usage of the highlighted area? I will add the BOM in the description.

I just wanan know what is used in those areas. sorry.

I am anxious to test this. I have had to remove the screws and fan too often. Great Idea. I will Let you know how it works on the Alunar M508. Does the air flow through the bottom or have you had issues with it restricting airflow?

Hey thx!
Let me know if it works for your printer. I hadn't issues with the airflow cause the cooling for the heat sink is sufficient. The alu block is almost cold after a 6 hours print with 230C. There is no critical affect on my prints. Try it ;)

Ok got an idea. M3 threaded rod with some

M3 Threaded Rod
http://tinyurl.com/jgweahb

M3 Threaded round standoff
http://tinyurl.com/zrwks9h

M3 knurled Nut
http://tinyurl.com/ztm7ebz

This would allow you to unscrew 2 knurled nuts and pull the heat sink and fan off while keeping the motor attached to the heat break and not jeopardize the heat sink and allowing for proper tension on the screws to tight the heat sink to the block.

Just a thought!!

Can u post a design of what u mean? it sounds interesting but I can't envision what you mean

Yeah I will see if I can mock it up in fusion today. I actually have parts coming to do this very thing but have come to a conclusion like so many others that it's not needed. I've been printing for months with pla and Petg with no issues. Fan has just been blowing on top of the motor instead

Hey, are you able to design another solution?
I suggest to you to build another one. I am pretty sure there will be a lot of complications during modification. Either the idea works well or it will be seen that it is too complicated to dismount everytime. ;)

Ok got an idea. M3 threaded rod with some

M3 Treaded Rod
http://tinyurl.com/jgweahb

M3 knurled Nut
http://tinyurl.com/ztm7ebz

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547786

Depending on how long of threaded rod you get you can just print a m3 spacer to pick up the slack between the nut and the fan. This would allow you to unscrew 2 knurled nuts and pull the heat sink and fan off while not jeopardize the heat sink and allowing for proper tension on the screws to tight the heat sink to the block.

Just a thought!!

CTC, Flashforge Extruder Fan Spacer
by CBiker

Ok got an idea. M3 threaded rod with some

M3 Treaded Rod
http://tinyurl.com/jgweahb

M3 knurled Nut
http://tinyurl.com/ztm7ebz

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547786

Depending on how long of threaded rod you get you can just print a m3 spacer to pick up the slack between the nut and the fan. This would allow you to unscrew 2 knurled nuts and pull the heat sink and fan off while not jeopardize the heat sink and allowing for proper tension on the screws to tight the heat sink to the block.

Just a thought!!

CTC, Flashforge Extruder Fan Spacer
by CBiker

What if you mounted the heat sink to the fan and drill/tap the top of the heat sink to fit your spring latch
This would keep the heat sink intact and allow for it to pivot with the fan. Outer fan bracket already has the pivot pin so should work just fine.

Lower heat sink screw holes would need to be drilled out to allow for the cap screw heads to pass through. I like this design and constantly curse changing filament. What program were these designed in?

Hey marcbea thanks for your suggestion. I can't imagine what exactly you mean. I'll try to understand your proposal.
I'm not a english native speaker ;).
I did this modi with Catia v5

Can you export a cad file type? Dxf maybe?

Sure but why dxf? 2 dimensional?

Can you explain the screws/hex bolts you used? i assume the black one thats pointed out with the screwdriver is on the inside but i cant figure out how the one on the fan closest the hinge is working and also the one nearest the camera is that the original or longer?

i see your not using the 2 washers like i have on the hex bolts i guess that helps. by the way changing the filament is a proper C word with 4 letters for me! i always have to take the fan and heatsink off so i can see where it is going and then i have problems getting the screws back in the motor! so someone on the anet (not official group) facebook group showed me this

thanks in advance for your time

Hey totalguy,

Yes changing filament s....! With this design the cooler won't do his job properly but for me it's fine. For the moment I will change the design. I have a good idea. Maybe during this week but you can start like this here.
First you lock the motor with a screw M3x25 +- on the left Bottom hole.
For the seperate cooling block just use a screw which won't be too long to avoid contact with the Motor screw. Lock the screw by 2 nuts for example.
The long one in my case is the standard one but thats just because I do not have a M3x50. It is possible with the standard screw but I suggest a longer one.

thanks for your reply, i would be grateful if you can share your new design when it is complete as mentioned before its really a C word to do for me so anything that makes it easier is good!

I think the cooler is meant to actually touch the lower aluminum block where the Teflon tubed screw is fastened. This is to dissipate the heat from the filament heater. In your design the lower aluminium block will not be cooled very efficiently. As a fact I considered thermal paste between cooler and aluminum. A nice design by the way, changing the filament indeed is a pain in the buttock.

Hey thanks Oscar that's correct. Check the update. Now contact to aluminium block is given

Is the heatsink on backwards? If so does it still work fine in this config? Thanks

In my modification it's basic. If you turn the cooling rip it won't close perfectly due to the screw heads where the motor was fixed.