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xyzaxis

Heated Bed Stabilizers for Monoprice Maker Select v2.1 (Wanhao i3)

by xyzaxis Jan 14, 2017
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Are the 2 parts supposed to interlock together above/below the y-carriage plate? Looking at the first picture, I'm thinking not.

Wow! Really works great. As others have said, surprised on how much it has help my print quality. My bed must have been moving around quite a bit. It also keeps the bed level. I haven't had to adjust it for a few weeks since I installed it. Great job!!

I'm honestly surprised how much difference this has made, I didn't think I had any issues with the bed moving but thought i'd give it a try.
Thanks!

Glad it helped. It's hard to get precise when the build plate can wiggle around mid-print!

Where can I find this pictured nuts to replace the butterfly nuts that came in the wanhao duplicator i3?

The pictured nuts came with my v2.1 printer, and unfortunately I'm not sure where to source spare replacement metal thumbwheels.

Most folks with the old butterfly/wingnut version replace them with something like this to get a similar effect:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2692587

Not metal, but works great.

Wanhao duplicator i3 thumb screw
by Brollan

Fantastic! My back left corner was so loose the nut actually fell off at one point. Was ready to order an aluminum Y carriage but found these and thought I would try them. Perfect! PLA is fine because they are not touching the heat bed - they install on the carriage below.

Do these have to be printed in PETG or will PLA work as well?
Thanks

PLA gets very soft while printing ABS (110°C bed), you better go for ABS or, even better, high-temp resistant PLA.

These are in contact with the support plate though, not the heated bed.

PLA or ABS would work fine also.

Does anyone know if this will work on a different y plate? I replaced the bottom plate with a thicker one.

It will have the same benefit, but it doesn’t look as nice. There’s a remix that has a thicker lip on the bottom piece.

Printed these for my Maker Select Plus and the bottom holes are a tad bit off, so the bottom piece does not sit secure. I am thinking I may be able to do a little something in meshmixer to work it out :) Just wanted to give a heads up for anyone else with this printer. Great design tho! Just got my printer and this was the first mod I wanted to print! Awesome work.

Will this help if im getting pretty bad layer shifts (3-4mm layer shifts)? This seems to help smaller layer shifts, but I don't think the issue I'm having will be fixed by this. Just curious what you think

I agree with you - 3-4mm is a pretty big shift. This mod can't hurt, but I'd start looking at X and Y belt tension and frame rigidity and other things.

I really love this going to print some soon. Is there a reason you didn't print as one piece? just curious.

Thanks! I think it would be too challenging of a print to do as one piece - it really needs to be oriented on the X-Y plane, and printing something with a floating 1mm gap is almost impossible. Did you have an idea of how to print it successfully as one piece?

I created a similar one and turned it on it’s side To print

Thank you! I just got myself a Powerspec (Wanhao rebranded) dup i3 and noticed shifting. I haven't tried these out yet, but I'm hopefully! Thank you for sharing them!

They've helped a bit! I still don't know why my printer is doing funky wonky things with the calibration cube, but everything else is coming out perfect. I think it just hates the cube.

Worked amazing for me. Before I had layer shift and after fitting these it all seems fine.

Recommended upgrade!

Thanks for the feedback. Glad it helped!

I printed this for my i3 Plus, but I'm not sure if it has any advantage over using only spring cups. Also, for this design, I'd suggest making the lip of the bottom pieces taller, so that can prevent the top piece from rotating (the top piece will also need to be made smaller). In my print, the bolt hole was a bit too small, and it was hard to use the screw to ream the PLA.

I'm torn beet trying the above changes, versus using spring cups.

I like the idea about making the bottom lip overlap the top lip. I've also noticed the top piece rotates and agree it could be improved.

Printed spring cups probably do provide enough friction to stop the bed from shifting - this is perhaps a more secure alternative.

Thanks for the feedback!

I just printed one corner for my Cocoon Create Touch (rebadged Wanhao +), and it would be a snugger fit if the hole was moved 5mm diagonally towards the outside corner.
As it is, the spring fits perfectly, but the pieces swivel so that there's a sharp corner sticking out one side or the other.

Nice to see it being adapted to other models! The source files from DesignSpark Mechanical (free and relatively easy to use) are included if you wanted to tailor the hole spacing to your carriage plate.

I agree that the swiveling pieces is a problem, and something I'm looking to improve in a future design. Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks a lot! This has made a huge improvement in my print quality. I also discovered that my leveling was hindered by my Y tower screws being offset on one side. Put them both up as high as the tower would let me go and the bed was much easier to level.

There is almost no play in the bed now. I will probably glue the bottom pieces since they like to move around with the adjusters.

Good stuff!

Let us know how gluing those pieces works out, if you try it - I designed this Thing with gluing in mind, but never gave it a go myself.

Works really good, my bed was really bad before but not anymore thx!

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback.

Comments deleted.

that last picture, is that bearing carriers for a different y plate ? if so could i get the link

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1375534
it was already included in the description.

Wanhao i3 offset Y axis Bearing Block

Do you by chance use cura and are willing to share your petg profile? If not can you mention extruder temp, bed temp and any other critical values you changed to print petg? Can petg be printed with the standard extruder or do you have to go for the "all metal head" version. I'd love to print some things like glass plate holders in petg but only recently got my printer and so far have only done pla.

Hi - sorry for late reply - to answer your questions - the prints shown above were printed at an extruder temp of 238, with a bed temp of 60 (on the stock Buildtak-clone bed), with a Micro Swiss all metal hot end. I've since upped my extruder and bed temps a bit to get better infill quality and accommodate a PEI-on-glass bed. If you (or anyone else here!) is still looking for some help with PETG, feel free to PM me and I can share what I've learned from working with it.

Very nice mod.
My bed is much more stable now
I use Wanhao i3 Plus

Awesome! Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear it works with other i3 variants. Wasn't sure if the spring and screw diameters were the same on other printers.