Thingiverse is currently experiencing issues related to search. We are currently investigating. Thanks for your patience.

Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

robin7331

MPSM Extruder Arm v1

by robin7331 Jan 11, 2017
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Does anyone know if this would work with the delta mini? I need to get the measurements from it but looking to reduce the gaps so I can print tpu.

I believe that it should work on the delta. If I remember correctly the Delta and the Select mini use the same extruder parts

I'm really struggling to get this printed. I've tried probably 10 times. It gets just about up to the horizontal transition of the arm and it starts ripping it off of the platten. I think it really needs some more support around it to hold it steady while printing.

I just fitted this to a new V2. It fits with a few modifications to the required hardware and instruction. First off a warning, hold the extruder when removing the 3 Philips screws as it will fall in. Here are the changes along with pictures:
1- Use a tapered tool (I used a clay sculpting tool) to remove the bearing from the plastic shaft. Work it gently all around.
2- The black machined Allen that is used on the V1 does not exist on the V2. You will need:
1 M3x12mm Hex Cap Bolt
1 M3 Washer / or you can re-use the factory washer that was located on the pivot arm 2.5mm Allen
3- To install the bearing so that it aligns correctly with the hobbed gear install the washer UNDER the bearing and just snug everything up.

This design is far superior to the factory design as it completely eliminates the flex at the Bowden bracket. This helps at keeping the retraction consistent. Printed several tests in TPU without any issues. Thank You!

I have a very recent V2 model and the arm is different than the one you show; yours will not work on the newest model because the pivot shaft is larger and the roller is mounted differently. I broke the roller shaft (plastic part of the original arm) trying to get the roller off, and had to make a top brace so the roller would be usable. It's ugly, but will work until I can replace the original arm.

Either my spring or my arm has worn out which is causing under-extrusion when printing ABS. Slightly stretching out the spring fixed the issue for now. Have you thought about making an adjustable tension arm?

Jep. That is mine. But that is fine since I am in direct content with Printfab3D.

Ah okay. Then everything is fine, I just wanted to point out. :)

Yeah. But thanks for keeping an eye on that!

I've gone through a couple of these arms made with PLA. After a week or so, I started getting under extrusion with each PLA printed arm. I found that the arm was no longer 90 degrees, but the spring had pushed the arm out to greater than 90 degrees. The bearing was no longer pressed against the gear and filament with the appropriate amount of force, so the extruder gear was slipping on the filament. I'm currently using this arm printed with ABS. Hopefully it will not bend after some use. Always print a spare first after installing a new arm!

Hm that is weird. I am still printing on my very first arm made out of PLA.
Had not a single problem so far. What material did you use? And at what temperature did you print?

My first was red AIORobotics PLA printed at 200. The second arm was white TIANSE PLA printed at 210. The arm I'm using now is black Hatchbox ABS printed at 230. I've been using it for 3 days now, so far so good.

The baseplate I printed is still the red AIORobotics PLA that I printed with the first extruder arm. No problems there.

Hm that is really strange. If you like, send me a picture of your failed arm.
Maybe we can figure something out. Its reiter.code@gmail.com

Comments deleted.

I'm not sure if I understand correctly but the bearing inside the arm is held in place by a screw?

yes its held in place with a screw but it can move up and down on the screw shaft..

I was going to print both the arm and base plate but had a terrible time with all kinds of issues. Someone recently pointed out that if I have a cracked arm already, it will be difficult to print anything.

I'd really like to print all this out and have read about people glueing or clamping the arm. I'm going to try the super glue method but I have no idea what people are doing to clamp the arm together? Could someone explain that to me?

Sorry for the late reply. Somehow I did not get any notification for your comment :/
If you just have regular pliers and a spare zip tie that should do the job.
At least until you got the arm printed..

Am I the only one that has the hole that hold the ball bearing break and had to reprint one? I'm wondering why it broke...

Hm I am still running the very first printed arm and had no problems what so ever.
What material did you use and at what temperatures did you print?

Where did the screw that holds the bearing come from?

It is one of the four screws that hold the stock plate. It's completely fine if it is held only by 3 screws.

The downside to recent models of the printer (at least the one I have) is that it doesn't come with the allen head bolts on the top. Everything's a philips head. So moving one of the screws isn't a decent option.

That and be careful not to strip the thread in the motor housing. The thickness of this base means you might be tempted to over-torque, don't.

I saw a couple of installations that were made with the philips head screws. Did you have problems getting them out?

I stopped when it was clear the screw wasn't going to have enough vertical height to meet the top part of the arm. I've since ordered a bunch of M3 socket head screws and will revisit this. Meanwhile I'm using the stock arm on your printed base and things are working. I've also picked up an aluminum extruder assembly but haven't yet needed to use it. I'm a big fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" when it comes to new gizmos. My original problem may have been a clogged nozzle and possibly the heatbreak. I've since changed both of those too.

I wasn't happy how my Mini printed out your small cover portion for your arm design. I may reprint it before trying again.