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Tinker-Friendly LACK Enclosure

by zuspiel Jan 3, 2017
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Hello, do you have any measurements for the foamed PVC side panels? I don't have access to a table saw or any sort of similar cutting implement, so I'd have to have it cut at the hardware store I buy it from.

Great design. I am looking forward to making it. I would like to use acrylic for the side and back panels, so I've just designed this fully customizable window grip which I hope will help to minimise heat loss: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3661247

Acrylic Window Grip

Nice design, I am planning to adopt it to my needs. Although does your printer's PSU (Power Supply) tolerate the heat inside the cube? Should I transfer the PSU outside? What do you think? Thanks!

If you are looking for a great price on Acrylic for making this enclosure, check out Queen City Polymers. Than can engrave what ever you want into the material if you want to make it look fancy. They also have a store on Ebay under Powers Plastics. Check out there website at http://qcpinc.net/.

"Ideally, I want a 12V to 5.1V @ 2-3A solution that doesn't break the bank. Anybody have any ideas?"

Use a DC-DC buck converter which can do 3A, but instead of taking the manufacturer's word for it, use thermal glue to permanently stick a heatsink on the LM2596 chip. That way you can get 3A when needed without letting the magic smoke out of the chip. Buck converter around USD$5, and an aluminum heatsink sold for the CPU on a Raspberry Pi (might need to hacksaw off one row of points to make it fit, like I did) which will run you USD$2 and include a thermal sticky pad.

How do you keep warm air from escaping out the exhaust, when the fans are not on?

That was the main reason I went with three smaller exhaust fans instead of one big one. There's not much hot air coming out unless the fans are on. With the bed at 100C, the enclosure easily reaches 42C rather quickly. That seems enough for ABS and I don't have to worry about cooking the electronics.

Awesome Thanks!

Awesome looking enclosure, might I suggest hanging filament roller along inside wall (side or rear) to keep contaminants and moisture away? I have taken that approach with my enclosure and am very happy with results. I also like that the whole roll can be kept above ambient room temp.

can those legs exensions be higher? need approx 10cm ones :)

Comments deleted.

Hi, I'm very interested in your project, I have printed and use the extensions.
I have a question, how did you connect the sensor of the display? there is a way to connect it to the temperature controller or you have two sensors?

Stupid question, but where did you get those "clips" to get rid of the need to solder? Thank you. Sorry if this was obvious, or something. If it helps, I would like to know where to find them, or something similar, in the US.

I don't know if you've found these yet or not, but do a search for the following:

Home Depot Product Number: 203569123
TE Connectivity (Manufacturer) Part Number: 1776293-5

There are plenty more terminal blocks to choose from, but I believe these may be OP's.

I can't thank you enough, but thank you. I really appreciate the answer. I've been looking for these for a while. I just have one quick question, do these connector have any name? I suppose they are called terminal blocks, or wire clips. Thanks again.

The Amazon link to the 12v to 5v power buck says the item is no longer available. Here's a different one that doesn't require patching in a separate USB cable to the Pi.


I know this is dated, but what I did was pick up one of those USB car charger adapters (the part that plugs into the cigarette lighter port and has 2 USB ports on it) for $1, and removed the case from it and used a standard 6" micro-USB cable. Then printed a small enclosure for it and it works like a charm. It did require a tiny bit of soldering some wire to the connections where the cigarette lighter contacts were.

Im printing this rn. Thanks so far, looks sick!
btw. all amazon links are broken.

Anyway this could fit a CR-10S build of 300x300x400 ?

My cr-10s is sitting on one of these and its hanging over. They do make a coffee table version of these tables that are longer.

Hoy many centimeters do you have between the printer and the sides (left and right).
Thank's a lot to share your job !

None of your Amazon links seem to working anymore. They all direct me to the amazon homepage.

Amazon discontinued the tags feature on their homepage.

I'm hoping that OP will update with either a public Amazon shopping list, or direct links.

Okay, I tried to piece together the various Amazon parts based on the pictures and inferences obtained from the build notes and put them into a GitHub gist: https://gist.github.com/crkochan/bf5bbd632b2ce77c0ce830ee0591425b

Might not be 100% accurate, YMMV.

Can we confirm that this has worked?

Did you have to extender extruder cables to mount under the table? I'm struggling with the length and a suitable path.

Disregard. I see now. You mounted to the bottom of the enclosure top. I was trying to route to the bottom of the enclosure floor. May just have to get a router and clean out some space for the boards to go with fans.

HI, I downloaded the ExhaustFanHousing.scad file and wanted to change the fan sizes to 60mm. Tried that by changing this line "fan_mount(size=60,thick=3);" and after rendering the fans sizes do not change. Am I missing something? BTW, I'm new to scad.

I just finished the upper and lower leg parts, and attached them to the base. This fits really well, and the drill template that was recommended is perfect.

Dropping this in here because I saw some other confusion, and wanted to share what I used.

Screws - #8, 1" long sheetmetal screws
Pre drill to 1/8"

I'm not sure what is happening but when I print the parts for the 100mm legs, I'm getting a huge gap between the parts, almost 3mm.

I just encountered the same problem. Seems the tolerance between the parts is just 0.1mm. In this case the printer needs to be calibrated very well to produce parts which fit.Would be nice to have these parts with slightly higher tolerances, e.g. 0.6mm.

To fix the problem you could try to reduce flow rate a little. But then the parts may become less stable.

Or download Fusion 360 (free for students and fake students) and change the parameter "conegap" from 0.1 to 0.6 (in the Legextensions*.f3d file)

What size hardware did you use to attach the upper and lower extensions?

Awesome design! I’ve been working on a 2 layered (3x lack) case on and off for the past 2 months.

I’m looking for replacement springs for the hinges, any sizing advice? Can’t seem to find right size that will work as a replacement.


Given that the spring is fully enclosed in the cylinder, the size doesn't matter too much. The replacement I put in is significantly thinner and works just fine. You only need a slight amount of pressure to keep the door open. Probably a spring from a cheap pen would work.

Thanks for the reply, will try this evening!

Is there a version for 5mm plexiglass thickness?

Doesn’t matter in my original build. No idea about the remix with the holding tabs.

Which screws size did you used to fix leg extensions (on base and on legs)?


Sorry, no idea anymore. I used some sheetmetal screws I had laying around... ;-)

First of all thank you for your design.
Can you adjust the lower foot without the holder for the glass?
Thank you very much!

You’re very welcome.
The legs with the holder are a remix. My original ones here don’t have that... ;-)

Thank you very much!
The printer is already running;)

Hey! How do you do get the fan status to show on the switch

There's a separate positive pin just for the LED. You run a wire from after the control module back to the switch.

Which but holds the sides on?

The little printed angles.

Does this soundproof the printer any?

Anyone Tried to introduce pogo pin connectors to the leg extensions?

Has anyone done a 6cm set of the legs to fit an anet A8?

Small modification im going to implement in my build for the fume filter:

Lazy IKEA Lack Fan Duct

If anyone is interested on how to setup the LEDs, smoke detector, temperature detector,and power relay to control your 3d printer for emergency shutoff message me. I also figured out how to make a tunnel to access octoprint anywhere in the world without using port forwarding which is a common issue that prevents many from connecting to octoprint outside of local network. or if anyone is interested enough ill post the process next weekend hopefully on thingiverse.

Anybody have links or anything about the things Excal0315 mentioned?

sorry been busy with finals in college and work but finish tomorrow so will definitely get to it latest friday next week sorry guys

Excal0315 are you able to post some info about your setup? I've got some things figured out but still struggling.

im especially interested in the smoke detector part, the other things i think i figured out myself already. but i think you should post it either way :)

Ok will do it this weekend as thats when I finish my build :)

Would you be able to explain how you removed the springs from inside the hinges? I'm having trouble disassembling them to lessen the load on the polycarb.

With the hinges open, you’ll see a cylinder that pushes them open. You can take a screwdriver and pop the whole thing out. And things fly all over the place... ;-) Hold your other hand or a rag over the hinge to catch the two pieces of the cylinder and the spring. I just replaced mine with a weak spring to still hold the door open.
Hope this makes sense...

Thanks for getting back to me.

It made perfect sense! Just needed much more force than I expected since the collapsible cylinder had indentations allowing it to sit securely on the cross bars.

For anyone else curious, use a wide flat-head (preferably 1/4" or wider) and definitely heed zuspiel's warning about using a rag to keep things from flying. Had the spring hit me straight in the safety goggles.

What are the inside dimensions of the enclosure?

Hi Zuspiel! I would be interested in your system you created to introduce hot air inside the box! Alex

Hello ! Have you created a hot air system inside this box ?? :) Alex

No active heating, just recirculation (and cleaning) of the hot air. Heat source is only the heatbed of the printer.

Will a criality car-10 fit in this

No, from the looks of it, the CR-10 is way bigger than the MK2

I like the low profile leg stackers, but you do not have any stl files of this type even though you show a picture them. Could you upload them? Thanks.

Comments deleted.

Those were just a test print, sorry. You can either download the F360 archive and just change the parameter, or you can let me know what heights you need and I can upload them next week (traveling at the moment).

Bummer. I am not familiar with F360. Could you instruct me what parameter and where to change? I installed the trial but have no idea what to do. I don't need any specific size. I just want it to be low profile like the pictures.

See this video for a quick introduction to the parameters: https://youtu.be/7EiluC7ayOs

Don‘t quite remember the names but I‘m sure you can find them. Something with ‚height“ in the name is a good bet. After you change it, just export an STL via the ‚Make“ icon (uncheck „send to print utility“).

Let me know if you run into any issue.

Thanks, I was able to use F360 to resize it. Parameters make it pretty easy. That is if you know what they are, LOL.

@zuspiel hi first thanks a lot for your work. I decided and started to print the project, first lower parts. And now I don't know exactly with one should be the upper one cause I have a Plexiglas 500mmx500mm and my printer is an anet a6 can u help me?

@zuspiel sorry going to bother you one last time, are there specific wires i need to buy in terms of gauge size and what not

I used what I had laying around. Anything but the thinnest gauge is fine.

if you can update the buck converter to this

it allows you to set voltage to 5V and amps to 2.5amp which is the recommended power draw for the pi3 and you don't need to splice any cables since it has an optional usb output ;)

what were your print speeds @zuspiel and do you recommend getting simplify3d im new to 3d printing and only had my prusa for a week now with amazing results so far! can you also post a photo of your buck converter being used

I typically use 50 mm/sec for ABS. 50% underspeed for first layer and perimeters.
It's a great printer, especially if you stick to PLA.

thanks for the reply! also do you think you will be able to post a photo of your buck converter connected im getting confused on wiring.

I'm still using the suboptimal USB power converter... Should basically two 12V wires into the converter and two 5V wires going into a hacked up micro USB cable (or directly to Pi).

also how did you go about connecting your 3 40mm fans?

I connected them in parallel.

d are you still getting undervoltage alerts?
also i believe i figured out a way to program the smoke detector with the power supply and raspberry, i contacted the power supply manufacturer and one of there engineers is currently aiding me with the script and then i'll try to translate that to octoprint ;)

Yep and the Pi slows down, but it's manageable.

Cool RE detector and PS.

Hi I really like what you have for the enclosure. I am in the process of wiring mine up. I've been looking at the photo of the wiring layout of all your components. I tried zooming in on the top left corner, where your power supply connector is. I'm not able read to the writing on a component labeled CPT. What is this part? It doesn't look familiar to me. Your assistance is much appreciated.


It's a 12V input USB power supply. Sadly, its output voltage dips lower than it should. I'd use a cheap buck converter instead.

Thanks for your help.
I'll take your advice and go with the buck converter.


With this enclosure can I put my printer outdoor in a well covered spot?
The averge temp is from 10°C to 20°C

I supposed you could, but the enclosure was not designed for that. Couple of concerns come to mind:

  • Humidity - No effort at all was spent on weatherproofing anything
  • Smart printer firmware - A lot of printers will run into "mintemp errors" if things are too cold and won't fire up the heaters.

That said, at ABS temps, it should still be able to get close to 40C inside the enclosure. The foamed PVC sides and back help keep the heat in.

what size did you end up cutting the acrylic and pvc to?

Honestly don't remember. Just so they fit nicely.

By far one of the best and most interesting enclosures I've seen! I'm in waiting for my Prusa Mk2S, my first printer. I can't wait to make this! Thank you for your detailed description and instructions! I sent you a tip! I don't even have a printer yet!! Great job!

Thank you so much for the tip! Completely made my day! Was my first tip ever.
Enjoy the printer. It's a great one.

Got my Mk2S assembled and sitting on top of my first lack. Printing all the doo dads for the top half. Will send a pic when done. But are we ever "done"?

Thanks again!!

Awesome! And we're never "done"... ;-)

Could you draw up a quick diagram of the wiring including the digital display on the front? I'm having trouble seeing what goes where in the pictures you posted because of the pi cam ribbon cable is in the way.

Thanks! and awesome job!

Sorry, my printer has hardly any down time these days and I'd have to have a closer look myself. Will have a look at the pic, though. Maybe I can describe it better.

What you need is a 12v to 5V synchronous buck converter. You can get one for less than $2 from the far East.

Yep, that's what I'm switching to if I ever get some down time.

how do you plan to actually power the rpi from the buck converter? cannibalize a micro-usb, or the GPIO?

Cannibalize a USB cable.

Super design, great result.
This is giving me a base idea how to design my stuff.

FYI: the link to the 12V power supply at the bottom of your writeup actually redirects to some LED lights on Amazon.

Hi, great post and thank for sharing. I am still waiting for my printer to arrive, so plenty of time building my enclosure, apart from the 3d printed parts :)

I dont quite get the following
Air Intakes, this I get, just some passive holes in the lack table, but how are Fume control and Exhaust related?
Fume/hepa filter with fan I can see in the pictures, but where do you place the exhaust fans?

And another question, you use the exhaust fans to regultate the enclsore temperature, right? What temperature did you set the control unit at?

You got any recommendations for alternative 110V Power Relay? The one listed is out, and it looks like they'll stay out until they launch v2, but no idea when that'll be. This is something I'd like to learn more about, and thought this would be the perfect project to get hands on experience with it, but I'm really not sure what to look for now.

Appreciate any help. Cheers!

Had a quick look and couldn't find one either. This


will do the same thing but is expensive... They are easy enough to build yourself, but lots of care must be taken and if you don't have much experience with mains wiring, I wouldn't recommend it.

Hey any chance of getting the .scad file for the upper leg. Thanks

The legs were designed in Fusion360. A F360 archive is one of the files. It's been set up fully parametric so you can change the height at will.

Ahhh, sorry i missed that. Thanks

I thought I asked this before in a comment but does anyone have more info on how plexi/pvc panels are attached to the legs? I see the leg bracket but can't see any detail on the process on how to attach them. Anyone have pics of this?

I used four of the little printed L brackets for each panel, screwed into the table legs.

Heya. Just wanted to let you know I resized your air redirector to fit JKSniper's filter sandwich. Finally getting around to printing it but a test print shows the holes line up just fine. I added it as a remix but heres the link also: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2298198

Clean Air Redirector - Jure Filter

Thank you, sir!

How do we get the f3d files into STLs? I don't have anything that can open them.

You open them in Autodesk Fusion360. It's free for tinkerers that make less than 100k with it per year... ;-)

Hi! Very nice work bro.
I tried to scale "upper_leg_v1" in a not uniform way on Z and results is not good, because it scales all the parts, including the conical part that becomes deformed .
Can you make a version of it where, from original "45.3 mm" it becomes "95.3 mm", i.e. 5 cm more tall?
Or, can you say me how can I make it?

Just uploaded it. Bottom is the same, new top is "Upper Leg V2 95.3mm Total Height.stl".

In general, to change it, load the F360 archive into Fusion360 and change the "totheight" parameter to whatever you'd like. Hit "ok", just export a new STL for the upper leg part.

I tried to edit .stl file of Upper Leg with Netfabb, Fusion 360 and tinkercad but no results for me.
With Netfabb I cutted model in a rectangle and I scaled it to obtain more 5 cm. Netfabb not licensed doesn't have MERGE option, so I saved two parts in 2 .stl files. Moving to Fusion 360, I don't know why, but final result is x10 scaled! It is strange because if I import one of this .stl in Cura, it is good.. instead when I import it in Fusion it is very big. So, I moved in tinkercad for join two pieces but it render in a bad way the piece with a conic part. I wanna cry.
Here you can see problem with Tinkercad:
So you are the last hope. Thanks!

Sorry, my bad. I didn't select the entire component before export (and didn't check the STL). Just uploaded a new one (same name) that's correct.

F360 for some reason doesn't get the size of imported STLs correct. There always seems to be a 10x enlargement. The best way to change the measurements is to download and import the F360 archive (Leg_Extensions_v8.f3d). Then you have full access to the parameters (see screenshot) and can change them. For some reason I didn't merge the two bodies of the upper leg, so you have to select the component for the STL export. In any case, the new STL should do the trick for you without messing with Fusion.

You are really kind .. in fact I feel a little bit guilty to tell you that the measurement is wrong xD. Cura tells me that the piece is 90.3 in total on height, but it would be 95.3.
Sorry and thank you :D

No problem. The total height of both upper and lower combined will the 95,3 mm. The lower piece has a 5mm thick bottom ;-)

Or do you need 5cm taller overall? I can do that, too.

Just uploaded V3 with a total height of 100.3 mm. Upper leg is 95.3 mm. Hope that helps.

Hi bro,
I realized that the piece so high is difficult to fasten with the screws at the table leg (it would take long screws at least 8 cm). My mistake. Can I ask you another favor? Can you add to the "upper leg 100.3 mm total length" two lateral supports for screws? I mean like this:


I'm referring to this:
3D printer case with Lack tables (Ikea) found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121640

3D printer case with Lack tables (Ikea)
by Shoyun

I only just checked the model, but the parameters seem to do their thing. No longer screws should be necessary. The larger-than-screw-head diameter holes go almost to the bottom. So short screws should be fine. Now just also checked the STL. No long screws needed.

Thanks bro, this is exactly what I need, a total height of 100.3 mm :D

Thank you for the very fast reply!
I think there was a problem while exporting the model, because the "Upper Leg V2 95.3mm Total Height" is less the conical part.
Could you reupload this design?
Here you can see the problem:
Thank you :D
P.S. I didn't find the .f3d file for the legs

I've built one using some of your parts. Awesome design. I'm having trouble though fitting the Prusa in front to back, with teh control panel on the front. If I adjust so the control panel is in, the wires from the heat bed hit the back of the enclosure. Stop the wires hitting, and the control panel doesn't it.

My front door and back panel are both 3mm, inset between the legs, but flush with the front and back.

How'd you get around this problem?

Actually, my bed cable does hit slightly in the back. It's fine in high power mode. I keep meaning to move the LCD... Another option is to remix the bed connector cover to make the cables come out angled towards the top. I played with the Thingy that has them come out towards the right, but wasn't convinced...

Thanks. Glad it wasn't just me. I moved the back panel to flush with the outside to give me a bit more room, and designed some new LCD mounts which were ~25mm shorter. All fits now just nicely.

Neat! Care to share the LCD mounts? I'd love to try them.

Sure can. You made me make my first thing :)


Shortened LCD mounts for Prusa I3 Mk2

Awesome! Thanks. And that's what it's all about. :-)

Already collected and will print soon. My printer is already on some blocks, so that works perfectly.

Will also link it from the description when I get a minute.

I have what might be a dumb question but makes sense to me. Could you not just use this (http://amzn.to/2pbHtmD) and control your 12v fans do away with the switches and temp sensor? The one linked in the comments below seems to only be 120v and not and 12v outputs.

Very nice find! I didn't see this one. Yes, you most certainly could (and should ;-)

Anyone have a link to those 12v wire connector blocks on Amazon?

Sadly, I don't remember what they are called in English... Lüsterklemmen in German....

Thanks! Since it's all 12V, the less insulated terminal strips would probably be fine.

It's really a good job. I want to get inspiration from this work. But I have a question, I see that all the electronics is inside the box. Did you have problems with overheating? What is the average temperature of the interior?

Thank you


Prusa runs their print farm at ~43C. When I print ABS, I'm running similar temps inside the enclosure. No overheating issues, yet.

Ok, thanks for the information, I will surely start the construction of the enclosure

Great info- what lights were used? I don't think its a huge deal either way but I like the amount of light the pics show.

The lights are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAAUCZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. And it appears they are in stock again. Bit more expensive but I like the temperature, too. Will now order two more... ;-)

Going to print the upper leg stl and noticed that there were holes in the top of the mesh. Is this typical? I see through your snapshots that it's completely solid.

There should only be the 4 holes for the mounting screws. The STL is solid. Maybe some strange behavior of your slicer?

Hmmm Strange.. when I open it in tinkercad I have missing mesh but if I open in Cura or Fusion 360 both all complete. Any suggestions?

Is it the legs? If so, just use the F360 archive. Way less hassle and way better quality...
And F360 is really worth learning. I recommend the Fusion Friday videos my NYC CNC.

Yeah it's the legs upper to be exact. Yeah.. I spent this weekend learning tickercad. Oh well.. looks like it's time to learn something new. Thanks.. still kind of weird why it not present in tinkerCad.. Thanks again.

No problem. You're better off learning F360 in my opinion. Way more powerful. And the legs are fully parametric. You can just open the user params dialog (Icon looks like a capital sigma / sum sign) and adjust many things without having to draw anything.

I've been following this guide for about a week now printing out the necessary parts for my build. I picked up the Lack tables from Ikea and used different leg extensions (I don't need or want to remove the legs like this build). I've bought most of the electronics mentioned in this guide, and everything was looking great today until I hit a snag. As I'm using the other mentioned filter in the description, I noticed that the recirculator's holes doesn't fit the other filter system's holes.

Another issue I noticed is that the particle filter is set last, after the fan - I don't want to get any particles on the fan as that'll cause issues later down the line, this exhaust system needs to be reversed. So I'm going to redesign the system and place it under remixes if anyone's interested. It will use the same filters and fans so nothing will be changed there.

The only thing I have to say is that I am baffled by your wiring. While I do know how to re-wire lights, sockets, and other general things around the house, when it comes to electronics everything just goes over my head. I get a general idea of what's going on but there are some parts in the pictures where the wires are obscured or are not clear enough.

Between the power socket and the fan exhaust, is that a step-down converter? With the Pi 3 added it looks as though you've added a lot more wires to the build and this has thrown me off in some of the pictures. I need to purchase some wire and a few choc-blocks anyway so if I wire everything up - before I attach the power - is it possible you could check it out before I hit the switch?

Magnificent'y put together btw, I wouldn't have even bothered to make one without this guide. :)


It's all meant to be tinkered with, all remixes are very welcome (and kind of the point ;-).

Yes, there's a USB step down converter in that location. I still need to switch that out to a better buck converter.

Sure, I can check out the wiring, if needed. Trust your common sense, though, and you'll be fine.

Weird, your comment is "flagged for moderation" here and I can't see it. Sounds sensible, though. Definitely go with sufficiently sized wires.

Yeah, I'm not sure why it is too - probably because I used an HREF to the amazon link. Oh well.

Anyway, I've got everything now except for the two switches. For the last couple of hours I've been stripping wires from old dead devices and so far I've managed to get fans to work after a set temperature and the Pi working. I'm going to make a slight adjustment to the wiring where the step-down converter is going to be set to the power button instead of always on, that way there's no power draw from the PSU. Another addition I might make is a switch from the PSU to the power connector, or I might have a 2 plug adapter with a switch under the bottom table and simply turn it on or off when the printer will be in use.

You're totally right though, wiring everything is actually really simple! A positive knowing that I haven't burnt the house down yet. =)

A note about my remix of the exhaust. I'm experimenting with a screw-less system. While there will be a couple screws to screw the thing into the table, everything else will be slid in place. This means that if you need to replace a filter then you can slide that portion out, replace it, then slide it back. I'm thinking of a way to do the same thing with it connecting to the current triple fan holder already on here. So far it's coming along nicely. Taken a while to get used to Fusion 360 though but now I think I've got the hang of it.

Glad to hear you got the wiring figured out.

Note about the step-down: If you use it to power the Pi, you'll have to properly shut down the Pi every time before you turn the power off...

F360 is worth the learning curve!

Well, I did remodel the enclosure and while at first, it is considerably (half the size) smaller than the original (same fan size and filter), the pins that I had to do a screwless design was just a weeeeeeee bit too thin so they snapped off. It does mean that I can change parts without having to remove the device, but I need to clamp it all together now so I won't release the remix as it's a bit of a failure - unless people want to see what I've done and improve it. ^^;

Either way, I've got all of the electronics working together now, the last thing remaining is the Raspberry Pi, the Pi Camera, and the panels. Then it's all done. :)

I have wired everything very differently to you (I think) so I will post a diagram of the entire circuitry for everyone to see soon. I just want to get everything running smoothly first.

I found a similar https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M1KYBXP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, [url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GXXFBC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]step-down converter[/url], and the [url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0195HFFGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]pin adaptor[/url]. I was going to go for an all-in-one female DC5.5 x 2.1mm pin adaptor where it had a red and black in a sleeve, but the gauge seemed way too thin for the power supply in question, so I'll purchase some slightly higher gauge wire and then it's just a matter of piecing it all together. I can't wait but I have to for the power switches to arrive from Hong Kong. :(

At first: I love this Thing! It's clever, not too expensive and looks fantastic! Thank you very much, I will post my make in a couple of days.

I used the same three fans for exhaustion but it seems to get really hot in there, even with permanent exhaustion. I didn't tested it in detail, since I have just assambled the thing.

Did you heat your bed to 100°C for ABS?
What temperature did you set on the temp controller? 42°C like on the Prusa Farm?

Bed is at 100C for the first layer, 95C afterwards.

Temp controller is set to 42C. Max temp I've seen is 44C. But, yes, the fans are pretty much running all the time once it comes up to temp.

Okay, nevermind. It works fine. :D
The only issue: I think I need a stronger fan for the filter sandwich. I can barely feel any air flowing through. Maybe a little, but it's hard to tell.

You should use a fan built for static pressure. I purchased a Corsair SP120 for this build though I haven't tested the filter yet as I'm redesigning it. I'll let you know how I get on. Static Pressure fans are perfect for water cooling radiators so the same should apply here. A standard fan is no where near as competent.

Good to know. Please share how well it works. Thanks.

Now that's a useful tip. I will give the Corsair SP120 a try. Thank you.

With the smoke detector listed, I am trying to find out how to properly hook it to the Pi. Any diagram of how you did that and what coding you did to utilize it?

I still haven't hooked it up... ;-)

It's a fairly standard sensor, though. There are sensor libraries for the Pi out there.

Just printed out the feet / risers and figured I would share the actual results. The parts printed out great and took just a tiny but of sanding to get everything to fit together snuggly. The main reason I am writing this is to give an idea of realistic print times.

In Simplify3D with the following settings it said it would take 9 hours and 50 minutes to print:
Infill Percentage: 15%
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Speed: 100mm/s

With the same settings in Cura the projected print time was 10 hours 23 minutes.

The actual print time was 15 hours and 28 minutes. Slicers can't really take into account the actual print speed due to the speed controls in the firmware ( it probably really prints around 50mm/s due to the jerk settings / takeoff and slowdown speeds ).

now when u said 15 hrs, do u mean all 4? cause thats what my pronterface program is telling me when i print 2

also im new to 3d printing, when i use slic3r prusa edition and download the gcode straight to the sd card does it use the speeds programmed in the printer or the updated speeds set throught the slic3r program

I purposely printed them one at a time to have it go faster / cleaner. Doing all 4 at once or even just 2 adds a lot of time on for the movements between the parts.

thanks and also when i save these gcodes to the sd card does it also change print speeds? or keeps the print speeds set in the printers settings?

Printed my feet all in one shot, 4 of each. Using a Prusa i3 MK2. Same settings but used its Slic3r PET preset (I used Black Inland PETG) which i THINK is 60mm/s for infill and 30mm/s for all else. Took about 24 hours (Octoprint initially estimated 3 days!). In my case parts printed perfect with no need to do any finishing other than pick off a few stringies.

Edit: actually my layer height was 0.15 so that probably contributed to a far longer print time.

for you fume control, did you exhaust out of the enclosure or stay in? I see you have some exiting but cant tell. this is awesome looking by the way!

As far as I understand, the filter portion redirects the output down and back into the box via a re-director plate to ahve it recirculate back into the filters to inprove the odds of catching fumes and particles. The exhaust fans sit up behind the re-director and thus in theory should only vent clean(ish) air when on. There is no direct connection between the filters and the exhaust holes.

Correct. I figured if I keep the air inside reasonably clean, it should be ok to vent.

And thanks!

Im currently building on of these. Im done with the structure and is now figuring out how I want the electronics/fans/filters.

Wouldnt it be a good idea to have double hepa-filters and move the coal-filter only to the exhaust-fans? Since the "dirty" air would need to pass through more than one hepa filter to get the smallest particles away, and the coal-filter only is for the smell.

Or is it to heavy for the small fans to push air through the coal-filter? I have no idea about the filters air-resistance.

The coal filters flow pretty well. For a double HEPA setup, you'd definitely need a significantly stronger fan. My sandwich only produces a gentle breeze (but I think that's enough).

Just noticed the suggestion for the better looking filter sandwich. Does the air redirector you designed still fit?

Sadly, no. The redirector was made specifically for the other filter sandwich. Shouldn't be too hard to design a fitting one, though.

I like your hinges but I prefer an alternative door handle, so I've created a magnetic bracket that can be used with different handle styles. You can view it at the link below. Please feel free to add it to your description if you find it useful. :-)


Magnetic bracket for doors and enclosures

A couple of hardware/parts notes:

The Home Depot hinge you linked does indeed work as designed, but note it does not match the footprint of the hinge cover file you included without modification. To match I printed X at 44mm instead of 48mm. Y (48mm) and Z (0.8mm) remained as they were and were fine. However, make sure you measure the screw locations carefully as they don't line up where you might expect. Instead of sheet metal screws, I used M3 x 12mm screws and nuts, though I'll probably upgrade to lock nuts when I replenish my supply.

For the handle, I used this with two M4 x 16mm screws and lock nuts: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36465

Door Handle keep closed
Comments deleted.

The lack riser feet on your 7th pic look much shorter than the stls. Could you pretty please upload the stl for those? Tried editing the ones provided with tinkercad but the cone imports with missing faces and I am running linux so no fusion360 support :(

The feet in the pic are 1 mm higher than in the files, since I didn't get the "squareness" of the whole box correct. Combined, they provide a 50.5 mm extension of the legs.

If you'd like taller ones, just tell me the size and I can upload an additional STL.

Very nice build! I am in the process of making one also. I have the Lack tables stacked in front of me now, after having printed the feet / spacers to go between the two.

It looks like you have the RPi mounted to the underside of the top table? Can you take pics and show how the RPi is connected to the printer once the tables are stacked? Do you have a connector between the pi and the printer, to be able to install the two? If you have pics of that setup, could you possibly post them or send them to my email? Thanks!

Thanks! It's printing plus I'd have to take a wall panel off to take a pic from the side...
It's simple, though: See the coiled black cable behind the Pi? Part of that is the USB cable to the Rambo. A small portion of it hangs down right behind the frame and can easily be plugged into the RAMBo which is mounted on the back side of the frame with the USB port pointed up.

Thanks for the reply. Having the RPi connect via USB to the Rambo makes sense. I have a Folgertech 2020 i3, using a Ramps board and arduino, so I will have to look into a good setup for that. Thanks again!

I am confused how you vent your cabinet. Is there a vent hole in the top or back wall. Was going to vent mine out the window but sounds like if I use the charcoal filters I should be fine. Can you explain the ventilation to me. Sorry a little slow today.



Just wrote another reply and am also pasting it below. The three little fans in the back vent into the room.

I directly vent the exhaust from the 3 little fans to the room. The filter sandwich with the 12cm fan runs constantly when the enclosure is on. The idea being that the filter sandwich keeps the air inside the enclosure clean enough to directly exhaust. In addition, the three exhaust fans pull air from the area directly behind the HEPA filter, so it shouldn't have been mixed with "dirty" air from the print bed. 2/3 of the HEPA filter output gets redirected back to the bed, 1/3 "feeds" the exhaust fans.

Not perfect by any means but I don't want to mess with an exhaust hose and what comes out of the cabinet certainly smells clean... If you want to be 100% sure, you need an exhaust hose, though.

Again sorry very slow today. Can you take extensive pics and send them to me from the back? newellgregorya@gmail.com.

Will try to remember next time I remove the top. I don't like moving the enclosure/printer and the back is close to a wall.

This is really cool. I am currently building an enclosure for my MK2 (loving it!) and reuse a few parts from your idea. Thanks for sharing your work!!
I have a few questions:

  • How did you do the power cable management? Just added a hole in the back wall?
  • Do you use both filters described in http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1831932? Are they filtering all fume and smell when printing ABS? Or do you attach a venting hose to your exhaust?

Thanks for your feedback and happy printing!

HEPA Filter holder for 120mm Fan (86889 Style Filters)
by mq1991

Thanks. And MK2 is a lovely printer.

RE power cable: Yes, I just notched out one of the rear corners to allow the power cable to exit.

RE filters: Yes, I'm using both. I (and more importantly, my wife) can't smell anything and ABS is all I print these days. The continuous filtering appears to do its job.

Also, see Jure's improved filter holder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105113

HEPA + Active Carbon Filter for 3D Printer Housing

Thanks for your quick response.

This filter sandwich looks very good! Definitelygonna use it!
Do you attach a ventinghose to your exhaust? Or just the filter with the 3 little fans? There is a discussion all over the internet if these filters are filtering all toxic particles from ABS or not, that's why I am thinking about if a venting hose is necessary or not.

I directly vent the exhaust from the 3 little fans to the room. The filter sandwich with the 12cm fan runs constantly when the enclosure is on. The idea being that the filter sandwich keeps the air inside the enclosure clean enough to directly exhaust. In addition, the three exhaust fans pull air from the area directly behind the HEPA filter, so it shouldn't have been mixed with "dirty" air from the print bed. 2/3 of the HEPA filter output gets redirected back to the bed, 1/3 "feeds" the exhaust fans.

Not perfect by any means but I don't want to mess with an exhaust hose and what comes out of the cabinet certainly smells clean... If you want to be 100% sure, you need an exhaust hose, though.

That's what I'm thinking, too!
I'll stick to the filter sandwich first and maybe add a venting hose if necessary.
The safest way would be to avoid printing with ABS which I will try, but sometimes you have to.

Thanks for your quick help! Placing my order for all the stuff an amazon right now :)

Cool! Enjoy the build and the result!

I print ABS almost exclusively since I like its properties.

Does it matter what printing material is used? Will PLA work or should I use ABS?

I printed everything with eSun PLA+. Regular PLA should also be fine but may be more brittle. By now, I print ABS almost exclusively since the enclosure makes it trouble-free.

I was going to make the parts in PLA to begin with and switch to ABS when finished.

Don't think there's a need to re-make them. My PLA pieces seem perfectly fine. Doesn't get hotter than 45C, so should be ok.

Great work!!

I am waiting other link to buy the same leds.

A question, what are the wires that need to expand the LCD?

I will put all electronic outside enclosure

Sorry, I didn't track that down since I didn't put mine outside. Some people reported problems with longer wires, others say they work. YMMV, I guess...

For the hinges you used. Do you have the brand name? May have found them myself but I'd like to be sure. I would also like your input on how much those hinges resist opening the door. I am concerned that the acrylic may flex when pulling the door open leading to cracking around the hinges.

I believe the hinges are these:


You're right. The original spring is way too strong for the acrylic. You can either completely remove the cylinder with the spring or put a much weaker spring inside. I did the latter and it works like a charm.

Hello, how your motor feel alive? I think they are might too hot against boxless.

The stepper motors are less of a concern than the electronics. With ABS, I run the enclosure at around 42C. That's similar to the temperature Prusa run their print farm at. If it works for them, I'm not too worried.

I will probably redesign the RAMBo case to allow for a 40mm Noctua fan to keep the drivers cooler, though.

Electronics can not do anything in the box naturally. Drivers need to catch outside air, inside coolers cant cool any more with that temperature you know. I think about outside drivers (X and Y) in my next box (just box design, motors will stay on their old place, may be just X, Y motor I imagine in some perforating tube going through box, with coolers). Z motor you know not catch this heat.

Comments deleted.

Love the look of this case and might attempt something similar though the electronic wiring and everything might be outside my range of skill at the moment just getting into this stuff so it's a learning experience.

What kind of light strips was used I don't think I saw it in the list of build parts used. Also the tables I would assume it's just one size or do they provide different dimension for the tables?

Thanks! The wiring is not rocket science. You'll be alright.

The lights are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAAUCZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Problem is that they are no longer in stock. I really like the color temperature and construction. Am on the lookout for more of them...

The LACK table only comes in one size AFAIK (55cm).

Yeah I ended up finding the tables last night when I had a chance to sit down and do some searching they got 2 sizes one being slightly smaller but more expensive go figure. Sadly I am not sure if it would work with the printer I have the print area when the bed is fully extended towards the back and front on larger prints I think would run into the back and front walls measurements are pretty tight there. I got a Hictop 3dp-17 so I think I need to figure out a different set up.
I think I could figure out how to do the wiring I have the basics a few years ago but never did anything from there so would most likely take me some time to pick it up.

You ever thought of adding another enclosure where your filament is located to act as semi storage area to keep moisture out as well as hold extra spools?

can you take some more pictures of the enclosure and the wiring

Sure. Anything in particular that you're interested in?

I'll have to take the top off tonight to switch out the Pi cooling fan, anyway.

Just added a couple more pics of the wiring, including a diagram of how the exhaust fans are hooked up.

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Hi, really nice project. I'm waiting my new printer, and probably I will make this enclosure :)

One question, what do you mean with the last paragraph "If I had to do it again, I'd probably use 20x20 extrusions. In the end, the Lack tables don't save that much money and most of the cost is elsewhere, anyway." ?



The LACK tables are very nice for the price. One could spend an extra $70-80 to do the structure in aluminum extrusions, which would look cooler. Or maybe not... I'm somewhat torn, if you can't tell ;-)

Awesome project and very nice description. Best Lack-table-enclosure-setup I have seen so far!!!

I am also thinking about Lack tables. Do they isolate the noise properly? I have doubts since they are built from extremely light material and using solid wood might silence the noise better. Did the more homogenous temperature in the build volume improve the quality of your prints? (I am currently dealing with annoying warping with PLA when printing bigger objects. Also on the Prusa MK2)

Thank you.

They isolate the noise somewhat, but not great. I use a foam pad under the printer, which helps.

I've only printed ABS since I finished it and have no warping. Did a 5cm high, 20 cm long, 1 cm wide beam as the first print. And the ends stuck down without any glue, magic, prayers, or anything else ;-)

Amazing project, really like it! Just got a second MK2 and will have a look into this myself. Thanks for sharing!

Wicked setup!

To power my Pi I used one of these (https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-1Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHAOQO)
I have it wired into the printers power supply so the Pi turns on and off with the printer. The board can push 3A which is sufficient for the Pi, a webcam and to charge the tablet I use as the front end to Octoprint.

Yes, those work. Thanks for the link. A friend of mine pointed them out to me shortly after I was done. You can also get them on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-Re-DC-DC-3A-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-LM2596S-/222245520202?hash=item33bedd834a%3Ag%3AUZsAAOSwknJX05VB). My box of 10 just arrived today ;-)

The leg extensions were a brilliant idea. So that I can cut my glass correctly how much height was added with the leg extensions?

Sorry for the delay in answering. The extensions are 50.5mm but you can adjust it in Fusion360. It's a parameter.

Very nice what you have done.
Lots of people may benefit from it.
I will for sure, i am currently making an enclosure for my Zonestar p802QR2.
After looking to your work i will change some of the things i have done already.


Thanks! I'm glad it's useful. Good luck with your enclosure. Make it better than mine!

Great work!
Ty for sharing.