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Pawpawpaw85

CiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

by Pawpawpaw85 Dec 30, 2016
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Will it clear the level sensor and my flexion extruder?

Minor geometric update, but please use the latest revision :)

I've been having issues with the 5015 24V fans I've been ordering. They seem to be not compatible with the speed/pen control and dying rapidly when ran under 100% speed. I just order the recommended fans from the bangood link provided. Do I need to install anything else (capacitors, etc.) or are these just plug and play? (Maker select plus)

Hello there. They should not need any other components to run, they are specified to 24V/0.1A. PWM should not be an issue either as a lot of folks are using them without issues.
Have you tried contacting banggood for replacement? I guess you may have gotten some from a bad batch if you're experiencing the same issue on multiple units? Have you checked the printers voltages, or have possible to check the PWM output to see if it's correct without any big spikes in the output?
A lot of folks are using them without issues, this is first time I've heard they are dying like that.
When you say "dying rapidly when ran under 100% speed", do you mean like milliseconds before death or hours/days ?

I have ordered fans from bangood but get have not arrived yet. I previously ordered fans on Amazon because of faster shipping. I have had a total of 5 fans die on me. They vary as to when they fail. But generally that don't survive a print running at 80% speed (2 to 7 hours). They work fine at 100, but that causes other issues. I even had one fan die in about 30 seconds. I used two batches of fans from different brands. All of them failed. Are all 5015 24V fans compatible with my printer? If so than there is an issue with my printer

Hey, I have had the same problem with fans on Amazon. Please let me know how the ones on BG are.

I have the bangood ones installed right now. Took forever to ship, but they have been kicking strong for about 3 weeks now.im very happy with them. I will add that when I first put them on they were very noisy and causing vibrations on my extruder. I realized the adapter I printed that holds the daughter board was pressing against the fan. I cut of some of the adapter so it wasn't touching the fan. That made things much better. The board is now exposed but I'm ok with that. So yes, the bangoods are great. They come in a pack of three as well, but first one worked straight out the box.

Unfortunately I can only hope that the fans you do recieve from BG will work better for you, I've had mines for two years without issues so far on a 24V printer, but if they also do fail, then something may be an issue on the printer itself. Hope you can get it sorted!

I printed the shorter model to use with a Maker Select V2 which has a Flexion extruder installed for printing TPU. The flexion is shorter than the stock head and does not seem to be adjustable the way the original was, so the fan ring and the nozzle are both very close to the bed, almost at the same level. Filing the edges of the mount and reeming out the holes gave me a little room to play but not enough to over come the use of clips to retain the glass bed.

I love the idea of this part but think there should be a version with vertically slotted holes to allow some up and down alignment.

A couple notes for anyone printing this for a Maker Select Plus (and by extension, I would assume, the Duplicator i3 Plus and clones):

  1. Despite the comments to the contrary, I did not need to print an adapter. Both the original PCB box and CiiCooler were able to mount to the bearing block. I had no issues with hotend wire length. The only wire that would have been "too short" was the original fan, but since that has to be replaced anyway it's a non-issue. You will, however, still need slightly longer M4 screws, of course.

  2. The CiiCooler did not hit the bed. It fits perfectly, leaving the nozzle exposed as needed.

Prior to this, I had been using the DiiCooler but I just recently installed a BLTouch and the adjustable bracket interfered with the mounting of the DiiCooler. The CiiCooler, thankfully, works like a charm. Plus, I get the added benefit of being able to see the nozzle more clearly from the front of the unit. ;)

magn2o which file CiiCooler file did you download?

Good to know, I'm going through the same chain of events, so your comment saved some print time. :]

Edit: installed and running fine!

Did you use the 24v radial fan linked from banggood? How do you connect it? On banggood it looks like it comes with just raw wires.

If you can't tell, I'm not an electrical engineer...haha.

Thank you for the Infos. I print it for the i3 Plus tomorrow.
What length of M4 screws do I need?

Thank you for this comment :)
Since I only own one of the very first v1.0 Duplicator's, I have to rely on feedback from users for all the information and fit-tests for other printer models. Thank you for taking the time of clarifying what worked for your Plus printer so that others may know as well!

Just printed the short version, Now I can see the nozzle much better.
One problem.
With the V2.1 I needed the adapter and it wouldn't fit because I have the X belt tensioner so I had to cut off 1cm.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1820493

Ultimate Wanhao i3 X Belt tensioner
by typoman

Hi

Thanks for this cooler and the eiii!!! they are awesome. i have a wanhao i3 plus and i have some doubts related with the mounting. I mounted the cooler all the way to the left (looking to the printer) but, measuring with calipers, my nozzle is still 0,8 mm offset from the center of the cooler (the distance between the left side of the nozzle to the cooler is 14.3mm and for the right side to the cooler is 15.9mm). Could this offset make a big impact or do you think this shouldn't be a problem?

I've printed the 1.32 version

Cheers

Hello. That should be fine. The cooler creates quite turbulent airflow when its moving over printed parts so a small offset should not be any problem :)

Great, that's settled then! :D

Thanks

So ive noticed that when placing my cooler on the back of the bearing block, both tips of the cooler are touching the heating block. I think i printed the 1.32.

What printer is it you're using?

they also sell nozzles that are taller or shorter(cone geometry i'm referring to.), This can also help achieve right height. I'm converting to v6 hotend on my plus and don't have the capability anymore to move heat break, so nozzles are the way to go if your in this situation.

Greetings & thanks for this cooler. I have a MP Maker Select Plus and I printed the 1-32.stl and noticed that spacing between the bottom of the cooler to the nozzle tip ~5mm instead of the recommended 1-3mm spacing. Should I be printing the 1-31.STL instead. Tried to compare the 2 STLs side by side but was not able to determine the difference. Thanks In advance for your feedback

Hello. Note that Wanhao does not mount their nozzles at exact same height in the printers they manufacture.
You can quite easily adjust the height of your nozzle by moving the heatbreak up more in the mounting plate, moving it up 3 mm should get you to the right distance.

Hello. I mixed your cooler with Mistral cooler for Anet A8 ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121279 ). I used mount part from your model and nozzles from mistral.
Can i post it? )))))

"Mistral 2.1" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer
by Leo_N

That should be fine yes :)

Great Cooler! Thank you making this. I have a Plus model and notice the left side of the heating block is touching the cooler. has anyone else seen this?

You should be able to move it slightly sideways before tensing the screws on the back, have you already tried this? (Should be able to move ~2 mm from side to side)

Make one that uses 2 fans! One on the back like this and one on the front like the diii.

Hello there.
Adding an additional fan in parallel wont do much beside taking up extra space.
Both Diii and Ciiicooler relies on internal pressure and balanced output ports for their working principle.
Having two fans in parallel doubles the airflow capability of the input system, but unfortunately gives approximately the same static/dynamic pressure, so the fans will just fight each other and not deliver more output as they cant build up much more pressure than a single fan.
What's better is then getting one fan that can deliver twice the dynamic pressure than that what you're using now, if your goal is to get more output of air.

So I made an inverted or somewhat mirrored version of this model that lets you flip the fan so the intake is in the back and away from the cables on the I3 plus. However I just now realised I wasn't supposed to remix the model. So I'm rather hesitant to upload the design. Is there anyway I can still share my design as I believe it will help a lot of people.

Edit: I've been allowed to upload a remix which you can find here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854312

CiiiCooler inverted for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select
by MrShhh

Hello. Have sent you a message that will allow you to post it if you follow the instructions :)

Thanks for allowing that. The ciicooler doesn't seem to work quite as well on an i3 Plus with a PCB mounting adapter without flipping it because the intake is somewhat obstructed by the PCB mount.

I build the CiiCooler for my Maker Select plus, it works perfectly except that I needed to set P=22, I =1 and D=92 to keep the temperatures at the nozzle almost steady.

Can someone help me troubleshoot this problem? I'm trying to print the cooler, using raft plate adhesion. But it keeps failing because of waving of the upper layer. What can I do to fix that? On the upper third nozzle temp was 210°C with no fan. Middle part where it's the smoothest, 220°C with no fan. Lower part is on 220°C with (original Wanhao i3 V2.1) fan on 100%. Heated bed was on 50°C, no levelling issue.
After a few fails I decided to print it using brim instead of raft, on 220°C with no fan, since that was the only acceptable part of my raft fail. It finished the printing, but it still gave me those 'waves', just not that bad, so it could finish. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

My best guess is that your material is too hot and/or that you need a bit of fan. It looks like the material does not cool down enough so when it keeps printing, it's still flexible and start bending into those "waves".
That being said, dont worry about it, if the rest of the cooler is well printed, it should still work well, enjoy your wavy cooler :)

Thanks, I guess I'll try to print another cooler with the wavy cooler cooling it to test that theory :D
It was an easy assembly, hopefully it will improve my prints too!

It came out perfect on my Maker select plus with bed temp = 95deg C, nozzle temp = 240 deg C and fan at 24% for ABS filament.

Any Chance you could make a adapter for the stock fan of the i3 plus? The bang good link in the description for the blower fan never seems to be in stock.

Hello. Adapters are available at DiiiCooler page https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471/#files
For both 30mm and 40mm axial fans. Just be aware that the performance will be limited and not be very good with the stock fans.

DiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

Can this info be added to the page writeup with a link perhaps?

Oh sweet cheers I didn't realise it could be used with the ciii as well :)

Thank you so much to sharing the design. I printed the cii cooler and adapter for my Monoprice Maker SELECT V2 (which is identical to Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1). However, the adapter canot stay well on the backend of the rod. Any trick? Thanks.

Hello. Mind explaining how the adapter cannot stay on well?
What's causing the issue for you of it not staying on well?
I'm running it at both V2.0 and V2.1 machines without issues.

Doesn't matter. I just figured out that I made a silly mistake by using two nuts instead of using the existing holes. See my mistake in photo:-)

Hehe yes, shouldnt be any nuts there for sure, glad you got it working and hope the cooler will be of much use for you now! :)

Thanks for this. I was using it (with an adaptor) and the Eii cooler on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus, with microswiss hotend up until today.

For the past couple of days, I have been trying to print the Vorpal Hexapod top, and I couldn't figure out why pieces of it were breaking off once the head got near the top of the print. It turns out that the cooler was drooping just enough to catch the tines of the lid and breaking them off. I have just taken the cooler off, and am trying another print. I think I'm going to look for another cooler setup that is more optimal for my DI3plus clone, because with the adaptor, this cooler just doesn't fit right. :(

I was going to print this and I also have a Maker Select Plus. Was the cooler hitting your hotbed when lowered, or did it start drooping after printing for a while? Were you using the regular-sized cooler, or the short one? I don't want to spend the time printing/assembling this if it's not a good match for the Select Plus.

Thanks.

Can this be used with an E3dV6 hotend?

I saw on youtube a guy had this cooler plus the stock fan left on at the same time. What's the benefit of that?

The cooler is not designed to have additional airflow going towards the nozzle.
The output from the Ciiicooler is designed to be balanced all around the hotend,
adding additional airflow to that will likely make it unbalanced again.
If it still works as well I do not know :)

I love this cooler but does anyone know if there are any remixes or adapters that allow the radial fan to be vertical instead of at an angle like it currently is? The angled fan right now runs into and jams up on the bed wiring when trying to print near the edge of the bed.

I know you asked for this ages ago but I ran into the same problem an have made a remix of this model making it inverted or mirrored.
You would have to flip the radial fan so it intake is in the back.
However I just now realised I wasn't supposed to remix the model. So I'm rather hesitant to upload a remix of the model. Send me a PM and I'll send you the model.

Edit: I've been allowed to upload a remix which you can find here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854312

CiiiCooler inverted for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select
by MrShhh

just tied down the bed wiring.
problem solved.

I agree if the fan angle is increased there will be more opening at the fan inlet for better airflow.

difference between 1-31 and 1-32?

1-32 should hopefully improve so that it mounts more "flat" to the V2.1 printers.

1-32 short seems almost lopsided, or tilted down on the forward part of the cooler, I'm about to print 1-31-short to compare.
I originally had 1-31-short on my printer before it warped.

Hello. The only difference in their geometry is the height of the fastening position, there is no other difference.
Have you checked if there may be been something going wrong with the print? (warping during printing etc?)

Good call, I printed 1-32 in ABS, I think I'll give another try with 1-32 printed in PETG

This was a nice surprise.
I printed it without noticing the version (last time I printed the 1-31) and it fit without the adapter.
I thought I made a mistake somewhere :D
Works perfectly on v2.1 with flexion extruder hotend (using ASA).

Thank you for this amazing design.

Would it be possible to get a modified version where the fan is more horisontal? I imagine the intake would be better for the fans air intake.

Good suggestion.

Does NOT fit the Anycubic i3 MEGA!!!!
Cooler is still lower as the Nozzle. Even the short version!

The cooler is as the title say, made for the Wanhao Duplicator i3.
The probability of it fitting other printers without modifications is quite small.

No Problem! I just want to mention it since in the Anycubic Facebook group someone mentioned it fits. Unfortunately it does not.

I came here to check if it would work on my I3 Mega. Thank you MrPuzzle ;)

Anyway maybe we have a remix already?

Hello!

1) Thank you very much for the design. I have a PLUS and purchased the 24V fan but it doesn't seem to run when the cooling fan should be on. Is this what you were meaning by possibly needing to switch the wires in the connector?

How do I do that?

Hello. Yes, the Wanhao printer has the fan pins setup in a different order than most 24V fans. Try reversing polarity and see if that gets the fan running.

I've got a 2.1 that has printed belt tensioners that get in the way of the adapter. I cut the top of the adapter off and everything seems to be working great now. I hacked the adapter up with Tinkercad and I'm printing it now but I see the no derivative license so I can't share it and thought maybe you would want to put out a version that doesn't reach around the bearing all the way.

Cheers!

Is it possible to get a "mirrored" version of this cooler so the fan can mount upside down?
The Wanhao i3 Plus requires a modified PCB mount (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050157) which means the fan's intake is mushed into a tiny space.
Directly "mirroring" the whole print doesn't work because the mounting holes are slightly off-center. The resulting print will have the cooler touching the hot end.

Carrier support for Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus - for CiiCooler
by jcheger

I know you asked for this ages ago but I ran into the same problem an have made a remix of this model making it inverted or mirrored.
However I just now realised I wasn't supposed to remix the model. So I'm rather hesitant to upload a remix of the model. Send me a PM and I'll send you the model.

Edit: I've been allowed to upload a remix which you can find here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854312

CiiiCooler inverted for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select
by MrShhh

Chiming in, this would be a massive improvement for plus owners. Just installed mine and while it's functional, I'd definitely say it's less than ideal.

Mirrored, or simply angle the fan so it is horisontal. Perhaps printing a 3-4cm tube and mount the fan further away would be enough?
Thank you for your input as I plan my i3 plus upgrades for a radial fan.

Angle the fan more horizontal is preferred. Reversing the fan will suck hot air over the bed.

I have a monoprice v2 or v2.1 but what's the difference?

I really love the CiiCooler, and had really great results with it! But can you make an Version with an connection in the front like an bridge? If looking on the printer the right cooling side is hanging down after many hours because of the heat (and the cooler is made out of PLA)

An stable bridge that connect the upper ends but still let you see the nozzle should make this much more stable for PLA ones

I haven't tried ABS before and want to stick with PLA...
Otherwise and version with thicker walls could maybe also reduce the problem.

Perfect would be if it had arms that goes to the Stock mounting holes.

Dont use PLA for this part.

Thanks for this cooler! Using it is the first time I got some serious brigding done! :-)

Thanks for the comment and tip and hope it'll keep working well for you :)

I see that you posted a different version of this last year. I have the maker select V2 and im wondering which version would work better.

Hello. Which version of what are you referring to? CiiiCooler mounts to the V1 and V2 without the adapter, and to the 2.1 with the adapter. Hope that helps!

I like the cooling of the Dii cooler, but also the rear mounting of the Cii cooler. Do you have any plans to make a Cii/Dii hybrid? a 360 degree cooler that mounts from the rear of the carriage?

If it get many requests perhaps, but currently all busy doing R&D on building a cheapo laser cutter.

What is it you find a problem with the ones available?

Obviously 360 degree cooling is better performance, but the CiiCooler frees up the stock fan mounts for other things such as a Z probe. Not so much a problem but the best of both worlds.

The CiiiCooler is not far behind the performance of the DiiiCooler. I dont have the sparetime to spend on making such a version of it (at least two are needed due to wanhao model changes to the bearings)

I have both CiiCooler and DiiCooler. I dont see the difference in the print, both work equally well.

does anyone know if a BLTouch can work with this on?

Comments deleted.

Hi,

Witch one do i need for my Duplicator i3 V2.1, the short one or the "normal" one? :-)

Thanks!

Hello, i just made an adapter for your cooler, thank you for the design.

The adapter is for Zonestar P802N

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2365708

Cooler Adapter for Zonestar I3 P802N

Hello. I'm not sure it fits this cooler, are you refering to the DiiiCooler instead?

any chance you include it in step? i am trying to make a D-BOT mount adapter

Hello. I do apologize in advance but unfortunately I dont share step files anymore due to people have violated the CC license too many times.
I could perhaps take a few measurements if there's anything you're interested in.

Hi there, any chance of making one even shorter ?
I change the extruder by a MK8 (after some bullsh*t) but the nozzle is higher now.. any cooler is too long now =(

I've tried over and over but i can't get the cooler to sit horizontal on the v2.1 machine

I'm in the same boat. Mine seems to lean with the open circular area going up

having issues getting the temperature to hold. I did a pid tuning with the fan atv100% per some instructions I found. and ran it at 50% during print. even 25%

I have found the same problem. The Dii cooler worked fine for me, but I am having nothing but problems with this cooler.

I should add. I have a v1 with a microswiss hot end

Does anyone use this Ciii cooler for temperatures in the 230 range? I just cannot seem to get this to reach those temperatures with the fan while doing PID tuning. I think it only works if the fan is set to about 10%.

do you guys usually enable the cooler fan on your prints after X layers? or right after the initial layer?

I haven't tried this fan yet but I wonder if better insulating the heater block would help. Maybe wrapping some kapton around the exposed block?

I'd like to share a slightly modified version which makes the mount more versatile for other printers, but this is tagged as "No Derivatives." Would you consider changing the license to allow non-commercial derivatives? Thanks.

This would be nice.

I've printed this twice in petg and both times the print failed because of the bridging. There are places where it needs to bridge 19mm across and the nozzle is catching on the center divider (splitting the air flow). How in one layer are you capping (bridging) the entire cooler without problems. I really love this design but do not see how to make this work. Petg does not bridge as well as pla, but I need a cooler that can handle the higher temps.

Here's a pic: http://d.pr/i/43QL

At what temp and speed are you printing PETG? I have printed it twice without issues.

I am new to printing with PETG. I used this guide at a starting point. http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593
I am using a Maker Select 2.1 with Microswiss hot end.

Here are my Simplify3D Settings:
Extruder
Retraction
Enabled

Retraction Distance
    1 mm

Extra Restart Distance
    0 mm

Retraction Vertical Lift
    0mm

Retraction Speed
    40 mm/s

Wipe Nozzle
    Enabled

Wipe Distance
    5 mm

Layer

Primary Layer Height
    0.2 mm

Top Solid Layers
    5

Bottom Solid Layers
    5

Outline/Perimeter Shells
    4

Outline Direction
    Inside-Out

First Layer Height
    98%

Start Points
    Optimize start points for fastest printing speed

Additions

Use Skirt/Brim
    Enabled

Skirt Layers
    1

Skirt Offset from Part
    4 mm

Skirt Outlines
    2

Infill

Internal Fill Pattern
    Full Honeycomb

External Fill Pattern
    Rectilinear

Interior Fill Percentage
    35%

Outline Overlap
    10%

Infill Extrusion Width
    103%

Minimum Infill Length
    2 mm

Print Sparse Infill Every
    1 Layer

Infill Angle Offsets
    0
    120
    -120

Support
Generate Support Material

    Enabled if needed.

Temperature
Primary Extruder
Layer 1
250

    Layer 2
        247
            I am going to try lowering this to around 230 and doing some bridging tests.

Heated Bed
    87

Cooling
Per-Layer Fan Controls

    Layer 1 Fan Speed
        0 %

    Layer 2 Fan Speed
        100%

Other

Default Printing Speed
    40 mm/s

Outline Underspeed
    50%

Solid Infill Underspeed
    75%

Support Structure Underspeed
    75%

X/Y Axis Movement Speed
    80 mm/s

Z Axis Movement Speed
    16.7 mm/s

Horizontal Size Compensation
    0 mm

Bridging Unsupported Area Threshold
    10 sq. Mm

Extra Inflation Distance
    1 mm

Bridging Extrusion Multiplier
    140%
        I am going to try lowering this to 80% based off this video and run some tests. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mj2tYEPyqvM

Bridging Speed Multiplier
    125%
        I am going to try lowering this to 80% based off this video and run some tests. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mj2tYEPyqvM 

Advanced

Thin Wall Behavior
    Allow Gap Fill when necessary

        Enabled

Allowed Perimeter Overlap
    0%

Only retract when crossing open spaces
    Disabled

Force retraction between layers
    Enabled

Minimum travel for retraction
    Disabled

Perform retraction during wipe movement
    Enabled

Only wipe extruder for outermost perimeters
    Enabled

Movement Behavior – Avoid crossing outline for travel movements
    Disabled

Is there any chance of a version with an M3 captive nut for these fans ?
12V: DELTA BFB0512HH
24V: DELTA BFB0524HH

Possible design variant: angle the fan connection more upward. As it stands now, my heated bed cable bundle sometimes interfaces with the Ciii cooler when the y position is close to min and x is traveling toward max. I still really like this cooler design.

Angle it more upwards would cause interference with the mounting screws as it is currently, but perhaps an adapter that angles the fan upwards would be possible to connect. Unfortunately have very sparetime at the moment to look into it, but if you design one let me know and I could put a link to it if you want.

I really like this design and would like to use it on my A8 printer. I'm having a problem getting the model to import into SketchUp, though. I have tried 10-15 times and SU crashes each time. I have imported dozens of other STLs from Thingiverse with no problem. I have also tried loading the model into S3D and CURA, then saving it as STL again - all fail trying to import to SU.

Help???

Thanks!

Been waiting for a good back cooler. Thanks!

My LED light mount will work perfectly with this

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1477031

Wanhao Duplicator i3 LED mount

Hey,
im having some issues with my wanhao v2.1.
i have a bondtech extruder mounted which means the hot end is a bit more forward compared to before.
i scaled the y axis to 100mm, ill share what i've found.
i see you have the noctua fan installed, how is that working out?
I bought one myself, but i get insta heatcreap and jam if i use it..

i had to scale the y axis to 110 to make it fit the bondtech extruder setup.
I did notice the nozzle is off center (bit to the right) compared to the cooler, how can this be?

Sorry but I dont know, I dont have a bondtech extruder.

The noctua worked quite well but also did get a minor issue with heatcreap on warm days.
Was a while ago since I changed to the EiiiCooler instead.

Is it possible for you to upload the source files for this cooler ? I'd like to use it in my new printer and need to import it into my CAD package (OnShape) in order to check clearances etc. STL files cannot be used in OnShape assemblies sadly.

Thanks.

I unfortunately dont share source files anymore of my items as people in the past have sold my designs on other sites, claiming it to be theirs. I do apologize for this inconvenience, but with a caliper it shouldnt take long to model the exterior in OnShape if you know the program?

That's a shame, but I fully appreciate the reasoning. I will just model the externals as you suggest, was just hoping to save some time.

Hey, just printed and installed the "CiiiCooler_1-31" and "CiiiCooler_Adapter_V2-1_1-5", the nozzle is slightly off center. i dont have my calipers handy, and my crappy tape measure isn't precise enough, so i cant tell you exactly how many mm, i was able to reduce it slightly by loosening the bolts and shifting the cooler shroud slightly, but its still noticeably off center.

Tried this on my i3 Plus but it was too low on one side and kept knocking the print.. Any ideas?!

Best way to mount the cooler is:

  1. First set Z-Home
  2. Stack three credit cards on the bed in front of the nozzle and then let cooler rest on it and tighten the screws.
  3. Check that back of the cooler has almost similar gap.

Heya quite nice, im gonan try and print this later today.
Ill try it in PLA, but i wonder when the printer is covering the airduct (inside hole) up, wont the lines jsut droop down and it will be hard to make the top.

Also did it take a logn time to make this part, and what CAD did you use :)
Many thanks in advance

just tried installing this and i think i burnt out my fan i think :(

using this fan
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018GFH76K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

reconnected it exactly the same and the stock one and it wouldnt spin, connected it to reprap so manually control it and nothing. thankfully i havent damaged the board so i ave gone back to the stock fan until i find the issue.

Comments deleted.

For those of your using the Plus version...

  1. As suggested, get a blower fan (and make sure it's 24v). I'm using the stock fan with adapter, which works, but a lot of air comes back out the backside. And since I don't want to wait as long, I ordered this fan which ships immediately from the states: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/delta-electronics/BFB0524HH/603-1116-ND/1014447
  2. The default model touched the base-plate for me. It might not for others, but might consider going for the "short" version.
  3. I used this suggested Plus adapter which worked fairly well: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2011571
  4. I'm considering adding this mount for additional space as well: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010927
Maker Select Plus/Duplicator i3 Plus adapter for CiiiCooler
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Wiring Bracket

[UPDATE #2]
Just got the fan I mentioned, and now this print really is great. It works so much better with a blower fan! I will likely need to keep it at lower speeds since it's not only very strong but also a bit loud at 100%. I added a couple updates pics in my make.

[UPDATE]

I installed the short version, and it looks much better! Also I installed the new wiring adapter/mount which raises the board up higher and this also seems to work. I'm still waiting on the blower fan however. See pics of my current installation in my make.

Could you include the adapter file without the built in raft? My printer doesn't seem to like it. Or perhaps just the original CAD file so I can edit it myself? Thanks!

What happened to the instructions? It's just blank, looks like this:

[MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS]
1)
2)
3)

Is it similar to the DiiiCooler instructions? I have a V2.1 so I'm wondering where the adapter goes.

Adapter goes to the back. Sorry havnt had time to finish the instructions, but just print adapter, use the screws for the V2.1 and mount it at the back bearing slot.

For i3 v 2.1, exept the adaptor, i need the 1-29 or the 1-31? :/

You'll want the 1-31
Sorry for the confusion, want a few more people to verify the 1-31 version fit all printer models until I remove the 1-29 version.

ty for the quick reply, i will printed in pla (as i don't have other fillament by now, and i will tell you how long they last ;D )

I actually have mine printed in PLA as well, but its not recommended, if printing higher temp materials it may cause issues.
I used a PLA Diiicooler for several months previously without an issue, until I started printing in PET-G :)

Which screws would I need for the i3 Plus?

To mount it, I would expect it to be 2 pcs M4x12 as it has the rear bearing blocks, but I cant verify since I dont have that printer myself. You'll need to thread the blocks yourself thought at the back.

No need to thread the blocks.

Thanks i'll give it a go! :)

I just printed this and it works FANTASTIC!. I have noticed however that my temperature reading is about 5-8 degrees lower when the fan is on (I usually print Hatchbox PLA at 210C, and with the fan on, it reads 202-205C). I just recently swapped from my 40mm cobra fan to this print with a 50mm blower Any suggestions on fan Cura settings?

Have you enabled PID as your heatmanager, and performed a PID tuning at your preferred fan speed?
Please also note that you barely ever need to be running your fan at more than 50%, the radial fan at 50% can put out a lot of more air than a stock 40mm fan can at 100%, I think Cura defaults to 50% as well unless layer time is below set threshold.

what speed and temperature do you usually run at, Pawpawpaw85?

made a test model i pla and ust it to print one on petg a it works dame nice now :D
V2,1
going to test more now i got it in petg

Thx man for the nice work :D

Thank you. Please hold on printing it again in PET-G.
I'm working on an update that should be ready in a few hours :)

Super im redy to test it im petg :) and mack the new on :)

CiiiCooler_1-31.STL and CiiiCooler_SHORT_1-31.STL are now available to print, should center the hotend better on the cooler

printing it now :)

Il test print it in the morning and let you no :)

Great so see a better version of the Diiicooler. The bad view on the nozzle (and the hassle when changing the nozzle) was the main reason why I didn't use it - but now it's about time to try that out. BTW: I see you're still using a noctua fan for cooling the filament (like I did) - don't you have problems with it? I recently changed it for a stronger fan because I found out it's too weak and was causing unsteady filament flow (which also produced bad perimeters like I can see on your picture of the green Ciiicooler). And it looks like at least another person had that problem too:
http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/topic:10725#comment-1146576

As written in the description, the DiiiCooler is still a better cooler, but CiiiCooler a good alternative if wanting to see the nozzle ;).
No problem at all using the Noctua to cool the coldend of the extruder, by my machine is one of the first V1.0 available. I think they later on changed motors and didnt change driver settings so extruder motor (and the others) were driven with too much current causing them to overheat.
The unstable filament flow I got going is likely due to bad quality filament (Market as PLA but wouldnt be supriced if it's a PLA/ABS mix, it's just a super cheap filament I'm trying to use up, if I change to the brand I usually use, the problem goes away.
I guess the combo of cheap bad quality filament and weaker coldend cooling can cause issues, but no issues with higher quality filaments for me at least :)

Ah, ok - so maybe it was a combination of less airflow and hotter extruder motor in my case (on the V2.1).

BTW I'm currently also using up a roll of a suspicious roll of PLA filament that was pretty cheap but smells and warps more than common PLA - also it needs a bump in temperature of about +10°C. I was suspecting a PLA/ABS mix as well... on the other hand: diameter is quite constant and prints turn out usable. So I'm ok for 12€/kg.

I'll see now if increasing cold end cooling can help with the cheap filament.
Put together a fan shroud to replace the axial fan, with a radial fan and get a lot more cooling going on.
http://i.imgur.com/kkCoMRu.jpg

Nice one again. I only wonder if a blower from that direction will utilize the hole in the heatsink as well as an axial fan... but I guess you've simulated that one anyway (or designed some air-guidance over the hole?).

Got more airflow through the opening than I think the axial fan can provide as well: http://i.imgur.com/1F4kRF3.png
There may have been some minor increase in quality but not perfect still, I think it's the filament responsible for most of the defects.

Impressive work again. May I ask what program/solver you are using for your simulation? Are you also simulating thermal+flow or is it just flow? I have to work with Nastran and ESC on NX but keep running into issues all day long... perhaps I'll use one of your coolers for some training one day.

Tested in PLA: it deforms because of the heated bed, and it scrapes on the print. PLA is definitely not a good choice.

I've also made a support for the carrier on the Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus (ne the same wiring than the V2.1): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050157

Thanks for the design !

Carrier support for Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus - for CiiCooler
by jcheger

Added it now to the description, thanks!

Another great model! Really, your designs are elegant and perform great. Which cooler, the Diii or Ciii, do you think would perform better on bridging? Would love to see a simulation on this cooler, at your convenience of course. Thanks for sharing your creations.

I would expect the DiiiCooler to perform slightly better as it got coverage all around, depending of course on your part being printed. I'm not sure you'll notice a difference on bridges, since you're able to provide air to cool from underneath as well. Overhangs of high degree I've found more challenging and where one can notice a big difference between coolers.
And here's a pic of the airflow: http://i.imgur.com/ZzWteVJ.png http://i.imgur.com/as84ZYq.png

pawpawpaw85, this is the Malyan M150's print head. Any ideas on how i could mount this?
I would really like to use this style fan

http://i.imgur.com/kYK5qvD.jpg

Print some new bearing blocks or even just one bearing block for the bottom X axis bearing

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1172838

Bearing blocks for standard 8mm linear bearings (Wanhao duplicator i3).

That's a great idea! Thank you for posting this to help him :)

No worries, I've actually just finished printing some for myself so I'm able to use your sweet-looking cooler. I'll get some pics added to the 'made' section when I get it all installed tomorrow! Thanks for sharing your designs!

Great to hear, let me know how the installation works with those!
By the way, make sure on the printed bearing blocks, that the mating surface from the cooler is smooth and correct geometry; A small change from perfect dimension gets multiplied along the length of the cooler and can make the deviation quite large at the end of the cooler. Good luck! :)

I did notice the geometry is off very slightly when testing fit. The angle on the back of the bearing block will need a little adjustment to ensure perfect fit.

Unfortunately I dont know, I dont think a rearmounted cooler works with that printer?
Someone did make an adapter for the DiiiCooler thought for that printer: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1561061

DiiiCooler Adapter Malyan M150

i have the new v 2.1 do i need a new fan or i can use the stock one?

Hello. This cooler was developed to be using the suggested radial 50mm fan for best performance.
You can use it with the stock fan if you download an adapter from the DiiiCooler, but it will not perform as good as it should/can.

Quick question, instead of tapping new threads in order to mount this cooler could I just buy extra long screws and thread them from the other side? It appears there is enough of a gap back there to allow the head of the screw to fit. Or are there no threads in those holes in the back?

Is your machine V1.0, V2.0, V2.1 or PLUS model? (V2.1 has plastic bearing holders where tapping is not needed)
You have to check yourself if there is already threads in your bearing holder, but if you got a V1.0, V2.0 or PLUS, the thread should only be a short distance into the bearing holder from the front and not all the way through to the back.

I am about to sound really dumb, I think I have the v2.1 but I'm not sure. Thank you for your help!

Then you should be fine with printing the CiiiCooler, the adapter and using M4x25 screws from the back :)

Thank you, hope the cooler will serve you well :)

Comments deleted.

Thanks for uploading the short version! Gonna test it out now. :)
Comparison photos (virtual, not printed photos): http://imgur.com/a/GKlQI

Dark blue is the short version, light blue is the original version.

I hope this will work for you if the standard does not, let us know :)

I have the file for the version with a 2mm shorter mounting stem. Cost me $5 on Fiverr and had it back within the hour. Printed it and it fits perfectly. Let me know; you're welcome to the file in case anyone else would like it. I won't even gratuitously slam you on Facebook.....
Cheers.

upload it as a remix

I've never done that, don't know how, and don't want to run afoul of certain thin-skinned "designers". When I get some time to figure it out.....

Comments deleted.

Trying to install this - either I'm doing something wrong or I'm missing something. The side of my bearing blocks I'm trying to screw into aren't threaded and are slightly smaller than the M4 screws. The screws fit perfectly in the other side of the bearing block. I have the v2.0. Anyone else have to bore out the holes more? Excited to try this, been using the Diii since I got the machine, and this fixes both issues I have with it.

Yes for V1.0 and V2.0 printers, you do need to tap it M4 threads at the back of the bearing block, this goes for all the rear-mounted coolers for the Duplicator i3 unfortunately.
Just write a comment if needing any more help, hope it works out well for you!

OK good I wasn't doing something wrong haha. Just ordered some taps, will give this a shot Thursday.

Cool Remix of the Diii. You addressed my major complaint of the Diii, the lack of visibility. Im currently using the thorped cooler but im really considering giving this a try

If you try it let us know how it works out.
(It's not a remix of the DiiiCooler though, they work on different airflow principles :) )

Comments deleted.

Guys you might have to lossen grub screw and lower hotend. This is a simple 5 minute job. Here is a picture of my v2.1 with microswiss. The hotend at the start of the bevel is flush with the cooling block. This should be around .7mm sticking past the cooling block. This should give you enough clearance so the nozzle sticks below the cooler.I know my stock hotend tube was pretty high above the cooling block. http://imgur.com/a/vAice http://imgur.com/a/4OVak

I made one for my 2.1 (with the adapter), and one problem is that the bottom of the cooler is completely level with the nozzle and the cooler would rub against the print in progress. I was able to work around this by lowering the hotend tube in the cooling block by about 0.5 mm. I don't think this will cause any problems, but it does not quite follow the installation instructions for the Micro Swiss hotend.

That's strange. I too have the MicroSwiss nozzle and have followed the instruction, and my nozzle is ~2mm further down than the cooler.
Perhaps Microswiss too have changed something, my printer is V1.0 and Microswiss was one of the first they released for sale.
For most people it does seem to fit just fine right away, so perhaps it's something Wanhao inconsistently do with the printers during assembly?

Maybe, but I don't see a lot of places where assembly could come into play. I loosened all the screws holding the bracket to the bearings and made sure the bracket was as far down as possible when tightening and this may have given me slightly more space, but with that and the hotend adjustment I am maybe at 1 mm total spacing, which seems to be enough.

I would guess differences are either caused by the MS hotend + block combo or variations/changes in the Wanhao bracket.

Oh they may have changed the hotend design then. I can adjust my Microswiss hot +/-5mm up and down without problem.
Is the heatbreak a part of the cooling block nowadays?

No, the heat break is below the cooling block. Unless I am mistaken, the whole point is to transfer minimal heat from the heating part to the cooling part, right, so it has to be between to work well.

This is a picture of how it looks. It is taken with phone through loupe, so there is some distortion: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx8f5DgLIr0mbVRsN21qTVIxckk

I guess mine is now about 0.5 mm lower down than recommended, but as I said, I don't expect there to be any real trouble with that.

I have the microswiss and I have the hotend lowered to the bevel on the hotend tube which I'm pretty sure is .7mm which is what microswiss recommends. Here ihcroswisss a picture of my cooler and the hotend. http://imgur.com/a/vAice

I followed the instructions linked to from here: http://www.micro-swiss.com/support

They specify that the tube should extend 1.7 mm on the top of the cooling block.

I don't think it would be a problem to have slightly less though.

You are right im sorry it is 1.7 thought it was .7. Anyway that still should be at the bevel of the hotend tube. Wonder if your bracket is bent down alittle

Kanske lättare på svenska nu när jag noterat att ditt namn är på svenska :)
Det ser ut som att positionen av heatbreaken är precis som på min printer nu.
Jag tror inte att det påverkar printern att röra den lite upp och ner lite dock, finns andra faktorer som borde påverka mycket mer än det som t.ex. rumstemperaturen.

Har du kollat om din "extruder bracket" är 90 grader? T.o.m Wanhao själva har ju erkänt att de skickar ut printerna utan att ens kontrollera om dessa är rättböjda och jag lagt upp video hur man själv kan vinkla om dem.

Jag kommer lägga up variant som är lite kortare men kan ej ändra i filerna just nu eftersom jag inte har tillgång till programvaran.

Har inte kollat bracketen, men den ser inte uppenbart orak ut i alla fall. Printar nu, så jag kan inte göra några noggrannare tester för tillfället! :)

Hur som helst så funkar det utmärkt som det är, så jag lär inte printa någon ny version i första taget. Tar massa tid att printa (får ingen ordning på PETG om jag inte printar superlångsamt) och är pilligt att installera etc.

LOVE the concept...printed it, and mounted it, but it hits the bed BEFORE my nozzle and I don't see any "adjustment" I can use to fix that. It seems the solution is to shorten the support bracket? ps. I have i3 V. 2.0 (same bearing blocks in the pic). Seems to fit and mount to the bearing blocks perfectly....and even if you try to drill out the lower margins of the mounting holes, the top of the mounting bracket still hits the bearing block and so you can't really adjust/move it up. It's not off my much....just a couple mm would do, I think...

Do you have any picture of it and your heatblock possition? It seems the ones that have it this way has the heatblock mounted very high up on the bracket.

how can I send you a picture? My heater block is mounted directly under/next to the bracket. Cooling block above, and heater block below the bracket. I had to take the Cii off...back to Thorped, until I can get this figured out, but would be happy to send you a pic.....

You cant directly send a picture, try uploading it to imgur for example and post link here. Might be Thorpeds is just higher up if modeled to such a part, but not certain.

That looks like the heaterblock is very high up compared to mine and many others.
Have you tried lowering the heating block?

Not sure I can, or how. I have the MicroSwiss all metal hot end; heater block is directly below and touching the bracket, and the cooling block is just above and the metal filament tube basically connects the two. The thought just occurred to me; is there such a thing as having the cooling block upside down? It works fine this way...but would that even lower the heater block (on the lower side of the bracket)?

On my microswiss, I can adjust the position of the heatblock by +/-5mm in height. Have they changed so it's not possible to adjust the hight anymore?
Also the heatblock should not be close to the bracket i think? On my machine from wanhao it was approximately 2-3mm clearance above the heatblock to the bracket.

oh my word....I give up.
How hard can it be to remix it and take 2 mm out of the stem that attaches to the bearing block?? Really???

O my word how hard is it to loosen grub screw on hotend and lower the hotend. This is far faster then him making a remix because you are incapable of turning a screw. here's mine on. V2.1 with microswiss. http://imgur.com/a/vAice

I dont have access to the application right now needed to modify the files in which the item was created.
It's 100% impossible for me right now to do it on original files, that's how hard it is.
It likely takes you less time for you to fix your hotend height.

If you're so eager to get it fixed filewise, download meshmixer right now and edit it for yourself then.
Or just use another cooler if you're not satisfied with this one.

I have created this item since it has features others are lacking and people asked for it.
I dont even use this cooler myself since I'm using the better DiiiCooler, I did this upon request from the community spending weeks performing flow analysis and the last week getting it working on printers I dont even owe myself so that others can use it as well.
If you're not satisfied of the FREE "Work in progress" item that you pay nothing for, at least fix it yourself first before sending these types of comments.

With that attitude of yours, I will be helping you no more sir.
You've ruined my mood this sunday...thank you.

calpeters is a dick just ignore him
he trolled my creation to
read the comment from him
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1273603/#comments

printable Z braces for Wanhao i3
by MrBlom

Thanks MrBlom, it does appear to be a troll indeed, such rude comments you got!

The m4x35 screws for the 2.1 are way too long and won't properly secure the adapter and cooler. I'd say probably m4x25 might do the trick. The picture is with the screws all the way in.
http://i.imgur.com/qfVqbuV.jpg

edit: Yes, after some testing, it looks like 25mm length is the answer
http://i.imgur.com/yAuV5ig.jpg

Besides that, I just wanted to say thanks for the awesome work! :)

Are the LMU bearings on the V2.1 longer than the ones on V2?

They seem to be, yes.

Oh I do apologize, that's indeed a typo. It's supposed to be M4x25 but must have mistyped it!
Do the cooler fit your machine well now with the shorter screws then?

No worries, simple fix. It secures well, but the back of the cooler is just the tiniest bit lower than the front. I know this because it knocked off one of the supports for a print I was making, lol. I'm probably going to sand/file down the lower part of the mounting adapter a tad so I can mount it slightly higher.

sorry post on Diii :(

http://imgur.com/a/sDXJj
her you se my new V2.1
it is to low

Is your extruder bracket 90 degree or is it overbent like 95 degrees? Is the cooler parallell to the heatbed?
If bracket is 90 degrees and cooler is parallell to heatbed then you may need to drop the nozzle position to under the cooler.

Comments deleted.

loosen up your hot end and drop it down alittle

I have a suggestion

Can you make the sacrifice loss of viewing area less than 60 degrees..
Do we really need 60 degree viewing area?

We can still view the nozzle if the viewing area was much less than 60 degrees, as long as it doesn't block the nozzle..
And it will benefit with more cooling field than 300 degrees

Here's sample mockup I have made,

http://i.imgur.com/tQokDoT.png

as you can see, we can still view the nozzle printing the first layer..
and since the nozzle is constantly moving, a smaller viewing angle is perfectly fine..

I am guessing the viewing angle is now 10 to 15 degrees instead of 60 degrees..

So now the cooling field is very close to 360 degree (probably 350 to 345 degree) cooling like the original diicooler,
but has a much better viewing area than the diicooler..

The Diii and Ciii coolers work on two completely different flow principles. A 360 degree CiiiCooler will still not be as good as a DiiiCooler.
I have optimized the CiiiCooler to have as large of a view angle as possible without sacrificing the performance that the principle works on, reducing the view angle wont make much of a difference (and without re-optimizing the flowpath entirely it will actually make it worse since it will make the airflow uneven)

Even changing the Ciii to 360 degrees still wont make it as good as the DiiiCooler, again since the principles are different where the DiiiCooler principle is more efficient both in pressure drop performance and airflow performance around the nozzle, but the principle the DiiiCooler works on only works for 360 degree fan shrouds.

If I have a V2, with a 2.1 upgrade kit (bearing block) which version do I print and which screws do I need?

How does the airflow compared to diicooler?

Would diicooler be better (in terms of better printy quality) even though you lose visibility?

All your questions are answered in the description already... (Again, please read description, 3rd time I'm asking you (twice in DiiiCooler section as well))
Obviously you'd need the V2.1 adapter if you use V2.1 bearing block as described in the description.. Airflow is as described in the description not as good as DiiiCooler. DiiiCooler will be better as described in the description.

Yes, I read the front description already..about 2.1 and v2 etc..
It is the exact same info you wrote in the diicooler page....
It was pretty much copy and paste the same description..

Maybe because of that fact, I might have quickly read it and missed the introduction.

I am still on a V2, but planning to get V2.1 upgrade kit..
I have not printed these coolers yet, so sure how they are actually mounted..
I only ask this question because I wanted clarification before printing anything...

Maybe you should have added a note, which would have made it more clear in the description

[ATTENTION V2.1 OWNERS] (including 2.1 upgrade kit owners)
You will need to print the adapter named CiiiCooler_Adapter_V2-1 to be able to mount this cooler to Wanhao's latest V2.1 bearing holders.

===

yes, air flow would be less than diicooler
you can obviously see that, since a part is cut out of this cooler vs 360 cooling of the diicooler..

but it does not tell you how it actually affects the print quality
if there is any noticeable difference in print quality when you lose 60 degrees of cooling

I was looking for some actual photo comparison and print results of the two coolers
like the one you did for diicooler vs stock etc..

If there is no noticeable difference in print quality results, then we might as well print this
since we can now see the nozzle..

This was the answer I was after but is not provided in the description.

===

Also with regards to you telling me twice to read the description in the diicooler section,
The first question was answered in the description but ..not the second question..

The second question I asked was not provided in the description..
It was in regards to whether we can use a 5V fan, cos I have seen a few on ebay etc..

The performance will be less than DiiiCooler, but more even flow around the nozzle than a Cobra or Thorped. I have only done simulations to verify this since I havnt had time to make a cooling performance test. But have verified the flowpath of the cooler is according to simulation on an actual printed CiiiCooler.
If you do try the different coolers I do encourage you to try it out yourself if you wish to see if it affects your prints, it's very time consuming task to make such tests, something I dont have time to do at the moment.
(You need to print several test parts, all at different orientation around the hotend to see how a rotational angle affects the print quality, and you will need to try different temperatures etc. I at least ~50 hours on it on the DiiiCooler to get results I could compare fairly, I do not have the time for that now.

Please note that this item as still a "Work in progress" file and I may add comparison later on if I have time to do so.
This file will likely change more over the coming weeks and have already uploaded 4 revisions so far with improvements in just a few days.

Once Im fully satisfied to release this part, I may do such a test but until I consider it fully finished it's a waste of time.

Comments deleted.

I've had issues finding a cooler with a flexion extruder, anyone with one given this a go?

Does the Flexion change the nozzle position? If not it should work fine, if it does then I have no clue :)

I was able get this working after I increased the height of the mounting holes with the flexion and wow what a difference this made!

http://imgur.com/mZHe21z
http://imgur.com/gUPvpQL

Great to hear it worked well! You can remove the stock cooler thought, it wont be of help when using the CiiiCooler, and will allow you to get a good view of the nozzle :)

printing this to test on my new v2,1 thx m8 :)

I hope you'll find it useful!
If you can, please do share your experience with it when mounting, if everything works well or if there's any issues that you find. I cant verify the fit myself for the V2.1

back. it is to low my nossel dont com under it :/

hov do i upload a pix of it?

you could use a service such as imgur.com
How far above the cooler is the tip of the nozzle?

It's a bit difficult to see, but can you see if the cooler tilts foward or backwards, or is it just too low and still parallell to the bed?

Dit a new test fit and it is not under but super clos.
Going to mack a test run on the pla test print i made later to Day :)

You get mm later it is working on a other print now :)

this isn't exactly centered for me - should it be?

also, it hits the bed..might be because I'm using the wrong screws honestly.

Yes should be centered. What model of the printer do you have? The cooler can be adjusted sideways.
Can you show pictures of the misalignment?

V2. And sure I'll do that in the next few days. Honestly I possibly messed something up.

I woudlnt be sure its your fault, Wanhao regularly mounts things wrongly too hehe

After looking again, I'm fairly sure it is my mounting job, I can't find m4 screws anywhere, my local hardware store doesn't carry them.

My local Lowes (GA-USA) carries a good assortment of metric hardware.

The space for the v2.1 didn't fit for me. I had to create spacers that were 3mm thick to get the screws to go threw the bearing holders threads. I'm using 30mm long screws. Idk if something is wrong on my printer but I'm ready to try out your newest design!

Oh, you mean its 3mm too short? Can you upload a picture to show perhaps?
Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Here http://imgur.com/a/10zEh

Yea the spacer needs to be ~3mm longer where the screws go. I used some broken parts from an old print that was 3mm thick. The white pieces are the spacers and if you need more pictures, just ask.

Oh you mean with 2 pcs M4x35 they were 3 mm too long?

Thorped's V2.1 spacers seem to work perfectly with this cooling mod. I'll post a make once I finish printing the last pieces

You have a link to those spacers? Can't seem to find it with the search.

The spacer for the Thorped cooler is here - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1650495.

Di3 v2.1 Spacer for Thorped's Fan Duct

There is a spacer now especially made to fit this cooler :)

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Currently using the Diii but really prefer both the back mounting and the visibility of the Thorped cooler. Printing it out now. Thanks!

Awesome! Thanks man, this is exactly what I was looking for.

Hope it will work well for you and thanks for taking the time to write a comment :)
Let me know if there's any issues you find too

How do I mount this on my I3 Plus ? ...

I made an adapter to relocate the wiring harness so this will work on the plus: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010927

Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Wiring Bracket

It's not made for the PLUS, currently will only work with V1.0, V2.0 and V2.1. Plus is too different to get it to work right now.

Awesome work! Can't wait to try this out!

Yes! Kudos on the fast publication!
I'll be printing this tonight in PETG.

Comments deleted.

Will the adapters for your Diiicooler fit the Ciiicooler?

Yes, they do fit perfectly :)