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Athanasus

Anet A6 : Auto Leveling bed AND Cable chain !

by Athanasus Dec 30, 2016
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What is the X and Y offset fot the sensor?

All informations Can be found in 'configuration.h 'file

I overlooked the Configuration.h file, sorry for that.
I found all I need, thanks!

U'r welcome :-)

if you go to aliexpress and look for "proximity sensor" you will find 18mm, 12mm and 8mm versions of the same sensor with a far better price too ($1.7-2.50 shipping incl.).
The thin metal case can be removed (very carefully) - the whole electronics are encapsuled in epoxi and so will not add any weight to the head.
I have used them as speed sensor for my lathe.

Any chance you can upload a version without the text? It creates extra complexity with no benefit. Using Cura as a slicer and choosing to add support everywhere adds supports beneath the raised text such as the text on the "out end". I also prefer un-branded prints. Otherwise this is a great design!

maybe change your title to chain and auto leveling.
personally i almost skipt it because of the auto leveling in front of the name

What can i do if the writing is not visible?

What do you call "the writing" ? I don't get it...
If you mean the "by NIM" or "V2.0" wrote on cable chain part, that's not really matter if part are fonctional, no ? ;-)
If u can't see V2.0 un the upper part, that's obvious that you're extruding too much plastic or have real calibration troubles.
This link seems rational for calibrating (untested but seem good), for information : http://print.theporto.com/posts/how-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer-for-accurate-printing/

Thats what i mean. The lower side is usually Mirror like and the upper side looks like a mess due to the writing (i wrote it again). The part is functional but does not look nice at the top. Im currently at the Process of inverting the Writing (did it again) on the top. Instead of the letters facing to the inside they are sticking out 1 mm. I hope thats ok for you?

I just change the design so all "writing" ;-) are on the bottom of cable chains => Hope you will have less mess on top.... But It souldn't (did I talk about calibration? ;-D

Regards !

The rest of the Print comes out nice but the Top really looks messy. What nozzle are you using? I'm using a .4mm nozzle. Is that the problem, or is there another setting i'm missing?
For example, the Part that mounts to the Frame looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/nOEfd
The Leftovers from the support are my own fault since i set the distance to 0.1mm and it welded to the Part. Since there are Cables in the Chain later, i did not see any reason to print it again.
I'm printing ABS btw.

Hi again,
I just had a look on your link, http://imgur.com/a/nOEfd, and I confirm that (I really really think) you do extrude too much plastic (there is many "too much flow" stripes on top of your part, upper thin wall (with holes) have a really fat look) -> try turn multiplier to 0.9 in Simplify3d or set 90% on extruder in Cura, at least... Too much extrusion doesn't mean stronger parts... And at the end, I won't say it again, but CALIBRATE your printer !! That is not lost time, just the way to (almost) sucessfully print on first time any (well designed) parts. Of course, it doesn't really matter for printing Yoda head, but even Yoda will look better this way !! ;-)

I know that with the extrusion. Normally my extrusion width is set to .4 in SF3D and i have calibrated the Extruder to extrude an exact amount. 100mm prompted = 100mm extruded. The Speed is set to 35-40mm/s (2100-2400mm/min) and the retraction to 3mm at 50mm/s (SF3D standard and the value where oozing is nearly eliminated).I'm using 2 perimeter lines. Each Part prints around 20 Minutes. With turning down the multiplier to .9 i had issues with slight underextrusion and holes in the print. I just got a new Roll loaded (the old one most probably needs to be freed from moisture again), got the Nozzle replaced with a new one, built a moisture protected storage box and checked everything regarding extrusion and nozzle settings. Is there any Setting in particular i need to take care of? Do you use gap fill? It's found under the Advanced tab. Maybe this Setting is the Reason for the "fat" looking clips.

My part, 0.4 Nozzle is Ok. No troubles printing top. => If your top is messy, check filament retract, print thickness (often 1.2 x Nozzle size), fillin too tight, reduce speed for top/bottom... If your printer work for other parts, it's probably a miss in parametrics when slicing... No more Idea.

With new design I just uploaded for Cable Chain left and right, you should succeed !

Good luck !

Problem has been fixed. I dried the Fialment for 6 hours in the oven again and it printed wonderfully. Apparently i had too much moisture in it.

Hi everybody,

As some of you have troubles printing Cable Chain, some advice :

  • First I uploaded a picture to show the right position to print the cable chain on the bed, Red arrows show where to add supports. I used to slice parts with Simplify3D, so I can add support manually.
  • Each part need a cleaning when removing supports (you have to remove support...), an easy way is to use a small pliers who have little tooth to clamp and turn to rub the ergo, so two parts will freely move when mounted (at least on ergo/hole join). If flat areas rub eachother when mounting two part, see next point.
  • Second, your printer had to be well calibrated. If not, there might won't be enough space between parts to move freely, or holes/ergo wont't be really circular.
  • Third, if you don't have circular holes/ergo while printing, try to print a 0.1 thin layer despite 0.2, it helps to have a circle arc despite a line when the +1 layer external part is "outside" the current layer (not sure i'm clear on this part... Not my natural language, sorry ;-))

Ok, if you successfully print two part (left+right) and successfully assembled them (they must move freely), so you can print 12 part at once.

I think that the most important part is the printer calibration : Don't expect to have working mechanical parts printed without having calibration. It's true for all kind of machines used to make mechanical parts.

I hope it will help !

Regards,

Is it intended that the Writing can not be printed properly?

How print the Chain Pieces?

Im also having issues, but im trying some things out. If i find something useful i let you know.

Comments deleted.

Any suggestion on printing the cable chain? I have been trying it for the past 2 weeks, I just can not get it to print correctly. I was trying to print 12 pieces at a time but I will always found out my print turns into a big mess the next day. I tried multiple things include add auto leveling, use PEI bed, tension all the belt, use insane low speed. Nothing works. Should I try to print this vertically like the orientation showed in pictures? Is there anything else that might help me a little bit? thanks!

Can i print in pla or is it to hot!!

Hello I am toooo stupid. Can you make one mount for a bl touch sensor pls. I have no Chance to redesign it. Pls greetings from austria

Hi,
If you're not confident (re)desining things, maybe it's better to still training without modifying your printer, avoiding unnecessary troubles ? This is my advice !!
Regards from France !

Hello: First printer A6. I have been looking everywhere and can not find a thing. I get this error exit status 1 'X_MIN_POS' was not declared in this scope. Any idea? Thank You

See Anet3D Facebook page for this kind of trouble I think (bad config maybe ? Be sure to well read Marlin firmware configuration ?)
Good luck !!
Regards

Hello

Good part of what you would have synonymous geraut autolevel with my A6 retrofit unfortunately I am still very inexperienced with 3d printers you can tell me where I get the firmware so auto level works and maybe even a manual

thanks again

My advice will be : practice and learn. Once confident, u will be able to manage these things. Auto bed leveling is not needed to print stuff !!
Anyway, all usefull and needed links are in the summary. I don't have any other to provide.
Regards

Hi,

You can find firmware and instructions here : https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/
Current version is 2.3.1, you will find detailed manual in the zip file.

Good luck ;-)