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Anet A8 Power Switch (minimal material)

by Elizabwth Dec 28, 2016
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Thank you for sharing.It doesn't fit as well on my Anet A8 recently bought. It's to wide and the two screw holes on the right side are to low. the support inside also hits the power supply. Pitty indeed as I like the design as well.

I just have a question. I recently bought the etopxizu 30A power supply. I live in the U.S. so I have it running at 110v, plugged into my bedroom outlet which is also 110v. All of these switches I see you guys using are 220-250v switches. Is it okay or safe to use this switch on a 110v power supply? This is the switch I wanted: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNMT3WL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Y736KGZ14HTQ&psc=1

I'm also in the US and running an almost identical plug on 110v. I just checked my switch to make sure and it is rated for 220v. I believe that means it can take up to the numbers on the fuse. Just make sure you get a fuse that can handle the current you'll be putting through it. the 5A fuse it comes with will blow long before your power supply will start getting strained. I would suggest looking into a 10A fuse if you're doing ABS and need the higher temps. I do PLA and have not had any power issues or blown a fuse yet (199c end and 50c heat bed, not sure on my total amps).

Can I ask what your grounding wire is attached to? I can't tell where it's going from the pictures. Thanks!

I dont understand the switch only being 10A, doesnt this PSU pull alot more than that, even if you are using a mosfet for the heated bed? Assuming you have an upgraded PSU as well wouldnt you need a 30A switch?

You might be thinking of the 12V rail, which will pull roughly 16A, possibly 20 with the MOSFET.

The 120V supply will never exceed 5A, unless you're using a 120V hotbed. At 5A, 120V provides 600W, my Anet A8 pulls about 250W when heating up.

Printing v5 now as is. Has anyone tried rotating this model? Seems it would need less support (and thus less waste) by doing so.

Could you make a new one of these? The lip crashes into the base of the PSU on the mid-2017 model.

Will the switch you link to work with 110-120V input?

I believe so, yes.

Doesn't fit my A8, bought in May 2017. Also, the cutout for the socket/switch module is too small.

Pity, because I liked the look of it.

I was also really excited, it looks nice. Shame.

yeah they changed the PSU

Sorry if I'm missing it somewhere but could you tell me the rectangular hole size for the outlet/switch?
Looks really nice!!

Hi! The measurements for the hole are 48mm x 28mm. The distance to the screw holes are 6mm and the hole radius is 1.75mm.

Thank you for the quick reply!!!

Can you confirm if this item works with the "NEW" Anet A8, having 110x51mm dimensions ?
This one seems to measure 104x48mm. If so, it will not fit with new power supply.


The dimensions are 110mm with a depth of 50mm.

I knew my printer was going to need a power switch as soon as I finished setting it up. This works great! I definitely recommend printing the side support as well.

This also works for the A6, but you have to shorten the bottom foot and cut off the side foot entirely.

Maybe you would consider doing a modification if I sent you the dimensions for the bottom foot?

Thanks Elizabwth!

Sounds great, I'd love to do a modification. Feel free to send them over!

How do you get the wires to fit? When I try to put the switch plate onto the power supply, the quick connect terminals on the switch crash right into the fork terminals connected to the power supply. It seems like the switch needs to be shifted down 10mm so that the wires have room.

Beautiful ! but... beware of the fuse you are using !!!

I made one yesterday. I love it. It's really light, quick to print, and effective. Very well done, indeed !
However, I am a bit puzzled by the current rate of the fuse of your choice. As far as I understood, you are using a 10A fuse, which in my opinion is far too high! If something goes wrong, and there is an excessive current absorption, before the fuse blows, the printer would be melting.
In my view, considering that the Anet S-240-12 PSU is a 240 Watt device, a 3A fuse (or even 2.5A) should be more than enough (in Europe, a 1.5A should be ok).
I made this simple calculation:
240 (W) / 120 (V) / 0.8 (worst case Power factor) = 2.5 (A) [240 (W) /230 (V) / 0.8 = 1.3 (A) in Europe]
When choosing a fuse, we should consider its speed as well. I'd go for a standard one (it will require twice its rated current to open in one second).
Last but not least, the voltage rating of the fuse must be equal to or, greater than the mains voltage (i.e. in the US it should be rated 120V, as a minimum! better if 250V).
Bottom line: currently I am using a 3A, standard speed, 250V fuse.
I have not printed anything in ABS, though... (which is a more stressing activity, than printing PLA). It should work. If it trips without any apparent reason, I will let you know. Also, I am planning to do some experiments with lower current rated (2.5A, for instance) and faster blowing fuses. The general idea is that we should be using the lowest current rated fuse that supports our printing job, in normal conditions.
If you disagree with my arguments, I'm happy to receive comments ;-)

I'm really glad you brought this up. To be honest, the fuse I have in the switch is rated much higher than the suggested amount. I grabbed whatever fuse could fit from my junk drawer. The switch was chosen based purely on robustness and price. It's been a concern since I started this project but figured the fuse in my power strip or cable itself would blow before it reached the switch itself.

I'm really glad you did the calculations. If you don't mind, I'd love it if you made a quick summary of your findings that I could post and attribute to you in the part's description. Many makers going into this project would appreciate your findings.

Thanks a bunch!

Edit: I'm not sure why your comment has been flagged. It's very informative. If the flag isn't removed tomorrow, I'll contact someone.

UPDATE: March 28, 2017

T 2.5A fuse tested, printing ABS: it works fine
I have installed a 2.5A fuse, slow (T) [i.e.: with time-delay], 250V
It works perfectly !
I just printed two ABS Filament Test Cubes (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166102) in a row, with one hour of pre-heating, and 40 minutes of ABS printing overall. The fuse did not blow.
I'll keep this lower current rated fuse, for now.

Filament Test Cube
by sch00f
Comments deleted.

Worked great for me. Thanks.

Made one this evening, may be worth noting that the switches do not take a standard UK fuse. I had to bypass it by soldering a wire in the back. The plug has its own fuse so should be okay

Thanks for the feedback! Would you mind posting a wiring diagram for those in the UK? It'd be very helpful for those in the UK. I'd include it in the description as well as credits to you.

hi just made this. its well cool

Glad you like it!

Nice design of the cover, but it only fastens on one side? Check out my complimentary solution here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2087889

Anet A8 Power Supply Cover Fastener

Pls can you help me? I have a power supply have lenght 113,33 mm but original " Anet A8 Power Switch (minimal material) " have internal dimension of 112,00 mm. are you able to refit dimension of this file and transform original 112 into 113,33 ?


Unfortunately, I'm not sure I understand what your issue is other than your supplied PSU is not the same dimension. Were you able to figure this out? My suggestion would be to grind off the excess length of the print or to retrofit it yourself with the files I've included. Could I give you another filetype you could work with?

It seems that you printed a early version of the part, version 3. Notice that your part does not include the leg to support itself on the table (included in version 4 and 5) nor does it fit tightly enough to the left wall.

The goal of this project was create a power switch with minimal material and only single piece. A friction fit flange to the left side as well as supports to behind the PSU and on the surface it stands should be more than enough support. There's only fasteners on one side to keep it in place, as pressure will only be applied to the front of the part.

Thanks for your work on this but I think that there are too many tolerance differences between the printers and power supplies to rely on friction. The leg design also does not stop the cover from deflecting when unplugging the power cable or even just sitting at rest. Would be much better if you add a flange to the design to accommodate the screw that goes into the right sided motor mount. The support from the leg is in the wrong direction.

Understandable. I may work on a complimentary part based on your design in the future. For now, I'll edit the description to include your solution.

Edit: I added your thing to the description of the part with credits to you.

I tried the V5 version as you'd mentioned a tighter tolerance for friction fitting. I think you may have planned around ABS shrinkage. I printed it in PETG and it printed fantastically, although, it's kinda off and fairly loose. Not a problem but figured I'd give a heads up.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll mention it in the description.

I've tried to post in the I made one section. The first print I did just before making this comment made me question my calibration. I've re-done the part after calibration and it fits better, however, still a little loose so you can see what I'm talking about :)

BTW: I'm open to suggestions if it's something I'm doing wrong. :D

The connections are not correct

Electrically? The connections are OK as shown, provided they go to the correct terminals on the power supply (but that is not shown). Mine has the hot an neutral on different sides of the switch, but it doesn't really matter. The green is ground, black is hot, and those follow standard household wiring convention. The neutral (for 120V use) is usually white but maybe they didn't have white wire so used red instead. As long as they're going to the correct terminals on the power supply.

BTW, I made this but was unable to use it. My original power supply popped a cap shortly after the make, and I replaced with a 30A PS which is also a little larger physically. Thanks for the design though I do like it.

Thanks for explaining this, you are correct in the wiring.

If you post the dimensions and distances of your new PSU, I can attempt to make a modified version for yours.

Thanks for explaining this, you are correct in the wiring.

If you post the dimensions and distances of your new PSU, I can attempt to make a modified version for yours.

Thanks very much for the offer, but I ended up making this design, which used the same combo switch. It was already set up for the 30A PSU and adds a back plate because the mounting holes are a different pattern:


Anet A6 Power Supply Cover and Switch
by jadames
Comments deleted.

Nice...I like those type of switches, larger flanges so they cover the holes better