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BdejaN

Tiny Whoop Brushless

by BdejaN Dec 22, 2016
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I have printed the 40mm design to receive hardware from a fragile Aurora 68. I love your design and it fit together well (although tight) and seems a very strong frame. The 40mm unit could benefit from more beefy motor mounts I believe. I would love to work on them and also create a camera mount.

Would it be possible to get a copy of your .sldprt file for the 40mm unit to work on? I would of course forward to you any design updates I might arrive at.
My E-Mail is giffdoug49@gmail.com

Thanks for your good work and for sharing.

Doug Gifford

Is there a camera canopy that can fit this design?

It's great work Printing result is very Good

BTW Could you upload propeller guard style? I mean whole circle without connecting part

Hello and thanks for the good work!!!

do you mind sharing the .sldprt files? i want to make a version with 50mm inner diameter,

thanks!!

Hi,

I love this design, it is so clever, and perfect for indoor/outdoor fun! Thank you for all the time you've put into it.
I've made the 78mm version, and have installed BR1104's in it (just waiting for the FC and ESC to turn up, so it's not tested yet.)

It's all together and motors are installed, although some very minor tweaks were required:

  • The pieces snap together a bit too tight, I had to it push them in a vice which cracked one piece, and I certainly won't be able to replace just one quarter, it'll be all or nothing.
  • I had to drill new mounting holes for the motors to rotate them. They're 2mm round from the old ones
  • I also had to extend the wire exit slot from the motors by 1mm to accomodate the heatshrink coming from the motors. Without doing this the motors wouldn't sit flush with the base. (I guess I could have cut the heatshrink, but didn't want to for risk of breaking wires.

It was printed out of ABS at 0.1mm/0% infill

Hi, this is an awesome design.
Any change you could draw a 3" version for T-motor MT1306 motors?
I'll buy you a pint (or two) :-)

Sure no problem. I will upload it next week..

Awesome design. I printed 2 parts and found they were super tight. Is there anyway to get the file so i can adjust it

Awesome project. Tried to print on 2 different printers, tolerances are way too tight. Even after filing (which I hate doing, I'd rather mess with the model and make it work so it can be repeatable off the print plate for me) had to push so hard that everything cracked, plus it beats the whole idea of modular, these things will never come off. I'll probably try to hack your STLs, but it would be great perhaps if you would post a few versions with different tolerances, some more loose, some more tight, this way you'll please everyone. Anyway, thanks so much for sharing this "why don't they make all quads like this" idea. I will attempt to mount one of these: http://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-tinyfish-power-stack-f3-16x16mm-flight-controller-4a-4-in-1-esc-frsky-rx.html (it's an 18x18mm stack, so I'll have to adjust your holes, but it has all on board, FC, AIO ESC and FrSky RX). Curious how you mount your batteries.

Thanks :)

I can share step files.

Hi. Congratulations on this project, which is modular seems a wise move.

I am in the same situation as BobGarrett66, my machine is not quite accurate, the tests with model 78 and 53 have been a failure. I would like to ride these two models to take them on a trip.

Can I provide the SLDPRT or STEP file to try to adjust the tolerances of my machine?

A greeting and thanks for your work.

Sorry for the text and translation, I use an online translator. . .

Hi,

no problem i can send SLDPRT or STEP file.

Send me your mail and i will send it to you.

Thank you, I'll give you my private email.

What is the motor to motor distance for the 53mm version? Thanks!

Hi, around 85mm.

Comments deleted.

I really like the design. I've tried to print out the 53mm version but there's no getting the individual pieces to join together. My printer is usually dead on with tolerances so I'm not sure what might be the cause. Any idea what I might try. I've got a bunch of those RaceStar motors just waiting to go in this frame. I don't know what software you used to put this together but if they're Fusion 360 files and you'd be willing to part with them, I'd love to tweak it to work out for me to print up a frame.

Hi, you can always use file to send down the connection joints. It is designed in SolidWorks, if it helps, I can send SLDPRT or STEP files.

If you could post or send me the STEP files that would be great. Thank you and thanks again for such a unique design idea.

Bob

Hi Bob, can you give me your mail so i can send them to you :)

Great design. What is the best way or position to print it? In cura it shows up on its edge. Not much touching the printer bed.
Thanks

Thanks :). Motor mounts have to touch the print bed.

Hi BdejaN,

I also made 53mm version but the bridges of the motor mount are weak.
They seem easily broken due to motor vibration.
pictures are here (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:314837)
Could you increase thickness of the bridges and motor mount?

Thanks.

Tiny Whoop Brushless
by tjkim93

Hi,

Looks great :)

Recently I did not have time to make modifications to the frames. Will do so in next days.

Do you have any video of it flying? :)

Also which material did you print with?

Mine printed in ABS flexes really well even throwing it around does not break the strut.
(i use 0% infill and 0.2 resolution)

Hi,

Sorry for no video, the frame was broken at first flight.
It was printed with PLA (30% infill and 0.25 resolution)
Junction points between bridges and motor mount on 53mm version seem weak.
I found same broken point on another motor mount like below picture.
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/2a/80/88/fc/1a/8c7e6c32aec4ae4b85639d0065ae8444_preview_featured.jpg

Hello
The idea is very good, but the 50mm do not make 50mm inner, not suitable for 1930 Furious what damage

Hi Herisson. If you check description you will see inner duct diameters for each size. 53mm version should fit 1930 prop.

Hey there, I think your descriptions could be more clear about what prop size fits each size edition. This is clearly a genius design, btw, thanks for sharing!

Edit: just figured out that the sizes are prop sizes, not frame sizes. The 53mm is perfect for 2 inch props, like the dys or the aurora 90mm

In description, each frame has declared inner diameter. I do not have any of these small props so I went by info I got online or by requests here on Thingiverse or RCgroups. If you have a prop that does not fit any of the already designed frames, just make exact measurement of it and let me know - I will design proper size frame. Haven’t had time lately to work on these frames, I will start again this week so if you have any request or suggestion on how you would improve design please share :)

How do you go about mounting the camera on the 53mm? I have an eachine tx03

Will design 20x20mm mounts for different AIO cameras. If you can post exact measurements of tx03, I can include it in mount collection :)

I think this image provides enough information? https://img.rcgroups.com/http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/648924564.jpg?h=Wn2jTQW-RLZrUCL_Rtu4ZQ

Thanks for your design, looks great!

I don't have a micrometer for specific measurements but the factory specs says "20.66mm14.06mm6mm"

Comments deleted.

So I finally got around to building the 40mm version, and there is just too much weight. About 90% throttle is required to hover. I was wondering could the link points be shrunk? I know the inside wall needs to stay where it is for the FC mounting holes, but the outside wall could be brought in and everything thinned out (don't need such a large link since its so small/light). The link points could also be shrunk on top and bottom (doesn't need to scale the whole duct). The FC mounting holes would move up if the link is moved up, but that is fine since there is plenty of room inside already (I am using long nylon screws to get my FC just above to top for USB access). I think these modifications and 0% infill could bring the weight down quite a bit.

I already try to lighten 40mm version. Unfortunately not successfully. Lost about 5% if I can trust 3d Printer Calculator. Problem is that all versions are meant to be printed at 0% infill, but wall thickness is always the same. Shrinking duct connectors does not really help much.
Do you maybe have 0.3mm nozzle? If you do I can change wall thickness to 0.6mm.

Will anyway try your suggestions :)

How do you have access to the micro usb on the FC once it's mounted??

Good question :), unfortunately not possible on current design. Do not see how it could be done without making huge hole in one of the ducts (which would on the other hand defy one of the purpose for using ducts).

Any suggestions?

Could put the 20x20 mount points near the top, instead of the bottom. Could be low enough that the 4in1 esc & receiver are still inside the body, but the FC is just slightly above it so the USB could be accessed. Would of course be adjustable based on the spacers or nylon screws that are used.

Nice, i can make them with mounting holes higher up. As they are now they are easiest to print, if i move them up, supports will have to be used. If there is interest i will make the modification.

At the moment no other then a hole through one of the ducts like you said. I was really looking forward to building this one, already have it print out and the parts are coming. The only thing I can see at this point is mount the FC on the bottom then have a print a cover or have it high enough on the top...let me know if you can think of any other way.

An added bonus of the motor supports being thin is they seem like they will dampen vibration extremely well. Sort of how some people suspension mount their FC to mitigate vibrations. Both the angled and non-angled version seems like they will dampen well. Still waiting for my motors on the slow boat, but will be testing the 40mm frame as soon as they are in.

EDIT: The v2 50mm frame doesn't fit my 48mm props. The FC holes still line up, so I don't know that scaling it a small amount would be an option.

v2 has smaller inner diameter (48mm), to be used with DYS 2030 props which should be 47mm in diameter.

Your props are exactly 48mm? You should be fine with scaling. 1.02 scaling results in 48.98mm inner diameter.

Gap between props and duct will be small and duct effect will have greater results :)

If you have problems scaling, send me your mail and I will send you scaled files.
And if the prints don’t come out good in will make another version with 49mm inner diameter :)

It is the FuriousFPV 1935 props. It is odd the 1935's are slightly longer than the 2030 DYS's ones. I have a few pairs, going to just try and trim 1 set down with a nail clippers prop trimming contraption. If that doesn't work out I will give scaling a shot. Thanks for all your help.

As a side note, you should come up w/ a clever tiny whoop spinoff name for your frame (like the doinker or whoopie frames). I like yours the best, only one close is the doinker (and that is only bc its slightly lighter). Going to post some pics/video here and maybe on rcgroups when I get mine built.

Will make 49mm version this week :)

Hehe i really should come up with a tiny whoop spin-off name. Snapy maybe, since it snaps together :D

Today I will probably start RCgropus tread under micro quad-copters. You are more then welcome to post there as well.

Btw your prints look great.

Snappy Whoop... Hah!

Did you increase the thickness of the duct walls on the 40mm version? I printed w/ the same settings as the 50mm version (ABS 0.2mm layer height), but they are the same weight despite the size difference. The 40mm does seem indestructible, but the original thickness seemed like the perfect balance of strength/weight.

The new angled motor supports are FANTASTIC!

No. Thickness is the same (0.8mm). Lower part of duct is a bit ticker, which should add a lot of strength.

They weight almost the same because connections between ducts have to be bigger in order for electronic to fit inside.

Will probably do version 2 of 40mm. It will not be so strong, but lighter.

I merged the four pieces of the 50mm and printed it in ABS with 30% fill, it came out 18g.
Tho I did find the base to be a bit too thin for my liking, thickened it by 1.5mm and it weighs 22g.

Yes the base is too thin, i will update 50mm version this weekend. Will add angled struts, which will improve rigidity of the base and air flow. Will also add slots for motor wires instead of holes so in case of braking duct you do not have to resolder motor wires.

Inner diameter is now 51mm. I will probably reduce it to 48mm so it can be used with DYS 2030 props (47mm). Which props do you use and how do they fit?

If you have any suggestions about design please share :)

I didn't find the original version to be too thin. It was quite strong for me printed at similar infill and 0.2 layer height.

I was thinking of these props...http://www.banggood.com/8-Pair-DYS-2030-2-Inch-3-Blade-Propeller-Triblade-Bullnose-Prop-Red-Orange-Yellow-Green-Blue-Purple-p-1112635.html?rmmds=search

If you order 5-blade props just measure diameter and I will design frame for them :)

I just got DYS2030 props but they are 52mm (not 47mm)
I ordered them at the same link you mentioned.
I think inner diameter should be 53mm.

Will design new size :). Can you draw circle with 53mm and try how propeller fits inside. I want it to be as tight as possible :)

Will do, it will be a couple of week for my order from Banggood to get here by carrier pigeon.

I'm printing out the 77mm version right now but would like to have the smaller version.
When do you think you can get your original updated with the new changes you put on the 77mm?

Hi,

Can you please report if the 77mm version is sturdy enough, also whats the weight of printed part and print material.

I will probably update original version this weekend. I am finishing 40mm version and will probably upload it today.

Would you be able to make a version for 40mm props but same FC mounting hole distance? I have some of the fatbee props (basically 40mm version of the inductrix props) that I would like to use for a more compact frame. Thanks for all your work.

I will probably make 40mm and 77mm(3 inch) version this weekend.

Awesome! 40mm should be perfect indoor quad. Even on 2s the 2" are still a little to quick for indoors. As a side note, if you have time it may be worth angling the 3 supports in the ducts to the opposite direction the motor spins. Can make them thinner and taller that way, which should increase strength and help with the "ducting" effect.

Example on a brushed tinywhoop frame:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2012458

Shendrones Goldberg

Thanks for all the feedback :)..angling the struts was actually on my to do list for 40mm, 77mm and 50mm version2.

Maybe a slot for the wires instead of a hole, so if you have to swap one out, you don't have to unsolder?

Will see what I can do. I am a little bit concerned that it would affect rigidity of frame. I have idea in my mind that would probably work. I will give it a try this weekend.

Cool design !!

I just printed one pair of duct to see how they are combined together.
But connection parts are too tight so I had to sand the connectors.
I think some tolerance should be there.

And do you have a plan to design ducts for 3030 props?
3030 bullnose props (with prop adaptors 3d printed) on the 1103 motor showed good performance in my case.

Thanks :D

I intentionally draw connectors that way so they would fit tighter together. I think it is better to sand them, then to have them dance around. I too had to send mine, for them to fit together.

I am very curious on how this quad will perform, so if you are willing to build 3 inch version, I am willing to design it :)

Thanks

I am looking forward to 3 inch version.
I think it will have more space for FC and ESCs. (I already had 4 x Tarot TL300G5 6A 2-3S ESC)

I uploaded 3-inch version. Haven’t printed it yet though.

I printed it..
But shroud is little small so I scaled it up with 1.02x.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:289990

Tiny Whoop Brushless
by tjkim93

Nice :) First flaying Snapy Whoop :D You had to cut motor mounts in order to fit motors? Is it rigid enough? What’s the weight?

I opened RCgroups thread (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2815221-Snapy-brushless-Tiny-Whoop), it would be nice if you could post some pictures maybe video :)

Any suggestions about design, just share and i will try to implement it as soon as possible.

Yes, I modified the design to install mp03 motors.
motor mounts are cut by half and bolt holes are adjusted.
It weighs 90g without battery (140g including 2S 1200mAh 30C battery)

It is rigid enough :D
I'll share more photos and clips soon.

Comments deleted.

They wouldn't fit together. Last part would have to fit from below for male part and from above for female part.

What Props do you recommend?

I was thinking of using DYS 2030 props. I am still waiting for electronics, motors and other parts to build it.

Really like the design, the snap together functionality is great stuff. I assume a rubber band could be put around the connection point (before connecting) on each side to mount a battery under the frame and the micro RX sandwiched between the 4in1 ESC and FC?

Thanks :). When put together each of four ducts provides mounting hole for 20x20 electronic parts. Idea is to first mount 4in1 esc, then FC and on top RX. I already have few improvements in my mind. One how to attach battery, second how to mount fpv gear and also the ducts will probably get smaller in diameter, if stated diameter of DYS 2030 props is correct (47mm). Inner diameter is now 51mm.
First i have to receive parts, then i will probably release upgraded version.

The AIO camera mount and battery strap plate from the doinker frame should be a direct fit for your frame as well since they just use the 20x20 mounting holes. I was going to print this tonight, but will hold off for your improvements. :)

Clever design! Haven't seen that before :) Almost makes me wanna crash it on purpose just to get to change out one of those ducts ;)

Hahahahaha :D Thanks :)

Very cool design. I hope it can be wired that compact as well.

Design is based on dimensions i got online. In Solid works Assembly everything fits together. If dimensions given online are correct it should work...but soldering will probably be difficult.