Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

NERDVille

Prusa i3 MK2 PINDA height calibration tool

by NERDVille Dec 18, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Could you please update this to Mk3 with Pinda V2. It is also missing the material, layer height and printing recommendations. You cannot find this tool using Thingiverse search, I had to use Google search to find it because the PINDA has no periods in its name. There is a 2mm sensor included with the Mk3 that has a thermistor in it to determine temp changes that can throw off the sensor.

Howdy,
I just made one for the MK3 and tested it on my own printer. If you want to give it a try it can be found here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366056

Prusa i3 MK3 P.I.N.D.A. height calibration tool

Got it! Going to test it out tonight! Thanks for the update!!

Does this work with the mk3 ? The steel sheet kinda messes up height i belive.
Thanks!

The steel sheet won't affect this at all because you are only setting the distance of the nozzle from the Pinda. Even if you take the sheet off you will get the same result. Pinda V2 has a 2mm sensing window. This sets the Pinda at 1mm from the nozzle.

With this, the Pinda Temperature Calibration and the live Z adjust I was able to get a first layer that worked.

If you follow these steps along with this tool then you can verify that it is working correctly.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting-f62/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981-s410.html

I would like to know this too.

Comments deleted.

It worked for mine.

Nice, I'm going to have to download this. I'm about to change my nozzle

Pinda area is a bit too thick for my unit. wont sense it if it is adjusted there has to be lower

Is it only working with the standard PEI ore also with Filaprint?

I just finished building the MK2S. The manual's tip on adjusting the PINDA by using the flat part of one of the long zip ties is great!. Live Z offset is under -100 for me.

Just tried using this after replacing a nozzle and it scraped grooves in my bed. I think it's a bit off. and yes I put a piece of paper in there, without the paper, probably would have ripped the bed up. Hopefully the grooves will "heal"

Why the arm with the hole?

easy hanging / storage is my guess

The height I found that worked for me - was via a 0.90mm feeler gauge - and at a zero Live Z Axis!

Nice! I had to do some mods to my bed due to adding drylin bearings and had to recalibrate. This tool dropped my zero point from -0.800mm to -0.150mm. Thanks.

You should put PINDA in the title or a tag because I had to use Google to find it, Thingiverse search engine had no clue.

Hi Everybody,

I will give you my advise to calibrate this PINDA sensor using some simple step after lot of hours of test!!!!

!!! THERE IS A BIG PROBLEM WITH THE PINDA PROBE BEHAVIOR WITH HOT TEMPERATURE !!!! So you have 2 choices:

FIRST CHOICE:

You print the P.I.N.D height calibration tool BUT adapt the height of the NOZZLE surface to 0.15mm height !!! and P.I.N.D. surface to 2.00mm (THIS IS THE PERFECT CALIBRATION FOR HIGHT TEMPERATURE FILAMENT LIKE ABS NOOZLE 270°C AND BED 110°C AND OPEN MK2 PRINTER WITH 25°C AMBIANT TEMPERATURE).

Like that you NEVER TOUCH the BED in ANY CASE but LESS PRECISION if you print in LOW TEMPERATURE LIKE NOOZLE 210°C and BED 55°C OR LESS

SECOND CHOICE:

You print the P.I.N.D height calibration tool BUT adapt the height of the NOZZLE surface to 0.15mm height !!! and P.I.N.D. surface to 2.70mm (THIS IS THE PERFECT CALIBRATION FOR 25°C AMBIANT TEMP WITHOUT ANY HEATING FOR THE NOOZLE AND THE BED!!!!)

Like that you will be very precise BUT you can TOUCH the BED if you do the BED LEVELING AFTER THE HEATING OF THE BED AND/OR THE NOOZLE !!!! So you need to change the START GCODE COMMAND TO FIRST DO THE BED LEVELING AND AFTER HEATING THE NOOZLE AND THE BED!!!

YOU FOUND THE STEP HOW TO DO THE CALIBRATION XYZ PERFECTLY:

1) RESET ALL old config ->"CALIBRATION->CALIBRATION OF XYZ" AND "BED LEVEL CORRECTION-> Put all at 0" AND "SETTING->LIVE Z ADJUSMENT-> 0mm" !!!! VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT TO DO THAT LIKE A HARD RESET!!!

2) Print the right calibration tool depending of which choice you take upper

3) Adjust the size of your PINDA Probe and verify that when the probe is fix that the nozzle NOT TOUCH AT ALL THE BED (0.15mm minimum)!!!!

4)Go to Menu "calibration->CALIBRATION XYZ" and don't forget to put a paper A4 (0.15mm heigt) on your BED in case of some bug!!!!

5) Be ready during the first FOUR calibration test to POWER OFF the printer if the nozzle start to touch the paper A4 !!!! If it's the case, your PINDA probe is to near the bed so just look look how many mm you need to reach the 0.15mm height between your BED and your nozzle and increase this height on the probe position and restart from the first point.

HAVE FUN and don't forget that IT'S NOT AT ALL A AUTOMATIC BED LEVELING SYSTEM BUT A SIMPLE SEMI AUTOMATIC Z ADJUSTMENT

SO Print the V2calibration stl file and see if everything is ok and affine your print using the CALIBRATION->BED LEVEL CORRECTION by comparing the height of your nozzle from the 9 points that the pinda probe use to be PERFECTLY PLANAR!!!

Look at this other safe and very good solution:

http://www.prusamk2.com/keeping-it-simple-with-the-pinda-height-lug/

http://www.prusamk2.com/get-your-p-i-n-d-a-probe-working-for-you/#comment-250

MY OPINION IS THAT BETTER TO PUT THE PINDA PROBE SOMEWHERE ELSE WHERE THERE IS NO HEATING FROM THE NOOZLE LIKE FRONT OF THE FAN FOR THE NOZZLE AND DO THE BED LEVELLING BEFORE HEATING THE BED!!!

Boy, there is some really wrong info here. Beware.

I agree. This tool is not at all anything but a basic beginners tool. And some of the info from march 31 is way off the mark. This tool could be used during a build but fine adjustments should be made with a feeler gauge set. If you dont have feeler gauges and you have owned a 3d printer for more than a month then you really still are a complete amateur. Its OK but buy one immediately. This crap with Prusa using lame ass crutches and sorry amateurish techniques is pathetic. As an experienced builder who has real tools the instructions were infuriating. I cant stand catering to amateurs rather than teaching them to do thi gs right. You in no way should be building an i3 kit without feeler gauges and a 6" metric calipers. They should at least make the highly recommended tools to buy.

PS just keep the z height of the carriage about 150mm or higher during bed warm up. Its infuriating how low they park this carriage by default.

Great littel tool, works well.. great to get you very close if not spot on ...Remeber to reset to Z 0 then adjust probe..

Great tool, but always remember to set the Live Z Adjust to 0 before running the Calibration, as most likely you are going to raise the PIND and noozle will hit the heatbed then.

Good point, however at least in my experience on the MK2S, re-running the Calibration zeroed the Live Z axis anyway - which is what one would expect should happen.

I printed this yesterday. It does not provide a perfect setting right away, but gives a much better guideline for initial setting of the PINDA, than the photo in the Prusa manual. I needed to lower the PINDA slightly to avoid the nozzle touching the bed. I improved my Z offset from -0.720 to 0.380 (for PLA) with the aid of this tool. Always run the initial XYZ calibration with a piece of paper on the bed, as mentioned in the manual

Don't recommend making, ruined my bed when I tried to XYZ calibrate after using (see pic in "I made one").

Sorry to hear this but it is just a guide to get you near the range of calibrating it. It not going to give you 100% first time as all sensor vary. Let me know what height you have achieved for it to work perfect.

What are the recommended print settings.

Use this at your own risk. I thought it'd give it a try.

Now my live z is at -1.7mm which is way too low.

Hi sorry to hear this bits just a guide to bring you close to where you need to be but some others have had improved results and some haven't.

Just saw your YouTube video - Decided to print this and give it a try. Works really well, great job.

Thank you for this useful calibration tool. After readjusting the height of my PINDA sensor, I got -0.220mm for my Z-Offset (from -0.680mm)