Completely printable frame for Hypercube. As loing as you have 177mm height.
Based off tech2c recomended measurements.
*designed to print with my lasercut i3 with e3d x179 y190 z180
- Print with a 5 line or more brim.
-use concentric infill unless printing solid. If solid use any pattern.
-0.3mm layer height or less. 0.3 used in the pictures
-55mm sec speed or less. Seems to get problems faster. Your printer may be different.
-Best way to attach together so far wIth PLA
- Sand your z seam from the square pin so you have a nice fit. Make sure its flush before you glue. No gaps.
- Use CA or epoxy Very lightly. Press firmly together.
- Fuse or melt using a heat gun at 350 deg. I use a fine tip so i only melt a small amount. Place part on a flat surface lke your build plate. Heat the joints one side at a time rotate the bar each time while also pushing together. Make sure not to push to hard and cause a bulge. Use the flat surface to keep them strait.
(I found using this method the print fails from layers breaking rather than the joint.
- If using Abs I would use acetone to melt them together. Or the same as above.*
- Add 2 to 4 extenders Drill necessary holes and bolt. If using cap head bolts they will sit flush with the outer frame when fully screwed in.
- What Didn't work well. I tried strait ca and strait epoxy but found both joints fail by the center pin breaking. and the glue joint failing.
You may have to sand the male part to fit depending on your printers tolerances. I had 2 that were perfect and one that needed sanding.
My first print of all the x at once.
12hr 49 min print time 60 mm/sec pla on (4_x_340mm_X.stl)
Not sure whats faster on at a time or together.
-Check out these link for m3 tslot nut holders.
T-Slot 2020 Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area
4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y)
4 x 350mm (Z)
2 x 285mm (Bed)
1 x 135mm (Bed)