Loading

MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now

Zarlor

Bullzeye Clock

by Zarlor Nov 24, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

is there a way to print multiple parts at one time?

You should be able to keep loading parts in your 3D printer software for as many as your bed will fit if you want.

I have printed and purchased some ~2mm rods (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Helicopter-Brass-Ground-Shaft-Round/dp/B00JR5CG88/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1534764110&sr=1-1&keywords=2mm+brass+rod) - unless i am missing something the holes in the cogs are too small for the rods?

Andy

Sorry, I had used 1/16 inch metal rods which I think are about 1.6mm. You might have to just use a 2mm drill bit to make the hole a little larger for those 2mm rods. I am working on another clock and I'll use 2mm rods in that design.

How often do you have to wind up this? Like how much does the weight drop per hour?

I'm trying to find a clock that I have to mess with maybe monthly at best or weekly at worst.

It runs for about 8-12 hours after your reset the weights. I doubt you'll find a 3d printed mechanical gravity clock that gets much better. You might want to get a clock that is powered by a motor instead as some 3d printed clocks Thingiverse have.

What I'm looking for is a non electrical clock. I have a few very old clocks around my house that doesn't have to be messed with but once a month at worst. Some even longer.

Is it a given part that should be made out of metal to achieve this? Like does the spring need to be metal?

I don't know if you're still looking for an answer or not but to get a monthly clock you'll need a clock that takes one of these springs. I doubt something 3d printed will be able to hold the tension but your welcome to try, this site has most of the parts you'd need minus a housing.
https://timesavers.com/c-325720-clock-repair-replacement-parts-mainsprings-arbors-barrels-31-day-clock-mainspring.html

Thanks for sharing your design is it great but it is a shame that the assembly instructions are so vague.

Sorry, I've re-uploaded the two images that show how the gears go together and labelled the parts and where to put superglue. I hope this helps.

Thats perfect, thank you for taking the time to reply.

Hi.
An interesting project, but before I start, where can I see an assembly instruction?
Thank you.

Hello, I explain it in the details and the 5th and 6th pictures show how the gears go together. I hope this helps!

Honestly, it is a little confusing, because the parts are not numbered and because the drawing is not schematic, I would also like to know the weight of the coins, to replace it with a metal, like lead.
Regards.

The code for gear 10 will not slice properly. Got all the other parts ok. I do repair clocks and watches so know how it all should go together. just a bit disappointed I can not print gear 10

You could try and feed the part into https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/ and see if that helps. I haven't gotten any other reports of slicing issues. Maybe try and different slicer and see if that helps too?

Printed all parts and built one half of the clock with gear1 & drum. It took a lot of effort to get the pins fit right in the holes but finally got the two gears move fine. Now, all I see is a rod poking out, ready to put in the gears for the hour and minute hands. However, I am not sure how it all works, as all I see is one rod movement at the moment. Where does gear10 fit in? Can you show how the hour and minute hands are hooked up? Thanks.

hmm... gear10 is not visible in the picture, which got me confused. Reading your comments, gear10 should be tight, followed by the other gears which are loose. Got it. Will hook it up tonight and see....

I hope the black and white gear picture helps. You can kind of see the gear10 in that one.

Thanks. I built almost to 90%. My anchor is not making 100% contact on both sides with the escapement wheel due to alignment issues. I will take the easy route by increasing the size (of the blades) in Sketchup. Also, the pendulum could swing some more.

All in all, a great design. I failed trying to print bigger clocks in thingiverse and for the first time, all the gears are moving end to end smoothly. Thank you.

Also, was wondering if I can use a small DC motor to produce the torque, as a replacement for the weight. This may be a crazy idea, but thought I'd give it a try.

With all parts printed and put together, I find my pendulum stops after about 10 swings. I printed a new escapement wheel, increasing width from 4 to 7 mm. I will replace tonight and see.

Mine used to stop until I used powdered graphite lubricant and I made sure the top frame wasn't flexing inward at all. If the top frame isn't perpendicular then it stops the wheel before the escapement wheel by creating too much friction with that metal rod.

Thanks. I will check it out tonight. I printed the escapement wheel (with 7mm width) last night and it came out well. I am positive that I will get it to work tonight.

PS: I test by applying the needed torque by hand for now. Once I am satisfied it runs non-stop, I will see if a motor can be used instead if penny weights. I know the motor would heat up bad, but wanted to give it a try.

I made the center hole of the escapement wheel a bit wider than the rod and though it still rotates, it is not as tight as it should be. Printed another to try tonight.

How long of a pendulum to use? When using short ones, I see that they do not oscillate (swing) much in either side. Id like a good swing in both sides, but assume timing will then be off? Thanks.

I used inches for materials, so if you're trying to use millimeters you may have to adjust the hole sizes. Here's the two important measurements from the Summary page:
1/64 stainless steel rods (~2mm)
3.5 feet 3/16 wooden dowel (~5mm)
Each tick and each tock from the clock should take one second. I have it running in my office and it's within a minute of accuracy after running for my entire workday.

Thanks much for the details. I am on a mission to get this to work by this weekend. I will update soon.

Your TinkerCad link doesn't go anywhere meaningful for other people. That link only works for you.

Oh! It looks like they don't allow a Project to be public. I had already made the designs public. I've changed the front page to link directly to the designs instead of the project now. Thanks for the notice!

Thanks very much! I'm interested in how you accomplished this. I tried to make an escapement wheel in TinkerCad and it came out ok, but I think there are minor issues which TinkerCad can't fix, notably an off-center hub.

Yeah, you can see in "escapement and drum" how I made my escapement by making one tooth (top and bottom) and then rotating copies of that around after aligning the copy over the top of the original vertical one. I then put a cylinder in the center of that with a hole.

That's pretty much the same way I did it. But, when I printed it out, it looks like the hole in the middle is off center. Could be my printer. It's only off by a little bit though, and by spinning the wheel up against some sandpaper, I can make it work. I don't know how to draw the arms but I did find a great book about how to do that on paper, so I might just sketch it up on paper first. The paper technique can't really be done in TinkerCad, I tried. I think this link will work, I could really use some advice on where to go from here...

https://tinkercad.com/things/93zON8ptANH

I have printed this but I need more details on rigging the pendulum and weight rigging do yo have more instructions and pictures fr me to finish assembly?

Sure, I have taken two more pictures of the pendulum and weights. I printed the four main weights in gray and the single counterweight in white which you can barely see at the bottom. The pendulum is about 3.5 feet and if you raise or lower the bob you can get a tick every second and then a tock every second for the correct time. Just wrap the nylon string 1.5 times around the gear1 drum and when the weight and counterweight pull on the string it shouldn't slip off.

How long will it run before needing rewinding?

It all depends on how long the nylon string is, but you may get something like 8 hours give or take a few hours.