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PLA Replicator Ducted Fan Clips Modded

by thruit00 Nov 26, 2013
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The wires seem too short on my FF to rotate the fan around and reseat ...
Have you any more advice on that or some photo's of what your 'stock' wiring looks like with this fan installed please?

I used these to help me print your active cooling V2 for Flashforge. I must say active cooling on ABS, I never thought to try it but it as to be the nicest print I have ever produced, looks almost like injection moulded, really clean edges, super tidy bridging and not a curve out of shape. Thanks. If the active is even better I can't wait to try it.

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Doesn't seem to work worth a damn. Flipping the fan around and applying this thing just causes all the air to be pushed backwards into the heat sink and ends up coming out through the fins in the heat sink. The fan is facing out to blow air into the duct but all the air hits the back of it and comes out through the heat sink instead of going down to the extruder. Can you make a new one for me that covers the heat sink side and maybe is a square instead of a circular shape so it covers the whole fan forcing more air down instead of letting it get out of the small gaps between things?

this does fit a duplicator 4 quite well, i just attached one to mine last night... printed one, then attached it to print another one. the bridging was pretty rough on the first one... but after i attached it the bridging on the second was much better. and now that i dont have a lot of sagging plastic in the airway i'm sure it'll work even better. thank you for sharing this design. so much easier than trying to figure out how to wire a dedicated fan for active cooling.

Hi thanks alot for the effort doing this . Im pretty new in 3d printing and would this system be enough to have a good print or i would need the v2 where i need to solder something on the board to have a better print ? And just to be sure ,i need to turn my fan the other side right ?
Thanks in advance :)

you need to turn the front fans. i havent tested yet but u should be able to use the v2 withouth solder on the mightyboard. you can use the power supply of the printer

Does any body know if this will duct will fit my duplicator 4?

If so, which one do I print? Original version or vers 2?


On the pictures you can see the ducts mounted on my Duplicatpr 4 so I expect the to fit on yours.
On my printer the original version fitted well but it depents how high your nozzles are setuped. User laird has his nozzles mounted higher and thats why I created V2 for him.

I guess the bearing part of the sled is wider on my new FF creator, it prevents the piece from sitting up against the fan all the way by about 1/8".

So just finished printing this and it seems like it is doing TOO good of a job on my prints.........they won't stick to my build plate any longer! Any suggestions on how to fix this issue? I've tried bumping up the extruder temp by 10 degress (still no go). Is there any way to NOT have the extruder fan kick on until you print a few layers first?

I have no issues like that even if I use 3 big 92mm fans to cool the PLA while printing. Are you sure ur basic setup, configuration and calibration is fine?

I never printed on a different layer height than 0.1mm - but as this is the lower end of the default range it should be a very strong test for this fan clips.
If you print with 0.1mm the extruder nozzle has to have a distance from the build platform of 0.05mm on the first layer.

I use makerware to slice and the important parameters for this particular problem are:

bedZOffset 0.0
layerHight 0.10
doDynamicSpeed true
platformTemp 60

  • is a wildcard and means all matching parameters have to be set that way.

In extruder profiles I set the feedrate to 30mm/s on the FIRST layer (the rest is printed fast).

The Build plate has to be calibrated and perfectly flat to have no wraping problems.
My Build platform is a 4mm mirror plate (works like glass but with better heat spreading effects)
On top of that I use a normal 150mm wide kapton tape.
For platform calibration I use a feeler gauge to calibrate the 0.05mm offset of the nozzle and the build platform on all of the metering points and control the constant distance with a dial gauge (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24864)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi....

That's all and PLA sticks like hell - sometimes a little to good ;-)

If U often switch between Makerware and ReplicatorG you have to modify the Skeinforge slicer profile to not have to relevel the build plate all the time you swich between those applications. Here you can see my configuration changes in RepG:

Skeinforge slicer profile -> Craft -> Bottom:
Enable Active Bottom
Additional Hight (...) 0.5
Altitude 0.1 mm

Alternately U can setup 2 different profiles inside Sailfish firmware (if you use it on your printer). For each profile you can define a separate bed offset. (I don't use this Sailfish feature cause I tend to forget to switch the profile and than destroy my Kapton tape on the build plate if the distance of the nozzle is to low.)

Keep my fingers crossed that these details of my setup help U to fix your warping problem.

Dial Gauge Holder for Replicator

Yeah............I came to a conclusion too fast that it was the duct causing the warping....but it seemed like the build plate was off once I attached the duct. I have leveled the build plate with the duct on the extruder and now it seems like the duct really isn't doing anything to cool off the print :(

Hm, they really do a very good job for me on most of my PLA prints. I just use a bigger blower fans on extreme small detailed parts. I added a picture of one of my prints I did with this ducted fan clips and they cooled the PLA well enough to be able to print those very thin cylinders. Without the clips the same print was a disaster!
Are your profiles well optimized for the the models you are going to print and the PLA you are using or do you use the default settings where you just can insert a few settings with original makerbot fillament? With the default settings I never had good results on my 0.1mm prints.

So what is the risk then of turning the extruder fan around for this purpose? Has there been any instances of overheating of the extruder motor because the fan is now being used for cooling the print instead of cooling the motor?

ir doesnt over heat just blows a crap tons of heat outward, and can blow the smell of abs out as well.

Oh nevermind.....seems like this issue has been addressed earlier....

I printed this, and it LOOKS beautiful, but it's perhaps 1/8th of an inch too long, at least for how my nozzles are installed, because it hits the print and knocks it loose. I am uploading a photo of the two, as a 'made one'.

I suspect that the nozzles on different replicators can be in somewhat different positions and the printer works fine, so it might work fine for some people and not for others.

So I'll file it down and bit and see if that'll get enough clearance.

Sanding it down seems to help, but not enough. But looking at it, even 1mm shorter might do the trick.

Hi laird!
Realy stange - I use those ducted clips very often and never had issues with them. I have modified higher quality fans and a self adapted/redesigned spring extruder, but all of that should not matter concerning your problems with this clips. You want me to modify the model for you?

You need the bottom duct 1mm (or more?) less high so that you get more distance between the duct and the printed material? Something else you ask me to modify on this? Is the rest fiting well on your replicator?

It's a perfect fit - snug between the fan and the platform, faces the fans, and fits into the notch in the front of the platform. And I like the way yours is flat on the build platform so that it doesn't require support for the "wings".

One suggestion - if you put a vertical wall running up the middle of the vent that runs from the fan down to the nozzle, it would help support the bridging where it fills in the top of the vent. And I think that the air flow would be unchanged.

I suspect that my nozzles are just screwed in a bit further than yours. 1mm would give me clearance. 2mm would give a little extra room in case of printing problems (curling, etc.).

Did you try the updated version I created for you?

Yep, perfect fit, thanks! I'll put a pic in as 'made'.

Great to hear that and thanks for your plans to post your result!

Bottom duct was at the lower side just 4,8mm high. That's why i did just reduce its height by 1.8mm.Hope this version is fitting your need better, than the first one.

with the fans on backwards, don't you get print failures about 30min into builds?

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I'm printing 99% of my parts with ABS and a closed build chamer on all of my 3 printers. While I desined the first version of my active cooling duct in 2013 I was using this passive duct from over here for around 6 month with inverted fans ~12h a day. At least none of the PAPST 414F fans died neither in these days nor till today. The original 3 fans (2 extruder, 1 mighty board) of my first printer died because of a bearing failure within the first weeks of heavy but normaly mounted usage. On the second and third printer I exchanged the fans to the PAPST 414F model before I switched them on for the first time.

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All of the Replicator 1 clones and original Replicator 1, 2 and 2X I saw live (at home, at my friends houses or on exibitions) do have had loud beering sounds, completely failed fans or already exchanged fans. My advice for people at forums I'm in is to grab good fans instead of searching for the original replacement. Because of the 24V and the high air rates you need the variety sucks. Me and most of my friends use the PAPST 414F model and we are pretty satified with it. A few use fans of Sunon, because of a little higher air flow rates, but those are also known to fail after a while.

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I bought mine on ebay UK and got them shipped to Germany. They are still available there for the same goof price: current item number is 170858769121

I've been running this way for two years, and it turns out that the cooling is identical, at least for the Replicator, because the airflow is controlled such that the fans either blow onto the cooling fins or they suck air past the cooling fins, so the heat transfer is the same. So all this does it take the warm air and blow it at the filament that was just extruded. And even though the air blowing outis warm, it still cools the filament more than still air.

I did several PLA prints from around 2 hours to 13 hours with fine details without problems. Why do you think there should be trouble after 30min? It takes the air from the sides and blows it to the printed material. Cause the extruder fans blow very strong compared to their small size the air is not getting very warm and works well for cooling.