These are pipe-shaped, slip-on vise pads that are easily adjustable in OpenSCAD. If you want to securely hold pipe and you don't want jaw marks imprinted on your pipe either, these pads will do the job.
These pads slip around the entire jaw of your vise so they don't easily fall off during use.
To adjust these pads for your bench vise's jaw dimensions, change viseX, viseY, and viseZ parameters (please refer diagrams above). Increase your measurements by 1% to account for ABS shrinkage.
The thickness of the top, bottom, sides, and face are adjustable in millimeters.
Rafts are not necessary. I suggest using a 10mm brim to reduce warping. I also recommend setting overhang to your minimum value. You should print them face-down.
You need the clamp to press on the "face" of the grain (layers) and not on the edges; otherwise, your pads will crack under pressure.
You are going to absolutely need to keep the whole temperature hot since warping is going to be a problem.
I recommend making the overhang very short or none at all. Note: To see the difference overhang has on warping, see post-printing instructions on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1933068.
These pads are very good under compression. If you intend to use very high pressure on your vise while using these pads, print at 30% infill, 1.6mm walls, and 1.6mm top/bottom thickness and I will be surprised if you can crack these pads by hand.
In the script, you can increase your vise dimensions by a percentage to account for shrinkage. I recommend adding 1% to your jaw dimensions when printing with ABS. Using 1%, I am able to slip these pads on and off by hand with no slop.
Using the OpenSCAD script, you can change the size of the pipe you can hold by changing the value of pipeRad to the radius of the pipe (currently set at 0.5" or 25.4/2 mm for a 1" pipe). The pipeOffset and faceMargin values should automatically adjust. PipeOffset will leave a gap between the pads when clamped down on a pipe. You need some gap.
I ended up prying the supports off using a pocket-knife.
Notice how severe the warping is on the face. I think it has to do with the pipe-shape and the long overhang in the back. So make the overhang short for your print.
That's apple juice.
I use tick marks to match up the original orientation. I split the piece along the main cracks and then glue them back together using hot-melt glue. In my experience, it is cheap and works the best out of everything I've tried.
More apple juice.
I left long overhangs on my piece so I had more severe cracking than usual. I think if you set the overhang to a very small value the cracking won't be a big problem. If the cracking is severe, glue will fix it.
In the picture below, I got new cracks when I clamped the vice very tightly, and I just filled the cracks with glue.
As ugly as it is, it works fine. I left the glue on so I can remind myself to adjust the print next time. I hope you have better luck!
Hotdog in a bun! Ugly, but they work. =)
I designed this with...
OpenSCAD. The script is included so you can customize this item for your own bench vise.
Bench vise master race =)