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Vonjet

Mavic Box

by Vonjet Nov 18, 2016
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Can we use for Mavic 2?

I was wondering the same, looks like no. https://www.halfchrome.com/mavic-2-vs-mavic-pro/ Might be able to scale it up a little?

Can we use for Mavic 2?

At the moment you can win a Mavic @Banggood Puzzle Anniversy Game:

https://goo.gl/6Hq9cJ

the box fit in the DJI bag from the flymore combo ?

No I do not think so.

I added a new version of the box with different profile of the rounded edges. Should help some printers print easier.

I have an origianl Prusa MK2 and tried multiple settings and the bottom layer where the outside edges start to curve up they curl up bad. Any suggestions?

You need to have good part cooling. Are you using PLA and fans on at 100% on the 2nd layer? What filament are you using and what print temp and setting?

Printing mine now with a Prusa Mk2 and the sides are looking thicker than what I am seeing in the photo. Can anyone tell me the slicer settings that I should be using because even after keying in the few that is in the description something seems off in the slicer print settings. Any help will be appreciated

What slicer are you using?

Prusa edition 1.33.8

I use S3D so I am not sure if the settings are the same. But I use .25 layer height. 2 shells. 2 bottom layers and 3 top layers. 20% infill.

If your printing the box the walls are thicker at first. It doesn't get thin until the very top.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. I just downloaded S3D to but can't really figure out how to create objects on it yet. Would be cool if you did a tutorial on youtube on actually creating this box. I've got several programs installed such as Blender & 3DS Max etc...and none of them appear easy to use.

S3D is a slicer. You can not create things in it. I use Fusion 360 for design work. I can't do youtube tutorials I suck at video stuff. There are so many great videos on Fusion 360 out there already.

ah I see. Well I've got Fusion 360 also and haven't figured out how to even get the 3d file to import into it yet.

Great design Vonjet!

Quick question. I am also using a Prusa MK2 to print the Mavic Box and the print is nearly complete. I noticed the final couple of layers near the opening are messed up however -- the lip and opening for the cover printed okay, but about an hour afterwards, I noticed that it was printing at least one layer over the entire top of the box, including the lip and therefore covering up the lip designed to attach the cover/lid (that is what messed up the top since the lip is a few mm below the main body). I am using Slic3r as my slicer. Any suggestions? Could Slic3r be the problem?

I use S3D. It must be the slicer. Try using a different layer height and reslice it and see if that issues still exists.

Thank you for the quick response!

I am having some difficulties bridging (using PLA). There is some sagging and gaps (not everywhere, but just one area). Would you mind sharing your settings with me, since you also use the MK2?

Also, I am considering purchasing S3D. Do you find that this slicer is superior to others? I am thinking that most of my issues are due to Slic3r not slicing properly -- although when I print the 3D Benchy on PETG and PLA, it comes out near perfect. Thanks!

Comments deleted.

Vonjet: this thing is awesome! Like the color and padding!! Shannon

Hey man, I have a friend who asked me to print this for him but i don't have a printer that can print it. Neither of mine are tall enough.

Do you think you could make it with 2 lids? one on each end? then the tube in the middle. that way it can printed in 3 sections and still look awesome.

Let me look into doing that. Give me some time. I am really busy right now but would like to try and help.

So my father in law is now demanding i make one of these for him or lose his daughter! Looking forward to seeing your design

:)

No problems,

I know what that's like! Always busy lol

Do you think on creating another case for batteries? I am trying to find something on the internet to storage 4 batteries (that works like a magazine for easy access), but there's no designs created yet.

Thank for the suggestion. I may start making that soon.

It'd be good if this was split a little different as a lot of people have smaller build areas.

I made this today and the ABS split in many places. Not sure what I did wrong.

Could be a number things from your filament, settings, printer etc. I print them in PLA and they are tough and do not warp or crack.

I thought it needed to be ABS. I will try again in PLA. Thanks

This was due to warping from ABS. I assume it split roughly every 5 cm? ABS has high shrinkage and high glass transition temperature, thus generating high thermal strain. This strain will add up until it is higher than the lamination force generated by welding the layers on top of each other. You would need a heatet chamber at around 70 °C to avoid this for ABS. PLA is really brittle and might break quite fast (while using the case). I always use PET for an application like this. Easy to print like PLA, almost no warping and really good toughness.

I just printed this is PLA and came out fantastic. I would like to try PET. Would you be willing to share your settings when printing in PET?

Depends on the kind of PET you have. There are some kinds printable between 190-220 °C and some between 230-250 °C depending on the modifications they saw. I usually use the top end of the required temperature range. I like using large nozzles, thick layers and high speeds when possible. This design would be perfect for that, being just a box without intricate features or curves.
In this case I would use up to 275 °C (for the PET with max 250 °C) with a 0.8 mm nozzle (e3d v6 HotEnd, not the volcano), aorund 40 mm/s speed on my 3 year old Prusa I3 and 0.6 mm layer height in the vertical sections. 0.2 or 0.3 mm layers for the rounded corners. Since the volume flow would be a third to a half here, I would adjust the temperature to around 255 °C.
Whenever possible, I like to avoid the use of a fan cooling my print and preferably adjust the temperature to get better layer adhesions. All the settings stated are therefor with fan OFF. If you use a fan, you might be able to use the 275 °C throughout the whole print, but you should test all this yourself. In such "big" prints with round corners, I always use a brim of around 10mm to avoid warping on the edges and I print PET on Kapton tape.
Also try to use dry PET, since it is hygroscopic. The absorbed water hydrolizes the PET-molecules when passing through the nozzle which will make your print more brittle, thus loosing the advantage of being more ductile or tough than PLA.

I'm using PET-G .... do you think I can use the same settings as you have described here?

What brand of PET-G? I would only reccomend using the exact same settings if you have the same setup as me. All of this depends on your setup: Extruder, HotEnd, Nozzle diameter etc. Can you describe what you are using? I can give you better advice then. What speeds and nozzle sizes/layer height do you usually print?

I'm using @ESUN 3mmm PET-G Filament (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIQ6QG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I'm printing on a Ultimaker 2+ with a .4mm extruder but I also have a .25mm nose I could switch to if necessary. I do have a heated bed on my printer.

With the .4mm nozzle you should use no more than .32mm layer height. You can use the max recommended temperature on your HotEnd, which as I see it is 260 °C for your filament. If your Ultimaker can hanlde speeds above 60 mm/s I would use 270 °C, but keep in mind, that the outmost perimeters are usually printed slower. The Temp advice is for the real speed on the outmost perimeter considering the thin wall of the part and it will mostly be built by perimeters and almost no infill. If it is reduced there to less than 60 mm/s, just use 260°C. Use at least 85 °C on your heatbed and use a brim of a minimum width of 5mm (adjust your number of "Outlines" according to your extrusion width). On the first layer, check that the brim is well attached to the outline of your part, else it will not prevent warping of the corners.
PS: Another tip on printing parts like this, which have thin vertical walls: Try adjusting your extrusion width and perimeter count, such that you dont get infill inbetweend the perimeters of the vertical walls. You can incrementally adjust the parameters in S3D and check in the print preview if there are gaps left. Find the maximum amount of perimeters that fit first (you can calculate that by wallthickness/2*perimterwidth) and then go higher on the extrusion width. Going lower is not recommended.

Fantastic! Thank you for your recommendations!

You are welcome! I just edited my comment, the tip is for reducing the vibrations associated with the fast "zigzag" movements for infills in small gaps.

I have not printed this in PETG yet. I only used PLA for this project. Let me know how it turns out!

I want to order this from you exactly like you have in the picture. I can not find "Matterhackers Pro Gun Metal" on your 3D Hubs store. What is that foam you have on the lid and where can I get it? I tried to message you on RCGROUPS but your box is full. This box is awesome. Great job.

Oh Sorry I did not put the gunmetal on my store because it is new color. I will add it. I use a high density black foam. Try and PM me on Rcgroups again. I just cleared out my inbox.

@Vonjet .... just printed in PLA and came out SO good. I noticed you indicated that you are using a high density black foam. Where did you place the foam, what thickness is the foam did you use contact cement to adhere it to the PLA? I'm asking because I didn't know what adhesive was save on PLA. Thanks in advance.

I purchased the foam off Amazon. It gets placed at the bottom inside of the box and another pad inside of the lid. Then I use microsuede on the sides and some on the top to prevent any rubbing. The foam is 4-5mm thick. You cant go to thick or the case wont close.

Sent. Thanks!

Wow, yours looks amazing! How did you print this, how was it aligned?

Print each part seperate.
Print thme with the bottom flat side on the bed. If your printer cant handle overhangs well add support.