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Anet A8 Y Cable Chain

by sukhoi27 Nov 6, 2016
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for some reason when i clip the links together it curves up. Can anyone tell me why this is happening

Why was the type 2 included? There is no actual hole on the printer for the wire to pass through when this one has been attached.

Saw this, thought I'd make this one, looks the best, compact and works brilliantly!! hard to get the axis nut and washer on, but it does go, performs brilliantly!! thank you!!!

is it possible to point me to the grey fan duct shown to your first pic?

Would it be possible to have a modified version that could fit 10x15 or 10x20mm chains?

I printed some of this items. Unfortunately the are to tight. The chain is hard to move and scratching. I suspect the could be a bit more tolerance at the connecting planes.

To me it looks like your print is poor quality.

To me it looks like your print is poor quality.

It seems after installing this, my bed doesn't move as well, seems to make a weird noise and it is much harder to push the bed (like bearings are binding). Is there something I am doing wrong?


Can you please share sources or add design for smaller chain cells?
Ive ordered chain from China, but it's 13cm on widest part & 9.3cm on narrowest.
Thank you!

Comments deleted.

I get 8 388 736 errors in Slic3r and the program immediately crashes (Anet_A8_Chain_x4.stl) After importing a reexporting the stl in Blender there are no problems. Weird

How many chain links do I need for this to work

I've got the same question. From pictures, I'm counting 14-15 links.

Doesnt work for the new A8 frame 2017. You know where i can get only the new piece at the Motor?


Im having a problem that the chain hits the front nuts of the y axis

What have i done wrong


I put to many links in sorted now

How many links did you use

I cant use this I use crimps on the hotbed because the cable that came with it get really hot and I had it at 60 then the plasic caught on fire! Luckily I watched it it was small so I blew it out and googled for fix and crimps came up no problems yet and crimps heat it up faster but they to long I can't fit that piece on it.

Your best bet is to remove the old plug (desolder it) and solder the wires directly to the heat bed PCB

Hi, can i get the file for your extruder fan thats in the pic? i can find it on thingiverse

thx in advance.

Printed this but ran in to an issue straight away, the top of the chain rests too high. Flexes fine in and out but when everything is homed, the hotend is actually touching the chain.

Any ideas?

Hi sukhoi27!

I remix your chain for an easy


Anet A8 Y Cable Chain by sukhoi27 MOD

anyone know if this fits a 10x15 cable chain?

Could you find it?

I remixed the hotbed connector so its only 2mm thick. Current size (4mm) requires longer screws. with my thinner version you can use the original screws.

I printed 16 (14 for the chain itself and 2 extras).

how many chain links do i print

A problem I have is that when the bed goes to 0, all the way to the back, the chain would actually get higher than the nozzle at z=0, and when the head wants to move, it bumps into the chain. I bent it manually, and it did fine, gravity moved it as well.
I think that the stiffness of the cables is what is preventing the chain from bending all the way... What do you think? And what can I do?

maybe sand down the individual links of the chain so they are a bit looser and flow better

Hi all,
I struggle a bit to print the chain parts. Only four pieces finished but the quality is way off from what i imagine. The other tries to print more chain parts failed because the round side warps right after printing first layers and the printer always hits against the layers when it moves from one piece to the other.

Does anybody has a hint for me how to improve the quality? Im printing with PLA from Colorfabb on heated bed with Glass (200°C/65°C).
I already tried to print using brim but failed also. After half of print the pieces loose there grip and fall from the bed.
I was thinking to print on very low speed and without fan but didnt had time to try yet. Would that help prevent warping?

Use hair spray on glass ;)

Thanks for the idea sukhoi27, but unfortunately im not talking about warping warping (my bad :()
The tip of round side starts to bent at the first layers and the nozzle Hits this parts when it Moves between the four pieces. How could I prevent from bending? I cannot imagine that im the only one with that Problem?!

Today I had time to try again and it looks a lot better till now (is still printing). I lowered the bed Temperature to 55°C, added Brim, lowered print speed to 40° and I think the most important is that I put the nozzle fan on 70% from beginning so the parts are better cooled

you should have tried enabling z hop, sorry i know i am considerably late but thats what i would do

Grate design, but made improvement to be easy to assemble and also no need to file joints http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2078238

chain improvement
by Baigars

I've made some small mod to this great design - check it out here!

Anet A8 Y-Axis Cable Chain v2

What changes did you make to this design bro?

Changes are written in the description

Any pointers on the chain links as mine fit VERY tight and are not that easy to 'flex' when assembled. Are people doing some post-print cleanup super secret thing that I'm not aware of? ;)

Bit late now but for people still struggling I used pla for this and ran it under some hot water for a few seconds at a time. Carefully tho as too much heat and the link arms will deform.

Just 'use' manually the chain for some minutes before isntalling - the friction will smooth the touching parts and then it will flex smoothly.

I just took a file and smoothed out the edges of all the links where they roll. smooth flowing motions like a river now.

guys i ved made a remix with this nice Y chain

the holes on the suport of the bed doesn t fit well so i ve made them a little larger with a solder gun .
everithink works well now .i have X and Y chains working ......thank you

Anet A8 Y cable chain Remix
by ryks

This seems to be a great design! Of course you have rotated the hotbed 90° counterclockwise, right? (mine has the hotbed connector on the back)
I'll try to print it soon.
What are the differences between type 1 and 2 support?

yes you are right, i turned 90º counterclockwise, in Type 2 cables are hidden by the printed piece, for the type 1 initial idea was to make a hole in the chassis to pass the cables but may also go over

But why did you rotate it? My hotbed cables are in the back and they don't seem to cause any problems as they are. Is there any reason I should rotate it also? Thanks

I totally agree nununo, this is goofy. Having the connector in the rear, with the cables gently hanging from the frame, is better. You never want to have cables constantly flexing if you don't need to. As far as the aesthetic, it's much cleaner to have them wrapped in the rear too. Who wants bulky plastic up front, that you need to fabricate and assemble? Oh well, I guess some people just like to have their gear look amateur. People who assembled their shit correctly in the first place won't need this noise.

Cable is flexing regardless if its in the back or front. Since the platform moves in Y it makes sense to line the chain in Y. If you don't like it don't do it you don't need to belittle others who want to have fun with their printer. It's no more goofy in front then in back. If the printer was sold with it's configuration in the side, you'd think putting it in the back was goofy. Some people can't think past beyond the default configuration, which is completely against the whole idea of building your own kit, and using open software.

Turning the hotbed around 90º is actually a common thing with these printers. If you choose to use a glass plate as your print surface, you often have to deal with glass that is slightly longer on one side. It makes sense to put the overhang in the back so that it isn't in the way. This mod makes that possible. I'm printing it out now before I switch to a glass plate.

..and the picture during a 'poo' print is wonderful :D

Edit: did you print it in ABS? The part near the hotbed may too near for using PLA.

Hi, great Idea,
May I ask for a small mod?
A little more clearence to the support rods. So it would be possible to use hold down brackets, too.

Thank you

Sir, Can you please give me the firmware source files you are using. I have a ANET A8-B , I have tried many marlin and repetier from many sources, but no one is having right thirmister table or working code.

Please give me link or send me email at ajaybnl a t gmail