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Dual Action OTF Hidden Blade (Assassin Style)

by Stonedge Oct 24, 2016
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how does the mechanism attach to my finger? I want to know before I start this because Ive tried several other AC Blades but none of them work.

You need to print the ring(scale it to your finger size) and using a string (I use nylon fishing line) attach it to the rack (long part with teeth) and adjust/fine tune the length so it would fit the movement you looking for. Remember that you need to pull about 1"1/4 to trigger the system.


Video on how to put this thing together?

This thing will frustrate you for weeks until you realize that it could never, and will never function correctly. Dont waste your time :(

At which part did you encounter difficulties? I know that this project isn't an easy one, this is a complex system and friction is your enemy... But a lot of people as successfully build them... ive build a lot of those up to now (not even counting prototype) using the same files that i've published here. So honestly those are buildable without any doubts. Start by reading this comment section ... there a lot of helpfully hint and tricks... also depending of your printer precision , getting those blades fine tuned could require a lot of sanding /tunning ...


My first issue was the outer blade latches rubbing against the inside of the main body which contributed to most the friction when extending / retracting. If the latches were loose enough for the friction to be acceptable, the inner blade would pretty much never lock in the extended position. Next, the flippers on the front end would also cause significant friction against the blade during extension and no amount of sanding would improve that. The gear latch spring bit is far too flimsy to catch both sides of the gear, yet too resilient to allow the gear to reverse. I could never get those parts to function at all. Additionally, the top cover plate applied a ton of friction against the gear making the reverse motion stick most of the time, however sanding the gear helped with this. Finally, the string pull length is quite long and unless my hand was almost completely curled inward, it was impossible to pull the string far enough to trigger extension. The string positioning also means that it often collides with the blade on exit, stopping it short.

I redesigned most of the problematic parts (added a channel in the main body for the blade latches to pass through without friction, made a new gear ratchet, etc) but despite this Im still unable to get the whole thing to work reliably. Im printing on a Prusa Mk3S and all of the prints have been of superb quality but I think a lot of the design works against itself in terms of friction and placement :( I really want this to work but its been driving me nuts!

P.S. The main body included in here has a recessed area to allow the outer blade latches to extend, however it is too high on the right side and makes the latch extension near impossible. N.B.: This was fixed in ToaFox's version.

Hi mechanic403,

Great, with a prusa the printing precision is almost removed from the "posible" issue list. What slicer did you used? Did you compare thickness of part with the stl? I never encounter cover pressing to hard on ratchet so it could be related to slicer setting( even some user have thicker the ratchet because it was to loose for ther)

1: the outer blade latch should remain press during all the travel.. this are only useful at full extension... since the system is a launch->free->catch...  all the blade up to now have those latch frictionning with the body. If they generate to much friction... I would look at the rubber band... if it's just slightly overflow is track, the band would act as a rubber brake for the blade... so sanding the bottom of the rubber channel is require some time.  Did you use the ouchless type rubber band? Those would generate almost no pressure... But would lock the latch in place when inner blade is out of the way.

2: front flipper issue... look like your using too strong rubber here. ( did you used the recommended ouchless type?). Did you try the system without the front flipper installed? (Retraction would not work but extension would) did the blade extension work without issue? If not it's probably related to printing corner overflow... Did you sanded flat the inner side wall of the main body using a sanding stick (e.g. nail sanding stick)... printing process has tendency of overflowing corner, this made the blade to stuck when reaching flipper opening.

But... everything seem related to your launch power... how did you install your rubber band on the switch plate? Normally you should use the double hook version, hook one extremity of the rubber band to the first hook... go through the last hole in switch plate carriage and go back to the second hook of the switch plate... this rubber band must be a standard office supply and when install been close to his rupture point...

For the string issue, for myself I grab the wire with my two small finger before bending my hand back... this ensure that the wire is never in the path of the blade and limit the bending requirement...

I've look at your redesigned part, great work on the ratchet... I was looking to design something similar(But as usual using rubber band lol) ... the current third design of the ratchet is a little picky to make it work well... But my main issue is the lifespan of the pla spring... for the main body, I'm not sure if it would solve more issue that it would cause... you would probably end with more incomplete retraction/extension with that design since inner blade movement is unpowered in that system... good new is that would not be the case in the next design(**spoiler lol)

Humm... I would look at the main body stl... normally opening should be at the same height... maybe an stl mesh defect... or a human error! Thanks for the feedback.


Thanks so much for your thorough response! Ill take a look at each of your suggestions and hopefully thatll help me. If you ever try out my design Id love to hear what you think. Very much looking forward to your next design!
Thanks again

Hey there! I'm going to create the Predator Gauntlet and I was wondering if this could be adapted with the blades of the Predator... Do you think that it could works too with 2 parallel blades?

All depend of what do you mean by "two blade" ... making a double blade going out is possible but size is limited by the main body internal space.... if you could share a pic of what you're looking to achieve... it would help me to visualize options....


Here you go :) It is the same movement, dual action. I thought to make 2 of your hidden blade a put them vertical and parallel, or make a single mechanism but with two blades linked....

Hi Irukandji, I've look at the design you're trying to achieve... and without almost a complete redesign ... I could not figure out how to get that working.. the size /weight of the blade make that almost impossible using an launch->free->hook system as those assassin blade currently work...

If it was my project I would probably go with a wire + electric motor system...


Could you make an alternative model, that is for a non extended blade so a single piece blade?

This looks awesome btw! very well made.

As single blade design extend to a disappointing length... there some other design if you look around. But honestly if you look at my design an no extension blade would end his travel almost at the same distance than the outer blade(body length minus >an inch. I don't see any advantage of shorting up the blade( did i miss something?).So doing that kind of modifications would take time and I prefer working on my new extension design that should add almost 3inch of extension....


Ah okay yeah I suppose your design then is not optimised for it. The only benefit is strength and less complicated. But I agreed bon the fact that extended looks way cooler. I have to continue then working on my own design had some trouble with the string and wheel.

I've think about that overnight... and I think I could cad you something that could work out of the box.... the blabe would be a little beefy but I think it could be an great add on to that project.


hey i was working on printing this but i cant seem to find the inner blade latch file. It doesn't seem to be with the files you have included, not sure what is going on but if you could see whats going on that would be appreciated greatly.

The correct name for that part is outer blade latch... those latch are fixed on the other blade but lock the inner blade in place... so there's no inner blade latch... sorry to have been unclear.


Amazing Blade working on mine right now, small question though in step three of the assembly you say the blade should slide out under gravity force does this include the outer blade top and bottom as well or just the inner blade ? Because for me the friction of the inner blade latch stops the outer blade from slinding just by Gravity.
Which fully assembled means I just get the inner blade to slide out.
Its either that or I just need stronger elastic bands on the switchplate I think.

You're right! the blade should fully extend by itself (inner and outer) under gravity BUT when no latch install.... if the only thing that prevent the fully extension of your blade is the outer blade latch you're on the correct path :). yes those latch add some friction and this is a normal behavior.... but you should be able to extend it really easily with your hand.... if it's the case, great!

this test is only a way to be sure that no "show stopping" friction remains in your assembly... in that project friction is your enemy... and it's highly affected by the print quality/printer calibration... some need almost no sanding at all but others a lot is need to get them spot on...

Btw, once fully assembled the inner blade is lock in place by the main latch.... so it should not extend by themself.


PRINTING PSA: Print the inner blade latches rotated so that the hole is printed sideways, and printed as gaps in layers instead of the printer repeatedly printing a circular hole in each layer. Then, clean it out with a paperclip, maybe heat the paperclip for better effectiveness. It's a bit hard to explain, so see the attached picture.

Additional tips for this project:

  • Print the large pieces such as the main body, middle plate, and switch plate in PLA as this will HUGELY help with warping.
  • Sand the inside sides of the main body to reduce friction if the blade isn't coming out all the way.
  • Print all the tiny parts solid (100% infill)
  • Stick as many tiny parts as you can in one GCODE file if your printer can handle it without stringing or botching the prints.
  • Pay close attention to the pictures given at the top, they clarify a few seemingly mysterious things.
  • Make sure the top part of your outer blade does not have any warping whatsoever. If it does, it'll get stuck on the switch plate bits when going in and out and be a massive pain. Don't try to sand it, just reprint it with a brim or a raft.
  • If you have problems with small pins on things like the middle plate breaking off, print them solid. Yes, it's a fair bit of filament, but you'll also get the associated strength increase.
  • Do not hesitate to take sandpaper to anything that isn't moving smoothly. I use 210 grit for this.
  • Clean up the pins on the 4 flippers after printing to ensure that they move smoothly when in their proper holes.

Good luck assassins. Find your target, and bring them peace.

If you're using Cura, you could make the pins themselves solid, while making the rest of the part at your normal infill

I also recommend to print this part at a 0.1 layer. Thanks for helping other makers :)


No problem! Nice to see that you're still active! Can't wait for the instructional video, I bet it'll make this a much easier build for others. I always like to help people with my experiences so that they don't have to repeat them, and this is a really cool but difficult build.

Hey stonedge@@,i wonder how i link the blade with the ring,may i have a tutorial?

The ring must be attached to the end of a wire (I use fishing wire) and the other end of the wire must be attached to the rake(the long part with teeth that make the gear turn)... you must adjust the length of the wire to your needs...

I found that i can't print the outer blade bottom well,I already set the layer to 0.1 mm,but the printing of the space for rubber band still has problem.I can't print a rectangle shape but an oval shape.What can I do?

Are you talking about the channel under the part to receive the rubber band? If yes, this part doesn't need support... if you have set (or automatically set) support... remove it. This channel is supposed to be printed as bridge. Also since this part of the blade remain in the body all time, sanding could also be needed to clean out the channel using a small flat file...

Not sure what you mean by oval vs rectangular shape...

If you could add a picture... it would probably help me to help you out :)

Btw: this part (outer bottom blade) doesn't require to be printed in 0.1 layer... beside blade latch everything could be printed in .2 layer....


Well,thx a lot,as it can move well inside the main body while receiving rubber band ,i have already thrown it always.

Which side?outside or inside?thx

If your talking about left or right side of the blade, this design as been build to use any of them, rake could be install on left or right, this is a comfort adjustment.... this enable you to have both blade having the wire go out on the thumb side(my preferred setting)


Sorry,but i mean the upper or the lower

The largest end it the one that should received the fishing wire of the ring... the other end should received a rubber band to bring the rake back to his parked position...


Hey everyone! I noticed a lot of people were having some trouble making this, I finished mine and I will be releasing a video soon once I get the creator's permission! Hope this will help!

Is the video up yet?

Feel free to release your video! If it can help others :)... hope you're enjoying your new blade :)


Is this used with string and ring or with button?

This is a string and ring design, extension and retraction using the same motion...

so before i print this is there an assembly video that i can watch before i waste my time on building it. And any tips for after i print it

Hey! For everyone that has problems with friction, I realised the best way to minimize the friction is to
1) Sand some of the moving parts.
2) Use graphite (Pencil led) to lubricate the gears, etc.

Hope this helps!

@AryamanS04 Thanks for sharing those tips! I will try graphite for sure:)


Hey, so in the list that lists the parts needed for one arm blade, it talks about something called an inner-blade latch. I can't seem top find what this latch is or what it looks like. If you don't mind, could you help me out?

Sorry my bad the correct name is outer blade latch, not "inner". Thes are the latch that lock the inner blade in place when the blade is extended.


Great design, but I was just wondering that if these models could be scaled down. I printed the blade mechanism, and that alone takes around my entire forearm (i have tiny boy arms lol). Thanks.

Humm, could it be done... it's not impossible but.. if your take that path it could be really trial an error... since scaling down part would also scale down tolerance... during the design phase I've try to make it the most generic size possible. Even with those efforts, I've end with something little bigger than expected due to mechanical issue... so it's possible but I don't have any easy path to follow...


Understandable. Thank you for the reply, I'll still probably finish it at full scale, this isn't something that I will wear everyday lol, so I think the size wont be a problem. I realize that if i scale it down, some of the smaller parts like the blade latch would simply be too small for my 0.4mm nozzle to be printed accurately.

The inner blade latch with holes keeps failing to print, im not sure how to install the version with no holes, am I suppose to add holes to it or is there a different way?

Yes, the no hole version is for drilling the hole using a drill and the paperclip(or a really small drill bit)... for printing the one with hole ... what do you mean by falling? What is you nozzle size? For a part that small sometime lowering your print temp is a good idea, do you have a pla fan?


im useing the letch with no holes cuz my part keeps breaking any tips?

Are you talking about the outer blade latch?(really small part with a hole through its center) if yes here my tips... first this part should be printed on his back ( with the hole in horizontal position)... also it's better to print that part in 0.1 layer resolution if possible... also depending of the size of your paperclip... it's better to heat the paper clip with a lighter before putting it through... using this trick would help you to adjust the hole size to your paperclip size...

If those tips are not what you looking for reply me back with more detail of your issue...


how is the video going?

I've printed all my required part... remains me to start making it :)

where can i get the rubber bands?

You need two type of rubber band for that project, first type is standard office rubber band... I've take mine in a Dillard store (mixed size office rubber band bag) . The other type is small rubber band for hair (ouchless type) if you look in my previous answer in this comment section you would see an Amazon link of what I used... but I take mine at the same dollar store in the hair brush/ accessories section.


I have somewhat sorted out the ratchet latch spring. The problem I'm having now is that the material is too stiff for the gear rack to be returned by the elastic. If it was the same style as in the picture that uses a spring it may work better. It is supposed to be the S style 'spring' or like the one in the picture showing two separate pieces?

The picture show an old version (the one with two separated piece) ... you're right the pla spring is the correct part, if the rubber band didn't have enough force to unhook it... the pla spring is probably too stiff in the wheel channel... sand the pla spring to made it loose in his place... you could also print it using abs which is more flexible... but most of the blade that I've build use standard pla for the s spring... did you used some sort of pla + or reinforced pla?


I am not sure what it was printed with. Pretty sure it is not ABS. But in general the S spring is quite stiff. The spring does fit in loosely, but it is the stiffness of it that does not allow it to work as intended. I can try to sand down the S part to make it more flexible. I would have thought that the original design using the two parts and spring would be a better working part. The spring(original) would only require the one force to overcome(compression) where the S design requires more of a complex force.

In the parts files you have listed ratchet latch plate. There is nothing in the instructions as to where it goes or how it goes in. Can you shed some light on this for me please.

What's the overall dimensions of the it when its fully assembled?

About 210mm long , 25mm high and 50mm large(by memory)... since all the part goes in the main body check the dimension of that part for a precise idea...


Looks like a great design, but the limited instructions made me fail to assemble it. A few more pictures would have been great.
My son wanted me to make it, but I guess he has to wait for the assembly video.

At which step are you stuck? I could probably post some missing pictures...i know it's not an easy but once you see/understand it's inner working... it's strait forward...

For the video , I'm travelling next two week so I will work on it once I'm back...


Thanks for the offer. In the meantime I think I figured it out, with the help of a video I found online of a similar blade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Acz8580PciI
I still have not been able to make it work perfect, due to a lot of difficulties with the rubber bands and the two little flippers but I am getting there :-)
Thanks again, you have put a lot of work into this.

The similare blade you are talking about is a remix of my design (take a look in the remix) ... happy to ear that you've got through your main issues... most of the issue are normally related to friction... so little more sanding :)


i have printed out all the parts just waiting for you to do the video of the parts and where the bands go , really like the design and cant wait to get it all built up .

I VERY much want to make one of these.

Do you have an assembly video?

Not yet, I'm in the process of printing one complete assembly in blue... so detail and rubber band would be visible on screen...

waiting on this too bud.

uhmm i was wondering what parts do i need like there are so many files and i dont know what ones i need really

Currently here what you need for a proved working design using rubber band:

Main body low friction x1
Main flipper x4
Switch plate double hook x1
Switchplate double hook carriage x2
Blade latch x2
1x all others (outer bottom , outer top, inner blade, middle plate, middle plate carriage, ratchet(rack,pla spring,wheel,pin,gear) and cover)

I know that this list is long but it's caused by the mechanical complexity


what blade latch do you mean? there no file just named blade latchx2

Filename is outer-blade-latchx2 . By the way when a file name end by x# (e.g.. x2) it show the number of copy you need for a single blade assembly.


for the middle plate carriage, i cant find it is it under a different filename?

Sorry the correct name is middle plate latch...

thanks for your help

Is it a good idea to print this with Thingverse's "Print a Thing" app? Any known issues? I've set infill to 20% and "layer thickness" to ">.2mm", wondering if its good to go.

In any case, great design. Thanks for sharing it with everyone.

I don't have any experience with print a thing... but I know that multiple poeple used it with that design(since I received a notification anonymously... so I don't know who it is) .

Normally I recommend some of the small part to be printed with smaller layer(eg.outer blade latch) but since they probably use makerbot printer there precision should be higher than Chinese consumer grade printer...

If you have only one setting for all part I would recommend a 0.15 layer ... but I have some blade at .2 for all the part and they work well... only some more sanding and adjustment....


How did you print the flippers ? At what orientation ? Do I try to lay them flat or vertically ?

All those part as been printed using standard printer using 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height the only exception is the outer blade latch that have been printed at 0.1 layer positioned as explained in previous message.


If you're talking about the main body latch, yes they should be printed lay flat on the side ... If you're talking about the outer blade latch, they should be printed with the hole horizontal laying on their flat side.


Could be possible to make the inner blade holder a bit longer and put the inner circle a bit futher so the blade can extend more? I feel is still a bit shorter than it should, the original in-game blade is almost 1 finger longer than the hand size once it's out

Gonna print this soon with my first 3D printer, thanks for the modifications :D


BTW: Does the blade beat gravity? i mean, what holds the inner blade if i put it looking down?

I know the the in game design is longer, but mechanically with this kind of design ... this is the longest functional blade I could achieve... I have started working on a new mechanical system the would enable to print a longer version... but currently it's only at the prototype stage and a lot of problem remains to be fix.

For the gravity beating the answer is Yes, this design could beat gravity using rubber band system but required that you print all the blade part lightest as your printer is able... not more than 10% of infill and less wall/top/bottom possible.... all depend of your printer calibration and capability... also friction in that design is your enemy... beat it to last bit of it...

Remember that an half stretch standard rubber band need to be able to throw the blade vertically at a height equal the fully extended blade length


The ratchet latch, if you mirror it then can I Put it on my right hand?

You don't need to mirror any part to reverse hand... simply install part reverse: ratchet pla spring and middle plate latch. And install the rack on the other side of the body... the blade as been design for both hand. :)


one quick question, how heavy is this when fully printed?

Good question probably around 150g to 200g depending of num of shell, paint, infill, etc... per blade


After installing rubber band on the blade, the inner blade move freely but the outer blade is almost not moving in the base.
Second issue that after installing rubber band on the locks , blade not moving out but moving in, like front flippers are blocking the movement of the blade.
Can you please pinpoint me on amazon witch rubber to use on flippers and switch plate?
and maybe spring version?
Thank you in advance!!!

Here an example of the needed rubber band for latch of the blade and main latch (I found this at the dollar store, black): https://www.amazon.ca/Goody-Elastics-01046-Clear-Assorted/dp/B005CSYTCU?th=1&psc=1

For the middle plate I used standard office rubber band... but small one... they should be really stretched and must not stand out of the middle plate when you look at it from the side...


Comments deleted.

Please make a phantom blade! I love this design

I will look at it, it could be added to the design as a cover replacement... interesting...


What is the size of the largest part

The longest part have 207mm... this design has been build to be doable over a standard reprap(200x200) so the longest part should be set in diagonal ...


What's next for this project? I have printed out all of the parts and attempted the assembly multiple times. Most things seem to be okay, but mine just won't work. The instructions are unclear, specifically where and how the rubber bands are attached. When the switch plate is inserted is the carriage at the back of the blade supposed to be fully extended (or is the rubber band supposed to be stretched out? All in all, I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around how it works, and more pictures of the assembly would be appreciated, maybe a file with pictures of each step? I know it is a work in progress and that is keeping you from making a video, but you could definitely update pictures with rubber band placement if necessary.

I'm in the process of printing a colored one so I will be able to take pictures with rubber band in place... black rubber band are not visible over black part...


I am having a problem with the blade as it is not sliding out correctly can you suggest what rubber band to use for the small and strong

I've bought a bag of mixed size rubber band in a dollar store. The trick is to find one that reach his maximum extension when the middle plate latch is a little more that half out of the middle plate... just to be sure that rubber band must be hooked on the middle plate go through the latch hole and hooked back to the second hook of the middle plate.

If all this is the case, you probably have a friction issue, be sure that the blade could extend and retract by itself only under gravity... if not some sanding is required ...

If this explanation is unclear feel free to ask questions.


To anyone who has problem getting the mechanism of this blade working, my suggestion is to print all the part using SLA/DLP printer.

This is the setting that I've used to print most of the part for this hidden blade

Layer Thickness = 0.025mm
Normal Exposure Time = 7 secs
UV light Off Time = 5 secs
Bottom layer = 3
Bottom exposure time = 60 secs

Resin printer is my next project :), for sure I will test it... but up to now all the blade I've made up to now as been printed over fdm printer (i2, i3, tarantulas, widow , hypercube). Depending of the printer calibration, more or less sanding required... for sure some of the smallest part are a little tricky to print (slower print speed) .

Surely if I own both printer I will probably go with the resin one for gear, latch, rack and spring ...

So probably easier using resin printer... but not required for sure :)


Instructions should be updated. It doesn't tell you how to assemble the ratchet gear at all... Help :(

in the instructions. it is saying that if it doesnt eject it may be the rubber bands or i need to sand more. which areas should i sand down? my rubber bands are all nice and tight. but when i slide the one piece (the slider with the rubber bands connected to it) forward the blade only ejects like half an inch. any ideas anybody?

Ok, I think you're talking about the switchplate carriage... did you use the double hook version? So the two end of the rubber band is hooked to the switch plate and the middle of it goes through one of the opening of the carriage...

First thing first, if you put your blade in the body and the switch plate over it ( no latch) did the blade freely slide in And out easily under gravity ( preferred at small angle)... if not... it's a sanding / friction issue... if yes... probably your switch plate rubber band are not stretch enough (too long) or too weak....

Start debugging on a flat surface first (as in the gif animation)... if there's no latch installed, the blade should slide in and out almost by itself ...

Did you have the problem in both directions?


hey mate, is there any way you could do a remix of the cover plate so that it emulates the blackflag "edward kenway" blade?

There's always possibility of skinning the blade body cover ( adding a skull and some gold line) to make it look kenway pirate style, but kenway's blade are single blade extension type... so depends of what you wish to achieve...

Would you be willing to model just the cover to resemble that? Or would the Ubisoft blade screw onto this housing?

Love the design but for the people who want to print this, I wouldn't recommend printing in ABS. When I printed in ABS I had good bed adhesion but after the bed cooled down I had slight curvature in the long pieces which was causing enough friction to not let it fully deploy. I'm reprinting in PETg and I having way better results.

Thanks for the feedback, the only part I would recommend you to keep in abs is the "pla spring" (I know I must change the name of that part Lol)... printed in abs seems to have a longer life span... Happy to ear that you like the design :)


Thanks for the warn ! I will check what I could do about it... it's always sad to see that kind of action.... I only ask for attributions.... But it's seems to be too much for some... :(

yo straight up there is a video if it working linked to the page... its definitely the same one

Wow. The guy even claims that they are his designs in his videos.

What is the spring even used for? I can't find it in the instruction assembly. Also, would this work if I had someone make a metal blade with the same dimensions? I know that everyone is asking for it, but a video would really help.

i built this thing a while ago, i would not suggest making the blade out of metal. the outer blade is already very weak. i had to reprint the outer blade many times because very thin plastic and the small knob that keeps the blade in would constantly break and that's only with a plastic blade that was almost hollow. adding the weight of a metal blade would destroy the outer blade, you would have to make that part out of metal as well, which would require stronger rubber bands, which would probably require a stronger switch plate (meaning you would also have to make that out of metal). the stronger rubber bands would also require stronger switch plate carriages (meaning again you guessed it, more metal parts you would have to make). in short if you wanted to switch the blade for metal, you would have to make almost every other main part out of metal as well. as for the spring. its used so that the gear can spin if you wanted to be able to just pull the string twice to open then close the blade

Great reply jordan250, i agreed... Making that system in metal would be hard, the push/weight would be hard to achieve... But not impossible. You will need to use spring instead of rubber... Since none of the rubber band available would have enough power to beat gravity with a metal blade.

If you're looking at the metal finish, aluminum tape used for ventilation dock would give you an easy and impressive result.... If you looking for a true blade... Some work would be necessary...

Do you have a video of the assembly of this? Just so we can reference where the rubber band goes along with your instructions.

What would you suggest if I have to slice the bigger files for a smaller print bed?

All depends of the size of the bed... On a standard 200x200 the biggest part would normally fit in diagonal.. But if your bed is smaller... The best cut would probably be at the closest possible of the closed end of the main body... Since junction would probably conflicts with blade sliding... How much did you need to cut to fit your bed?

I have a circular print bed and a working area of about 110mm diameter :/ it would be 150 ish but the calibration around the edges isn't perfect

Ok ... Hummm... First did you try marlin ubl? (That feature was designed to help with cheap delta with that kind of issues.. ) and over that printer what is the max z ( height)?

About 310, though I wouldn't push it past around 270. And yeah, cheap Anycubic delta xD My first printer so yeah. I'm using marlin firmware but I think the problem is my rail assembly. It's a little too high so the print head cant reach the extremes of the bed. A little lazy to reassemble it just yet

you should make a youtube video about it, and how to put it together. Then put it in thing details

yes you really should because i don't know how to do it

You're stuck at which step? Yes i know a lot of people ask for it... But that project remain a work in progress... Fully functional but I'm working over enhancement prior to finalize with an instructional video.... Normally written instructions (in the post printing) should get you close to completion... Where are you in the building process?

im going to atttempt to build this m8 will ask you if i need help thanks for always helping us! God bless you

I'm having a bit of trouble with the blade assembly. The blade latches keep snapping when I try to put anything thru them. I've rotated the part so the hole is now horizontal, not vertical. Hopefully that fixes that issue. The other major problem is the rubber band and the latches. Should the rubber-band push the round end or the sharp end of the latches out of the OB top and bottom? right now the sharp end toward the blade tip is popping out to the side but only on one side of assembly. Should I sand the low friction main body inner channel or the latches?

The rubber band should push the round side out... From the latch pivot point of view the round side of the latch should pop out the blade on the not cutting side of the blade

Thanks man. Any advice on getting the PLA spring to work? Mine works when I pull the string forward (usually) but instead of the rubber band pulling the rack back it stays fully extended forward, because the spring wont collapse back and allow the gear to freely spin. Without the spring my gear spins freely

Here some advice about the pla spring... When it's engaged in the gear ( at rest) the spring isn't supposed to be compressed at all... Also when the spring slide in main wheel channel... It should slide freely... I sand the flat side of the spring hook...

Some use plastic compatible grease... But i never got a situations that sanding didn't solved the issue..

Be sure that the pla spring lock the main wheel at the opposite rotation direction than the middle plate latch...

Pla spring has better life span if it is printed in light color...(by experience)

Abs is also an option for the pla spring (i know the name said pla...)


I was a little afraid you'd recommend more sanding lol. but I have a printed about dozen springs so I'll try to sand them some more. I tried to round off the corner at the beginning of the slope. In the hopes that when the rack starts to pull back it would have a slightly easier path. Also FYI I'm noticing that where the S shape meets the sections that fit into the gear, keeps becoming a point of failure when compressed. I'll do some more sanding and when I have time try to modify the spring design . Otherwise thanks man and keep up the good work

so i have it built to the end of the instructions, but how do i now add the gears in place and make it activated with my finger? it works when i push the switchplate.

If you look at the second picture of the step 6 you would see an assembled ratchet system... Here a quick explanation... You must glue the main wheel pin in place (round pin in the main wheel round hole... Normally it's a tight fit...) once that done... Insert the middle plate latch, spring load it using a small rubber band between the three tower. Insert the main wheel. Inside the square opening of the main wheel put the pla spring. Now install the ratchet gear. You're almost done... Remain the ratchet rack... On one side of the rack attach a rubber band and hook it to the tower at the end of the rack track. On the other side attach a string ( which would be later attached to a ring of you choice for triggering the system) watch out the direction you put the pla spring it must free the wheel when the middle plate latch lock it...

Now close the cover and enjoy it!

Excuse me?I got in trouble.the Inner blade Latch is too small for my 0.4 printer,it's even impossible to put a needle there.and the spring is hard and easy to break.

For the spring: i know that the current name is pla spring but... Recommended to be printed using white pla (or light color) or abs...
For the latch i could certify those could be printed on a printer with a .4 nozzle (all my main printer have those nozzle) but i agreed that those are little tricky... They must be printed slowly in .1 layer with the hole horizontal... So the latch flat (Hole less) facing the bed... And no support... Normally you would end with functional latch that way... Hope it help


BTW currently the ratchet spring as a lifetime of about a month of use by experience (when printed in pla) so normally i print some spare and take them with me.... But I'm currently testing it with abs with good result up to now... Also i want to test something like pla+

I've printed in pla+ and once used you will never go back to just normal pla as it's got all the properties of abs and pla combined. Best filament yet in my opinion
I also printed the whole project at 50% speed I was in no rush and all the parts came out very clean and very little clean up.

Thanks for the feedback, i would test it for sure!

I'm having trouble printing the main body. The tiny inner circles don't stick on the initial layer, but the rest of everything goes down perfectly (even on other models), so I know I have it calibrated and bed leveled. Is there something I'm missing?

Slow down your first layer speed a lot.... This should solve the small circle adherence issue.... I didn't experienced this issue on any of my printer so it's probably related to your calibration...

Most of the slicer enable you to set a speed for the first layer independently to the rest of the part...

Just to be sure... You talking about the four small hole that hold the main latch exact?

If it's the case... I would probably not worry too much about missing 1 or 2 layer of them... The critical part of that hole is the top of it....



Yes, I'm referring to the 4 inner circles that hold the latches.

I do have my initial layer speed at half my print speed. In Cura it's set to 26.5 mm/s, and I believe I tried as slow as 15 mm/s with the same result. Do you think I need to try even slower than that?

It's probably also worth noting that I'm using a vertex bed liner for better adherence, as well.

Thank you so much for taking time to reply with help! I greatly appreciate it!

Comments deleted.

How does the forward SWITCH PLATE CARRIAGE pass over the top of the OUTTER BLADE TOP without getting snagged on the rubber band going around the OUTTER BLADE when it is extended?

There a funnel for the outer blade rubber band to rest, also the knob on the switch plate carriage ( used for launching the blade) didn't go all way down to the bottom of the track (for limiting friction) ... So the rubber band is completely enclosed and wouldn't create fiction in the system... But you must use ouchless type hair rubber band since they are slimmer than usual office rubber band.

I can tell a lot of work went into this. Thank you.

Can some one make a video on how to put this together

I'm having a problem getting the blade to extend all the way. The front main flippers is slowing it down too much. If I remove the main flippers rubber band, it will extend all the way, but with the rubber on, there is too much friction. Any advice?

Comments deleted.

Some use lubricants but for my part i used weak rubber band and sanding.... Honestly there's no need to have strong band for those main flipper.... Be sure that your outer blade side is flat ( no bump...) ... If it's already the case... Try stronger band for the switch plate band.... When i build blade the switch plate band that i use are (at rest) almost fully extended... And be sur to use the double hook version with one folded in two rubber band for each carriage...

Thanks for the reply. Greatly appreciated. I got the OTF mechanism working. You're right, weaker rubber bands did the trick. I can't seem to get the rack and gear to work. It is extremely difficult to pull on the rack. I broke the spring and the main wheel spring retainer already trying to pull it. Any trick to get this working?

What do you mean by:"breaking the main wheel spring retainer" ... If you talk about the center of the ratchet main wheel!!! The only way that came to my mind is wrong latch rotation lock... Look at the picture in post print section.... When you pull the string, the pla spring should be hooked and the middle plate latch should be releasing the wheel... And when the rack is pull back by the rubber band it should be reverse ( pla spring free, MP latch hook)...

If that is correct, you have ratchet system friction issue... Sanding required!

I've managed to fix that with a slightly larger gear and wheel. I'd also recommend swapping the pla spring for a metal one as the pla version doesn't work very well. You can experiment on your own or download my version (Ezio edition). Hopefully that should help.

Greeting Stonedge, Do you has any planing to create another version that use spring instead of rubber band? I live in tropical country and rubber band tend to worn out/harden faster here

Yes! I've ordered a kit of multiple size tension and compression spring... In the waiting of them... My main focus remain over rubber since i prefer design that i could print without ordering specific spring or part... But the single hook switch plate as been designed with spring in mind instead of rubber band... But until i get my spring this design is untested...

I just ordered several 2mm extension spring and tested the single hook version and I believe the grove for both switch plate and carriage need to be increase around 0.2 to 0.5mm so it will give the spring some space to extend

edit btw, if anyone just stumble upon a spring with 1mm outer diameter, please post the link here. 1mm OD spring might do the trick with the current design

HELP! I am having a really hard time with assembly in terms of the blade latch with the rubberband and the gear with the main wheel! I have been fiddling with it for a few days and cant seem to figure it out :( Could someone post pictures or a short video? Or even some more detailed directions in those two spots would be super appreciated!

I can't help with the rubber bands as mine currently aren't the best but for the wheel and gear try making the wheel 0.5mm wider and the gear 1mm wider, or download the versions I uploaded on my remix. I found that the versions here will skip over the teeth when attempting to extend the blade.

Thanks for the help guys! It seems that I cannot find the wheel locks file but I will try downloading again and comment back if i have any more problems!

That strange, I've try to replicate teeth skip over my printed version... And I'm unable to do so... could be related to printing setting.... with all the tolerance added I reach an maximum of ~0.8 mm clearance, with teeth of 3mm deep ... I'm unable to skip teeth once part are in the system... but I've modify the ratchet wheel and gear so now there's a little more space for the pla spring to hook to the gear... ( which append time to time to miss hook or release in the middle of motion.

Strange, on my first attempt the retraction would work fine but on extension the gear would push away from the rack and slip over some of the teeth. Thickening the wheel and gear slightly did fix this but it's strange that you didn't have this problem when you designed it.

I'd still reconmend swapping the pla spring for two latches with a metal spring between them. I found that works perfectly where as the tolerance of the pla spring made it either too rigid to flex in or too warped to spring back out. In every instance the pla spring eventually snapped in two from the stress or warped inwards to the point where it wouldn't extend anymore.

Older version of the blade was using a double latch model push by rubber band...but it was not that reliable... I currently agree than the pla spring wear through the time...slower of faster depending of the pla quality/maker and tension... I'm currently testing it over other material (abs and rubberized pla/tpu/tpe) ... One quick trick is to be sure that the spring is not compresse at all when it's engage in the gear wheel... the pla spring tend to wear a lot faster if it constantly under tension...

I would reprint that ratchet system over another printer to do some test... could be related to some printing issue(eg. over extrude one my printer..)

I printed the pieces and they came out great I'm just having trouble assembling it all. I can't figure out how to put the gear to the wheel or get the rubber band around the blade latch to sit properly (because the rubber band goes beneath the outer blade bottoms and thus rubs against the floor of the body so it won't slide)

Ah, yeah that's an issue with Stonedge's design. There should be a cannal just like on the top half where the band sits in but he must've accidently uploaded a version that doesn't have it. If you check my remix version I've included a fix for that piece (I have done one in this style too if you prefer it over Ezio's). It's likely that you also have a mistake on the main body too so check and make sure the two gaps for the blade locks are the same height, if they're not then again I have fixed that in my version.

As for the wheel, you want to insert the pin through the small hole on the edge of the wheel so that the thicker side is facing the non flat side of the wheel and the pin is sticking out of the flat side, then use some glue to keep it in place. Next take your gear locks and insert them in the gaps in the circle construction on the top of the wheel. Finally put the gear around of the same circle and insert the whole thing into the middle casing. If you haven't already there is also a small lock tab that will slide into a gap next to the circle hole on the middle casing.

The wheel should only turn in one direction now, as the locks will grip one way and push in the other way.

Toa_Firox is Right ! the last version of the outer blade bottom was missing a channel for the rubber band... i've just upload the correct version.

Are you going to release the CAD files so we can modify them ourselves?
Would love to cut the main body and gears out of aluminium

Since I'm actively working over it, I planned to release them once the r&d process completed...I would be happy to se a version in alu! ... but currently the main body as not been design perfectly to be cnc out of aluminium( I think about the release pocket for the outer blade latch) but could be modified easily so it could be made using material over the top substraction process...

I was wondering why are the "caves"in the mainbody for the outerblade latch differens hights?

This is probably related to a mesh defects or an error from myself... I will look at it... thanks for the feedback... (standard or the low friction one?)

the low friction

So just posting a comment as per-request of stonedge referring to the issues people encounters with the PLA spring. I am just going to paraphrase and expand slightly.

Firstly the color of your PLA filament can determine how well your PLA spring works, for example darker colors such as black, grey ect, will struggle to compress due to their density, this is most likely due to their "high concentration of carbon". There are two options to fix this issue.

The first being switch your PLA filament for one of a lighter color, Although If you only have dark colored filament stonedge recommends that you sand the edges of the PLA spring which come in contact with the ratchet when it spins counter clockwise and retracts the cable. In layman's terms you want to smooth the edge which already has a curve in. NOT the flat edge.

i hope that helps :-)

Thanks BP94 for taking time to write that up :) ! It would certainly be usefull to many blade makers !

Could you maybe create a printing plater for the different iterations (or at least the current one)? It would be very helpful.

Since the design is evolving at a fast pace, it's hard to keep plater stl up2date... I agree that I need to made that thing a little cleaner... since I couldn't create folder or branch or at less file tag... it's hard to fulfill all makers request... some want the bleeding edge , since other want specific proved version...

A will look further to made selection easier...

Currently here what you need for a proved working design using rubber band:

Main body low friction x1
Main flipper x4
Switch plate double hook x1
Switchplate double hook carriage x2
Blade latch x2
1x all others (outer bottom , outer top, inner blade, middle plate, middle plate carriage, ratchet(rack,pla spring,wheel,pin,gear) and cover)

I know that this list is long due to the complexity of the mechanism...

I'm currently working actively to minimize sanding and solving small issue so when that design would be finalized would make some...


Dude i know it is still a work in progress but can we please get a new instruction set and video?

hey stonedge

Im finished !!! its fully working !!!!! once i make it look pretty XD i will post a "made" of it :-) i am also gonna drop a tip since this is the best design out there !!!

i was also wondering if i could "commission" you to make some alterations for me ?
i.e. custom blade shape (of my design), switch plate alteration (large rubber bands) and potential blade length increase (depending if my design concept is plausible).
So if you can help me out, im happy to chat about payment, i.e how much:-)

many thanks for all your hard work :-)) and being so vocal on here :-)

Tip sent dude that took me ages to find the tip button XD anyway have a drink on me !!

Thanks for the appraisal! Happy of your results and the fact that you enjoy the final product! There countless hours and prototype to reach that point... so I really enjoy that type of feedback! And thanks for the tip!

I'm already working on improvement features and style mod...

For the blade length I'm working on a new mechanism that would provide longer blade( and it would work in the current body :) )

I'm really open to design improvement ideas so depending of what you want feel free to ask here or over pm...

Thanks again, those feedback drive me to continue on those project!

Most of these parts are too small to print with a 0.4 nozzle. Any one else able to do it?

I've printed all of them using a 0.4 nozzle, over 4 different printer (replicator 2x, tarantulas, flsun delta, prusa i2) , I've printed all of them at 0.2 layer height ( I recommend 0.1 for some of them but it's not required anymore since they work OK in 0.2)

With which part did you encounter issue? (Probably inner blade latch?)

I got it working. Just slowed it way down.

Hey, Stonedge

Quite a nice job, really

I was wondering what materials should I use to print that PLA or ABS?
I guess the latch-PLA-string thing has to be obv made of PLA?

Up to now I've almost only print them in pla, since pla was used as bushing in one of my first reprap , I conclude that was a good choice for friction application like this one...

Abs is easier to sand but would probably wears faster...

So by experience I would go with pla but beside wrapping ( some of those part are big) I don't see issue to go with Abs...

If you go with Abs, keep me informed of the result... as far as I remember I never print a complete prototype with Abs yet... I add this to my to do :)... this is a shame considering the number of time I've printed them! Lol I have hills of prototype part laying everywhere in my 3d printer room lol

Thanks for that reply! Glad to see that you are active and willing to help. I'm gonna print the blade this week. I will sure leave some feedback)

Also I think that everyone who wants to print this version of the Hidden Blade would appreciate a kind of video tutorial of how to put the parts together. Think of it on your free time :D

I've been looking into places that print with polypropylene. Not too many places that offer it yet. There are a few though.

Not sure that pp would be a good material for that project... as far as I know it's a high wrapping material with semi crystalline properties... seems that it would be hard to reach good quality of the big part without a impressive 3d printer setup... but if you go down that road keep me informed! I'm interested to know the final result!

In "exotic" material I would probably look a nylon... probably a good choice for friction application like this one ..

I hadn't even considered nylon.Thanks!

Can you use a string to activate/deactivate it?

The ratchet rack as an opening at the end to attach a string to it (I use 40lbs fishing line for that). Attach it to the ring of your choice and you're ready to go :).

I would post a printable ring design for it but currently any ring would do the job

So the short answer is yes :)

Thanks, I'm going to print it whenever I can.

hey stonehenge

i was wondering if you could offer some advice, i have printed and sanded all the pieces my fingers where red raw by the end ahah, and it works perfectly up-until i add the "ratchet-mainwheell, rachect-gear,ratchect-latch-pla-spring and the ratchet pivot" it just about throws the bade out but it does not pull the blade back into place, upon further inspection i found that the switch plate does not fully release the front "main flippers", as if i push the main flipper just a little bit, its pushed to full release and the blade is retracted.
it seems that the "switchplate" needs to start curving earlier and needs to full disengaged the "main flippers".

is there any advice you could offer to fix this issue ? as i may be perceiving the issue completely wrong XD

ive spent about a week on this issue and for the life of me cannot figure out what to do :-(

thanks in advance if you are able to help :-)

just to summarize if peeps hate reading paragraphs XD,:: it works perfectly when i get to the same finished point in your gif, once i add the release mechanism it stops working :-(

I've just re-up the file.... sorry for that again...

You're right, the issue came from tolerance that I've add to the switch plate part... if you look closely through the faceplate opening you would see that the leg move slightly to the center (due to the spacing for the switch plate carriage or sometime too much carriage sanding...)... I've encountered this issue and solve it... but it seems that I forgot to upload the updated part... sorry, my bad... the good news is there a ways to solve this issue without replacing the switch plate... sanding lol...

The way that I've solve it was to sand ( rounding a little) the half bottom of the inner edge of the two main flipper (not the top where the switch plate push) ... that way the flipper unlock the blade a little earlier and everything start to work...

I don't have my cad currently... I would upload the fixed version of the switchplate tomorrow... again sorry for that .. My bad.

Next time don't wait a week before asking! And thanks for the feedback! It's always fun to know that people make them!

Sorry for the late reply, I've just come off holiday, anyway I won't be able to print until tomorrow but thank you so much for the help hopefully the fixed part works ! :)

Thanks again :-)!

OMG i didn't want to print this thing without seeing it working first, i didn't see the pictures and gif of it working until today. im going to start printing tomorrow. any other tips and or tricks you would suggest? also how long did it take you in total to print everything? edit: also has the low friction main body been tested yet?

Also, use the pla spring and not the 2x ratchet latch, lot easier to use and more constant result. Don't forget to sand pla spring extremities the printing process round up corner and it's important that the hook surface are completely flat...

Tips: friction is your enemy... sanding is you best friend... 95% of the issue that I've encountered with those blade was solved by sanding.... Get some sand paper... and optionnally sanding stick ( nail one work great too)...

All part must be able to move freely before starting final assembly... when no rubber band install the blade should fully extend and fully retract under gravity force...

I've done my best with cad tolerance to limit to the maximum the need of sanding.. But the printer precision have the final word....so sanding effort may vary... from very little to average...

I use sp 60 and 220 ...

I've almost always printed them with 3wall and 10-15% filling...

Printing the blade with silver plastic is great too...

The low friction body should work, it's a small modification of the original body design... I would go whit that one. I didn't made extensive test over it but I printed it once and I have a working blade builded with it... my only concern is over long term... since it have less contact surface, it could wear faster... but no issue with the proto up to now....

Also if you encounter issue feel free to ask your question here... those info would help other makers :)

How big are the peices? I would really like to print this, but I'm not sure my printer is big enough.

This model should print over standard reprap bed(200x200) the tricky body part should be print at 45deg angle on the bed since they reach ~210mm... What is your printer model?

it's a 101 hero. 150x150.

Humm I didn't find z max dimension for your printer.... since its a delta , if you have enough z distance... it could probably be print vertically(would require more sanding) ... I could on my flsun delta... but never tested it...

I'm loving the design so far got most pieces printed and running smoothly.
I also had trouble printing the blade latches in that the slicer (S3D) could not produce a small enough hole so created a weird C shape.

Tonight i will try printing in a different orientation IE the hole parallel with the build plate.

Is there any chance you could send me a picture or upload a diagram of where the upper blade elastic band is fitted as i cant get my head round how it sits flush with the OB BOTTOM piece

Wow sorry kelador! It's seems that I've missed your comment! Seriously sorry for late reply... Ok the outer blade rubber band goes all around the two outer blade part in the channel... the blade latch should go outside of the rubber ring, so the bottom part of the latch is push out by the rubber band(small ouchless hair rubber band)...

I've already uploaded a picture showing the outerblade on his side with rubber band installed and latch...

In my animated gif of the blade you could see it working... the only problem is that I have only black rubber band so the color of the band match the part color...

Hay no worries. I did think that but the lower part of the outer bled i printed has no channel???????

This is strange, if you look at the cad you would seen the Chanel... you've printed it at which layer height? Also if you printed it with a brim , it could be the issue...

During prototyping, I've used a metal hacksaw to make this channel... is not that difficult so it could also be a solution...

I'm loving watching the progress on this design. Keep up the great work! Hopefully you will have it smoothed out soon. Gonna need to print 4 of these.

Thank you for the encouragement, it is always great to know that there is interest about my projects

is it possible for you to add a video of it working? BTW this is super cool :)

Sorry for the delay of answer... I've just uploaded the ratchet latch (pla spring) so it didnt required a rubber band anymore... an it seem a lot more stable... was after that part you was waiting or the blade latch? I also uploaded a blade latch without hole (need to be drill manually)... but normally it should print nicely ... I'm able to print them over 3 different printer without issue...

And yes the coverplate.stl part is a blank cover that goes over the gears system.... currently only a blank one...

So have you fixed it yet? I have a very small time frame where I can print an HB and yours is the best one I've seen so far. Would it be possible for you to have it fixed by the 5th of January?
Thank you.

the OuterBlade-Latch-x2.stl file doesn't print as one peace with the hole in the center. the hole makes my printer print the part in 2 peaces can you please advise or update the part.
Thank You

That strange... so you end whit the part split in two? Have you try to print it on his back? (Hole horizontal) ... I don't have this behaviour on my printers... which slicer did you use? Printer model? Nozzle size? Layer height?... I'm currently working to fix them to make them stronger since those small part are easy to break... and I would also release a new design of the ratchet latch (easier to install)...

So have you fixed it yet? I have a very small time frame where I can print an HB and yours is the best one I've seen so far. Would it be possible for you to have it fixed by the 5th of January?
Thank you.

So have you fixed it yet? I have a very small time frame where I can print an HB and yours is the best one I've seen so far. Would it be possible for you to have it fixed by the 5th of January?
Thank you.

So have you fixed it yet? I have a very small time frame where I can print an HB and yours is the best one I've seen so far. Would it be possible for you to have it fixed by the 5th of January?
Thank you.

Also, is there a top to the gear system? I mean a veneer for it. Because I didn't see one in the tutorial. Thanks

Sorry, not veneer. Stupid autocorrect. What I meant to say was cover. Is there a cover to the gear system?

Sorry, not veneer. Stupid autocorrect. What I meant to say was cover. Is there a cover to the gear system?

Comments deleted.

can i watch how to assemble it?

Can you please post a video of assembly/functionality? I have been looking for a good duel action hidden blade for some time and I would like to see it work if I am to make this (after many failed attempts).

He has all the instructions written out in the details section with pictures :)

The blade is impressive but without video tutorial or photos of the assembly is impossible friend for more that I try not do with the system

and i didnt get alot of the small parts what should i do in order to get them

Could you give me some detail? which part? issue printing them? part of the how-to that unclear? hope I could help you with that... i'm in the process to add cad screen shot to made the how-to easier to understand... A picture is worth a thousand words... so i would start with screen shot :)

you need to upload a video of how to put it together, im not getting this

are you going to upload a quick video of it working?

when are you going to provide a tutorial of how to put it together?

I'm close to release text version.... 6 first step are done...

ok thank you! when do u think they are ganna be up?

I've just uploaded first part in post process enjoy :)

hey i was just wondering what parts need to be double printed

If you look at the file name of part , you would see that I have added x# at the end of the file name( eg: main flipper x4.stl mean that you need 4 of them) ... so what you need: 1 of the two available body (probably the low friction is the best but didn't completed test yet), 1 of the two available switchplate (for rubber band I recommend double hook ) and 2x sp carriage of the same version ( double hook), 4x main flipper, 2x inner blade latch,2x ratchet latch and 1x all other part. This gives you a complete kit for one arm ( since I've designed it to be reversible, it would work for any arm side) ... I know that build instructions are missing, since a lot of people asking for them I would post a test only version and add the picture later...

Oh ok that makes sense, thanks looking forward to making one!!!

Comments deleted.

Can you make photoes how put it together or how to disassemble it ?

I'm on my way to print all the latest design to do those instructions(currently printing)... so getting closer, stay tuned :)

when you do provide instructions, could you make a tutorial video please, it would help alot

The flipper and the ratchet rack seem to have some issues. Would you be able to fix the stl files?

Are you talking about stl issue (aka. Broken mesh)or fitting issue once printed? What is the slicer you're using?

I've printed both of them with cura without issue... ( the rack need some sanding currently)

I tried printing it with the Dremel software and these two pieces and one other has big chunks missing in the preview and a once printed. This appears in the Dremel software, Simplify 3d, and Autodesk print studio.

OK I've never used any of those slicer...if you could provide me la last one that appear broken , I would regenerate them to fix that.. BTW Thanks for the feedback

The Middle Plate Latch seemed to be hollow and feel apart when I printed it. I haven't printed all of the files yet but I REALLY appreciate it!

Middle plate latch fixed just now... sorry again for that... :)

And the Main Flipper fixed too...

hey i was wondering when the assembly guide would be out

OK the Ratchet Rack is fixed... i've just uploaded the fixed file :)

could u possiblly put a link or upload a vid of how to put it together or how to disassemble it

Hey thanks for the great design, i just finished printing all the pieces and ive worked out on my own how to put it all together for all but 2 parts. The tiny little blade lock to lock the inner blade out, just need to know which way it is supposed to go in it, And also the piece with the tiny little knob and the two teeth on each side (the 3rd picture in your photos, the 3rd actual 3d (blue) picture that is). these are really the only two parts that i cant figure out how they fit (i have an idea just want to know for sure). thanks for the awesome design and if you need anyone to test print it again, I can for ya, i have both pla and abs (did this print in pla but i am getting some warping so i am going to try to print in abs next time) Thanks again! I do really admire how all your parts fit together perfectly and still slide very easily! two of the other designs ive printed has sizing issues and im going to have to adjust them to get them to work. so far your scaling for everything is the absolute best and I think i might have some ideas on how to make it smaller if you want to collaborate sometime :) thanks again!!

as i typed that i figured out what that second piece i was talking about does lol, I like how you made everything reversible for the other hand as well. very smart!

First thanks a lot for the good comment!

I'm about to release a complete assembly guide... a pneumonia has take me down last 2week...

Here how the extension blade lock work:

You need a paper clip for the pivot and a small rubber band ( really small) I use dollars store ouchless hair rubber band for all blade locking mechanism ( blade lock and main flipper)

Depending of your printing quality/precision the hole on the outer blade top and bottom could need to be drill or clean... your paperclip should be able to go through them.

Once the inner blade move freely inside outer blade(sand if needed) glue the outer blade ( I know... I don't like glue either, if I could I will try to switch that to screw or clip). Take the small ( and slim) elastic band around the outer blade in the channel made for that (be sure to not twist it , it must lay flat and should not overflowing from the channel ). Once the elastic band in place take one of the lock pin , you would see that there is a channel in it ( same wide as the one on the outer blade) . This channel must face the center of the blade aligned with the one on the outer blade. , the hole align with the hole on the outer blade.

I will add a picture to show the finished assembly...

The two tiny "T" shape part are the inner ratchet lock pin, they are designed to sit back to back inside the center of the main wheel push by a tiny rubber band (the ouchless hair one) stretched between the two pin on each side of the main wheel square opening, so their 45 degree end will go out to lock the gear wheel... in one direction.

Since it's a ratchet system, internal latch lock the rotation in one direction, the middle plate latch lock the other rotation direction... so internal latch lock le gear when the rack is pulled out, and the middle plate lock the wheel when the rack is pulled back by the rubber band.

Hope it's clear enough to get you up and running. As a mentioned above , I will post instructions shortly.

Hey thanks! Sorry to hear about you being sick, hope you are feeling better! And alright I think I know what you mean for the lock now thanks! I am going to have to reprint most of the parts anyways because half of them are warped and won't slide well at all haha. Although I do have to say my print quality is superb (besides the warping haha) I have the little paperclip holes perfectly clear and everything =) I'll finish putting this one together just to make sure I can get all the prices together correctly and then I'll probably print a new one in a couple days (trying to order some black pla, right now I have a yellow hidden blade lol) I'll let you know if I need anything else! Thanks again for the help!

I will tell you this now, I am ready to buy this... I just need the instructions. I think I know how some of it work, but I would love to have a full explanation.

I will tell you this now, I am ready to buy this... I just need the instructions. I think I know how some of it work, but I would love to have a full explanation.

I will tell you this now, I am ready to buy this... I just need the instructions. I think I know how some of it work, but I would love to have a full explanation.

I will tell you this now, I am ready to buy this... I just need the instructions. I think I know how some of it work, but I would love to have a full explanation.

I will tell you this now, I am ready to buy this... I just need the instructions. I think I know how some of it work, but I would love to have a full explanation.

I am very interested in seeing the mechanism for this, please post as soon as you can ;). It looks awesome!

but will it blend..?

could you please fix http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:956053 to work please

Hidden Blade ( Extended Blade w/ Dual Action) for Assassin's Creed
by PiggyJJ

This is a strange request... I've look at this model and it's great design but I prefer my blade, my double latch system (blade and blade extension so the blade is rock solid and stable), my switch plate... but the question is why would you prefer to use that design? what is the advantage and what is missing in my design?
My design is a little bigger currently(would fix that... make everything working nice first), I also plan to have some other blade design... Currently I'm working against gravity and friction blade work perfectly at 30 deg from vertical(using the double hook version), so a little less friction would do the job for the strait up position. It even work great against gravity :)

I like it quite a bit because it is very close to the famed Imdeepainreborn’s hidden blade design and i have always wanted to own one but never had the time to get one and he will not release his files. his hidden blades are also no longer on Ebay :(. I ask of this because it would make me and many others Very Very happy. If you won’t do this for any reason i understand. So i say thank you.

assemble instructions?

I'm Currently Working on it, it remains some flaw that I need to fix prior finishing it... would be uploaded asap.

Hey man any up dates on how the blade is going. it looks soo freaking cool i cant wait. and any interest in making a spring conversion for it later on.

Hi Sup4545, its going well :), I currently have a working prototype which beat gravity easily, all of the double latch work well. Currently it require sanding... too much sanding at my point of view (even ratchet atch needs it... I need to fix that its almost impossible to sand a small part like that lol)...so the today release should solve most of them... I would be printing them shortly to test all of those change (theorically everything should be correct... but until everything printed out and tested... issue could appear).

the Single Hook switch plate as been design to work with both rubber band or spring... could be a good starting point... but I've start this project with availability of part in mind... so this is why I've worked hard to made it work with only 1 paper clip and a couple of small rubber band. Honestly i'm impressed by the power generated by rubber band... at first I was thinking that I would not be able to run it over rubber band only... But I've proved myself wrong! Honestly i'm impressed by the rubber band! I've run that prototype at least 200+ time and I don't see any wear or power lost currently...

Both switch plates look the same to me, what is the different?

Sorry @crazyginger , I've missed that question: here the answer, the single hook version si design to be compatible with both spring or rubber band since it design to accept only one end of and energy storage media per part sp and carriage.

The problem appear when you use rubber band... you need really strong and small one to get it working... and it hardly beats gravity( has test a lot of then, event ranger's one and bike inner tube...) . You need almost no friction in the completed system to succeeded ( and since I don't want to used oil or grease... ) I was locked...

The double hook version is design to receive the two end of a small elastic band, so you hook the elastic band to the switchplate you stretch it trough one of the hole in the switch plate carriage(far as possible). And you hook it back to the switch plate... that way you have 4 string of rubber to give trust to your blade... and now it beats gravity :)

Sorry for delay of answer... I've just see your unanswered question today...

Sorry @crazyginger , I've missed that question: here the answer, the single hook version si design to be compatible with both spring or rubber band since it design to accept only one end of and energy storage media per part sp and carriage.

The problem appear when you use rubber band... you need really strong and small one to get it working... and it hardly beats gravity( has test a lot of then, event ranger's one and bike inner tube...) . You need almost no friction in the completed system to succeeded ( and since I don't want to used oil or grease... ) I was locked...

The double hook version is design to receive the two end of a small elastic band, so you hook the elastic band to the switchplate you stretch it trough one of the hole in the switch plate carriage(far as possible). And you hook it back to the switch plate... that way you have 4 string of rubber to give trust to your blade... and now it beats gravity :)

Sorry for delay of answer... I've just see your unanswered question today...

np man, thanks for the explanation! I ordered one of these and it should come any day now!

cool man well once you get it in a good beta point. i will do a test print for you. also if i may suggest when all finished add a zip file with all the parts that need to be printed in a single package. it helps to not have to choose between versions of stuff.

Don't worry , once finished my first release candidate, I will post complete build instructions. At the end it would probably have only one version of every part ( except switch plate, 1 rubber band and one springs since a lot of people asking for it). I'm close to the finish line!

sup man got it almost wrapped up now sweet cant wait to print it

cool, this looks like a interesting version of the hidden blade.

hey man glad to see it is going well. any new pictures?

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