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Pocket-Tactics: Core Set 1 (Fourth Edition)

by dutchmogul Oct 11, 2016
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This looks pretty cool. I think I"m going to try it out...
Can anyone help me with a question, though: I'm trying to figure out the number of filament colors I need and which pieces should be the same color.
I can probably suss it out from pictures, but some specific directions would be really helpful.
Also, when printing multiple core sets, is there overlap (so that not so many pieces need to be printed)? Do any pieces across core sets need to be the same?

I printed the game and my first test round went well, however, it opened up some questions:

When rolling for def (climbing rocks for example), do I get to bump the rolls and also get rerolls or is it only as many def rolls as the figure has?
When a plains tile is occupied by a feature, does it still count as a plains tile as well?
Are there templates for the cards and the models that we can use to add own creations to the game? Would really like if some other people could create addons as well.

This just became a favorite game. Is there any guidance or instruction for wanting to play a larger game? If you wanted to do more than 50pts would you add more tiles? IE Double the points, double the tiles and objectives/Features? Whats recommended?

If I wanted to make custom pieces, how would I add the figure and favored terrain to the card?

where can i find the effects of this ?, I mean what happens when an unit goes through ??

Isn't Tile 1 water and tlie 2 plains? Water isn't traversable buy the main dudes... maybe there's some of the later sets, but the core set 1, plains are the only traversable tile.

Thanks for the inverted colors! Unfortunately it’s also black and white. Do you have color versions that do not have a black background?

I've been trying to print the water tile, but for whatever reason, when I slice it in Cura, it doesn't work. My MP Select Mini even starts to have issues with cancelling the print, not displaying the target temp for the extruder, etc. I tried using the tile from other sets as well ad downloading the individual file. Anyone have similar issues?

Disregard this. Turns out it was a weird quirk in the printer that resolved itself.

Great job !! But I need your experience. I tried to print some characters, but all of them tilled over approx. 25% before finishing.
I tried PLA, ABS and HIPS. Thank you in advance. (fyi, I'm a beginner of 3d printing)

It's been solved. Got a smidgen warping. This was the root cause.

I just found this and it looks cool. Are these 18mm models?

Hey, thanks. They are! 18mm to general human eye line (not the top of the head), so not another term for 15mm scale, though I know there's a lot of debate there, haha. But yeah, scale with anything else I have on here that's 18mm, like this growing monstrosity.

Wayfarer Tactics: Character Compendium (18mm scale)

18mm is a fun size, and the rules are easy to understand!

You might be interested in having your decks built on

I know you want to keep it open source, but some may want an actual printed deck. A small set wont cost much.

I may create a few private decks on their site for myself.

Yeah, we actually made these using the gamecrafter card template (and ordered a few for ourselves). We've been meaning to release links so people can get them too, though the game is still a WIP. Once we're settled on that, we're for sure going to. Feel free to make some for yourself, for sure.

Ha, cool. I thought that card sheet looked familiar. Btw, these fourth edition models are looking great.

Hey, could I use the "Horror of Blacktide Deep (Second Edition)" in this fourth edition?
If so, how should I configure him?

Eg, does he have any bumps, can he only do single attacks, etc.

which characters should be printed in what colors to tell the teams apart?

If you look at the cards, the pieces are separated on different sheets, plus the renders on the cards are color-consistent for sides.

I've been mildly obsessed with printing/painting/playing these little guys over the past week or so, and I think I just figured out why. A customizable little army of 6 creatures that you carry around in your pocket to do battle with anywhere you find an opponent. Sound familiar? :D

A childhood need of mine just found a (slightly) more grown-up outlet.

Does this game work well with more than 2 players, or is it 2 players only?

It does, yeah. It's especially fun if you play on teams and get ot count your friends' pieces as "allied." Opens up a bunch of new synergies.

Which true type font is used in "HighKingVersusTribesCards.pdf"?

I found: it's Amarante-Regular.

Could you perchance separately group each faction and the tiles for printing? I've been printing at a library where I only get 5 prints a month, but have exactly the right build plate size to print all the characters for one faction at once. I've tried to do it myself, but tinkercad won't let me upload most of the character files... Thanks for making these, they're awesome!

Oh, download MakerBot Desktop! It's free and it let's you import and arrange STLs. Super easy and you can then save it as one file.

Ok, thank you! I'm new to 3D printing, so I have no idea what software is out there.

And another one. What happens to a unit that is defeated when entering water? Does it move to to the captures of the opposing player?

A short question about Range Attack: Does "line of sight blocked" mean that no attack is possible? Or does it mean that the path has to be changed in a way that line of sight is given while counting the range?

Would you be willing to provide the source files of the cards? I'd love to translate them into German (and invert colors to have less soaked paper when printing on inkjets ;-)). I already have translated the instructions. Of course I'd love to contribute them.

I would, but not until we have the final version. I'll remove the Work in Progress status as soon as that's finished, and we'll have a different rules PDF at that point. Then I'll be happy to share the source files.

Are these cards saved anywhere as individual pictures? I have a really cheap pocket thermal printer and it makes amazing little cards for portable boardgames. Printer and 3d printer teamwork. I'd do it myself, but there's such a massive number of ones that I'd have to make instead of just the ones that I own already.

Thanks a lot. I already translated the rules and will continue with the cards anyways, since my sons (9 and 5 years) do not speak english. I will make a dirty hack then and contribute the translations if you like (we are playing core set 1 together with the Mages Guild).

Great Design! Thanks a million times. I encountered problems slicing the forest in Slic3r 1.2.9 stable due to errors in the stl of the forest. I fixed it in netfabb and can provide the file if you need it.

Hey, thank you. Yeah, I've been hearing that from people. I just ran it through Netfabb and replaced it here. Thanks for the heads up, enjoy the game!

I added a tray that works with the fourth edition.

Pocket Tactics Grid Tray - 4th Edition
by lb7000

Is it possible to get special cards for the variant models of the tribe figures? I'd like to print those and have the specific model on the cards for them.

Is this compatible with previous (and future) versions?

No, each edition is only compatible with sets from the same edition. This is the newest stuff.

How often is a new edition released?

Well, we released the first edition in 2012, and the others came pretty quickly on its heels, but after a bunch of refining over the years, we're hoping this will be the final edition (or at least stick around a long while). Don't see it going anywhere anytime soon.

I'm new to miniatures gaming, but this looks AWESOME! Do we have to print specific pieces in certain colors? I believe this core set is for two players. Do I print all units in the same color? I see green units and white units in the pictures... Thanks for the help!

Hey, thanks! You can really do it however you like, but we like to do opposing forces in different colors, as it makes it a little easier. But yes, these are two distinct, pre-built forces. The units all have a cost, and each force totals 50 points, so you can mix and match from whatever set you like for custom builds.

So your instructions say for the standard core set, we print 1 of each type of unit. So do I need to print two sets of these units, 1 set for each player to pick from? Sorry if I'm not getting it.

Oh, if you look at the rules in the explanation, it tells you how many of each unit to print. all of that is for a two-player game. Their stat cards (in the PDFs here) separate them by faction.

So yeah, print one of everything and give the Legion characters to one player and the Tribes characters to the other.

Do each player print their own tiles ?

You can, if you're doing your own custom build (any 6 tiles, one feature, and 50 points worth of characters). This set has everything needed for two players.

Comments deleted.

Just 50 points worth. Could be any number, as long as their cost (below the name/types on the card) totals 50 points. This set has two pre-built factions (the Legion and the Tribes) and each one totals 50 points when you add the characters together. But if you want to build your own force (or pull one from another set) there's no number of models you have to have. As long as you don't go over 50 total points, that's what matters.

Basically, this set is an example build meant for two players (the white characters versus the green).

Another question about the rules. How exactly do bumps apply, and what do they apply to. As in, if I rolled a 5 and a 3, but have a +2 bump, can I bump them each up by one, or does it only affect one die. Also, do you apply bumps to DV tests, like for a hazard tile or something.

Ah, good question. So each bump is it's own thing. If you have a +2 bump, you can apply it to raise a single die by 2. You can't split it up. If you have a power that gives you a "bonus +1 bump," that's a separate bump you can either apply to the same die or to a different die.

Wonderful! That makes a lot of sense. And does it apply to DV tests too?

Oh, sorry. Yeah, it applies to any test you make with OFF or DEF.

UPDATE: Deployment rules updated to correct errata.

UPDATE: Added some variant models for the Cursed Ranger, Darkwood Juggernaut, and Forest Witch. These print quite a bit more easily, so you don't have to adjust our nozzle settings for the top layers (as some have had to do).

Tribes of the Dark Forest (Variant Models)

Hi from France Duthmogul,

Rule point please.
"When the difficulty test for a water tile fails, the unit is defeated."

Does it mean that the unit just can't move into the water tile or it is defeated in the captured ennemy area ?

I'm doing a french traduction or the 4th edition rules. Interessted in ?

Have a good day ;-)

Yes! Very interested. I have some people we work with over there that would certainly appreciate it. Yeah, so defeated always means it goes to enemy captures. Now, if you happen to be playing multiplayer, you get to choose which enemy that is (though that'll be in the multiplayer rules we're releasing soon).

The rules are ok but I have to translate the cards now.
But I must do new template cause I haven't all the graphic elements.

Hey, if you want to shoot me an email, I'd be happy to send you the art assets.

Hey I'm very interested in that too :)
Should you need a hand to review the translation, be my guest !

Hi there, that's awsome. currently printing 2 sets for playing with friends !
As a side note, everything is printing great apart from the darkwood juggernaut! I printed it 2 times with ABS and then PLA but the bottom of the weapon is always detaching miserably once it starts printing the arm. I just don't understand why ! some parts look more challenging but in the end, the juggernaut fails - in my case:(

Hey, all: I've actually been having trouble with those two on my most recent print-runs, along with the Forest Witch, so I went ahead and remixed all three. I haven't printed them yet, but I will tonight.

Tribes of the Dark Forest (Variant Models)

great, thanks a bunch !

Funny, that one went perfect for me. I went 10deg cooler than normal. Try a different slicer? I've been using FlashPrint. The one i've had trouble with so far is the Cursed Ranger The end of his sword never comes out right.

Hey thanks for the answer ! I finally managed to get it printed properly by 1- lowering speed 2- adding support 3- increasing the flowrate (I had 0.9). I think this last one is the most important : more plastic is poured into the model and small features are stiffer !
For your issue, try reducing drastically the speed of the last layers or if you can't the layers of that last less than x seconds to print (S3D has that, I can't remember for slic3r). This is how I got it working :)

The set looks really great, a big thanks to the people behind it !

UPDATE: The rules and stat cards have undergone some minor changes here and there, so if you have the old stuff, be sure and grab what's current. Fixes include:

-No more hazard effects for Ice and Wasteland tiles (theoretical as this is, as they're not yet in the first two core sets).
-All terrain features (forests, villages, et cetera) block ranged assaults if you have to count through them.
-Ability changes on the Highland and Forest.
-Addition of two new icon abilities, Daylight Sensitivity and Summoning (not a part of this set, but will be included in future pieces).

Hey, just to be sure before I print, some questions:
Do I understand it correctly that

  1. Each Core Set is good for two players
  2. If I want to play with three or four players, I would print two Core Sets
  3. I can mix the units / tiles from the two Core Sets as I want (provided I restrain each player to a specific "race")
  4. I can play with as many players as I want (at least 2 obviously)

So, for trying this out with a friend I would simply print one of the Core Sets and start playing?

1: Yeah, each set is designed for two players.
2: Yeah, that's the easiest way to do it (but see below).
3: You can actually mix as much as you like! That's why the point system is there. As long as your forces total 50 points (or 100 or whatever else you agree on if you want a bigger/longer game) then you're good. You can even include multiples of the same unit if you like.
4: As many as you want. Include 6 terrain tiles and 1 feature per player (plus a feature to go in the middle). It's fun to randomize all of that, actually, but you can have people choose if you like. Just be sure that when the map is fully built, all the players place their features equa-distant from the center and each other. Teams are a lot of fun, as you get to consider each others units as being "allied" which opens up a lot of fun synergies with the special ability effects.We'll have th full multiplayer rules in the core rules release (coming soon) but this should get you started.

But yeah, for starters, just print this set and play with a friend to learn.

Nice! Thanks for the quick answer, I will totally give this a try :)

I guess I'll be revisiting my tribe in the dark forest...

I just did a test print of six of the figurines. Unfortunately Slic3r barfed up the forest tile and will require repairs. For now I've just added an extra plains tile to the platter and will mark it differently.

Otherwise I'm very pleased. This game and your talent have come a long way over the last few years.

Hey, thanks for the words. Glad you got the set to (mostly) print. I run my stuff through the cloud version of netfabb, but I've been hearing a lot of problems by the time they get to Slic3r (though I've never used the program myself). You could try running it through yourself. I've heard that's worked for some people.

I used to have to repair one or two models per set with the older stuff, but whatever workflow you're using now has improved things quite a bit. I don't use netfabb, but I do have a few tricks for making things work in FreeCAD - it's just a matter of finding the time. I'd be happy to share the resulting file with you when I get around to it.

Is there a tile-tray for the fourth edition tiles? It would be awesome.

Not yet. We designed the new tiles so they don't require one, but it could still be helpful if you have the time/materials to print them. We'll make one soon.

This is amazing! I will try this out when i get the chance!!

I was just about to print thralls of the formless one, should I print this instead because it is the fourth addition?

Yeah, absolutely. If you want to print the unit pieces (not the base or tiles) for the Thralls, go right ahead, because we will be updating them all with 4th edition rules really soon.

I'm not sure if I understand the assault rules correctly. Is it true that if the number of the attackers attack dice is higher than the defenders def dice the defender will be captured for sure because he can not match the last attack dice?

And it seems like the rules are missing an explanation on how to do DEF tests atm.

Oh, and I'll likely add some clarification to the finished rules booklet (still a WIP), but a DEF test is just rolling your blue dice. An OFF test is rolling your red dice. That's really it. When you roll for an assault, a character is making both an OFF test and a DEF test at the same time.

That was a fast reply. Thank you, now I understand.

But now another question emerged ^^
Do I still need to do a test if I hop over a hazard tile because there is already one of my units in it?

edit: oh, and you don't move into an enemies tile when assaulting any more? So a range of 1 when doing a ranged attack means there can be one free tile between the attacker and the attacked unit?

No, problem!

You only test for a hazard (or terrain feature effect, like the Highlands) if you're actually moving into it. Hopping is free, you only move into the tile you end up in. Great way to avoid hazards/difficulties.

That's right, you always attack adjacent (think of them as fighting at the border). So a unit with a ranged attack capability has a number with a +, indicating that it can fight that many extra tiles away.

So I i got these right at least.
Seems like I'm ready for my first game now. Thank you for this awesome work!

Right on, and you're very welcome. Have fun!

Oh, and this video is for the old edition, but the basic dice mechanic holds, so this might be useful.

Well, when an assault begins, you both roll dice at the same time (both the red OFF and blue for DEF). For each side, you compare the highest red die against the other model's highest blue die, Let's say that the enemy (who gets two blue dice) rolled a 6 and a 4 in blue. The attacker (who has three red dice) rolls a 6, 3, and a 2. The attacker compares their highest die result (a 6) against the defender's highest (also a 6). That result is a tie, so the attacker moves to the next highest result (a 3) and the compares it to the enemy's next highest (a 4) which beats the attacker's result. Blue then wins, and the attacker's remaining result (a 2) is useless at this point because the defender has the highest uncontested die result (the 4). Basically, at the end of the roll, whoever has the highest single die that isn't matched in the opposing color, wins that test. You do the opposite at the same time (compare the attackers blue dice to the enemy's red) to see if the attacker get defeated. It's fully possible for both units to break each others defense and take each other down on the same roll.

I am not realy sure if I fully understood. If the attacker (who has 3 dice) rolls 6,5, and 3 and the defender (who has only 2 dice) rolls 6 and 5, will the attacker win because of the third dice the 3?

Yeah, that's right. The defender can't match that three, so the attacker ends up having the highest, uncontested result. In that same scenario, if the attacker had that roll (6, 5, and 3) and the defender rolles two 6s, the defender would be safe from the attacker.

Wow, what a quick answer. Thank You!
Currently I translate the rules to german, but still not finished. There is another question I got: A unit that is moving into a water tile has to do a DEF test. Will it roll only one dice or all the DEF dice that are given by its rulecard and at least one of these should show a 6 or a 5 to survive?

No problem! Yeah, all the DEF dice shown on the card, following the standard test rules (so bumps also apply, but not re-rolls for adjacent allies, as that only applies to assault tests).

I was so confused. So as long as one die from the pool beats that value, it passes?

Yeah, that's right.

Comments deleted.

I was wondering if you could post the card PDF in a more ink friendly format (white background with dark text rather than the current light on black)?

EDIT: deleted duplicate comments.

Here is my attempt at a low-ink version, but with some color. Admittedly it's imperfect, but I just made it to help tide me over until there is an official low-ink version.

Wow, these look great. Thanks for the effort, I'll have to print it out tonight!

Yeah, here you go. They ain't pretty, but they should work: Rules, High King, and Tribes

Wow, I didn't expect something so quickly. Thank you for this!

Hey, you're very welcome!

UPDATE: The Darkwood Juggernaut and Darkwood Marauder's abilities now occur at the end of the roll phase instead of the start of the re-roll phase. This makes their abilities much more useful, and means that their bumps are more useful as well. The stat cards pdf has been updated to reflect these changes.

Comments deleted.

Same basic flavor, with some simplified rules. I like it! Can't wait for the other old factions to come out, so I can modify the Gen 1 teams. :)


You're very welcome. I'm working on the rules updates as we speak! Won't be long....

UPDATE: Slight changes to the rules (the rules cards/pdfs have been updated to reflect these):

-The Highcourt Mage's "Fate Weaver" ability now only affects adjacent units.
-Deployment rules now include the ability to move back to reserves through occupied feature tiles.
-The Village's "Recruit" effect now functions after you have taken your turn, provided you have a Minion at your disposal to deploy.

Thanks for the inverted colors! Unfortunately it’s also black and white. Do you have color versions that do not have a black background?