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Rasmushauschild

Super Pi Boy - Raspberry Pi 3 Game Boy

by Rasmushauschild Sep 19, 2016
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I need a step by step video to put it together , thanks :)

Can I still follow these instructions to make one of these or is there a more updated version to follow?

Has anyone not have the display work? I have a white screen that says VG2 and I attached the VG2 to pp24 and I have my power ran to the 1000C + and - .

Can I replace the button with the buttons of a broken NES controller?

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Can we please get a new, working link for the LCD? I want to make one of these, but I'm concerned about purchasing a display that might be too big to fit in the case.

Sorry about that... The link has now been updated :)

Any chance we'll ever get an instruction file on this? Or at least some clarity as to the breadboard/prototype board or PCBs used? I've seen several people ask, but there's never an answer.

PLEASE PLEASE can someone give me a link on the screen, I have searched far and wide for such a screen but cannot find one! I have found ones on amazon/adafruit but not the right one

I'm fairly certain that it's similar to this one (disassembled of course): https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0056WJP1M/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

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I'm having issues printing the front piece. Like it was suggested i uploaded to tinkercad first and it fixed a portion of it but the part around where the lcd is supposed to be is printing as a separate piece and ruining the print. Any advice to get it to print right?

I loaded it into Microsoft 3d builder and after I imported it there was an option to repair the file. I did that and exported it as an stl and it worked fine.

Thanks I'm trying this now. Do you by any chance have a clear picture of how things are wired together?

It fixed the screw holes along the top of the display but the frame around the display is still printing separately and screwing up the print.:/

What are people getting for battery run times with this using a Pi 3B? anyone use a 3B+?

Well I guess you can't use the standard 3.5" LCD from amazon. Not even close to fitting

buttons.stl is broken. It prints the first 2 layers of the buttons and then tries to do the dpad 2 layers up, sticking to nothing. Yup, confirmed the directional pad is a mm higher than everything else.

Go with this, its fitting well. You have to use the YouTube video linked below to work with 5v, I'm working on this now

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MtN_s4tVK0&t=371s

Hi all, can anyone point me out to a wiring diagram or high res pictures of the inside?
Thanks

Could you please split up the extras.stl into separate STLs? Thank You!

Dumb question I'm sure - What PCB's am I soldering onto, or am I missing something? A look at the pics, and I see a controller PCB and a little breadboard.

Preferably with links so I can BUY.

Can i get some info on those, I'm ready to build!

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

So i am building one of these right now and i have all the parts i need, i'm just slightly confused on how to wire everything onto it. I've looked at all the other comments and i agree that it would be nice to have a few pictures of where all the wires are connected to make it less confusing

I haven't been able to get an answer on that, but there's a guide for a build on adafruit, and I think you have to sort of follow that. I'm going to cut a SNES controller PCB and wire to that per that guide.

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I successfully built this but how long does the battery last. I am also using a 3.7V 2500mAh lipo and it does not last very long. Sometimes It dies right away and I have to plug it in to kind of give it a jump start after that it stays on. I just dont think the battery you are using has enough amps to push the Raspberry Pi 3 and all the components. If anyone else that has successfully built this, can you all let me know if u all have run into this same issue. Just want to make sure that its not any of my components. Thanks

what PCB did you solder to? And did you use a breadboard, ans which one if so?

Hi there!
First of all congratulations on finishing your Super Pi Boy!
Are you using the exact parts listed in the description?

Yes, I figured out the battery was the issue. That is what I get for trying to save a couple of bucks and buying one just like it for 2 or 3 dollars less than the Adafruit one. Replaced it with the Adafruit one and it works great. Thanks for the reply.

No problem :) I'm happy you got it working!

Is there any kind of step-by step tutorial for this? And a more detailed parts list like what breadboard you used, how many switches you used and others? And is there a way to put an analog stick there? Thanks.

The wiring isn't that hard, but getting information required some time.

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-powerboost-1000c-load-share-usb-charge-boost/pinouts
Solder the on/off switch to EN and GND. Get the output power by pins next to + -. This you can also use for the LED and amp.

The composite display requires 6-12V. I tried it with RPis 5V but it doesn't work. It works with 9V block battery. So I desided to use a step-up converter in addition. The composite data pin is PP24 on the RPis back.

Audio pins should be PP25 (Audio left) and PP26 (Audio right). Didn't tested them yet. Maybe there is a better solution using GPIO.

what PCB did you solder to? And did you use a breadboard, and which one if so?

I'm afraid it is a bit of try and error. I built the entire thing just to discover, that the screen is slightly too high. so I either print a spacer, or design the front from scratch.

Has anyone figured out how he got his controls to work with playstation games?

Although others have said the indicated LCD display works on 5v, I’ve been unable to do so. I’ve got it working with a 9v battery, but at 5v it simply flickers on and off at 1-second intervals.

what PCB did you solder controls to? And did you use a breadboard, ans which one if so?

I cut up a prototyping board and wired the buttons to that. It ultimately didn't work for reasons I was unable to diagnose. The Pololu voltage booster I mentioned below did end up working, though. I set the project aside, however.

Thanks for your response. One thing I'm thinking is that since you can use that button config application to configure this, you can use a cut-up snes controller board and follow the instructions on adafruit. That's all I can think of. But i'm guessing and I'm hoping someone who completed this can weight in.

You have to bypass a step down, the screen can run on 5v. Here is a youtube video of a guy that does the same thing but with a screen. I followed his steps and got the screen to work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MtN_s4tVK0&t=371s

fast forward to about 3 min in the video.

what PCB did you solder the controls to? And did you use a breadboard, and which one if so?

Holy crap! Unfortunately my display's board doesn't have that chip, or one that I can detect fulfills the same function. Not sure I have the soldering skills to remove it anyway.

I have found a 5v -> 9v voltage booster from Pololu, which I'm hoping will solve this problem for me. https://www.pololu.com/product/2116/specs

I don't have it working yet...

i was wondering if you had a step by step on how to put the electronic components together

Very nice project !
Thanks for all the documents shared here about this.

And the comment are important.

Thanks also to DJ_AJ for some wire connexion help
The wire white for me is connected to the Yellow wire goes to PP24. I had to remove an element from the screen board in order to give him 5v input. (Not that easy to found how to connect all components together). and the battery on the powerboost

Continue implementing device like this, it's really awesome!
Thanks

I liked this project I would be very gracious to make the list of materials in another site that is easier for me to buy Brazilian type aliexpress or banggood or gearbest

at least some insight on how to connect the screen would be great

Yellow wire goes to PP24 (test pad on the back of the Raspberry Pi; you can search for what the test pads do on google), red wire goes to any test pad that has 5 volts, black wire goes to ground, white wire either does nothing, or does what the yellow wire does. when testing the white/yellow wire, test them one at a time, and not both at once, and see which wire connects to the video.

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The screen can still run on 5v. It does on mine. Like I said before, the red wire goes to any test pad (you can google this) that sends out 5v, and the black wire goes to ground. Keep in mind that once everything is wired, it'll probably be tough to squeeze everything in the tiny case. If there are any other questions, just let me know and I'll try to answer them as best as I can.

Is there any diagram for the wiring that anyone knows of?

can someone upload wiring instructions?

How are the display wired. The display work at 6 to 12 volt. We have about 5 volt. is it the right display in the descriptios link

is there anyway to change the audio on/off for something you can adjust the volume with?

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Where did you put the battery? This size does not fit in any place.

I believe the battery sits some where above the powerboost. I had to really manage my wires to get this to fit. Also had to grind down some buttons. A lot of trial and error. Good luck.

Has anyone figured out how the button mapping was changed so you can play PSX and N64 games?

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When I insert the files into Makerbot Print the Front.STL file is busted. I tried individual files as well as all files.

Is there a chance you can re-upload the files?

Upload the files to tinkercad, then export as STL. Everything is fixed after that

Well, nothing works as the files are not printable. Seems no one is commenting or has this issue. Its a shame as I purchased all the parts and can't print this.

I don't want to be cruell but maybe you should check everything before you buy stuff.

It's not cruel.

But considering 5 others listed this as being made successfully there was no need to check things.

I just printed the files. They are a bit broken for slicing. They open fine in Blender, though. Then the next problem appears, in that several parts are floating. So I just used blender to break the stl files into individual objects, and used the Blender 3d printing toolkit to export each object as its own stl file. They all printed fine that way.

I have tried most all you mentioned. The front of the unit only prints the shel of the display the rest of it has just vanished, its clearly visible in Makerbot Print. I have reverted to another model from another person as this one just don't work with my software and printer.

They load fine in the Classic CURA. You can load them in there and break them into pieces and save of the models. I rotated the pieces on the Extras file, but that was the only thing.

Please tell me how to print the extras.stl. The models are over and under the build plain. Is there a specific tool or process to printing the items in this file?

I'm partway through this project. My only issue is with the buttons. They aren't level on the STL file. So the multi directional button does not print correctly as it's about 0.5mm off the print bed when starting to print!

I have the same Problem. Several models are over an under the build plan. Very sad...

Just load it into a different slicer. They load fine in the classic CURA. You can break them up and save the model back out. You can even save individuals elements of the model as well.

Just some feedback on this.

Becareful which lcd you buy.

I bought this display https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNJVG8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And although it is listed as a 3.5 it is more wide than tall, and does not fit.

So i have figured out most of the wring of this. but any chance of a full pin out. i know your selling them but a gpio guide would be good. i take it the your doing a composite hack on the headphone jack. with video and audio. its the charging element and the off and on switch i would love some more information about. and sound off/on switch.

I have been trying to figure out how to connect the audio and video elements to the raspberry pi. Can you please describe this composite hack or provide a link to write-up or description of it?

What is the name of the board that the Tactile switches sit on ?

what PCB did you solder to? And did you use a breadboard, and which one if so? Links or a description would be helpful

I love this design and am making one right now. I have the case and buttons printed and am waiting for the LCD and parts from Adafruit. My question to you is where did you place the LiPo battery?

there is a problem with these files

I found that importing the files into Tinkercad and then exporting to a different STL file fixed the files.

i downloaded the files and the front and back only have some pieces that arent the shell.....
where they removed?

Hello from Spain Rasmus

This project seems so interesting. I would ask you about a small detail in your description: the resolution of Super PI Boy is 480 X 320, but technical details for the Adafruit 3.5" tft display talks about 320 RGB wide x 240 high

Do you use this adafruit screen in your project?

Thank you and Keep up the good work, Rasmus

I would LOVE to try this out, but you don't explain how to put anything together. Could you at least provide an exploded/inside view of the system?

I would greatly appreciate this information as well.

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I printed the top and bottom, and i dont need them. If you pay for shipping you can have them.

Yes how about some instructions.

Congratulations for your amazing project!!!

Could you create a "Building Instructions", or an "Assembling Instructions", please? Thank you!!!

this power boost 10000 says its 1 amp, is that one amp mean how fast it charges, or how much amperage it supplys to the pi3, because in the manual it says the pi needs 2 amps.

Do you use Recalbox plus emulationstation?

No, I use Retropie :)

How do you print the extras file it has floating objects?

Hello! I tried downloading the thing files on to my computer. When I downloaded them the files do not seem like what is put in the images. Why would this be happening I have redownloaded the file and still. It shows up for example the back is just a few cylinders in the corners. Thank you!

What software are you opening them in?
I use Cura which works fine :)

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What slicer are you using? I too had problems with some of the stl files. If you open them in meshmixer they are fine and you can export them again.

Ohhh. I didnt think about that. Im using cura for the ultimaker. But even before I put them into a slicer the files do not come out right.

I also had the problem you do, I fixed them and made a re-upload that I will publish tomorrow. It will show up under remixes for this project.

Very nice Design, i like it very much

Hi friend, can you post a diagram of the inside please. Thank you

What size screws did you use?

Did you ever figure out the screws? I have the case printed, half the electronics and the other half ordered, and I just need to figure out what screw sizes so I'm not guessing and buying a bunch of unnecessary stuff.

Thirding this, anyone have any information on what screws to use?

What a cool build! Just ordered the parts... as others have asked, can you post pics of the inside or do you have a wiring diagram or tutorial for hooking everything up?

Thanks!
Tim

Do you have any picture of it open ? I didn´t saw the board for buttons and i am curious about the internal space. That power button surely takes a lot of internal space, but it´s sleek ! I would like to see the magic of packing all inside. :)

Hi,
is there space inside to place two analog sticks below the buttons on the right and the d-pad on the left?
Like in this model: https://www.element14.com/community/community/raspberry-pi/raspberrypi_projects/blog/2016/04/11/pisp-pocket

How Many of the tactile switches do I need

How much should this cost all together to build it?

Would love to see the inside of one of these to see how you put the components in

I 2nd this^ I just ordered my print of your design and have began to gather the parts necessary to build it. It is a work of art. Thank you for sharing the design and parts list

Hi, Rasmus, I am a big fan of your design. I really like that your case enclosure allows you to rotate the raspberry pi 180 degrees from the orientation in the PiGrrl 2, which allows access to the hdmi port. Two questions for you:
1) If you plug in an hdmi cable, does the image automatically mirror to the hdmi display?
2) Can you make your build instructions available on this page?
Thanks!
Will D.

Hi there! i really loved your game boy, i just wanna know hoy did you built it!? how the buttons are and how did you put the printed ones!? please answer to me. =) i really wanna do it! it's Beautiful!

Hi! I want to build this one, but not sure about the wiring diagram. Could you maybe post some pictures of the inside?

Thanks!
Björn

hello, i like this project but are there some infos on how put all things togheter?

Hi thanks for sharing this Dream machine..
Ready to jump on this and get er done.. Sorry if this was covered somewhere, but how to get the case? Is there a place I could pay to have it made?
Getting the case is the main hold up for me..

Hi, I find it hard to put this in to makerbot. Could you help me? I would very mutch like to use your build.

Hi there,
I'm unsure what you mean by putting it into the Makerbot.
Could you please explain it to me?

Just download repetier(search it in google)

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I'm having trouble putting it in to the software maker bot. It's for MakerBot 2X. The case doesn't show up, only some dots. I have tried several files.

Waw ! Any instructable would be awesome !
Great projet !

I'd like to know something, as the LCD you've use as only composite input, how do you plug it to the Pi3 ?
Thanks ! :)

Edit : Nevermind, I've just seen that Pi3 has composite on his jack plug.