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by smartfriendz Nov 11, 2013
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To anyone considering this printer as THE ONE that you are going to commit-to building: I do not recommend it whatsoever. Skip this one.
The designer put a lot of work in years ago, but essentially vanished from the face of the internet, nothing has been updated since 2015, anywhere, here, the github, the website, reprap.org...... Now when I say he put in a lot of work, that absolutely does NOT mean it was quality work. Part files are scattered across the web, there's like a million versions of every part file (exaggeration), the documentation is very scarce and limited in helpfulness. It's all just plain CONFUSING, and very disorganized
Sadly I thought this printer was THE ONE that I wanted and I committed to building it for my college STEM club... I really wish someone had said exactly what I am saying now, to prevent me from making that decision. I built it, and it works, but the process was incredibly AGONIZING. I wish it was easier to find support for this thing, but there is none. Just because you can see it working in the "makes" section, does NOT mean it's a good design or well-planned.
I feel kind of bad for saying all of this, because the dude DID work and try really hard on his design, but his mechanical-design knowledge is non-existent.
First of all, THE ENTIRE THING IS DESIGNED IN BLENDER. That should already stand-out as a warning sign. He didn't use a CAD program that was meant for engineering, he used a CAD program for creating artwork. That is why everything is so confusing/scattered/disorganized.
Secondly, the Z and X axis are situated in the LEAST STABLE orientation that they could have been put in; you have two planes that are perpendicular to each other, so they're both subject to flexing due to torque on the X axis about the fulcrum point. VERY different from, say, a Printrbot, which has both of those planes parallel to each other, which is a much, much more stable and rigid design of the same style.

I hope this warning is helpful to you, because I wish that I didn't need to learn it the HARD WAY.
Save yourself the pain and heartache, go find a different printer to print.

Agreed nabzim , but for the Blender part. It was ok for the time I designed it .. it was my first full project and a lot of people made it and was happy with it.. AT THIS TIME !
Guys, It was 2013 !!. I can't believe the Smartrap is still so much viewed -> 210 000 ? ( thank you all for that of course, but it's just weird to me ).
I believe it still work because it seems very simple to print ( it is indeed), but comments are right, it's not the standard anymore. IT will cost you more than the chinese ones , all metal, working better now.
I'm in totally another job and life now.. I will never regret the 4 smartfriendz models, the people, the community and the 120 hours a week running all that :)
Maybe i will write all that in the description of the model soon..

great , thanks for sharing

Hello friends,
One friend of mine asked me about a project to draw PCB eletronics with a PEN. Anyone with more experience can advise if this project can me used for, with some extruder mods?
I have a prusa i3. Thank you

how much does it cost in total

Hello, I would like to have the files without being in stl format. Any format that I could use to work on a CAD program (I use the inventor and fusion 360). Thanks and congratulations for the great work.

What controller board do I need

A RAMPS 1.4 will work best for this. You want a board that is well supported by software. I use the Marlin software. I have 1.1.0-rc8 working from last year, but so far 1.1.7 is giving me fits. /orbitalair
Got 1.1.7 working, a few more tweaks should eliminate some ringing artifacts.

Very nice work! Congratulations!

Hi, i dont get how get the models for the last type with a wire instead of a belt. If there is a place to download each model separatedly it would be great, i meen, just if only one fails, thanks


i am confused, what are the parts i need to print, in thing files, there is a folder what is called parts that has a lot of pzas, so.. wht do i need to print?

also... i saw a version that use no timing belts, is it original or a derivative.... is it any good not to use belts?


does any body could please tell me what files to print, i donwnloaded the files and there are a lot parts, but in the reprap page the project says it only has 16 pzs... what are the lastedst files i need to print?

or explainme the logic of the downloaded files i just dont got it


Hi. Big question : I have only lm8uu linear bearings. Is it possible to build the printer complete with lm8uu bearings? Without lm6uu?

It would be easier to build the SmartrapCore (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117) if all you have are lm8uu bearings. You could probably build the Smartrap with only lm8uu, but you would have to adapt all parts for the larger bearings, and the Smartrapcore already uses lm8uu bearings. All the rod sizes from the Smartrap are roughly the same on the Smartrapcore, as I've rebuilt my Smartrap mini into the Smartrapcore ALU with the 20x20 aluminum extrusions. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/5734afb7e4b0957015602999/w/28057aecb95efbb23cc4ddb4/e/db549b14710200669ff7bbc8


Hi guys,
i'm going crazy :) i cant find all parts i need. i.e. i cant find the parts that are shown here http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/94/0b/ae/c4/2a/smartrap_pp_ortho_preview_featured.jpg (i mean like the bearing holders and the three pieces from the right in the first row) i like the idea with the fishingline...to be honest i would love to build it like that (http://laevus.net/2014/04/smartrap-building-a-modern-fairy-tale/) its the same as in this picture of yours (http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/93/9d/59/f5/48/smartrap_assembled_2_preview_featured.jpg) it seams very organized and i love the auto leveling for the bed...since the posts an the site are almost 1 and half years old i don't know where to get the *.stl from.
I love your dedication to the reprap universe and i'm amazed what you come up with :) genius indeed.
Hope you can help me.
Have fun

-> alfredodeprizio@gmail.com

Mine ways about 7.5Lbs but I also use a Bigger PSU and changed all the Bearings to LM10UU as well as 10mm Rods so mine is probably near the biggest you would make it.

i'm searching for the cheapest way possibile to make my own 3d printer. I saw that in many builds the nema 17, except the one used for the extruder, are being replaced by chines 28BYJ-48 stepper motors (with Bi-polar hack)...one of this motors costs around 1.4 usd...u know that I won't achieve the same speed as with a nem 17, but speed is not an issue for me since I will upgrade the cheap motors with nem motors in times to come...so my question is, can these motors replace the nem 17 in the smartrap? Like 1 nem 17 for the bowden extruder and 3 28bjy for x, y and z?

Hi, here is your 3D printer with the chines stepper motors : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:874502

If you use a nema 17 for the extruder you should be able the print faster than the 10mm/s ;D

Cherry - 60€ 3D-Printer

If you want to find cheap steppers go on www.ebay.com I got 4 for 39.95.

You can't use those steppers, they wont provide enough torque. They might be the same speed but way to weak.

Those motors are really crap. But you could use them if you change the complete design since it will not fit since they are much smaller. But a printer like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945156 uses them, and is cheapo, i will build that ToyRep for my son :) Must have spare motors when using it!

ToyREP 3D Printer
by thorgal

Could you please post the RAMPs CAD file?

Does anyone have the files for the coupler for the z axis that connects to the M5 screws?

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Is there a version on the cards for 8mm linear shaft and a 213x213 bed?

Hi! Can I use the config in github for smartrap (fishing line version)? I'm using jhead and slicer.

smartrap_slic3r_jheadlite_config.ini Version CLEAN !

i cant find anything on DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for the fishing line version

Default steps per unit isn't all that important because manual calibration needs to be done anyway for the best print quality.

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Hello how much will the whole project cost to make? Just need to get an estimate so I can prepare for the project

Hey JayGatsby70 - I just completed a Smartrap using parts found on eBay, and it's difficult to estimate the exact cost as I had to buy a box of bolts instead of exactly what I needed, but the total cost was less than $300/US for me. I recommend splurging and getting a good hotend (E3D v6 or the like) from a reputable supplier, the initial one I got off eBay took a lot of hassle to get working.

Can you email me so
I can get the seller info off of eBay for the parts/where to get them, and just for some general help if I run into any problems?
Email: forakere@yahoo.com

I printed the printed parts off of another printer I have, and pieced together the rest of the BOM mostly from this seller on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/usr/sidewinderinc

For basic hardware (nuts, bolts, grub screws, etc.) I use McMaster-Carr (in the US) mainly because there's a facility I can drive to for pick-up. http://www.mcmaster.com

Ultimately, you might be better off buying a kit. I think the smartfriendz site sells them. If you need help, this comment section is great, and the people at the rep rap smartrap forums can be a big help too: http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?344

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Disregard my last question. I was able to compile and load with V1.6 successfully and get it to see my LCD. Samer


Can you tell me what version of Arduino you are using to compile the Markin firmware on github for the SmartRap?



I have just built the Smartrap.
But cant get the PCB,s(RAMPS 1.4 + Mega 2560 R3 + 5pcs A4988 stepstick + 2004 LCD and LDC) to work just a blue back lite.
I configured it with Arduino and U8gitlib and uploaded but no good any HELP.


The 2004 LCD (four lines of text) is not the same as the fulll graphics, which if I remember correctly is that one you use the U8 lib for. Enable REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER in config.h instead of REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER to use the 2004. No lib needed. If you already did that, double check the wiring; there is no key on the plugs to prevent you from connecting them the wrong way.

Hi Pauleley,

It might be that the contrast setting of the display is set to very low / no contrast which results in an empty display. There is a little pot-meter on the back of the display, try turning it so that the text appears.


Hi there,please can someone send me list of parts on my email? (elderon@seznam.cz) I looked on github and there are many parts: separated_items and smartrap_plates with 3 different numbers.If i looked in each smartrap_plates there are many same parts.I do not understand it.Thanks

Question: Does anyone else keep having the problem where the three steppers on the base slide out of the holder? It especially happens when the bed is far to one side. Is there any fix?

Did you drill down in to the wooden base for the 8mm bars ??????.
That may help.

Could someone send me a full parts list as im so confused as there is so many different versions.
My email is mrgadget26@gmail.com thanks.

Might I ask why the rods which support the plate are so close together? It seems that it wouldn't cost very much more plastic to make them twice as far apart and it woudl make the bed quite a bit more stable. It would also remove the need for the bed-support bearing, which seems like it could cause some problems.

hi epicepee,
you are right. I have a few designs going this way. It would cost a little more plastic, especially for the endY parts , but still ok i think.
You can find also a few derived designs doing this ... and a few more .
We are in constant evolution with this model, until we are something we are happy with .
thank you

The design lends itself to a small footprint this way. This does leave the bed hanging and if you use a heatbed or a metal plate instead of just glass, it does tend to be wobbly. The bearing solves that nicely but yes, it does add a moving part. I've experimented with bolting the bearing to the bed, but that just means I need a smooth and clean desktop to work on and my workbench is never that. Ultimately, Serge would have to come up with something that puts the supports on all 4 sides of the bed which opens the door to a flying gantry system.

You're right Sky :) that's why i went to this : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore

work in progress, but we will have soon this option too ( smartrap or smartcore,, that's the question :)

Oh and one more thing....not to be too annoying, but forgive me if it seems so....

Is there a possibility to use threaded rod/leadscrews instead of belts across the board. One thing I have found works well is having this in Z and in Y and if you can adjust to make it happen in X, I think you would not have to worry about belt tension. Plus there is no need for gears or pulleys or bearings other than for the 2 ends of the screws. I know this isn't the CoreXY per se, but it's something on my wishlist, particularly where rigidity is concerned on the axes themselves. I typically use the rod itself as one of the rails and reduce the number of required shafts in X and Y that way to 1 per axis. You saw the interest in that with the SmartRap through v049. Perhaps as an option?


Oh and what I mean is that if you have enough interest and people sign up for it, I can get the printed parts injection molded instead of printed.

That looks like a wooden version of my Solidoodle/CoreXY (as you indicate), which, after having to replace 3 motherboards, I am going to retire the electronics and put a RAMPS or a RasPi in there. Meanwhile I am struggling with this Prusa which is not happy with me and I am debating scuttling it and using the parts for yet another SmartRap. My own 3-in-1 has suffered as a result from inattention, but I realized that I am better off adjusting my multi-head CNC machine to just take an extruder head. So, what do I need to do to investigate your prototype? I see very few printed parts and the rest is flat stock. Oh and if I were to do one, I would probably cut out windows in the sides and top and make a door for the front (I made one for about $3 for my 'Doodle) and put in acrylic windows screwed in. That made it possible to see the action and keep the heat inside. What I would do is probably send out your parts to Shapeways and make a sintered set, then make a RTV mold out of those and cast the parts in resin or get Proto to injection mold them if we have enough for about $2K of requests for the parts when you are ready. In any event, in the meantime, can I see the STLs of the parts on GitHub or do you have them only on YouMagine? And BTW, Happy New Year Serge!

ho yes. happy new year Sky, I forgot that :)

The smarter isn't ready for now, i'm still investigating.. The goal is to keep the smartrap spirit on one side : few printed parts, easy to assemble without need special tooling or precise operations.. you can see on the design, there's nothing to do on the woodbox, basically.
Also the choice for openjscad is to be able to have all options maintained at the same time : nema size, rods sizes, belts, fishing lines, threaded rods you want ? let's do an option :) ..etc. openjscad permit that far more easy than graphical tool, as it's javascript.
For example, there's no real stl files because, you setup parameters and generate ( will generate) your plates in real time from your parameters.. checkout the openjscad file, you will see how it looks already.
This model will let us also to go from the basic kit as you see now to a more product with metal box as a kit or assembled.

2015 starts good on this point ( better than in paris lately as you saw ) ... will be ok .

I look forward to the outcome and as you might imagine, will likely be the first in line to actually purchase a kit this time, vs. manufacture one. So when you are ready to sell me one, even if it's a test product, I will pay for it.

I have no figured out the Prusa problem, so I am going to finish with that and build my definitive SmartRap before I move to my new i3.

As always, it's good to speak/read/write with you.


Thank you Sky, it's always a pleasure for me too.. no doubt :)

If you happened to browse comments, you will see you was almost the first to post :) now after 900 comments and 110 000 views, we are still fighting.. fuuuun :)

And we will keep on doing so. I have managed to get ProtoLabs to print SmartRap parts for me and if I had the $, I would injection mold them just to create a baseline. From SmartRap was born my 'Heavy Metal' which worked great and allowed for a big bed. My next mission is to establish that to not use the metal table it has now and use an acrylic sheet instead and run it off a spare Sangui board instead of the RAMPS. After that, back to the development of the 3-in-1.

Serge don't forget the the little babys that the smartrap have given birth to also :)
Both as inspiration and the logic of keeping things simple :)
I also wish you a happy new year and looking at all updates you do to the smartrap and new project ;)

Do I need to just print one of each plate in order to have all the parts to make a printer?

yes. all parts are dispatched on the three plates.

Hello, I was able to find and print just about every piece except for the z coupler. If you could re-upload that one with the M5 screw slot thing, that would be amazing!

Great design!
What is the recomended power source (A and V)?

hi jkagan , we use actually 12v . minimum is 5 or 6 amps as we don't have heated bed.

Merry Christmas and happy new year to all :) This year have been a very nice year for this little project. I would thank you all to be so active and give back so much to the community , we will continue next year to improve this design and add options.
The goal was to have a very good design with lot of options to play with and it's going to be the case in 2015 i think.
Thanks again.. let's enjoy New year first :)

Your baby is looking good at the end of this year, and thanks to who has contributed on this great project , Smartrap has left an obvious imprint in 3D printing world. I'm writing these words while my smartrap is printing a new spool holder :D

Good luck Serge, best wishes to all .
!!! Happy New Year !!!

how does the Z-probe work for autoleveling? can't see any detail


Is anyone else having troubles with the hole sizes in this design? I've printed this with 3 different printers now, and it seems that nothing is even close to fitting. For example, after inspecting the part labeled antiwobble_support.stl includes a hole for an M5 nut, but after inspecting the gap in sketchup, it is only 7.78mm which makes fitting M5 impossible. Any help would be appreciated.

I too have had a lot of issues with fitment. At first I thought my printer is printing too small but after reading Serge's replies I'm not entirely sure if the parts should be insanely tight or if I need to drill them out. I purchased 6,8,12, and 15 mm drill bits specifically for this build. Now that I have read the M3 holes are meant to be small (2.7mm) to allow threading without nuts, I'm getting frustrated (I drilled them all out to 3mm). :(

Only the holes at the front of end_Y parts need to be at 2.7 . For all other 3mm holes, you can use m3 nuts on the other side.
If you enlarged those to 3mm, you can use an M4 screw, it is meant to pressh against the Y rods to block them. I think an M4 would even do better.

I belive most printed printer designs use the solution where the z axis nut will use some force or to be heated to slide in to place to prevent that you get any slack on the nut.

Hi woodywong,

That's a little strange about the holes. I'm producing kits with those stl and didn't such problems , but :

  • maybe all my smartraps are a little under size ? ( im' producing with smartraps only)
  • lot of holes are at 2.7mm to be directly threaded with the M3 .
  • The antiwobble is a bad example because I've under sized it on purpose to prevent backslash ( it is indeed 7.78 in blender too). The assembly need to use an air dryer or lighter to heat the M5 nut and then fit it in the hole while hot. This way, it fit tight and prevent backslash.

For the rest ( rods holes, m3 holes for the steppers) it should be ok. I admit I pass often a screwdriver in the holes because they are a little tight, but not so much ?

Thanks Serge,
I am going to give it another try. :)
I will be sure to apply heat to the M5 Z-nut and clean some of the holes with a knife or drill bit before assembly. Keep up the great work on this project.

Do you calibrate each printer when its done as each assembly will give small variations that could be the problem.
The same motor from the same manufacturer could give small variations etc.
This is only if you use the same marlin settings on all of them?

I don't recalibrate so much. I just test assembly from one printer, and when it's ok i produce other kits with it. simply.

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When trying to print from the discrete components, there are at least 2 files which need to be edited before they can be sliced (by slic3r in Repetier). The first is the plateX.stl because it is not manifold (I was able to get this to work after fussing with it). The second is the glass_support_right.stl because the mesh is turned inside out. I was able to fix both in Blender so just giving a heads up.

Hi all, looking to build a with J-Head Lite, GT2 and 200x200 MK2B heatbed. I'm finding conflicting information about the smooth rod length requirement for that. Do I just buy 4 pieces of 300mm long 6mm smooth rod and 2 pieces of 300mm long 8mm smooth rod? Thanks.

hi bzboi,

you do just buy 4 pieces of 6mm /300mm long and 2 8mm/ 300mm long. The mk2 will just fit in the holders ( last time i checked :)

I'm still using the version with fishing line and i printed out some parts with good results. Now I noticed that the prints are shifting either to the left or right. I can't print a straight hole. What seems to be the problem? Does it have something to do with Slic3r or Pronterface? Or the printer itself? What do I need to do?

To get good circles/holes you need to do X and Y calibration.
About fishing lines make sure the line is not overlapping and you are using a round shaft motor not a "D" type. shifting issue is happening when the table hits the ends or the glass clamps might be loose, I put mask tape to add more grip on the glass.

Hi! I am building the j head lite end X. How do you block the bowden tube for it does not move? Do you use push-fit? How do you attach it to the end X?Thank you all

My j-head hotend use 1.75mm filament. Can I fit 3.0mm filament into it?

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I think you need to change the inner PTFE Liner from 1.75 to 3mm and it should be all. I'm refering to this: https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_65&product_id=86.

I don't think so.

this new version with j-head exist with Lm8 on xyz?

I don't think there is a j-head solution for smartrap. Just for j-head lite that its a lot smaller. LM8 is not main stream and you have to dig into various places on github to put together a set.

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Hello! I would like to ask someone who has built the version with the GT2 pulleys (I think it is the I am going to buy the pulleys and the belt, but... how many tooths does it need? Thank you in advanceed! It is awesome :D
Also, how many meters does it need?

I have used 20 tooth version. If you use 16 tooth you loose precision a bit. You need less than a meter of belt.

16 tooth has more torque, less speed, and more precision (at 1/16 microstep you need 100 steps/mm)

With 20 tooth you loose precision a bit. My bad ... sorry. 16 tooth gives you 10micron theoretical resolution and 20 tooth gives you 12.5micron (presuming 1.8 steppers and 1/16 micro stepping). The fewer the teeth the more jitter you get on the belt. Teeth and belts do not match 100% and more teeth lets this average out better. Fewer teeth needs less torque from the motors.

Good explanation :)

Hi! Can I use cat5e wires for Smartrap? The wire used for network cable.

Do I need to use ABS for endx_jheadlite.stl to avoid melting?

Do I need heated bed if I use ABS filament?

Yes, you need a heated bed for ABS. PLA should work for the endx if you use it for printing with PLA, but I don't know about ABS.

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I have used CAT5, too. But you need to add thicker cables for the heater! Do not try to connect the heater via CAT5 or you may get some magic smoke (or the hotend will not heat up enough).

Can't tell you about the endx_jheadlite.stl, because mine is still printing.

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Hi. I noticed on the 4.9.1 version, part endx_jheadlite.stl, the teeth for the belt slot appear to be on the wrong side of the slot. The belt would need a twist to fit in. Or am I seeing things. :)

Hi huxley,
you're right, i've been debugging this one and some other problems for some days now.
It's repaired now and all should be better.
thank you for your feedback

Bonjour du Canada!

That part and a few others show up as non-manifold in Repetier. Also two of the plates slice in Slic3r with errors. For example plate 1 has the bottom support bracket slice with only the holes left instead of the bracket!

Go to https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/ and upload the files that give you trouble and put them through. I had the same issues with Repetier and after doing this all my parts sliced and printed perfectly.

Hi! What folder in github should I be looking if i want to print the rack and pinion version?

The design incorporates compatibility for all 3 linear motion methods; so all of the recent revisions support rack and pinion. The files for the rack and pinions are in this folder: https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap/tree/master/stl/dev/V0.4.7
files for more sizes of rack can be found here: https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap/tree/master/stl/dev/v0.4.8
Just print V4.9.1 with a set of rack and pinions.

On the very last version, we miss the hole for the M5 holding the rack on endX_jhead. It will be re-integrated soon. Maybe it's good to try with an older version like 048 or even 049.

well, you was right PortaMaker, it SHOULD be like you said :) (my mistake) .

The new thing to take into account is that we have now a plate_base and plate_X GT2, where the bearing axis are integrated . It was really too much problems to separate them. I will add also new versions for plates without GT2 bearing axis integrated.

So I'm looking for the gt2 variant with 8mm rod, but I'm not sure what github version folder that would be in? Its rather hard to tell just by looking at an stl file.

The file would be labeled: "8mm" and as for the "gt2 variant", there isn't one. The design incorporates compatibility for all 3 linear motion methods, so all of the recent revisions support gt2.

Hi! Can I change the torque of extruder motor? When I print, I have to push the filament to help the extruder motor push the filament. If yes, what line should I change on the firmware?

There should be a potentiometer (a little dial) on each stepper driver module. This adjusts the current going to the stepper motor connected to it. I would try this first, if it doesn't work use what RexLudus said. I think it does the same thing? What does that do RexLudus? Is this in sprinter firmware? To me that looks like the equivalent of the steps per mm in marlin.

it's in Marlin firmware. I guess so the its the same with the potentiometer thing.

go to your configuration.h file and find this line. it's bottom of the page.


define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,85} //x,y,z,e.. so in this stiuation you should change the last number of the array. "85"



Is that for the torque? The higher the number the stronger torque?

Make sure you also check if the tension from the bearing is too high or to low. I would check that first before you change the torque.

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i dont understand the logic behind of the z axis. anybody explain how it works without servo? also could you please take a pic of it? i want to see it closely. thanks!

thank you all guys! you are great!

Z-Axis Min-endstop mounted next to extruder. When you do Z-Axis homing and hit table
it press switch. The rest done in firmware.
Video here;

It's a simple leadscrew setup. Any motor capable of tracking position should suffice, whether servo or stepper. Position is controlled just like in any other stepper motor, applying current selectively to two independent coils. Was there a more precise question you had?

hi, very nice printer !
any plan to add a fan to cool the print ? (not the top of hotend) ?

thank you :)
We need to work on that. I'm working on a new, maybe unified , X-end for both huxley type and j-head type . There is some work already for integrating part cooling fan.

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1-They are micro lever switches.
2-I'm not sure what you mean by 'feeding the system' but RAMPS is an arduino shield aka an expansion. If you use RAMPS you need one arduino mega 2560, and one RAMPS shield with 4 stepper drivers.

I mean i give the power on arduino.

wow, that is very cheap.

I don't know, but that is definitely cheap. Don't you already have electronics?

I am having a lot of trouble slicing the plates you have here, even after putting them in Meshlab. Can you please send me your GCode to try?

Hi Sky,

I had problems with plate_1 ( bad mirrored parts), it should be repaired now ). But i didn't get troubles with repeater here on other plates ?
I will try to send you the gcodes by email.

Hi Serge,

Thanks. I actually had trouble on Repetier for all the plates, and I am not alone. I also know Chris had the same problem. I did get some friends here to do it for me, but I'd like to get your GCode anyway. I have:

0.3mm nozzle and 1.75mm filament
100C bed temp
200C filament temp

The other alternative is to use what I have for the first version of 049 and then have that printer print for me. The Solidoodle settings may be to blame, and perhaps it might also be a version issue. The other thing I might do is slice on anothe rmachine with a later version of Slic3r and Repetier and see what I get. But do send me the GCode at your earliest. Thanks!

Do the current thing files include the option to use a J-Head type hot end instead of the Huxley type?

Hi joe,

There are some models for jhead lite adapted too the last version , but it's still not included here. I'm working on that ( had eventually my jhead lite, so now i need to make it work :). update soon here i think.

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thx for answer, i bought a 12v 5a adapter. Right now, I've got another problem. :) I finished the hardware part of my smartrap. now I upload the marlin firmware. (also I enabled the lcd and sd card support). But when I push on the controller button there is nothing happen. I find this http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controllerhttp://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapD... and do the same thing but nothings happen. any idea?

5A never enough if you use extruder heater 20 a pws yes

Does it work tethered to a computer?

yes, actually yesterday I fixed it but also I fried it (just arduino) after couple of hour later (my stupidty) >.< Actually it's work but I cannot flash it anymore. That's why I am asking about electronics on the top. Before the fried thing happen; only the heater thermistor worked. None of the motors worked when I try to move the axis nothing happened. no movement no vibrations. I also checked the stepper driver with multimeter and it showed 0,8-1,2V. Oh, and I checked the motors too, with my 9v battery its give a vibration. Also heater cartridge is not heated. I don't why this happens.

my nema 17 motors number: 17hs4401

Why belts? Did you have some problem with spectra line?

not really. It works very well. BUT, we have 1/3 people hating fishing line, 1/3 don't want to hear about belts and 1/3 don't even believe in rack&pinions :)
so..I did all three, no problems anymore! You can choose, and even build all three and see the differences ( with the same parts).
It's an important point for the all smartrap project on the long term, the view was to have a sort of swiss knife 3d printer, open , and easy hackable ..so with printed structure .
When i see the mods going out everyday , here and in http://reprap.orgreprap.org forums, I can only be happy about this view :)

Are all the changes you just made a few seconds ago reflected in the 8mm version? Please shoot me an eMail if so.

Ha, no :( unfortunately. Until i redo all with opens cad, there will be always some little dif between both versions ( time to apply to the 8mm version).
Sorry about that .
NOW i'm not sure what direct drive version i use in 8mm version . Must check. We can see easy, the 7mm version idler has the bearing really not centered .

I am getting the 8mm parts printed. I will find any problems and report back. At this point I must have 4 SmartRaps of various types. I'm wondering if I should be upgrading all of them or leave them as is! I am going to try the rack and pinion version next. I do have a very, very special request though. I have several ballscrews and I am wondering what your thoughts are on using leadscrews for X and Y. Since the motors are all vertical shaft mounted, I'd need to add a bevel gear or some sort of gearbox mechanism.....so you might say you now have a new class of users after the fishing line, belt, and rack/pinion!!!!

Good question !
it's a belt_y_hat.stl in github stl/release .
Don't ask me why i've put this name.. i guess it was late night :)
Note there is not for X axis. I need to redesign one because i thought i would reuse this one , but it doesn't fit :( you can simply use a washer also.

Regarding the X axis one: I had some difficulty assembling this part as when I would screw the bearing holder into the X/Z plate the bearing holder base would rotate, making it such that the flat surface was hard to orientate with the X-rods. I was wondering - would it be easier to have "supportbeltbearingx" be printed directly on to the X/Z plate?
I did get it, in the end, but it was a bit difficult, I just wondered if there was a good reason they weren't printed attached.

you're very right . It is not integrated because of the 3 systems we have right now ( fishing line, rack&pinions and GT2), with the same model !
I need to find a better way to assemble this axis. Yo ucan see in the model that i've tried to block it from rotation, but failed badly for now :)
We will find , i'm sure .

oh right, yes, that makes a lot of sense. I hadn't thought of that, cheers Serge :o)

What are the different types of auto-leveling that can be used with this? Non-Servo and Servo? What parts are needed for each?

I could be wrong, but as far as I know the new versions only use servo less auto-level.

And what parts are needed for that? What type of sensor is used?

And what parts are needed for that? What type of sensor is used?

I have replaced on my smartrap the X axis entirely based on 0.49 design using 6mm rods and the auto leveling mechanism has a very nice and simple design. It use the tip of hot end in combination with a micro switch. The missing thing I added there was a spring to push down the hot end. Also during probing the hot end must be heated to avoid errors due to residue plastic on its tip.

So how exactly does this auto-leveling mechanism work?

The head is attached to https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap/blob/master/stl/release/huxley_attach.stlhttps://github.com/smartfriend... that is attached to https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap/blob/master/stl/release/endx_huxley.stlhttps://github.com/smartfriend... with only one bolt at the right side. This way the hot end can oscillate up and down and at the end of left side of hot end attachment there is mounted a micro switch. To probe the head is moved down into the print bed(slowly) until the support its attached to hits the micro switch. Hope this makes this clearer.

What is recommended to cover the print bed? I am printing on a glass plate - 1.75mm PLA with no heated bed.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll try the wood glue when I get the printer up and running.

I use a heated bed in combination with bare glass. For abs I use diluted abs in acetone and for pla I use blue tape. I plan to upgrade my print bed to PEI coated glass http://www.amazonsupply.com/polyetherimide-off-white-standard-tolerance-pei0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_2?sr=1-2&qid=1392920847&filterBy.feature_twelve_browse-bin=6523581011http://www.amazonsupply.com/po.... I use it on another printer and is really good. You must have heated bed to be able to use it. No more blue tape or abs juice.

SmartFriends Wrote this a while back:
The first 20 kits where printed on glass with uhu glue stick and it sticks very well. But, you need to manage the layer at each print as you have some glue going to the part.
For one week now, i switched to white wood glue mix ( 1/3 and 2/3 water). Paint on the glass. wait it's really dry . It makes a very solid layer.. and it's perfect ! ( for me at least ? ) . I printed 15 full kits last week like this and never touched the glass again. Parts sticks well and pop out quiet easy. I'm just happy with that now .. please try this once ?

Another newbie question - my extruder motor won't go. I've tried switching the lead to other axis, and it's not the motor itself. Is there any way I can force it, just to test it? I've tried putting it up to temp, with and without filament, but nothing I do makes the motor spin, even with manual control. Any advice would be appreciated!

Is the current control potentiometer (adjustible resistor) on the extruder driver set properly? It may be turned all the way down.

Well, I tried recalibrating the pot but no luck. Nothing I did would make the extruder motor move. Any other possibilities? I hope this isn't a broken board or something like that.

I have tried swapping two of the pololu driver boards around and sure enough it's a problem with the driver. I don't think it's the potentiometer, so I'm not sure what else to do with it. I guess I need a new driver board?

You should contact the person who sold it to you and see if they'll send you a new one.

Good thought, I'll have a look when I get home. It seems a very likely answer, thanks!!

hey guys!
I have a nasty issue with my Z motor when homing Z for autoleveling.without servo.
When the Z enstop is proving the bed after clicking for the first time it raises so fast that at the middle of this raising movement the motor can't cope up with the speed and starts vibrating but wont raise the plate.
Tweaking the firmware I managed to prevent this by lowering DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION to 4
and HOMING_FEEDRATE to 30. But the homing is incredibly slow now.
I'd love to have my Z homing as fast as you show in your videos, what could be wrong???

its just because you're not supplying enough current to the motors. adjust the current on the driver, but please read and watch videos on how to do it first, because its easy to short out your power supply and destroy your drivers or arduino. The other way you already tried (lower speed/accel.) is an easier way ;)

Remembering I'm a newbie, is it possible you need to supply more current with the potentiometer?

I was having some issues with my Zrod catching which I managed to mostly fix up with a bit of lube. Might help.

^ This is also a good idea. You don't even need special lubricants; some vegetable oils will do a great job (I like to use coconut oil sometimes, aside from the wd-40)

guys, how can I cut those rods? I've got 300mm.

300mm is perfect for this version.
We use that length in production now.
you will need 220x220 bed size.

but you said in BOM file;
smooth rod 6mm 2 x 295mm X axis for 180mm printable
smooth rod 6mm 2 x 295mm Y axis for 180mm printable
smooth rod 8mm 2 x 300mm Z axis for 150mm printable
threaded rod M5 1 x 220mm for 150mm printable
so can I also use 300mm for threaded rod, too?

I would like to print the current version, but I want to use fishing line. What parts do I need to print for using fishing line?

The current version is compatible with fishing line . You can print all ( there will be 3 parts not needed) But, you will need to get 2 fishingline_support.stl from version 047 :
If you have motors with flat shaft, there is shaft_adaptor.stl.

Can you please explain what all the other parts are inside the "stl/release" folder? Are they all included in the plate files?

Yes, they are included in the plates.
it's just separated models if we want to print apart.

What are the different types of auto-leveling that can be used with this? And what parts are needed for each?

I've just printed a few parts from the new plate. The part "Directdrive
Idler 10Mm" seem to be the "Directdrive Idler 7Mm" with a moved axis.
the bearing does not clear the cut out. It's close enough to shave of a
few millimetres´with a knife but the part should be updated =)
I guess the 7Mm version is used together with the original drive gear and the 10Mm version is used with the Mh7 drive gear, correct?

Thank you bringho ! you're right . I've seen that with the last print i've made and didn't correct for now .
You're perfectly right.. 7mm is for maritime brass insert or mk8 ( 7mm diameter ) and 10 is for mk7.
I will update soon.

One more thing Serge. I printed a couple of plates of the 8mm version and there are several parts on those plates that are placed in a way that is not conducive to printing (largely they need to be turned 180 degrees). Is there any way I can get you to park on GITHUB all the individual parts on those plates and I can turn them over as necessary, or create a new plate as a remix? Thanks!

Ha yes. i'm so sorry about that . It should be repaired since yesterday in github. I had the same problem printing those plates :(
Normally it's all right now ( printing right now).
It's still not completely good, as there is some old parts that shouldn't be printed anymore ( support for extruder bearing is not used anymore.. as an example).
but it's clean now..
tell me if you see other mistake ?
Thank you for your feedback..good as usual :)

Thanks as always Serge! Still waiting to do that Skype someday.

About 07/01/2014 Update : any precisions for the "bad" parts ??? i've just finish to print the plates and don't want, if possible, to re-print all !!

If i remember well, the 2 pinions where bad oriented ( 180 deg reverse).

Hello, sorry if I'm being stupid. I have started building my smartrap from a smartfriendz kit, however I wonder if something is amiss. My hotend bowden tube looks like: http://i.imgur.com/JfprkeN.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/JfprkeN.jpg, I feel as though there is a piece missing, like this: http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/e/eb/BowdenEnd.JPGhttp://reprap.org/mediawiki/im.... There isn't a piece like that (the brass bit) anywhere in the kit ... have I misunderstood something, or should I get a brass union?

Hi rRudeBoy,
In the last versions, for the Smartfriendz kits, the brass ends where replaced by simple M4 nuts. The extruder part is adapted so you just need to enter the bowden in the part. On the head side, you need to put the bowden ( the part where the M4 is right at the end of the cable) in the aluminium cooling part , on the other side of the nozzle, fix the "huxley attach" part with the two screws M3x16 . Then this part will fix the bowden in the head.
There will be pictures today on the smartfriendz site. Sorry there is not actually.
We changed this because we had some little problems with the brass parts that was breaking the filament.

Ahh yes, I see it now - the long thing piece with 3 grooves in it. Looking forward to the .49 build instructions, but in the meantime I'm muddling along :o)

I see that brass piece in the picture on here.

There is definitely no brass piece like the one in the second picture, in that first picture.

What size of threaded rod is required for rack and pinion ?

m5 rods. length depends of the axis length. You can take 10mm more than the smooth rods of the axis.

I've been digging around GitHub. I found the 049 dev files that are for 8mm rods but I really was looking for the rack and pinion parts. Which ones were you using? I must say, I prefer 8mm only because I can standardize all my acquisitions. Instead of buying 2 types of rods and bearings, I would buy one, 8mm. The Y end parts don't exist for 8mm in dev anyhow, so getting this to work is going to require some acquisitions. Do you know if smooth bore bushings would work instead of ball bearings ones? I am using Nylon bushings on my Heavy Metal SmartRap just because the quality of the ball bearing bushings/bearings vary in quality.

Hi Sky :)
In github, you will find in stl/dev/v.0.4.9_8mm/plates the 4 plates with all parts for a 8mm version with rack&pinions. I use this one in production.
The only thing is that those plates have pinions and z_coupler with flat motor shafts. If youh ave round motor shaft it will be necessary to use parts with _roundedshaft in name from stl/dev/v0.4.7 folder.
I will try to clean up all that soon to have better view of files and options :)

Serge, thank you so much for posting the 8mm version. I really like how smartrap has 3 options for linear motion. I had fun using fishing wire for my first printer. Now, I look forward to experimenting with rack and pinions with 0.49 8mm version.

Thanks Serge, I will have a look. BTW, Chris and I now both have working 'Heavy Metal' printers. Chris is printing on a bed nearly 2 feet long and mine is 20" x 14". I am getting ready to mount the laser before I design a head for the Dremel FlexShaft to CNC.

wow. you, guys, are silly :) i'm very curious to see those size working . It must be very impressive ! Congrats again for the work you did .

I have a grainy smartphone video of Chris' running. Are you monitoring your eMail? I can send it to you. I am also getting ready to do an all metal version that uses a gantry instead of a cantilevered arm. The way I have it, you limit the size of the CNC work area because of the forces on the arm (obviously for printing and engraving this is less of an issue). But if I change it around a little and use a gantry for X, then I can really do some stuff. I have a Vellman K8200 here and when you put the Heavy Metal next to it with the big bed you see it occupies the same space on your desk, but the little box that has everything inside it and below the table makes the footprint really the table. The Vellman, in contrast, is an 8"x8" (200mmx200mm) workspace. So the benefits immediately become apparent. At the very least, I can print some car parts now with a bed this size, although heating it is a challenge. Chris is using PLA, I am using ABS. I am also using the servo-less bed leveling mechanism. Another thing I am planning is to print the entire printer in plastic strictly as a printer (vs. a 3-in-1), which allows me:
1) A customizable pair of systems that allow a change in table size at any time
2) 3-in-1 or 2-in-1 capability (2-in-1 is print and engrave, no CNC when you go all plastic)
3) 6 printed major parts (I have arranged for professional sintering of the X plate) which are the top and bottom plates, the X plate and the Airtripper; 12 parts that are identical (the rod brackets) that can be off the shelf or the printed variety. The remaining parts are either flat stock or angle stock.
4) Swappable head design, undo 2 M3 screws and replace your head. Because you can adjust the tension in the extruder, you can use a larger Bowden tube and then just swap hot ends whenever you want to print in 3mm, or 1.75mm. My hot end is all metal, so we can support nylon and other materials. I am looking at a variation that prints using solder, although that is some ways away
All in all I am very happy with the outcome. I just want to hear from all you guys in the US who want one!!!!

Hi, I like to update my old version to improve the printing. I would change :

  • fishing line -> rack and pinion (because the fishing line often fall off. Is belt much better than rack and pinion? I prefer the 0.47/0.48 rack and pinion version)
  • z-coupler -> new design (my screw for the old design is a little bit too long, and it often twist and roll the filament :( )
  • anti-wobble parts (to make z more stable)
    Is the BOM table which is on Github the newest one(0.49)? I would like to know what else(threads and threaded rod?) do I need to make the above changes. I think the wooden base is a good idea to make smartrap more stable(without shaking?) But it's hard for me to get a wooden plate. Is there any option to make the printer more stable?
    Is the new glass holder(lock) better than the old one?
    Thanks a lot!

Hi jellyb,
This release is still compatible with rack&pinions. the r&p themselves are not in the plates but you can find the elements in our github in stl/dev/v048 or ../v047 . there's different rack sizes depending of your rods length.
The BOM posted here should be up to date .
If you can't find a wooden plate, you can also load the three bottom elements from stl/old/046/ folder in our github.
The new glass locker, after using them are not really better than the old one. I'm still not 100% happy with those glass lockers. I need to work on it.
They work well with some plumbing rubber seal , classical ones , attached with some double tape under the glass.

Thanks a lot :)

Hello guys,
I already buy those parts; Mega 2560 R3 + RAMPS 1.4 Controller + A4988 Stepper Driver Module /RAMPS 1.4 2004 LCD and endstop switches.. now I'am going to buy stepper motors.. My question is; I want to build latest version (0.4.9) of smartrap. But I don't know the any other parts -certainly. I mean what's the rods sizes right now? and the other things (added or omitted parts).. is there any list or something to check the parts clearly for the latest version?
Oh also, I really confused about this hot-end.. smartfriendz recommend to buy from here: http://www.emakershop.com/browse/listing?l=782http://www.emakershop.com/brow...
But the shipping cost is almost the same with the parts itself. Is that possible to find these parts on aliexpress? Anyone help me to find those parts on aliexpress? :))
Sorry for my bad English, I think you get the main idea.
Thanks in advance.

Hello, I'm building this too! For Stepper Motors, you need NEMA17 motors, I'd recommend 50oz or more(the holding torque). These are the ones I'm using http://www.makerfarm.com/index.php/printer-electronics/nema-17-stepper-motor-66oz-in-d-shaft-motors.htmlhttp://www.makerfarm.com/index...
For the rods, the two Z rods are 8mm, the other smooth rods are 6mm, and the threaded rod(s) are 5mm.
As for the hotend, that website is practically the only one I could find that sells it. You could use a j-head/lite but you'd need to find or design a different bracket to hold it and still use the auto-probing. As well, with shipping the cost of the hotend is practically the same as a quality hotend sourced locally(do NOT go for the cheapest hotend possible, bad things may happen).

Thanks for quick answer!
I make lil search and find these for the motors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-CNC-Nema17-for-1-7A-4000g-cm-40mm-length-2-phase-Wantai-Stepper-Motor-/130836372584?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e76749c68http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-... What do you thinking about them? they're 40mm and 56oz.
Hmm then I am going to buy the extruder on recommended site. :/

Those look like good motors, and should be strong enough for this printer. Plus, you'll have an extra in case you need a replacement!
As for the hot end(the "extruder" is actually the part the forces the filament though the bowden tube with a stepper motor, at the back and bottom of the printer), unless you can find one on ebay as well, then you'll have to get it from that site.

I sell plastic kits for these here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/portamaker3d/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=http://www.ebay.com/sch/portam...
At the time of writing this I'm all out and printing more. Like many sellers on ebay I can fill custom requests, such as printing the j-head mount when It's ready.

hi portamaker3d, how much do you want for this -latest version 1 july- all printed parts?

So, I'm building a smartrap from the 0.4.8 rack and pinion build. I'd like to keep the rack and pinion(I love the design!) but what parts would I need to change to update to the 0.4.9 design? The one I have already has 6mm X & Y smooth rods, and I didn't see any other differences...

Rack and pinion are totally integrated in 0.4.9 ( this version) . I still need to re-integrate the elements here in a plate ( 4 racks or 2 racks of different lengths and 2 pinions). The 4 end X and Y parts have the 3 systems integrated ( fishing line, R&P, GT2).
This last version brings exactly that : separation of extruder. I integrated krisdaniels nice direct drive extruder and people can choose to take another one ( geared? ) .
For waiting, you can see in github in version 0.4.7 for the R&P elements ( there's 2 versions : round motor shaft or with a flat).

Right now I actually have all of the 0.4.8 parts printed, including the R&P parts from 0.4.7. I just wanted to know which parts from github I'd need to print to get updated. From the looks of it, almost every part changed even a little bit between 0.4.8 and 0.4.9. I'd like to update it without printing too many parts.
As well, the 6mm rods and threaded rods I ordered are all oversized full length pieces(from ebay), and each of the 4 rods is 460mm. Since the extra I cut will just go to waste, what's the largest X and Y dimensions that I can use? the Z rods I have are also 400mm long, do you think I'll be able to print up to 300mm? Whatever the max dimensions, I do only have a 1000mm threaded rod to split between all three, so I will have to account for that. I couldn't find any up to date reference about how much is lost on each axis...

Marlin firmware question: Why is G29 used for auto bed levelling, why not G32?

G29 - Probes the bed at 3 points, no transformation matrix.
G30 - Probes the bed at the current location... (buggy)
G32 - Probes the bed at 3 points, and updates transformation matrix.

Well, maybe those codes are the standard ? but in marlin , not. There's no G32 implemented , only G29 ( with transform matrix).

049 looks lovely, really looking forward to it. Keep up the good work Serge!

thank you.
You all must know it's still not finished. It takes so much time to have a great model, with options with printed structure. but i do believe it can be done ! with help of lot people here .. great ideas. i integrate them in the model... it's improving each time :)

Is 4.9 ready to use because I already started printing them to sell?

ho yes. it is ready for production . I say it's not finished in the way we will still updating for debug and with user's feedback. I use it for production now.

It looks like you can still use fishing line or rack and pinion. Can you confirm this?

Yes. Both ends parts have now three possible systems : fishing line ( need print fishing line tensioners from github) , rack&pinions ( need print parts from github too) and by default GT2 ( as it went out that we can find GT2 everywhere for cheap now ).

Anyone know where I can find a kit of the hot end currently used by the designer of the SmartRap?

What happened with the servo used for bed leveling, is it gone in the current 0.4.9 version?

Hi bringho,
Yes. In fact we use a no servo version for some time now ( from github: 0.4.7) . Servo version works well but it was quiet complicated to adjust for newcomers . This one is more simple to install.

IC, that should not be a problem for me ;)
I still like to use the servo in a derrivare design, (more rigid with larger build area).
I've been looking at the current source code and the servo control still seem to be in there, can you confirm this?

well, with the no servo version, i think i commented one or two lines of code to don't start the servo.. just in case.
but the classical version works great with the servo ? not so much changes in the other version ( just some new defines to setup values).

Thanks m8!
I'll start off by building an (allmost) unaltered 0.4.9 ;)

It should be ok :) I build one a day actually with those files . With the time , it becomes more and more debugged.
One or two months more and we will have a real, easy to assemble printer out of the ... printer? lol .

can i use a jhead with 0.49?, i started to print the 3 plates....

The j-head version is still to come. I would like to adapt the already wonderful version you can find in derived work here. It's almost good, we need just a hole for gt2 tensioner. If you plan using fishing line or rack&pinion, it will work directly.

Damn! I was planning to start print the v0.46 today, and the 0.49 comes out..... Could you explain why the 6mm rod instead of the 8mm?

Hi space,
^mm where chosen because it's 1-cheaper : We use simple inox rods and they are definitely cheaper . 2-weight : we extended the printable size to almost 200x200 , so it was becoming really heavy in 8mm.

What size are the rods that you use for model 049?

This version right now is made with 6mm rods for X and Y. In github there is also a version full 8mm rods.. It maybe needs a little update. but mostly it works.

6mm and 8mm, but how long? 300mm?

The 049 version looks good! I'll be building one this week :)

Hi Samer,
Sorry for the late reply. You're right, i'm always around anyway :) . Your project becomes real..for sure . It looks really good. i'm sure you will have a lot of opportunities with it . Congrats again ! what a work.. impressive.

clap clap clap. simply genius!

Many thanks. Metal printing is in the works.

Hey guys!
I'm loving my smartrap but I have a kind of annoying issue: motors heat
The motors get so so hot that started melting my smartrap's plastic parts during long prints.
Even the Z motor which is practically idle all the time (I'm not using autolveveling) gets super hot
Is there a way to avoid this issue apart from the obvious placing fans solution??

Yes, you can:
-reduce the current on your motor drivers

  • change your motors (take some where current inside coils is very low , i found some http://4800g.cm4800g.cm (70oz-In) nema 17 48mm motors that use only 1.2A. they are very strong and stay cool during the whole prints.)
    But first i suggest you reduce the current inside the steppers. it's the small adjustable pot that are located on top of your stepper drivers.
    Turn clockwise to increase and the opposite to decrese current.
    To calibrate, turn them down untill no motor can move.
    Then start some job or use your LCD to perform some move.Increase the current until the motor is running.
    Then turn a little more so that you have some margin and that's it.
    Afterward your steppers should remain a lot cooler during prints and also you will prevent any missing steps from happening.

The ref for the motor i'm using is 42BYGHW804 from wantai motors
you can get them on ebay by looking for "42BYGHW804 stepper"
They should be about 68/70€ for 5 pcs (delivery included) shipped mainly from china. sometimes you can find the same shipped from DE or US depending where you live this can be some quick/cheap way to get them.

Hi Serge,
First off, great design. Really easy and cheap to build.
I'm using the huxley hotend kit from emakershop. My problem is that the cooling is not good enough. The plastic part used to attach the hotend + fan to the X mount gets to hot and deforms after ~30 min with hotend at 190°C. I'm using the "no-servo" plastic parts. What fan are you using and where can I get it?

Hi espenrog,
Thank you for your compliment, always nice to hear :)
About the hot end, i don't understand because we are using the very same model . I'm using it to produce kits and it works all day long without problem here.
The truth is, if there's a problem with fan then yes, it will deform. So the fan need to be on each time we warm the hot end.
Did you use the two coil washer under the plastic part ? it makes a great separation between hot and cold parts.

Thanks for the fast reply. I've bought the wrong huxley hotend kit... I have the one with separate fan and heatsink. I'll get hold of the right type heatsink + fan.

ho. I guess that's the reason ? maybe just find a way to put a fan and a piece of aluminium ? it should do the job. It's true it won't work without heatsink.

Hey guys. I kind of got bored of trying with the servo so I'm switching to the old school z endstop (no auto leveling) but I can't figure out how to place it. My question is: where the z endstop was before being in the servo holder?

Mine is at the top of one of the Z rods. I designed a mount and parked it there. You can do the same for an endstop at the bottom to zero it out. You'd need a screw on the X plate to adjust how far down it goes before it taps the switch.

Do you have any pictures where I can see it?

Sorry I am just seeing this now. Can you send me an eMail address to samern@ix.netcom.com and I will shoot you a photo from my flavor of the SmartRap.

hey guys!
I'm having 2 problems with auto bed leveling (using servo)
1) I can't get to move the servo. After executing M401 or M402 I get no servo movment whatsoever
I have the classic dark blue pololu servos connected to my ramps and jumpered as showin in the picture
Modified the smartrap (Marilin) firmware as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6msLOR_EfKchttps://www.youtube.com/watch?... (makerfarm auto leveling)
Is there anything that I'm missing, any way to troubleshoot??
2)Z homing is super slow.
This is related to DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. Having the default value of 4000 my motor was skipping steps without any movement (just a really annoying vibration) I swithched to 99 and is working but super slow. How can I calculate the value for this field??
Thanks again :)


Checked some 3 month old comments and figured out that the servo goes in the endstops section.
I checked the ramps picture in the github doc but i can't really understand where or how to plug the servo:
I can't tell if I should plug the servo in the max Z endstop row or in the one next to it (the one that has 4 pins)
I tried both possibilities (always plugging the brown cable from the servo facing the stepper driver as shown in the github pic) and for both the same result. I hear the "usb disconnected" windows sound, as if it was disconnecting the arduino for some reason
Any ideas??

it does not plug right in, check polarity

It would be great if someone changed this printer so it had a revolving build plate instead like https://github.com/kory75/R-360-3D-Printerhttps://github.com/kory75/R-36... is it not better? i mean it takes allot less space.

Anyone? Is it not a good idea with a rotating platform?

Somehow the link doesn't work for me...

It looks simpler, but why change this one? Just make that one.

I think the point of this project is to make the simplest cheapest printer if so a round build plate can help it becoming that why not? If the round plate is more expensive then i see a point in not using it though.

Hi Razar,
The r-360 is a nice project on its own. I don't know why but i've never seen this printer in forums, or anyone building it ?
Smartrap is really another project, and i think we will keep and update the actual design but not switching to another one right now .. maybe later ? who knows ?

Thanks for the response! I definitely see the advantage of having a reliable stable cheap printer like the smartstrap and refining the basic design. I think the R-360 lost traction once the kickstarter was unsuccessful so i hope someone in the reprap community will pick up the torch since it looks very cheep since a few parts can be removed compared to the smartstrap. Because R360 lacks full instructions at the moment i don't see a beginner building it. Even if it seems like a great entry build.

I got a strange problem with the printer. My prints are ~20% too small. But the more strange issue is that it does not change when I change the values in the config.h. I have double checked and I am really changing the values for the motor combination that I am using. Anyone had the same problem yet?

I had a similar problem where the config.h settings were not applied.
Do you have an LCD attached? If so you could verify your settings under --> control --> motion
If these settings differ from the ones you used in config.h you can try to try to use --> control --> restore fail save, which should load the config.h settings.

Yep, that was it. Thanks!

You have a screen ? If yes, go in motion/Retore failsafe.

I assume you re-uploaded the firmware to your electronics and didn't just save it to your computer?

How do you fix the com port for arduino that keeps missing? My pc detects it only when I restart it and then gone after a couple of seconds. My pc is windows 7, 64bit.

I've got it now. :)

Could you make a full length rack so those of us with larger printers don't have to assemble the 2 halves?

Hi porta,
Ha yes. good idea, i will add it in github.
On the very last version there ( i hope updated here soon..theres so much changes) , I have good results with new endY with smooth rods at 300mm.. so we get around 180 190 mm print on that axis :) but we need the same length rack now . hu

When do you think it will be up? I need to know If I should wait for it, or keep printing smartrap kits.

Thanks, that would be great!

Hello, why you use NEMA17 motors rather than the NEMA14?
NEMA14 are more compact.

Hi Ghost,
Yes, nema14 would be enough in term of power, but the fact is : nema17 are cheaper for more power.. so we keep using them for now .

Nema17 is more of a standard for these things. Some 14's have been used for the extruder.

Why is a standard ?

I don't really know, I guess that it must have a good balance of size and torque.

Hello. I make it, nad it work wonderfull, I print using heatbed and print ABS. But somthing strange. All models I print is inverted by X - axis. Using Marling and prointerface - printer is return to home position, so endstops is working and placed in right places. When I edit stl model and invert axis X - it print it right. Does anybody know why it is happen?

It sounds like your x-axis is inverted in your firmware. Make sure the direction the HEAD moves is the same as shown in pronterface IN RELATION TO THE BED. When I was first starting I was confused because I was looking at where the Bed was moving not the HEAD.

When I use 1/3 of UHU wood glue & 2/3 water I get a nice layer for printing, but it is gone after one print.
What brand "colle bois" are you using?

Hi R4C3R,
Ha, that's interesting ! I use an old ikea wood glue , so i don't know what's inside :(
Would be interesting to do some research with everywhere available white wood glue then .
With this ikea one, I keep on printing 3 weeks before repaint ! and it's printing the all day .

Do you know whether the glue is waterproof or not?

oops. I don't know. It looks like :) for me it is.

ok, thx. I was using non waterproof woodglue, I'll get some waterproof woodglue from the hardware store, maybe that works better. I'll let you know.

It works great! I used 2/3 water and 1/3 Ponal (Henkel) waterproof woodglue. 1/2 -1/2 might even give better results. The glue stays on the glass and can be used multiple times, the objects are quite easy to get of the glass. This solution works for me much better than blue tape.

Any help on the auto-level ? G29 makes the procedure, but is doesn't change anything when printing... I have a lcdreprapdiscount (white board) with RAMPs board...

Use the m555 command, it sets the z-offset from the probe to the hot end, example: "m555 z10.1". Where 10.1 is saying that the probe offset is 10.1 mm. Also follow it up with a m500 command to save the value to memory. Reply if you have anymore questions I have a setup similar to yours.

Got it :D thanks. So ya, the G29 must be in the custom gcode.

where can I find pcb for this printer ? The bottom one is standard ATMEGA, how about the upper one ? can you please put it on github?

It is a RAMPs shield. Google is your friend.

There are some other great electronics too that you can use, such as printrboard.

Still busy making it. I love how the design simplifies parts by using the motors as structural parts.

Alright, now the servo works, but with I send G29, it doesn't save... It does the auto-leveling procedure but it does not change anything when printing. Any ideas ?

Guizmo, are you using the firmware from the Smartrap Github?

Does your start gcode in Slic3r or whatever you use look like this?
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0];set extruder temp and start heating
G28 X0 Y0 ;home X and Y
G29 ;probe bed
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
G1 X10 Y10 F3000 ; move to back right corner

Z still not auto-leveling

Are you using the firmware with servo or without? Which version is your printer (4.7 or before)?

No servo Z-offset.
I am trying to use the no servo z-probe, but I can not set a negative z-offset.
So when running G28 or G30 I end up with the nozzle on the glass and M114 reports z 2mm.
What to do?

Hi ,
Happy it wired eventually. But it's true with the classic marlin, you won't be able to edit negative values. That's why i made an update with a new marlin on github ( no servo version ). Offset passed to positive values ( usually between 1.5 --2mm) .
With this one you can edit offset values from an lcd .

Yes, just use the no servo version Serge has on Github. Never mind the +/- values, the no servo firmware handles that, just set the offset distance and it will work.

There is a way to mount a fan that will blow over printed part for huxley hot end?

Hi idanut,
I didn't design such a thing, but i guess there is still place to do ? i think on the side.

Warping issues
I have significant warping issues which can't seem to get rid off. I use blue painters tape on the glass bed for adhesion of the PLA, print my first layer at 200 degrees celcius and consecutive layers at 175 degrees celcius.
The PLA adheres very good to the blue painters tape, but when warping occurs it lifts the blue painters tape from the glass bed.
Any suggestions on how to get rid of the warping? Further lowering the print temperature?
@Serge, do you experience warping when printing on your smartrap? I assume the SK15 was printed on a standard smartrap, and those parts looked really nice. Any advice?

Hi R4C3R,
I print at 200 degrees all along , 175 seems a little low to me ?
The first 20 kits where printed on glass with uhu glue stick and it sticks very well. But, you need to manage the layer at each print as you have some glue going to the part.
For one week now, i switched to white wood glue mix ( 1/3 and 2/3 water). Paint on the glass. wait it's really dry . It makes a very solid layer.. and it's perfect ! ( for me at least ? ) . I printed 15 full kits last week like this and never touched the glass again. Parts sticks well and pop out quiet easy. I'm just happy with that now .. please try this once ?

I'm using Aqua Net hair spray. I just mist the glass. good for 5-8 prints. then just wash the glass, everything comes right off, spray and go again.

Just to clarify, your PVA white wood glue does not stick so hard to the printed part that you have to coat the glass between prints?

exact ! I was surprised after the glue stick or blue tape ( where i need to re-arrange something between each print). With this one, the layer is harder and stay on the glass ! i count more than 10 prints before i have to paint again .
that's very good point for me.

That sounds great, will test asap, but on a plywood bed =)

I strongly advise you use hairspray. Something like aquanet holds it down nicely especially if your plate is warm.

I'm having issues with pushfit connectors and bowden tube. It seems they allow very small tolerance to PLA filament and i get tons of jams at the point where bowden cable threads into pushfit connector that goes into huxley hot end. Does anybody had same issue? Did anyone tried using these: http://openedge.eu/product/pneumatic-fitting-4mm-tubing/http://openedge.eu/product/pne... ?

I've done a modification to have a 9gTowerpro servo. Because its different from your modification. What do I have to do to make it work ?

Well, the 9g towerpr should work , no ? I think i have the same as you . Can i know what doesn't work ?

Tested: Github original Marlin with my configuration.h = Servo work!
Your Github Marlin with my configuration.h = Servo doesn't work

It doesn't move at all. I've tried with 3 different servo and it still doesn't move. Maybe its my connection ? Where can I find the connection diagram ?

Guizmo, the Smartrap Marlin has the servo connected on the Z Max endstop pins. You have to swap the + and - wires in the servo connector. It should be S-+ in the connector. Use M280 P0 Sx (where x is the servo arm angle) to test what angles your servo needs for extension and retraction. Put those into the proper place in your configuration.h. Use M401 and M402 to test the servo after you upload the new configuration.

Alright, now the servo works, but with I send G29, it doesn't save... It does the auto-leveling steps but it does not change anything when printing. Any ideas ?

GOOD !!! thank you so much !

Is it only me or is there an error on the stl file base plate with the Bowden holder?
One of the holes to attach the nema motor does either have a thin wall that slicer thinks should be open or I got a bad print right there?
Only wondering as I printed the parts to have something to compare with while doing my wooden smartrap.

I didn't noticed that ? I print here 15 kits per week now with those files and haven't any problems ( well I have, but not this one :).
wooden smartrap ? ho hoo.. that's interesting ! pictures ? i'm curious now :)

I think this is a brilliant idea. I have had stability issues with the base when I tried to get the axis longer than currently specified and if I am to add CNC capabilities, a stable base is a must. Personally, I would machine the plate out of Aluminum (and this is something I can do in-house). In the corners, I would machine re-inforced L-shaped brackets to use as feet and give the thing rubber feet on screws to adjust the overall leveling of the thing. All bearings would be mounted with pillow blocks which is 1 step closer to my all aluminum approach. Serge, this is what I am talking about with CNC-ing a unit and then mounting a suitable head.

Thanks skyrider :)
I have updated with my latest mockup image that shows more wath iam after :)
The same link.

Since I am taking some time off, I took the liberty of cooking something up. When I get to my printer(s) I will print my base plate/y plate combo, then I will take that and clamp it to a piece of aluminum, then with my drill press drill all the holes (it's a flat sheet) and voila -- no more bearing holders and the two places are now one. Also the plate is designed to accept an AirTripper extruder bolted right onto it. I will test alignments in plastic, but then replace that piece with Aluminum. In the next day or so, I will do the same to Plate X. In my approach, the Y-End pieces have to be adjusted, but even those will be machined out of metal. In a very short time, I will be able to produce all metal SmartRaps capable of CNC-ing and laser engraving. So far, the only printed part is the Extruder....anyone intrigued by all this?

Also don't forget that you might nead to move the airtripper holes on the plate like I did because the version to screw on any direct drive extruder .They are mostly a bit higher then the combo version.
And with a single base plate did I get it to that the plate gets slightly lower ???

Sounds cool :)
Its fun if I can motivate people with more skills to do wath iam after ;)
I have also updated my thread with more wath iam doing and will continou to experiment.

Ok, so I had someone else look at this to check my alignment and so far so good. I am willing to post the STL, but to illustrate what I am doing one shows it with the pillow blocks and a sample pulley and the other is just a flat plate with a lot of holes. What it results in is a 'box' inside which the vertically oriented steppers are and some slotted walls can totally enclose the bottom of the printer. Note that I don't have the holes for the end stops and no holes for the extruder. This is because I want to test fit the printed extruder and then try my all metal Printrbot extruder too. Ultimately, if this goes as well as I think it will, most of the parts will be machined out of metal. Once that is done, the J-Head gets modified to accept the dremel extension and/or a laser. Some things: the End Ys for my plates have to be revisited in this case to allow the pillow blocks to fit in. Anyway, if anyone is interested, I'll post a remix but understand that this isn't ready for primetime and it's not something I suggest you print.

Hi Skyrider,
Keep on posting! I like your idea and am looking forward to see the results!

I have something I can show you....but I'd need an eMail...

Couldt you simply post an image of your work in my thread ?
I don't mind and think its extremely fun to see wath other do with ideas I have and I could learn and change some of my things.
Simply write that you also are working on a remix :)

I will post something as a remix tonight

I cant wait to see wath you have tinkered with :)

You asked for it....check out the remix....http://http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:300306www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003...
Seriously guys, is there interest in an all metal version?

SmartRap Metal Plates
"MAKEABLE" Deck of Cards

People wants a all metal printrbot so why not a all metal smartrap?
And you have some intresting things mentioned about being able to turn it to a cnc machine.
If you make it simple to change the mount for the hotend with a dremel mount to cnc some plates so do I see a market.

Oh I know I can do it. My first printer was a Fab@Home done that way (printing with epoxy paste and had a CNC head). Actually I retrofitted it already and that works nicely so far and will work even better when I ditch all the belts and use leadscrews for all 3 axes. I already have 2 folks who want one of these.....so now I'm inspired to do the remaining plates. I will attempt to get those done this week and machine the parts as soon as possible.

My mockups are very early but I will post my progress wheni get closer in the reprap forum :)
My idea is very simple and use a single 6-7 mm plywood as a base that have the dimensions 120X200 mm.
Everyone are doing this as a bottom plate but I do it a bit different :)
So far have it already removed a lot of the larger parts in the base.
Later this week will I try to post some screens on the reprap forum.
And when I get further here as a remix ;)

What servo are you using in the holder? I have a micro servo but it doesn't fit in the holder!

Serge uses the pololu micro servo which is a 3.7g servo. I use a Turnigy TGY-1370A 3.7g servo.

Hi Serge!
I almost done, but some very strange thing - when connect servo (SG-90) it turn in wrong direction when autoleveling. I have Ramps 1.4 and wire it in picture github, but reverse polarity to work it. May be somebody know the code to change direction? Thank you

M280 P0 Sx (where x is the angle for the arm.) 88 was mine, so I edited this line in the Marlin Configuration.h file.
//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 88,10) // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

Use M401 and M402 to test extending and retracting the servo arm.

Have you by chance done any more 'artistic' prints with the current generation of Smartraps? Like the zombie hunter head or the Owl?

Under my Build thread on the reprap forums is a pic of my scaled down print of the Zombie Hunter

hey guys,

I'm having a problem with the bowden bearing.
It seems that the mk7 gear is not close enough to the bearing so when the gear spins on it's axis the filament stays in the same place.

I believe this issue is related to the torque not being enough to push the filament trough the bowden tube as when I try without a bowden the gear makes the filament move (and there is bearing spinning as well)

I uploaded a video that shows what I'm trying to explain here.
(Take into account that the quality is pretty poor (out of focus) as I used a really old camera)

Hi Ioskiorama,

I understand very well your problem there. I've noticed a little late that there's no real standard for MK7.. you can have from 10 to 11 mm diameter depending of the source.
I choose to make simple and a full integrated extruder.. but of course , when something's wrong, you need to reprint the all plate base :( which is very not nice.
There will be an update with a separated extruder, for all settings .. maybe two extruders because i see now we are speed limited with direct extruders . If we go too fast, we need more couple to pass through the nozzle.
There's a nice rework with a rock stock direct extruder.. maybe a good idea for waiting ?

Both Chris and I are using the Airtripper remix for the bottom plate. This allows us to vary the force on the filament. Unfortunately that also offsets the extruder motor slightly which makes unusable some of the base pieces. I will post pictures of my remix in a few days after I am done fiddling but the upshot is this:
1) I use thermoplastic inserts in various holes to avoid the use of nuts and to reduce wear during disassembly
2) The motors themselves serve very well as a solid base. A small piece of 1/4" acrylic to which everything can be bolted down will hold it all nicely
3) The Z lead screw is slightly angled, but if you use Serge's coupler that doesn't introduce any major wobble
4) The holes for the Z-rods take 8mm rod but are slightly undersized (at least if you printed the parts in ABS). You have to ream the holes out.
5) Same thing for anywhere you have 8mm rod holes
6) The end-y parts have this issue, but the tabs for taking a glass plate are fragile not because of design, but because of print direction. The layers are in a direction that makes any major downward force on them cause the tabs to snap off. Pre drill them and use screws to hold a plate down and put the glass on that. Failing that consider coating the tabs in CA glue and let cure.
If anyone is interested, you will see that you can give the SmartRap a very small footprint. In my remix the controller is mount under the moving table and a heat bed is above the table on 4 springs to allow the bed level to be adjusted/corrected for any errors that occur. At some point in the next 2 months I will make the design available as an assembled model in the US using a Melzi board and, if desired, a Panelolu 2 LCD controller. If this interests you, shoot me an eMail.


I have a question: if I'm not mistaken, you use Slic3r in combination with Repetier. In Repertier, there is an option for the printer settings. If you go in these settings and click behaviour, you can set the "travel feed rate". What speed are you using?

Another question: what speed do you use in Slic3er for the infill?

thx for letting me know.


Hi R4C3r,

In repetier, i let all the values by default.
For slic3r, i've put the init with all values on our github. infill is set actually at : 45mm/s

Ok, I had that too, but at high speed 45mm/s my extruder stepper motor starts skipping steps quite frequently. I can't figure out the problem. Stepper motor drivers aren't hot, it has got plenty of current, 4.8kg/cm holding torque, not too much pressure on the idler. The problems disappear when I reduce the speed to ca. 35mm/s.


he did it :)
But mostly, I have a little the same behavior when i have a nozzle , not so clean ? it becomes a little hard to push.
Normally, you can push filament by hand and shouldn't be so hard.
It's sensitive.. maybe that's why i'm looking for going back to geared ( printed gears) extruder also.. i find them more easy to pass everything :)


With 35mm/sec the extruder works flawlessly, nice & smooth prints. I don't need the ventilators anymore, which caused significant warping by the way, because the airflow cooled the printing ved too much.

Ha great.
I can make it run at 40..45 with a huxley , 0,5 .
I'm not so happy for now with all my tests and direct drive extruder.. I wonder how you guys go fast with your printer and a direct drive ? even with a nema17 52oz. It clearly miss power for me, until i miss something.

Does the BOM include everything needed to start printing, or just some of it? Also, could any of the wooden planks be switched out for a printed part? My new 3d printer (on the way probably) prints 10" x 10" x 10". Could I sub any parts?

Hi lucas,
The bon needs ( always) to be checked, but normally, it should include everything to have a full printer.

The wood plank where retired form the design some time ago. you will see 3 base_plate replacing it.

On the last version, i will give 2 options because we at smartfriendz , need t add a plank to ship the glass ( 50% of shipping glass where broken). So, as we ship it, let's use it ?

I am highly recommending to use "Z-isolator" . It improves Z quality a lot. Such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:220037http://www.thingiverse.com/thi.... it's simple and very efficient at least at my M90.

Anti backlash Z isolator for 3D printers

Hi karabas,
Very interesting indeed. I load the model and try to adapt to the smartrap.
z wobble is real problem , and it's even exaggerated on the smartrap design with the porte a faux.. so any good solution is to be very much appreciated.
this one looks good. thank you .

There are several on thingiverse. Use search. All you need is to print it such way to minimize friction between isolator and z- carriage. I thought about making it from ptfe but really it does not necessary.

Thank you ,

I'm looking for them. you're right, what we looking for is simple. i will try to design one well adapted to the smartrap.

Hello, I'm going to create one of this amazing printer. I can design a z-isolator for it. I'll keep you posted.

Hi thiago ,
would you do that ? that would be wonderful ! I'm so busy with the production that i didn't have time for now, but actually, there is nice wobble on the smartrap i would dream to get rid of !
If you have some little time.. i would be your first tester ! hehe.
thx !

Hi Serge! I'm one of those who's having trouble installing servo. I found a video of auto bed leveling without servo. Does it mean it's ok not to use the servo? Is there extra steps to do it?

Hi gabonatchi,

Well, this new system is just setup from yesterday but im' very happy with it . I will update here soon now ( it's in dev in github, but a little messy ).

It's quiet simple to update : you need to take from github/stl/dev/0.4.6


then the assembly should be quiet easy ( help from the video ? ) .

after that, there is a marlin in github too. BUT.. it's still messy in a way that the servo lib is still there and i only commented two methods. Rest is setup only.
you need also to reload the slicer init geode. we add a z move up after probe to get out the head from the plate. Or you will scrape the head on the plate.. not nice :)

I will update with a more clean version soon.. i'm working on it . BUT..it works really well and it's more secure ( cannot miss the head ) .

There is no endx_support_endstopZ file. There is a zstop_attach

Ho, yes. sorry. i cleaned it up .. it's stop_attach.


A friend have print all parts from "Thing Files". But it seems that bottom_z_extruder.stl is not the same than the one you use in the video "Smartrap : from box to print - part 1/2".
Do you have a new stl file I can download ? I have clone GitHub sources but I didn't find the good one.


Hi Ludo,
From the video, it was a very large bottom taking all both motors, but unfortunately, it didn't help much more than the small actual one. It was just there in case the plate would be "not so plate" .
I think we can find it in the history in github . It's not used anymore.

Ok, I see !


My SK15 got supplied with 0.9deg stepper motors. In the configuration.h I recognized that there might be different motors.

// motors definitions - ! AT LEAST ONE SHOULD BE ON / UNCOMMENTED

define motors09 // version 0.9 degres motors. change steps

// #define motors1848 // version motors 1.8 degres, 48mm long

// #define motors1840 // version motors 1.8 degres, 40mm long . this one has a shaft adaptor and changes steps

However I'm not sure the settings for the 0.9 degree motors are correct.

// default settings - smartrap: uses define on top for different motors config

ifdef motors09

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {394,394,7400,170} // smartrap : version 0.9 deg. 1/16 {382,382,7400,170}


ifdef motors1848

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {194,194,4000,85} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85}


ifdef motors1840

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {99,99,4000,80} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85} robotdigg.shaft adaptor,fishline big


For the 0.9 degree stepper motors I would expect the following settings:

X-axis: 40016/(3,141592655) = 407
Y-axis: 40016/(3,141592655) = 407
Z-axis 40016/(0,8) = 8000
Extruder MK7: 400
16/(10,56*3,14159265) = 192

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {407,407,8000,192}

Any thoughts on this?


You're perfectly right in your calculations, and i had the same values when i calculated for 0.9 degrees motors.
Unfortunately, when i measured resulting printed parts... it was wrong :(
I dont really know why, but eventually, i've found that those actual values gave me the right mesure on real parts.
I suspect the ticknesss of the fishing line playing ? ( when i use thicker line, i need to update the values).
the most strange happen with Z .. I suspect autolevelling ( always Z moving ) with nut backslash playing here ?
I will be super happy if you try on your side and tell me your results ?

Are you using 394 or 382? Because in the settings it said 394, but in the remarks is said 382.

Like you I discovered that the theoretical values didn't work. Your values seem right.

I made my first print, but it didn't work so good, still need some tweaking on the extruder. Sometimes it slips and it seems like not enough filament is ejected from the nozzle.

I'm an absolute newbee with 3D printing, so still a lot to learn.

I use 394.

About the extruder, I wanted to make it simple and integrated but depending on which printer it is made, we can have some small deferences and it won't work as good as expected.
I think soon there will be an update with an extruder using springs ( maybe those double coil washer? i use hem for huxley head, they are small and good springs).

Hi Serge,

After some experimenting I made some changes to the motor settings. I found that the Z axis was a little bit off with 7400 steps. I increased it to 8000 steps and now it is perfect. Also the extruder needed some more steps. I'm working with this setup now for the 0.9 degrees stepper motors:

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {394,394,8000,185}

In the past few days I've come across some issues, which I have been able to address in the following way.

Nozzle blocking problem solution: For the first layer (PLA) I use 200 degrees celsius like you, but I found that using 200 degrees celsius for the following layers would result in the temperature creeping up the filament and blocking eventually the nozzle at the point where it goes from the PTFE tube in the stainless steel bold. I reduced the temperature setting to 185 degrees celsius for the consecutive layers and I'm happy with the results now.

Adhesion problem solution: After using nothing and Pritt (glue) on the bed, I have changed to blue painters tape. The blue painters tape works really well! no more adhesion problems.

Stepper motor driver overheating: I found that the stepper motor driver for the extruder was overheating, resulting in slipping / skipping / jerking of the extruder stepper motor. So for the moment I don't completely fill up the printing bed, but print single items instead so that I have short print runs. Maybe I should attach an extra fan that points toward the stepper motor drivers in order to actively cool the stepper motor drivers.


Hi R43C,
You're right. I think i've changed also on my side. After our talk and more tests, it was too short.
But, i can't go to 8000 for Z..and that's the most silly for me as it SHOULD be 8000 ! there;s no known reason to have 7400.. but i get the right hight with 7400. I will find why one day :)

You're right also about the drivers.. I've learned since I shouldn't put any cooler on top because it cools down from bottom.
I will update with a side little fan to cool down. Looks like it's better solution.

thank you for your feedback. I will try to go down with the temp too.. I'm certainly too hot, it causes problems for small parts ( deformation).


Got another question: how do I calibrate the off-set for the auto bed levelling (distance between z-endstop and extruder)?


That i MUST document. I will do a short video about that , but mostly :
You make a home X, home Y ..then advance X for 20 , then you can home Z. It will probe Z.
At this point, you can go down manually and count until the head is near the plate ( paper sheet). That's your offset value.
With the smartfriendz firmware, i've add a command M555 which setup the offset. so you can type : M555 Z(your value) , then M500 to memorize it in eeprom.
If you get a lcd, it's in control -> motion -> z offset.

Then you can try a print.

Hi Serge,

It worked!

I used Pronterface to do the calibration, I can easily manually move the axis and send the G-Code commands.

What I did was: M555 Z0 (reset the offset to zero)
Do a homing
Mark the spot on the bed where the Z-probe touched

Move the nozzle manually to the previously marked spot on the bed (paper should still fit between the nozzle and the bed)
Write down Z from the display, Z came out at -15.5
M555 Z15.5 (without minus sign! set offset to 15.5)
M500 (store offset value)



congratulations !
I'm happy it worked. You explained the process better than me :)

Go to YouTube and search for AoutoBed leveling....


I just got my Smartrap all wired up, including lcd smart panel.

When I use "auto home" from the menu, the servo with the Z-endstop doesn't turn all the way to the bed.

How can I increase the angle of the rotation so that the endstop points all the way to the bed.



I've just figured it out and made the following change to configuration.h


//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 35,100} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles


//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 10,100} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

now the Z-probe points all the way down to the bed.

cool :)
well done.


I'm having some problems rolling the fisihng line around the y motor shaft
What happens is that the shaft seems to be too short so I can turn more than twice around the motor without having the fishing line coming out from the top

This image shows what I mean http://www.thingiverse.com/make:71039http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...

i'm wondering if the y motor should be touching the ground or it should be "floating" pressed by the plate base and electronics plate as I find hard to believe that my stepper motor shaft is to short given that the shaft length is pretty standard

Any help appreciated :)
Love this project


hi ioskiorama,

Unfortunately, shaft length are not standard :( you can find motors with shaft length from 18mm to 25mm.
The only way ( apart from trying the belts setup seen in makes) is to print a shaft adaptor.
I made one but it's not for round shafts, so i need to make another one .
it works well, you need also to adapt the step motors settings in firmware as the diameter changes.
Thank you

I am looking forward for that shaft spool.
found something like thi: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:240857http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... I may try this or modify a little.

SmartRap X and Y motor fishing line spool

Hello, I´m using this for printing on your smartrap and my prusa i2 http://www.ebay.es/itm/PHENOLIC-SHEET-TUFNOL-SUBSTITUTE-200MM-X-200MM-X-1MM-/360493305365?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var&hash=item53ef134e15&_uhb=1http://www.ebay.es/itm/PHENOLI...
You can print here without 3m, directly on the sheet. Think better, and more ecologic than 3m.

I´m not seller or similar if you can boy phenolic sheet otherway and cheaper, please post.

Hi aleadom,

Thank you for the link. I will buy some immediately. Any solution to print directly PLA on a bed without heating is higly appreciated.
I will tell you if i have the same results ?

Clear Acrylic works great. Makerbot use them for print table. PLA stick to it well.
Using on my Smartrap now. Easy to make them using lasercut.

clear acrylic ..is it pvc sheets you find everywhere in shop ? ( you find so much different things for thé same name that i don't know anymore)

Hello! I am going to try to build a Smartrap! I have some meter long smooth rods to cut down. How much bigger do you think this can reasonably scale up?

Hi dzdn,
Thx for your interest in this project :) it's always nice to see new builders :)
Let's try 1 meter all axis ? ok..i'm kidding.
I'm doing some tests actually with 300mm Y (the base one ) . It gives around 200 mm printable.
for Z , you can extend to 400mm i think ?
for X , it can be more complicated actually because i'm still not 100% happy with the porte a faux system. you can try 300mm too and try to re-inforce the plat_x . On a old version i had a plate under the motor x with bearings on Z. I think i will come back to this solution as it's more stable.
That's all i can say for now :)

Thanks for the quick reply! 200mm printable would be excellent.
I am going to start printing the parts on my current MakerFarm Prusa i3 (6"). I will let you know how everything works out.
Also, I am planning on using 3mm filament, as I already have some of that, and got the correct sized tubing for it. Would I need to modify anything for this to work?
Hopefully I will be posting soon with a progress update!
Thanks again!

I'm wiring up my smartrap now but I have a question on the servo wiring. Using the photo from the github documentation.
Where it saying to plug in the servo is S,-,+ like an airtronics servo, but the normal JR/Futaba servos are S,+,- is what I have.
i assume i need to swap the servo wiring to match the ramps board? Is this correct?

hi madmike8,

It's exactly that. All servos are S,+,- but the connection i've choosed ( it can be other way of course) on the ramps was to use a Z+ port , and it's S,-,+ there.
After that it should work . Don't forget to tell the right pin to the firmware.

Hi Serge,

Could you please tell me of a reliable place to get a new j-head hot end. The current one that I have doesn't have any info on it, and I don't know what thermistor value to put into Marlin. I believe it is reading the wrong temp because Repetier says 200, but I grabbed a thermocouple from work, and it says 100 on the outside of the heater block.

Hi camcknight,

Unfortunately, a part the original j-head website ( where i find too expensive), the all market seem to be spoiled by low quality j-heads. I've bought 5 in the beginning of smartrap production and i never could make them work more than 5 minutes. It went all blocked :(
That's why i switched to huxley type with a very good maker in uk. After 50 head , i'm still happy. no one problem !

I apologize if I mess up the discussion. This is my first build of 3d printer. It turns out I bought a different mechanical endstop, it doesn't fit on the slots. What type of endstop exactly should I get for this?

Can we get the proper bom in thingverse and git. I'm trying to build, and finding a consistent bom is not easy.

It would be nice, but for now I just watched the assembly videos and wrote down what he used. From what I remember of things not on the BOM was m3x20 screws, m3 nuts, and a 3.7g servo.

If anyone is interested. I'm using a Turnigy TGY-1370A 3.7g servo. They are $2.88 from the Hobbyking USA warehouse.

The exact drive gear(s) for the extruder is also missing. (see a couple posts down)

I had ordered the correct mk7 one, so I didn't notice, but yes your right. Get the Mk7 and not the maritime one. You also need more m4 nuts than described but I bought the screws/nuts in bulk so I haven't made a count of them.


I modded the jhead attach part to include a 40mm fan mount on it. I have printed it out but not tested it yet. If you use it, let me know how it works.




Smartrap jhead attach with 40mm fan mount

Thank you. It looks very simple and efficient. Next time i mount a j0head i will try this one .

Bonjour Serge, Je me demande comment l'imprimante réagit quand le pièce et plus haute. Puisqu'il n'y a pas de support sur les guides, les vibrations et le mouvement de la tête doit tout de même altérer l'impression. Pour me convaincre de faire cette imprimante j'aimerais voir une haute pièce imprimer et même montrer qu'il n'y a pas de jeu quand la tête est haute.

Autre question, avec le hardware que tu propose en version Raw sur ton site, quel est le printable space ?

Merci d'avance !

Bonne question, je dois poster une video avec un objet plus haut. D'apres mes tests, ca ne bouge pas a 100mm, mais j'avoue ne pas avoir testé a 150mm .. a faire d'urgence.
Le kit, comme le kit hardware donne une zone d'impression de 150x150x150 max.

Problème avec le Z probe. Le servo ne bouge pas. J'ai remarquer que tu as changer le Marlin.

I'm on my way to building one of these and at this point, I am about clueless as to which extruder gear I will be needing. I'm having the parts printed for me as this is going to be my first printer and the print is from yesterdays files on github. Your docs say to use a maritime models unit but sense you failed to mention which size, it left me guessing and now I fear I ordered the wrong one. No real big deal until I take into account the cost tripling with shipping! So, maybe someone can tell me EXACTLY which extruder gear I need before I go pi$$ing away any more of my money trying to figure this out. Thanks.

Aside from this little bit of frustration, I am really looking forward to getting this little guy together. I'v been wanting to get into 3D printing for a while now and this looks like a good first step.

Hi quick61,
First, sorry for the mistake in doc. I tried to update, but there's always a new thing coming, as we where finishing to adjust a model for our production kits.
Now it's more stable, so I can at last make this all models and doc all together.
We use now mk7 gear models as it is more wildly available and more standard than maritime models.
The last models are made for this gear, but i want to put also a compatible model for the maritime.
usually, maritime are 7mm diameter , mk7 around 10mm, and mk8 also 7mm.

Can we get the new updated parts posted to match the picture please?


I'm a first time builder and wanted to let you know that I am having great success with your design.

It went together easily and it printed very well within the first couple tries.

I am still trying to dial it in through printing calibration objects. Have found that slic3r and cura produce different results for the same stl file. I'm sure its just a difference in settings, but there is not a lot of commonality between the two and I am a newbie.

What slicer are you using? Can you share you settings?


hi botbuilder,
Thx for sharing your experience. It is the real meaning of this project to make it the most possible easy , cheap, and good quality reprap , i would say .. real , printed , reprap :)
I'm using slic3r and i share the settings on github at the root of smartrap folder.

Your Slic3r file states that the nozzle diameter is .35mm, however, the emakershop website states that the Huxley is sold with a .5mm. Are you really running with this diameter, or is it your tweak in Slic3r?

Hoho.. there's a problem in export then. Yes i run 0.5 mm . I will reload the settings to see what happens.

I just checked on github and it's .5 nozzle. was updated 3 days ago..maybe you have the old one ? ( in the begining i had j-head in .3)

Hi camcknight,
ok. it's my fault ( bad doc), but tis coming.. see the doc folder on github.. it's still not complete but will be very soon now ( i need it done this week).
Basicaly, i don't plug the servo on servo ports because all is made in software. So i used Z_Max port ( there's a signal,- and + aligned there. So my firmware wait for the servo at this pin. Just take care because ramps - and + are inverted from the servo connector.
I just updated marlin to have the last version. There is now a M555 Zxx command where xx is the Z offset from extruder value. It is useful because this value change very often, at each assembly ( it's the difference between z-enstop and the head).

Where is the Z_max port that you are referring to on the Ramps board? I look forward to seeing your new documents! Can you post when they are complete?

the marlin in github is configured for that. you can see in file pins.h , there's a arduino section and the right pin assignment is there.
after that.. it should work :)

I found the picture of the pin assignment for the servo, and I placed it there. I made sure that the wiring of it is correct, + to +, - to -, and S to S. I clicked print, and this time no movement at all from the servo. Any ideas?

Had the same issue. Think it's a firmware bug. Servo 0 doesn't respond, but if I plug the servo into the next slot and say there are 2 servos and use servo 1 instead it works.

Thanks for the info, glad I'm not the only one. What did you have to do in order to get the second servo to work and not the first?

I used servo 1 slot and set the following:

define NUM_SERVOS 2 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 1} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 4,140} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

Note that my endstop angles will probably only work on my servo. You will need to adjust it to suit your servo.

Ok so my Marlin looks the same as yours, except my angles are 0 and 120. When I send an M280 command, it extends and works perfectly. So we know it works, and it is powered correctly. However, when I issue a G28 or G29 command, the servo does not move. It just vibrates, but never actually moves. Any ideas anyone?

you angles seems too big. servos don't like minimum or maximums, they just don't go there ( mines don't movee if i tell 0 ) . can you try to setup with something like 10 and 100 ?

I tried 20 and 100, they work for the M280 command also, but still not for the G28 or G29.

Maybe your angles are wrong and the servo is trying to move where it can't hence the vibrating. Check that the angles are correct. For the M280 command, which servo number are you asking it to move? Is that the same one set in SERVO_ENDSTOPS? I think since you can get it working with the M280 command, the issue may be the values set in the firmware to be used for the G28 and G29 command are not the right ones.

I'm sure you've already checked all the above, but that's all I can think of at the moment. Hope you get it working.
So far my smartrap is almost working except for the extruder which i'm experimenting printing different baseplates to get sufficient grip on the filament to extrude properly since i'm using the maritime drive gear.

When I send the M28 command I send; M280 P1 S120. This allows my servo to move. I have it plugged into the second slot on the servo section of RAMPS. As far as the values set in Marlin for the G28 and G29 commands, how do I change those? That may be the problem.

Thanks for all of your help so far!

ho, yes. last line of configuration.h ? did you setup there ?

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 75,10}

Yes my last line of configuration.h file is this:

define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 20,100} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

ho ok.. damned.. i can't see why your servo wouldn't move on G29 if it moves on M280... I guess we need to try with different firmware ?
did you try mine on github ? ( i know it's working here..i use it)

Yeah it doesn't make any sense as to why it will extend/retract when I send M280 P0 S30 for example, but doesn't do anything if I send G29. I am using your firmware that I got of of github. I only have to make changes to configuration.h and nothing else right?

Not too sure why it isn't working.
I guess double check that the last value is 1 in the line:

define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 1} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1

The other thing to check is that autoleveling is enabled by checking that the following line is uncommented.
//#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
If not, maybe try increment servo count to 3 and see if servo slot 3 works.

I finally got it to work! I don't really know how, but at least it works! Thank you everyone for your help!

Hello. Great work! I'll make it. You say it is cap print only PLA. Why not ABS? The only difference is temperature and heating bed. May be it work if add heating bed under glass as i3 have? Is it work? Thank you

Hi martynovks,
Thank you :)
Yes, it will work with ABS of course. Last version has the place to fit a mk2 heater on Y. It's just that the kits i'm selling are not , for now, with heated bed. It will come , i'm sure :)

I'm having problems with the Bowden extruder. I bought the Maritime gear for the extruder and thus have to modify the base plate so that the filament is close enough to the motor to get it to extrude. I have modified the bearing to be close and the filament gets pushed through the Bowden tube to the hotend, but it then seems to get stuck and won't push anymore when it reaches the hotend. The motor will turn, but the bearing doesn't and I think it just wears out at that same spot on the filmanet. Pushing sometimes helps sometimes it doesn't.
Do you have a version of the base plate meant for the maritime gear? Has anyone else had issues with the extruder when using the MK7 gear? I might order an MK7 if this can resolve my problem. I am threading the Bowden tube using nuts to hold the ends in place.

Hi raptor,

My fault. I'm about to add a plate base with m4 nut for the bowden and 7mm ( maritime and mk8) gear. So we will have 2 versions.

Thank you. I am looking forward to it!

If any of you haven't tried it, consider using thermoplastic inserts in the 'receiving' holes of your plastic parts. This makes sure that you don't rely on having to tap a plastic part, eliminates the need for some nuts and you can also assemble and disassemble without worry about wearing out the holes. I finished re-assembling my SmartRap today (that's 3 of them made so far) and used those when I incorporated new end-stops. I can tighten things down now really tight without worrying about stripping the plastic.

Hey Serge,

Do you have your endstops wire as NO or NC?

i think i'm NO ? ( not sure).

In marlin, i have :

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;

Yeah that is what I am most interested in is what changes to the configuration file I need to make if I have the endstops wired as NO

ho, that's those three lines , just set to true if motors don't move because of endstop hit. its in configuration.h line 270

Ok great thanks, I will give it a try!

Hi Serge!

Quick question, when I flash the marlin software onto the arduino board, do I only upload the configuration.h file? Or do all of the files have to be uploaded?

Hi Miranda04,

It's better to take all the folder. If there's differencies between two versions, it can be very hard to debug.

I still need to document the changes i've made from the main marlin.. There's not much, but a part config.h there's also pin.h and a hack , due to the Smartrap's design for probing, in marlinmain.cpp ( Z_PROBE_DETA_X).


I sent you a couple of eMails offline. If at all possible and to help others, would you kindly indicate the following:
1) Location URLs for all the software elements (e.g. Repetier-Host, etc., I see that Marlin is on GitHub)
2) A step by step for the software setup (e.g. (a) Download Marlin, (b) Change config.h....(c) Flash Marlin using these steps....(d) Download Repetier and install, change the following parameters....etc. etc.)

If you can assist with the eMail I had sent that would be lovely. I am trying to have a SmartRap ready for Maker Faire on the 16th as my local Maker group has shown some interest.


Hi samer,

I've seen emails, thank you , and sorry i still didn't answer. I've been busy in production those last days.
this documentation has to be done, you're so right. I think i will write it this week-end with all links and step by step to setup the firmware. I won't do much for repetier for now, as very good documentation exists already.

thank you to remind me it's very important :)

That would be great if you could do that! I am still lost and those step by step files to set up the firmware would really help me out.

For waiting, did you try to google "step by step ramps 1.4 install firmware" ? or just ramps firware tutorial, or ramps firmware installation ?
The smartrap is a reprap, so it has the same installation process than any other reprap. You will be surprised by the number of good documentation you will find, before i even write one :)

Yes I did google the "step by step ramps 1.4 install firmware" and did come up with a couple of helpful documents. I do look forward to your document so I know it is exactly for the SmartRap.

great !
I think i will publish first a doc about the specific parameters for the smartrap. For external builders ( like all people here) the config change always. depending of how you plug your motors, plug your endstop switches, what servo is used .. all that changes everytime between diferent material.

That would be great, anything and everything would be helpful! Especially the configuration change, and maybe process on how to change mm/step and how to zero the z axis

Thanks for the info! So do I have to flash the files on by one, or can I flash the entire folder?

It doesn't work this way. You don't flash just the files. Those files are c++ language files and they are used with arduino software to compile a software ( in that case the firmware of the arduino).
This software will be flashed on the board.
I will do doc very soon now, but for waiting , just go to http://reprap.orgreprap.org and look for ramps, arduino,flash, install software. There's good documentation ( in better english than mine by the way :) there about all those steps.

hey guys!
did anyone find where to source the bowden cable + pneu fittings in the US?
It shouldn't be so hard but i'm still struggling!

I went to McMaster Carr for my tubing. You should be able to find the fitting there too.

are you going to updated all files soon ?

Hi Berour,
There will be an update yes. I don't know exactly when because i need to update ( or re-integrate ) the j-head endX. For the rest, it needs an update from the production version from github.

It looks like the servo is missing on the updated BOM

Thx R4C3R,

I will add it .

Wow, this is really great! Thanks for sharing.

Brook is a great designer, but I've had terrible experiences with his company. I'd much rather support you and I'll be ordering a kit soon!

thank you bluecamel :)

I'm sorry for the experience with the company. I know it's hard to run such a company where you want to build for all the world :) That's why i choose to really share (GPL). We have already a builder/seller in taiwan, one to come in USA, will be cool.

Has the dimensions for the base plate disappeared from the BOM or does it not have one in this production model?

Do you mean the wood plate ?
We don't use it anymore . The base is printed now

so how exactly do you go about flashing and setting up the software? got a tutorial anywhere?

Hi qtrain,
We will publish some more infos on http://smartfriendz.comsmartfriendz.com, but you can easy find a lot of information about flashing firmware with the ramps and/or arduino. On http://reprap.orgreprap.org. look for ramps, for example ?
The smartrap firmware ( marlin with our setup) is published on our github.

What files are they called? There's so many in there

All frimware files are in firmware folder. You need to take all and open in your arduino development software

Anyone looking to build one of these and is located in Canada or the US should check out the current deal that Mitsumi is running... $150 discount on your first order. A Mitsumi Smartrap BOM and more details from this thread at Reddit : http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1x6qd3/update_150_worth_of_free_stuff_from_my_company/http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprin...

Hey! I saw that you linked my post lol here's a newer post I made that gets updated more frequently. It includes the production BOM.


My ramps board will not seat properly on the arduino

I had to sand down (and cut back) one of the solder points on the bottom of the RAMPS board. It was smashing into the DC power on the Arduino...

Thanks it just needs a rotary tool to grind the pcb connection thanks

I had also this problem with all 40 ramps + arduino i've bought. The third pin needs to be cut or it doesn't pass .
Looks like it's general ?

I'm ok with the construction but do you have any sites or videos that you know of explaining the firmware and calibration .not that I'm to that point yet?
Maybe the reprap wiki?


What is the hotend you use in your latest version ?

Hi sascham,
In the last version we use a huxley hotend ( reprappro) . You can find our provider in http://emakershop.comemakershop.com.
The j-head version is still working but need an update . Will be soon done now.

Hello Serge
Sorry to come back on this. I've set my Minitronics on X and Y. On Z I can not calibrate it. Even after I'm setting a home position, when I start printing it goes under the bad level quite a lot.
I've taken out any G28 from the g-code, but still the same.
I've connected the servo on AUX 1 pins as you suggested, but still no action. Am I missing something in the configuration file?

Hi Laur,
By reading your report, i'm not sure you did all necessary steps to have a nice autolevel system working.
Is the servo working ? ( plug the usb and it should go to the retract position angle from last line in configuration.h )
did you adjust angles ?
Did you follow all the steps in marlin firmware readme file ( at the end). He explains all better than me. You should adjust different things to have some offsets from the zstop and the nozzle.
I was just talking about the servo plug for minitronics, but there's some more steps to have the all system working.

Hi Serge
I've fixed all the issues and the printer is ready and printing.
More test and calibrations needed...

Hi Laur,

That sounds very good ! i'm sure it will be ok now. congrats.

Hey are these the parts referenced by the current docs at http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_minihttp://reprap.org/wiki/Smartra... ? Thanks!

Hi unhacker,

Unfortunately not. I was so busy adjusting the model to have our production verison that i just come to documentation back now .
Expect a nice update next week .

Thank you Serge!
Good tip!

Hi everybody!
Is someone using minitronics for the smartrap? Any tricks for programming and setting it? How about the autoleveling?

Hi Laur,
It works with the minitronics. I've used extension pins . With the minitronics doc + pin.h in smartfriendz github marlin, you should find at which pin i've plugged it ( i don't remember now ). Basically, i've found 3 pins not so far with a +5, ground and a signal. After that it works wonderfully.

What is the official print area? It's different everywhere!

Hi BradStaff,
It's 150x150x150 with the rod's lengths in the BOM.
But you can adjust of course.

Would you please let me know what servo (model and sources where I can get it) do you use for auto leveling?
Best regards and thank you for sharing your great work.

Hi maxoutny,

I use the basic model from pololu : http://www.pololu.com/product/1053http://www.pololu.com/product/...

Works perfectly. The servo holder is designed for it , so you're sure it works well.

I think i have some of those . It's very ok. Maybe you will need to adjust the angles in marlin, configuration.h.. last line. I had some servo turning other way than pololu one.
But it works perfectly.


I went to GitHub to grab the latest and greatest and all the files downloaded fine. However, when I tried to import the files into TinkerCAD (to clean them up for Repetier and Slic3r) or even to load them as-is into Repetier, I get an error that the file type could not be determined. Do you, or anyone else, know why?


Hi SkyRider,
Well, I don't understand why ? I use them myself all day because it's my main folder to print. Under windows, repetier, i load thoss stl files to print the production and i didn't have any problem with files so far.
Are you using the stl/release folder files ?

Ok, I figured it out. Something about the way I was downloading. If I attempt to save the file from their URL it saves them badly. If I view them first and press 'Raw' on GitHub, the files are loadable. Hmmm...

Hi again Serge,

No idea. I go to GitHub and bring down the files here: https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap/tree/master/stl/releasehttps://github.com/smartfriend... and while they download nothing I have opens them. TinkerCAD says it cannot detect the file format. Is it possibly an export thing?

It is very strange indeed.

I tried with end_x_back ( download and import in tinkercad ) and it worked like a charm ?


Maybe another problem i can't see .

Yes, as you have noticed, I managed to get around it. As soon as R2D2's foot is done, I'll be printing. I need to get SmartRap ready for Maker Faire next month!

You guys are making me want to rebuild my SmartRap all over again just so I have have the latest and greatest!!!!

I've got my smartrap mostly done, but when I rotate the motors to test moving the axis, the fishing line does tighten, but nothing moves and it just seems to stretch the fishing line. I am using printed bushings so there is more resistance to movement, but the main concern is the fishing line is too stretchy.
Is there a recommended type of fishing line that I should be using?

Actually don't worry. I changed the bushings to metal LM3UU bushings and the resistance to movement problem went away and the fishing line seems to work fine moving the axis now. It also might be because I overtightened a screw which caused the axis to be a bit too tight. I might try the old bushings later to see if it improves.

Hi raptor,
Ho great you found out . I thought maybe you had nylon fishing line ? :p It must be sea fish line written at least for 13kg. those don't stretch at all.
I tried also with printed bushings but didn't have very great experience. I think it's because of the printed structure. It's a real chalenge because it is less accurate ( and less strong ) than wood or metal structure ( that's one of the goals of this project too: keep going with all printed structure and find adapted design so it works!).
I also make the fishing line very very tight now ( cannot hear a note when i play with it like a chord). It doesn't slip at all for weeks.

Hi Serge,
I've planned to build a smartrap, which is my first reprap and 3d printer. I'm really excited!
I'm collecting the materials now, but I was confused by the BOM, since there are many version of it.
Can you tell me what version is it in the assemble video (on youtube, with grey printed parts)? Is it the latest version(0.5?)?
I'm afraid that I would bought the materials (and printed parts) with different version of it.
If I bought 250mm,250mm,300mm for the smooth rods x,y,z respectively,
which length of threaded rod should I bought? and which size of glass is proper? ( Is it 3mm thick? )
How to connect the electronics board to the power supply?
Sorry for asking the simple questions.Thanks a lot!

Hi jellyb,
It's great if you want build a smartrap, i can be only happy about that .
The version you see in the video is the one from github actually. It is sitll not updated here because i want before to work on back compatibility with j-head and bowden cable with M4 nuts. The new version on github works with a full huxley hot-end which uses two brass inserts, not really easy to source.
It is of course simple to get the github files and work with it ( that's what i do ).
rods are : 240mm for X and Y axes and 300mm for Z
glass is : 220x180mm 3mm thick.
electronics board to power is very simple , you ned to read the ramps 1.4 documentation on http://reprap.orgreprap.org it's better explained there than i would do.
I hope all will be ok :)

Where do you mount the endstop for the axis with the hotend on it?

It's behind now, there's a special part that takes the switch and mount on the servo. It's on the right, behind the head.

When assembling the smartrap, for some reason, the axis which holds the j-head hotend seems to be rotated a little bit clockwise instead of it being exactly perpendicular. I've tried reprinting out the base which the z rods go into but it doesn't seem to resolve the issue. Do you know what could be wrong with my assembly? http://www.flickr.com/photos/timkoh/12175171356/http://www.flickr.com/photos/t...

Hi raptor,
First, it looks good :) congrats !
I'm not sure but from my builds, this axis can easy be rotated by hand ( i do that always). When all is in place , i mean, when the fishing line is straight on, you can always turn the head , but it's a little hard and it should stays in place. So when it happend, i just turn it straight back.
It's not very important if the head is rotated ( but it looks odd i agree :) . What is important is that it stays in place ( same height ) all the print long.

Thanks for the quick reply, I tried adding the fishing line and putting a bit of force and rotating it by hand. It seems better now. I hope it stays in place. :)

I do exactly that and never seen problems with it .

Hi Serge,
I've been testing the latest version in Github recently. I really like the new endstop slot design which is much more convenient to use. As for the plate_base, It has become trickier to install the PTFE tube with the M4 nut. What's the advantage of the new holder for the tube?
Thanks again for the improvements!

My classmates and I have assembled around 10 Smartraps in Taiwan since January (each person got one). We have a lot of fun and really appreciate the effort you made on this project. Recently, more and more people asking us if they could get a Smartrap of their own. Would you mind us source and sell kits in Taiwan? How can we make some feedback to you? Sorry if I have some improper questions.

Hi JimYu,

Thank you for the comment and hey, it's so great you built so much Smartraps there !! This is all about this project. I'm very happy about that .
You can of course source yourself , make , and sell Smartraps there, I made this project GPL and that is for a reason : Sharing!!
I don't want to be the next makerbot or even printrbot. I do believe in this new business model where the global model can be better from anyone work, and if there's success, it's shared between all makers. everyone wins..even if it's a little less. That's good.
I'm also selling here in europa ( even USA and middle east) with http://smartfriendz.comsmartfriendz.com and it goes well enough :) so everyone's happy.

Thank you for asking , it's nice from you.

The thing I find great to do is to write somewhere and tell everyone that Smartrap comes from here ( or http://smartfriendz.comsmartfriendz.com , or http://reprap.orgreprap.org and is GPL !

About the model,
I'm sorry about the changes with the base plate, on github is our production version ( that's why it's still not updated here ). It is actually changed for a huxley hot-end which uses brass inserts at both sides of the bowden cable . You can see how it look on reprappro website, in documentation , on the hot-end part. It's using a little piece called the tongue to keep the tube in place.

For here, there will be those parts of course, but i want to integrate the changes in the j-head + m4 nut version, as it's more easy to source ( I think? ) .

Later, we will also make a version for pressfit 5/8, 5mm , etc..

And we still have lot of work.. 3mm filament, heated bed, led light, different drive systems ( rack&pinion), double head ? whatever ..

Thank you so much, Serge!
I will put http://smartfriendz.comsmartfriendz.com on my page!
About plate_base, I have a brass nut but a bigger size. I will modify the model for a bigger hole. Not a big problem actually. Thanks a lot for your support! The Smartrap will be more and more popular!

I've started sourcing parts to build a SmartRap,
The BOM downloaded from Github (last updated 2 months ago) states that the needed 8mm rods are:

Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 240mm X axis for 150mm printable
Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 220mm Y axis for 150mm printable
Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 250mm Z axis for 100mm printable

Are these figures still valid?

Hi bringho,
I've just updated the BOM. it was indeed very old. sorry for that.

There is a note about this on the smartrap wiki (http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_mini)http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartra....
Add approximately 90mm to the desired print area for x and y. I am planning on eventually using a heated bed, so I will cut mine to 290 and 270.

The rod lengths are completely up to you. Nothing in the printer is relying on a particular rod length. Cut them all at 250mm to make it easier.

I would also like to know this. After watching the videos it looks like the board isn't necessary anymore either. Have the screws that are required changed either?