Note: this is now customizable, go here to make your own custom koozie for any cylindrical can or bottle.
OK, I admit, it's just a piece of plastic, therefore ‘high tech’ may be a bit exaggerated.
Still, this is not your average soda can cooler, or ‘koozie’ as it is sometimes called. This one has no inner shell, instead it relies on the can itself to seal the air inside, to have a minimal contact area with the plastic and instead rely maximally on air for insulation. Moreover, the walls are divided into horizontal compartments to reduce convection.
Whether all this really makes a difference in keeping your drink cool compared to simpler designs, I cannot guarantee. However, it certainly looks cool when printed in a semi-transparent material and is very light.
I tested the difference between a can inside this cooler compared to a bare can, both starting at 3°C in a room at 23°C. After one hour, the can in the cooler was at 10.4°C, the other one at 14.6°C. This was with the cooler starting out at room temperature. If you would refrigerate the koozie as well before using it, it would keep your drink cool for a slightly longer time.
Three variations are provided, one for standard 330 ml cans, one for 355 ml (12 US fl oz), and one for tall 250 ml cans typically used for energy drinks. The model assumes standard can diameters of 66.3 mm and 53.3 mm. If your favourite brand appears to have a slightly different diameter, scale accordingly to provide a tight fit. A full can should slowly slide into the cooler by itself (or with a slight push), but an empty can should not come out by itself when held upside down.
For each model there is an ‘xBtm’ variant that has a thicker bottom. You may want to use this if you'e going to print this in a more flexible filament like PETG (or something truly flexible like TPU).
FlashForge, 3D Eksperten PLA
Because there are basically no solid volumes in this model that contribute to strength, infill doesn't really matter. Use 100% if you want some extra strength in the bottom, use 0% to save a tiny bit of weight and filament. Some slicers may omit too much material at 0% and cause the model to have gaps, use 1% in that case.
To ensure the bottom is printed completely solid, configure your slicer with a sufficient number of top and bottom layers.
The wall thickness is such that there should be 2 perimeters when printed with 0.4 mm contour width. If your slicer only generates one contour or dithers between one and two contours, find the setting for extrusion width and set it to a value close to 0.4mm. If you're using Slic3r/PrusaSlicer, I recommend turning off “detect thin walls”.
Depending on the filament, the object might shrink enough when it cools down after printing such that the can won't fit. If this is the case, scale up the model before printing. A typical scale factor needed for ABS is 100.8%. When unsure, you can do a short test print of only the bottom part to see if scaling is required, before committing to a whole print that will take several hours and require quite a bit of filament.
Added a slight chamfer to the models to make the bottom edges less sharp, and provided ‘xBtm’ models with a thicker bottom.
Added model for 250 ml energy drink cans.