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Flashforge Creator Pro (FFCP) -> Diamond Hotend Upgrade

by ijoebot Sep 14, 2016
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Hello ! My question is: You assembled a 3D printer on the RUMB, it has 3 outputs for connecting 3 extruders, in your case DIAMOND. But there is one heater in the same place, how did you connect this heater? And is it changed programmatically? Thank you in advance.
p.s. By the way, I also decided to go to the Rumba, now I wait for the fee by mail, and the same I will apply the Diamond-extruder.

Nice work on this one. I'm thinking about throwing a diamond hot end on my Replicator and was looking to see what was out there, and I like your work. The mount, the sweet respirator cartridge filter system, all of it. Good quality work. :-)

This question as do do with what is your filament tubes come through on the top back clear canopy? What is the purpose of it?

Hey man, about to buy the diamond hotend, what options are vital and which options can I forget about? Most confusing part so far.

ijoebot can you publish your Configuration.h files ?

I'm getting problems with setting




define X_MIN_POS

define Y_MIN_POS

define Z_MIN_POS

To maintain also the origin point in the centre of the build plate

What is VRef voltage of your stepper drivers? i cant find any info on the x and y motors rated current/phase.

Also what are the steps per mm settings?

Comments deleted.

Do you have any more information on how to do this?

what would you like to know? i'd be glad to answer any questions you have.

yes me too i got all needed parts for upgrade now but i'm stuck with choosing a correct firmware for rumba board
i saw information that this can do color mixing but i do not have cyan magenta and yellow filaments now so i prefer to setup this hotend now to print with only 3 colors so one heater and 3 extruders.

Can you publish your configuration.h and pins ? and also put some more information and answer to prv message ?

Regards Michal

Hey pal, I've actually got a 2015 FFCP that was going to sell as have bought an Ultimaker 2+ however this looks like an interesting project.

I'm guessing that there isn't a huge difference between the 2016 and the 2015.

while my ability to print / follow instructions is pretty good, I don't have any coding or development skill.

Is all of the configuration here required in the slicer, or do I need to write custom firmwares etc?

I'm guessing our printers are very similar (identical) any chance you could share your custom code so that I may simply purchase the parts and flash?

Very well done.

yeah there's not much difference between 2015/2016, at least none that would affect the outcome of this mod. there isnt any code writing involved, but you do have to do some configuration in the firmware itself. all of it can be done through repetier's online configuration tool, though. everything you need to know about the configuration that is specific to the diamond hotend can be found on the reprap.me wiki relating to that topic.

doing the mod will require some intuition and probably a little soldering (but you might be able to get around that). maybe a good first step is taking the printer's bottom panel off and getting familiar with how it works. they are pretty simple machines when it comes down to it. also, when you first try configuring the firmware, you may become a bit overwhelmed by the vast number of settings - there were quite a few things that i was unfamiliar with. for the most part, the confusing things can be left at their default values. you can always change things later. i think i flashed the firmware maybe 5-10 times before i got it right.

one thing that kind of stumped me was how to configure the dimensions of the print bed. repetier wants to put the home position in a new place - my advice is to not fight it, and go with it. home (aka 0,0) with the factory control board is in the front right. repeiter wants home position to be back right, which makes sense because that's where the limit switches engage. another quirk is that the y switch is set up to be 'maximum' switch by default, but i found it works best if both swtches are reconfigured (in the firmware settings) to be minimum switches. all this will make a lot more sense when you get to this part of the setup.

Which thermistor preset did you use in the RUMBA firmware for the heat bed?

hey there - good question... i dont recall off the top of my head, but i just switched the options until i found one that provided reasonable outputs. did you figure it out yet? if not, i can look at my settings and let you know what worked for me.

Comments deleted.


I had all these parts and was preparing to make the same change. I have a question about the heated bed wiring. My printer has four wires coming from the heated bed (this is besides the two power wires). If your heated bed has the same four wires, which did you attach to the Rumba's pins?

Answer (did some testing): The pins labeled SIG and GND (either of the two middle pins) provide the correct temperature. The wires on my machine are white and green. Configuration.h : TEMP_SENSOR_BED 3.

Now to figure out the hot end settings...

sorry for the late reply - but yeah, they are for the thermistor. glad you figured it out!

I have a FFCP. Can I "ease" into the Diamond upgrade by installing some or most of the components, including the printed parts and electronics, while still keeping the dual FFCP extruders?

totally! i think i would start by upgrading the mainboard first. this is probably the most challenging part, but it will yield huge gains. this is tricky, though, because you'll need to figure out how to configure the RUMBA board yourself. I was able to do it without much help (i couldnt find a lot of documentation), but i'm pretty good at that sort of thing. the biggest struggle there was realizing that RUMBA kinda wants the home position to be in a different location than the MightyBoard (original controller) did. Im sure you could force the issue, but it wasnt worth it to me.

anyway, that's a huge upgrade right there, and it should cost much money. in theory, you could do the diamond upgrade first and only print with two filaments, but that's not ideal - you'd have to plug the unused flament port in the hotend with some ABS or whatever youre using so that the other two filament paths dont ooze up into that area (although maybe that's not a big deal).

OK. I will try the RUMBA board path and see where it leads.

RUMBA and Full Graphic LCD card ordered. These should keep me off the streets for awhile.

how did it go??

Sorry about the late response. I have accumulated most of the parts except for the actual diamond hot end. I have powered up the motherboard and display and am trying to understand what software/firmware to install to get the two extruder version to work. I plan to initially install plugs to be able to go back relatively easily to the old setup while debugging. I have printed some of the parts, but still not happy with the quality of the prints from the MFCP.

Hi friend...
Very cool project !!! Nice !!!
You have the solidworks files of hotend diamond ?
Please i need so much this...
Thanks for all !!!

Thanks for picking my vase as your demo. :) Very very cool project.

thanks! and thanks for making a very cool vase!!!

Any chance we can get a video of this mod in action? It seems like it could be quite expensive and time consuming, so a video of it working could sway more people to do it.

That is a MASSIVE upgrade! Well done!

That's awesome!! I've been lusting after that hotend since they launched it! I'd love to see some printed results!

I'm working on a nice test print right now - i'll post pics when it's done!

I have all kinds of questions about the reality of working with the diamond, not the least being how much control you actually have of the colour mix at a particular point.

welp it's really only limited by your creativity and skill. I just posted some pics of a 12-color vase that I printed last night. I used a matlab script that i wrote (http://pastebin.com/aWrP3npG) to change the colors. it basically divides each layer by the number of colors you specify, and prints them on that layer in the order you specify. normally, you would just create a separate STL for each color that you want. repetier makes it very easy!

I'm most interested in smooth variations of colour and ideally vertically. I guess tyat wouldn't be so hard to acheive.