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The $30 3D scanner V7 updates

by daveyclk Sep 9, 2016
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Quick question, are people rotating parts to lay them flat, like the cog for example. Seems like files like the main chassis etc would print better rotated? I'm a noob printer so let me know.

Could you make an attachment to have an ipad attached? :) Got recently an ipad pro 12.9 inch 2018 version that i want to 3d scan with. If you could modify the phone stand to be an ipad sized one that reaches down to the table for proper balance and camera height at the same as the iphone in the preview pic?

Printed it (the one piece versions) and everything assembled great. The table is just slightly wobbly, but nothing serious.

After putting everything together I realised two things:
1) The current apple remote controls on the earbud cable are smaller than the old ones, therefore the cogwheel doesn't reach the volume buttons anymore (need to play around with shims).
2) My iPhone XR is just way to big for the phone holder. Need to try it with an older iPhone or find a different holder.

Once I've fixed those two points I will try to see what I can actually do with it :-)

Does this need any non 3D-printed parts like bearings, etc?

No, maybe consider two screws to fix the cogwheel cover as on my print this tends to jump off every couple of handle turns.

Printed mine in PET-G. It was tight, but I persuaded the main chassis with a mallet and a block of wood. Turned out great. Now just need to figure out how to mount my generic headphones. Thanks for all of your hard work!

Anyone else having problems getting their last piece of the base to connect? I created them on 2 different printers and think that may be the issue is with tolerances.

That's what the problem was. By printing the base on 2 different printers it caused the connectors to be misaligned. I reprinted the last part on the printer that the other two adjoining pieces were printed on and it fit perfectly. So lesson learned. If you have pieces that need to be connected with tight tolerances make sure that you print them all on the same printer.

I am trying to use an Android phone with this. I found a good headphone, really cheap, at Amazon:

My problem is the camera app. The one that came with my Moto G4 uses the center button to take pictures. There is no way to get that centered and usable with this configuration. Can someone recommend a camera app that allows you to use the Volume up button and turn off burst mode? I've tried 3 different third-party apps. None of them let you change those settings.

Comment: I had to spend almost 6 hours filing the base interlock tabs to be able to put this together. Seems like there is a flaw here somewhere.

How do you get the iPhone X headphones to stay in place when the cog goes over it? I get like 2 pictures then the headphone controller seems to slip out of the way then doesn't get triggered after that.

What is the best infill settings for this project?

I used 20% tri hexagon and it seems to be holding up very well. It doesn't even use a half roll of material. The price for me to print this was like 5 bucks USD.

For the people who are having trouble because of the camras using the background as a sensor maybe make a target onto a peice of cardboard or card stock and put it about a foot away from the turntable that way the camera wilk have have a background to sensor to.

It all printed and assembled perfectly, but I should've gone more in-depth researching the software first. All the 3D scanning software I've found, including Zephyr, seems to rely on the background to determine position and rotation, and simply doesn't work with a turntable. Functionally, this means I spent a week printing a platform.

Cool test of my printer's capabilities, but as far as I can tell, there's no longer any free way to get good results with it.

I'm having major issues printing V4_Main_Chassis_1.stl. The other parts print fine. Seems like there may be issues with this stl. Could you share an older version of this stl?

Great design, I have printed and assembled all the parts excepting the iPhone cradle. I will be using other phone, so I will design my own version of this part. But I am wondering, ¿is it required the camera lens of the phone to be centered? AFAIK iPhones do not have centered cameras, and it does not seem that this this cradle will make the camera point to the center of the plate.

An idea to make the phone circle around the object, most programs use the background as reverence of the location

Thank you very much :)

could i use a 5 inch buils plate to make this?

Using an Android, how can I trigger 50 pics/revolution? I have a Samsung s7.

Same here!!!!

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Hola gran diseño,
que aplicacion usas para escanear las figuras.


Do you still recommend the 3d printers you posted in the description?

I'm looking to invest in one and am considering your suggestions.

Thank you

I'm going to be a jerk and ruin exactly 500 comments. This is a genius idea. Thanks for making this.

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does it work with android phones ?
could I maybe use the switch from a cheap bluetooth selfie stick ?

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this video has shown me how much filament I need about (1kg)
and a better guide at the same time


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I love this project! Just wondering why some of the parts are oriented vertically instead of horizontally. Is this so the layers are oriented for more strength when it is printed? I can see this will take quite a lot of filament so I just want to be sure printing horizontally will not introduce weakness in the project. Thanks again, Dave, for a very cool design!

I've got a problem with the file V2_Main_Chassis_4.stl I tried a couple different versions from different remixes as well.

It always does this thing where it tries to print but in an incorrect location. Does anyone know what is wrong?

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How many Kilograms of plastic does this design roughly take?

This depends on the slicer settings. Cura shows the exact weight of the parts.

I tried it with the lightning version of the Apple earphones, and there doesn't seem to be a way to wedge it in there without depressing the center button (the one for Siri). Are the 3.5mm earphones from the iPhone 5/6 any better? Was there an even earlier version that didn't have the center button?

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I tried this when I first got my 3d printer. the print was a mess I know my fault I used the filament that came with my printer it was old and brittle. anyway I lost track of the file and couldn't find the design until now. it accually inspired me and was actually thinking about buying a 3d scanner then found this and it gave me an idea to use a cat toy to do the same thing. you just add a platform and a cellphone to circular design and scan. Then use the power from the phone itself and a program to do it all. The product was Petlinks Mystery Motion Concealed Electronic Motion Cat Toy By Petlinks if anyone gets's to thinking.

Did the pet toy work ok? If you used it have you a photo?

I have this printed, but I'm confused on the software. Is there software available for the iphone?

The software needed is in the description/notes. You only use the phone to take the pictures, then use the photogrammertry software to stitch the different pictures to make a pointcloud, then import that pointcloud into other software to edit that cloud and then export that as a 3D object to be printed. Please read the full description of the process in the notes. There are also great videos on the entire workflow process.

its in the description

I looked too. he may not have finished it yet or he wanted you to make you're own.
side note: Grammarly is really starting to irritate making me fix my grammar! lol!

Could try "Qlone"

I noticed a conflict between the The $30 3D scanner claim and the use of 3DF Zephyr 3D Flow free scanning software. The 30-dollar scanner design description claims, "The volume controllers trigger the camera remotely, taking 55 pictures for every complete rotation of the turntable." However, the FREE 3DF Zephyr 3DFLOW software is limited to 50 pictures or frames. Does that mean the resulting object will not be complete? Will it have a vertical split where the edges don't meet?

If so, the price of the scanner rose from $30 to $200 in order to complete the full 360.

Has anyone tried it with the FREE 3DF Zephyr 3DFLOW software ?

I have this same question. The description actually lists that it takes 55 and 50 shots. Which is correct?

Hey all, can someone please explain to me how the headphone part works? as in how do you actually get it in there to start taking pics. How do you ensure it presses down on the volume button?

yes but in conclusion .. the results ?? picture .. video

This is so awesome! I would print this instantly if my printer had enough space.

Hi. This design is amazing!! Thank you. I am new to 3D printing and I am currently using a Prusa i3 MK3 printer with Slic3r software to compile my gcode. I have printed the turntable twice and the gear teeth in several sections are breaking off easily. There are about half of the teeth that break off by the touch, and the other half off the teeth can take a good deal of pressure without breaking. Does anyone have any recommendations on what settings I can change to prevent this from occurring? I know the teeth can bond to the layers underneath because half of them feel very strong. The STL file came vertically set and I rotated it to print flat on my build plate. Could this be an issue?

Might be wrong but i get better layer adhesion and strength when printing with higher temp

Any video how to add all the part?

This was very difficult to put together i had to do a lot of adjustments also the cog doesn't like Samsung headphones it causes the phone t take burst shots any work around

You could turn burst mode off in your camera settings :)

The amount of advertisements for Gearbest in the description is fucking obnoxious. Fellate Gearbest some more.

Yeah whole pile of them added along with referrer ID after being featured.

He offers this product for free and you wanna get pissy that he wants to get a sponsor from them? lol

It really is a very good design.
Which program or method did you use to split the model


Printing great so far, but I've noticed the v2 iPhone cradle is much too wide for the main chassis (the version printed in four pieces).

Any suggestions on what I can do?


Will this work with the Galaxy S8?

I'm still confused on which pieces I need, the instructions weren't too clear. Are these the ones I would need for a small printer size? See picture below:

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So I can I use the app on my phone and go scan something bring it back and print it

Can you provide any examples of the resulting scans?

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Is there a working Apple IPhone app that can be used ?

Hi Daveyclk,
I have had great fun printing this turn table, and it goes together great.
I do have one problem maybe you could help me with, that is the cog runs very loosely over the iPhone headphones volume buttons, which means it wont take pics... have i missed something? could you advise.

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Tried it many times, but each time when printing the V4_Main_Chassis_1 stl the 2nd semi-circle tower just breaks away. Upon further investigation, all of the semi-circles appear to be very weak, easily break off. Can I get back to the V1_Main_Chassis_1.stl ? Tried using Cura and Simplify3D software. Any help?
Thx, Dennis

I had the same problem. The issue is caused by the slicer creating a surface at the base of the tower so the whole tower is only held to this surface by the strength of the layer boundary. Can be fixed by editing the mesh to put a hollow tube inside the tower so that the tube perimeters pash through the top layer of the base.

Can I use this with a galaxy note 8?

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Can anyone (including the original designer) remix this for the IPad Pro, so it can scan bigger things???

can't you just print the hole thing in something like 200%?

Has anyone else had trouble downloading the application for this? I have galaxy s7 edge and it won't work.

Anyone tested this with Sony Phone 3D scanner ?

I have Sony XZ1, it has the 3D scanner, but I still didn't open my 3D printer, I am waiting for a filter.
Can this be printed on the Flashforge Dreamer? Or are the parts too big to be printed with it?

They all fit mine so far

Ok, thanks.
God bless you :)

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will this work with samsung s8+ ?

So I've finished the print. And well I guess on the 3d r1plus there's aloooot of post prepping. Because it did not go together nicely. So I tried downloading the software so I can try it out. And it's telling me it can not open file. Anyone else have issues. What can I do or is myh trable now a paper weight?

I printed this using FAST settings on Prusa Slic3r and an I3 MK2s. Everything went together well except the Cog Cover which needed a little sanding. I've used iPhone headphones to try to get the pictures taken using the Cog, but there does not seem to be a way to get the volume control close enough to the cog for pictures to be taken. My Android (preferred) volume control is too large to fit in the area reserved for this. The construction video could use more detail regarding where the parts go and how they all fit together.
However - between the crank having circles in it and the unit being very stable, I can take pictures using the position of the crank as an indicator for when I should manually take a picture.

I've not yet had luck using Zephyr 3D Free. The best I have gotten so far is the lowest 1/4 of a chess piece. I think lighting is absolutely critical for getting your photos compliant with 3D Zephyr. I'm now preparing a light source, tripod and evenly lit room for a DSLR set to Manual.
Cannot stress enough how much more important it is to get good pictures than it is to use a turntable.

This was an absolutely stunning build. I'm still creating single parts and working to design several parts that mate together. I'm so impressed with the attention to detail in this design.

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I have been printing this setup for the past several months. with several printer malfunctions lol. Finally got it running again. Lets CONTINUE!!!

So printing this setup, concludes what i need? Besides the software? I really need to design my own prints instead of using others lol.

Will the automatic picture taking thing work for android? Specifically the Samsung Galaxy s6

Very cool, this could be converted using a cheap servo or brushed motor to rotate the table at a set speed. Will give it a try, i have a couple of 4k cameras and some "action" cameras that might serve as the capture device.
I would assume that capturing at 1080/60fps would provide a reasonable reproduction of the source item ? And hence using a measured rotation in degrees per sec would only improve... or at best not hurt the captured image.

Printed great on my i2 Samuel xl in one piece files. Sadly there doesn't seem to be any software anymore that can process the images into an even close to usable model. At least within my budget

I think there is a free Version of 3DF ZEPHYR available at theire Website

Thanks for the heads up, I've added the link to the free version on my page

this is great info.... im excited.

Never got the headphones button to work, no matter what I tried so it's in the bin now.

I had to download a different camera app for my note 5 to get it to work with the headphone button press

Which app did you use? I downloaded Automate It and made a profile to use the button on mine. Now just need to figure out how to mount my headphones. Generic from wallyworld.

Anyone tried to scale it down? I suppose it would still works, except for the phone holder!

I noticed that I reversed x and y axis on my printer and I am already printing 20hours the chassis.
Should 3d scanner work fine if I print everything reversed?
Thank you

Well.... no free software anymore...

Main Chassis isn't support free, Its unclear if i have to use support. And what about density / quality?

thank you, will try it out when I get a printer :)… let U know. Thanks again for sharing your design, cheers !

Just curious. What is everyone using now that 123d went subscription a while back. I tried two on the app store after and both sucked compared to 123d

everyone asking if it compatible with this and that.....its compatible with everything that has a camera!
-Place something with a camera on the camera stand
-place part on plate
-start filming
-rotate a few revolutions
-transfer video to PC
-convert video to images (30images*seconds=num of images)
-import images to opensource visualSFM program.....or any other structure from motion software
-you get point cloud
-now depends on the program, matlab can transform point cloud directly to .stl
-thats it

google structure from motion for details, i din't write all software steps, b'cous half of it i have written myself, some of it is pirated....but you get the idea. find software suitable for You

Great looking design!
Is this design usable with, lets say any other phone then a Iphone?
Or easy customisable to make it work with a other phone?

will you be making this compatable with android phones at all? and great desighn

I really love this design!

I ordered everthing today! I was lucky it is Banggood Sale and i got 11% Discount on almost every Part:


Thank you for your Design!

This looks REALLY cool! I do have a couple questions, though.

  1. Is this compatible with the iPhone 7? I know a couple of designs aren't because there is no headphone jack.
  2. Will all of the parts print (separately, of course) on a 6x6x6in (or 152x152x152mm) platform, or will I need to break some of them up?


You don't need to thank thingiverse, don't give away any of your glory. You built this and it would have been popular even if they didn't 'feature' it. YOU did a great job! Thanks!

It's pretty clear from the comments that few people have actually successfully made this model and far fewer still generated meaningful STL from photos. I have to say, it is an extremely clever idea, and the modeling is quite nice. That said, there are a number of flaws which make it more frustrating than useful:

1) Part tolerances: I printed this on my Prusa i3 MK2s, which is quite accurate, and generates pieces that are more true to model specs than others, which typically create parts a bit larger than spec. So, for example, the crank wheel stem has a lot of slop fitting in the cog. I used tape to tighten it, but it's a pain. Similarly, other moving pieces have a lot of slop as well, and pieces like the cog cover need to be held in place with adhesive. Perhaps it's designing for the lowest common denominator.

2) As many comments have noticed, the volume control will sit too low to be reliably engaged. There are remix stoppers, which help somewhat, but I found I need to add a few layers of tape here as well. The trick here is that if you lift it too much you will engage the other volume button (stuck on), which causes the phone to not register any clicks. It's frustrating.

3) Camera lens location: The iPhone cradle is designed and located for a center-located camera lens, however, the iPhone lens is quite offset. If you actually place the object in the center of the camera's lens it will rotate out of view for many of the frames! This leaves a very small usable portion of the field of view. The creator shows a model of a larger rabbit as an example, but I would suggest that nothing larger than a tiny figurine could be modeled.

Again, I'm not hating on this. It's a really good start towards a project that could be reliably useful. And, unlike many publicly available models, it was a breeze to print -- the designer clearly put a lot of time into that!

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What is the size of the largest piece? My printer only prints 145w x155L x 130h. Can I print all the parts?

Can you upscale the model and keepthe sizing of the pone stand to scan larger objects?

Does the fact that you can't tilt the phone stand on this prevent you from getting a good scan from all angles of a model? It looks like if there's a lot of detail under an overhang you won't be able to scan it?

Dumb question, but does color affect the turn table? Would white me okay, or does it need to be colored? Thanks and great design!

Hi, im printing these out piece by piece, but getting a lot of warping with the chassis pieces.

don;t see anyone else mention this in the comments. are there any specific settings i can do to alleviate the warping?

I hear differing opinions on bed temperature. and print speed, is there anything definitive?

im using .15mm, 15%, 60mm/s print , 120mm/s travel, 200 degrees extruder, and 60degree bed temp. mostly all default settings on cura 2.5.

i haven't tried using a raft yet.


I print in PLA at 190. But I keep the bed at 50 (straight onto glass, no glue or tape). I do this so the first layer solidifies in a timely manner. If the first layer is in its glass state above 60, and then the subsequent layers on top cool and solidify with the fan, they contract in size. This contraction will pull up the bottom molten layer (warping). Use clean 3mm glass, or tape etc and keep bed temp 50 or less.
When the print finishes, the bed cools and contracts making the print pop off easily. And it has a nice smooth bottom!
Brims help with small surface area contact prints.

Try hairspray or purple glue stick on the bed.

If you're seeing the warping on the bed plate, can try using a brim. A raft can do it too but it's more filament

Dunno what kind of filament you're using but maybe 60 degree bed temp isn't enough. If most things print well then might try the brim/raft first

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Hi Dave,

I just downloaded this, starting to print. took me a while to get started cause i wanted to get my colors coordinated, haha

wanted to say thanks, it looks like a lot of work went into this.
and you are making it available free. appreciate it very much.

Can the software use pics of the object at other angles? Essentially, can you lay the model on its side and scan it, adding those pics?

Wont print on my MP Select Mini, exceeded print volume.
Is there a possibility to make a smaller unit ?

There's a remixed version that is compatible with the mini.

On my 160x160x160 scanner I can print everything, except the turntable.
Would be nice if it was cut in 3 (say within 150x150x150) for smaller printers.

Since the Fusion360 files are available, I can do it myself. But the rest fits nicely on a small scanner. Did not discover this before I needed the turntables last.

can somebody print it for me for a budget $$

i printed mine so far but so many difficult support remove in smartphone holder and one other piece broke down during cleaning and i am pissed.

i am from austria

took a while but finally finished printing all the parts, however I found as I was rotating the turntable that the teeth on the turntable were very fragile and broke off very quickly. this is probably an issue with my specific printer. would it be possible to increase the depth of the teeth ie make them wider to maybe 7 mm. I think this would prevent the snapping ? I am not much of 3d modeller so wouldn't know where to start. thanks

maybe i am missing it but is it possible to get the base that is not chopped up into smaller pieces?

As far as I know, no. But it's not that hard to merge them in something like meshmixer and reupload.

\where do I find the settings for this project... infill? res? I am using a makerbot replicator +

You alone will know the most appropriate settings to use depending on what model you're printing on your machine. I did 20% infill for the chassis parts, layer heights between .25mm and .4mm on my Duplicator i3. I haven't printed the crank or handles yet but I will probably do 30% infill with 3 walls.

hi i printed everything whew long print job! had problems with dove tail so i had to sand and use heat gun. no biggie
but the make issue i got now is that the head button is too tight when i put is in the slot it push the - button and i am not sure if the cog even reaches yet the + button.
printed at .2 layers and .35 nozzle.

Any ideas?

how do it take the pics.do i take the pictures or it does it automatic

You take the photos by plugging headphones in and putting the headphone controls in the turntable. The gigs press the button to take a photo as it turns. There is a video somewhere.

my button is not triggered, too much distance, too less tightness. don't think I made a mistake at the assemble.
would like to see a video...

I got around this by putting some paper under the switch to raise it up enough for the cog to engage it

You are quite the engineer :p Not sure how people manage to 3D print this yet get stuck here lol.

Haven't even built it yet. But based on the original poster's responses, he rocks! Going to print using transparent PLA Microswiss hotend. Suggestions on setting for the MSelect V2.1? I've seen others in the comments but never from a fellow MS owner.

The headphone button activator on the gear doesn't reach or touch my headphones buttons to activate the camera.

Any ideas why?

Your headphone button must be thinner. Try putting something behind it.

You have some really smooth surfaces. Is that from sanding or a specific plate temperature?

Im sorry I printed this on a taz5 at .4mm and the pieces do not fit to gather , I am having to do a lot of filing. the dove and tale are the same size.

I just finished printing mine on the Prusa Mk2 i3s with no issues. Very smooth print on default normal settings with the exception of infill which i dropped to 10%. Fit was perfect with almost snap in place precision. Could have gotten away without even gluing.

Used the Prusa version of Slic3r to slice if that makes any difference

I have the same problem with a pursa i3, used a shell thickness of 1.2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. Layer thickness was 0.2mm

Amazing design!
However - I tried using it with the headphones that came with my iPhone 7, and the cog does not reach the volume button of the control. Am I doing something wrong?

I do have a educational licence for REMAKE so I can upload up to 250 pics. Is there a way to modify your mechanism to get a higher detailed Resolution? Or is 50 pics per part enough?

Printed mine and love it - I haven't found any headphones yet so I just manually took photos while turning it. My question - the photos are taken vertical but in Remake import horizontally. All my attempts in Remake result in a fail. I wonder if it is the orientation of the photos? Any suggestions for a tutorial with a workflow once you've taken photos?

I bought my headphones off eBay for under $3. Haven't tried them yet but they are the type needed.

Thank you for this project!
Can I change the orientation of individual objects to print them with less supports? Or are they intended in these orientations to make them stronger at certain points?

Hello, and thank you! Feel free to orientate the parts for the least amount of support structure

I have full Adobe Creative Suite. Is there a way to make this work using that software?

Not thank I know of i'm afraid


10" X 11" X 2 1/3"

It's pretty big when assembled, but it's split up so the parts are small enough to fit on most 3D printers


hey, I love the idea and would gladdly tip for the advice or buy the update ...if you could tell me how to make the big platform on a little Replicator 2. it is too big i need it built in two pieces or something

Hi There

The turntable has been split up into 3 parts exactly with a Replicator 2 in mind (this was my first 3D printer)
The files are available in the downloads. The full list of parts you need is available in the FAQ



I am unsure how to use the 'Stopper' part, I presume it goes into the slit below the cog but it just falls out. (What is it supposed to do & if it is supposed to be in that slot how should I properly retain it?)

It's press fit, so friction should hold it in place

Have a look at this remix for the stoppper, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2325019 this show's how it fits really well


3D Scanner stopper shimmed
by l337h4l

Ahh I see. I'll try the stopper shim tonight as the cog is not quite managing to depress the button. Also the Cog cover piece could do with 2 walls coming down to retain the cog it it's correct position. On mine its loose enough to misalign (sliding just under one side of the viewing slit) & pop the cover up.

Hello again daveyclk, i’m sure you’ve seen that Autodesk had decided to be a huge D*** to mac users and has retired remake for mac. Any suggestions for different software?

Yeah it sucks to be honest! The open source community to the rescue! have a look at the the VisualSFM + Meshlab workflow here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEAbXYDzUjU it may take some experimenting with the mac versions (the tutorial is done for PC but their are mac versions available)

Hope this helps

Thanks! I’ll give it a go when I’m finished working on a reprap machine.

Flat piece for the headphone volume need glued in place? Seems very loose

it seems to vary by headphone! thanks for posting your stopper remix, it looks awesome

No problem that's iPhone 7 control.
One current issue you have is the lightning cable can't pass through the chassis base where the 3mm audio jack goes. I am going to drill it out but time for a v4.
.3585" x .2065" is the exact measurement. Of course size up for easy install.

I've updated to V4 so you can now use a lightening connector or USB C, thanks for the heads up!


LG G5, no headphones. Can it still work if i just use my finger to take the pics?

absolutely, just turn the turn table a little and take a picture each time
good luck!

Hi, I have big problems in Autodesk Remake...it's impossible for me to have a good model, it's always a model without some big parts...how can you obtain the model from only 50 photos of the object in various side form only one point of view?

Try the open source way here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEAbXYDzUjU it's a cool work flow and seems to work well


and what layer resolution and nozzle size?

hello, i printed mine in PLA with a layer height of 0.2mm nozzle size 0.4mm

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Hi Daveyclk,

I printed and assembled this and love it. It blows people's minds when I say I have printed a scanner that allows me to scan 3D objects and print them! One problem I had was that I found a bit of play in the cog which caused it to lift the cog cover. I don't know if I missed a part or did something wrong but I created a "washer" to stop the cog slipping too far into the machine. If it is of any use I can upload it.


Hi Tim

Thanks very much! i really appreciate it

There is a new version of the cog cover availble that may help. failing that, perhaps a spot of glue to hold things in place


Thanks Dave,

Now why didn't I think of the sensible solution of a bit of glue... Thanks again for a great design.


I put a dab of acetone under each side and held if for a few seconds. It's pretty solid now. Acetone is my favorite ABS glue

Thanks but does not work.
Too much functional play in the assembly.
The object must have some weight for it to work, otherwise the training is not done

Thanks for your feedback. This is the first one i've seen not working. This could be down to printer tolerances. To save you wasting your print i have added another version of the cog cover "V3 chassis cog cover with Turn table support.stl" to the downloads. This has a flange that will keep the turn table in place if it's been skipping. This will need to be glued into place

At least this way you don't have to reprint the whole thing



With the last part, it is better.


I've been having a lot of troubles with VSFM and meshlab. Is there a workflow you use?

About a year ago I had VSFM and meshlab working both on a Mac and on Linux using the links from the video link below. I don't remember everything I had to do to get it working but it took a little bit of trial and error (and Google searches) to get it working. Linux was harder to get it working than on the Mac. I hope this helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6eqW6yk50k&feature=em-subs_digest-vrecs

Hello, sorry i use Remake mostly, but i will have a play with meshlab and see if i can find a nice workflow for you

I'm interested too. I wathced a youtube video about it, but I can't even get it to install on el Capitan (Mac Osx). Remake is end of life for the Mac. :(

(I learned this after I printed the whole thing. :) )

Does it work with the Samsung Galaxy s7?

Shouldn't be a problem

Did my best to scan the comments for this question and didn't see it, please forgive me if I missed it. Does the platform color affect the quality of the scanning? Would a black, grey, or white work better than say a blue, red, or green? Clearly film is shot against a green screen for special effects for removal. Perhaps something contrasting to the item being scanned would be best, have you tested various colors?

Hello, i found the colour of the platform does not matter very much, but the colour of the background you're scanning against works best as white. If you can avoid shadows being cast as well, this will lead to a more successful scan
Hope this helps


Just downloaded the files.... excited to try this out, but my Prusa i3 MK2S will not arrive until late June due to the long wait. None the less I'm super excited to make this one of my first projects to try out. Thank you so much for sharing this with us. Will this work with the iphone 7+???

congrats on the printer! This works with my iPhone 6+ so shouldn't be a problem with the 7+ Just use the included headphones

I just bought an MK2S today too....


I print the first part of main chassis (V3 main chassis 1) but the seconde one (V2 main chassis 2) hasn't got the same size....

Help me ;)

Thanks !

try downloading the files again, or reset the scaling.

Can anyone PLEASE redesign the "headphones" part to accept a FLIC button instead!??!

I want to PAY for the mod! Just PM me!

FOr any1 considering the "job" and wondering what a FLIC button is, http://amzn.to/2oESgFb
The reason for FLIC is because I already own them from their KS campaign...


all files are available on the hackster link. feel free to download the cad models from there

Awesome Design! Can the design be amended to allow for a hollow cylinder from the bottom to the top in the turn table, that way one can insert an object through the hole from the bottom of the turn table. This would open the possiblities of items to scan.

Hi Daveyclk

Great design.

Is there a chance you can uploade the main chassis as a single part file?

I discovered that if you drag the chassis files into the same scene in 123d design (drag only one file at a time not all four), it assembles the whole chassis in one piece. you can then export a new stl. If you tick the combine objects box while saving.

I've tried it, but my bed was just a little too small to fit without scaling.

Hi Daveyclk

Truely awesome design.

Would it be possible for you to split the turntable into 4 or 5 pieces, my print bed is 150mm by 150mm, so the outer rims won't fint on it without an insane amount of support material.

Great work and thank you for sharing!
I don't see the v3 single files, only the split parts. Also, your hackster.io page says CAD files are available. I don't see that either.

all files are available on the hackster page

Great project! I would love to be able to mod it work with a stepper motor, is there a CAD file I can work from?

I have the same exact idea, I'm thinking of Arduino with an easy driver and a relay to trigger the headphone jack to focus and then capture an image. Have you made any progress yet?

There's a link to the fusion360 file in the project page near the bottom

Ok th for you quick response

You did a fantastic job on this... But if your trying to make something everyone can use.. it would be nice if you didn't design it for use with $300 software

Truth, but like daveyclk said, there is probably some cheap version of it, like 123D Design to AutoCAD.

There are free open source versions of the software too. Check out the great tutorial video I posted on the things main page

can i fully 3d print this exept the pone

Thank you Tveito for this great Thing.
Can anyone recommend an app for creating 3d objects? Or should I just take the pictures, tranfer to my pc and generate the 3d objects there?
Is there an app, which takes pictures continously (every second?), so that I don't have to press the button for every picture?

hi Dave, I'm trying to make a redux version of this that would be easier for me to print. I am using your table and cog but one thing puzzles me: The table has 110 teeth meaning it would make 55 photos per rotation, but your description says that it makes 50 per full rotation. Am I missing something?

hello I am an art teacher at a middle school. I would love to use this with my students
Can I get a free download or do I have to pay the 30$?

The model is free

You don't pay for the files, the 30$ is an estimation on the price of the total project (basically the price of filament and the earpieces) The files are available under "Thing Files"

Except the software is $300

There are free open source options too. Check out the video I put on the page

Thanks Tveito!

Just starting to print the turntable now on my Taz 6 13 hour print... Go Go GO!!!!!

I tried the apple volume control headphones on a OnePlus 3 phone (Android) but the camera does not react on volume. What am I missing? Is there a specific configuration or a specific photo App to be used? Someone can advise please?

Well, you can't use apple headphones on android... Androids don't like vegetables

Good to be a student its free for me.

Comments deleted.

How is this a 30$ scanner if the software is 300$ a month???

Agree and only apple.... really.....

Check out the FAQ, it's not apple specific

It's $30 a month. There is also a free trial.

On top of that there are some open source photogrammetry packages available

Sorry my bad you are correct its 30$ a month and 300$ a year, with a free 15day trial of the "pro" all windows only.
Will search around for some other software. Thank you for the brilliant design anyway ;)

Gleb Alexandrov has made a brilliant tutorial using free software.

Just watched the tutorial, that looks ace! I'll pop a link on my front page

Thanks for sharing!

No worries! Best of luck

Your link to "https://memento.autodesk.com" should be changed to "https://remake.autodesk.com" as they changed their name and it gives a serious security warning if you go via the old link :)

Thanks for the headsup! I've updated the link

How are the parts oriented on the build plate? Unless I missed the directions somewhere. If I did my bad. Do I print the way it is oriented when I import it to Simplify3D?

You'll need to orientate them for best print (eg fewest supports etc)

Has anyone tried to print at 60%?

I've seen 80% but not as small as 60% can't guarantee that will work

Does anyone out there know of some compatible software that can take advantage of these images that runs on linux? I haven't been able to find anything, and would like a solution before I decide to print this.

VisualSFM and MeshLab

sudo apt-get install meshlab

Huh, I have meshlab and didn't know it could do that.

Misunderstanding sorry. For the reconstruction it might be difficult Make3D?

I'm using the iPhone headphones. Crank isn't touching the volume buttons. Am I missing something?

Hi There

I did find this varies by headphones.

Try using some scrap support structure under the volume control to raise it up slightly

Beautifully designed, and I love the build plate options. Will be trying it out with my LG V20 and 123D catch.

Thanks very much, looking forward to seeing some of your scans

If button triggered I should be able to also use a Bluetooth shutter button for androids. Should work the same.

Is it ok to print this in wood filament? If not what is the ideal filament to use for this print.

Also thanks for a great design.

Hi There,

Thank you and shouldn't be a problem!

Nice design. I am printing it now, but have a problem.

My headphone button will not reach the cog gear.
It fits in tight but there is a small gap between the gear and the button.
If anyone has an idea how to fix it that would be nice.

I was thinking of just putting a dot of hot glue on the vol button and mayeb that would work.

Hi there

I used a scrap piece of support structure to bridge any gaps that might appear

I'm currently thinking of a way to improve this

hi, and sorry if this has been asked before. I am printing the main chassis and noticed that there are 2 for v2 aND 2 FOR V3 which are different sizes and have a different number of dovetails. Am i missing something or can v2 and v3 files work together.I dont really want to complete this awesome print until i am sure thank you.

The original V2 front parts have been replaced, mainly to reduce the printing of supports and reduce printing times. My opinion is that the new front parts take a lot less time to print, but has reduced height placements, so V2 is actually more functional. I was using this design to do printer calibration (don't like to waste time printing those test cubes..) and now my left front piece is V3 and the right front piece is V2 lol. Will post pic of my frankenstein soon so others can see how it looks like.

There is 4 parts in total. 1,2, 3, and 4.
Print all 4. The v3 are the new front models that were change to lower the amount of support needed

Quick question: Is it possible to get an .STL for the chassis that's in a single piece, but incorporates all the other improvements made since it was updated? We have a very large build volume, so we can print in one piece, and I'd like to be able to avoid press fits where I can (less joining means less room for error!)

Thanks for your time making this and for staying involved!

The $30 3D scanner (one piece main chassis)

Why go with such an expensive button? There are cheaper solutions like this little bluetooth selfie button:

Bc I already own Flic from their kickstarter campaign.

FOr any1 considering the "job" and wondering what a FLIC button is, http://amzn.to/2oESgFb

Can anyone PLEASE redesign the "headphones" part to accept a FLIC button instead!??!

I want to PAY for the mod! Just PM me!


This is what i call brilliance! simple.

I think Autodesk is stopping remake. Do you recommend another software?

Here is a company that makes a great product and they aren't total bloodsuckers....you can actually buy a perpetual license for the software.
The product is called Agisoft PhotoScan

Or use an opensource alternative like regard3d

I tried Regard3D this evening using photos taken from my Galaxy S7 Edge and it said that triangulation will fail because my focal length is not known or stored in the data base and to use a different camera. Have you got it to work with a smartphone photo data set?

Hello, luckily it's only the Mac version that's being retired. The PC version is still available

Someone needs to make a motorized remix and a gopro camera mount.

Let me start to work on the motorized version. I can add an arduino. What other functions can be added since the arduino can do much more than just spin....

Comments deleted.

you could add a BLE module to the arduino and pair it with the phone. The arduino would then control the phones camera over BlueTooth ;)

Can u PLEASE redesign the "headphones" part to accept a FLIC button instead!??!

I want to PAY for the mod! Just PM me!


I am totally understand in a motorized version. ....One that took more than 50 pictures per rotation would be a good start. The more photos the better the resolution.... One that could control a digital camera from the remote port would also be great. Those 2 functions would make it close to a professional little machine.

that would be sweet!

I kind of would like to work with you on an app that packages the photos nicely and sends them to your computer or something. I will have to build it to get some ideas going.

Sounds fun! Keep me posted

This design is very cool. I even started to print it. But I figured out that with just the phone stand, and a $12 plastic lazy susan from the grocery store, I could do the almost same thing and just manually hit the volume button on the headphone jack to take pics as I turned the lazy susan with my hand. It's nowhere near as cool, but since each of the four pieces of the chassis would take 16 hours to print on my FlashForge Finder, I've opted to do the slightly less cool way. I use Remake as well and it does a pretty reliable job with a little patience and about 120 pics. I wish I had a faster printer, because then I would be SO printing this out. But 64 hours just for the body is too much for me.

Thanks and no worries! your version sounds cool too. be sure to post something on www.instructables.com so others can build it too

I was never able to get the part to reliably press the volume button. Any tips?

I used scrap support structure underneath the volume control to raise it up a little, This tends to vary from phone to phone

Does anyone know if this will fit the smaller iPhone's like the iPhone 5?

HI There, it shouldn't be a problem


Thank you for the response, I just have one more question. There are alot of files under the files tab, what would I need to download and print to make this scanner?

I've updated the FAQ listing everything you need. Hope it helps!

Comments deleted.

I would love to print this, but before I run through a spool of PLA I would like to understand a few things.

Can I get this to work with my Samsung S7 Edge? I thought I saw a remix for Android so I may be good there.

What Android app do I run on my phone that causes my phone to snap photos automatically as it turns?

Finally, what kind of accuracy am I to expect? Will the results be as good as the Ciclop?

This works perfect with the Samsung S7 Edge and it's headphones. The headphone switch fits perfect under the cog. The cog chassis cover needs to be secured to the chassis (I'm going to use a couple of screws) - and cord hole under the phone cradle needs to be widened.


I must have the wrong headphones for my S7 Edge. The headphones only pause the music, they don't raise and lower the volume. I am probably going to end up using a bluetooth selfie button to snap the shots. Too bad no one has done a remix for that solution yet. Would you by chance have any pictures of scans you have done using this turntable and your S7 Edge?

Update. I just double checked.. I mixed up my earbuds. I'm actually using the headphones that came with my Galaxy S5.
Looking at Google pics, the control strip between the two look about the same dimension-wise. I'll dig out the S7 headphones to verify.

Thanks for sharing your tips!

No! Thank YOU!

Hi Bryson
The whole print should use about 500-750g of filament depending on infil (just FYI)

It should work fine with any phone that can be remotely triggered with the headphone volume. the only thing i can't vouch for is if the volume on the headphones will fit under the crank as this was designed for an iphone one.

The idea is you're using your phone as the camera, you need to upload these images to you PC and use photogrammetry software such as Autodesk Remake to create the 3D geometry.

The scans can be very impressive, basically the more pictures you take the higher quality the mesh will be

Hope this helps

Thanks for your response. So I may be starting to understand this. It sounds like the photos are remotely triggered by me manually and not automatically by some third party software or the OS. This makes sense as I have never had photos start snapping off while using headphones, controlling the volume or moving around in a circle with my phone. It sounds like I could also use a bluetooth trigger to remotely trigger the shots and it would be the same thing. I turn the crank a little and snap a photo and then repeat, is that correct?

I like the idea of using my phone. I know it takes good photos and I am sure results are largely dependent on the photogrammetry software involved.

Let me know how the remote triggering works.


I was looking at another guys photos and it looks like the inline volume control of the headphones could be pressed by the bumps on the handle during rotation. I then assume that the photo app on the phone is set to take photos with the volume control....mystery solved assuming I am correct.

I created a remote shutter release cable for another project (it's just a momentary pushbutton switch that shorts a 240-ohm resistor from mic to ground) and am trying to figure out if there is a way to adapt that before I start printing it. Is there any video of this in operation, especially the photo-triggering part?

Hello there! Do you now if this would print on a 5.9 in x 5.9 in print bed? And is there a tutorial on assembly, or is it strait forward?

That print bed will be a bit small to print at full size. I have seem some success with 80% scaling, so perhaps you could give that a try?

One more thing, could a Samsung Galaxy J7 fit into the holder? Thanks

The holder is a generic phone holder so you shouldn't have any issues

it seems autodesk has removed remake from the google store

Hi there, have a look at the tutorial and hopefully all will become clear

I have. And that's why the comment. It's gone from thy Google play store. I have it on my laptop still, but that's not much use for this

im not sure where yuo are finding these apps. but both ofthose have been removed. if there is another source please let me know.
i have an autodesk account, and have not been able to access either of those apps. i used tohave them.

You're using your phone as a camera. Autodesk Remake is a desktop PC app

Congratulations on making the front page of Thingiverse!

Looking at the "press fit" construction, it looks like glue is required for assembly. Have you seen the OpenClick system for miniatures? It provides an open source method of assembling large structures that can be easily torn down and put back together again.

I'm interested in OpenClick - do you have a link?

Hi, Thanks very much!

It is designed to press fit together (a 0.15mm clearance is provided) but using a spot of glue to make things a bit more permanent is always recommended :) I'll be sure to check out the OpenClick system though! Thanks for the heads up

Should i be able to print the entire thing in clear blue filament?

I don't see any reason why not

Hello, please refer to the FAQ section and project tutorial

What if you don't have the stock headphones

Use an incremental setting

Just wanted to know around how much filament this takes to print. I don't want to use 10 kg of filament and stop not being able to afford any more

i didnt check in the slicer but looking at my spools i used about 500g. i used 25% infill. So it definitely costs less than $30 lol.

I just weighed the scanner, it's 485g (without the phone cradle). Spot on lol.

Can't find the app on the Android store

Hello, please refer to the FAQ section and project tutorial

Okay, so I'm getting nowhere fast. I click on the "Full project tutorial available here" link and it takes me to a hackster.io page but still no tutorial. So I think maybe I have to have an account so I sign in with Facebook. Still no tutorial. What am I missing?

Hello, sorry you're having problems. I checked the link from my iPhone and it worked fine. I'll check on my PC in the morning If that's ok

Comments deleted.

Congratulations for being featured on the front page for a super clever design! Looking forward to using it.

Thanks very much!

Comments deleted.

Congrats on getting featured. Not only is this cool thing functional for helping produce 3D scans, but I think it could be neat for taking video and showcasing small models.

Thanks very much, looking forward to seeing how you use it

Thank you
this is the best practical design I ever seen on thingiverse

Thanks very much for your kind message

wonderful project! do you know if all parts are printable in a delta printers with 180mm diameter an 300mm height?

Hi There, I've just has a check and i'm afraid its a little too big for a 180mm diameter

thanks for reply! And If I Scale to 70/80%? do you know if someone try to reduce it?


some of the makes have had great success at 80% the size. I would avoid going any smaller

Hope this helps


Such a cool design! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks very much!

Now I know the next thing to print!

Cheers! let me know how it goes

This is huge! Doesn't fit on my 120x120x120 print bed. :) :) :) :) :)

:( I wanted to try this but I also have 120x120x120

The print turned out perfectly! Thanks for the great design.
I had some issues getting it to trigger the headphone control, until I put a spacer beneath it. The stopper was too thick.

Instead of inserting the headphone control beneath the hub, could the hub cover be replaced with a holder of the headphone volume control on top of the hub?

Is there a version that will work with an iphone 7+? or will this work with my phone as is. Thank you ahead of time.

Hi There

It should work as is, i use it with an iPhone 6+

You will need to use your headphones with the lightening adapter



What app are you using

I use Autodesk Remake for mine, i'll add this to the FAQ

I checked on the AppStore and found nothing. :(

It is a computer software. Not a phone app. (says in the read me).

Thanks. Keep up the good work

I hate to bother you daveyclk, but I just finished printing V2_Main_Chassis_1.stl this weekend and with the release of V3, I do not see a V2_Main_Chassis_3.stl? Can you reupload that (or is it the same as the V3 one?) Thank you for the awesome work and help in advance!

I just updated the chassis to V3 and removed the V2 ones, if you need the V2 ones to finish your set i'll add them back on. They will be compatible, it might just look a little odd




My apologies, I read your update incorrectly. I was thinking when you said you split the Turntable into 3, you meant the whole chassis, but after reading it again, it makes sense now. Thank you for the reply and sorry for the confusion this may have caused. You can delete (if you can?) the thread if you like.

no worries mate :)

I have made this and it works well. Had problems fitting the headphone volume controller into the slot as it was too thick. OK after I sanded it down. What is the stopper for and where does it go?..

The headphone hole was designed for my iphone 6+ so might vary from phone to phone.
I use the stopper in that hole just to wedge the headphones volume in place, this part is optional. if you don't need ot don't use it



Hi. I hate the supports, because I can never remove them easily. Can you suggest how to print V2_Main_Chassis part 1 to 4 without the supports or with the minimum necessary?


I have just updated the chassis to make supports less and easier to remove
Check it out


Do you need to buy any separate parts if so please can you list them below?

everything is printed, you only need you headphones that came with your phone to trigger the camera

Jan 21, 2017

GrillSgt - in reply to Georgeyoussef_1980

Just seen this post which points to the thingiverse page to download the turntable in four parts.
Thanks GrillSgt

hi, I would very much like to print this but the turntable is too big for my printer {flashforge creator pro} is there any way that I can split the turntable into two?
Thanks, John

I printed mine on the Dreamer. I just use the cut function in the slicer to split them into half. Either you cut x or y axis, take note it's better to cut where it slices on the non-teeth segment. Once printed, just weld or glue them.

I'm working on printing this out and ran into a couple issues. I need to modify the chassis pieces. Does anyone have STP versions of the files? I can't get a good conversion for STL to STP.

hi, I have an iPhone 7 but I couldn't find any 3D scanner software, can anyone suggest me a link for download?

There currently isn't an app you can download. The phone takes the pictures and then you have to load them into other software. There are some great tutorials on the web for creating a 3D image from photos. Some use open source software and some don't.

Hi Dave,
Any strong feelings on setting for printing out your design? do you think 20% fill at normal quality will be adequate? Our elementary school is looking for an affordable way to help one of our community members 3D scan and print Great White shark teeth. Any feedback would be appreciated!!

Thank you,

Hi Greg

20% infil will be fine. i printed mine at 0.2mm layer height, but as it's quite big, 0.3mm will work fine too.

Best of luck!


I printed mine with 15% infil and 0.3mm layer... slow speed 30mm/s and it's perfect!

I just post a Remix to answer the famous question "Does it works with android?"....
It works with my samsung Galaxy S7 and some minor ajustements using a Cordless screwdriver:

Thank you VERY much Dave to share this with us...

The $30 3D scanner - Samsung Galxy S7 minor ajustements
by Goofy34

Cool! What app are you using for your android phone?

Hi, no specific app.
You just have to use the camera application (I'm using CameraMX) and import all the pictures into "Autodesk Remake" (I'm using the free windows version, who allow to create 3D model from max 50 pictures)
hope it help ;)

Lol this is exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you.

Awesome! Thanks very much! i get that question A LOT! :)

Built great without any issues, actually it was my #3 print in a new Anet A8 and i was a little bit scared of aiming for such a huge project (most of the bed covered, lots of PLA involved, etc)...

But everything fitted wondeful and really smoothly!

The only thing i would change (added a remix) is removing the most external wall from case #2 and #3... i mean, it's there only for aesthetical matters and won't give any extra support, also you get to save a ton of PLA and printing time by removing those :D

Made myself an SLT with both files (case #2 and #3) joined togueter without the external part, fitted everything together and works great!


I have a question, our new 3D printer at our school can not print the turn table if we were to scale all parts down to .9 out of 1 would this still work while just being smaller? Not to mention it would definitely speed things up a bit.

very hard to print. Just one part of chassi I spent 12 hours to print and it's broken. I wasted my time for nothing.

Muito dificil de imprimir. Somente para uma parte do chassi eu gastei mais de 12 horas e a impressão está quebrando toda. Desperdicei meu tempo pra nada!

Will it work for android? I don't want to waste material to find out that it wont work :D

Comments deleted.

Has anyone ported it to "Android" compatible phones? And adding a FLIC button push instead of headphones button?

Wouldnt mind "paying" for the conversion ;)


What ios app would i have to use with this. I have the remake softwear but not an app. Can someone please link the app to use with this. Thanks

Hello, if you have remake you don't need another app. the turntable uses your phones camera to capture the images, simply upload them to your PC or Mac and let remake work it's magic


Do you print the 4 circle pieces laying flat? If so should I have enabled supports?

hello, yes you will need supports

Comments deleted.

The comments state it took about 19 hrs to print. Currently one piece of the chassis is taking me 10 hrs at 40mm/s. What speed did you print your PLA?

Hello good evening I have a question this works with Android mobile phones? how?

I also don't understand how to use the headphones to trigger the photos can you please explain it to me or provide the link that does as I can't find it thanks in advance

Hit the volume button on the headphones

Hi I recently finished printing this item and I think it's an awesome design however I'm having a problem with the turntable lifting of the gear and not spinning. Im not sure what I did wrong as I haven't modified anything. I already know how I'm going to fix it by placing a tab on the part that encloses the gearing which will hold the table down so it doesn't come of the gear. I'm just wondering what have I done wrong as I'm not sure do you have e any suggestions?

I am also having this issue. Did you find the reason why it was doing it?

Yeah I modified the gear box cover to go over the turntable. I already new how I was going to resolve the issue before I posted the comment but I would have liked the original design to work for me.

Thanks for your reply, I'll look into something similar

No problem I have the file I could give you. You need to know though you have to glue it down for it to work properly.

That would be great if you could! How do you want to send it? Thanks

I'm not really sure at the moment. I doubt you want advertise your email address on the internet. I was thinking I could possibly upload it to thingiverse but I don't know how to at the moment. I could upload it as a remix of the original design I think I have to give credit to the original designer but I don't know how to do all that right now. I'm working at the moment but give me till the end of the day and I'll try and work out how to upload it and then send you a link I guess.

I cannot for the life of me find out what headphones are being talked about. Did you link or name them somewhere? If so where are they mentioned cause I thought I looked everywhere, including the hackster page linked in the how I designed this section.

They are apple headphones i believe

Aww gotcha thanks. So do the headphones have like a volume button along the wire and something in the scanner table pushes on it to trigger the pictures? Has anyone tried it on an android?

What if I have an IPhone 7? As it doesn't have a headphone jack. Lol

you can use the lightning adapter, or you can wait for the bluetooth verison to come out. either way it will work

When will the bluetooth version be released?

Why did tou choose to take exactly 50 picture? Was there a limitation considering the design? Is it because more pictures doesn't really improve the quality of the scan? I would prefer more pictures by rotation but I want to hear how you decided to take 50.

Nice design by the way.

Hi there

50 images per rotation was a fairly arbitrary value, but seemed round enough! There is nothing stopping you doing mulitple rotations for a higher res scan


Have you guys tried to use 123d Catch App for iOS and Android? This app takes pictures, send them to a cloud server, does the rendering and allows you to download the mesh.


123D catch is being discontinued by autodesk unfortunately. I recommed using Remake as this is better supported and can create much higher res meshes


I have a 200 by 200 hundred build platform and I cannot print the turn table do you have any suggestions

3D Scanner Split Tabletop Part

thanks GrillSgt!

Would you be kind enough upload the main chassis as 1 piece?

I just remix it to join all the 4 parts :


The $30 3D scanner (one piece main chassis)

Hello, thanks a lot for your thing !

Could you put the main chassis in one piece also ?

Thank you

do you need anything besides the printed parts, in the picture the scanner has wires hanging out???

Hello there my good fellow,
I'm in the process of printing your design and noticed the series of horizontal ledges used to adjust height. I was wondering how you print your files entitled 'Main chassis 1' and 'Main chassis 3' without the plastic drooping?

Thank you

I wander this myself. many state printed without supports and i dont know how it is possible

Hi Davey,

Great design you have made here, it takes a lot of skill, hard work and determination to create something like this. I am in the process of printing the scanner and so far, so good. As a small 3D printing business owner, I am very glad that people like you exist in this industry who use their intelligence to create things like this that can be so widely used. Keep up the great work !

Kristian Misevski
w3Du Printing Services

Hi Kristian

I really appreciate your kind comments, thanks very much!

Have a great day


Hi Kristian

I really appreciate your kind comments, thank you so much!

Have a great day


Comments deleted.

Would it be possible to use an iPad mini for this?

the ipad mini might be a little tall, but you could use the mount seperatley from the scanner, say on a table. and raise the turntable up if needed with books or something

Comments deleted.

Is it only for iPhone?

as long as your smartphone comes with headphones with a volume control on it is should be OK (it uses the volume control as the trigger)

Witch app do you use?

Witch app do you use?

i use Autodesk Remake, it's a PC or MAC app, you use your camera as a phone only

Hope that helps


I don't know if it is an android exclusive app but there is an autodesk app called 123D catch that does the same thing but you can use your phone for the entire process.

123D catch can not be download in France :( Maybe later

Ah, I didn't realise it was only for iphones. Since I use another smartphone, I guess I won't be able to make this work... However, nice work dude!!

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Really cool project, I'll start making one my own. I just can't find the instructions on hackster about how to install the wire to the headphone jack. Perhaps I am overlooking it...

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Printed this and am loving it. I will upload my "Made" pictures shortly. I modified the iPhone holder to hold a 6S plus in the case is the only changes I made! Can I ask a design question? how in the world did you do the "puzzle" style snap fitting pieces for the 4 base pieces? That worked amazing for assembling the unit and I would love to know how you did it. when I split objects in netfabb I get a straight line which 80% of the time works fine.....

Can you post the file for the modified iPhone holder. I have a 7 Plus and it will be too big for the standard one. Thanks

FWIW, I just printed the phone mount, and it works fine with my iPhone 7Plus in a thin case.

FWIW, I just printed the phone mount, and it works fine with my iPhone 7Plus in a thin case.

that's great, thanks for sharing

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Really cool stuff.
Can you also make the ground plate into 2 or 4 pieces?

Really cool stuff.
Can you also make the ground plate into 2 or 4 pieces?

hi imy scanner is a sence. it works verry good wiht this. thank you for the time you spent to make it.

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Can you post the one piece chasis for those of us with larger 3d printers?

What app do you use so i can scan and print in STL format? for Iphone

What app do you use so i can scan and print in STL format? for Iphone

I use the phone to take pictures and use Autodesk Remake on my PC to stitch them together to create the 3D geometry. This is known as photogrammetry and is very cool! Created by people with a far bigger brain than mine

Thank you very much fr answering my question that is really cool and i ant wait to give it a try

No worries!

Best of luck

What app do you use so i can scan and print in STL format? for Iphone

Hi, very cool design! I want to print it with my m3d printer, but it looks that some of the part are too large for my printer bed. Also it seems that the part does not have the same size ratio so if I want to get them smaller it would not be the same amount of reduction. For exemple some parts are at the scale of one while other are at ,75, etc. Do you have any tips to help me?

Hi, very cool design! I want to print it with my m3d printer, but it looks that some of the part are too large for my printer bed. Also it seems that the part does not have the same size ratio so if I want to get them smaller it would not be the same amount of reduction. For exemple some parts are at the scale of one while other are at ,75, etc. Do you have any tips to help me?

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also one other thing, can i resize it a tiny bit smaller so it doesn't take as much filament?

I've not personally tried it, but i have seen a few made scaled down around 90% just make sure all parts are uniformly scaled. Going any smaller might make the teeth a little weak, and also the phone shelves too
Good luck!

I've not personally tried it, but i have seen a few made scaled down around 90% just make sure all parts are uniformly scaled. Going any smaller might make the teeth a little weak, and also the phone shelves too
Good luck!

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does the scanner work with the free remake version

Hello, Yes it does


for me the dovetails printed larger then the keys they should line up with. I am going to just cut them off and glue/weld the arts together, but others may have this same issue. also by default the top of the turn table is to large to print on my makerbot replicator+. I unfortunately did not check this before printing the other parts, so ended up splitting this down the center, and will end up gluing/welding together as well... they are printing now so will let you know how they work out, if they do I will post my split top on a remix so someone else could use them if needed.

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I did pla as well so may work better with abs dunno.

I did pla as well so may work better with abs dunno.

I did pla as well so may work better with abs dunno.

I have the same issue. Printed with PLA. Should I of used ABS?

I have the same issue. Printed with PLA. Should I of used ABS?

I am having an issue where the support layers for the pieces with the phone holder are making the layers too wide to put the phone holder in, and I can't seem to think of a way to print it where it would not need support material. Do you have any recommendations for a program with easier to remove supports, or a recommended support setting for 3D Builder? I'm relatively new to 3D printing so forgive my inexperience.

Man 3d printing people are such a holes. This design is awesome nice job!

is autodesk remake in fusion 360 because autodesk remake is not on the App Store?

I think they recently change the name to REMAKE, or i suppose they change it, it use to call "123 Catch"
but you can still find the APP by that name, ones you installed that app and capture some designs with the 3D scanner
Download a free Program call Meshmixer to open the files that you capture from there, well is another process that you need to do in order fix it or make it better http://www.meshmixer.com

Hi there

Remake is a PC or Mac app, not a mobile app. You use the camera on the phone to capture the images and then transfer them to you PC

If you wanted to use only your phone, your can use 123D catch (another autodesk photogrammertry app) it's not as full featured and the mesh created will not be as complex, but it's a good alternative



Nice design! May I ask where should I put the part "stopper"? Thx.

Hello and thank you!

It's used inside the turn table to secure the volume control in place



Sorry that I still can't understand.
Would you please take a picture to show me?
Thank you for replying.

All the detais are in the tutorial link in the description

here's the link incase you can't find it https://www.hackster.io/daveclarke/3d-scanner-turntable-for-cell-phones-updated-64fdb8

Hey! This looks awesome and super useful, so I'm going to try and make it. Just a few quick questions, though.
First, do you have any recommendations for the shell thickness/layer height/infill, or is it just whatever works?
Second, I noticed that the new files for the base are on their side, which seems like it would make it need a lot more support. Was that orientation intended, or would it be better to print them right side up?
Finally, in your opinion would PLA work, or does that even matter?

Hello and thanks very much!

I'll try to answer your questions here

  1. I used 200micron layer height, two perimeters and 20% infil on mine. You will need supports only for the base

  2. You will need to re orientate them so they're flat to the build plate

  3. I used PLA for mine and it worked great!

Hope this helps and good luck!


When you say base, I assume you mean turntable?


No i mean the base, the turntable prints support free



Very cool design Dave!
I have a question for you, is this design.it Is designed for any particular version of the iPhone for example the 4s or a newer version of the iPhone. Due to slight differences in the overall dimensions of the phones. If so is it dependent on the angle of the phone in relation to the turn table. If you have already answered this thank you in advance.


Hi and thanks!

You should be OK with an iPhone 4, the phone mount can be lowered or raised as appropriate so it should work fine

I have tried it with an iPhone 5 (I know it's a little taller) but that worked ok



Would you be willing to post the source files for this project?

Hello, you should be able to find the files on the hackster.io link

Have fun


I am so fricking pissed off right now I have been trying to print this stupid thing for the past week and a half and I am not having any luck the two pieces that have the cell phone holder in it does not print out right when you go to take off the supports it breaks all apart I have printed at least 6 of them out and I still have the same results each time does not matter which way you put it, either standing on end or lying flat it does not matter it still comes out the same way. so what I think is it should be taken off thingiverse till it is fixed right or modified to where it won't take 6 times to print them so it comes out right. I have gone through a big roll of filament trying to print this and the filament is not cheap so I just blew money just to print this thing out so I give up I will find me a different one that is not so f _ _ed up

lol What a noob, this model print fine! Learn how to print before blaming on the model

Mine printed just fine your a rude fuck up

Design your own if you don't like it. This is hours and hours of skilled work being graciously donated to our community, so the least you can do is show a little respect. You are clearly too old for this.

more infill and thicker outer shell. that should do it.

Frankly I don't appreciate being treated so rudely.

This is not the way to get any support out of me

I suggest you gain some experience in 3D printing before pointing the finger

Feel free to respond, but this will be my last message.

That guy was a rude fuck up and I told him so

wawinter, if you think going around and blaming people for a problem that only YOU’VE had, then I suggest you change your ideals, or replace your Printer that obviously has some problems. If you’d actually like me to give you some advice, then you might want to try a new kind of infill, different slicer, or change up some settings.

Never in all my time on thingiverse have I ever seen a comment like this... If you don’t have any luck with this “F****d up” scanner, then I suggest you design your own, because as far as i’m concerned, there aren’t many other scanners like this on thingiverse.

I genuinely hope you have a good day.

Hey I just got done splitting the table top into sections with dove tails. I've check the fitment over and over again. I'd upload now but want to print to make sure first. I'll probably have it finish Monday.

Hey Dave, thank you for the hard work, along with taking suggestions. I'm printing the chassis now and pretty amped to finally get around to printing this.

Off topic to a degree, but was wondering what's your method for splitting and editing? I can split with tinkercad, but the dove tails is awesome. Maybe you can in tinkercad but even if it's a different software I'm all ears.

I'm just now venturing off into editing, so any advice is welcome.

Thanks again for all the help


Thanks for you positive comments!

I use fusion360 for all my modelling and modification. It's amazing and free for hobbyists!


Check it out :)

Ok I got it downloaded. Maybe it's because it's new software to me but I don't know where to even begin. I mainly want the to know how to split a large model up like you did, with the dove tails. I'll keep trying to figure out, as I go in sure I'll figure more out. Hoping you get on and it's an easy description

Fusion360 is a really powerful program - I use it as well, and am very impressed! Additionally, there are some really good tutorials on YouTube. I found this tutorial the other day about designing joints in Fusion360 - and I think they even talked about a dovetail!


Daveyclk, this is an AWESOME design. Looking forward to printing it! :-)

So glad to see the four piece offering. Each piece is still slightly too big for my FlashForge Finder print bed, but I have a friend with a larger print base who can print it out for me now that it's in the four pieces.

You're welcome mate, still some improvements to make. These will evolve over time

I have been trying to print this out for the past two days and its not coming out the way its suppose to the the steps for the cell phone do not come out right and I have it printing the no. 4 piece and I have it on its side and it is still not printing right I have gone out and bought a new spool of filament and it is going through it like candy it keeps messing up on me this is the fourth time I have tried to print it without any luck that filament is expensive and I have already gone through almost half of it and still no luck I tried laying the piece down and printing and still no luck I have even tried printing it on its side and still no luck I think you need to go back and work on it some more before you post it.

Yeah the model is fine, before acccusations can you please let me know your print settings?


For those of you who can't print the turn table because its too big, go on my designs, I've just posted an edited version of this turn table to fit the bed. Also please read the directions for putting it together, and ask me all the questions you want, thank you!

What directions there are no directions that I can see.

The directions are in the description of my thing files for the turntable.

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Hi bro, my print base are 200x200.. can i resize everything say 80%?

HI Mate

I've personally not tried it, but there is no reason it won't work.

I would try only scaling the x and y axis, and leave the z as is. This means your headphone switch should still fit

Let me know how you get on! it'd be great to be able to recommend this as a solution


If you resize the x and y Axis of the Main Chassis wouldn't the spot for the Cog be oval rather than circular?

I'm looking at this same issue. I wonder if I can split the turntable into four pieces and glue them together after the fact? This is an awesome design btw. Nice work!

Do you need to print with supports?

I have tried using supports and it will print okay but when its done you can't get the supports off of it without breaking it so I am at a loss here too on how to print this so it comes out right

HI there

You will only need supports for the main base. everything else is support free


that is funny I have tried it with and without supports and neither of them work so tell me what to do. I like the looks of it I have printed the #2 and #3 parts which came out great but I am problem with the #1 and #4 part I can not get them to print right. I have thrown away almost 5 different ones that I printed, now I'm printing # 6 and it still not coming out right. please help me with this. These are the only two parts that are giving me problems

Very cool design - a good bit of lateral thinking!
Can you recommend any software for manipulating the point-cloud generated? This has been the biggest failing in the output of the various scanners I've tried. Fine if you want to print something as scanned. Not so fine if you need to manipulate / modify it.

Using Autodesk Fusion360 is brilliant for the manipulation of the mesh created. You can also use meshmixer. Glad you like the design!



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Sorry if been asked, but can you do two rotations to get both sides of an item? I have an urban armor phone case that has a real door that holds cards in it. The door hinge broke so I was thinking I'd make another. It has details on both sides. So if I scan it face down, then face up the software can combine?

HI There. Doing 2 rotations will be no problem. the more images you take the better the mesh will be. You can use Fusion360 or meshmixer to combine you scans



Hm i have all parts printed but the Turntable was too big for my printer :( Cut it in 4 Pieces would not work i think :(
Did you have an idea how to print this in pieces?

I have edited the turntable, email me and i will email you the parts, however parts are not perfectly cute, but you can just plastic weld the 4 little tiny voids, my email is mattmorel123@gmail.com

Hi, i will take a look at how i can make the turntable easier to print on smaller printers



I've edited it for others who cant print it, how can i tag your thing with it so i can categorize my edit as a remix so more people may see it?

Hey Dave now i am done with this thing but it takes no Photos. The Cog was to small and doesnt hit my earphone to take photos :(
Damn i love this thing but now i need to modify something that it hit the button

HI There, i used to spare support structure slices under the headphone buttons. it only needs to be raised a fraction. i found this varies by model. i have an iphone 6plus and my mrs has an iphone 6s. and they both need a different number of support slices to get them to work just right.

i feel a V2.1 coming on!

Thank you very much. My printer was 200x200x140mm but It doesn't work. It's really 199,2x199,2mm :D

I've printed all the parts for this but can't figure out how the crank should be driving the turntable. I assume there should be a cog wheel or pinion of some kind? Does anyone have any details on what that should be? Thanks.

Hi There, sorry i forgot to upload the cog file. it's there now and should make sense


Great - thank you!

Can SAMSUNG Galaxy S6 works on this scanner as well?

Hi There, should work fine


Hi Everyone

I Have updated the design to V2.0beta

The chassis is now in 4 separate parts that press fit together and the phone cradle is height adjustable

Hopefully this will make some of you a little happier!

Thank for your support and downloading!



Hi Dave,
Great project.
I would like to adapt the volume button idea and use a bluetooth selfie button instead.
Can you release your design in an editable format?


hi dave,
i have a question.
is scanner onli for iphone??
thanks a lot for all.

Hello Franceco

The scanner should work for most Cell Phones that come with headphones.

The gap where the headphone volume control sits has been designed to work with an iPhone 6+, so i can't guarantee it will fit perfectly

Worst case the phones camera can be triggered manually.

I'm currently working on a more universal V2.0. when it is complete i'll post it here. Hopefully this will address the few gripes i've had regarding this design



Hi Dave,
first, yes I made a complete print with all pieces. Nice idea, nice design. I had to split the main chassis into four pieces, cause my printer isn't able to print larger pieces than 220 mm.

But, sorry I have to say for me the construction is not functional. Several weaknesses:

  1. I got huge problems to print the turn table. With a layer height of .2 or .3 mm no cogs were printed. With .1 mm I got acceptable results, but print time was unacceptable. So I constructed a seperate sprocket and the turn table with a groove to glue in the sprocket later.

  2. The height of the slot for the iPhone volume controller (iPhone SE) is 4 mm, but the height of the volume controller is 4.15 mm and the key travel is 0.15 mm. This means a permanent keystroke if the volume controller is sloted in. The older volume controller (iPhone 4) also doesn't fit: height 3.4 mm, key travel 0.1 mm.

  3. If I add all tolerances (especially the square shaft: 10 mm and the square hole in the cog: 11 mm), then I never will trigger the volume controller with the cog.So I have to press down the cog wheel manually to get a trigger, or not.

This is the main weakness in my opinion. All the tolerances are to high to get a usefull key travel of .15 mm.

May be it could be a possible solution to put in the volume controller from the outside and adjust it with a compensating mechanism to get always the same distance to the trigger curves of the cog wheel. Or put the trigger cams to the turn table and the volume controller on a flexible part, which presses the controller against a running surface. If the cames are passing the pressure gets high enough to trigger.


Hi Tom

Thanks for your report

It's a shame it's not working fully on your printer, I was able to print all parts fine on mine, especially the cog parts. What slicer did you use?

Regarding the general design, I'm currently working on a V2, and will update this design with the latest files

I do have a question regarding the functionality, if I was to add electronics to automate things, would that be of interest?
I'm tied between keeping things simple and accessible with overcomplicating things

Thanks for taking the time to give some feedback



Hi Dave,

I'm using Simplify3D. The slicer shown me everything fine, maybe retraction was a little to high. I used the parameters I figured with Test Your Printer! V3 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023. But reconstructing the turn table, split the the main piece into four pieces was fun for me. So, don't worry.

I would love to get some electronics, because it was my studies. But now I'm working as an IT architect.


Test your 3D printer! v3
by ctrlV

Hello Heliart and Dave,

First, Dave thank you for the design and idea - great one!

Heliart can you share with us the 4 files of the main chassis split?

Thank you,

Hi Samer,

Dave has done it and for sure better then me.

Thx Dave.


Hi Guys

V2.0 is now live, check it out if you haven't already



Hi Tom

Ok cool, I used simplify 3D too, so not sure why you were having trouble

I'm considering an automated version that uses a stepper motor and Bluetooth to trigger the pictures. It won't be very hard to do, but it will of course put the cost up a little

I'll keep you posted!



Is there something wrong with the stl files? I have a witbox 2, the print volume is huge and I can't print this because it is too big.

NO, it is a huge print. You're gonna need at LEAST 230 x 255mm of print volume to print. He didn't mention that.


Yes it is a large print, how selfish of me to design something that fits on my Type A Machines Series 1.

A remix has already been done splitting the base into smaller pieces, there is no reason why it couldn't be done for the others.

A version 2 is currently under development as i appreciate that not everyone has one as big as mine, i don't have a time frame yet on the V2, but it should be pretty cool



Thank you for designing a smaller one, I hope it will be finished soon.

I just saw your update. It's ok you're not selfish; it worked perfectly on my Robo R1! XD

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could split into 3 pieces the main chassis for can print in 200x200 usual printer? thanks!!

this need a 300x200 surface hehe, awaiting for more op.


Excellent project, but i have a Nexus 5X so i wonder if you can upload your source files ?
Thank you

It should work with a nexus 5 as long as you have the head phones that came with it. I used mine with an iPhone 6 Plus

This is a nice design and I see no reason why this can't also work on an android phone with trigger fitted headphones.

However, one modification I would love to see is the following:

Make the phone mount adjustable so you can change the angle, thus being able to shoot the object from multiple perspectives. The software works much better if you have one full rotation from 45 degrees top down, one from straight on and one from 45 degrees bottom up.

You can then have a slot on the far side of the base which allows you to slide a piece of A4 paper in which becomes a flat background to shoot against.

To take this to the next level still, what would be fantastic is to re-design the gearing so you start it going, after one full rotation the phone stand is moved down one step, then again after the second full rotation so you can get all three perspectives just by turning the wheel.

Thanks for your feedback! This first version was designed to be as simple as possible. the second version i'm working on is going to have far more bells and whistles :) it's a work in progress, but watch this space

Great to hear! Thanks for the reply, always nice when makers keep up on the community.
Well I've popped this on my watch list, keen to see how it progresses. Good luck!

Great design! Have you thought about automating the rotation by replacing the handle/crank with a simple DC motor or stepper motor?

Hi Fred

Thanks very much!

I did think of adding a stepper motor, but wanted to keep it nice and simple.

No reason it won't be added in the future!


I realize this is for an iphone but do you think it could be adapted to use with an android phone also is the design adapted in some way to the location of the Iphone's camera. I'm thinking I will likely need to redesign some of these parts to fit my needs so any tips and tricks would be helpful. Am I right in thinking the camera trigger is completely mechanized? Any and all help is appreciated thanks.

This is 100% what I've been looking for!! can't wait to start printing this.

I have an iPhone, so what software would be best to use?



I just used the native camera app with the focus fixed.

It works great!

There are some limitations with any 3d scanning, but particularly photogrammetry, there are some great tips and tricks on Autodesks Youtube channel, but the main rule to follow is, if the object is shiny, you'll need to make it matte.

Check out Autodesk Remake for more info

This design is simply ingenious. I knew that people have 3d printed scanners before, but I never knew it was possible to make a 3d scanner without ir and ultrasonic sensors, and instead, by stitching together photos. I'm currently printing the parts now. I can't wait!

Hey Matthew, Thanks very much! it's a really useful tool.. have a look on youtube for the best practices for photogrammetry, it can be a little tricky to get right at first, but once you nail it it's dead easy!

my advice is not to glue anything, i found it very useful to be able to move the phone mount depending on the size of the object you're scanning.

Have fun!

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