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Boitier ventilé RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan

by CherHubert Sep 17, 2016
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Very nice design. Very good distribution.

Great Job, i like it

mon adresse mail tomtom.510@hotmail.fr

bonjour ,
serait il possible d'avoir les fichier step ou xt ou bien igs svp .

genial diseño ,20 horas de impresion y todo calza perfecto , hay que ser muy fino con el orden de los cables pero queda genial, muchas gracias!!!.
great design,about 20 hours of work and all is perfect , is not enough space but at the final all is awsome,thanks a lot!

Good design, but too small for a lot of cables and a pain in the ass the plug them in. Also it's get to hot in there for TMC2100 drivers (step jumps) :/

Hi Phonon,

It is true that it is not easy to wire a RAMPS by sliding all the cables through the hole in the back of the box ... Take a look at the new version that facilitates this operation : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901904
For the temperature hang, it is true that the TMC2100 emit a lot of heat. A 40mm fan is not enough? what problem do you encounter exactly ? Your return interests me to evolve my design.

Boitier ventilé v3 RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan v3

The place for the fan at the side of the board causes for me an unpleasent whine with a high pitch. A 40 mm fan is not enough. Completely without fan and open build they reach around 60°C. With fan on top of them around 28°C. No measurement with fan at side and closed case.

You see the same print in the image with closed case and fan (left) und open case and fan on top (right). There are a lot of small pauses which causes droplets and a generell uneven surface. The bottom is okay, but after a while it seems to get to hot in the case and causes the errors.

P.S.: I believe I set the V_ref for the TMC2100 to 1.2V (but need to measure again to be sure). With enough cooling the result is very good.

Absolutely the best design on here.

I have a Rambo Board which is obviously larger than the RAMPS board, is there a possibility to produce a design for that?

Well done.

Hi, thank's for the compliment, i realy apreciate :)
The RAMBO board is much larger than Arduino MEGA + RAMPS and the USB port is not at the same places (and i think it's not the same format)... So it needs a complete redesign and, sorry but i don't have so much time to do that :(

Quelle est la marge en hauteur sur ce boitier ? J'utilise en effet des Protectors (http://www.watterott.com/de/SilentStepStick-Protector) qui augmentent d'environ 2cm à vue d'oeil la haute de la carte RAMPS, et j'aimerais savoir si cela va rentrer

What's the height margin for this case ? I use some stepper drivers protectors (http://www.watterott.com/de/SilentStepStick-Protector) which adds around +2cm to the total height of the RAMPS card, and I was wondering if it would fit in.

Bonjour WishmastR,

2cm de plus pour les drivers ça ne passe pas. je viens de monter un boîtier avec des cartes à vide, sans câblage, et je mesure entre 11 et 12mm de distance entre les radiateurs des drivers et le dos du LCD.

Ok merci beaucoup

bonjour très joli travaille. j'aimerais savoir sur quel logiciel vous avez fait ce boitier? car j'ai une petit carte pour un capteur capacitif et il est trop petit en hauteur. cerait il possible d'avoir le fichier originel merci d'avance

I love this design. I have downloaded it to play with and modify to use with Arduino Due + RADDS - my current box is nice, but this is much nicer. You are better than me at the design!

Hi Dave,
Interesting, could you post a picture of your remix ?

Great job! I think this will be the first work on my first printer! Thank you!

Thank you, does not hesitate to make feedback and post a picture of your achievement :)

hello I liked your casing could you pass the file in .STEP or in .IGS to make some changes please?

Hi, I only share stl files for now. If you want me to make changes on my design, please send me a message with your request and i would make you an offer.

hello great work can help me with the power supply to know which to buy is for my anet a8 and I do not know which plug to buy of how many amps

Hi, is your project progressing?

I don't have an anet a8, but with a simple google request i found : https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540281.html.
In my case, without heated bed, i use an external 12v 5A power supply.
There is a link in the descrition to show you witch power plug to use.

@ Creator

can you please post links to the fans and female power plug?

Ok, i've set the links in the description

Excellent work!
But need for some expanding for my board, so could you plz share your solidworks file? Thanks

Hi, I only share the STL


Is there a version that can fit the LCD2004?

Thank you.

Only for the LCD12864 for now, but you can make a remix:)

Bien fait! J'aime ça.... Je vais tout de suit l'imprimer pour ma future HyperCube Evolution.

Merci, n'hésite pas a me faire un retour sur ton expérience et à poster une photo de ton boitier.

Bien sur... Je l'ai déja modifié (ça va sans dir...), j'ai ajouté un trou pour le contraste et doublé le grand trou pour les cable au dérrière.
La partie plus terrible sera surement emprimer le boitier, infill à 100% demande 20 heures! (infill 60% seulement 19...8-)) )

I like the design, my only complain is about the reset button, maybe you can add another revision with an added button, the reset button is sometime useful to use without a pin :)

The 25mm fans are needed? I have 30mm but not 25mm, just one 40mm is fine I guess?

The 25mm fans are not needed if you use a 40mm fan. I my case, i drive a delta printer without heated bed, then i don't use any fan.

About the reset button, I'll think about it.

I printed the base and side cover, here some of my suggestion for another version, make bigger holes for wires. its impossible to enter X, Y, X + E in the big holes, I would like to see at least 2 or 3 holes so it's easier to add/remove wires.

Also the 40mm fan, mine is 11mm tickness not 10, so I kinda forced to enter it, now it is stuck impossible to remove lol. So add around 1mm on the fan tickness.

I printed without support, maybe some of the front holes could be changed for an easier print without support.

Anyway nice design.

Hello again. The design is very very beautiful. I am trying to make one, but I would want to know what holes do you use for motors and endstop wires. Thank you.

Thank you :)
All wires pass through the same hole located at the back of the case.
When you look at the rear of the case, from the right to the left, you have the hole for the power connector, then the fan grille, and finally the hole through which the cables come out. You also have on its left two slots to pass a plastic collar to attach the cables inside the case.

Thank you VERY much. I will try one and post it as "made" soon.

Very nice design!
I want to make one for my printer, but I have a different LCD panel. The knob is 5 mm to the left, the SD card is on a different position and the pcb is 1 mm higher. Can you upload the CAD/STEP files, zo I can modify them for my printer?
thank you.

Bonjour, merci de votre réponse rapide je vais étudier la question de mon coté et vous tiendrez informé si je trouve une solution.

Bonjour, y aurait il la possibilite tout en gardant le meme ecran de placer un raspberry pi3 a la place de la carte arduino ?

Bonjour, ça se joue à pas grand chose... La carte du raspberry pi fait 56mm de large, contre 53,3 pour l'arduino. Il manque donc environ 3mm de largeur à la gorge dans laquelle se glisse la carte pour pouvoir y placer le raspberry. Sinon j'ai fait une simulation, il n'y a pas de souci en longueur ou en hauteur. Ceci dit, il reste encore le problème d'accès aux ports du raspberry, mon boitier n'est pas conçu avec des ouvertures adéquates.

Thank you anyway. Maybe I can make a remix and upload it :o)
Best regards

Congratulatios for the design!!
Don't you have any variant for Reprap discount controller LCD (20x4)?

Hi, sorry but i have no variant for a 20x4 screen that is much wider

Excellent french Design!! I love it, but. . . .why all makers always miss to include an on/off switch. . .

Thanks for the compliment :)
I have not set a switch to limit operations during assembly. As it is possible to plug and unplug the power supply, It's about the same thing.

Really like the design. I'm printing two right now for my printers that use a RAMPS.

I also have an Anet A8 that I'll be reframing to a 3030 aluminum frame and I would like this same design for the LCD enclosure.
So the Anet mainboard will not be placed inside this enclosure, just the LCD with the rotary encoder and SD.

Do you think you can modify/remix a version that only has space for the LCD?
Like: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:301230 with a piece of flat mounting surface on the bottom.

That way everyone can design their own brackets to mount that flat surface to their printer.

Boitier ventilé RAMPS Arduino LCD12864 / LCD12864 Arduino RAMPS case with fan

I have seen your two prints. The colors you have chosen give a very great result !
I'm not sure I have time to customise my case quickly, but I'll think about it

Снимаю шляпу. Это шедевр.
Hats off to you. It's a masterpiece.

thank you very much :)

Superbe boulot ! Bravo ! j'adore

Super design bien réfléchi ! Du très bon travail. Je met en collection pour une réalisation ultérieure.

Merci, n'oublie pas de poster des photos lorsque tu auras réalisé ton boîtier.


I like your design.. so sleek .. but i have one concern ,, what about heatbed wires, 40 amp psu and stepper wires ?

is there place for a idc connector on the back and a 4 pin psu connector ?

Hi Jason,

In my case, i don't use heatbed at the moment. So I power my case with an external 12v 5A power supply.
In my tutorial, i show how to assembly the case, so i don't have wire the all 3D printer.

For information, I think that the better way to power the heatbed is to use a relay and not power it directly from the RAMPS (like this http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/tag/heat-bed/).

idc connector : I thought about it, but the biggest ribbon cables (2.54 mm pitch) are only 28AWG when the motors need 22AWG. 22AWG cables can't be used with IDC connector (to big).

Hey. J'adore cette boitier. But i have to control all my printers components... morors, endstops, extruder...
How did you do this?

Hi WinChild, thanks for your encouragements. You have to wire all your components (http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Wiring) and pull the cables through the hole at the back of the case. That's what I did.

Note that the 12v power supply is made with an external power supply that plugs into the 2.1 x 5.5 female connector also positioned at the back of the case.

If you print the box, thank's to post a photo of your realization.

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