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HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC

by Tech2C Sep 4, 2016
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hi Can you help in the configuration file of MKS GEN L V1.0?

You might have a look on YouTube and see if this helps.


What program did you use to design the parts.

I want to build this with a print plate 235x235mm and the mounting holes are at 203x203mm (Ender-3 heated bed). I also want a Z of 200mm. What would I need to change to accomplish this?

Hey, sorry not sure if i missed it but is there a bom or dwgs to follow for assembly? seems pretty straight forward but dont wanna mess it up and would like to read before printing and ordering PARTS :) thanks this is awesome!

Short question :
I also built an Ultimaker Clon (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3017114 ) but with this one, what's your experience with the long belts? Will it all be so accurate in the end? I like the double bars on top of each other, it looks very load-bearing.

Ultimaker 2 Clon Made by Hassani (All my Innovations)

Hi Tech2C,

Wondering how the IGUS bushing on carrbon fibre is faring on the long run. Why not also use polymer bushing on the Y axis? With all of the rest of the mass reduction effort these are likely the significant reduction left to do. This also bring symetry between the Y and X axis.
Reading on polymer bushings, they all all designed to be pressed fit to tight tolerance, and correct fit into a printed cylinder is probably a question of luck. I am wondering if anyone thought of designing a 3D printed compression fitting allowing an adjusted compression to the desired fit? See enclosed sketch. The threads may need to be cut or cleaned with a standard tap and die.

Hello, the IGUS bushings on the carbon tubes are holding up well, still working. We shouldn't use polymer bushings on the Y axis (or Z) as the belt forces run perpendicular to the Y rails (XY_Joiner - 90 degree), and will result in binding and/or sticking. It will still move, but expect to print slanted ovals rather than perfect circles.

We can use polymer bushings on the X rails as the belts run parallel with the rails - no binding or sticking.

Hi Tech2C,

My HyperCube is printing for a while now, and did a 12mm steel upgrade for the Z (best upgrade so far), but in your videos you're able to move the X carriage easily by hand when motors are turned off, mine is quite heavy to move, need quite some force to move manually to X or Y. Also when making circles I have the feeling it has issues making perfect circular motions. Prints are from great quality however, but this is a thing that keeps sticking in my head.

Hello, this will occur if the X and/or Y axis carriages bind/stick. To check it, remove the belts from your printer and move the entire X gantry along the Y axis by hand. As the Y axis slides on LM8LUU bearings it should move virtually friction-less.
Do the same test with the X carriage. With the X carriage sliding along the X gantry, this is using linear slides and is usually the cause of binding. I use carbon tubes and I needed to sand mine down to remove friction.

And yes the Z axis upgrade was well worth the effort :)


Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply. I will first see if the belts don't bind in the printed pieces holding the belt pulleys. If that's not the case, I will remove the belts tonight, and see if it moves frictionless without it. (I'm using steel rods for the X gantry, so must be fine), and try to see if all the pulleys are moving freely.

Your video's on YouTube are great, have seen them all so far, thanks for your effort in making the video's and replying to my question.

Comments deleted.

ello to everyone here. i got a quick question... so the thing details say i need 340mm of 2020 extrusion but in other things ive seen the number 350mm so i dont know if the dimentions i need are 340 or 350 and also why does that 10mm need to be gone

I am sorry, i don't understand your question.

In the thing details it specifies 340 mm for X, 303 mm for Y and 350 mm for Z. Which ones are you asking about?

Hi to all. And first tks to Tech2C for all the work this obviously took to bring about.
Just collecting the parts but wonder about the lack of fan on the A4988 drivers.
particularly if you do the upgrade to TMC boards.
Most Chinese printers I have used have cooling there. And they don't do it unless essential.
Any help appreciated.

no need - i have two cubes with tmc2208 and tmc2130 and both works fine without a fan. It depends on many things but in this design how well it is build and quality of linear assembly (bearings, smooth rods). I have directdrive extruder so my x carriage is quite a lot heavier but both drivers are relatively cool - tmc2130 on XY are set to 500mA (which keeps them cool) without problems with moved layers

I just wanted to share my experience with 12mm carbon tubes and Igus bushings. I've got a tronxy x5s 500. I wanted to try to lower the weight of the X axis and so I ordered 12mm carbon rod (11.93~11.95mm actual OD) and 12mm Igus bushings (12.22~12.25mm measured ID). I know many of you have asked questions like "Will the 12mm carbon tubes and bushing work just as well as the 10mm?" and my experience is that the bushings (at least the ones I ordered - AFM 1218-15) feel WAY TOO LOOSE since there is roughly a .3mm difference between the inside of the bushing and the outside of the rod.

I will say this, though. The OD of the bushing is a nominal 18mm but measures at 18.07~18.08mm. I do wonder what would happen if the bushings were pressed into an aluminum sleeve. It is possible that the ID of the bushing might reduce slightly.

I also wonder what would happen if I cut a slot in the bushing and then designed an adjustable holder, perhaps with a set screw which could reduce the size of the opening. It might work.

So for now, I am willing to say, don't expect 12mm Igus bushings and 12mm carbon tubes to be an off the shelf solution as a "no play" linear rail system. Think of it more as an opportunity for continued engineering.

Comments deleted.

For the love of all things vulcan this website is so darn slow and clunky, anyway have been trying to reply to a comment and it just wont let me so i am posting this one.
I solved the problem it was a bad stepper driver, swapped it out and all works fine now.
Many thanks all and to the devs of this site 'SORT IT OUT'

Just finished my hypercube many thanks tech2c, but i have a problem when moving either the x or y axis. They move diagonally instead of in a straight direction?.
Using marlin 1.1.9, i have checked that the motors are connected up right and they seem to be, i have a dual z setup and that works fine.
I am using nema23 steppers hooked up to tmc2208 drivers as i had 4 spare from an old cnc foam cutter i made a few years back, cant see that making any difference.
Anyone else had a similar problem?

HyperCube uses a CoreXY setup. In this setup, both motors need to work together to make the printhead move only along x or only along the y axis, If a motor works alone, that would make the printhead move diagnoally.
So if you instruct a X or Y only move, do you see both motors turning or only one motor?

If only one motor turns, did you set/uncomment

#define COREXY

in the marlin configuration?

I'm just about half way through constructing my HyperCube, which I'll mostly be using for LASER cutting work, probably also CNC milling.

Anyway, I was wondering if there was a reason why the Z axis motor is mounted at the back and the X/Y motors at the front? Is there any reason to not put the Z motor at the front, and have the back become the front? Seems to me that would potentially increase the available Y axis size.

Opposite of the XY motor side, the belts will run at the height of the printhead. At the Z motor, the Z lead screw will be in front of the printbed.

Most people (in their 3D print application) will prefer to have free access to the printbed from the front (for visual inspection of the print, or to clear boggers, or during filament change, etc pp).

The location of the motors as designed by Tech2C takes this into account very well i think.

However, maybe in your application, the requirements are different. Then a different arrangement might make more sense.

I wanted to know what measures I need for the frame to make a mini hypercube of 10x10x10

I have a problem, my axis is reversed, when i move x axis on pronterface, the printer is moving y axis but direction is correct
When i home all axis x and y move to correct home position, front left corner
How can i fix it?

i would guess you should double check your belt arrangement. You can turn the stepper motors by hand to see if it all works the correct way.

I decided to try dual extruders on my printer with this mount and it works really well.


Dual E3D Mount for HyperCube Carriage
by 2c2know

Hello my name is Sergio,
and i need some help, does anyone still have to 8mm versions of the z carriage and carriage clamp and the z rod clamps the files no longer has them in there
and i really need them to fix my printer

tech2c has a thingiverse repo for retired/old parts. you should find it there

Hi there tech2c my name is ashwani sharma and I want to make a 3d printer for my college project and I have all hardware parts but I don't have 3d printed parts which is used to make it and in which country or place I live there is no way to print or buy these parts .so can you please give me the 3d printed parts for my first 3d printer .if you give me 3d printed parts for my first 3d printer I am glad to have my first 3d printer diy for my college project and I am able to educate my junior students about 3d printer and I tell them about your YouTube channel and thingiverse and they also subscribe you channel and learn about 3d printers and more

hi, if you want you can contact sparx3d.ekm@gmail.com for 3D printed parts support in india.

Any person upgrade firmware to 1.1.9 ?

I'm running 1.1.9 and it's working great. Just edit the 1.1.9 configuration.h to closely match the 1.1.8 file.

I have my hypercube setup the same way way as in the pictures and almost everything is working as expected. The one issue that I'm having is that my test cube is coming out with the letter Z on the top mirrored on the Y axis. Any thoughts on whats needed to fix this?

Right now when I home the machine it homes the X to the left and the Y to the front of the machine.

I have included my marlin config file as well to give some idea whats going on. Any help would be amazing thanks.

I have all X Y Z _HOME_DIR setting to -1, check that. And check the motor connections, it seems you have a motor spinning the wrong way. To do that, set all HOME_DIR to -1 and start moving the motors until you get the correct movement. Home should be at the left front corner of the printer. Hope this helps. Good luck!

I got it. I had to swap the X and Y motor wires then all is well.

No luck. If i swap one motor then it does diagonal when homing the X or Y. If I switch both then its the same problem as before but on the X axis rather than the Y.

The only way I get it to get close to moving correctly is by either using the X_HOME_DIR 1 or Y_HOME_DIR 1 and switching the endstop plug to the appropriate endstop max plug rather than the min.

I had the same issue. What I did was place a breadboard in between the motor leads and the RAMPS board, identified the coil pairs and kept trying different combinations until homing worked. Just remember to power off the printer before moving wires.

This video explains in detail how to do it:

If anyone is looking for V-Slot for this upgrade, At www.Makerparts.ca we sell Genuine Openbuilds V-Slot rail and we can cut them accurately too!.Shameless Plug :) Located in Canada

Hello, I am trying to assembly my first hypercube and I've been having problems with the "configuration.h". I downloaded Marlim firmware and replaced the file to this one(in things files). When I try to upload to INO that shows the error mensage "you are using a old configuration.h please updated it". Please what should I do to upload it?

The configuration.h file is for Marlin 1.1.8, the latest stable Marlin is 1.1.9. Either update a new configuration.h for Marlin 1.1.9 with the settings from 1.1.8 or download Marlin 1.1.8 here https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases/tag/1.1.8

hi there tech2c!! can you give ir a try? thanks!!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262812

Hypercube tech2c lm12luu z shaft addons!

I'm having issues with zits and blobs. This problem seems to be more prominent on non-flat surfaces like the image I attached.

Things I have tried to address:

  1. extruder calibration
  2. retract settings (also turned off)
  3. infill pattern (also turned off)
  4. print speeds (lowers but does not solve)
  5. adjusted flow down to 80%

Visually, it looks like over-extrusion... but that doesn't seem to be it, at least flow settings don't fix it. I am wondering if it has anything to do with filament pressure in the bowden tube.. perhaps the angle of the tube, motor, etc.? I also attached an image of my setup. Because this happens more with prints that have contours, I am wondering if it is pushing filament outside of the wall when the extruder slows down. This makes me wonder if it has to do with acceleration / jerk. However, I am using the defaults from Marlin configuration included here.

Has anyone been plagued with this same problem? I have heard that Bowden setups can be tricky in this regard. Any ideas?

I am using DRV8825 stepper motor drivers and have doubled the x/y steps p/mm to accommodate in the firmware (from 80 to 160) I believe.

Dump from "M503":
echo: G21 ; (mm)
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D1.75
echo: M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z400.00 E95.40
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X2000 Y2000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
echo: M204 P1200.00 R3000.00 T2000.00
echo:Advanced: Q S T X Y Z E
echo: M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00
echo:Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z0.00
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H200 B60 F0
echo: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z-0.14

I had initial issues during setup the DRV8825 drivers being very noisy no matter how I adjusted them. I also used them as an "upgrade" on my Duplicator i3 and had a similar issue that you are describing. On my Hypercube I swapped in LV8729 steppers and now have a set of authentic TMC2208 steppers from Digikey.

I'm just in the process of building my Hypercube with DRV8825, and a couple of the motors were really loud until I adjusted the driver down, with a meter between the wiper and ground, I'm running at 0.5v to 0.6v. One of my drivers was set to over 1volt out of the packet, that motor really was not making happy sounds!

The DRV8825 will run 1/32 microsteps with the 1/16 microstep settings on the ramps board, so you'll need to double all the steps per unit compared to a 4988.

The reprap calculator can sort out the values for your X,Y and Z BTW. https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/

As I said, I'm just building mine right now, but I did calibrate my extruder drive earlier just getting it to push a length of PLA through, I'll see what setting I had. Have you tried measuring yours?

Thanks Tankslappa.
Funny that you bring up the voltages as I was just tweeking that last night. I have my X and Ys running on DRV8825s which are set to .7v. My extruder, running on a A4988, is set at .8v. I increased that because I was getting some "clicking" at the high speeds I was running when I had it at .7v... which, could be an indication there is too much pressure in the Bowden tube perhaps?

I did in fact calibrate my stepper again using 100mm of filament recently and all seems well there...

My steps per unit for the X/Y were doubled in the firmware so it looks like this:
"#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 160, 160, 400, 100 }"

I did another test print today after changing my temp down to 195. Because my goal with the Hypercube was always to print fast with decent quality, I tried to remove that expectation as a variable for now. In the middle of my print, I slowed Marlin down to 50% in the 'Tune' settings and guess what? It went away. See the attached pic.

So the big question... Is my expectation to print this fast with good quality results unrealistic, or should I be able to hone this in better?
In effort to try and answer this, here are the questions I am grappling with:

  1. Could these DRV8825s be noisy at high speed as Homerjatmoes suggests? I have not yet substituted them for the A4988s as a test, but I will soon.
  2. Could I be overloading the CPU on my KFB2.0 running a ATMEGA 2560 and creating some instability there?
  3. Most of the filament I use is from eBay (China vendor). I have some Hatchbox on order to see if that media improves it. Could it be certain filaments are not designed to be printed at high speeds?

What could I be leaving out?

Thanks for the response my friend!

Thanks homerjatmoes - that explanation to me, would make perfect sense at this point. Perhaps what I might try doing first (before spending more money) is put a couple of cheap (but trusty) A4988s which I happen to have on hand. I'll first confirm that the stepper drivers were the problem. If so, I'll order some TMC2208 which would have been a logical upgrade anyway.

I'll report back result in case others have faced a similar issue.

hello.. where to find instructions on how to assemble this thing

Anyone have 16mm z stls instead of the 12mm ones
Need the stl for all the z parts

Hello Guys :)
I wana ask about .. this size Make Working Area 20X20X20 Right ?!
So if i wana Make Work Area 40X40X40 .. What is the size Of Almnuim 2020 will Be ? ! Thanks

Does anyone have a mount for the Titan Aero for the Hypercube, plus a 12mm and 16mm mount for the sensor


Thank you Igor.

Hi ,
I prepared a 3D model of that great HyperCube , you can view it in the following link :
Hope it will help to all who trying to build it !

thank you very much! This is very helpful in understanding how to build it. Greatly appreciated.

if you had to do it again, would you stay with the 2020 aluminium or would you change to 3030 ?

Hello, 2020 extrusion is more than rigid enough for this application. The cube structure is quite strong. Going larger has no benefit. The weakest part of the printer is the X-Gantry, not the frame. Cheers.

I have built a bigger version, with 300x200 plate with 2020 profiles, the structure pretty much stable.

Hello. Does anyone have a model for mounting the hot-end MK8 on 4 bolts. It is worth it on tevo tarantula

What version of the hot end should I use if I want to use the Chinese version? There are long and short radiators.

Hey im attempting to build this model and had an idea. Can i double all the liner rails and bars to increase the size. I found all the larger parts i need. Except for the x rails. Can someone point me in the direction of x rails that will fit and are larger than 720mm.

Hi, i love this design of printer. I am building one but have some troubles. 1st of all somehow t-nuts from the list don't fit my v-slots. dont know how it is possible but i managed. The biggest problem for now, is that carriage is moveing so roughly over the carbon rods. I have igus tubes for carbon rods. My guess is when iam placing them inside carriage mount they are a bit deformating. And now i am lost. If i'll make x-axis, igus tubes mount more loose, igus tubes will eventually fall out. Any advice what can i do with that ?

Hi, there are different types of 2020 aluminium extrusions , with different dimensions of inner slots. For example, I have used profiles of german Item company , and I couldnt use standard chinese nuts for t slot profiles, and used squared M5 nuts , and even printed nuts that I have designed and printed . I also found that linear bearings not moved smoothly, and replaced them with L8 bearings ( also replaced carbon rods to regular SS rods).

Thanks for reply. I guess i have to do the same with rods. That's a pity, i really liked carbon rods idea.

Hello I built this 3d printer, but I have a problem... I always get a thermal runaway error. What can I do? Thank you for help!

Hello I have been building this printer for over a year now with my father an I've finally got it working, but with one exception. I have this issue that around the 1-3 layer the head will do this little dance and go over 3.5mm or so in the x and y axis and I have no clue what the issue is. I've tried to go through all the forums and everything and I could not find anything. I would greatly appreciate it if someone would be able to assist me

you tightened the pulleys screws?, cables snagging on something ?. a video would be better than a pic here.
is it possible the nozzle catching the print. you got lift Z enabled in your slicer

Can you change the to a thread rod in the normal stepper motor? really cool stuff you are doing!

Anybody use the BL-Touch on the hyper cube. Would anyone share their Conf-H file for Marlin that is configured for the bl-touch? I am having trouble and it would be appreciated. I am using Ramps 1.4 Thank You.

Here ya go buddy.

My sensor is on the left side of the extruder, when I look at it from the front

What about making the two X Rails horizontal to reduce and cancel out vibrations. It should give the ability to use much higher acceleration values. You would loose some Y movement and gain some Z but it would print more reliably. What do you think?

Comments deleted.

So if I wanted to use a 235 x 235mm heated bed I'd just add an extra 35mm onto my X and Y frame cuts right?! :D

Yes, and rods for X and Y.

Thanks.. Just waiting for my first lot of parts to arrive.. Can't wait to start building :)

Very nice upgrade to the 12mm Z-axis-rods.
Thanks for that, Chris!
Just printing the needed parts.
Guess, this will solve my Z-Banding-Problems.

Cheers Glenn :)

Any plans to add dual extrusion support? https://e3d-online.com/dual-extrusion-hotend

Also, any plans to add Z-axis rails, one to each of the front corners of the bed? This would solve bed wobble once and for all.

Hello . I have a problem with the extruder. Please guide me. I was setup heatbed and calibrating the extruder. But when printing, especially when I'm printing the first layer, the extruder comeback sometimes with noise.

Please send complete formula of extrude filament with detials
Thank you

hi can someone tell me witch diameter teflon tube i need for the bacis printer

2mm iner - 4mm outer

what is the reason for GT2 Idler Pulley's without teeth on the x axis assembly ?

teeth aren't needed, more over, the belt is on the soft side on this pulleys

Hi guys, my HyperCube built keeps printing ellipses and rectangles (see picture "before"). I calibrated axes (in Configuration.h) and now it is printing ellipses and squares (see picture "after"). Any ideas how to fix it?

Are you shure the X and Y pulley's have the same amount of teeth? solved a similar problem for me.

I have my HyperCube built. Everything is working with one exception... the thermisters ! Both are working separately (one installed at a time); however, pronterface indicates both the bed and the hot-end temps with only ONE thermister plugged in !??? I found that only T0 is working and when either are plugged into T0 both gauges on Pronterface indicate temperature about 4 degrees apart. When disconnected both gauges go back to 0/0 . My ramps and arduino boards are several years old.
Any ideas as to what could cause this ?

I would like to replace the M5 screws with M3, would it be possible to change the stl?

hi, what size is the bearing that supports the lead screw? thanks

buy 3D Printer, print 3D Printer with 3D Printer. Return 3D Printer. Profit.


i want to build this printer and i have a question, where can i get the customized plastic for motors and X,Y and Z axeses ?

Hi Tech2C,

First of all im really excited about building this printer, very nicely done!

I do have a question regarding the control board though. I see you used a RAMPS board and i was thinking about using a MKS GEN V1.4 board or MKS Base. Do you by any chance have the Configuration.h file that matches one of these boards? I have no idea what things i need to change except the part for "define board" in the configuration.h file.


I'm using a MKS GEN V1.3 board with my Hypercube. I believe that the 1.4 version uses the same board definition. You can find my Configuration.h file for Marlin 1.1.8 here: https://github.com/farzadb82/Marlin/blob/hypercube_1.1.8/Marlin/Configuration.h

I have a few customizations such as Linear Advance and heat bed placement that you may want to either disable or modify. Please don't directly write this configuration to your printer without changing/verifying some of the parameters.

Finally getting round to finishing my hypercube build that I started about 2 years ago and was curious, has anyone got the hypercube running with a Reprap Discount Rumba board and Marlin? I've got it all configured but had a heck of a problem getting smooth running, the motors were so out of sync.

Is the BOM up to date? It still lists a seperate lead screw and coupler for the Z axis instead of a stepper with integrated lead screw.

Yes it is. If you scroll further down there's an option for Z axis mounts for Integrated Leadscrew Motors, which is my preferred setup.

I seen to be having a problem with the print wondering off centre during the Print. all motors are set to hold there positions what om I doing wrong

Built mine but for some reason - software I know, the bed goes up but not down, xy will only move to one direction, since looking to the code is like trying to reed Greek I have no idea what to change.

After "HOMING" you can move up and down.

hi. When I try to compile the "configuration.h" I got an error message. Its about NUM_AXIS 4 and some of loops error. I wonder that How can I use only "configuration.h" without marlin.ino datas and others. Could you please clarify it?

You need to download marlin from github and then swap out the included (default) cofiguration.h in the marlin release with the one you downloaded from here (or other places).

I am using Marlin 1.1.8. The motors run in the right direction but I am unable to home either X or Y axis. When i try to home X from Pronterface the X starts homing in the right direction but once it hits the end-stop the carriage starts stuttering and moves in the -Y direction until it hits the Y endstop. After hitting the Y endstop, the motors don't stop. Need help resolving this. Configuration file attached.

May be you should take a look at this link which it actually help to resolve a similar issue with the end-tops and with the mirror images.


I have had a good look at your configuration and compared it with mine and the setting of your endstops are the same as mine. All I can suggest is that your endstop wiring may not be correct.

To check what your endstops are actually doing, send the command M119 to the printer and note the result. Then manually press either the X or Y endstop (as it it was triggered by the home command) and send M119 again while continuing to press the endstop. Compare the result with the previous one. This should report that the endstop you pressed was triggered.


No axis homed

Reporting endstop status
x_min: open
y_min: open
z_min: open

X and Y homed

Reporting endstop status
z_min: open

If the endstop you pressed does not show triggered check your wiring. If your wiring is correct you may have faulty endstop switches.

I hope this helps.


Thanks Sally,

I will try following your instructions and check. Can I request you to share your configuration.h for me to have a look? This is my first build and wanted to understand a bit more on the configurations.


Hi Venkat,

I'm using Marlin_Bugfix_2.0.x as my controller is a 32bit Re-ARM. There are quite considerable changes made to Marlin since 1.1.8.

Marlin_Bugfix_1.1.x will become Marlin_1.1.9 very soon and it will be the last firmware issued in that series.

Marlin 2.0.x will soon become the Marlin standard firmware, it supports all the 8bit boards from previous versions of Marlin, plus all of the newer 32bit boards.

What I'm trying to say is that my configuration will look a lot different to your configuration but don't let that put you off, all the bits you have in your config are in my config but not necessarily in the same place.


Thanks a lot Sally. Appreciate your help. Will check the end stops today evening and see if it works.


hi got this error but i cant see where to fix it..
someone pls help me ..

You must set Z_PROBE_DEPLOY_HEIGHT in your configuration."

Comments deleted.

hypercube design is good I want to build one
I follow machine assembly videos on youtube but it would be great if you can share assembly of the machine in the documented format

Did the brass bushings hold up OK? I noticed in some of your later videos, the anodised aluminium rods for the X-carriage have been changed for carbon rods and wondered what you are now using for bearings on the X-carriage. Thanks!

Where can I have the STL files for this build printed ?

maybe in the thing files

kind of doubt it that he will be able to PRINT those files in the thing files.

and for answer - look for lokal makerspaces (on facebook for example) - maybe someone will print them for you - it doesn;t take long for a decent printer and they are super easy to print) or use some service for printing - 3d hubs for example

I have an Anet A8 and E3d v6 kit for bowden. Anyone happen to have a list of the remaing parts needed? Thanks

so also i have made a hypercube, but i have a problem with the software. The didn't want to upload to my ramps 4.1. Do you have the correct software for the hypercube?


Do you mean RAMPS 1.4? All you need is Marlin firmware (current version is 1.1.8). Use the configuration.h file provided by Tech2C as a template for making changes to the stock configuration.h.

I came across this link from Hackaday. It looks like it would be an awesome remix for the Hypercube, but I don't have the skill to make the models, myself :/


On the 2GT-20 Teeth Timing Pulley do I need the 5mm or 8mm inner size, thanks?!

Thanks...haven't started yet but will be building this soon!

Does anybody know the total cost of the parts? It only costs around $220 online, is it more to build?

This has been discussed before. Depending on who answers, the cost to build a HyperCube is between $200-500. It also depends on how many donor parts are coming from another printer. In my case I kept my original Prusa i3 and bought all the parts to build my HyperCube. My cost was about $450. My cost was high because I bought some premium grade parts such as the power supply and the controller.

But then wouldn't it be more cost effective to just buy the printed version than to build it yourself? obviously by building you can customize it but you can easily upgrade the bought version as well.

Hi, i need help with configuration for z-step leadscrew, my leadscrew is tr8 pitch 2, in configuration.h z step is 400, is it 1/4 step jumper? i set mine in 1/16 jumper and set z step 1600, is it correct?

I have a doubt.
The X_Carriage_v1.2.stl works OK with lm8uu linear bearings without any modifications?

Thank you.

How many other builders have moved to the Snoothieboard in place of the old RAMPS/Arduino combination?

I recently converted my Arduino/RAMPS combo to a Re-ARM/RAMPS combo. The Re-ARM for RAMPS comes programmed with Smoothieware. I wasn't happy with Smoothieware so I changed to Marlin 2.0.x development branch. There have been a couple of hic-ups but overall the change to a 32bit controller has been worth it.

Good to know. I ended up with a v1.1 Smoothie 5XC and it was relatively painless to move from RAMPS 1.4 to it. I'll keep an eye out on the Re-ARM/RAMPS for a second printer.

If you do go for the Re-ARM/RAMPS you can get the Re-ARM here http://www.panucatt.com/Re_ARM_for_RAMPS_p/ra1768.htm

Good Morning,

do you think this will support a build platform of 300mmx300mmx300mm or will I need to build the hypercube evolution. if so do you know is there is any sites I can use to the get the measurements required. Thanks for your Time.

Best Regards

I have built a Hypercube and went for the dimensions you're talking about. My heated bed is 300x300 but I lost a little in the Y because my frame/rods were too short. It's 300x265x310, and the main difference from the regular build is double lead screw, front and back, with 4 12mm z-axis rods. There is the lead screw right in the front which limits access a little.

I do like the look of the Hypercube Evolution because it's designed with the 30mm frame, and the lead screws are on the side. With my machine so tall, the 20mm framing can only stay so stiff with the moving mass up high. I don't notice any artifact in my prints, buts but less vibration is always better.

If you want a printer that size then take a look at Eustathios-Spider-V2

I have a 300x300 printbed and there is a lot of cantelever slop on the far end (unsupported side) of the bed. I'm going to change to a four leadscrew system. This gives me two advantages - I am supported on all corners so there is no more cantelever slop and I can level my bed by adjusting the corner leadscrew like how you would adjust the spring loaded screws on the usual build.

I pretend to build a 300x300x300 based on Hypercube.
But i think it's needed to adapt to dual Z axes.

I'm doing some tests in Sketchup adapting Hypercube with some ideas from "Hypercube Evolution" but it's in early stages for now...


I'm looking into the feasibility of this project after watching your laser cut video :)

Noting this is a frame only salvaging spares from an existing printer. Is there a BOM that covers the scenario where we don't have another 3D Printer to raid for spares?


Yes, there is a BOM on the project's page. You will need to scroll down a little but it is there, with all parts needed.

Hello, where is the file x Endstop.stl ?? I did'nt find in the file's list.

Best regards

The X axis endstop is built into the carriage.

Hello ! I need a alittle help here with my nearly finished Hypercube :)
Im trying to print a new fan duct with the Hypercube course it is now in PLA..

With my old Anet A8 the fan duct was printing perfekt, but with the hypercube the fan duct dimensions is way to small :(

The fan duct is only 4.2 cm long and 1.6 cm wide .. :s also its over extruding in this case.
I have followed tech2c "Silence a noisy 3D Printer" and used the TMC2100.

Can anyone explain what to look for in this error?

Thanks !

Did you use the correct Configuration.h file? It defines the stepper pulses per mm for each axis. Incorrect values will give you incorrect object dimensions. Another possibility is incorrect jumpers for your stepper driver. I'm not familiar with the TMC2100 drivers.

Hi !

I'm currently building the hyper cube and has come to the stage where I wire up the ramps board etc, and having problem with the configuration.h file

It's a new ramps board without firmware and i've never had a look into the coding on my printer before... i've now downloaded the Marlin firmware from their site and replaced the configuration.h file with the one for the hyper cube.

When i try to compile I get :

error "You are using an old Configuration.h file, update it before building Marlin."

Has anyone else got that error and knows how to fix it ??

Best regards

Download and try an older version of Marlin. that wil work.

or you can take the new configuration.h file and with a little comparison program put the settings in from the old file.

All the hard work to keep up with the latest Marlin (1.1.18) is done by Peter Flannery (aka pflannery). Visit https://github.com/pflannery/Hypercube download his Configuration.h file and replace the one that comes with Marlin 1.1.18. Compiles fine on my Ramps 1.6, I get feedback on Arduino Monitor and slicer software but I didn't have the chance to attach my motors yet as I haven't yet finished building my Hypercube.


I actually managed to get it to compile using the tool Sally suggested but if i run into more problems i'll definitely try that.

The code uploaded to the board but the lcd didnt work so i looked up the strings choosing the display type and found that i had the wrong one enabled so I changed... an now when I try to upload the change i get:

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device ".\COM4"

Googled it and seems like a common problem but haven't found a fix that works... bah !

I guess it's not really related to the hypercube but if anyone here just happens to know how to solve it please let me know :)


Uninstalled the COM port on my laptop, restarted and connected the USB again and it worked !


Hi Erik,
I'm glad I could help and you have managed to get everything working.

Hi Eric,
The problem is that the old configuration.h file is not compatible with the latest Marlin. In the past couple of months Marlin has changed dramaticaly. I'm afraid you are going to have to change the new configuration.h to reflect the settings in the old configuration.h. I use a program called 'WinMerge' to compare the config files and changing the new config file using the transfer tools.


Thanks a lot for your reply Sally !

I'll try that, don't have much experience in coding thou so if anyone has an updated version already please post it :)

I guess many people will run into the same problem...


Unfortunatly I expect this will be very common. I'm afraid the config I'm using probably won't be of much use to you as I am using a 32 bit controller.

Hi, Sorry i cant write a good mail in English, excuse me for my mistakes, what is it defult dimension?

Hi, I'm your FAN, you've made an exceptional 3D printer.
I request you for a project of a new HyperCube with a double extruder, and slightly larger so as to print 20x20x20 exactly.
As an extruder you should put the E3D Cyclops I have seen several tests and at the end for size and maintenance would seem the best.
Of course you could modify your HyperCube by printing it PLA and PVA.
Many of us are tired of losing hours of work to clean objects from the usual supports.
But by printing the PVA media the work would be really lightened.
I wait for your news.
Thank you in advance

Hello Tech2C. I`ve got one question i wanna make one but with a big size 800mmx800mmx800mm can i do it and i should change plz i new here and i dont have experience

I would suggest, especially if you've never built a printer before, to start with the dimensions and parts exactly as Tech2C lists in his bill of materials (BOM). You will learn a lot about the process of designing and building the printer and will also learn the gotchas of building such a large print platform.

The biggest issue will be availability of rods and lead screws of the length necessary to make a 800x800x800 build volume.

Hi. Is there anybody who has used a Makeboard as 3D printer mainboard for the Hyper Cube.
I used one but have some issues with the configuration.

Great design. Why do you use two fans?

I see. You blow air through the fan duct to the hot end. Is that necessary?

"I see. You blow air through the fan duct to the hot end. Is that necessary?"
absolutely necessary, in short the the E3D H/ends require active cooling continuously while printing " else you get whats known as heat creep". the second "parts fans", will come on intermittently. As and when your slicer calls for it , so combining the two aint a good idea as you be blowing air on the first layer which in turn cools the base far quicker and you'll be prone to curling and lifting before the prints finished.

Thanks for your reply. So, what design do you suggest?

would the recomended 220v power supply be okay to use in Australia with 240v?

Yes. 220/230/240V is usually all the same technology with different naming, and either of those will work in Australia. Same with 110/115/120V being the tech generally used in the USA. It's mostly only those two different groups that you have to deal with. (Apart from Japan with its own 100V but you can't buy that kind of tech anywhere really, anyway)

A questione please. Z_leadscrew_supportv1.1 seems different than the image that appears in thingiverse, is corret? Regards

Yes. It is correct

Hi, i'm building a hypercube but i am using 12mm steel rods for the Z and Y axis, just because i have a bunch of it and dont want to buy new ones, can someone plese modify the parts that needs to be modified to fit the lm12uu bearings and the 12m rods? im not good in modeling.
On the x axix i'm using 10mm carbon fiber tubes with brass bushings.

Hello. I printed the piece XY_CLAMP-V1.1 and XY_JOINER_V1.1., and inserted the bearing LM8LUU 8mm as recommended for the y-axis, but is too large inside, does not get stuck inside. Any advice pls?

Piece of electricians tape wrapped around the bearing.

any person work with MKS-BASE controller for COXY model. if Yes please guide me

I have two HyperCubes with MKS Gen controllers which are similar to the Base controller. What do you need to know? Do you need the Configuration.h file? I have attached mine.

Thank you
I want work with MKS V1.4 or V1.5 .
please say to me best LCD:
color or monochrome?
graphic LCD or character LCD?
your configuration file work witch hardware( LCD & MKS version)?

My configuration is an MKS Gen V1.4 with the Full Smart Graphic Controller

It should work fine with MKS Base V1.4 or V1.5. If you don't have the full graphic controller comment out the line that enables it. Do a search to find the line.

your configuration file work with this display?
if need change in file please say to me

No it will not work with that display. I believe that display is supported. You will have to modify the Configuration.h to support the MKS Graphic display.

Please introduce me the best and most simple 3D design software

Nice Work :)
i Have Question ?!
i can Use your Parts With New Size ? i meen i can use Same parts with 1 M X 1 M X 1M !! ?
or i will face problem ?! when the machine work !

What parts do i need to do a Dual Z setup?
im gunna make mines 300x300x300
Would the dimensions of the printer change because i went from 1 to Dual Z? (Total space not "Print Area")
Do i just have to print the Z Part Twice?

Did you see my reply to your earlier request?

Pretty much just print the Z parts twice and also increase the Y direction to accommodate the added mechanical bits.

Ooh sorry yeah I did but this was for 300x300 not the 200x300. This would be my first printer from scratch so I wanna be 100% sure with everything.
I'm going to be using the ZYLTech frame and wanted to add the 2 Z motors on the left and right. Would 440 on the Y be enought cuz the Aluminum kit just makes a huge 440x440 cube plus 40mm do to the Z extrusion one both sides (2 2020s)

Mine's a 300x300x300 and the X&Y are both 440 so I could have placed the Z supports on the side had I chosen to do so. You may want to read about the size adjustments needed so the Z supports fit though as it was a bit trial and error when I built mine.

I did my Z height as 555 in order to provide room underneath for the electronics but if those will be outside the frame then the Z rails can probably be 50mm or 60mm shorter. Going down to 480 would be cutting it pretty close in my opinion. Better to have it a bit too tall than too short if you really want a 300mm Z build height. Otherwise the 480 would be fine.

Yeah the "ZYLTech HyperCube Frame Kit" would allow me make a Printer that's 300x300x300 with a 100mm for components in the bottom
so each side is 440mm (the kit gives you 10 for 4 top, 4 bottom and Dual Z locations) so i think i should be fine

I finished my build a month or two ago and I wanted to warn everyone about the RAMPS board. They can be of very varying quality. My first one had resistors soldered wrong as well as a few solder bridges that I had to fix. It eventually stopped connecting to my PC. I bought a second one, and after many successful PLA prints I decided to try PETG. I cranked the bed temp to 70 degrees and after an hour of printing the RAMPS lit on fire.
Be careful everyone! Don't leave your printer unattended.

Yes, if you buy cheap this happens. The mosfet in the chinese ramps boards are absolutely not rated for this high power draw. You can buy better mosfets but the best choice is to buy a good quality board in the first place. You will not regret it when your house did not burn down. I am e.g. using this ramps: https://www.tindie.com/products/staticboards/ramps-14-sb-premium/

Yeah, luckily I learned the easy way. I've always had a rule to never leave the house while the printer is going, and it saved my butt here.
I've decided to upgrade to a Duet WiFi and just skip the RAMPS platform altogether,

I created this solution for protecting against a 3D printer catching fire.


3D Printer Safety Shutdown - Smoke Detector

There's an online calculator which will optimize your cuts for your 2020 to maximize its use so you don't waste any with tiny leftovers.
Select linear and enter the length of the 2020 you have and the cuts you need. Super easy!


I'm having an impossible time printing the fan duct. The walls are paper thin and I can't get it to stay together using two different printers, either PLA or PETG, different orientations, different speeds. Is there an alternate fan duct out there that will work with your designs? Everything else is phenomenal and I thank you dearly for the time and effort you put into this project and look forward to building mine when the materials all arrive. Thanks again!

Just found this file that I believe will fix every issue that I have been facing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2252306


Improved Fan Duct for HyperCube

Could i use a non square bed something like 200x300? also is there a way to modify the frame for dual Z motors?

I did a dual Z implementation on my 300x300 build.


HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC

Hello Tech2C. I`ve got one question. The X-Carriage designs you have shown in your YouTube Videos arent in the Thingiverse files. Am I right ? I wantet to use Carbon fibre rods and then the brass bushings arent the best I think.

Hey AtomiQ,

i just finished assembly of my basically vanilla HyperCube using carbon fibre rods. I used the X carriage design on thingiverse here with the dual bushing holder using two igus bushings (the ones Tech2C linked here) at either end, just like Tech2C showed in his video. It works very well, even if i had to print the dual bushing holders a couple of time to arrive at 102% scaling factor to loosen up the very tight fit with the igus bushings on the carbon fibre rod. I also sanded the carbon fibre rod slightly as tech2c showed in his video (but i did it under running water to eliminate the carbon dust from getting airborne, and my carbon fibre was all but consistent in thickness, i basically sanded down the high spots).

So as far as i know, all required parts are there.

And yeah, i know, i still need to publish the make. I will do that as soon as my wiring does not look like a rats nest anymore ^^


Thank you for your Reply :) I just figured it out and have ordered the igus bushings. But realy thank you anyways for the answer :) When my Hypercube is assembled I will post a make for sure..but it will take some time. Just ordered most of the parts in the last few days.And many of them come from china :0 The only missing things are the stepper motors. Havent decided yet, which ones I should buy and from where. Cause the can get pretty expensive very fast. Another thing I thought about was using 2 TMC2100 drivers for just the X and Y axis. Do you think that would be possible ? Or do all of the drivers need to be the same ?

As far as i know, you can combine stepper drivers as you wish. I have actually bought 3 TMC2130 step sticks (but not installed yet) and did not intend to swap the extruder (at least not so far).

But since i have not yet actually done so, please take my advice here with a grain of salt ;)

okay maybe something for the future. For now I want to get the costs as low as possible :D

Comments deleted.

Hi Tech2c,

first at all nice work. I'm looking forward to recycle my old corexy into your design, but I'm wondering if a single sided Z axis is enough for a 300x200 bed incl. 5mm Aluminium print bed or shall I remix it to a double Z solution?

Many thanks in advance

Hello, yes X300 by Y200 would be fine with single sided Z axis (cantilevered) supported bed.

Hi Tech2C, I love your work! I was wondering, are all the files that are provided, updated with the build log videos? Thanks!

Yes. Older versions can be found in a link at the bottom of the description "Retired Hypercube parts"

Hello, Where do I find the feeder holder model?

There's a file named "Bowden_drive_mount.stl".

I'm having trouble with the XY_Clamp_v1.1 and the XY_Joiner_v1.1 not clamping tight enough to the LM8LUU 8mm Linear Ball Bearing Bushing. The bushing moves around even once all of the screws are tightened. Any advice?

I had the same issue and I used some thin plastic from a shopping bag to shim the bearing. Works great now.

The license is truely awful for this one.
This is the paragon of greed and envy, making it impossible to legally use this printer to make almost anything but useless toys for yourself nor to make parts and kits for anyone but yourself.

Shame on you, t2c.

Wow, just wow. Is 2018 the year of the troll? The stl files are free, FREE! If you don't like FREE, go to another site which requires you PAY for stl files. Sites like Thingiverse exist for people like me to share my work, and for 3D printer owners to quickly download and print with their printers. You would prefer Thingiverse not exist? Please leave.

Some people will never be happy with anything, its part of their upbringing im sure, Me personally I have learned over time to be very thankful for the good things people do to provide for others to enjoy and be FREE!! a lot of thought and patience and time let alone money (prototyping) has gone into inventing this and providing it for us to enjoy. so if you have a issue with this at all Goury then please keep your rude comments to yourself as a lot of others and i mean thousands of us appreciate it and we don't need a bad apple in our bunch of great harvest times...be grateful!!
To Tech2C id like to say thank you very much for all you have done and provided for us to enjoy in our lives.... it works great and look forward to any future printers also coming form you.... happy new years to you and everyone else here on thingiverse reading this..

@Thumper72 I agree with every word of what you said :D

I'd prefer you and your demagogic lies don't exist, CC-NC license is not free, it's basic proprietary license used to restrict users freedom.
The fact you don't charge money for the files doesn't make them free.
You force people to use those files on discriminating terms.

And you and your fanboys just supporting your greed and your envy.
Face it, you'd prefer no one being able to use your files to anyone making few cents of profit by making it available to others.

People sell stuff for money not because they are greedy bastards (like you), but because there is demand and they serve those who are willing to pay for their demand to be supplied.
But, thanks to your envy, this demand can not be legally supplied.
And thanks to your greed, even those who are able to build the thing themselves will be forever legally restricted to use the thing as they want.

Please, take you lack of knowledge elsewhere. The only thing non-commercial refers to are the parts themselves, not the printer. Once you build the printer, you can use it however you want. Either ACTUALLY READ what the license means, or leave.

jeez, the license allows you to remix it, print it, and whatnot. He just doesn't want other people making money off of his work, which is understandable. your lucky the files are free, so just be thankful for that.

what horse shit,,, what you upset with "you cant clone it, and profit from others work?

Horseshit is the fact there is so many so dumb people who approve such envy and greed.
You and t2c is just two greedy and envious bastards who parasite on community ideas.

What bad could happen if anyone would be allowed to make and sell those things? Popularity?
But because of this license no one is able to buy such kit nor anyone who built it himself will be allowed to print anything that can bring any kind of profit.

This is even worse than regular proprietary printers with no sources available at all.
Hewlett Packard at least not restricting you from selling your prints or from printing things for your business needs.

NC means that not only you are not allowed to sell those parts, but also that you are not allowed to sell anything that you will make using those parts nor have any sort of profit by having any of this parts.

so you not be printing one then.
" but also that you are not allowed to sell anything that you will make using those parts nor have any sort of profit by having any of this parts."
wheres that in the licence,

"You and t2c is just two greedy and envious bastards who parasite on community ideas."
LOL you sad person what the hell have I got to be envious of ? having three Hcubes.
you sound like a member of the taker movement " cant design/create anything for yourself so you just wanna take others designs and turn a profit.. so before you call others "greedy and envious bastards" take an hard look at yourself.

I will not reply to dumb people who can't even read the license

Let's deal with this based on the license text:
If you read the license you will also read:
"1. Definitions
c. Distribute" means to make available to the public the original and copies of the Work or Adaptation, as appropriate, through sale or other transfer of ownership."

Note the word "sale".

"3. License Grant.
c. to Distribute and Publicly Perform the Work including as incorporated in Collections; and,
d. to Distribute and Publicly Perform Adaptations."

I do not understand your opinion, that
"NC means that not only you are not allowed to sell those parts, but also that you are not allowed to sell anything that you will make using those parts nor have any sort of profit by having any of this parts."

Can't you fucking just read?

  1. Restrictions
    You may not exercise any of the rights granted to You in Section 3 above in any manner that is primarily intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or private monetary compensation. The exchange of the Work for other copyrighted works by means of digital file-sharing or otherwise shall not be considered to be intended for or directed toward commercial advantage or private monetary compensation, provided there is no payment of any monetary compensation in connection with the exchange of copyrighted works.

Note the words "You may not" and also words "in any manner"

The biggest problem that is ruining the world is that people have uninformed "opinions" about something they don't understand and they proclaiming those opinions as being equally valid as facts.

I don't have opinion on this topic, I just state the fact: everyone who is using CreativeCommons NC or ND licenses are just envious greedy jerks.
They don't want to share anything, they don't want to do anything good, they just parasite on others works while not giving back anything.

T2c just fucking stolen a lot of ideas and schematics from reprap and published his derivation violating the license.

First off, I can smell your sweat through the screen. Secondly, t2c spent the time to design and make videos to literally help you make the printer. It is his design and does not want people producing it and slapping their logo on it. I don't feel as if my freedom is violated or he is greedy because I can't sell his design. So what? He used others ideas to help create it. What about your phone/computer that you're using to type this, I'm sure it looks and functions just like thousands of others devices out there. If you feel so offended by this then go create your own very popular printer and let people put their brand on it. t2c let people use his awesome design and I consider that giving back to the community. You're not helping anyone.

A few things:

  1. Goury does make an interesting point, unfortunately in rude, close viewed way.
    This is a machine to produce things, and a good design at that. I am thinking of starting a prototyping business, and was thinking on using the Hypercube. It would be a problem if I couldn't use it for "commercial advantage.

  2. The CC licenses are intentionally vague, and open to interpretation.
    3 CC is a Copyright license. Copyrights cover "original works of authorship including literary, dramatic, musical, and artistic works, such as poetry, novels, movies, songs, computer software, and architecture. Copyright does not protect facts, ideas, systems, or methods of operation, although it may protect the way these things are expressed" via https://www.copyright.gov/help/faq/faq-protect.html
    It's a bit of a gray area :-/

"T2c just fucking stolen a lot of ideas and schematics from reprap and published his derivation violating the license."

T2C took some inspiration from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1458824 observe the NC Idiot,

T-Bot Core XY Printer remix
by T-Bot

You missed the important words "in any manner that is primarily intended".
Which also means that "They don't want to share anything" is wrong.
Also ask yourself the question : if someone does not want to share: why are you able to read and download the work here?
If someone does not want to share, you simply and logically would not read all this as this page would not exist,
neither would you be able to read about derivates (which are allowed by this license).

No, you missed the important words "in any manner".
This files here only to promote authors youtube channel from where he earns money by monetizing propietary videos on ads.

Looks like you just another either illiterate or demagogist person.
If you claim my sentence is wrong — provide the proof.

If they want to share the thing why are they restricting usage of shared thing?
Because they don't want to share, they want to promote themselves and they are too envious to let others use anything they made.

"in any manner that is primarily intended" has a bit different meaning than "in any manner"
If the author shares this derivate, then your "They don't want to share anything" is obviously wrong.
And the restriction is solely in the above meaning : " in any manner that is primarily intended".
If his primary intention is the promotion of his youtube channel - as you state : Q.E.D.
You are well allowed to share a derivate of the derivate of the derivate as long as you do
"include a copy of, or the Uniform Resource Identifier (URI) for, this License with every copy of the Work You Distribute or Publicly Perform. "

You just made six logical mistakes.
Most likely on purpose.

There is no point to continue, I am not paid to perform law advisory assistance here.

You're not the smartest guy on the internet xD
I actually wrote my final thesis about the Creative commons Licencing...
The CC-NC Licence just means that you can't sell the actual product (in this cas you can't build the printer and sell it...), but you're totally allowed to print stuff on it and sell it. And you must give attribution to the creator when sharing the file or showing of the printer.

If you find some grammar errors, you can keep them, I usually speak German, French and Italian but not english

You don't know if I am or if I am not.
But you are clearly can't fucking read the fucking license.

again where does it state.
" but also that you are not allowed to sell anything that you will make using those parts nor have any sort of profit by having any of this parts."
because you cant pin point where, because you interjected your own twisted view into it. Sad excuse for a human CC-NC exist so folks like me and others can share an idea without having a rude grubby bastard with a dictionary running off with them.
all the best gettin you head out your mothers arse.

Hi, please can you update configuration.h for Marlin 1.1.8. Thanks

Marlin is GNU GPL v3 which is incompatible with license of this printer.
Say hello to t2c's greed and envy.

Goury, Why? If you don't have anything nice to say, just dont say anything.

Go teach your kids what to say and how to tolerate parasites.
I am free to say whatever I want to say.

It is not me who is parasiting on society and violates licenses.

Actually, Goury, you are mistaken with your second statement. You are not free to say “whatever [you] want to say” as long as you are saying it on the platform of Makerbot Thingiverse. In their Terms and Conditions, Section 3.3(a)(ii), it is explicitly stated that “harassing…vulgar, defamatory [and] false” statements are not permitted, among other things. With this comment and others, I as well as several other people have found your words to be contrary to that agreement. Therefore, you have been reported with the hopes that you will realize your statements were uncivil, and that you will eventually rectify them or attempt to make amends. Apart from that, I wish you luck and hope you eventually understand the error of your former ways.

You are not at all knowledgeable on this topic. Please leave and take your parasitic attitude elsewhere.

there no shame in having mental health issues, but seek medical help soon

I am looking to build a larger version of the Hyper Cube out of 3030 aluminum. Is there a cad drawing of a Hyper Cube that I can use as a baseline to start drafting my version? I plan to use a dual Z axis setup, one front, one back. I am also looking to modify it in other ways as well. Thanks to all that have posted parts and build vods! I will post my information once I have built mine.

The "HyperCube Evolution" might be what you want.

HyperCube Evolution

Do you have a config file for marlin 1.1.8 ? I wanted to change with this site https://text-compare.com/ but there are too many lines I am afraid to make mistake

Wanting to use the new bowden holder on my prusa clone the nut spacing is diferrent compared to the old tech2c design has anyone modified the x carriage for the x axis rod spacing etc.

So....being as I live in an area where aluminum extrusion is near impossible to find. Has anyone thought of using 2x2 wooden beams to build the frame or something more easily accessible?

In that case maybe you should build a smartrap core, which is made of wood panels.
Or... buy aluminium extrusions from aliexpress or banggood, they send stuff worldwide as far as I know.

I NEED A BIT OF HELP!! What components did people use? The lead screws? The motors? and every thing else?

Everything what you need is on the description.

I want to build this but I want to buy the materials from Aliexpress. Do you have links them ?

LCD is on. For what LCD does not display any characters. Only characters that look like a square.

Maybe your contrast is too high, there should be a little potentiometer on the pcb of the display that you can turn (not too hard) with a screwdriver

Hello is anyone else having problems with the bltouch and Marlin. I am using a mks 1.4 board with a bltouch and a glass bed. The sensor works fine and is reliable but with marlin 1.1.6 the first probe when you turn on the printer is always wrong. The first print always prints in the air above the bed. I have to leave the printer on and cancel the print then start it again then its fine.

I've written a new calculator for scaling up the HyperCube: http://superjamie.github.io/hypercube

For anyone looking, the current best version of this printer is the HyperCube 300, regardless of what bed size you use: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517628

We have a large collection of community build tips too: https://github.com/superjamie/lazyweb/wiki/3D-Printing-HyperCube

Hypercube 300 CoreXY

i have a question, how long is the PTFE tube for the bowdenextruder?

Depends where you put the extruder

I have the extruder on right back.
My problem is that when printing diagonally it comes to under or over extrusion

I put mine on the side with as short a Bowden tube as possible, see here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2565427

Capricorn XS tube has a smaller ID so helps reduce filament play too.

Maybe you need to play with the advance algorithm in your firmware. Marlin, Repetier, RepRapFirmware all have at least one. Smoothieware does not.

Titan/Drakon/NSTT or other geared extruder mount for 2020 (HyperCube)

I'm concidering making this, is there anyway to get a step file for this? i'm thinking of making a 600x600 bed, and making this huge.

I am doing a 300x300x450 build and IMHO I think the design is about at its limits with that size platform. You might need to look at dual Z axis screw drive, one on each side of the X or Y axes, to support the extra weight (and distance from the three sole supporting devices) on the cantilevered bed.

I'm currently doing a 300x300x762 build. I'm still in the design stage. Check out my page.

There's no obligation to post source files.

there are two diemensions for frame (350,350,303) and (340,350,303) what is the original? and if i make (400,400,400) is good or now
thank you

According to the build log #0 video, the first version of this printer was X: 350, Y: 300, Z: 350.

The reason why 3mm length was added to the Y axis is because the length of the steel rods from banggood has an error around that value.
"Please note that the shaft may have -3mm errors." (https://www.banggood.com/Outer-Diameter-8mm-x-300380400500mm-Cylinder-Liner-Rail-Linear-Shaft-Optical-Axis-p-993100.html)

As he's telling on the description, you can build with 400mm extrusions, but be careful of that errors.

wich software you use for test of motors.
please say address link to me.

where can i find the cad files?

Wir haben in unserem Forum einen neuen Bereich für den Hypercube 3D geschaffen.

Weitere tolle Beiträge zum Thema 3D Druck und Aktionen sowie Coupon Code findet ihr im Forum !

Okay I didn't read all 2407 comments but I'd like to know the cost for the build.

hypercube EVO here , cost about 500AUD, or less than 400USD. coz i can get stuff from china directly via taobao.com (cheaper than bannggood or aliexpress). the shipping fee is about 1/3 of all the cost lol.

I looked at the site. They want 605.00 USD plus shipping for a CR10 printer that is selling for 379.00 USD on gearbest. I had a hard time reading the site even after translating it to English. What are you buying that cost so much less?

that site is not meant to be used outside of China. that is why the price is a bit different.
I source every single part from a different seller make sure i get the cheapest (and ofc, not one individual seller has everything needed),

the HCE just basically has more aluminum extrusion than CR10, and extrusion cost way less compare to locally.
Also the more you buy , the less each KG/Price for the shipping will be.

here is how shipping works: you will need a 3rd man in this.

You buy all your parts from different sellers and the address you use is the one provided by the 3rd man(agent).
and when all the goods arrived, the 3rd man going to repack them and then send them to you oversea.
In mainland china, the shipping fee is so cheap, basicly any thing cost more than 12RMB(less than 2 US dollar) , will have shipping covered.
The Aluminum extrusion and steel rods are what counts during second shipping (repack). And that is what cost me 130$US dollar. it is roughly about right for the weight/price.
I am using the cheapest hardware (MB, driver, PSU). So the whole electronic cost me less than 100$(ramps+mega2560+5 driver=12$USdollar, get the picture)
Another 100$ goes to extrusions.
Another 50$ goes to rods (this doesn't cost much, but cost a lot in shipping, it's like 20$ for all my steels rods, and 30$ shipping lol)
all in all, its roughly there, definitely wont go above 500$usdollar.

idk why the CR10 is selling so expensive in China, but if you look at anet a8, that is about the same price.

just search each part in taobao.com, and see the price. divide by 6.6 is USD.
banggood selling them roughly about twice the price compare to Taobao. and this is a lightweight part, so shipping fee isnt a factor.

And i am not using the intergraded Z-lead screw motor, that thing cost a lot even in china.

For my 300x300x450 build with US sourced 2020 extrusion and Banggood sourced everything else (sans E3D head, that's Amazon, US source), I am at about $950.

That seems like a very high cost. I have built two of these printers and was able to do each for around $500. What were your more expensive items? Are you in a distant location which drove up the cost?

That's cool you built one. It's out of my price range.

And for ppl cant do the way i did. The price will go up the substantial amount for sure. Have you tried to add up all the BoM parts? From the website, you can access from? i think taobao is a bad idea for anyone that doesn't know Chinese, often times i can chat to the seller directly, and they can even give me a bit discount as i am buying many kind of parts from one seller.(So i don't have to just buy 2 timer pulley from one seller and the other 8 from another, and paying the shipping fee twice (because of less than 12$ worth each transaction). And also navegating around the website. Also chinese is needed for the 3rd man(agent), as most of them dont speak English.

There's 81 mentions of "cost" in the comments, you can just CTRL+F for it here ;)
Different opinions about pricing, always depending on your region, and what you already have / can make yourself.

That's awesome. Never knew that.

Hi, can you print a stl file that is on a SD card without problem ? If yes, it comes from your USB port. If no, I can't help you... First, verify all your connections, change your USB cable...Eliminate the simple problems...

I have an Asus labtop and the USB ports are very unstable, For example, i cannot copy something to an external hardrive without being disconnected. I'm obliged to use supercopier.

So i use only files on SD Card...

Help, I need some help. I have a 3d printer that I set up following some videos on the internet. The printer from time to time stopped connecting to the computer via the pronterface and the repeater. All the ports are configured normally on the computer and the arduino, already I switched of computer but nevertheless does not work more, what could have happened? Help me please.

Not printing right..print shifted 30% off 90Degrees and printing base at 45 Degrees...
Here is my Configruation.H Any Idea what I am doing wrong???

You did not uncomment the line
//#define COREXY

You probably did not use the Configuration.h supplied by Tech2C

I did and it almost ruined my Printer and Cracked my Glass.
Also Marlin is Highlighting this #error "Old configurations? Please delete all #include lines from Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h."
ok solved that all I need do is test the config now,
Still misbehaving

Sorry but I don't understand what you are talking about. Uncommenting COREXY cracked your glass. What glass? Are you using a HyperCube which is a CoreXY printer? Please explain.

The suggestion I made regarding enabling COREXY is in the Configuration.h file supplied by Tech2C.

Anyone have a Bltouch mount for the new x-carriage?

Is there a good way to use a removable glass bed with the Hypercube instead of aluminum? If tried using glass the same way as Tech uses aluminum but I keep breaking the corners when I remove parts.

There is some problem
8 mm shafts and lead screw are not aligned, the problem is with the files
and Z_Shaft_Clamp_v1.1

move the beam holding the lead screw holder!...you done techs V1 bed setup he changes later into the build log by making the beam to the leadscrew adjustable.

First up congratulations on what is a fantastic, innovative piece of machinery. I really appreciate you taking the time to put together an awesome build log. Now that it is finished how about a nice detailed build guide omitting all of the re-works :-)

Anyway - I have never owned a 3D Printer but have been researching them for a year or so now - poss longer. I recently came across this video by Fugatech 3D Printing in which is was building a Hypercube.

After watching this I have finally managed to sit and watch all (well nearly all) of the original Hypercube 3D Build Videos which inspired him (and many many others).

Man oh man I have just got to build this bad boy. All of the value 3D printers that I have been shortlisting all have something I don't like and when I found the Hypercube variation it ticks all my boxes. I like the encased rigid frame and the fact that the build platform only goes up and down.

I am looking at either a Hictop Prusa i3 or Anet A8 as the machine to get to print my parts and use as donors for parts but was also potentially thinking about building this from scratch to avoid having left over parts from the donor machine.

I am also looking at extending the height to get all of the electronics underneath and may look at increasing the Z height to get a nice 200 x 200 x 200 (sorry I think I am a little autistic)


  1. Looking at the BOM you appear to have listed everything to build a working 3D printer, including items donated from the donor machine? What would the ball park figure in $ / £ for the BOM less items donated from another printer (Ramps / Arduino / PSU? (Less 3D printed parts of course). Or what is the BOM $/£ with these items and I can minus those bits that I would already have?
  2. Looking at the videos there appears to be no issues with a cantilever build platform but at what Z height would a additional support be needed?
  3. If additional support is needed would this be a smooth guide rail / threaded bar or an additional stepper motor and bar?
  4. I assume any standard non Core X/Y 3D printer could be used as a donor as the ability to print larger is simply based on the new build size and software? Such as a Hictop Prusa i3, Anet A8? I guess as long as the core parts (electronics / heatbed / extruder) are all good) Auto leveling can be added as an upgrade
  5. When transferring donor electronics do you need new firmware to account for the larger build (is this MARLIN? sorry newbie).
  6. In the build videos is the induction sensor an auto leveling device? And once setup no need to manually level?

For my final build I would probably encase it in perspex with some additional fans installed in the case (with LED's of course).

Many thanks

  1. With a donor prusa i3 this upgrade ran me ~140 dollars including getting all the 3d printed parts off of 3d hubs. You might want to build your own spreadsheet based off of your BOM to make sure you don't buy extra, or have the right things. One thing to check is screw sizes, My printer came with m3x18 rather than 20, and that made it completely unbuildable, Its the same scenaro for screws that are too long, so be sure you've got that right. If you use your smooth rods from your old printer, what I did was use the Old Y axis for the new z-axis and old z axis for the new y axis to have a bigger z axis, and support for a bigger build platform. I of course bought aluminum extrusions to accommodate it.
    I have a rough BOM i used, with things I already owned at 0 dollars, and some parts excluded.
  2. idk
  3. idk
  4. Most of you pars should be good, but you'll probably need to get lots too.
  5. You don't need new firmware for the build volume, but you will need to reflash to change the motion to corexy as far as I know
  6. Yes

Wow - so many comments!! How about a dual Z axis mod??

There are a number of dual Z axis implementations. Mainly for those of us that build an up-sized version.


HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC

do you still have that version of the X Carrage that uses M8 Rod and LM8UU Linear Bearings?
Seems your link for the bushings and Carbon Rod are taking me to Bearings that are too Tight for the Carbon rod.....

Hi there. I made myself a Hypercube using the parts from my old Anet A8 but I seem to have some problems which I can't seem to fix.
I managed to get it printing but the head will stop or slow down to the point where it looks like it stopped while printing. I can't seem to find what causes this problem. It happens at 30mm/s and it happens at 80mm/s, any speed I try, the stopping is still there. I am running the stepper drivers on the 1/16 mode.
Someone on the web suggested it might be because of the buffer size, so I increased the size of the buffer to 32 but it still does it. I tried printing it from the SD card but it still does it, although, it appears not to stop so often.
Has anyone encountered this issue before?

no problems with build plate 'sag'? If I wanted to make the height 210 I should just add 10 cm to it? would I need a longer lead screw?

Not much sag at all if built correctly. To be fair, that took me a few rebuilds, but I think that was just me. Just take your time while building and adjusting the z-axis, and you should be fine.

For the height, the default max z-height is around 15.5cm. So by adding 10cm you'd get 25.5cm, but more usually isn't a problem, is it? ;)
That is, if you use an integrated lead screw. Dunno about the other option. I can say though, that the integrated lead screw you get with buying this motor for example https://www.banggood.com/JKM-42-Linear-Stepper-Motor-Trapezoidal-Screw-320MM-0_32NM-p-933434.html?rmmds=myorder is definitely long enough, even if you added another 10cm of height. That's what I'm going to do some day as well.

Motors going to true direction but they are going to false direction to endstops. I tried to change home -1 to home +1 but it came with error. Can any body help me? Thanks.

I also have this issue

Has anyone gotten a BLTouch probe to work with their Hypercube? I bought one, but I can't seem to get it to work as an endstop. It lights up, but doesn't seem to want to send a signal saying its triggered. Maybe my config file is messed up, but I followed the instructions on their website. Thanks guys!

Would there be any benefits of using .9 degrees stepper motor for hypercube?

Isn't 135mm 2020 extrusion part to short?

Its the right length for hypercube with a 200x200mm build plate. For between the two bed extrusions.

Look at the newer build log videos, or simply at the newer screenshots (3rd-7th). Tech2c changed the extrusions for mounting the heatbed in the process, so that it holds the bed better (and doesn't wobble as much). The 135mm is perfectly accurate.

Hey all - I'm really only getting around 15cm height on the Z axis - any suggestions? I thought it would be 20cm? I guess it must be the KM NEMA17 42 Linear Stepper Motor with integrated Trapezoidal Screw

20x20x15.5cm print area. You're getting the height he put in the specs

I starting to order the parts to build one and have a question:

  • What about to upgrade to a Color version 3 or 4 Colors? Is possible to do? Anyone tried?

best regards.

I have a few questions on expanding your design. So I saw the note about expanding the frame and the rods, but what about belts and the z-screws. I am thinking about scaling this design up to a ridiculous scale. Like 600 x 600 x 600 scale. So if I were to do that I would need to have dual z-motors, and larger/multiple heated beds and power supplies. Just from a design standpoint, what do I need to do to build a HyperCube of this size? If you can help me at all that would be great, I am just concerned that the frame will be too big to be sturdy and do not want to start ordering stuff until I know that I can pull this off.


Taylor Dettling

Rather than using two Z axis steppers, it would probably be better to drive two or three lead screws with a single stepper. This link on the Reprap forum describes what I'm referring to: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,756640 (also check out the second page, the idea of using a worm gear on the Z axis to prevent the bed from dropping is brilliant).

You're probably going to have issues with the cantilever bed design that Tech2C uses if you go larger than his original dimensions. So, it is good that you're thinking about that already. Also, I would ditch the 8mm rods in favor of 12mm rods for Y and Z, and I would also use 10 or 12mm lead screws. Depending on what that does to your budget, you may find that linear guides are the better option. Either way you'll have to redesign some parts.

go reference the hypercube 300 its a remix of this to make it bigger

Are there any CAD files published for the parts?

I'm planning to build hypercube with z axis along x axis (left side and right side for dual z axis) and not on the back. can I use hypercube calculator to get my Aluminum profile lengths? and do I need to extend x axis profile?

Comments deleted.

Amazing machine, just finished building it!
However, I am getting problems related to so called arduino mega 8 bit ''speed wall''. As a solution I found a 32bit replacement for arduino mega, that fits in ramps 1.4. It is called ''Re-Arm board''. The only difference is that it runs on smoothieware and uses different cables for LCD.

I cant find aluminium tube and polymer bushings. Can carbon fiber tubes and self bearing bushings use together?

@alperenkadir58 That's what I've been using! Seems to work good enough for me.

I printed xy joinner for 8mm rods now :( what you think about 8mm carbon fiber and lm8uu polymer?

Don't do it. The LM8UU bearings will wear down the carbon fibre rods. If you use CF rods ANYWHERE you MUST use bearings like the listed IGUS bearings in the BOM.

I'm in the process of building this one, currently making a precise BOM as it will be a replacement to my Mendel90, so already have most of the things to buy.
As of now I have only printed 3mm filaments, and I still have some spools left, so I'd like to stay in 3mm filament configuration.
Is it easily doable? Do you know what best option I have for an extruder? There are a few 3mm bowden extruders on Thingi, but which one would fit this printer best?

Thank you!

Check Tech2C's compact bowden mount. Under the remixes there is at least one 3mm version, I haven't tried it but that might be a good place to start if you want to have a similar extruder to the one that Tech2C uses.

That said, I never had the same level of success with the compact bowden extruder that Tech2C has reported. I used the Tech2C compact bowden setup for about a year, and I just recently switched to a direct drive extruder (E3D Titan Aero with "pancake"/20mm stepper). I noticed an improvement in print quality and I can easily print flexible filaments now, which is difficult (but not impossible) to do with a bowden setup. It is worth noting that I had to spend some money to achieve that, but I think it was worth it. Just another perspective for your consideration!

Thank you, those are good ideas!
I did not know the e3D titan until now, this seems a great option for a direct drive (which i'd prefer over bowden...)! Is it light enough that I can still use the 10mm aluminium tubes or do I have to use smooth rods and LMxUU?
And as for the pancake motor that is sold by e3d as an option, does it have enough torque to extrude 3mm filaments?
I already have an e3d v6 so the investment would not be that excessive, around 70€ for a good extruder that seems to be lightweight and perform well.

Alternatively I'll take a look at the 3mm remixes.

How much would this cost? How much better is it compared to an Anet A8?

Depending on what you have around the shop, including tools, it could cost anywhere from 200 dollars in electronics and rods, to 500 dollars including tools and fasteners. This also depends on your area and access to potentially cheaper parts or extrusions.

i know this is not a HyperCube question
but i got a prusa-i3 clone the tronxy the problem is my left z-axis wants to go up
and my right z-axis wants to go down and i have already switch the z-axis cable around
and the problem remains what do i do

the only way is to switch the cable coils on the actual connector as the firmware option is not a solution as you have dual z rods type on google how to reverse motor direction nema 17 motor

thank you my left z-axis is working like it suppose to again thank you

(Maybe a noob question)

Hello there ! Im 90 % complete with this awesome setup, but I need some help :/

When I print the XY Clamp and XY Joiner on my Prusa clone Anet A8
it's like these parts become too big, for the LM8LUU and LM8UU bearings. Even though the bolts are tight, they can be pushed out of the joint.

Are they someone who has a suggestion for what it can be?
I have not had similar problems with this build.
For example, Z_Carriage and Z_Carriage_clamp fit very well with the bearings.


first thing I do is print a cube and measure the Z, next would be increase the extruder flow via a controller if possible, a little bit more plastic could be enough to get a grip... though you may need to drill bit the bolt holes . then the last nuke option!! get out the hotglue and put/push in a seal around the bearing and clamp.

my guess you slightly over on the Z axis something like 20.5 mm with a 20 mm cube which leaves a 1mm void with two halves to fill.

I´m considering to build a version with litle more Z axis, had have some questions about it, that I wanna ask help here, please.
To help me I draw a simulation on thinkercad befor cut the alluminum bars here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549889)

Considering choose a Z axis with 400mm, it´s correct that I need to consider to buy two of this 400mm?:

Another question is about Z motor (with integrated shaft) considering to use this 320mm:

Not sure if is enought, should I use the replace shaft video from Tech2C and install a new 400mm shaft, for exemple, this one?

Anyone can say how much final "Z" height piece I gonna have considering a 400mm Z printer? any Idea?

Any answer is welcome,

HyperCube 400mm Z (simulation)

The first line in the BOM says:
T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area.
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)

I think you want an extra 50mm travel on Z axis??
If so:

  • Increase the Z axis 2020 extrusions by 50mm - Total length 400mm.
  • Increase the Z axis rail by 50mm - Total length 400mm.
  • The integrated leadscrew stepper motor with 320mm shaft length will be long enough.

"I think you want an extra 50mm travel on Z axis??"
YES, tha´s it.

Thank´s for answer, gonna finish some orders on Bangood including theese parts that I was unsure about what measure to choose.

The bushings your using for the carbon fiber tubes. Are they 10mm in length? Also how many of them do you need to build with carbon fiber?

Thank you

The bushings are 10mm in length, and you need a minimum of four for the build. You can buy them with the link used in the BOM for the HyperCube, or directly off of Igus's website: http://www.igus.com/product/?artnr=JSM-1012-10

I bough the brass bushings because i didn't read the instructions carefully. Could i still use those instead of buying the Igus busgings?

If you're using carbon fiber tubes, I wouldn't use the brass bushings. I wouldn't use anything other than the Igus bushings on carbon fiber. If your using the aluminum tubes, then yes you can use the brass bushings.

Comments deleted.

Is it possible to repurpose parts from an Anet A8, electronics included, to make it?

Is it ok to use M5 10mm nut?

Im looking to sell my hypercube, it prints great, black 2020 extrusions. default build volume. Heated bed works, its overall a great printer. Give me a PM if youre interested.

Hallo Leute
Mein erster Drucker ist aus der Idee des Prusa I3 entstanden, als freier Nachbau. Mein zweiter Drucker wurde nach dem RepRap X400 gebaut. Dieser hat auch einen kompletten Rahmen aus 4 Kant Alu- Rohren und funktioniert eigentlich tadellos.
Nun hab ich meinen Prusa i3- Name JOII1- schon des öfteren umgebaut und verbessert. Er läuft jetzt wirklich sehr gut und zuverlässig. Er hat nur einen Fehler. Die Höhe eines Werkstückes kann nur 130 mm betragen. Das ist mir zu wenig.
So hab ich mich entschlossen meinen JOII1 in einen HYPER CUBE umzubauen und diesen auf ca 400 mm Höhe zu bauen.
Im Augenblick druckt mein JOII1 die Eckstücke für den ALU Rahmen des neuen Druckers. Seine Teile werden dann in den HC- namens FREDY eingesetzt.
Ich werde im Laufe der zeit einige Bilder einstellen.

Achtung, bei 400mm Bauhöhe zieht das Gestell vom Druckbett ziemlich an den Linearachsen... ich würde bei so einer Höhe direkt auf seitlich montierte Linearführungen (am besten Richtung MGN12 + MGN12H Gleitwagen, aber auch 10mm Achsen würden sicher funktionieren) mit einer(!) Traverse setzen, auf welcher dann das Druckbett montiert wird, z.b. mit zwei weiteren Extrusionen. Das ganze entweder mit zwei Motoren an den jeweils gegenüberliegenden Seiten der Traverse bewegt oder noch besser, ein Motor und über Zahnriemen.

Dann läuft das Druckbett auch wippfrei hoch und runter.

Ja da haben Sie auf jeden Fall recht, doch ich werde das Druckbett wieder so aufhängen wie ich es bei JOII2 , wie bei X400- gemacht habe,
mit 3 Schneckenachsen , eine hinten in der Mitte und je eine links und rechts Vorne. Somit ist der Zugriff auch frei , aber die Plattform, das Druckbett stabil.


I work many things in ABS and i put a question: the connected in plastic of plate hot is not problem with the link to plate if i use ABS plastic at 95° ?

No deformation !



Excuse me for my english

Bonjour André, j'ai également imprimé certains de mes designs en ABS, mais j'ai constaté que je devais utiliser un PSU de 24 V pour passer un MOSFET pour chauffer le lit. J'ai dû chauffer mon lit à 110 ° pour obtenir quoi que ce soit pour imprimer correctement. Je ne pouvais pas faire réchauffer le lit jusqu'à plus de 95 ° en utilisant le PSV 12V.
Si vous pouvez joindre l'imprimante, même partiellement, elle vous aidera également à imprimer l'ABS.

Regarde Sally

Excusez mon français, j'ai dû utiliser Google Translate.

Hi André, I have also printed some of my designs in ABS but I found that I had to use a 24V PSU switched through a MOSFET to heat the bed. I had to heat my bed to 110° to get anything to print properly. I could not get the bed to heat up to more than 95° using the 12V PSU.
If you can enclose the printer, even partially, it will also help you to print ABS.

Regards Sally

i think he asked about bed supports. If heated bed 95 degres and if bed supports are PLA what will happen?

Is it possible to hope for a mount for the Bl touch instead of the induction probe ?

There's this one here. No idea how good it is.


BL Touch Mount for hypercube

Question for anyone using the Ramps 1.4, I have 2 Z stepper motors, and when I plug one in, it works fine, but when I try to run both, nothing happens. Any ideas? Thanks guys!

Are you plugging them into a single controller or using a dual control approach? I'm using separate controllers which allows for bed leveling. However this means that Marlin needs to be configured.

If you are using a single controller you likely need to adjust the current to drive both motors.

Is there any problem to scale up to 300x300x400? Someone made it? The speed remains/precision remains good enough with just one z-axis motor?

There are many many remixes where people have up scaled the build volume, google hypercube 300mm

I'm looking at building a 400x400x400 based off this one. Though I have a question.. because of the size, should I have double lead screws? Can I get away with one? if I get 2 lead screws, will I need to change the bed extrusions? Am I correct in thinking my extrusions should be 540x 503y 595z with 485 bed and 335 bed? wanted to double check before I start buying things at the wrong size. I'm excited about this... Currently have an A8 and wanted to get a bigger print volume.

Reassurance question! : I just got the 1 meter red black 14AWG cable from Banggood, checking for what info I could find it dosen't look like this will be man enough for 30A ... I counted and it has over 200 strands, and it seems the higher the strand count the lower current rating it would have, but I don't see anyone complaining about it ... does it get warm in use?

The pack actually says 12 - 20 awg so its a bit vague is all

and while I am here - big thanks to Tech2C for publishing and all the hard work, actually gone for 3030 and two Z motors, put the whole printer together in blender and modified the parts to fit the 3030 where needed, only after did I find the many other remixes! still the journey has been so much fun so far - wish me luck :)

Whats the build volume with this final configuration? I know in the videos it changes a lot, just curious with this form?

The first line in the BOM says:

T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area.
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)

Ahh must've read right over that. Thanks can't wait to build one!

Comments deleted.

where is the spreadsheet and bom?

The main page says BOM in big bold letters...

Well, the BOM is in the description, but im working on a spreadsheet for a prusa i3 upgrade if that helps

I would like to build the Hypercube, but do not have a printer to print the parts. I looked online for 3D printing services, but all are expensive. Does anyone know any other places I can get the 3D printed parts?

I had the same issue. I got mine printed in blue ABS for ~$14 on https://www.3dhubs.com/. You just need to compare the prices.

That is a remarkable price for the entire HyperCube set!

I can do it cheaply, email me maxime_moquin@hotmail.com

I have a 3D printing business.

Is it possible to use all 10mm M5 Screws?

no it will bottom out, you need the 8mm

Get some washers ~2mm thick, and youre fine.

I guess the answer would be "It Depends."

If you use the normal corner brackets then no, as the 10mm ones will bottom out in the channel. If you look at the 2020 profile measurements you can quickly see what will fit once you add in the thickness of what ever is being attached to the extrusion.

What are the dimensions of the mounting holes for the X carriage? Wanting to design a Titan Aero mount while I wait for the rest of my parts to arrive.

I'm having an issue I cannot put my finger on
my printer is not as quiet is I hoped it to be
after tearing apart everything I've found the noise is coming from the the Y motor (the motor connected to the Y port on the ramps)
to test this, I've connected the extruder motor to this port (only this motor) - since it's vibrating, the whole chassis is vibrating, thus the noise.
same motor connected to the X port - silent

I've tried replacing the ramps, the driver, lower the voltage - nothing seems to solve the issue.

any ideas?

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Please delete your spam posts or I will report you to Banggood for spamming in this thread without permission.

I used 3/8" OD Aluminum tubing for the X axis... but there is too much flex. What are people using for larger builds?

Can I use drylin bearings instead of the LM8UU linear bearings ?

Yes, but you either need to find an adapter for the very thin ones (see here on Thingiverse),
or you need to buy the http://www.igus.eu/wpck/2297/drylin_r_rjum_02?C=DE&L=en which are 1:1 replacements for the LM8UU.
Just got mine yesterday and so far they work amazingly well!

Ah okay, so not the ones with IGUS J material. Hm, I tried those as well before, they aren't bad if installed well,
but that can potentially be a challenge. Since they are made a 100% out of plastic, their performance depends on
how hard you press it onto the linear shafts. That also means, if two in a row arent pressed equally hard, they can bind quickly.

It's just something to keep in mind, I've heard about many cases where they work perfectly fine. I'd probably just not use them in the Z-axis
since you got a force pulling them to the side instead of along the shaft, which could have the same effect.

Ok, well maybe I'll just use the regular LM8UU's I have and look into the ones you posted. Thanks.

Hi Tech2c, I'm building my hypercube and I think the build, as well as the whole design process you shared with all of us, was brilliant. I also am so happy that you conceived this machine with such a variety of uses in mind. Many, many thanks!!!

Do you think it would be a good idea to use toothed idlers in the back so you don't have to twist the belts? Or is it not really a problem?

Not using toothed idlers hasn't impacted my print quality or belt performance. There's been so many Hypercube's built without toothed idlers it's safe to assume it'll work fine either way.

I cant find the 8mm 300mm Carbon Steel Linear Rail Shaft Rod,.
The only options are " 8mm 100/200/285/320/350mm Carbon Steel Linear Rail Shaft Rod"

i know a Seller that can sell you precut hardened steel linear bearing rod
check out pd-tech that was the seller that i got my HyperCube t-slot frame kit
at a good price the Seller information is on ebay check them out.

The rod needs to be cut to length so just buy one that meets the minimum length.

Hiya, gonna finalize my corexy this weekend, An idea on a potential redesign for the x carriage is to use a 3mm acrylic sheet and make attachment fittings for it i.e. bearing adapter, the e3d clamp and other culprits of the x carriage; all peices would be attached using zip tyes.

The idea for this is to make it even lighterwould the subsequent adapter make it lighter?

i can not flash firmware to my arduino please help me

Hi, a bit late but finally did you flash your arduino?

I really like this design and ordered my parts today.
Its great you will get up to 11% on the Banggood Sale here:


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What should I do about the Micro Steppers for the motors. I saw you added them on the Ramps but you never mentioned them. Also, do the micro steppers come with the motors?

about how heavy is it?

Is it possible to search within the comments here? I'm looking for details on wiring in the power supply and inductive sensor.


CTRL+F is your friend. As all comments are shown below, you can just search the website with that ;)

Has anyone converted the stl files to work with 8020 Series 15 yet?

has any one noticed that the x carriage uploaded to the website is for 8mm bearings,

My 12OD10ID don't fit

The original X carriage was never intended to use bearings. It was designed to use Self Lubricating Bushing or for Carbon Fibre tubes Igus JSM-1012-10

Hi guys!
My radial fan makes a lot of noise while the carriage moves quickly... In fact, the propeller moves when the printer suddenly moves (for instance, while performing infill). The thing is I tried with 3 different fans and the same happens... Does anybody else face this behavior?

Great work on this Tech2c. I'm having fitment issues though. The LML bearing don't fit in the hole and the hole for the stepper motors are a little small. I'm printing the parts on an i3P printer. Any thoughts?

Edit: I'm a dummy and what I thought was the LML bearing carrier is for the dual IGUS bushings. So I think I'm good.

Hi there! I've built 2 of these and still haven't figured out where the Z_leadscrew_support_v1.1 goes. Everything works great but I feel like is a missing screw to the build :) Great job by the way!

I don't use that piece. It's supposed to support the Z axis leadscrew at the top of the frame, but in my testing it actually induces banding in Z axis. I left it here in case some folk wish to use it with better success than myself.

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how do i commission you to make the parts?

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The polymer bushings (IGUS) were glued inside the bushing_holder with which type of glue? Thank you.

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I think it's a problem with your endstop, either the logic is inverted in marlin or the wiring is wrong...

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Yep, I'm pretty sure it's a problem with your Z endstop...

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Try changing the logic in marlin. How is your endstop_inverting? It shall be set to true.

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If you check your endstop declaration in marlin, you'll see the logic for inverting or not the endstop output. It means, which value will you have once the endstop is triggered. For Z min and Z min probe the logic should be set as TRUE (inverted).

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Does the probe light come on if you lower the probe towards the bed manually (e.g. not in the bracket)?

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If everything is moving in the correct direction, just too far, I believe the answer is yes.

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I've not used ABL as yet so I have exhausted my limited knowledge at this point. If you don't get an answer here you might try over at http://forums.reprap.org/ as there are lots of experts over there willing to help.

Did you install the jumpers on your control board for the driver stepping? Did you set the drive current?

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There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to set the drive current for the steppers depending on which driver you are using. A quick search should provide the information needed.

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Did anyone else find that slicing the XY and Z motor mounts in S3D at 0.2mm layer heights left a missing layer at around layer 3 (as seen when prepare model for printing is done). The only way I could fix it was to use a layer height of 0.25. Any other suggestions?

Tech2C can you create XY_Joiner for 8mm rods. I know there are version available on Thingeverse but it would be nice if it were part of this repository, to always have the latest version. There are 8x12x30 bushings so it should be possible to update just XY_Joiner and create printer with 8mm rods for X axis.

There are 8mm versions in the remix section.

We use 10mm for X axis as we want to use a lighter rail, and to compensate for less strength in the lighter rail material we increase the diameter to 10mm.

I understand that but I already have Prusa i3 and I would like to build Hypercube form its parts. Later I will experiment with carbon and aluminum tubes.

Tech2C are source files of printer available somewhere?

I bought a 12864 LCD from Aliexpress. Is it normal, that display performance is slow compared to 2004 LCD? There is a kind of "fade in / fade out -effect" when I surf through menu's. Here is short video of it: https://streamable.com/o1l2i

I'm using Ramps 1.4 / Mega 2560 + Marlin 1.1.X.

Could be marlin - there was a known display lag issue in 1.1.0, not sure if it's been fixed yet

How do you have the system/display powered? If it's only via the USB then that may be the issue as mine had contrast issues during testing until I supplied 12V to the RAMPS and had enough current.

I'm using 12V / 30A power supply.

Why not mount the x & y motors at the back. The all 3 motors are on the same plane and you have shorter wires running to the motors and all the wiring is at the back?

then you'll be staring at belts at the front,, you can do it if you want

Was just wondering if vibration might be an issue due to all 3 motors being on the same plane. Looking at the belts might not be so great but it will simplify the wiring though.

how much does a set of HyperCube
3d Printed parts cost?

it really depends on your choice of parts between £240-300, if that too much at once break it down over a few months most key parts cost about £50 at a time, frame,,tronics,,rails" good quailty be the most expensive single layout, bits and bob..

ok but i talking about the Printed out parts how much do they cost?
not the whole printer.

I'll take a rough guess. I guess that the parts will take about 0.25 KG to print which is a quarter of a spool. If a spool costs $28, the parts would be about $7 to print.

so what your saying that it will cost $7 for the whole set?

For the plastic printed parts... they are the cheapest parts of the whole printer.

$7 for material if you print the parts. If you pay someone to print the parts for you, it is a lot more. I will guess that an individual might charge between $40 and $75 to print the parts for you. If you use a printing service it would be a lot more. Probably around $120. Have you tried pressing the "Print this Part" button on the Thingiverse page? I just tried it on a HyperCube XY Joiner with cap and the cost is $8.

how much do you charge?

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how much is your shipping rates?

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russell springs kentucky

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sir have you thou about my question

i can't do it this month but will next month on the 3rd
and that's $30 for the whole set and $10 for shipping correct?

I can print some parts for you cheaply. But very good.

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Sorry but I'm not interested in printing HyperCube parts. Check with Tech2C. He sometimes offers parts sets. You can also post on the HyperCube Group to see if someone there wants to print you a set.

The page load time is too "fast". Please more comments. :-)

Any idea to fix it?

Here ya go... :P

how much do you charge?

hello im having some of the worse banding with this printer and cant seem to fix it can anyone help ? skype: jarred elbert

sadly i cannot post a picture of my issue sorry

Is the banding pattern the same on any sized print? Banding is either mechanical to the axis (Z), or is uneven filament extrusion.

If the pattern is the same on any sized print, then it's mechanical. Ensure the bed moves freely by hand up and down, without sticking. Ensure the 8mm leadscrew can be turned by hand without sticking. Ensure the 8mm leadscrew is straight, and doesn't wobble with rotation. Unconstrain the leadscrew from the top if you have.

If the pattern is different on same sized prints, it's an extrusion issue. Ensure the hobbed gear (MK7) is concentric and not elliptical. Ensure the extrusion motor doesn't skip. Check for blocked nozzle. Try different filament.

Hey Guys, I built a 300x400x300 Hypercube frame a while ago, I ended up struggling with the firmware and lost my need for a huge printer so i decided to take it apart. It has had rail upgrades and comes with the Hotend, endstops, auto bed levelling sensor, fans, 240v heat bed and SSR for the heat bed but is just missing the rest of the electronics.. might pursue finishing it in the future but at the moment i have no need for two printers. If interested please contact me. Thanks John

Could you share all the marline files that worked for me?
I tried that marlin file. I could not get an GLCD image on one. I could not run auto bad on the other.

Edit the attached configuration.h file to match your LCD type. Auto-bed levelling needs to be enabled in the configuration.h file also.

I am having a lot of trouble with software.
The stepler does not stop even though the encoders are active. When I move in the x direction, the head moves on the y axis
The automatic fan is not active when the nozzle is heated.

Would you please share your full marlin software with all your trouble?

Thank you for the update of the X-Axis, it is indeed a nice evolution.
But strangely my induction sensor might be slighlty bigger than yours and doesn't fit in the new support (while it was ok in the previous one).

Try reducing the flow rate % on this part. I had the same thing when printed between orange PETG and grey PLA. Turns out my orange PETG has a larger diameter.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try this next time, as I drilled the part yesterday and it works just fine now :)

1.75mm or 3mm PTFE
im guessing 1.75

Anyone interested in buying a fully assembled and functional hypercube? PM me


the problem with axes aluminium is The premature wear of this metal.
The precision in the time is not sure.
Is it worth it ?



I used the steel bearing rods which means I have to run slower because of the extra mass. Aluminum works if you use anodized aluminum. You would be correct regarding plain aluminum but anodized aluminum has a thin layer of aluminum oxide which is an extremely hard material. As long as that hard layer is present, it makes a good bearing rod. You should also note that many have moved to carbon fiber tubes and that Tech2C made a video discussing all these issues.

I wonders what would be the pros and cons if i migrate my TEVO Tarantula into HyperCube.

Thank You.

Hey Guys, I built a 300x400x300 Hypercube frame a while ago, I ended up struggling with the firmware and lost my need for a huge printer so i decided to take it apart. It has had rail upgrades and comes with the Hotend, endstops, auto bed levelling sensor, fans, 240v heat bed and SSR for the heat bed but is just missing the rest of the electronics.. might pursue finishing it in the future but at the moment i have no need for two printers. If interested please contact me. Thanks John

I am interested if you still have it.

Yes Mate, still have it. hit me up on Private message if you would like to go further.

I PMed you John.

i really need help with this machine and have had tons of problems with layer quality ? if some one could please add me on skype so that i can figure this out that would help me out a ton

skype: Jarred Elbert

my pic is of my car subwofer

If you describe the problems you are having and can post some pics you'll likely get quite a bit of help.

I had some problem with the bed rails sagging a bit, so I created a slightly larger z carriage mount.


Z Carriage Mount for Hypercube

This is exactly what I came here to complain about, thanks!! My leveling gets ruined over time because of the tiny corner brackets, they lose their grip and they sag down (like 5mm!) occasionally i have to give them a good yank upwards to fix them.

I've been sourcing the parts for the HC over the last couple of months. It turned out, that getting the M5 and M3 screw locally was more difficult that I initially thought. Just got them in the mail (from China), and now I'm ready to begin building.

Already at assembling the frame I have a few questions:

  • In which order should I assemble it? (Top to bottom, XZ, YZ or XY first?)
  • How far from the table should the lower XY 2020 extrusions be?

If you have any tips on how to align the frame perfect the first time around, I would really appreciate it.

My recommendation is to assemble the left/right sides first and make sure they are square by measuring the diagonals. This approach provides you with a couple of reference points to work from. Even so, be prepared to loosen tighten things a couple of times once the entire frame is assembled to ensure that things are square on all 6 sides.

Just finished building.... my X axis goes in the right direction but my Y goes opposite, so when I home it goes in the totally wrong direction. How do i reverse only the Y?

Sounds like the stepper connection is backwards. As noted you can either flip the connector on the RAMPS board or change the direction in the configuration.h file.

Try changing connectors, put the actual X in Y and viceversa

Anybody knows which Aluminium extrusions I need? I have ordered the hammer nuts https://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M5-Hammer-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-p-1048442.html?rmmds=myorder

Will it fit for the item 20x20 nut5 or Nut 6 or for the bosch rexroth nut 6?

I figured from your response alone that you're from Germany xD Get some B-Typ Nut 6 ones, like from Dold-Mechatronik or Motedis for example, those definitely work (I got proof right next to me ;))

Yeah I am from Germany :D Thank you very much

Hi all,

I have been printing and tinkering for several months with the hypercube printer. I am impressed. I've made some small modifications and the last one I'm particularly happy with. I've printed the Z-carriages with PETG but noticed some flex with my heavy bed. (I have a PEI coated aluminium bed of 5 mm thick with a 600W keenovo silicone heater).

Yesterday I was making Acrylic plates for the cube (to increase the acceptance factor) and first I replaced the Z-carriages with SC8LUU bearings and small 2020 profiles. After some fiddling, my bed has become rock solid. I've yet to find out whether the print quality has increased, but my first impressions are positive.

I will post some pictures in my make (eelcor). One note is that you need to crank up the current for the z-axis as it becomes quite a heavy bed.

I've updated my make with a picture. It works like a charm!

What is the final cost if you don't reuse parts from a prusa i3? Looking into building this and was wondering. Also are the pieces listed here the final designs for the hypercube

Mine was $450. Every time this subject comes up someone claims that they built their HyperCube for $280. I think that it is possible but that you will end up with a lot of cheap troublesome components.

I built mine without parts from my old printer,as I needed that to print the cube parts.I guesstimate I spent about US$450-500.

how can i adapt this design to a 3030 profile? i don't get the 2020 locally here...

got my carbon fibre rods today and noticed a slight bend in them. The bend is maybe 1-1.5mm in the middle. Wondering if i can straighten these in some way or is its just okay to use em anyway?

Hi everyone! Quick question. Are the rods the same size as the 80/20 that correspond to them? So for example, if I make the x 500mm, does that mean the rods would be 500mm as well? Thanks!

You would typically order rods that are a bit longer than required and then cut to fit. When all is said and done, for the X axis, they will need to be about the spacing of the X axis plus twice the width of the extrusions. If your are using 2020 and the exterior dimension of the cube is 540mm then that's the max length of the rod to use.

So I bought the carbon fiber rods for the X carriage, and they were 500 mm (and i would like to try and keep them at 500 mm if that makes sense. So do you think the X axis 80/20 should be about 480mm?

It seems I remembered a bit incorrectly. So here goes.

I have a 300x300 build area (it can be slightly larger but not much) and my X rods are ~460mm. My X extrusions, which are 2020 profiles, are 440mm in length as is my Y dimension as I use dual lead screws for my Z. The overall X & Y widths are 480mm.

Working backwards, starting with 500mm X rods would yield a build width of about 340mm. If you are unsure I would recommend simply drawing it out on paper or computer based on your extrusion profiles as the math is really straightforward.

I wouldnt I aim for 10mm extra each side

Probably already been asked ..... on the Y-axis why did you not use the 2020 extrusion with rollers? Would give you some extra height

is any one else having problems with the mega 2560? i cant upload to it. i keep getting aavrdude: stk500v2 timeout error.

I keep getting the same error!

Try selecting "Arduino Mega ADK" instead of "Arduino Mega 2560". I had problems when I selected "Arduino Mega 2560" which were solved when I used ADK.

I was wrong. "Arduino Mega 2560" is correct for the latest software. I just did a fresh install and had to use 2560 not ADK.

Hello. I used the configuration you provided here. I dont use a probe for Z homing so I had to use a bit different settings. My problem is that X and Y move in the right direction just X is homing in the wrong direction. Could you tell me which option I need to change to correct this? Flipping wires and changing options I knew where working on the prusa i3 seem to be a bit different here.

Thank you for the great design!

Hi All, i am building a HyperCube with a bed of 300x300mm. Would there be any benefit to printing the parts for 10mm belts rather than the 6mm?

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Firmware matters, but not in relation to the voltage of the probe. Tech2C has a video on setting up the firmware with inductive probes that's very good. What matters is whether your probe is normally open or normally closed. I wouldn't count on an inductive probe working through glass. I've read where people use copper tape in the corners of the glass to make it work, but it will affect your build area. BLTouch or a microswitch is an alternative for glass. Just using a tinned heatbed, I've found masking tape wiped with isopropyl alcohol sticks extremely well with PLA (usually too well). I've heard good things about thin PEI sheets for other materials. The inductive sensor works with both these materials. There's also the PrintinZ build plate, but it's a little pricey. Personally, I rarely use auto bed leveling, but the Z offset is an awesome way to get that perfect first layer.

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I haven't had an issue with that, but I know others have. I don't normally go above 70C on my heatbed. I've had issues with overlapping tape affecting my first layer. I know some people use cast tool aluminum plate on top of their heater, although I have not seen that specifically with the Hypercube. If you're in the US, you can find 1/4" 8"x8" from midweststeelsupply for <$15 or you could check locally. I doubt that would bow, although I'm not sure what the weight of it would be or if it would cause more sag on the cantilever design.

I bought my ATP5 from Midwest (https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5) for my 300x300 bed and it's great. Takes longer to heat up due to the increased mass but once it reaches temp it's rock solid - and flat. Beats the heck out of the aluminum bed I was using and trying to deal with the warping. In my case I simply mounted the ATP5 on top of the existing bed and used 12x12 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape to bond them.