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The HIVE - Modular Hex Drawers

by O3D Aug 29, 2016
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Print with CR-10s orginal files, but the drawers and models are to tight to fit.
What is wrong?

Hi, did you read notes? He say you have to print drawer at 99% scale and body at 100% scale.

I printed this at a .3 layer height. Would that contribute to a very tight fit between pieces?

Hi!, I just printed three modules, but they are too tight, I can't put the together. I tried with a hammer but no luck. How can I increase the tolerance?
Printer: Craftbot Plus, ABS, Cura

I just had that same problem. I am going into a CAD program and I'm gonna try and redesign the way the modules connect

Would be nice if you share your results and upload them if you are successful!

I've been doing a few of these planning on doing the whole back of the work bench but is there any chance you could make a 2x/3x long version for pens and things and to act as feet on the bottom row

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You should be able to scale just the Z axis with your slicer, I use Simplify 3d, and it worked great I scaled a few boxes to 210% on the Z axis and they hold pencils. Make sure you scale a drawer the exact same amount too.

hello i though that the module will slide in each others so that they are all fixed together. I printed at 100% scale. That's not the case. Is it planned that the module shall be glued together?

I have the same problem

did you glue them together?

Tried to print the module, and a ghost layer appears exactly 2cm from the base.

me too with v5. At 2cm and 6cm from base.Curious bug from Cura.

so my solution for the extra layer that cura puts in is this.
print the outer shell at 100% which removes the unwanted layer and print the drawer at 98%. I don't notice the size differential and there are no issues with printing

Does anyone know what the dimensions are?

at its widest it is 85 mm and it is 75 mm deep

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When I print my drawer, the upper half (front and back wall) have an visible seam where the print transitioned from continuously printing all 4 sides to alternating between the two sides. I'm still new to this.... is there anything I can do with my settings to make that transition in the print seamless?

I'm having the same issue as a few people below me with the wall mounting bracket. Doesn't matter how I scale it the holes are too small and the lugs are too big. Any idea what could be going on? Thanks in advance.

Omg what have I done wrong. I cant even get these to interlock they are just so loose :/
The holes are too big :/
EDITED: sorry just realised I should add in how I printed them. I printed them on my ender 3 at 50mm/s at 0.16 layer height.
Is there a tighter version. it seems everyone was complaining earlier about them being tight. Id much prefer that then them being loose.

Are you using the module uploaded on 4/29 or an older version?

I was printed the newest version V5, and HIVE modules are really so loose. I Can unit them together when one module is next to other one without any resistance.

I was printed on Prusa MK3S

i have the same problem on mk3s

+1 For not fitting at all from the Prusa MK3S

I've had the same Issue, & I also use use a Prusa MK3S.

+1 for prusa mk3s

I have the same problem ... time yesterday, these layer errors appear on me. I think that Cura has a problem. The day before yesterday started to print the Warben. The first piece has no layer errors ....
When you open the G-code in Cura you see that the problem has to come from Cura

Try rotating the piece on cura, it took me a few tries so the layers don't appear

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I've got a weird thing happening. Cura is adding a layer randomly. It does it for all 3 items and there doesn't seem to be any reason for it.

I think I have the same issue with cura 4.0 and my CR-10s pro. I'm still a noob and didn't scrutinize the splicer results because I thought it was straight forward geometry. I ended up with a single solid layer of filament about 1.5 cm into the print. I was able to remove the printed layer after it printed. A bit of a PITA. Hopefully I can get a cleaner slice for the next print.

Update: I moved the model around in Cura until I found an x-y pos that sliced cleanly.

Same thing here. I'm using the "Qidi Print" version of Cura. I played with a bunch of variations in layer height and rotation and was able to print at 125% scale (so it can juuust fit under my monitor stacked two high), .2 layer height, 0 rotation. It's a weird glitch, one would think these splicers would love such easy and consistent layer geometry.

Just checked the size of the gcode file - 68MB! I'm guessing that's a bit large for Cura to handle?

What printer are you using, and what version of cure are you using?

Ender 3
Cura 4.0.0
The first object printed fine - no weird layers. The 2nd and 3rd objects, which were just the first, but copied twice, had the odd layers. The odd layers are visible in Cura after slicing. No idea why. Maybe Cura can't handle such a large slice?

rotate the model in cura a bit an it disappears

got a problem with tyhe wal mounting, seems the holes are to smal and the plugs to big, did you maybe switch the numbers? allready printed out 6full with drawers would be a settback if i cant hang it up xD (i will just have to make a way=))

Is it a coincidence that these work well as beer koozies?

maybe, but it's a nice one, cause if the print fails (cura adding a layer or two) then the part is still useful (until to scale it up to fit nicely under you monitor)

No amount of repositioning will get rid of the 2 solid layers I get in Cura. such a shame as I have a drawer printed. what a waste of plastic :(

I set the layer height at 0.3 and the artefact disappeared

I had the problem with the solid(s) layer(s). After move it severals time (more than 30 times). I found a correct position without the problem. I don't know if it'll help but it's :
x : 83.5374 mm
y : -84.0888 mm
z : 0

(I use Cura 3.6)

What does lower tolerance mean?

Thanks for the wonderful design, I am currently in print process. I scaled the boxes to 150%. I finished 4 already and the last 4 are in the works. I will post images as soon as I’m done. I love this design, I first was afraid that scaling it to 150% may spoil the fitting, but its perfect.

Thanks for the wonderful design, I am currently in print process. I scaled the boxes to 150%. I finished 4 already and the last 4 are in the works. I will post images as soon as I’m done. I love this design, I first was afraid that scaling it to 150% may spoil the fitting, but its perfect.

The watermark bs ruins everything... tried to reshape and its tied to the wireframe ends up warping the side... tried just saying screw it and maxing out my resolution... still got a blob... HATE THIS PRINT

Yea I had the same thing happen. The watermark on the bottom just turns into a blob and effs up the print.

I am printing the main module now, not a huge deal but I noticed in the cura slicer and now on my printer there seems to be 2 random layers one around 30% up and one around 60% into the print that fills in the whole model.

Not a huge issue as its one layer and I can just cut out out later, but it does waste a little plastic and dont seem to be needed.

I have added screen shots.

I have the same issue :-(

I had this too and tried various layer heights, sometimes there are two sometimes only one. But at 0.3 layer height they are gone, so if you can live with that, it might be an option
(slicer is Cura 3.60)

I tried slicing the module in Cura, and I did as suggested and moved it off center, and it still printed a solid layer about 1/3 of the way up. Any suggestions?

I wish I knew. I have the same issue (and I've also tried moving it off center).

I printed everything at original scale (100%) on a CR10S Pro. Sliced with the latest Simplify3D. Some parts printed with CCTree clear PLA and some with WYZ Works gray PLA. Everything fit fine at original scale. The hex slots on the outside fit together loosely, but when a tower of hex modules is built up, the extra tolerance helps a bit to make everything fit together.

For the knobs, I pre-drilled the holes with a drill bit of the same size as the posts coming off of the knobs. They just "snapped" into place after pre-drilling, so I didn't even feel the need to use glue.

The modules are fairly small, which is great for sorting and storing a bunch of small items. I will probably print some 200% scale to hold larger items.

Did the scaleup work? Do all the parts still fit nicely with a 200% scale?

For everyone who has problems getting a solid layer on cura. Move the object on the platform, the solid part with be gone. Don't know the reason, some kind of bug or something. Cheers!

Thanks! This helped me

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I am getting a solid layer about 1/3 on the drawer shell too, when slicing by Cura 3.5.1 as per other people. If it's not too much trouble please fix it. Thanks

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Very good design! But the nametag in the floor f*cks up my print everytime. Can you please upload a version without it? This would help so much!

Yep, same here, no matter how I tweek it the logo it just too small and detailed and the print screws up. Really gutted as was going to print a wall full of these. Any chance we could get a copy with no logo on the bottom, would gladly tip if I could get to print.

Scaled up z-axis to 150mm in Cura, printed perfectly. Tipped!

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Comments deleted.

Tried to print the module today.. about 1/4 the way in my printer tried to do a solid layer over the whole thing which lead to a failed print. Did this happen to anyone else?

The solid layer didn't fail my print, but it did show up.

Try to move the model away from the center, then look if the solid layer is gone. It worked for me for whatever reason.

I had the same problem when slicing in Cura, I tried slicing it again in Slic3r and didn't see the issue in the gcode (but haven't had time to try reprinting)

I have ad similar issues with Cura. I have two or three layers that Cura tries to slice as solid layers.

Same problem too with Cura. Suggest the designer try slicing with Cura. Easily reproducible.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Love this design. Has anyone tried scaling only in the Z-axis for longer drawers?

Hi, Thanks for designing this, I love the look!

That said, I'm having trouble printing the modules. I've printed three so far, and they don't lock together. The tabs are too small to lock into the slots. The only point of contact between the tabs and slots is the "elephant foot" of the first layer of the print (from where the first layer gets squished down onto the bed and spreads out a bit). I'm printing on a new Prusa i3 Mk.3, with PLA, at 100%, so the tolerances should be pretty tight. I didn't see the comment about printing at 102% until I had printed these, but as far as I can tell, that should only affect the ability of the drawers to slide into the modules, correct?

I've tried both the regular version and the less tolerance version, but I can't see any difference between them, even lining them up side-by-side. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

Same issue here.

I was having the same issue, and I am a beginner to 3D printing, but I found a way.

Equipments and Tools

  • Qidi X-One 2 3D Printer
  • Simplify3D for generating gcode from stl.
  • PLA 1.75 mm

Recommended Setup

Suggested Setup by the designer (O3D):

  • Print module at 102%
  • Print drawer at 100%
  • Shell Thickness: 1.2mm
  • Printing Temperature: 208C
  • Bed Temperature: 60C
  • Include Raft: yes
  • Resolution:150-250 microns
  • Infill: 5%

Extrusion Calibration

I've learned that it is important to calibrate your extruder. I have not done so yet, but I will be posting an update once I do that and if it ends up making a difference, specifically with respect to impacting the hive modules intersection.


I put the low tolerance version and the normal version and watched their behavior with my default settings in Simplify3D, nothing really changed. Of course, it's not as simple as I think. They might result in different behavior, but that also would depend on the process settings in Simplify3D. This video gave me a little bit more understanding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMWTK2ZgJCM


My default settings were: Primary extruder at 200C and Heated Bed at 60C.

I updated the primary extruder temperature to 208C based on recommendation.

Module Size

I noticed the 102% size is a bit big for the drawer, and the 100% causing noticeable friction.

I will be trying 101%.

Holes on top

The top of the module had some holes in it. My primary layer height setting was set to 0.1 mm, and so I am changing that to 0.2 mm for better thickness on the top.

Shell Thickness

Designer of this model recommends shell thickness of 1.2 mm. There is no setting for that in Simpify3D, but I think I finally understood what it means (or close to understanding).

Based on the post below, I learned about "wall thickness", and I am assuming it means the same thing. https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=10031

Right now, my default extrusion width is 0.48 mm and outline/perimeter shells = 2. So in theory, my wall thickness = 0.48 * 2 = 0.96.

To get closer to the 1.2 mm thickness, I am going to try two experiments:

Experiment 1

Model: Low tolerance
Scale: 101%
Top: 4 top solid layers, at a primary layer height of 0.2 mm
Wall Thickness: 0.48 (extrusion width) * 3 (perimeter shells) = 1.44 mm
Raft: yes

Result: Meh, nothing much changed. The raft got stuck at the bottom, maybe to the change in temperature I made.

Experiment 2

Same as experiment 1, except no raft, and different wall thickness.

Wall Thickness: 0.4 (extrusion width) * 3 (perimeter shells) = 1.2 mm

Result: Very happy with the result. For the most part, they connect together.

So im quiet new to cura and 3d printing in general and i was wondering how do i increase print module size?


I printed a module and drawer at .2mm. The module and drawer fit pretty well. I printed the module at 102% as recommended. I have also printed a wall mount at 102% and was unable to get the wall mount to slide onto the module. Do you have any suggestions? I am currently printing another wall mount at .1mm to see if the higher resolution will allow a better fit.

Will the next version have different sizes? I'd like to print different size containers but have the interlocking system still work together. You could then use this for books, or what I plan is a storage system for things to charge for my kids - ipods, switch, tablets, extra power adapters, etc.

I already tried to make larger modules that still interlock with the original ones. It was difficult and interlocked in weird ways so I scrapped it.

Can you scale the drawers 98%? I already printed 2 modules at 100% and only one drawer, so I don't want to reprint 2 large modules...

A little late for you, but I did my drawers at 98.4% and it worked. I may have been ok at 99%.

Hi, why isn't the tolerance loose enough so you dont hafta scale it?

They are loose enough but hexagons aren't always printed accurately between different machines. My Ender 2 has no issue printing without scaling. I need to scale down when printing on my m508 because vibrations affect the dimensional accuracy. It's best to reduce it by 1% so you don't waste time and filament.

Btw, these print faster for me than your Interlocking Modular Drawers 2.0.

I printed 2 modules each already and 1 drawer at 100% and they didn't fit. I printed a module at 98% and it fit. :l

What are the exact dimensions of the drawers? I was thinking of trying to make some "fun" drawers (hidden compartments, etc.) but I'm not sure how big they should be.

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I printed out 4 of these with drawers. They were too tight, and I used a hammer to put them together. I also had to drill out the holes to get the knobs to fit.
It looks great, and is useful for sure, just wish I could re-position the drawers.

Your printer needs to be calibrated. The tolerance for the knob holes is 0.3mm and the tolerance for the rails/slots is 0.8mm. A well calibrated printer should be able to handle 0.2mm tolerances.

I have the same problem, what you mean by tolerance? and which calibration are you referring? bed leveling ? extruder?

i think the wall mount bracket needs to be changed i printed several of them and i had to uses a hammer to fit to the Modules the tolerance is too close and i did increase the % to 102 like the modules

Printed half a dozen of these with the label drawers in white and blue. This design is fantastic. I increased the size by 25% to get a bit more room for larger objects.

printed perfectly on my up mini 2, the drawers are nice and tight and take just enough force to pull out that you don't have to worry about it falling out if you hold it upside down, and not too tight that I'm afraid it could break. Great job! Keep up the great work!

I love your solution to unauthorized sales of this design! :-D

Eagerly awaiting the new HIVE 2.0.

It could be a week or two. The modules are finished. I need to finish printing the drawers. I don't have a lot of free time at the moment.

Understandable. Any progress?

The mesh for the module is really broken. When I slice in Cura it shows several gaps and messed up vertices. I tried cleaning up in MeshLab but no luck.

I printed the module and it filled middle with very thin layer. It happened in 3 different spots. I tried to remove them, now I have rough spots inside of the module and without extensive sanding, I don't think the drawer will slide nicely. I am using Cura and I am pretty new at 3d printing. I am wondering what setting I need to change. Any help would be much appreciated.

I had that in the module. You need to add the "union overlapping volumes" option into the settings and turn it off. Removed it from the module. Doesn't seem to work on the drawer though. Still trying to figure out how to get rid of it

I just had the same thing happen to me. Printed out 2 modules at one time and got a high layer in one and a low layer in the other. This happened in Cura version 3.2.1.

I am experiencing this as well...
Cant seem to get a smooth model, if I rotate slightly the layers in the middle that aren't supposed to be there go away but I have entire layers that wont print the outer shell.
What version of Cura are you using by the way?

I am using 3.1.0.

Question - is there any reason why the HIVE_module_v4.stl file has more than 300.000 triangles? It doesn't look like a complicated shape and it makes some printers choke and reject the print...

Hello. Great product. I have now printed 2 pieces on 102%. They do not fit together. So the 3 brackets on the sides. They do not hold. Did I do something wrong? I mean the side brackets on the module. They do not stick together.

I have the same issue. Printed two Hive modules V4, but the connection between the modules does not hold (the slots are too wide?).

The slots are wide because I got a lot of feed back saying they were too tight a fit. Try lowering the quality. 80mm/s at 0.35-0.4 mm layer height. I have a HIVE 2.0 with a better interlocking system almost ready to upload. I will send you a link when I publish it.

I'm afraid we do not get an answer.

The rails are 1mm smaller than the slots so you need to calibrate your printer. Higher print speeds can also affect the fit. I have a HIVE 2.0 almost ready to release. It has a better interlocking system that works with higher speeds. It could be a week or two before I upload it.

EDIT: Please clarify what you mean by they don't hold. Are they too tight or too loose? Normally I hear they're too tight but I haven't heard too loose before. If they're too loose try printing at 80-90mm/s. Lower the quality to 350-400 micron as well.

what do you recommend for too tight? I have printed 4 of these and none of them go together I am printing at .2mm and 60mm/s are they supposed to slide together or snap together? also I dont see the calibration print file you have mentioned in other comments?

I got rid of the test because it was no longer needed. They should not be too tight, the rails are 1mm smaller than the slots. Print a calibration cube and measure it. You may need to re-calibrate your printer. They slide together not snap.

They are too loose for me as well. printing at 0.2 layer height, tried higher and lowers speeds, but they just fall apart. They do not fit. Since the rails are 1 mm smaller, it's a lot of space (and since my printer is well calibrated) for hexagons to move. If I have one on top of the other, I can simply remove the top one without even trying to slide it from another. That's how much space is there. And I cannot fix it, since Fusion doesn't want to translate mesh to BRep in this case. This thing was one of the initiators to buy 3D printer for me and I must say, after printing a LOT I finally found some time to print this and I'm quite disappointed by this design. Looks awesome, but failed for me, as I expected modules to fit nice and smooth. Adding a photo for you to actually see and maybe quick fix this, so others don't run in similar issues. As for negative comment, I really appreciate your work and love the design.

I uploaded a module with 0.5mm less tolerance. Hopefully that works for you, if not measure the gap with calipers and let me know how loose they are.

Dude, YOU are GOLDEN. So fast response. I'm amazed :) Thank you very much.

Hello, I am new to thingverse and 3D printing, so please excuse any naiveté in advance. This was the first item I printed. It was successful, but the know doesn't fit securely into the drawer. The two projections fit, but it's loose and simply falls out. Is this what it's supposed to be like? Are there further specifications for these objects beyond the "Thing Details" that would have extra information like if adhesive is used? Thank you kindly for your response and for the beautiful objects.

Glue the knob in place.

printed a few of the modules and the wall mounts won't fit on them what am I doing wrong, I have printed all of it at 100% and have had no problem making the parts fit together other than the mounts

Having this same issue, I've tried different materials scaling it a bit. Has anyone successfully gotten the wall mounts to work without sanding/filing/grinding? The grooves are too small and the pegs are too large so scaling does not work. scaling up to make the grooves work just increases the peg size even further and vice versa.

What i have done to mount it is start printing the hive module with around 15-20% infill and stop the print when it reaches 10-15mm then drill holes in the corners for nails or screws and use that as the mount make sure you put the side that is normally on the wall facing out so it looks nice, figured this out after i ran out of filament on a print and had shorter models (notice the parts printed in white), you could probably put larger drawers in the empty spots but i like it without, thank god for not having enough filament

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW, best storage EVER !!!!!!

Comments deleted.

Just for anyone wondering if you can scale these down, you cannot, at least not down to 85%. I did a test print of the "sleeves" and they seemed to fit ok. Printed them fully and they can barely be forced together, but good luck getting them apart.
Edit: Well damn, I just did a test print of the sleeves at 101% and they're way too tight too. I guess the tolerance is so low it's nearly an interference fit. I think the problem could be solved by making the hex ribs a little bit farther from the sleeve itself, because the only place where it's tight is where the walls meet.
Edit 2: I just decided to make my own. Remix here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2730483

Hive Hex Drawers looser tolerance

what is the insert for?

Hey! Love this design, trying to print this, but haven't a huge amount of experience.

Slic3r is having trouble printing the HIVE_Module.stl.

It's gets stuck at the "Processing Triangulated Mesh".

I've tried a couple different versions, and online search suggested a damaged stl file.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks for the great model! Would the modules alone work as a wine rack? I am thinking of combining the two functions.

They might. You would need to scale them and lengthen the modules.

What 3d designing software do people use to make these things?

I use Fusion 360 to create most of my models. It is free for students for 3 years.

I would use fusion 360 - its free and very powerful

What orientation should I make the drawer with attached knob?

Currently I am using a tree support with a raft
100 micron , as 80 micron is going to take to long
2 shellsiframe height="0" width="0" frameborder="0" src="https://goo.gl/iJiMSm"
basic infill 10% will try 0% on the next attempt
fill patten : hexagon
print speed 60mm/s
travel speed 80mm/s
220 degrees
yellow PLA

hey, it would be cool if there were a locking mechanism preventing the drawer from coming out of the module completely.. maybe something that can be printed as a separate piece that slots into the top front of the module which can be glued in once the drawer is attached, locking the drawer into the module? I would love to see this in action

Good idea, but I also like the fact that you can take out the drawer entirely, it is easier to pick up content with the drawer on your work table. Once you're done, just slide it in place.

Agree with this. I used some Sugru.

I guess maybe I am missing something but why would any of this need a raft? I read the info and it's mentioned that a raft is needed especially for the drawers, I just really do not see why that would help?

Keep the printing part from warping near edges or resizing. Any resizing of this at all will make drawers not fit. I printed in 8 different filaments to test. Every one, even those from the same manufacturer had different shrinkage amounts. The rafts do help minimize this.

I didn't use a raft and everything worked out just fine. I printed the hive at 102%.

I used a raft with the drawers because when I printed without a raft the bottom came out square-ish and I couldn't fit it into the module. I added a fillet to the bottom of the drawers so they should be fine to print without a raft.

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So I'm an idiot who just downloaded the files and started printing the modules without scaling up. So far the modules fit together beautifully! In the instructions it says to scale up to 102% so if I have 100% modules, I assume the scaling works the same in reverse? I can just scale the drawers down to 98%?

Thanks for the lovely design! I look forward to printing mountains of these.

Yes, 98% drawers work too

Do you have a version for 0.8 nozzle ? :D i mean optimized to be printed by a nozzle of 0.8mm.

I don't exactly know if it would be possible to print this at 0.8mm nozzle... the quality would be so low and the tolerances so bad that it would have to be up-scaled to even have a chance of working. I think 0.4, 0.5, and 0.6mm nozzles should work though.

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Ive wanted to print one of these and every single time I put the module into Cura, it won't load the amount of time it will take and stuff, so I can't save it onto my sd card. Also after a while Cura crashes. I've tried different things and I just don't know what to do, any suggestions?

I've seen it do this when the model is too big for the print bed. Try rotating or scaling down the model so it fits within the build volume. Can't go all the way to the edge in Cura, and it doesn't give a warning.

Maybe try a different slicer or reinstall Cura

Hey, your hive is great and I linked your model to my blog post!
Check it out!

I liked your post!

Awesome! In the future it may be necessary to make a drawer model with the divider AND the detached knob, though.

hey i have a small printer called the micro3D if i scale the Hive-model-v3 to 50% and the hive-drawer to 49% will this model work

What orientation would you need to do this without support for the knob?

Print the drawer with detached knob. You will need supports for the attached knobs

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Hi, I really like this design but I printed the Hive_Module_V3 and the Wall_mounting_bracket, both at 101.5% scale but it's totally impossible to connect the mount to the module, the holes on the mount are way too small and the connectors are way too big, even if I try to force they won't fit.
However, the fit test fits pretty well so I think the issue really comes from this specific part.

The solution to wall mount it could be to make a solid back version of the module with screw holes in it.

It would also be great to have drawers with 2 and/or 4 separators to store different small parts in a single drawer.

I'm having a problem with the wall mounts as well. The modules fit together beautifully at 102% but can't get the wall mounts to fit @ 102%.

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Here is an example of how I modified your module to add a screw hole on the back : https://www.dropbox.com/s/cgh8xzwrlc2jq3d/module_screw_101.5.stl?dl=0

This module is already scaled at 101.5% to fit all the other modules I printed so far but you can easily do that with your source file I guess.

And here is what I actually printed.
I designed the back part and printed it all together with one of your module, the result is great !


Awesome dude!

Hey, looks great! Would you mind uploading it as a remix?

Done, you can find it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2358670

The HIVE - Module with wall mount back
by atu


Is the newest model ready to print as-is or is scaling and printer settings still need to be tweaked?

I left it as is and uploaded the test so people can tune their print settings as fit between the rails can vary between different printers. I recommend printing the module at 101-102% and leave the drawers at 100%

when you say print at 101-102% I assume you mean scale? Just checking! Looks awesome, will be printing some up this weekend.

I mean scale. The drawer won't fit in the module as is. One or the other needs to be scaled up 1-2%

So if you put the module at 100%, would putting the drawer at 98% be ok since the module would still be larger by 1-2%?

Hi there!
Can someone make a hive module or a test module (or both) with the back plate that are not hollowed so I can screw them on a wall?
I think I'd print it with 100% infill, make 4 to 6 of them, and put a couple of screws on it. Once assemblet to the rest of it, it may look neat!

I'll make wall mounts this weekend

Any news on this topic?

I uploaded the bracket. Let me know if there are any issues or improvements that can be made

Hi! The fit is super tight, i had to hammer the pieces together, but it went fine.
Could you also make a variant of the drawer fit test with screw holes, so for large wall panels, it's also possible to place screws anywhere, and not only on the borders?

thanks a lot.

Did you scale the bracket up the same as with the module? If so, I can go back and remove some material when I get back home. Can you expand on what you mean by screws anywhere? I chose not to add screw holes into the module since I would have to extend the module and add a rim so the drawers don't rest on the screws. That would require support material.

Scale was the same : stock.
I don't mean screw holes in the module, but in a back plate similar to the test object. What do you think?

Ok, if you scale it up 101%-102% it will fit nicely. So for the thing you want me to make, are you talking about a plate that the module fits onto without interlocking?

I simply imagine it as your drawer_fit_test.stl, but solid with a hole in the middle. What do you think of this?

Ok, so essentially a hexagon panel that mounts to the wall and the modules can interlock on all six sides. I can do that.

Sorry I was going to do it over the weekend but I went on a last minute whitewater rafting trip. I'll make and upload by the end of the week

If I were to sell this just for the price that it costs to make how much would you guys think I should ask for? My friend wants me to print it for him so I don't need to make any sort of profit. Also it would be unethical as it's not my design :-)

Hi Rahiel,
I am fine with people selling printed models just not the model files. For pricing: divide grams used by total grams on the spool then multiply by price of the spool. For example, the module is 69g and the drawer is 38g. ((69+38)/750)$37 = $4.41
I am fine with small orders, just as long as people don't try selling it as their own product

Of course I can imagine you put a lot of work into this so it would be immoral to sell it. Thanks for your reply I'll work out the cost after buying the white and orange filaments.

If i were to construct a wall of these for near permanent storage of cables, tools, pencils and such
, would it be safe enough to hold that weight on the bottom with its structure as real hexacombs would? (assuming i used strong and quality abs)

It definitely would. The hive module itself is essentially two arches mirrored on an axis. In a honeycomb structure, the force of weight will distribute nicely throughout the structure. You could get away with PLA but I think ABS would be best depending on how much weight you intend it to hold

For everyone having issues with HIVE_Module_V3 not slicing in cura:

You need to remesh the object. I used Autodesk Meshmixer for this.

Using Autodesk Meshmixer:

Import the file
Select "Edit" from the left hand side
select "Make Solid"
I used a Mesh count of about 128

Be careful with remeshing too much, each time you do, if you're not careful, you can and will degrade the quality of the model.

Another option would be to open it up in a 3d modeling CAD software like fusion360. change it from a mesh to a body from there and then changing it back to a mesh.

I think the issue with cura might be that there's a really high mesh count of the object.

Anyone else have problems slicing in cura? I made a module but it added a fine layer in the middle of the module I had to cut out. Printed it without support. Not really sure how they printer even laid down this layer as it's floating in mid air with no supports.
Anyone found something like this or a solution?

It's like it's adding a single layer "raft" in the middle of the module. It changes the height of the "raft" depending on the scale of the model.

Mine has two of these, just strings tough because there is no support to squish the filament against. I tried different settings but can't get rid of them. Using cura 3.1.0

To anyone having this same frustrating problem, try enabling mesh fixes and un-select "union overlapping volumes", it looks thus far like that fixed the issue.

Thanks for posting your solution! This has saved the day!

Cant print using cura, it tries to make a "plan" a few layers up. Idk why. In "solid" view everything looks OK but in layer you can see the problem..

That's weird, I use Cura and printed a module earlier today without issue. I have another one printing right now. Maybe it has something to do with wall thickness. I generally print with 1.2mm walls and 5% infill.

I printed two of the "drawer fit test" file at 102%.

fitting them together from any side, I can see a problem. I can snap the 3 attaching hex without even having to "slide" them in, there's too much tolerance.

not sure if I'm doing something wrong here, still rather new to this game. Using a prusa i3 mk2, I printed this at 0.2mm using slic3r prusa edition slicer.

any help would be appreciated.

The test piece is so you can calibrate your printer to the modules. The tolerances are low because others were complaining that the rails were too tight. If you lower the print quality settings and increase print speed, the rails will interlock and the modules will print faster. I hope this helps.

When i scale the module to 102% in cura and move it on the bed, there are some unexplainable lines. Just somwhere in the part.
Someone else had the same problem?

I can't print the module vertically, and I'd rather have a 10 hour print than a 26 hour print, any ideas?

I'm trying to download this as a x3g for my replicator 2 and it can't download it. I've tried plugging straight into the printer to no avail. Hopefully someone could help me.

Anyone know how I set to 102% on simplify3d?

double click on the part when on the buildplate and then the part menu pops up and you can scale from there. hope this helps.

So far I've printed 8 of these out, with PLA, NGEN, and wood PLA, and varying depths on a MP i3 v2.1. I've printed them at .3 mm, with a .4 nozzle, no raffts or brims, 10% infill, and 2 shells with hairspray/glass on the bed. I print the drawers in the same manner, but at 98% size. Everything interlocks very solidly, including the different modules made from different plastics. I use Simplify3D to slice. It takes about 7 hrs for me to print a 5 inch deep module, (which is larger than the default size). I'm going to print a wall of these things, place them on my workdesk, and upload a picture of it when I'm done. Yes, that's a lot of plastic, but I need something to print and these are fun.

Folks, there's a reason the drawer fit test is included. Print it out a few times, with your extrusion set differently, until you get a good fit. If you don't get a successful print, it's because your printer isn't set up correctly, and/or you don't understand the various print settings well enough to engage a successful print. No, I'm not sorry.

These are easily some of the coolest bins on thingiverse.

Glad to hear you've had great success! You are correct, I included the test print so people can optimize their settings before printing the full module.

A really nice design, but I gave up printing it: The interlocks are too loose and therefore the drawers will simply NOT stay together.
printed on Original Prusa I2 MK2 @0.2mm 0.4mm nozzle

perhaps I'll try again when a future improvement is available

Has anyone changed the dimensions of these drawers yet? I want to make them deeper. I'm thinking I could just adjust the z axis (say +15-20mm) for the module and the y axis the same amount for the drawers in the slicer. Keeping everything else the same, would this work?

For some reason the module v3 won't slice in my older version of cura at all. All the other pieces slice but the module doesn't even attempt to slice. Anyone else have this problem?

I had this problem too. Cura 15 just hangs

Hello, I have the same problem. I noticed, if you set the module v3 90° horizontal, it slices. But i don't think it's the best angle to print.

I've printed the modules but they're very loose, there's far too big a gap between the lobes for them to connect (for example you wouldn't be able to have overhanging connections like in the picture above), they'd just drop out. I understand you have designed for a fast print but that's shouldn't affect dimensions, are you 100% your printer is calibrated? (have you measured an xyz cube?)

As for my comment about protecting the design I wasn't querying the use of text, it's the fact that you put the writing on the same layers 3 times which took retractions for those layers from about 5 per layer to about 10-15 times that amount. This is a little excessive over about 15 layers and adds uneccessary risk and wear to the print (retractions are often where prints fail for people), usually we try to reduce retractions for people, 1 piece of text would have been enough. I was trying to be constructive.

Do you have plans to make the connecting lobes tighter?

I understood you were being constructive. My printer is calibrated. Fast settings, on my printer, affects the dimensions very slightly but enough to affect the fit and movement of the rails in the slots. I'm starting to think this design is going to vary from printer to printer. For some it is too tight or too loose and for others and myself it is just right. I'll see what I can do, hopefully I can make a sort of "Goldilocks" module that is just right for every printer. For now, I will leave the V3 module up since it is working for others.

Should you print the drawes or the modules at 102%?

Print the modules at 102% not the drawers

I'm printing this now, prints ok but did you really need to emboss your name in it 3 times? Creates a bucket load of extras retractions (and additional print time).

Other than that the new v3 appears to be well designed and prints nicely on an UM2+

I embossed my name to prevent people from trying to sell my design on ebay or elsewhere. It only added 8 minutes to my print time.

I mean yay for you but this design wouldn't be that hard to replicate and make. Not only that but for the person thats going to steal designs I am sure they have gotten pretty dam good at removing peoples names from the items. Its a useless feature to prevent it. Not only that I dont even think you could get a copy write on that design as its not really a new design other then being 3d printed. I doubt the CC would hold up in court on a "design" thats not new or anything, aside from being hexagonal.

  1. I am getting patents for this design.
  2. Most people are too lazy to steal a design that has been embossed. They often will not replicate it themselves.
  3. Although simple in nature it is unique, you can't find another design like this on Thingiverse (that wasn't a derivative) or on the market.
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I have a problem when I try to delete the HIVE_Module_V3 from slic3r, it crashes the slic3r. Can you help me?

That is an interesting problem. I use Cura. Hopefully someone else can help you.

Just printed 3 of these. I love the clever design. Only thing is, the modules interlock a bit loosely, there's hardly any friction or "tightness" between the hexagonal ribs and the grooves they slide into. Is there any way to make them fit slightly tighter?

Also, curious to see what people's build times are. I'm using PLA on a Flashforge Dreamer, medium quality settings. Took about 6 hours for the module and about 3 hours for the drawer.

3.5 hours or so, with a FF creator pro clone for the module. 50 minutes for the label drawer. 0.3mm layer height. PLA. Don't need these things to look fancy - just need 'em to hold my stuff. Didn't need to scale them at all - they work perfectly for me as is, just they're loose. Since I'll be using superglue to stick 'em together, it's not an issue for me. The freaking name on 'em is a bit annoying, especially since it makes the INSERTS NOT FIT until you take a knife and trim them off. sigh

Hi, thanks! I designed them to be printed on lower quality faster print settings to compensate for expansion of material and other defects. Your printer is much faster than mine. It took me over 10 hours for the module and 5 for the drawers.

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Hey! super excited to see an updated hive module ( printed off a set the other day and saw a crucial issue with the grooves not going all the way to the bottom). upon slicing the new version it appears there's no wall connecting the sides where its recessed? here's a picture for reference http://imgur.com/a/9Zd1R

edit: still going through with the print. I can see its still connected at the base :)

I'm having the same problem. I'm now printing the hive modules, and the thin walls connecting the grooves aren't being printed, I checked layer view in Cura, and they weren't sliced. Here's a photo of the print https://goo.gl/photos/NAL5gFjeE5Jr2Bq39

I uploaded the new module with thickened walls last night. The walls are 1.5mm thicker now. I have the module printing next to me and it is printing with the walls. Don't forget to print at 102% in order for the drawer to fit (I did a test to ensure correct sizing before printing full module).

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Hmm, what slicer is that? I use a modified version of Cura and haven't seen that issue. When I printed the walls were still there. Thanks for bringing this to my attention! I can play around a little more with the design to increase the thickness of the wall.

yeah, these are a no go lol.

Ok, I'll thicken up the walls

Simplify3d. Like I said, it's still connected at the bottom, I'm printing a batch of them now. I'll let you know in the morning how they turned out.

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Hi, I really like this design!! I originally printed two modules at 100% scale, and two perimeters. The modules would not connect to each other (the rails did not fit in the slots). I've seen in the comments that printing at %125 - %150 will help with the fit. My question is now many perimeters I should be using, and if it will affect the fit for the rails.

i.e. if I print this at %130 scale should I have one or two (or more??) perimeters to get a better fit?

Hi, thanks! I'm currently working on the rails and slots right now. I actually have a new test printing away next to me. I'm close to having them slide nicely on fast print settings. Watch this design, I will have an update in the next few days with better modules. The drawers so far print nicely and without supports (except for the ones with the knob already attached).

Just checking in... The January 5th update is just perfect for the modules, I'm printing a 4th one now (all at 102%). The drawers with the removable knobs work out better for me as well, as the drawer plus knob models seem to end up with a small hole on the top side of the narrow part of the knob.

Love the design, and thanks for the updates!

Glad to hear! I'm surprised about the slight defect. For me the only defect was white lines made by the supports which is why I made the detached knob version.

I really like this design! I printed HIVE_Test_V3.stl twice. I connected two peaces together but can't connect third one. It looks like it's impossible physically (for models with floating sliders). Anyone connect more then two peaces together?

Thanks! I am making some touch ups to the module. Now that I have a printer I am able to test myself. I tested yesterday and the sliders fit more nicely but I need to fix one of the fillets and probably remove a little more material. I'll have an update in the next few days.

Hey, so is this not functional or can I print a version of this and expect it to work?

It is functional and the drawers fit inside nicely. The rails are a bit tricky though. I am working on making them more consistent on fast print. Watch this design, there will be an update in the next few days with better modules. If you need it quickly check out the remixes.

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If you want to print this at high speeds cus u don't wanna get bored waiting like me, you have to make an extra gcode file with the model slightly smaller if you want them to join together. (I have one at the original size and one at 95% and one at 105%.)

You should chamfer the bottom surface.

Most people will print with excessive squish on the first layer which will cause it to deform outwards.

Typically I use a .2mm chamfer against the bottom surface to counter this effect.

Optimally, this would be a slicer option, but until then we have to add it to the models.

With that done, I don't see a lot of point in floating the rails and forcing them to need supports.

Originally, I did not float the sliders. The only problem was that the modules could slide without constraint. Someone thought it would be a good idea to constrain the back side of the module and I did too. That's why the sliders are floating. I have uploaded a module without floating sliders (and with your .2mm chamfer on the bottom)

Ah OK. I thought it was because you didn't want to do the counter-chamfer.

I kind of redesigned my own version with a few changes. I wanted something at a smaller scale, so the locking hexagons kind of had to go. I replaced them with a slightly simpler rail.

I've been thinking a lot about the backside. I'm wondering if the base unit should go all the way through, and the backstops (including the backstops for the drawers) might be a separate unit. I want to have the option of putting adhesive fridge magnet type things on the back to hold the drawers in place, or optionally use really strong magnets on the back and hang an entire hive off a metal surface like a fridge or something.

Still baking on the idea.

Thanks for the design!

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Tried printing these on my Monoprice Maker Select V2,but I ran into an issue where the fit on the interlocking modules was too tight and I couldnt slot them together. Still haven't printed a drawer.

Did you scale the drawers up before printing? They won't interlock without scaling, up the tolerances are too critical. I recommend scaling up between 125-150% and printing two of the test_v2.stl first. The purpose of the test piece is to make sure the drawers will interlock before you try printing the full module. It is untested as of now but I'm actually getting the same printer later this month so I'll be more helpful then. If you run into problems please let me know and I will fix it asap.

I did not realize that, I'll try scaling up the test one & printing.

I noticed the drawers seem to be upside down (with the bottom up) in the models. Is that intentional? Should I flip them in my slicer program, or leave them as is and use supports?

P.S. I'm a relative noob at 3D printing but feel free to message me about the printer, I've been working mine in heavily. Biggest thing I've found is to run a PID autotune script. Took a minute & solved a bunch of my issues.

Make sure the concentric hexagon side is on the bottom. Print the V2 module; the original modules interlock but have a hard time staying together. You will need supports since the sliders overhang.

Did a test at 125%. Fit together better, but still wouldn't slide all the way. Theres also no way I'm getting these back apart.

Going to try 150% tonight.

Thanks for keeping me updated! Let me know how the 150% turns out. If you still have trouble just let me know and I'll see If I can make the tolerances less critical.
Edit: One last thing, If the sliders do not go all the way down you can sand them. The support material and any sagging could be the cause of them not fully sliding.

You put in the effort to make an awesome design, least I can do is collaborate to refine it :)

The test pieces fit together, but I dont know if it would work fu;; size, a little warping or other distortion and it would be very hard to slide these together that far. The sliders didn't go all the way down like you said, but I actually can't get them apart again to try sanding Also, the drawer is getting too large for me to have a whole hive of them on my desk. I would slightly reduce the size of the tabs, I'd rather have it easy to print/assemble than a super tight fit (and drawers are pretty stationary so a tight fit isn't so important). I can always add a dab of glue later.

Some other thoughts I've had:

  • Rather than sanding them down, remove a millimeter or so from the bottom of the tabs in the model.
  • Instead of the slots/tabs running the entire length of the print, just do a few MM at the front or back. That would reduce the chance of a tolerance issue and let you maintain something close to the tight fit you have
  • It might be useful to have a closed back on these. If you print it as a separate piece, you could do a custom logo in relief on the back. or even just in the center hex in the back.
  • You could make a label area on the front if the drawer. maybe even allow the label to be changed using thingiverse customizer.

Of course, these are just my crazy ideas. Feel free to ignore them

Thanks for sharing the cool model!

I made some changes to the module. The sliders have a 0.1 mm tolerance which worked for the original version. I shortened them a little to reduce sanding. I made one closed back module, a test print, a half-sized drawer, and a drawer with a spot for a label. The new designs have been uploaded.

Thanks, I value constructive criticism. You have some good thoughts, the first one I did for the original module and it worked. I'll play around with the model some more tonight and see what I can do.

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I love the concept but I'm having a hard time getting the modules to stay together. I tried the latest upload, they fit together but won't lock (there's not much of a lip at all)

I just got this Zortrax M200, here's what settings I used:

Filament profile: Z-HIPS, layer: 0.14mm, Infill: Max, Support: 20 degrees

The print looks clean, any suggestions?

Thanks for letting me know. I made a new module with a better lip. Play around with the test_v2.stl before printing the full modules. You may need to scale them up a little to make the tolerances less critical.

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I printed the draws and they don't seem to tessellate that well. Love the idea though

Try the new version of the module. I rounded the edges of the sliders and slots for easier sliding. The sliders are .1 mm smaller than the slots to account for expansion.

Printed one Module and one drawer. The drawer is significantly larger than it should be, it doesn't even come close to fitting, the drawer looks to be 2-3 mm too large in all directions. Thinking of scaling the drawer down as some else mentioned. Anyone know what a workable scale is? 98% for the drawer perhaps?

Printed on a QIDI Tech 1, module facing up (like a cup) and the drawer flat with the bottom down and handle sticking straight out facing forward, .2mm layers, PLA, supports on (for drawer handle). I'll grab the old calipers and do a little math and see if I can't get the drawer to fit.

Edit: I apologize, the module you printed was for a larger version I did not mean to upload. I have uploaded the correct size files.

Could you post your fusion 360 sources? I have some ideas on making it more printable I would like to try out.

I've been trying to figure out how to save my files to my computer but it looks like Fusion only saves to the cloud. I could export as .iges, .stp, .smt, or .sat but I'm not sure if those files can be edited.

You should have the option to export as .f3d, which is fusion's native format. STEP files are editable though.

Maybe someone who printed this before can help me with this. I printed the model at 125% size (so scaled in every direction to 125%). This should make margins less critical. However the models don't fit each other. I should note that I'm printing at a rather high printspeed because of the long printing times. I set horizontal size compensation to 0. It could possibly be my print speed or maybe my extrusion multiplier (now at 0.95). How do you guys cope with this, just printing extremely slow?

The module you printed was for a larger version I did not mean to uploaded. I just uploaded the correct size module. I apologize for the inconvenience.

Cool, no problem. So which of the stl's do I print?

I wonder if this is correct: When slicing with my default slic3r setup which is:

0.3mm layer height
50mm/s everything
2 Perimeters
2 Top layers
2 Bottom layers
.... the print time is an estimate of 3h 47mins for just one HIVE_module.

Is this correct?

Not sure if you solved this already, but you might be using support materials. Try flipping it upside down and not using supports!

Maybe someone else who has printed it might know. I don't own a printer yet so I couldn't tell you.

Hey, thanks for making these drawers!

I'm having a similar issue as others, in that the drawers are too snug to fit. I opened the model in SketchUp, but I'm not super great with modeling (I can use the tape measure though). I did notice some size discrepancies in the drawer vs the module.

Measuring the back of the drawer top to bottom (oriented with the opening facing down, knob pointed away):
left: ~64.95mm
middle: ~64.91
right: ~64.90
width: ~74.987

Hive module facing opening is all ~64.95 with a width of 75mm. This is accurate with what I got with calipers on the printed object, though my shaky hands can't measure so precisely. Seems like tolerances are still a bit tight (0-.05).

Files downloaded 9/19/16.

FYI printed at .35 and .20 (no total size difference that I could see), but could try all the way to .05. These were the Hex_Drawer_FIXED.stl and hive_module_FIXED.stl models I imported/printed using Slic3r with the stock Prusa i3 Mk2 settings.

(Also the combined model infills between the two objects, so they print fused together).

For others: You could likely print the drawer separately at 99.75% to achieve ~0.15-0.2mm tolerances on all sides. You could transform each plane individually to achieve a more perfect fit, but only if you REALLY like calculating stuff.

EDIT: 99.75% can't be done in Slic3r, it'd have to be imported/exported through SketchUp or similar.

Hey thanks for the information! Your measurements are correct. I gave the modules .15 mm and .2 mm tolerances and uploaded them.

Glad to help. I'll try reprinting tonight. Thanks!

It seems to me that it would be good to have the models rotated in order to print them directly. Also I'm concerned about how these will stack properly and still sit on a desk. Wont they slide out from under each other?

I'm not sure what you mean but the modules interlock so they should not slide out from under each other. About the placement, I made the models on the z-axis but my program seems to have saved them oriented on the x-axis.

I have now made 3 of the holders and 1 of the drawers. When stacked, they are not at all stable because any pressure from above (such as putting things in them. Causes the bottom containers to be pushed out. There is nothing holding the containers together. Also, you said further down that you updated the tolerances, but I am unable to get the drawer into the holder in the exact same way as the other user. Was this object printed out before being posted?

I'm really sorry about that. I'll fix the module today. Could you do me a favor and tell me your print settings? Material, fan, supports, rafts, resolution, etc? Also how much bigger the drawer is than the module. Is it within .1-.2 mm or so? I'll make the inside of the module larger to account for expansion/sagging of drawer. I'll also give it stronger tabs so they don't slide out from under each other. About printing before posting, no I have not had the opportunity. I've been trying to get it printed; however, the person in charge of the library 3D printer has either been ignoring my emails or just never checks his inbox. I plan on buying one soon though.

I printed your design too, I found printing the module at 101% size in cura made the drawers fit perfectly. PLA, no supports or rafts, 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3mm layers on an ultimaker 2.

You need more clearance for the stacking "tabs" too since they don't stack brilliantly, and some way of stopping them sliding forward and backward.

I don't like to be so critical since it's a brilliant idea, but it's let down by lack of testing.

Thanks for letting me know! The modules now have a 0.15 mm and 0.2 mm tolerance. Sliding between the modules has been limited too. I uploaded the new modules this morning. The tabs may be difficult to slide at first but that is by design. Friction between the modules help keep them in place and prevent unwanted sliding. A light sanding might help them slide a little better.

for some reason the drawers seem to be just a mm or 2 to tall, I printed off the draw with the 2 holes for the knob
edit: over all the drawer seems to be just a tad to big in all dimensions to even fit

Hey, thanks for letting me know. The drawers are fine but the module had a few sides that were 0.01 mm too big for some reason. I fixed the module and uploaded it.

Im printing a fixed version out now, ill keep you informed on whether or not this fixes the issue

Did the new module work for you?

I posted a made showing that the tolerances are way to tight and the drawer won't fit
Edit: atleast I thought I did

Ok, please post a make I'd like to see how they're not fitting and I'll fix it today or tomorrow.

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I wish the knob were a different design or another piece. It sticks out into space so I'm not sure it can be printed without support.

I uploaded a drawer with a separate knob. It will need to be glued in place after printing.

Cool thanks. I'm printing with support but of course that adds time and waste.

A separate draw / knob with a hole for a screw would be good too and simple.

Great idea, I uploaded a drawer and knob that use a gauge 3 wood screw. You'll need to use a small bolt and hex nut to secure it. I'll play around with the design, see if I can improve it if I need to.

Thanks for that. I was thinking a self threading screw that went through the drawer and into the knob from the back so it's hidden. Like a short #10 perhaps. Sheet metal screws self thread nicely through PLA IMHO.

will these stack with your previous design?

As of now no; however, I plan on making a piece that will allow my original design to stack with this one.