Racing bikes are one of the best modes of transport. But wet roads can be annoying: you'll get a fountain of water spraying upwards from the tyres. A storebought mudguard/fender is either ugly, heavy, impractical, or just unpersonal, so I wanted another solution.
Meet the Modular Mudguard!
Pick and mix the desired modules (see the STL Name Guide in the pictures) to compose your perfect layout. You'll never have to change clothes after a rainy commute again. If you have other module ideas or if you want any changes, look below for info on customized parts.
If you make one, please please share the results!
These parts are designed to be printed on their side. To make sure they wouldn't fall over, I printed a raft around the parts, but I think this isn't necessary. Support also is not necessary, unless your printer has trouble bridging. There is one exception: the coutout and bracket in the BracketCutout part need support material. The fit is loose; if you want them to snap together more firmly, consider adding 0,05 to 0,1mm all around (if your slicer can do this). However, you'll need to secure it more permanently to use it on your bicycle anyway.
- I bought stock mudguard bars that connect to the mudguard and frame. It wouldn't be too much issue to make them yourself, but you probably want to make sure it won't rattle when riding the bike.
- Since my bike doesn't have attachment loops on the frame, I also made my own simple connection brackets. They're customly dimensioned for my bike to the millimeter (11mm and 16mm); if anyone is interested in them, let me know and I'll publish them on Thingiverse as well.
Fixing the parts
There's many ways to do this.
- The easiest would be a superglue or (if using ABS) acetone.
- You can also drill small holes through the connection parts and use tiny bolts and nuts. This way, you can change to composition to your liking. However, make sure to use locknuts; everything will vibrate violently, and normal nuts will definitely come loose. Also consider using washers.
- Rivet together for that industrial look. Again, use washers to avoid destroying the plastic.
- Weld together by friction welding with filament & multitool (video will follow).
I used friction welding, because it's awesome, fast, and definitely permanent. I made a video that I will share shortly, to give an idea of the very simple process. Black isn't the best colour for friction welding due to the discolouration, but still. Try it!
The weight of the Neutral part is 16 grams (PLA, 20% infill, 0,8mm wall thickness).
Both end caps are about 8 grams, and the bracket parts are <20 grams. This means the front mudguard (6 modules) in my composition weighs about 80 grams, and the back mudguard (7 modules) weighs <100 grams. This does not include any nuts, bolts or bars.
This mudguard has been designed for a standard racing bike:
The width of the mudguard is 37mm. At my front fork, there wasn't space to mount the mudguard high enough to not hit the tyre, so that's why I had to create the cutout part.
Each section is exactly 20° of a full 360° circle, or 1/18th. The cap ends are 10°.
The distance from mudguard surface to the center axle of the hole:
- Bracket: 8,55mm
- BracketCutout: 13mm
- As you can see, I removed my hand brakes and switched to a coaster brake. I am not sure if the parts will fit with all brake pad compositions, but if you try it and it fails, let me know and I'll see if I can make a fitting design.
- The brackets are also custom designed for my own bike, so again, if they don't fit, let me know and I can see if I can easily adapt the model.
- I will not share the original CAD model, but I am usually really fast with requests, as long as you give me a good description!