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Snap-on Filament Filter/Oiler

by idig3d Jul 27, 2016
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I'd like to say how much I like this thing. I printed this when I first got my printer. Since then I have tried some fancier looking filament Filters, but they have all been problematic. I am currently printing another one of yours for my second 3d printer.




Pretty good part but lacking good 3D printing design practices.

The entire outer case design should have been designed thicker to make the part more robust and useful.

Do you think that stuffing paper towel into this would work as well as foam or sponge?

Also, is that foam or sponge inside the filament filter in the picture?

I would guess it is a sponge. I used a sponge.
You should use something that will not "break" into pieces. Towel maybe. Paper towel better not.
Think of all the fluff that would get stuck in the nozzle.

A sponge worked for me BUT I have read (on the internet) that you SHOULD NOT USE A FILAMENT OILER because the oil will leave particles in the nozzle that will eventually clog the nozzle.

I only use this without oil to get rid of dust particles that are clinging to the filament. I would recommend that.

Would a dish sponge work (cut down to size)?

I'm really glad with your filament filter thing I print it with your preview settings one by one and it looks like pretty

great fantastic nice work many thanks mate

Comments deleted.

hi I have found out an issue with the model, which is the clip might sometimes fail on its own and open up the filter. to avoid this problem, I have designed a clip to avoid that which I tested and works perfectly for me. please upload this model there and if you want you can give me credit for that btw it literally takes 1 minute to print. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907974

FilaClip, the filament filter clip

Thanks for this. I too printed this fine and the hinge is great, but the clip broke quickly.
Are you using oil? If so what kind and how much?

I printed this and it came out perfect. Then lost it, so tried printing another and the hinge will not bend once printed.

I changed my nozzle from 0.3mm to 0.5mm at some point (can't remember if before or after printing the first time), but printing at 0.2mm layer height and the coolest temperatures possible, it is fused together every time.

What could be the issue?

I would say that raising the retraction to as much as possible could possibly help.

Made it. Nice design. Really needed this.

Thanks for the excellent design. Worked nicely on M3D Micro in petg.

I have printed one with my Cr 10 in PLA.
Great Model, it works very good, the hinge is perfect printed.
Thank you very much for the Object.
Greentings from Germany

Hello Dear idig3d :)

i have an Ultimaker 3 Extended version (2.85mm filaments) I wish to use NinjaFlex who is hard to no get block on the Bowden and dont block too on the feeder etc... :/

For my case of ninjaflex and printer can you please tell me which of your 3 files i should print ?

can i print them in ABS ? in 0% infill and 0.2mm resolution too ?

for Ninjaflex (some of my print need like 12hours to finish) do i need to put more oil on the sponge ? the best oil stay the Rapeseed Oil ? or better result with WD40 oil ? or teflon oil for mountain bike gear ? or 3 in one oil ?

i have actualy the teflon oil for bike and sun oil seed in my kitchen ^^ but i can go to buy any of the others if they are better % to succed even 1% more ^^

thank you for your answer and this print ^^

Hey! Great model, worked perfect on my printer. Thanks!

Hinge is stuck. Destroyed my print trying to close the lid. lol

Hey I was going to try and add on a tube for my 3D printer but I can't edit the files I download since it is an STL file. Would you mind sending me the file (preferably as a dwg file) so I can edit it?
I would obviously make this as a remix and credit you but I was curious. Thank you for your time

hey another question: why should i not use a celluslose sponge?

I don't think it will collect dust as well. Other foam has more nooks and crannies. It may work in a pinch.

Ik am planning to use this but because ik have a tube doesn't that mean there will stay lubricant in it?
And is this going to be a problem if i use rubber or bronzeFill?

Some people add a drop of higher-temp oil (often canola or the like) to help PLA. But mostly, I use it to keep my dog's hair out of the extruder. Too much oil, or any depending on the filament type, could adversely affect layer bonding.

No more clicking extuder motor. This has fixed an issue with my filament binding up in the bowden tube. Instant improvement.

By Clicking do you mean like a Rubber Band sounding snap or like the Extruder Motor clicking? (The gear slipping)

Silly question, but what kind of oil are you using?

Not silly at all. Edible oil (to be safe) with the highest smoke point you can find. I'm currently using a refined sunflower oil. Looks like avocado oil would be best: https://jonbarron.org/diet-and-nutrition/healthiest-cooking-oil-chart-smoke-points

Thanks so much! I just started printing about 2 weeks ago, going on 3 weeks ago now. So much to learn! Looks like I will be picking up some oil. Thanks again for your reply!

No problem. Baby steps. Can seem overwhelming at times. Base layer is critical. Get your bed leveled. Print a couple skirts and manually dial (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915845) in your bed to make sure the skirt lines are even and printing well. Slow down to start. You can slowly up the speed until something breaks, later.

Base not sticking? My fav is cheap dollar store picture frame glass (or mirrors but make sure it's glass) on 0.5mm thermal pads (sticky but not adhesive) and a few light coats of Aquanet hairspray.

Layers crack/split easily? Up the temp. Possible lower the fan speed.
Hairy prints? Lower the temp.

Try to keep a few notes as you go. Change only one or two settings at a time.

"It's all about the base. No trouble."

Di3 Thumbwheel Bed Dial
by idig3d

Hah this is great! What do you use to attach the glass? I've seen office supply clips? Can you use the heated bed with that or turn the bed heat off?

I have been using purple glue stick when things don't stick. Works well.

Definitely going to print those dials. Thanks!

0.5mm thermal pads. (http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/)
They are tacky enough to hold the glass without clips. I used a 100x100mm sheet cut into ninths (3x3) and works well with my 800x800mm bed. Make sure you remove the protective layers from both sides.

Used blue tape when I started. Some brands really did not work.Went through glue sticks, but usually messier and not always even. Used generic hairspray before getting turned onto Aquanet. Love Aquanet on glass now. Been printing with ASA (all the good properties of ABS plus less smell, warping and UV-resistant). A hot bed and a few coats of Aquanet holds really well. Prints pop off when glass is cold. A bit more expensive, but to me, better 'ink'.

Not certain of your printer and if the dials will fit, but very handy if they do.

Glad I could be of some help. Building up karma points.

Great little design. Didn't even have to force the hinge on it to close the first time.

Great! Thanks for the feedback and the picture of the make.

Thanks. Oil ports on both side. Just seemed logical.

ive used a similar design and filament wipers are soooo nice especially on bowden drive machines where the filament friction is an issue. I have since lost mine but like how the oil port is built in!