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reddadsteve

Dilbert

by reddadsteve Jul 26, 2016
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BTW, you have extra dots in the filenames of tie_c and tie_f - they are "tie._c.stl" and "tie._f.stl"

Thanks, I'm a stickler for getting things right and I missed that. I've corrected the file names.

FYI, When I model, I save all my final iterations of each part as "xxxx.prt" in Blender. I then manually rename each part for uploading to Thingiverse.

Printing now. As an engineer with zero painting skills, I love designs that print in multiple parts/colours and slot together. I've just finished some Giant Lego Blues Brothers and can now see myself doing a whole load of your stuff.

I do some multipart designs myself (and also use the 1.75mm filament hole trick!) so I know how hard they are, and how long it takes, so many thanks.

Thank you and I hope you enjoy building my models. Don't forget to post your makes.

The interesting thing about separating the model into pieces by color is that you can easily paint each piece the appropriate color before gluing the model together, if you do not have all the filament needed. I have no painting skills but for one model (my Miner) I printed all the pieces in white and painted each piece the appropriate color. It was real easy and came out nice and clean.

As for the filament hole trick, due to the curve required for the tie many people simply glued the small pieces together without the filament as a thread. So use your judgement in putting the tie together.

Steve

I nearly always post makes as I know what a difference it makes to designers. Thanks for the paint tip and the advice regards the tie.

BTW, for filament holes, a 1.5mm allen key is 1.73mm from corner to corner so good for clearly holes if you don't have a 1.75mm dill.

Maker, Stas Pimenov, posted a wonderful stop action video showing the Dilbert model being built. Check out the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CP7RmlhvBQ0&feature=youtu.be

If anyone can translate the language in the video to English, I would appreciate it!

I really love this model and the others you have done. Printing this one now. A couple of observations/comments/suggestions.

First, in your assembly drawing, you have two right shoulders. Just a minor thing and probably better than having two left feet. :) (Oh wait - the shoes are the same so they could be two left ones).

If you are familiar with the Nutcracker design by MakerBot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:579567), they added a 'L' and 'R' to parts to signify left and right. After I got the parts off the bed, I dropped them and couldn't easily tell which shoulder and eye were which.

Adding holes, like you did with the tie, for connecting the arm/shoulder and other parts would help with alignment, gluing, and give a little extra strength to those joints.

Was looking at your other designs and see I have several of them on my ToDo list. Are you planning on doing an Alice and Dogbert?

Nutcracker

Thank you for taking the time to detail areas I can improve. I started modeling after building the Bold Machines models for the Margo series as well as the Nutcracker you mentioned. They are all brilliantly designed models by true modelers. I'm fairly new to designing and hopefully improving as I get experience.

For larger parts, the L/R is an excellent concept that I've seen but forgotten about. As long as the parts are large enough I will incorporate that in future work. For small parts, I agree that left/right shapes are not always clearly distinguishable enough. I guess that sometimes I get too familiar with my models pieces. Based on your feedback, as much as possible, I'll ensure L/R parts are more distinguishable by fit. A great deal of effort is put into ensuring that supports are not needed.

Wow! How could I have overlooked labeling two right_shoulders in the diagram. Good catch, I'll correct the diagram (the actual parts are correct).

I added the holes to the tie as an experiment due to the odd design. I use a tacky glue, E6000, which I highly recommend for putting these models together. The glue gets tacky very quickly which allows parts to hold together but takes at least two hours to dry. This allows plenty of time to ensure parts are positioned correctly and results in a very strong bond.

As for the rest of the Dilbert series, I need a break from Dilbert for now and will be turning my attention to another animated series. However, I will be posting a series of Dilbert quote signs that can be displayed with the three characters already created. Follow me to ensure you don't miss it.

Thank you again for all the feedback, it is very much appreciated.

Steve

I'm about halfway through with modeling the Pointy Haired Boss. Once the PHB is complete, I'm going to try and add famous Dilbert sayings that can hand behind the two figures, just like in the comic strip.

Steve

Sweeeeeet!!!! My super will be getting one. Very nice work on the Dilbert, and the rest of your designs. You, sir, have talent!

I really appreciate the kind words, but seeing postings of some makes would be even better!
Thank you,
Steve

Mine came out awesome! What a great model! Thanks!

Just finished Dilbert! Awesome model came out perfect. Thanks for this.

Glad you liked it. If you get a chance, please post a picture of your make in an office setting.

Having trouble printing the glasses. Maybe the arms should be a separate model and then glued together?

I've had problems with the glasses too. First time I printed them with the black tie pieces and had a major failure. Then tried printing them again by themselves but it just barely finished without it coming apart and it looked horrible. Third time I tried laying them down with supports but ended up with a bird's nest. Finally read these comments and am now trying again with the following changes: reduced shells from 3 down to 2, slowed the default speed down quite a bit, increased my z hop on retraction and now printing two so it has more time to cool. Doing this on a Fabrikator Mini. We'll see how it ends up. If this doesn't help then my next option is to print them with the pants which should give a lot more time for the layers to cool.

Sorry to hear about the printing problems. This sounds like an issue with small parts rather than the actual design. The most important things about printing small parts is bed adhesion and how the slicer determines shells and layers.
Does your slicer give you a visual representation of the model after slicing? This will help to define if the slicer is actually creating enough shells and layers.
Please do not hesitate to PM me if you still have issues and I'll work with you to get to the root of the problem.

Are you printing the glasses with 2 shells? Also what size nozzle do you have. I use a .4mm nozzle. It's possible that your slicer settings may need some tuning for small parts, what is the exact issue you have with the glasses?

What issue are you having with the arms. they are already separate pieces? Did you try printing with a brim or raft? Again it may be a tuning issue with your slicing profile for small parts. Everyone has different preferences. I used ABS and printed slowly, with a higher infill. I also use a cooling fan for small parts, even for ABS.

If you still think that it is a problem with the STL files, let me know. I want to ensure everyone enjoys these models.

Sorry I meant the arms of the glasses.

I'll try tweaking the settings for the glasses and print it again. I have been printing all the black parts at one time and the settings really weren't great for the tiny detail of the glasses. I will print them separately. I'll also need a z hop so the nozzle doesn't hit the arms of the glasses during rapids

Was curios and just tried to print the glasses.
Even with my .5 nozzles it comes out not so bad. I would be helpfull to print 2 or 3 glasses at the same time so the filament has a bit more time to cool down on the arms ...

Bernd, I assume that you are printing with PLA. With ABS I had no issue printing at my slow default settings two shells and my cooling fan active. I can only assume that you need more cooling, slower speed, or as you noted other objects on the plate to allow more cooling time.

I may need to rethink the glasses if other people are having issues. It should be noted that the side of the arms on the glasses touch Dilberts face and fit in the indentation. If the glasses are rough, it is hidden by the indentation.

Can you send me a private message with a picture of the glasses? It may help me make a better design.

Thanks my biggest issue was the nozzle hitting the arms of the glasses during rapid moves and keeping them on the bed (adding brim and z hop next time). I agree it's best to print many multiples of small objects for good cooling.

Awesome Job Thank-you for the detailed explanation

Thanks for Sharing

I appreciate your comment. Keep your eyes open for the 'pointy haired boss' next.

Steve