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Doinker - 82mm Inductrix-style Brushless Quad

by TheShortCrayon Aug 2, 2016
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Just made one V3. Amazing! One of the best whoop "knock offs" I found so far.

Any chance you could make arms to go between the motor mounts on the bottom in all directions to strengthen them? I get alot of flex on V3 with Nylon and PLA.

Could you be a bit more specific on what you're wanting?

Very nice model, I really like the look of the v3! What do you use to design your models?
I want to build a Doinker with the HGLRC XJB stack, which has M2 mounting holes. Can you add a version with smaller mounting holes?
Also, did you add any kind of soft-mounting for the FC?

Thanks! I've been using Solidworks.
I can post a v3 with the smaller holes. I'll try to look into that this evening but should be quick and easy.
I normally didn't use an soft mounting. Mileage may vary depending on the FC you're using though. Some need it more than others.

Thanks, looking forward to the M2-version! I guess I will just try it without soft mounting then and see how it goes.

Added the M2 FC screw version. Enjoy!

Already printed it, thank you! Now I have to wait for the rest of the components to arrive..

Can I use Lizard95 electronics in this?

I haven't tried it but the motors and component stack is the same so I'd expect it to fit.

Any chance there's a cam mount with guards for the TX03? Printed the V3 Frame and purchased a TX03 for the fpv setup. Could someone guide me to a mount and guards that can work for this frame, please? thank you.

There's a nice one over at Danricho's that's all designed up for the TX03. I'd recommend trying that one out.

100mm Whoop Frame (Fusion 360 parameter driven)

That's perfect!!! Thank you TheShortCrayon!

Any chance for a FS-A8S receiver mount?

I can design one but I don't have that receiver.

Can you clarify these two settings?

Infill: 100%
Fill Amount 15%

What do they correlate to in Cura? Are you saying an "Infill Density" of 15% or 100%?

15% fill amount for the supports
100% infill for the part itself.

Hi, do you think this frame can be adapted to use 0703 motor and a low profile camera mount?

I'm looking a way to build a brushless version of this:

Thank you for your work!

Like this only with a low profile mount? ;)

Yes! There are a 3 hole attachment for motor, right? Do you have STL?

But, where is supposed to mount the cam? In my brushed build it is between the front ducts, fixed with micro bolts and plastic collar around the lens (actually a normal copper cable cover). The VTX is detached and fixed under the canopy.

I do but I just did this the other day and am testing it out with 65Drones and Winder Wonder Works. It's more or less the v3 frame for 0703 motors and made smaller and lighter. I have a 40mm prop version and the 31mm prop version.

So it would use the typical top mounted camera setup like the Doinker currently uses. It would take more development to design a forward mounted one and that willl make it a larger quad to fit it in.

Yes, I understand. Maybe reducing props diameter, like E010/F36 quads, make room for cam. This should end in a higher motor KW, I saw 15000Kv 0703 motors.

Haha! It's already designed for 31mm props and 15000kv motors. I don't know of much props smaller than that.

It IS smaller than than the current E010/Whoop stuff. I could push the props further out making it larger but would gain space for a forward mounted camera.

Ah ok! So, yes, detaching the props will make possible forward mount AND 4in1 4 ampere ESC on the bottom: http://www.banggood.com/Only-2g-16x16mm-Racerstar-Star4-4A-1S-Blheli_S-4-in-1-Brushless-ESC-D-Shot-Ready-for-Racing-Drone-p-1135544.html?rmmds=search which is 21x21mm

The 4in1 4A ESC is actually mounted inside just under the FC in that picture.

Yeah! Do you have a project here?

I'm not sure I follow. What do you mean by a project here?

Do you have the 0703 3 hole version STL on Thingiverse?

No. It's still in testing.

Ok, I will wait with anxiety :-) And if you design a low profile version, may be with elegant canopy, I will realize my dream ;-)

It will most likely be released in some form or fashion. I like the idea of the front mount camera but will need to work on it more.

My brushed low profile whoop is impossible to crack: it falls down from 30mt to concrete with no damage (only scratch on canopy). I smashed it on tree and iron poles: cam never got hit. Frame is from Furibee F36: it's like gum. Cam in front position but up to motor leads is well protected. Also, the canopy, ahead of aesthetic reasons, protects boards preventing micro SMD component to jump away when hit.


I'm sit dow waiting for brushless version of Super Hero Quad :-)

Trying to put together a build now.

What FrSky receiver do you recommend? Have you guys run the TinyFish FC w/ built-in FrSky RX?

Thinking to do that, in combo with the 4-1 esc... Thoughts?

I've been using the FrSky XM and love it. The TinyFish + 4in1 should be the Swirlie better than the Doinker. The Swirlie fits 16x16 spacing already where the Doinker does not.

On the Beta 3 Frame, where do you mount the FrSky Receiver? Almost done printing now.. gonna swap over from my ARFun 90... :D tryi'n to figure out where to mount stuff!

ALSo, on the Beta Frame, how do you mount the stack normally? ESCs seem a bit too wide to be the bottom plate... Do you mount them underneath? what bout usb access on the FC?

I've mounted the ESC underneath. Then used standoff to raise the top mounted FC so that the USB port is accessible. You can fit a small RX between the ESC and FC.

beautiful!! printing standoffs now :D Frame came out gorgeous.. Did it in a 'smoke' colored PETG

sweet. I wasn't sure if the XM was too big or not =P

Okay, so back to the Piko BLX and cicada 4-1... and an XM!

Who's your favorite online reseller for ALL of the components? :D

For all the components hit up 65Drones. Great group of people over there.


anything state-side?

Not all in one place. Winder Wonder Works carries the frames stateside but doesn't carry any components.

Hi guys - What size motors are you all running on this frame?

I've ran 1104 7500kv and also 1105 6500kv motors which both worked fine. I'm about to build one up with 1104 10,000kv motors from AirbladeUAV that should work great as well. I've seen some people scale the z-axis down 80% and run 1102/1103 motors with really good looking results as well. I would expect the v3 frame to scale down in Z better than the v2.

The issue with the v3 beta is that it's like 8 grams heavier. That's like 25% or something. Quite a lot heavier. The only change I need to make the v2 perfect is to get rid of the ESC mounts, because not many folks are using individual ESCs anymore, they are using 20mm all in ones.

I personally think it would do a lot for this community if you published CAD files and turned off the "no derivatives" part of your license.

Edit: as you can see here: http://imgur.com/a/r1b6i I managed to cleanly cut off the ESC mounts from the STL and it is now cleaner, lighter, and easier to print, but I'm not allowed to distribute it as per the license.

The v3 is actually built more off the Bulbufet edition which has thicker ducts. One of the points of the v3 is to focus on durability as it has plenty of thrust already. If you're weight conscience, print it in Alloy 910 and it's only a few grams more than an ABS v2 except tons stronger.

Please inform me how much time to fly?

Flight times depend on setup and batteries but around 3min.

What's the reason for the slight cut out on one of the prop guards in V3? Near the FC.

It's to give the spektrum port on the Piko a little more room.

How do the ESC's mount in the V3 frame or is a 4 in 1 ESC required?

4in1 is required right now on the Beta frame. Individual ESC slots will be added though.

Went to all three locations, NO mention of the WEIGHT? What's the frame weight and total weight?

Abs V2 is usually around 24-26g. It depends on your filament. Full weight will depend on your setup but around 80g

Has anyone tried putting together a Doinker box yet?

What is the total cost of all the components?

When it was released, it was around $220. You can probably build it cheaper now.

Any chance of getting a STL for the propellers? I'm assuming the only reason I haven't found one already is because they would be too fragile if they even printed correctly. However, I'd love to try :)

I don't have an STL for props and don't recommend using them on high kV motors anyways. Buy the RX2535(and cut down) or Furious 1935 fit without cutting.

Key Files?

The Frame it self and then for best results???

Im not sure which electronics im going to get quite yet but....please guide me...!

You should print the following:

The V2 or Bulbufet Edition V2 frame
Mini Frsky Rx
Flight stack spacers
Battery plate

The rest depends on your camera setup and configuration choice. Or you can print none of those and just fly line of sight.

There is a list of recommended electronics on http://www.theshortcrayon.com/doinker

I've been pretty excited to get this thing going...I have a Beenbrain Tiny Whoop that I just love for indoor flying, and I feel like this would be like that on steroids. I've built one of these, and have most of the parts for the second one...I am having some issues with the first one though...I seem to have no control on the right stick. I am using the Pico flight controller, rotorX motors, littlebee 20a pro ESCs...I'm fresh out of ideas. Has anyone experienced this with any of their quads?

Well...took several resets in betaflight, but the problem is gone. Not sure what was going on there, but the Doinker now lives!

Weird! Glad you got it going though!

Just stumbled on this design. It just fits on my new Malyan M200 printer which has a 120x120x120 build volume. I want to thank you so much for designing this and posting it for the community. Job very well done. I am printing this right now and looking forward to building and flying as soon as the rest of my parts get here. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Awesome! Glad you like it and enjoy!

What slicer program are you using to print the frame, I am using Cura and the supports are not working correctly, Can you make a suggestion on how to fix the supports in Cura?

What specifically is the supports doing or not doing?

Here are the Cura settings
Supports: Touching Bed
Overhang: 0
Fill Amount 15%

Also set it to "lines" instead of grid.

Can you add the rods that are supposed to mount the Rx and FC? There's only spacers included in the stl's.

I added the hardware in the listing. They're not printed but off the shelf M3x20 nylon screws and nuts.

Ahh thanks for the clarification!

One more question, on your build instructions what's the purpose of bridging the two SBUS jumpers on the Piko? I really appreciate the help, this is my first build getting into FPV/Quads

Bridging the SBUS pads sets the RX port to SBUS. The Furious FPV RX uses SBUS. If you're using a PPM rx, you would use the same port but bridge other two pads to set that port for PPM. It just depends on what rx you're using.

Also interested in the antenna protector

I put the Loki and Bunny ears up from Winder Wonder Works today.

Very cool, thanks! =]

Anyone designed a case for this guy yet? Like the tiny whoop cases?

Any update on the antenna protector?

how hard is the build on this and whats your final weight
it looks like a tight build but I'm thinking about it. looking into all the parts

It's some small soldering but not overly difficult. If you want to see a great build video, check out Bulbufet FPV's build video of the Doinker.

didnt answer about the weight

People are getting around 76g without battery. Check over at the rcgroups thread. There's a lot of information there.

whats the best way to print this?

I usually print this as is (right side up) to keep the motor mounts and FC mounts on parallel planes. I've seen other people flip it to reduce supports needed and haven't heard of any issues printing it that way.

I looked on your site for components, but don't see any props for specified sizing. Do you have a link to purchase all components except the printed parts? Would love to build one!

Anyway to make the FC mount a little bigger to fit a standard f3 board and 4 in 1 ESC?

Possibly. You gave me an idea for that.

Have you made in progress of it accepting and F3 Board or Naze32 size FCU? Here is the all one ESC that would work great


I don't think I'm going to support 30.5mm spacing parts on the Doinker as they are too big/heavy. Any 20x20mm hole spacing components will work including the current F3 (Piko BLX) board.

Would you reconsider? I have a Naze32 rev 6 and a 4 in 1 I would love to use on this. I would be fine if it increased the size to 100mm... Pretty please? If you could also throw an x4r-sb on their you could fly this beast outside to.

Comments deleted.

All these components are not meant for a build of this size. That said, the upcoming v3 should be able to mount 30.5mm spacing stuff if you REALLY want to. x4r is still pretty large compared to the Furious and FrSky XM stuff.

Alright, Im interested in building the V3 with say a piko and stuff. When do you think it would be out? a few months?

What would be the BEST componets to use for a neat build?

I'm shooting for the end of January or early February. Components would be the same as the v1/v2 except with a 4in1 esc (20x20 hole spacing) and using 2" props.

Looks awesome! perfect for indoor flying without weak and fragile brushed motors. Got the frame on the printer right now. I was wondering if you also designed the antenna protector? If so, do you plan to upload it? Thanks for publishing the doinker!

The antenna protectors are Winder Wonder Works' design. He's on vacation at the moment but we're working on this.

I had already seen this design on Reddit. Could I make a suggestion ?

You could add a small front cover above this ESC. It looks ugly on your FPV (red cable) ;)

Great Flight btw !

Thanks! Not a bad suggestion. So you'd have the cover blocking more of the view but it'd look better than wires? This would be doable.

Thanks for sharing the frame design. I have 2 friends that bought a kit so now I can print them a replacement frame if needed. Did you ever try nylon for the frame?

No problem! I haven't tried nylon but it's my list of experiments. My worries about nylon is that it may be too flexible. You want the ducts to be rigid otherwise any little bending will result in a broken prop. There's only 1 way to find out though! Thanks for the feedback.

I have 2 types of nylon and yes 1 of them is too flexible. I will try the other and give it to one of them to try out.

Sweet! Post your findings and what material you used!

I printed in Taulman 910 (although I didn't dry out the Nylon first, so I need to re-print) and I think it is the best balance of strength with some give. On an un-related note, I was thinking of building a bottom plate to store more components (or to place all the ESCs so they are more protected). You guys think that it will ruin the airflow? http://imgur.com/a/PnJad

Only one way to find out. It'll definitely block some airflow but still be ok.