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ORBZ - A mutli-layerd orb shaped storage solution

by muzz64 Jul 1, 2016
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So disappointed with this design, the box in order to work needs to be printed on a BADLY calibrated printer. The pins ale way to small when printed on a good setup. The box is coming apart all the time. Too bad i ddnt check the comments before printing.

Always sorry to hear when people haven't had a good result printing designs like this because many people also get great results and the images posted clearly show what the end result should be. The images are proof of a good result.

It sounds like you have read prior comments when people have had issues with printing this so assume you have also read the comments I have added. What some people seem to miss is that the pins need to be slotted in with the layer above rotated away 180 degrees from the lower layer. This is because there are flats on the pins so they will slide together... but it they are forced together initially and the pin damaged then it will not stay together. The tolerances in the design are quite small and that includes the overlaps that hold everything together.

Anyway, the bottom line is this can be printed well and exactly as per the images posted and it has been printed by quite a few other members with no issues... but not everyone gets the same result and that can be affected by everything form the slicer to the machine and filament.

It doesn't swing like drawers it is more of a stack it and don't touch or layers fall apart. Am I doing something wrong?

Sorry to hear you are having problems with the parts being loose. The bottom line is not all slicing apps are as precise as others or machines as accurate as others. This means multi part functional designs like this cab range from a too tight fit to a perfect snug fit as well as too loose.... and the variation does not have to be much to have this effect. My designs are all developed to be 'middle of the road' as far as clearances are concerned.

In your case, being loose, you could scale it down 5 -10% to reduce the clearances. Your filament is also worth checking as some 1.75mm measures well below this so the volume extruded is less making parts slightly smaller/ thinner.

The photos provided show what the result should be like and with a snug secure fit. I hope this helps

Comments deleted.

Printed one and i really like the whole design and concept except for one thing. There needs to be a change in the design. All the layers are VERY loose against each other. They slide on and so easily that it's not entirely functional. Makes the whole design fall apart when trying to handle it. I think the pins need to be redesigned to have a tighter and more steadier lock. Other than that it's a great design and idea!

Thanks for your comment however that is the big challenge with any multipart 3D printed things. Not all slicing apps or machines print the same. My designs always try to accommodate the variances... I have designs that print 'loose' for some people but others find them too tight. This comes down to accuracy and precision of the app and/or machine plus filament also makes a difference.

However, the simple solution to address loose or tight assemblies is to uniformly scale all parts a few percent until you achieve the fit you want.

am i allowed to sell this at my school and coustmize it to the teachers liking

No problem with you using it in this way at school. My license terms were applied to try and deter people from selling my designs online, at markets etc. in significant numbers with no royalty back to me let alone any acknowledgement for my work. If you do customize it for your own purposes please do not post it here... thanks.

I have tried to print the bottom base twice with no luck. It almost separates into 2 pieces. I am using a lulzbot mini and using pla filament. Any ideas?

Filament quality / thickness /density / moisture content can also contribute to this issue. ...

Sorry to hear you're having trouble printing the base part. The most likely cause is that it's a result of the extreme angle applied in this area.

Using automated support may help but will mean post print clean up is required. To avoid this the angle used in the design was set at what most well set up machines with a filament fan can deal with okay. .. the point being the curve in that area is actually straight and at an angle that should be printable for most people.

Unfortunately there's no easy answer for your particular machine but it should be resolved by one or some of the following....

It may be a slicing app issue so, although it's round, rotating it say 45 degrees in your slicing app may change the tool path which affects how it prints.

Increase your filament fan settings so it cools layers quicker. This will mean the following layers are printing on a more solid layer Belo.

Slow your outline speed. The issue could be due to the hot nozzle working on previously layed down layers that are very thin because of the angle they are being built out at with nothing supporting them. Slowing the speed may help by allowing more cooling time and possibly a more gentle /smooth entruder action. ... so less chance of the nozzle effectively cutting away previously printed layerst.

Sad to say it but it is a trial and error scenario but an issue that can be overcome for sure so you achieve results as shown in the images.

Hopefully this helps.

thank you! I will try that out.

Anyone know how to put the "stitching" on it so it looks like a baseball?

My best guess is to use text and cover the whole thing but that would be hard to rotate the text. ÌöÍ

my last layer (the 1 @ the bottom) is very deformed. ive printed it again & again but its the same. how can i fix it?

Sorry to hear you're having issue's with the base part. The deformation you are referring to will be due to the quite extreme angle applied at the bottom of the base... but it needs to be that angle to be a round object. The design actually features a small flat base reduced angle to make it print reasonably for most people with a well set up PLA machine with a filament fan. The filament fan makes the filament solidify almost immediately after being extruded. This is what lets you print out on extreme angles. However, not all machines have a filament fan and / or an 'effective' fan. Some blow more directly than others... the next thing is the Fila entry fan setting in u our slicing app. If its set too low it won't cool well enough to deal with angles like this. I don't greatly suffer from this issue with my MakerBot's as the fan outlet is close / direct and it runs at 50% force. Hopefully this helps you improve your result...

I printed twice with CuraEngine on a Geeetech i3 clone, one ABS one PLA. Both prints are quite good. However, either the pin is printed to small or the hole to big. It can be moved in and out in every position.

Is anyone haveng an idea what to change?

Sorry to hear it's not staying together for you as it should... my MakerBot Desktop / MakerBots handle this fine so they have to be fitted rotated 180 degrees from the closed position. If a file is sliced accurately and print precisely in accordance to the design they will not come apart as you have described... there is an overlap that prevents that.

Lots of people have printed these with great results so it has to be either your slicing app settings or machine precision. If the pin seems too small or hole too big try scaling it down 5%... that will reduce the clearances and hopefully end up with a great result for you.

There is a design flaw. Using Cura and PLA on a Monoprice Mini V2 results in every hole to pin diameter difference of .040-.045 ( 1.12 mm ). Changing the file 5% changes the pin and hole diameter a equal amount. The fit is still wrong.

Thanks for your comments however I've never had anything like this reported previously with this design / print and many several thousand people have printed it successfully and provided positive feedback.

On this basis the issue you may have must be related to the slicing app settings. However, I am trying to understand how you have determined that there is an issue with the sizing of the pin to the hole. The fact is there is designed in clearance so they will fit together and that clearance is around the amounts you have mentioned. If there is no clearance the parts cannot be joined or rotate as they do when well printed. In other words, this clearance is important...

With regards to scaling, if you scale everything uniformly (as you should) the relationship between the parts will always remain the same albeit on a different scale. This will however affect the likelihood of a print fusing (reduced in size) or being too loose (enlarged in size).

Hopefully this is of some use.

This isn't clearance. The pins fall in the holes no matter which way they are orientated. As I said the size difference between the two is pin diameter 7.35mm, hole diameter 7.57mm at the locking tab, 8.50 everywhere but the tab. This is as printed at 1.0 on Cura. I'm measuring the hole and pin diameters with digital calipers, there is no error. The decimal numbers are hole .300 at the locking tab .334 everywhere else, pin .256 at the notch and .290 everywhere else. Each piece is this way. All of the pieces go together. They won't stay together. There is no interference fit between the tab in the hole and the groove on the pin.

They obviously shouldn't be like that but it has to be a slicer issue because all I've printed, and there have been a few, stay together fine. Having read your explanation I grabbed one of mine and tested it. I can hold the orb up readily with the layer open and nothing falls apart until you reach the 180 degrees from fully closed position.

Unfortunately there is nothing I can suggest to resolve this for you... mine were all sliced with MakerBot Print and printed on MakerBot's. As I said earlier lots of other members have printed these with great results... but they obviously have different machines and/or slicers. Fine clearances / tolerances can make all the difference... what is too tight with one persons set up can be too loose for others. I deal with this all the time but try to achieve a happy medium with my designs.

I'm going to save the top piece as is and remake the next lower piece layer 2 at 1.05 scale to see if the pin is large enough to interlock in the hole. If that works I will try the next piece at 1.10 scale. This is the 5% increase. Hopefully playing around this way will create a satisfactory print. Wish me luck.

hmm it's at times like these I hate it that I don't have enough filament in the colors I wanna use :\
I'll figure smth out tho :D I really want this

I just made two of them, one original size and one at 235% the big one is rather cool , ill post photos , but one thing I did notice is its really un balance when trawlers are open, are you planning on making a pedestal for the orb ?

Thanks for your message.... when the Orbz are closed they should be stable and stand well as they have a flat base. However, stability will be affected when they are opened due to the weight hanging out the side/s. Putting heavier contents in the bottom helps if you want to leave them open but the intention was always to put things inside then close it up... in which case balance isn't an issue

I did think about designing in a fold down leg for each layer except the lid. Easy enough to do but some people would struggle with getting a good result due to the fine tolerance required

Nice thanks! A couple of details and you got yourself a death star.... :)

...the problem is Disney doesn't appreciate that. I've already had one design removed from Thingiverse due to a legal "demand". There are loads of cool things you could do if you didn't have to be mindful of potential legal issues...

I thought that too! With a few tweaks this could so easily be a golden snitch, or a thermal detonator... nerd heaven! That's too bad about the legal issues.

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