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Toranado3D

Toranado Precision Geared Extruder - Legacy Versions

by Toranado3D Jun 29, 2016
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Hello, I recently assembled and tested this extruder. I was able to complete one of these test prints: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24238

But now I can't get it to print anymore. I checked for a hotend clog and even disassembled the upper portion of the extruder, but I can't seem to get it back to printing. Any thoughts? Have you seen this behavior? It seems like the bearing just isn't pressing the filament up against the drive gear, and the filament can be easily pushed down and through a heated hot end by hand. I know you've moved on to V2.0, but I had printed V1 a while back and never got around to assembly until this past week.

Is there anything I should be looking for? Or maybe a design aspect that might prevent proper bearing-filament-gear contact? All of my screws are very tight and the parts all look snuggly fitted.

5mm Calibration Cube Steps

There are many things that could keep any extruder (even good ones) from working properly. Here are some common ones to check on the Toranado.

1) the gear-gear spacing is too tight. This will cause the gears to bind and the motor to skip steps and stop extruding. It will usually have a clicking sound.

2) The extruder stepper drive voltage is wrong. This can cause various problems.

3) Did not use Ultibot's drive gear. An incorrect effective diameter will cause the bearing to contact the filament at the wrong point.

4) There is no gap between the idler and the extruder base housing. Check and see if your idler is touching the housing when springs are fully tightened. This will keep force from being applied to the drive gear. An easy way to test this is to press on the idler when it is extruding... if it extrudes properly, this is the issue. This issue has been effectively solved in v2.0.

Please explain to me your failure mode... is it a situation where it seems to be working normally but no plastic is extruded?

Hey! I got it working. The problem was the 3d printed shaft collar. I had put the screw in it too tight, causing the collar to warp in shape (into an oval instead of a circle. It was most likely because I printed it with 1 perimeter on a very low infill percentage). Due to this distorted shape, the part began to rub against the decorations cover.

This increased friction cause some slipping action to occur on the collar that's attached to the Aluminum main gear. This resulted in little to no filament being driven through.

I had been afraid of over torque-ing the M4 screw per the instructions, but it seems I was just a bit too timid in tightening it. Once tightened, the friction between the decoration cover and the distorted shape of the 5mm shaft collar was overcome and printing is of excellent quality.

Thank you for the update... your 1.1 gears will work fine in the 2.0 - if you upgrade you will like the ability to easily swap the hotend.

So, the one thing I noticed about this particular design is that airflow may be an issue. The airflow from the heat sink fan seems to also be flowing around the heater block. This is kind of a problem as it causes the heater block to heat more slowly and seems to be the suspect in my printer having heat failure issues since installing it. There really needs to be open air flow going into the heat sink and equally away from it so that air isn't forced to the heat block and out the bottom.

Unless I did something wrong with the assembly.

You have accurately diagnosed why I switched to v2.0

The MK7 drive gear doesn't seem to be directly inline with the ptfe tubing causing the filament to bend around the bearing to contact it. Is that by design? I'm thinking this isn't quite right...

do you have an ultibot mk7 drive gear with an effective diameter of 11.17mm?

The outer diameter (non-toothed area) is about 12mm. The toothed diameter is about 10.5mm. I believe these are within a tolerance range of the MK7 as indicated here:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0663/6961/products/mk7-gear-stripped-1200_1024x1024.jpg?v=1464451909

https://reprapchampion.com/products/2-pcs-mk7-hobbed-pulley-drive-gear-reprap-3d-printer-extruder-prusa-i3-makerbot

I spec'd the ultibot drive gear that is made with an M3 tap because of its grip. It has a slightly larger effective diameter of many of the gears derived from an MK7 pulley, but the grip is fantastic. If you want your Toranado to function as designed, you need to get an Ultibot drive gear or find one with the same dimensions - otherwise you will have the problem you have identified, because the bearing is not centering properly on the filament nested in the drive gear.

So, I used the equation indicated to set my DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT which from what I understand would be 902. However, it hardly extrudes anything. I have to increase the extrusion to almost 400% to get a proper amount. Any ideas why?

More than likely, you are not configured for 1/32 stepping on the extruder. What electrical setup / drivers are you using?

DRV8825 RAMPS, yes, it is 1/32. I think the stepper wiring is wrong. I need the mapping for the yellow/green/red/grey to red/black/blue/green.

Hi All -

Use coupon code TORANADO and save $5 off each spool of filament PLA, PETG, TPU, & ABS when purchased with our MK7 drive gear and a genuine E3D V6 hotend. Our filament is made by Toner Plastics in the USA. They guarantee roundness, size, and purity. Offer ends August 31, 2016.

Happy Printing!
Brad www.UltiBots.com