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Subaru WRX EJ20 Boxer Engine Model - Fully Functioning

by ericthepoolboy Jun 26, 2016
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Awesome design and the parts kit is excellent, I am building them for my friends as gifts. I have been 3d printing almost from the start, design and build my printers. I have two printers running full time knocking out two at a time. I received the parts kits today and started assembling the crankshaft, excellent fit. The bearings are snug but not too tight. An accurate printer a must.
I found instructions in the cutaway version files, required reading. Printing parts is for the experienced and assembly is somewhat difficult. The cutaway is much better then the original for one thing the hole sizes are larger and the screws slide in very nicely.
One thing I haven't figured out or found is where to locate or mount the circuit board for the electric motor.
Thanks for the work and effort, Ed Kirk

Man this is one hell of a difficult job to understand how to assemble ... how is someone supposed to understand how to mount the cam sprockets correctly ?

I wonder if some one could chime in and help me understand what happened to this print. This is the driver side cylinder head for the Subaru engine on this site. It started printing fine and all of a sudden it quit, extruded all the filiment backwards until all fillament was out of the extruder. I am now printing some of the other parts on this project and it is working fine. It's as though the printer reset itself, but why did it back out all of the filliment? Anyone ever have this happen? It is a MP Mini Select V2.

This definitely Looks like an extruder problem along with a possible gcode file glitch! If your printer is successfully printing other good parts then I would re-slice the .stl file, then check that the extruder gear is clean and tight. Also if your HotEnd has a PTFE tube installed all the way through the heat sink to the nozzle then you may want to check that the PTFE tube is not charred or melted causing a partial blockage right above the nozzle. If it is, then replace the PTFE tube, clean inside of heat sink barrel and nozzle and reassemble. If this process is unfamiliar to you then there are several YouTube videos that will walk you through step by step. Hope this helps! I am just now starting to print this project on my CR-10, Ender 3 and when I finish converting my MP Di3 v2 to Bowden extruder with an E3D v6 hotend I'll be using it also. If you can, let me know how it works out or if I can be of further help. Happy Printing

So I purchased the kit. But it did not come with instructions. This is my first kit so I am wondering if im missing something? Are there step by step instructions online?

Edit: I have found the files which include instructions. I am currently printing the cam spacers. However using the Lulzbot 2 mini, the spacers are looking like this. Please see attached pics. Any way to improve this print or is this what I am to expect? Thank you in advance for any tips!

bighair, where did you find the instructions? I've been looking and haven't been able to find them!

Anyone else have a problem printing Engine Block 1. Won't fit the bed of Monoprice Mini Select V2?

I just checked the Build spec's on the Monoprice Mini Select V2 is 120mm x 120mm x 120mm. At 100% scale, I'm printing it right now and the size of the model is 105.61mm x 117.35mm x 70.32. It should be able to print but the Y at 117.35 will be very close. Check that your end stops are set to 0,0,0 as close to the front left corner of your bed. You may need to adjust them to get full 120mm of Y build area.

Eric how much would it cost if you made me one of these? I'm really interested.

I've had trouble sourcing the press-in inserts because the description is a bit thin. There is more than one kind of 3mm x 3mm brass insert and I got the wrong ones the first time out. These are what you need to fit the holes in Eric's design, in case anyone else is having trouble getting the right ones.


To insert them, I took a slightly different angle than Eric did in his instruction. I use a 4mm drill bit in a t-handle to clean up the hole slightly. The idea is to get the hole enlarged just so that you just can get one knurled end of the insert started in the hole. It should be a bit difficult to get it to play nice. Then, if there's a parallel face to the face the insert is going in, I take the whole thing over to my vise, clamp it in, and just slowly squeeze on the insert. The pressure of the vise should square up the insert to the hole and you just slowly close the vise until the face of the vise and the face of the printed part touch. The insert should be seated correctly. Go slow and gentle on the vise, steadily and slowly squeezing to allow time for everything to flow.

You might want to try it on a scrap piece of plastic or a piece that doesn't take a day to print if you're not used to the process. Using one of the block pieces to learn on probably isn't wise. Also, be careful on parts that don't have a lot of wall outside the insert, as you can blow the sides out if you try to press the inserts in a hole that's too tight for the material there.

This is such an impressive Model!! Since I have to use MakerBot, what percentage would I have to shrink it, to be about 1:8/1:9 Scale? Exact isn't as important, it will be going in a RC Buggy.

Also, can you add "Have This Printed" so I can use MakerBot?? ;)

Third, any plans for a 5.2L Ford Coyote Engine?

BTW, it obviously don't have to be functional at that size! Won't need internals.


How much and which type of plastic did you use?

I'm also looking for any help in setting the timing of the camshafts for installation of the belt. The video shows black pen marks on each cam gear that all line up at one point in the rotation, but I've never found any explanation on where those pen marks are supposed to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The the reply below

Great, made the model but I'm looking for information to correctly align all the gears when fitting the belt, ie so that the valves are in the right place reference to the piston positions.


It's not too big of a deal with this model, as the heads pop off and you can't see the valve opening. I normally just slap it together and if a piston hits a valve i'll adjust it. Bot if you want proper valve timing i'll do my best to try and explain it.

Looking at the front of the engine, the cylinders are numbered as so. Front Left #1, Front Right #2, Rear Left #3, Rear Right #4.
The firing order is 1-3-2-4.

So with the #1 cylinder at top dead center, the cam intake lobes for #1 should be just starting to open the intake valves. The cam exhaust lobes for #1 should be just finished closing the exhaust valves. Draw a mark on both cam gears. Easiest place would be between the two cam gears where the two cam gear are the closest, inline with the valve cover mating surface. Now rotate both cam gears 180 degrees. That should set the passenger side cams.

So without rotating the engine set the drivers side cams. Do the same thing on cylinder #2 but don't rotate it 180 degrees when done. Place the marks on the cam gears in the spots that the passenger side gears are in currently.

So if I explained all this right, the marks on the intake cam gears should be up and the exhaust cam gears should be down.

Comments deleted.


Really outstanding work. I am all in and have completed 70% of the model. The motor, DC jack, and control board in the MakerRX kit does not work with any of the oil pans on Thingiverse. The closest design is oil_pan_scanned.stl but the motor axle and bolt holes do not align with the motor in the MakerRX kit. Do you have a version of the file that matches motor in the build kit?

Thank You and Best Regards,


Check out the oil pan found on the remixed version of this engine. The one with the exposed block.

what to say: AWESOME, nothing else...!!!

Idea for a build .a functional harley davidson big twin engine and transmission would be awesome

A Harley shovel head is on the list. But I just have to find one, or the cad files/dimensional drawings for one.

Too bad we need to spend 85$ for the hardware and dont give us the list of hardware needed like the toyota..

Maybe try looking instead of being unappreciative of all his hard work https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/8a/91/dc/6d/05/EJ20_Hardware_Parts_List.pdf

facepalm xD, i did look but didnt see that one, didnt mean to being unappreciative.. thanks anyway ^^

Hi Eric, re cam spacer2 stl, when I print I get a 22.9 dia x 8.2 wide spacer with an 8.8 bore, way too big to put anywhere, any idea what I'm doing wrong please?

It think it just wasn't scaled properly. Try the new file

so Eric: like at MCDrive... order and eat !!!
Niiiiiiice job, really...
I wish I could print one someday, when i'll retire, may be, not so far anyway : I'm already sixty... xD

Thanks Eric, fine now!

Hello Ericthepoolboy, the amount of detail you have done is outstanding ..... just the intake manifold in 3D printing was amazing, the length and shape plus multiple surfaces ..Was this one printed part or more?.... You've established a "Gold Standard Level" ...... Regards, 5131tx

I was wondering which oil pan to print if I am not using the kit from makerrx. Also how do I source a motor that is compatible with the oil pan to know that it will mount to the pan?

I'm unsure where to get the current motor at the moment. It's a 500rpm 12v DC motor with a 6mm shaft

Have you made an intercooler for it yet?

Very cool
Added to my to do list on the mk2s

Any interest in the Nissan vq38tt from the skyline gtr? Would make a great desktop engine display.


Thank you so much for sharing your work

So now I see where all my Subaru oil is going!! Mystery solved.
Great model. I will be adding this to my list of prints.

How many revs can this thing take before smoking itself like the Eight-Six?

Love your engines, Any chance you can model the classic BMW S52 6 cylinder?
Assume job on all the models.

Do you happen to have the dimensions of the individual pieces? I am working with 2 different printers and need to know which objects can be printed on which printer.

First off, absolutely beautiful model. I printed it and love it. I have taken the files and have been reworking them to make a static 1/10 ej25 to put in the 1/10 2010 stock forester display model I'm building. I know it wont be exact but it will be close enough for what can be seen. thank you for such a great model..

Have you made any progress? I'm looking for a non-functional version in 1:10 Scale and 1:8 Scale...

Any progress on this? I would love to do one for my legacy

Damn son, nicely done

Wow, that's an amazing build! Is there any way you could send me a CAD model of the entire assembly? I've been hunting for a wireframe model of the EJ20 and can't find any, so I figured I could pull this assembly into autocad and view it in wireframe

Can you use magnets 1/4 diameter by 1/16 thick?

@ericthepoolboy Please notify when the new engine block and parts will be up to download!

How many kilogrmms did it take?

Does anyone know if the engine block splitting in half on Engineering explained is up for download yet?

Working on it. It will be a new thing as I'm going through and redoing the parts for easier printing and assembly. The hardware kit will work for both versions though.

I started to print the heads and am wondering if I will have to reprint those to get to work with the new split main case? Thank you for your designs.

Heads will be slightly different but the heads from this model will work.

The model made for Engineering Explained had engine blocks split in halves, so you could see inside the engine easily.
Do you have files for this? I'd love to print it that way.

I'm working on getting them uploaded now. Should be up in the next couple days.

That would be great. Thanks so much!

Hi @ericthepoolboy, is it possible to print it at 50% of the current size? ~18% scale from original? 35% scale is too big for my table top! There will be issues with the fasteners I guess. I'd probably just print the externally visible stuff first.

You can scale it down 50% but you probably wont be able to find bearings to fit. You could use M1.6 screws if you want and then just print bushings.

The kit in the store says it's out of stock. Do you know if they will be getting it back in stock?

They should be back in stock in the next couple days.

I'm hoping they are only out of stock due to the popularity of the recent EE video. I emailed them to ask if they are planning on restocking.

Wow this is really cool. Saw this on Engineering Explained. Felt like i needed to say something. :)

This is awesome. Please, please, please make the iconic Air-Cooled Porsche 911 engine :)

The parts that say _scaled need to be printed at 100% ?
The engine block says 11hrs ...

  1. Valve spring puck
  2. 9657K33
    Hi may I ask what are these? where can I buy them on the internet?

There are 3 different sized tensioner pulleys, do I need one of each?

Mix and match the smaller ones if you use the 780mm belt. It doesn't matter If you are glueing a belt together.

I'd like to know this too.

Can this print on 200mm x 200 mm x 180mm

Yes it can, the intake manifold you will have to rotate on one side high to make it fit, but it will.

That part thing is great. Just wish it wasn't $87 :/

You don't have to buy the parts from there. You can buy them all separately from other places for probably less.

Can you ship the non printable parts to the UK?

Many thanks.

Yes, its an extra $20 USD for shipping

It would be amazing to see a exhaust manifold, turbo and intercooler , colab that with the remixed throttle body and a rotated intake manifold for an authentic look..

@ericthepoolboy Where do you source your magnets? I set them up in one of the halves and heads, and they cannot support the weight of the heads. any advice?

China is where I get them. You have to make sure that the magnets contact each other. I'm trying to source thicker magnets for the heads though.

Please help me decide which engine to do next..
I'm leaning towards the Porsche Four cam, but would like to get some input.
Keep in mind that the inline 6 cylinders will most likely
not be able to be printed in one piece on most printers.


I'm an engineer for Cummins and all my coworkers have asked if you've made a 6BT. That's my vote!

Would love to see a 2JZ

How much will cost ship to Poland?

@ericthepoolboy <3 thanks for this! <3, still printing but looking forward for the transmission next <3 :)

Looks like the parts list may be missing the oil pump hardware?

I am not sure if anyone has posted a comment about this already, but what would be the best way to print the Engine blocks? From all orientations, I am seeing that support material will be placed in places that I won't be able to remove it very easily. I am using Cura and printing on a Robo 3D R1+. Thanks!

You should be able to print the engine blocks without support. Or print with support touching build plate and change the support angle to greater than 75 degrees.

Thank You. I'm in the process of upgrading to an E3D v6 and will attempt the blocks after I install it tomorrow. Thanks!

Thank You. I'm in the process of upgrading to an E3D v6 and will attempt the blocks after I install it tomorrow. Thanks!

I am not sure if anyone has posted a comment about this already, but what would be the best way to print the Engine blocks? From all orientations, I am seeing that support material will be placed in places that I won't be able to remove it very easily. I am using Cura and printing on a Robo 3D R1+. Thanks!

Comments deleted.

This is honestly one of the coolest 3d prints I've seen.
Nick work!

Comments deleted.

What is the phasing of the lobes on the camshafts supposed to be? Specifically, when assembling the camshafts where should the four lobes on the camshafts be in relation to one another.

Also, when placing the timing belt, where does each camshaft need to be in relation to the other three?

Is this an interference engine?

Non-interference engine.

@ericthepoolboy: Any update on V8 and other stuff you are working on?

I'm working on the V8 tonight. Still waiting to see if Subaru will send me the shifter assembly for the 6 speed....

Don't know why it's taking me so long....

I am having the same issues printing the crank gear. De-selecting the "detect thin walls" option does not help either. Can't use makerware since I'm using a Taz 5 to print. Any other ideas why some of us are having this issue and some not?

Any chance I could have another member email email me a .GCD file someone used to print this successfully?

I have found a work-around it seems. In Cura, I had to change the "default" setting for shell thickness from 1.0mm to 0.26mm. This is the first time I've had to change this setting since I got my printer about a year ago.


awesome engine.... thanks for making it! question on an issue i am having with the cam gears. i am using a flash forge finder and cannot print the cam gears they fail big time. Any help or direction to get them to print right? THANKS!


UPDATE: bought simplify3d prints AWESOME!

Hey Eric,

I'm printing your magnificent design, but found that the Crank_Gear_scaled.stl and the Crankshaft_rear_flange_scaled.stl both have wrong angles on the mating surface with the Crankshaft_x_scaled.stl parts. The angle should be 40 degrees, but it is around 32 degrees. Could you fix it or shall I upload the repaired parts?

Thanks, Hans

did you get a resolution to this issue? I am seeing the same thing

Just saw this comment. Fixed the files and re uploaded them

where can I get the springs for the valves part named 9657K33


you will need to buy 2 of these cases as the one case contains only 12 3/8" by 3/4" springs

Where can I get the part number the springs that you labelled 9657k43

Could you do a subaru ez36D flat six next? Also some I would like to see are a porsche boxter 6 from the 1975 930.

Now, these will be harder to find, but these are some that I would explode in joy over:

A v10 from the legendary v10 era of f1. Examples are the ferrari Tipo 053, and renault rs25. Another fun one is the porsche 910 flat six engine from 1967, which beat the ford gt40 on the nurburgring, the 1978 ferrari 512 bb lm's flat 12 which sounded amazing, the nissan rb26 I6, the toyota 2jz I6, two jdm beasts, the 1976 alfa romeo 33 sc 12 (the normally aspirated version) which got pole on every race it was in thanks to its flat 12, the 1970 ferrari 312b boxer 12 engine, and the 2016 Dodge Viper ACR v10 engine.

Just some ideas ;)

I'm only a little car obsessed

Next up after the ls7 and STi transmission will probably be a Type 547 Porsche. Gonna try and work only from pictures and documentation to develops the car files. We'll see how that goes.

I just got into 3d printing. I'm a noob, but our school has a floor of MakerBot replicator 5's and I'm really getting into it. I've always been into cars, but now I'm getting into computers and 3d printing.

So I finally done all unfinished modifications and catch most of bugs on my printer and now I'm doing this awesome thing... :)
Only problem I have is finding cheap springs for this. I find some heat bed leveling springs for Ultimaker 2 whitch should be 15mm long and have about 9,2mm outside diameter... but hey are in china so it will take very long time until they came to me... And I'm worying about theyr force, I think it would be best to use some I can fully press with my fingers to make it work easy and smooth (these should have 1,2mm diameter of the spring wire itself and that is almost twice than what is in the parts list). So did someone use or try to use them?

hi there iam having a problem finding one of the parts the cam bearing caps as i cant find them on the files how do you hold down the cams

Should be with files now, it was one part that I forgot to upload originally.

@ericthepoolboy : Eric what is ETA on V8? My printers are ready & waiting. :)

I got caught up in doing the STi transmission. The V8 is done and printed, I just need to do the instructions and parts list. I'll try and work on it in the next couple days.

This is great!
If you ever feel the need to do a Honda B16 engine, that would be awesome too.

Please help
Where to I go to purchase the bearings required (623zz, 61700& 61701) for the engine.
Also the timing belt, Could i also have the specs, and where to purchase

Thank you

Unbelievable!!! Does it really work??

How many motors do I need?

didnt see if this was posted at all. but i can not for the life of me get the teeth on the cam gears and crank gear to print for shit.

any hints on what you did?

im on a wanhao di3

EDIT! it appears as tho i have figured this out. I had to disable "detech Thin walls" in the slicer printer settings.

I've had the same problem when I ran it through Cura but when I use Makerware it's printing the gears. Not sure what's that about.

i have the same Problem, Very bad prints on my Da Vinci 1.0a with original Firmware and Da Vinci slicer. oozing over the teeth .
the solution is Simplify3d, top prints. all the teet were fine.

sorry for my terrible english



Eric, great model! I have one piece left to print and I have already started on assembly. For The Electronics what motor controller are you using? Do you have it just running off of a separate battery or did you set it up for AC? I see the motor you used is out of stock and am going to be using a different motor per another user had stated and am hoping it will fit. On the instructions only a few things are unclear. For the printed parts list its missing the bearing caps 1 and 2 for the cams. On the connecting rod diagram ITEM NO 14,15,16 are not in the picture and shouldn't be on this page. On the diagram that shows the front of the motor and all the gears ITEM NO 36 cam nut is not on the picture. I understand from the photos they go on 2 of the cam gears but this diagram should be redone to show exactly where they go. Great work and I really enjoyed the printing and building!

Also for the valve springs I was able to buy just the ones needed for this model in sets of 5 for a few dollars off of ebay instead of ending up with the hole assortment and might never use the rest.

what scale do I use for the complete down load am using 5th Generation Replicator
please help (8/7/2016)

scaling already done. I just downloaded and printed.

How's that LS engine coming along? Can't wait to see it!

Done, just need to do the instructions and parts list.

i am having some trouble slicing the valve puck. matter control is not generating it completely and cura is even worse at it. can someone send me a working gcode for it?
how can i fix the valve puck so it will actually generate the tool path properly?

If you're still having trouble you can change your nozzle diameter in your slicing software to 0.35mm and Shell thickness to 0.7mm or walls to 2, you may also need to change your first layer thickness down to 0.2 if it is higher just to make the software not throw an error (I'm on CURA 14.12). The difference should be small enough that you can get away with lying to the printer and the slicing software should generate a good tool path. Reason being that actual section of the piece is very near to the nozzle diameter and can generate bad Gcode because the machine may think it is to small to print and will miss pieces of it. Hope this helps!

i was able to print all the part of the engine. now just to find a place to get all the rest of the none printable parts in south africa

i had this problem and the thing that solved it for me was getting a new quality microSD card. you an view the file and paths in repetier host to check too

i am also using a wanhao di3

i now have probably all of the mechanical pieces printed. i still need to print the intake manifold then I'm done printing. i'll probably miss a few tensioners. i'll print those when i get there

You may need to change your nozzle size since the walls are so thin. My nozzle was .4mm

my printer came with a .4mm nozzle so its default for all my prints.

wanhao duplicator i3

I would play with the nozzle size setting and then try and slice it. I use cure and it has no problems.

im having the same issue. It wont print the walls just the base. .4mm as well.

i had to use slicer to properly generate the gcode for the valve pucks with a layer height of 80 microns.
came out real smooth

This is great! Files downloaded and all scaled up x2. Any tips on the hardware list for a double scale model?

Dude Your Amazing! That 22R Was amazing im still printing up parts for it when i have time. You Should Really Do a Honda B18 Engine Next, The Fan Boys Would Go Crazy!!! Hahaha

@ericthepoolboy: Cam_Spacer_6.STL is not scaled and needs to be rotated

Agreed- Any chance of getting a new Cam_Spacer_6.STL uploaded? I scaled the file to 35% and did 90 degree x-rotation.

So cool. Since you're looking for next projects... how about a VW Type II engine? :-)

Hey, I was thinking the same thing. I wanted a VW Type I since it's what I have going into an airplane I am working on!

That is beautifull!!!

J'ai commencé. J'ai fait quelques modifications pour compenser le jeu de certaines pièces. Mais tout est parfait.
J'ai fait le moteur TOYOTA. Je me suis beaucoup amusé.
Serait-il possible d'avoir les fichiers sous SolidWorks?
Merci !
Très bon travail

All I can say is DITTO on the accolades!!!

Wow, great job on this. Any chance you could upload a .stp file of the assembly? Will you be doing a transmission?

Couple of queries :

  • The intake is on back to front - Any plans to add the rest of the air box etc. ?

  • No exhaust ?

  • Spark Plugs & Ignition Coil Pack are missing, what do you use for leads ?

Example : [img]http://subaruidiots.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/coil1.jpg[/img]

  • Missing covers for timing belts ?

  • Belt pulleys & alternator ? ( It needs brackets & accessories )

Would love to see a Gearbox to match, great work so far keep at it ... :)

Cheers, Bantum ...

Somebody get this man an LS1! I would love to have a working LS1 model.

LS3 Coming in about a week

Awesome! Can't wait for that one!

I'll be all over that LS3! Awesome work man! Asking too much for a T-56 to go with it one day?! Haha you are the sh*t!

Awesome, looks like I need to buy more filament in preparation!!!

I'm just test printing the piston... Now I know how small it is! You should make a photo of a piston and sd card and put it there because it seems like people think it is gonna be pretty big...

were do you get the nuts and bolts

Depends on your location. I personally buy them from TME.eu. They got all screws, nuts, jam nuts, threded rods, magnets etc very well categorised and you can even choose from black / zink color etc. Buying bolts in common hardware store is allways very expensive.

Amazing. I will print this as soon as the printer comes back from repair. I plan to scale it down though, if possible.

Hi Eric, I had great fun printing the 22RE engine and gearbox. It is one of my best models I made.
Now I am up for the Subaru engine but can you tell me where I can buy the motor gearbox and some more details how to fit it.
Great work and I admire you. I know a but of design work (60 years in the job)

Estimated filament cost pls?

Good cad work.... Insulting engine design. Those things were aweful in anything that weighed more than 1000kg. :P

HAHAH, new this was a Subby engine (that flat 4 you see in Subby's and older Porsches)

LS1 for sure , great work ! Already have the Toyota one working on this one now.

any chance for a 2JZ_GTE and the getrag 6 spd :) ??

nah, we need the rb26dett first.

This is so awesome, ridiculously good job!

you are the man! keep up the good work

I don't see Cam_bearing_cap_2 included. Is it perhaps labeled something else or am I just blind?

I uploaded it. I guess I missed it when I uploaded everything.

Thank you!! I'll post pics of all the pieces once I finish printing them.

Did you ever take those pics?

I'll post some later this afternoon, still trying to round up all the hardware to complete assembly.

I'm always happy when your stuff gets featured, it deserves it.

what an amazing work!!!

Great work. Special request . Please make timing belt also so that i can print it please..

Belt is roughly 775mm long. GT2

Very nice!
Do you have a clean oil pan without the holes for electronics?
And what length is the timing belt?
Did you 3D scan the parts or you measure and draw everything?

Uploaded the oil pan without electronics. Everything was measured and modeled in solidworks

Thanks! :)
I never worked with solidworks but seems like ton of work in very short time (as i see in lower coment). I might look on that program one day.

Very impressive. How long did it take you to design this? did you design it from scratch?

Everything from scratch. Probaby about two weeks working on it part time. Maybe 40 hours of modeling. I don't really keep track though.

Great work! Congratulations!

I think an SR20DET, RB25DET or a 2JZ would be really cool. Also nice work!

I don't know if anyone has made a special request, but here goes mine:

I have built, for my plane, a bored out VW Type 1 Motor. I have a stock case and reworked crank to carry a prop hub, but otherwise it has been bored out for 94mm cylinders. Could you, would you do something like what you see at greatplainsas.com? Thanks.

There are two kinds of camshaft bearing caps. I found only one STL file, the big one that goes on the front of the cylinder heads and not the small ones. Thanks for the pictures of the gearmotor and speed controller.

They are both there now.

EricthePoolBoy, I think you forgot the STL files for camshaft bearing caps.

Uploaded it. also uploaded a picture of the speed controller that goes in the oil pan.

Thanks Eric. I did the other engine at half scale again and it looked great. I am doing this one at 0.6 of your scale and it looks great - I'm about half way. Pics soon. Thank you. Bathing in Nail polish remover also.

the size in which they have built it?

I want to Build Everything in 50% Scale because 100% is Too big for my Printer

Hi Eric,
What a new awesome printjob !!!
Many thanks for it.

Can you show details of the E-motor drive ?



Awesome work man. This is using 25% infill? Do you know how much it weighs? just trying to gauge how much filament I need..

you'll probably need 2kgs of filament total

Well done on the feature Eric, well deserved. Keep it up

Oh and do you have a list of hardware that I would need? If not that's cool just wondering.

Hey I was wondering if I could print this on a 150x150x150 build area thanks!

oh my god! You are genius!

Can i have a question what kind of slicer did you use? Will cura make it? :) (i would love to buy simplify3d, but its too expensive for me at this moment)

All slicing was done with Cure


very great work !
so for the spring (all) do you have a reference or is even the toyota motor ?
thank you

The spring was home made again

hi, thank's for your partage, you do a very good works !!!
i will printed all your models the first engine and gear box is allready printed

thank you

Oh my god,

the next great printjob.....

my local Filament dealer is my best friend......

Thanks a lot for this

sorry for my bad english



wish there was a b18c type r motor whould make a good addition to my collection

Amazing work! I'd kill to have a 2JZ-GTE, any chances of that happening in the future? :D

If I can find the cad files for one or have a blown one provided then maybe

thanks so much for you design
but i can't find magnet sixe can tell for get magnet

Nice, just like the one in my wrx (sans the turbocharger)

great job!

Intake manifold is on backwards >.<

Looks awesome though, would totally print if I still had my STi..

Reversed Spec-C intake manifold Yo.

Huh, never seen a reversed manifold. For a FMIC I would assume..

tu sei davvero un pazzo scatenato!!! complimenti, bellissimo lavoro!

very impressive, im sure it will be a must of my list of projects to make and get working

Wow, its superb! how much time it took to print and assemble?

I just linked this to the Central NY Subies on Facebook. It's blowing minds right now. :)

In 10 years, when metal 3d printers are affordable, people will be printing REAL 35% scale engines, like this.

Try 2 years - the patents are up on SLS printing and there are already some open source plastic ones out there. The tolerances just need to be tighter for the higher temps that metal needs. Alcoa announced yesterday that it is going into production of SLS powdered nickel, aluminum, and titanium for 3d printing. The sky is the limit!

where can i find the SLS printing files so i can do a dodge hemi engine, this boggles my mind because im looking on how to make one with no success, im jealous honestly. can you please point me in the right direction to make one please? very much appreciated. MakeMeInventor7

Print in dissolvable media, use as a positive to create mold, cast in aluminum. Doable in the backyard over the weekend once print is made.

This is jaw-dropping amazing! :)

Amazing work! How long do you think it took you to reverse engineer it (measuring the original components and CADing it)?

About a week working on it here and there. The longest part is printing and getting the smaller parts to fit.

At 35%, would that make this an EJ14 engine? (Snicker)

Well deserved feature

Outstanding !!
Can't wait for the full 3d printed car. :-)

What kind of electric motor do I need to make the engine run?

This is the one I used. It's available in many different RPMs if you wanted to get a slower one.


There's no photo of the motor that you used and I thought that the motor shown in the link is the one that I need because it has 6mm shaft. What about motor controller? Which one fits inside the oil pan?

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9PWRNM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2CW54FAZDWUAQ

Motor Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVGGWC0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB

Did that motor and controller worked?

The motor and controller worked but I had to put the controller outside of the oil pan because the motor was too large.

Great job! I can't wait for a transmission or 4WD transfer case for this model (my PrintrBot isn't big enough to print the Toyota, so all my hopes are on this one :) )

@ericthepoolboy: Eric, it would be absolutely perfect, if you could add a "Color" remark in the printed parts list, so people can print this whole engine color by color. When I was printing the Toyota 22RE I didn't really know which pieces goes together (by color) and had to change back filaments quite a few times (to same color).

Kind regards

Mate, I love this design and I hope to print one myself shortly. Can you please tell me the length of the GT2 belt you used. I may be able to source one locally the correct length.

I found out that the crankshaft is too flimsy. I loaded the STL files for the crankshaft parts into 3D Studio Max and made the cranks (the parts with the counterweights) about one mm thicker and the counter-bored holes about 0.5 mm thicker. Also, I had to modify the ends of the rear flange and the crankshaft gear where they join the crankshaft parts so that they join better.

How many pla do you use?

May I suggest M3 35mm screws instead of threaded rods for valve stems? This engine and the Toyota engine are the best model engines that I have printed and built. They looked better than other model engines built from kits like the Visible V8 engine.

Using a SHCS for the valve stem was the first thought but since this engine has four valves per cylinder, the valves are too small to use a screw like the toyota engine did. The threaded rod is not ideal but it was the best and easiest solution that works. The ideal valve would be a piece of smooth 3mm rod threaded on one end for valve retainer and epoxied into the printed valve. Also, since the cams use threaded rod since i wanted to get rid of captive nuts/set screws, it was already on the materials list.

Nice job once again Eric. Keep it up!

OMG this is awesome. Please please please make a BMW S14 engine. If you research it you'll find out it has some awesome significant automotive racing history.

This is absolutely amazing!

you sir are amazing, once again, mind blown by your skills!

1jz/2jz model next?

All I can think of saying is "bowing down"! GREAT JOB!!!!!!!

You subaru drivers, just like my best friend who owns nothing but STIs. You guys wave at each other and love flying around corners at insane speeds.

Please do the AWD trans. Might as well do it since the Toyota came with one. Plus I know the Subaru community would absolutely love it.

Plus one for doing a full Transmission & rear diff ( especially the LSD ) - Great work so far ... :)

I really want to. I just need to find a blown transmission i ca take apart.

If you do a 5mt, which would be perfect for the ej20, you can find blown ones pretty often and fairly cheap. If you are looking for one within the US message me. I might be able to find you one relatively cheap, or at least put you in contact with somebody who can get you one. People practically give away the blown ones. I'd love to help in any way I can.

I haven't looked very hard but I haven't been able to find anything. I was just waiting for my friend, that has a WRX, to blow his transmission. Ha. I'm in the bay area, so if you have any connections or info that would help me acquire a blown one, it would be much appreciated.

Just as an FYI, the 5MT for the WRX/LGT/OBXT are pretty cheap, comparatively speaking. You could contact one of the JDM import companies and see if they would be willing to loan you one for engineering purposes.

Just as an FYI, the 5MT for the WRX/LGT/OBXT are pretty cheap, comparatively speaking. You could contact one of the JDM import companies and see if they would be willing to loan you one for engineering purposes.

Just as an FYI, the 5MT for the WRX/LGT/OBXT are pretty cheap, comparatively speaking. You could contact one of the JDM import companies and see if they would be willing to loan you one for engineering purposes.

Subaru sent me a new 6MT. Just gotta make instructions for it now.

i also have a prusa, my first 3d printer and trying to print this i am getting awful prints, Any chance you can list all your settings? id love to pring this

Layer height .2mm
Shell thickness 1.2mm
Bottom/Top thickness 0.8mm
Fill Density 25%
Print Speed 50 mm/s
Temp 190C
bed 60C
Nozzle .4mm

I've got fill at 8% making a nearly hollow engine block but still looks awesome. any chance to make a propeller gearbox for this? I've seen these engines used in gyroplanes quite interesting use though

Once again great work Eric. How about making the famous godzilla rb26dett engine? Let me know if you are interested. I am able to provide you with detailed pictures, specs, mesurements and everything you need.

Impressive work ! :O

Well, I might be crazy a bit and trust your model a lot, but i will print it in polycarbonate or might try the lost pla aluminium casting as this model is worth it and put it on a real efi to make it run on alcool.
gonna be fun to make all the gaskets on my laser cutter and see how long it will run.
i will post it on my new youtube channel soon(still need to finish the channel teaser first)
if you are curious my new channel is called PoNato Sphere(for Project or News around the orbit) ^-^
Thanks a lot for your awesome models. Also i did not filmed your 22re in acction but it lasted 7 min 23 seconds ^-^ but it actually did not melted but the crankshaft craked ;p
Thanks again and keep up

Work of art! Well done

Yet another amazing design. I looked through the parts list and did not see the timing belt used?
FYI, I had the intent with both this engine and the Toyota to make a set of cams to run on compressed air.
You can do it one of 2 ways. Run the current cams, but 1:1 to the crankshaft rotation making it intake and exhaust every stroke of the piston (2 stroking) or, for better looks, boolean join a rotated cam 180 degrees to make double lobes per journal 180 out.
Intake is still intake, but forcing air in rams the piston down, exhaust valve must open on the upstroke normally compression in a 4 cycle, now the exhaust in an air driven motor. Note, intake pressure is limited by the spring choice for the poppet valves. Stronger springs are higher air pressure that they can resist, but wear and friction on the cam and more force on the timing belt system, pulleys, etc.

Timing belt is a GT2 Belt that i spliced together with super glue for a close loop belt. Plan was to find a closed loop belt that fit the length but they are only available from china so it will take a while to get them.

Your designs are mind blowing. I printed a tiny version of your toyota engine and it amazes everyone I show. Then I pull the valve cover and start taking it apart and they can't believe it.

DUDE! This is so amazing. I have to print this since I have a Subaru. I could probably get you pictures of the transmission.

You made a fucking great job, be proud of it

I want to buy this how much cost it would be?

I can print you one for $800 (US) assembled and running as you see it here. Or $450 for all the printed parts and hardware. You would have to finish the parts and assemble.

Thank you for your reply

you did a great job I just love it . but the quote is quite high.how much you reduce it?
.I am sure will have much more business in very near future similar to this.at this point I want to have this for automobile 3d print sample,

Thank you

You want it to be printed ? You can buy it from the original maker, or you can ask someone to print this and pay back the matter like me, nothing illegal even if the Attribution is changed ;)

Thank you,how much you paid,here in india very few printers and no body reply me for the quotation.Han help or suggest.

Personnaly i sell things as much as it cost to me so i don't really make benefit even one euro (im in euro zone) but i make people pay what it cost me in electricity and material supply. So this full model can be between 70 to 200 euro, i don't precisly know but it depend on different parameter like the quality detail (heigh of layer) the density (hollow or filled at 100%), and wich plastic is used etc etc ;)
But personnaly just by looking i think it can be around 120 euros of work (electricity+plastic low cost)


ok, I am ready.how can we proceed further?How much time will it take.please include the shipping cost also,

About the shipping i don't know where is the precise destination, but it can go from 4Euro to 30 euro of shipping depending on the location, plus.
Because i'm the kind of maker that go extremly safe on what i'm making and for who i prefer have further conversation about everything like the transaction and else.
ByTheWay i'm open for further conversation but keep remember that the price i gae is just approximative, it can be less, it can be more depending on the precision of everypart i have to print


destination is mumbai india,since you have done this before I am sure you can quote the correct price.if any thing is missing from my side let me know.so we can began further.

Thank you

Actually when i delivered this to India I had the luck that someone i knew was going to the nearly same location so i haven't had to pay any transpor and everythings got deliver at the same time BUT, making it cost me time, plastic and i can't afford to make this without a garanty of transaction. IF you want to go further more, please contact me on my personnal mail adresses

Can you share you personal email adresse and skyp ID


I am waiting for your reply

Just go on my FB page ;) It's in description or
You just have to comment and i will reply to you don't worry :)

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