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BlacklightShaman

KUKA KR150 industrial robot scale model

by BlacklightShaman Jun 16, 2016
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I am printing one of these, but want to add a lot more detail. I have not been able to find any reference pictures for this particular model anywhere. The KR 150 all seem to have internal wiring through part "B"
Where can I find pics?

As said in description the model was made on original CAD files provided by KUKA. I would start from there and look for reference pictures on google or may be ask one of their resellers?

Thanks... Still looking... have yet to add decals (warning stickers) and wire in the mill head.
Thanks for sharing. It is a print that I really enjoyed making.

Nice to hear that. I always try to make parts easy to print and assemble. Thanks for posting your make!

what is the total height of assembled model?

would it be possible to create a welder, part , like a car production kuka?

It this thing able to be fitted with NEMA 17 motors for a working arm?

No without serious redesign. But if you scale this up 10x you can try to fit original motors ;)

Any recommendations for setting for the DE part? I tried several settings but i cant seem to find a way to free the last axis.

im using tevo tarantula 0.4 mm nozzle and could print moving hinges before, but this is really challenging. I will hate having all the axis working with one stuck!

what do you suggest?

My recommendations are as follow:

  1. reduce print speed to avoid vibrations
  2. reduce temperature to prevent interlocking parts weld together
  3. Use negative offset to make distances between parts larger (if you use Slic3r Prusa Edition the feature is called "XY Size Compensation" in tab "Advanced")
  4. Manually reduce flowrate during print

I know it's very challenging model and much depend on printer itself. If my advice doesn't help it always prints perfect on SLS :)

Good luck and have fun!
Bart

hi thanks for the answer..
i ended up edit it in meshmixer. i printed in 3 parts :

1 gripper base
2 Pivot axis
3 hinge

then, in inserted the hinge into the hole in the pivot and super glued the tip of the hinges to the inner sides of the gripper base.

it actually worked pretty well. i though icould maybe load this mod as a remix to your model. Do you agree?

Sure:) You don't have to ask; it's under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike license. But it's nice you respect other designers rights, I've seen the model on a large fairs without even crediting me. Would also love to see the pictures of your made in a section "I made one":)

Cheers,
Bart

i most certainly will - when its ready...

So I am going to print this model right now. It seems quite nice. Do you also have the option to make a electronic cabinet :D I got a real KUKA KR 150 and would like to have a 1:1 copy in a smaller version. Thank you!

Thanks for comment!

Actually I'm not going to remodel it for motors. It's under Creative Commons licence so it's free for modifications as long as you attribute original and share on the same licence. However I don't think redesigning it for motors would be a good idea - small robots are not exact copies of large robots, they differ in many ways. If one solution works great on large robot, it could be completely useless in small ones, and vice versa. There are planty of good designs of small DIY robots on Thingiverse and GrabCAD and Instructables.

Will this work at 80% scale?

Hard to say. I wouldn't recommend downscaling below 90%. Some people reported issues with printing even on full scale. The most neuralgic part is DE so checking it in slicing software should answer your question.

Hi, I love the design, and i'm currently prnting parts for it.
what did you use for the piston rod and what i presume is a hydraulic tube/electric cable? is it flexy filament or a type of wire?

Hi,

The cable tube is made from old usb cable. It's too stiff but I really couldn't find courrugated one such small diameter. Piston rod is PVC tube from RC shop 3.2 mm diameter. Hope it helps.

hey,
Yeah thanks for the reply, you could use something like 14 awg scilicon wire from hobbyking for example, its quite flexible.
i've printed the base, part A,B,C and DE so far, and it's come together pretty nicely.i do have a few notes for you tho, if you like to change them to allow people to print this awesome machine easier.
first off, it would be great if you could strengthen, even widen the three point joints primarily in part B, connecting to part A and C, maybe even put a little tension on the joint, since they run too freely if you like to pose the arm. the same is for the base to part A connection, its quite loose aswell, and as I rotate part A into the slot in the base, it levers part A up on the opposite side. I got the joint of A-B somewhat stiffer to turn by squeezing quite some paper in between the joint, still almost works itself out of the joint if i turn it, would be awesome if it were to be a better squeeze-fit.
perhaps something of a. M3 bolt and nut would allow people to ajust tension in the joints to their likings, and keep the arm segments lined up.
next up, i found the part DE is completely stuck on the joint, it's completely fused together. perhaps you could make the connection a little bit looser, 0,6mm play seems to be perfect for not perfectly calibrated machines like my own.

this is what i've found so far, i've really liked printing and putting it together tho, its an amazing design and i would not like it to be less awesome because of sloppy or not working joints, I hope you will see this as user's feedback and I hope you can fix this, so more people can make the most of this model.
I'll be sure to continue printing the pieces and finishing it in the coming days, hopefully you can upload some edited parts so it wil be a true desktop piece to be proud of.

Kind regards,
Demy

Hey,
Thanks for looooooooooooooooooong comment, I appreciate it:)
May be the connection method isn't perfect but it was intended to be fully printed (In fact I didn't want destroy beautiful look of this machine with unnecessary screws). A fit of printed parts is long story itself and it always depend of printer/filament/slicer combo, so it's almost impossible to suit all the types until parametric. I did the fit for Zortrax and I couldn't check it for other machines (I guess my Prusa would fail).
Causing by different model orientation on buildplate I ended up with some loose on base-A connection. I used acetone to punch pivot bolt on base to get enough friction but I know it's fast and dirty approach. Try also tinkering with offset value in slicing software (XY-compensation in Slic3r).

Wow, thanks for the fantastic modeling, I will check out z suite!

My printer is broken but when I fix it I'll print one and post a made! LOVE IT!

I'm going to guess this needs to be printed with supports? What settings would you recommend?

You're right Melchiorvester. I don't care much about settings since I started using Z-suite for preparing models. I made this on 0.14 layer height and 20 degrees overhang support, but the right settings vary depending on slicing software, material and machine. Some of you find different model orientation and print settings better. All in all this is not easy thing to print.

It is perfect. thank you.

I am freaking out at my office right now seeing this. I have been NEEDING to build one of these bad girls. Thank you.