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Wanhao Duplicator i3 120mm PSU Cover

by Korzar May 26, 2016
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Looks like a great design but the supports generated for the screw holes can't stand up on their own. Mine are falling over. Can you add something for the supports to build on?

What is the best fan for this mod? Specifically? There are so many choices!

How did you guys print this? Standing up? With "Everywhere" supports or "Touching Build plate" Supports.

is there a file with the incline plane on the bottom, keeping the top flat? i dug through the files and didn't see one... its kinda late at night and i might have missed it though.

I've remixed one for the same purpose: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351993

Wanhao Duplicator i3 120mm PSU Cover for Ikea Lack
Comments deleted.

Is there a video tutorial for doing this? I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

Just assembled mine. The PSU was a bit precarious to get back in without the cover, and my screws for my fan are just slightly not long enough (so I have it screwed in plus taped on the sides until I can get better screws). I had a Gentle Typhoon fan lying around I'm using it with and, wow, an improvement on noise! That fan is meant for watercooling (high static pressure) and it's definitely moving some air. Huge improvement over the stock fans for sure!

Has anyone made one similar to the Clint 45, but with the offset and with the plug on the right and wire group on the left? I have the wall outlet to my right and the printer to the left, so if someone has this kind of setup, that would be perfect.

If you need it that way you can take that same model and mirror it in your slicer before printing. In fact, I could have uploaded just half of the models if people used that option. I ended up putting them all because they end always asking about things like this.

Both Cura and Simplify3D have the mirror option. I guess other slicers have it too, but I haven't tested it.

Korzar, I am fine with mirroring and have done that before. I am looking for it with the offset so I can still have the flat bottom.

Oh sorry, my mistake. I understood something different. I have found the design files and made the modification for you.

The file is: Modification_for_drft240.stl

Let me know if that's what you wanted!

This looks awesome, thank you very much.

Thanks to you both! i have the same setup.

If I am going to mount my control box under my enclosure (so that the top of the control box is touching the bottom of the enclosure which of these would I use? It kind of looks like it makes the end a bit wider than the actual control box.

I think I would prefer the wires to exit to the left if looking at the front of the control box.

As the control box is 12W x 11H cm, you always need to have an offset, whether it's on the top and bottom or only on top (the ones I call "offset" versions here).

In conclusion, it won't make it wider, but taller.

Soooooooooooo Korzar.... :D

What would be the difficulty level of making an offset bottom version of these and is that something you would consider doing?

I've remixed one for under-mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351993

Wanhao Duplicator i3 120mm PSU Cover for Ikea Lack

Freakin' awesome! Thank you!

Ah, ok. Thanks!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do remove and put the power port back, do you have to take out all the pins at the back?

You have to take the spade connectors off and take the IEC socket out, of course. They can be a bit difficult to take off, so use a screwdriver to pry them off a bit.

You should be able to reuse the same screws to put it back in the new printed cover.

Printed the clint45-mod. Worked like a charm
A BIG thank you for this mod :)

You're welcome!

I printed one of these (came out great) then rearranged my desk and moved the PSU unit to the other side of the printer. I made this cap for the cable hole and cut a hole on the other side with a dremel. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010968

Wanhao Duplicator i3 120mm PSU Cover Insert

i would liked to have wall-power socket on the right side and other (output for printer) on the left side.. currently printing top-left B version.

My settings:
2 shells, 2 bottom layer, 3 top layers 30% infill with full layer every 25 layers.. with speed of 2100mm/min its 6hrs for me. Holes seems to fit on my Malyan M150, BUT corners aint as round as metal itself.. could you round them up a bit more? It might need 0.5 at lest off the corners (dont know what it would take with that tool, Fillet was it?)

How do I rotate this in Cura so it's flat and printing "up" on the "short" side? I select it and hit Rotate and it doesn't lay it down. It seems like I should print it with the Z height as low as possible, so laying down on the front face of the model. As it opens from the download.zip, the model is standing up, which seems like a harder-to-print orientation.

Hello there.

I don't know if you're the same Mike as in the Facebook group. In that case I guess your question has already been answered there :D.

Yup - thanks for getting back to me. I printed it overnight and towards the end, a trace burned on my board :( But, it finished and will go on the new one when I get it! :)

Will I have to splice right into the wire going into the stock fan in order to power the new one? Also, is it able to power any PC case fan such as the Noctua NF-S12A?

You can use any 12v 120mm fan you want. I'm not using the Noctua anymore as it's expensive (not worth for the task, really) and I borrowed it from my PC just for a while. In my case the original fan used a dupont connector directly hooked to the power supply output rail, so you just have to disconnect that and connect the new fan in.

Great. Thanks for the info!

This is a great mod but I have a suggestion for an improvement for anyone who wants easier access to the inside of the control box. I want to make the mount holes for the control box be accessible from outside of the shroud instead of inside. (Have the shroud indent a little at the 4 screw holes to the control box). That way you can attach and remove the shroud from the control box without having to remove the fan first. This will prevent the possibility of breaking the fan mounting holes when remounting the fan after. I will try to make these changes myself but I am brand new to 3d modeling. :)

please pm me, when you done this.

any link for a good fan?

Do you know if there is a version of it, that fit's the V1 of the control unit?

thanks a lot for making this model. the wanhao i3 is a great printer, but those stock fans in the control unit are just terribly loud.
the extension came out great and all mounting holes fit perfectly on my v2.1. the 120mm fan on the rear and the 60mm replacement fan inside the PSU make a huge difference in noise polution - highly recommended mod for this printer!

what were the original fans sizes used in the control box?

and what fan models/brands did you buy?

please post photos/links of the new fans you used if possible.

The original ones are:

40mm for the back of the control box (the black one).

60mm for the PSU inside (the silver one).

You don't really have to get an expensive fan for this mod. Any 120mm fan will work much better than the original ones. If you use this mod you can take the cover of the internal PSU off and leave it like that (getting rid of the internal fan, which is a bit noisy too).

Thanks for this model. I printed and installed it, using an old 120mm fan I had lying around. I also printed a 120mm fangrill (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71961) One small problem though: I printed a 'B' version where you have to drive the screws into the print itself. Using 20% infill and the recommended M4/40 screws I found that the screwholes came loose pretty easily. I've added some superglue in the holes to fix this. Otherwise it's perfect! I opened up the power supply itself and took out it's noisy fan too. To be on the save side I drilled some large holes in the PSU cover before putting it back on. Everything is peachy now!

Fan grill (Customizer)
by mbasov

Hi there. I have changed the recommended infill percentage from 25%-50% to 50% to prevent this. I have just printed one of these last versions I made (as the one I was using was an old one) and it seems to have worked pretty good at 50%.

You could have also increased the number of shells/solid perimeters, that usually helps to make holes stronger (I use 3). Keep in mind that, without tapping the holes previously, you always risk breaking the plastic. That's why I made the holes a bit bigger than they're supposed to be, so people can just run the screws and cut a thread with them without the need of additional tools.

Anyway, I'm glad it end up working for you. Thanks for the feedback!

THANK YOU, this is the best upgrade for user sanity.
In the order of upgrades that i recommend this is in the top 4.

  1. Thumb screws (v2 and older)
  2. Different hot end cooler (Thorped, Dii what ever)
  3. Z braces
  4. This or the 80mm fan, something to shut it up
    I cannot believe how quiet the printer is now. I used some cheap Cooler Master LED fan i had lying around, but i also had a voltage limiting connector that came with a Noctua fan (basically just adds a resistor on the 12v cord) The fan is silent est 600 rpm. But i feel air flowing out the side vents so i know its doing something. The only noise when i turn on the printer is the hiss from the extruder fan which im thinking of trying to find something quieter

did you remove the psu fan as well?

what fans are used inside the controller box and psu?
and what fans did you replace it with?

can you post pics/links of the fans you used?

I removed the entire top cover of the PSU, that way it gets the air flow it needs from the new 120mm fan.

The control box originally has 2 fans, a small rear fan and a slightly larger PSU fan, both are loud.

I used a cheap CoolerMaster LED fan i had lying around with a noctua speed reducer (has a small resistor in the connector to simply drop the voltage)

Use any modern 120 mm computer fan and you should be ok, alot of people use Noctua, but if anything go with a fan with high static pressure instead of high airflow
. As per removing the power supply cover, do so at you own risk,

If you do this mod AND replace the stock extruder fan (the 40 MM fan that is always on, that bolts to the extruder motor) with a 40 mm noctua, your printer will only make noise when it starts printing


Hopefully you're still 3d printing as this comment is old. If so I am doing this mod and want to replace or remove the psu shiny metal cover. However, I dont want to shock myself. Do you have any advice as to remove the cover with caution? How can I make sure the capacitor is discharged? And are there any other risk as to not having a PSU cover?

I have a 60mm fan I can use to replace the noisy stock one. Would it be better to replace the that fan or just remove the cover all together.

Thanks in advance.

Hi there!

If you're concerned about safety for leaving the PSU with no cover, you can print a vented one. The airflow with the new 120mm fan is going to be way more than enough to keep everything cool without any more fans. Check this one out:
Mine has been since I designed this part without a cover and there hasn't been any problems. Just try to keep all the wires tidy inside the control box.

As for the shock risk I suggest (while the printer is powered on but in stand by - not printing), unplugging it from the wall and letting it turn off by itself. That will drain most of the power from the capacitors inside the power supply. In any case, well designed power supplies have bleed resistors across the caps to prevent a shock risk. But better safe than sorry I guess.
Just let it turn off and wait 10 minutes before starting dissasembly. It will be more than enough.

I don't know if you were asking me about if I hd continued printing (as you're replying to another user) but the answer is yes! I bought the printer mainly to create my own practical parts, and it hasn't let me down since. I just don't upload most of the parts I design because they have a niche application.
Apart from this cooling mod, mine has been running for nearly 2 years with the following mods:

  • 230v heater (500W Keenovo heater to print in ABS) in a new aluminum bed (stock one was a bit warped).
  • New lighter and stiffer carriage plate from Tehnologika (4 bearing version with printed 45mm bearing holders in PETG).
  • Diicooler (printed in ABS).
  • Z braces from AzzA (also in PETG).
  • Adjustable Z stop inspired in some designs I've seen here.

After all that work it became a very reliable machine. I haven't bothered to tinker more with it as it feels like wasting money at this point. There are much better printers at a great price these days.

Sorry for the long answer. I hope I could help with your doubts.

Have a nice day!

Wanhao PSU vented cover
by Spatz0r

Thank you very much for your in depth reply and suggestions. Happy Printing!

MOFOE, what Korzar said sums it all up. Im not overly afraid of electricity, especially since the PSU is inside the control box. And i am still printing, its an addiction for me, i already build a 2nd print and parts for a 3rd are being gathered

what size was the original fans used in the psu and control box?

how do you connect/wire the new 120mm fan to the psu?

if possible please post some pictures + diagram

The fan that is on the back is 40mm, the psu fan is 60mm, and you can plug the fan into the plug where the old one is connected, as other have said its just 12v and ground coming from the power supply, but you can use a 3 or 4 pin fan , just double check before you turn on the power

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "double check"

So is the noise level much difference if I use an 80mm fan mod or 120mm fan mod?

Is the control box fan, or psu fan which one makes the loudest noise?

Also is the extruder and hotend fan as noisy as the control box/psu fans?
and should we replace it?

Wanhao i3 Back Plate for 80mm and 70mm Fan

Thanks for your comment! I'm also happier having more airflow inside the control box. There are some people that have had melty connectors with the stock fan!

melty connectors is not due to the fan

I think it is because they used the bad connectors that are not suitable..

First of all thanks for your effort and also for making so many different versions. Sadly the one I would like is missing.

It would be great if you can make a version like the one for clint45, but as offset and also flipped on the x-axis. So that when you look from the fan side, you got the power on the left and the cables running to the right.

Hi, I'll take a look at it when I'm back from holidays. I still have the files somewhere.

Hope you can wait a bit. I'll answer here when I'm finished.

Thank you very much, but I don't need that version anymore. Really hope that you haven't done it already. I burned my psu, so I switched to a standard atx psu. I will use one of your files, and just close the opening for the power connector and switch (which I don't need anymore).

Oh, that's bad luck, sorry to hear that!

As I'm back I'll make it anyway in a while. I should really have made a customizable cad file instead of all those STLs, but anyway, if people are happy then I am!

Glad to hear it was only the power supply what burned and not the controller board. Happy printing!

Thank you for making this

You're welcome! Thanks for using it.

Is there a way to slow the fan down? I used a 120mm 12vdc fan that I had left over from another project and it blows like a frickin' jet engine. You're going to tell me that I need to pop the $20 for a Noctua aren't you?

Not at all. I used the Noctua because I had some spare ones from my watercooled rig. I wouldn't recommend spending that much on a fan for this purpose. It's a waste.

If you were on a PC you could connect the fan to 7v using the 12v and 5v lines, but we only have a 12v power supply in the Wanhao.

The solution would be to use a resistor inline with the 12v rail going to the fan. Use these formulas to calculate it according to your fan's power draw. Keep in mind the power dissipation capabilities of the resistor you use or you will cook it (depending on the fan, of course)

Should the fan be with 3 or 2 pin connector?

The connector that comes with the PSU is a 2 pin. You can use fans with 2,3 or 4 pins, it doesn't matter as long as you match the +12V and GND pins between each other.

I'm using a Noctua NF-F12 PWM that has a 4 pin connector and I just use 2 of them that are together on one side.


Oh, thanks! I will get myself a few dollar 120mm fan and will post a picture of the PSU cover. Thanks a bunch!

You're welcome!

Thanks for making this design. Your execution, design, and documentation should be applauded. I'm aiming to build the Offset A Top Right. I do have to say that deciding between sixteen designs wrinkled my brain a bit, but you explained yourself well in the details. Cheers!

Thank you for your comment. I kind of went mad making all the different versions people requested, so now it's a bit more difficult to decide what you want, haha.

As always I'm open to suggestions to improve the design and solve any problems that may arise. Thanks!

Great mod. Ditched the PSU fan, removed the PSU cover and replaced with this for tidiness (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1623141) , replaced those extruder fans and enjoying the quite!

Wanhao PSU vented cover
by Spatz0r

I saw it in the Facebook group. Looks nice x). I'll print one for when I open the control box again.

Great job. Exactly what i need. Works fine. Thank you.

Fantastic work my friend you beat me to my next project so I thank you.

You're welcome!

Hi, I really like your design, but it would be great if you could make the power chord on the top. The cabels on right or left is already fine. Thanks!

Tell me which version would you like (A or B) and I'll make it for you. Choose also where do you want the cables that go to the printer to come out from.

There are many little variations that I don't want to add to the main thing page, so I'll just upload it in the files section.

Version A would be nice. Also the cables come out on the left. Thanks again!

Sooner than expected. I added your request. Tell me if that's what you wanted!

Yes! That's exactly as I wanted. Thank you very much!

I'll try to have it ready in a couple of days. I'll answer you here again. You're welcome!

Comments deleted.

Could you please make a version with power on the left side and cabel on the right side. That is something i have been looking for.

You can mirror image it with Cura.

clint_45, I added the version you requested. Take a look and tell me if that's what you needed.

This is also how I prefer it as power on the right is just asking for the SD card to get snapped off reaching back. Cable on the right is perfect though for my bench. Thanks for a great mod - silence at last!

I will look into that next week. I'm very busy for the weekend. Thanks for your suggestion!