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Circular cooling duct i3, Hessine M505, Anet A8 (MK8 based extruder)

by markwv May 7, 2016
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va como anillo al dedo sin tener que modificar nada

No way to print a good top layer. Never had problems with it before. Seems to be that the filament hasn´t enough contact with the walls. Seems that the hotend stops 1 - 2 mm before reaching the walls. The thickness for the bottom and top layer is 1.2 mm. So that are 6 layers. Maybe you can redesign it so that the walls are running a little bit up.

had a few issues with this... the top layer was not airtight and some of the walls as well. and when homing the duct would hit the z spring coupler and the machine would fail to home itself or rip the duct off.

I love this design, just can't get the thing to bridge on the top layer either lol has anyone had success yet that's had issues?

I had the same issue, going to try increasing the overlap as it seems some of the strings are not making a good connection and falling in or being pulled off on the return as suggested below?? I,m also going to increase the layer thickness

I got a non-solid top layer. It looks like the strings falls inside (maybe that's what you meant by the need of decent bridging?).
What can I do to fix it?

This has most likely to do with your printers' bridging ability indeed.

There are a lot of variables at play here, so it is hard to say what might be the cause. Some general things that I experienced:

  • Don't try to bridge too slow or the strings will sag.
  • The same if you print too hot or without sufficient cooling.
  • Don't try to print too fast, the strings will break.
  • The same if you print too cold.
  • Make sure you have enough overlap with the perimeters to avoid the string getting pulled loose on the return direction.



Which material did you use?

I have made them both in PLA and ABS. I would recommend to use ABS if you are planning to print ABS parts and use a hot bed. A PLA cooling duct with a hot bed set for ABS will result in a deformed duct.