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MK8 i3 - 50mm Radial Circular Fan Shroud

by XDr4g0nX May 4, 2016
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Original print was slightly off.

Below are images before and after attaching the extruder fan.

I'm going to try printing the fan extruder again for a better fit.

Thanks for the great before and after shots, they'll help a lot of people see why proper cooling is important.

Hi, my name is Arnaud and I try to connect the same sensor (I wish/suppose): https://www.reprap-france.com/produit/1234568482-capteur-capacitif-12mm with this additionnal board : https://www.reprap-france.com/produit/1234568387-carte-dinterfacage-de-capteur-inductifcapacitif

Could you explain me how do you plugg your sensor on your GT2560 board ? I'm a very beginner... :) and I don't understant how it works...

Thanks a lot, Arnaud.

If i see this correctly you will need to provide the right side of the board with +12V, +5V and a GND connection and you can connect the sensor to the left side of the board on the 3 pin connector.

You will only need 1 pin to go from your board to the GT2560 endstop pin (any of the Z-MIN pins will do).

Have a look at this video from Thomas Sanladerer, he explains how to connect a sensor straight to your control board without the use of a optocoupler board in between.

I'm very sorry but I can't see what do you mean... Is it possible for you to draw me a picture ?... :) I know, I ask a lot... :)

There is a lot of information provided by other users, a whole lot of it on the GEEETech forums.

This topic gives a example diagram of how to connect the sensor.
Also Google has a lot of information

Hi XDr4g0nX:

Thanks for the files. I had a problem with the print. The sensor support is floating in the air and when the printer was in this part was a mess, I must to abort the print and really I don't know how to fix the problem, I tried to rotate the piece to let everything supported in the bed but always there are floating parts. Can you please help me? Thanks in advance

You will need support for the print, in your slicer you must select the option for support that is called "from buildplatform only" otherwise the support will also generate inside of the fan duct itself.

I'm aware of some slicers do not have this option, I will see if I can find a solution for this.
In the meantime you can try and point a normal fan at the print to cool the unsupported area and giving you a higher chance of success.

Hi, very nice !
-With that fan added, do you have to modify the PID of the printer?
-Do you know any tutorial for adding the cooling fan with sanguinololu? or is it possible to simply change the board for GT2560 only?
thank you

Thank you for the kind words.

It would be advisable to indeed adjust your PiD after mounting any type of cooling fan, do keep the fan on during the PiD tuning though. Otherwise the PiD before and after makes no real difference.

As for adding a fan to a Sanguinololu, I do not think that is directly possible without quite an extensive amount of modding.
Changing boards is always an option, do keep in mind that you might need to swap out some connectors and change your firmware as well.

Thank you for the quick reply,
I have no problem to change connector and uploading firmware.
Where can I buy one? (The best place) Do I only have to get the GT board or i have to get more stuff?
For example, all the steppers motors board will fit on the new GT? (I have everything to solder and modify I play alot with arduino)
Forgive me for my syntax, english is my second

Your English is fine mate, I've read way worse. ;)

The GT2560 is available from a lot of places, I found that Banggood has the cheapest source.
And you should be able to transfer your stepper drivers dirrectly from your Sanguinololu to the GT2560.

Perfect! Thank you very much. It took me 1 minute to buy the new board

I thought this would be great addition to my new printer, but the probe mount was a total failure for me. All of the filament printed in mid-air just fell to the plate, so I aborted the print after a lot of waste.
This is only my third print, so I don't know what to do to print it successfully.
I'm assuming if i had a fan shroud like this already, it would have had a better chance of success.
Maybe i missed the comments, but it doesn't seem like this is a general problem. I didn't notice any pointers on how to avoid it either.

Did you think about creating a dual extruder version?

I have not, mainly because I do not foresee myself using a dual extruder/hotend setup in the future.
I am however willing to try and adapt the model to suit a dual extruder/hotend version if provided some measurements of the setup.

Hello, how do you plug the fan on the gt2560?

The GT2560 has 4 fan outputs of which FAN4 is PWM driven via gcode.

Then measure the output voltages on the pins, which should be 0v,0v,12v. The left 0V is de PWM read rail which is unused, the second is the GND/gnd and the third one is the positive voltage.

Ok thank you, I didn't know that I could set non pwm fan speed with pwm output!
So I just have to set up speed in repetier?

And thank you for the item, it fits perfectly on the printer!

You can indeed, what is then does is pulse the fan up to speed.

The code for FAN ON is M106, but you can give an attribute to it with the S command.
"M106 S255" would be the same as "M106"
"M106 S0" would be the same as "M107" which is FAN OFF, because it does not drive the fan anymore so it is considered for us to be off.
"M106 S128" would be driving the fan at about 50% power for it is halfway in the possible cycle between 0-255.

Did someone noticed any improvement over a simple fan in from of the printer ?

I was using a fan in front on the printer, and a small fan behind. Then I switch to this shroud with no other fan. The print quality is roughly the same for me.

The mounted fans are mostly for big overhangs and bridging, because the airflow is much more focused then a normal fan in front of the printer.
And with using a fan in front of your printer the heated bed (if using one) will have to kick it up a notch more which consumes more power compared to a single fan that is right over the nozzle.

Yes, the heated bed suffered from my previous setup. I will try some bridges…

Thanks for your design, I was doing one because I could'n find one when I saw your. Maybe I'll try to reprint your shroud with itself mounted, because my printer had hard time printing the bridges over the "ring". Bridges are fantastic at 198°, but I have some under extrusion problems that forced me to print at 213°, and at that temperature bridges are real pain.

Bridges are better, clearly.

On the other hand, warping (on top of the printing) is worse on the back side (opposite to the fan). The wind is way stronger on the front than on the back.

At what speed do you have your fan? And at what temperature your nozzle?
This sounds to me that you might be printing too hot and that during retraction it pulls the end of the layer with it upwards.

The fan is at full (external power, 12V). The temperature is 213° (I have under extrusion with a temp under 207). PLA.

A 50mm radial fan at full power might be a bit overkill for PLA, I print PLA using 190° for the hotend, a 50° bed and fan at 30-50% max.
Try reducing your fan speed to about half except for bridging/overhangs.

Thanks for the tips, I'll try this evening.

I printed the one without sensor-holder and it works great after rotating the hotend.

I have the 3dTouch

So I must design the mount to fit (unless you can provide a new model)

BR - UndCon

Great to hear that UndCon.

I unfortunately do not have a 3DTouch sensor to model after to incorporate into my design.
I could give it a spin if you could provide me with a model of a 3DTouch sensor.

It would be great to have this fan shroud with BLTouch/3DTouch mount!

Dummy here:

Measurements here:

This mount fits this printer:

Edit: The mounting holes could be oval so it is possible to move the shroud up and down.

BLTouch auto leveling sensor (dummy prop)

Hi! Could you please provide the original file so I can modify it?

BR - UndCon


May you please tell me some details about the fan. I am searching on ebay, and there is a lot of different ones...

Many thanks.

Hi nounours_2099,

It's a 50mm radial fan and has a thickness of 15mm, the only thing you will probably have to change is the connector of the fan that goes to your control board.
Mine had the stock PC fan header plug on the end, but my GT2560 needed those small 2S connectors which I removed from the original fan and soldered to mine.

This is one of the fans that you could use;

Hope this helps.

Please can you check the V2 design, the air intake seems to be solid at the bottom.

Thanks for the warning, I have checked it and corrected the model. It should print fine now.

I printed this one:

And it made supports inside where the air flows so it got all blocked!

Doublecheck your support settings and make sure you only use "From buildplate" support, otherwise it will indeed generate support on the inside that will be nearly impossible to remove.

Yes I will do that when I get back from work, overall it seems good, i cut it apart with a sharpie to have a look inside - was totally blocked with supports BTW, i'll use it on my Geeetech I3 pro B

Will it work with Geetech I3B Metal?

Yes it wil, the printer I have designed it for is that exact model.
So as long as you have the metal X-axis carrier with the 2 mounting holes in the front you will be able to use this shroud.

Thanks, I will try it on my i3 :)

Well I printed this for my Geeetech i3 Aluminum and it does not work at all :(. The throat isn't in the middle of the hole so I guess I'll have to try and fix it so it will work.

The throat indeed is not centered but more to the back of the fan circle.
I have designed it this way because the air flow in the front of the circle where the air arrives is stronger then in the back where it has to travel around the circle to arrive to the nozzle and slightly loses effeciency.

Well none of the mounting hole line up either. I'd have to move it about 1/2" left for the fan circle to be around the extruded nozzle. Your plexi version must have a different carrier than the aluminum version.

Could you take a picture of your carrier and hotend? I'm very puzzled why it does not fit for your MK8 extruder and it does with mine and others.

The actual carrier type that is on my printer (and this shroud fits on) is this one;
As far as my understanding goes there is only one version of that MK8 metal carrier.

Here are photos.


You can see how my throat is to the left of the 2 mounting holes so it does not line up no matter how I arrange the heater block.

Ah! Your aluminum mounting block is mounted mirrored from mine.

The mounting block is symetrical and can be mounted the way you have it right now, but also so that the throat is slightly more to the right so that my shroud design would fit.

Any ideas on how to make it work for me?

Just flip your aluminum mounting block, that way the nozzle slides a bit to the right and the shroud will fit.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/4NgAAOSwAvJW8gPj/s-l300.jpg (This block)

It is almost perfectly mirrored so that if you mount the mounting block upside down the throat and nozzle just move over.
You may only need to adjust your print area and home position after flipping the block because of the new nozzle position.

It works great now! I posted a Made pic.

This looks perfect for my printer however the mount for the sensor is 18mm. I need a 12mm mount for the sensor i am using. Can you release a 12mm version of this? Also, how would the sensor version print without supports?

I'm on my last couple of vacation days, i'll be home late on thursday.
I'll make a 12mm version for you.

I would suggest printing it with support, without support the sensor mount would probably have too much of a overhang to print.

Many thanks, i downloaded the 12mm version and it prints perfectly with support.


Great idea gonna print this soon!

What Z probe offsets did you use in configuration.h --> Auto leveling?

Thanks, I hope it works for you as it did for me.
If you do make it, show me your Make, I'd love to see it.

The offsets I used were;
X-Offset = -25
Y-Offset = -45
Of course the Z-Offset depends on the mounting height of your sensor and normal bed level height.