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by muzz64 Apr 17, 2016
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Awesome Design Muzz! I to had an issue with the top of the casing filing in. The Bullet threads printed 100%. Using Cura on Prusa I3. I'm going to take it down and bore it on my lathe this afternoon. This issue is driving me crazy. Cura shows threads in the casing but yet filled them in for some reason.

Sorry to hear you're having issues... but it's not the first time with this type of design. Unfortunately (my observasion) is that the common factor is Cura. I've previously checked the files but no issues there and they are fine with other slicing apps.

One thing you can try is rotating the part in Cura before slicing it. Try 45 and 90 degrees. This should force Cura to develop the tool path differentlyrics. Worth a try. .. uniformly scaling both parts up by 2-3% could have a similar effect.

I hope this helps. ..

Just a quick note.

When printing at .0125mm, I noticed a small design issue.
The bottom of the chamber is not entirely flat. This may be a result of the multiple skirts generated when printing the base.

I am going to convert these to salt & pepper shakers. Will make necessary changes and post.

Could you maybe put a link to that on here? Unfortunately muzz64 doesn't allow derivatives, which to me just screams "STEAL ME AND DON'T GIVE CREDIT TO THE ORIGINAL!!!"

My licence terms have been applied because I was getting reports from all around the world of people selling prints of my designs in reasonable numbers and for quite significant sums of money with not even a token royalty coming back to me let alone any acknowledgement. I'm not doing this for the money, and trust me it consumes an immense amount of time, effort and energy, and I'm happy for individuals to print my designs for their own use and fun... but not so pleased when others are profiting from it witout coming to a fair arrangement. I hope that explains my position on this...

All the best

No profit. Just playing.

I understand and respect using a non-commercial license, that's the only license I use, I just can't fathom why you don't allow derivatives.

....because from past experience I end up with a lot of communication from people asking for support when the derivative fails to print well for them. I assume they go back to whoever posted the derivative first or as well however if I am listed as the originator I'm always on the 'contact list' for issues.

I test print everything I post multiple times and there are still people who have issues... not all slicing apps and machines print as well as others.

I'm happy to assist people where I can but in all too many instances I found he derivative compromised the mesh etc. so there were issues with the file. Obviously it's not so easy to solve issues related to other people's work... I'm not saying this happens in all cases however I can get 50+ messages a day from Thingiverse as it is so need to control things.

Hopefully you can appreciate my situation...

I just posted the files. You have to print 2 of the bottoms. I made the pepper top with 3 holes and the salt top with 4 holes.

thingiverse site. Give me a few minutes, I will post it on my website.

i really want to print this out but my Robo is running matter control and it infills the threads, if you can make one that might work for MC that would be nice.

Had to try it on my Robo R1+ to see what mine did ( run matter control as well and use matter slicer in it). Threads on the top came out good, in the bottom not some much. Did weird things. So I sanded it and it just slides in now. I printed a dozen of these little barrels for a daughters school projects and the threads on both top and barrel came out fine. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766085

Whisky Barrel for Glencairn-glass
by Kejser

This is just to show the weirdness of the threads on the base in Matter control. This was the first 4 threads.
(but I have to say no complaints at all what so ever with any of your designs. Some work on my printer some don't -- just weirdess between printers and slicers)

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the Matter Control app but it sounds like it can't deal with fine continuous features like threads. As a suggestion try scaling the design up a bit to help the app see the detail/ (Try 10%). Rotating it on the apps build plate may also help as that will change the tool path.

If that doesn't work I can edit the design so it is just a slip in cap... but being threaded is best. Have a go and maybe the scaling / rotating resolves it. .

I'm trying to recreate this, i was wondering what type of shreds you were using for the casing and what program you are using.
thats -Max

Not sure why you would want to or need to recreate this but please explain further as I'm not sure what you mean by "shreds" and max comment.


Ok, so you know how a lot of people have problems with the casing not printing hollow and how it puts infil at the top. I was curious to see if it was just your .Stl or something with the MC program, so I made the casing exactly the same but I can't get the threads for the casings to come through on my .Stl so I was wondering what type of threads you were using.

And I ment thanks -Max

This was all designed in Rhino and they print really well for many people. The issues others have appears to be with their slicing app doing things you don't want it to do. They don't seem to be able to deal with the fine detail in threads like this. The thread itself is drawn up by creating the male and female faces and creating a spiral / helix surface. From memory it is 1.5mm pitch. This isn't rocket science but clearly beyond what some software and/or machines can deal with. My MakerBot's print these without issues every time. It's the same .stl's uploaded... that tells you it's not the file as the images posted clearly show.

Changing the scale (increase) uniformly may help as could rotating the design in your slicing app as that will change the tool path. However, if the software simply isn't seeing that it needs to be hollow and that the detail is threads then try a different app as it is limiting what you will be able to print now and in the future....

Well since you are running a Makerbot not every one want's or can afford one other people have different printers and slicing programs, If you make It In a different designee program it might make the .stl file into a better fit for some people's slicer. I am using fusion 360 so I was just wondering if you used a thread or made your own.
Thanks for the info I will see what I can do.


Exported stl''s are all written in the same way... they are really just a huge number of coordinates that defines points. A large number of people have sliced and printed this with no issues and using a broad array of apps and machines. Very few people have any problems with any of my 160+ designs... and I'm talking about 15 -20,000 downloads a month. Considering the number with no issues compared to the occasional one that does I don't see any sense in changing my software (which is a professional and expensive package ) or design process.

I suggest you change your slicing app. Many people use Cura or Slic3rd which I believe are free and have to assume are superior to what you are using.

Lastly.... I draw my own threads up in my Rhino design program . . It's easy and work well.

got it. I have made a similar replica, I got rid of your logo and changed the threads and bullet. I did not add the chamfer from the casing to the bullet because that was kinda useless. it did not print infill at the top so i was right. it was something to do with the .Stl. and don't you think somethings wrong when you have a little over 1000 downloads and only 7 people made one :P there might be a problem there buddy.

Pleased to hear you got a good result in the end however you might as well have designed it yourself from scratch based on what you've explained.

Through frustration over this I printed another two today on different machines and using the same stl with no problems. The mesh checks out perfectly in my mesh checking tool... there is no issue for me. In addition, and sorry to disappoint you, but I know for a fact hundreds of people have printed this fine. Yes only seven have reported that they made one but most people don't update this for every print they do. To prove this point, one of my other designs (Sharkz) has had almost 46,000 downloads... I get sent photos of them every day from all over the world... but there are only 445 reports of "I printed one".

The bottom line is my photos tell all. They print great for me and many others. There is nothing wrong with the stl's for the slicing app I am using or the machines I'm using. If your slicing app has or machine has a problem with that then I can't do much about it. I go to considerable lengths to ensure my designs work well for most users and try and help resolve issues on the odd occasions they occur for some people... but I test print "everything" multiple times before posting anything. I can't say more than that.

1st I did start front square 1 with the CAD as you did not include a file that I could transfer over to fusion 360, and just because you printed it ONE different printer dose no justes considering there are thousands of homemade and consumer available printers out there. And you know for a fact you are 100% sure that people have printed this perfectly with no troubles at all.

In regards to your other model that is a simple model, basically a test print to make sure your bed is level and you are not having any Z banding issues.

Like I said befor there are so many people that have different printers and you have 1 or 2 and you say your photos say it all. I do not think your right. Other people have different slicers that do different things and use different settings. I have been on thingivers cense I was 10 and started printing when I was 11 I am now 14 and being on thingivers for that long downloading thousands if not hundreds of thousands of files the only real issue I have had is the model is to small or too big. So when I ran into your thing and tried to print it I was amazed as if what had happened.

I have printed many models similar to yours and have had no issues. Once I have finished my .Stl I will post a remix just because I'm a white guy.

Thanks for all the help. I think we should leave it here as it is getting long and going down a dark path. Now if you want you can think you have won this argument because you are older and think you know more than me, and you might but just letting you know that I am not just some rich kid that is selfish and stubborn I worked hard for how far I have come and so have you. Now if you would like to continue this I would highly suggest that you message me instead so we don't make ourselfs look like idiots out here

So have a nice morning/afternoon/night where ever you are.

I am not wanting to "stir the pot" so to speak, but I have a really cheap flSun Prusa i3 clone, factory pulley model, and my Anycubic Delta Linear Plus.

1 Cartesian (super cheap in every way), 1 Delta (stock).

I have successfully printed this on both printers using 3 different slicers.

Repetier using slic3r and cura.
Cura exp directly to SD (I suggest for all prints.
Simplify3D (my go-to / debugger)

I have have ran into your particular issue a few times on both printers, however this is NOT the fault of the creator, simply a slicer settings issue.

Ensure that your slicer is not running the speed too fast, this can cause z height issues on intricate threads. Some slice settings are integral to certain kinds of prints and printers.

Well i do not think that your logic is right with the .stl, like i said before i am curious to see what would happen if i recreated it. So i will see what i can do.
Thanks -Max

Came here to see if anyone else was having issues printing the cartridge portion of this Thing, but then I saw this thread of comments and I feel better now.

garfi3ld i used craftware and it came out great:)

Has anyone else had issues with this print in the threads area. I'm using Mattercontrol and I tried using multiple slicers and its filling in the space in the threads on all of them. The rest of the print comes out great, but the top being mostly solid (and like an inch thick) makes it hard to put things in it.

This has to be your slicing app not recognising the inside of the cap is meant to be hollow...

For sure, it's just weird that I used all three slicers and ran into the same issue. Was just curious if anyone else had the issue. I haven't had any trouble with any other prints including a bunch of your designs, just an odd ball. To answer the other person, I wasn't running any supports.

Try rotating it on the build plate in your slicing app. That will change the tool path which may resolve whatever it's not seeing...sometimes silly little things like this can overcome issues like this.

Sounds like a support material issue...try a different program.

I really like using the shell casing as a storage container but would like to have a flat cap in place of the cone. could this easily be added?

Easy enough to do.... but then it doesn't represent a bullet as well. It sounds like you just want a round container with a cap but does it need to be screw on.... as I'm already working on a new design along these lines

The problem I have is the complete bullet could represent something other than a bullet, as were the shell casing alone does not. Setting this out on desk has raised a few questions in the office..... I was hoping to get a flat screw on cap in place of the cone so it would just look like a shell casing and not raise as many questions.

flat cap stl added... I haven't test printed it but it should work fine. Hope it does the job...

Understood... I'll try and get a 'flat cap' file added soon

Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

printed at 50% the base part was full of pla filament wire :( like if the angle was too much and the filament couldn't grab to the previous layer

That could be caused by a number of things from poor quality / old filament to the slicing app or machine set up. Please check the settings in the instructions provided... these print great on my Makerbot's and lots of other people have also had great results (refer posts) so it has to be a machine set up, app or filament issue. The walls are thin so you need high infill. Also, as you're having issues, make sure you print it in the centre of the build plate and watch to make sure the print is staying well stuck down. The contact area is not great and movement will obviously spoil your print. Hopefully this helps... when they print well they are a really great thing!

this is beautiful. I plan on printing a few the second my printer is free.

Thanks... they are seriously cool!

how well do these scale down? im not really interested in the threads so i can deal with them being ruined.

If you're not worried about the threads going down by 50 % should be okay but much less than that and the wall thickness will start getting too thin.