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SCOUTcorexy 3D Printer (square aluminum tube frame, scout-tower-like corner nodes, dual-support Z, lots of adjustability to compensate for construction errors)

by mbthor Apr 13, 2016
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What's the logic behind the shift from vertical to horizontal x axis?

Interesting idea using the belt in Z. Though there are excellent reasons why its not done. In my Hephaestus own-design CoreXY I used motors in opposing corners and belts to operate 4 leadscrews- 1 per corner. Excellent stability and control. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fdz7ro_PkM

Just uploaded the most recent version with horizontal X rods and lots and lots of changes from overall size of the frame members to tweaking the belt length so now the XY belts are 1.5m each and Z is 2m => 5m roll in standard size... Still working on things I am not satisfied with ...but I am getting closer...

Nice design and i hope you make it true fast :).

A small advise, if you want the Z Axis do it with lead screw because with the belt in every print you will raise it with hands and at the end it wall fall.

Is not so much expensive and little modification to design.

3 Linear guides for Z Axis is to much in my oppinion.

I think i would try to make the parts more simple so you could print them easier with not much support e.t.c.

Thanks for chiming in. I have thought a lot about many variations before choosing dual supported (not cantilevered) and dual actuated (belt supports both sides) Z. With leadscrew I'd have to have 2 of them with one belt and GT2 pulleys the system will get way too complicated.

Regarding falling that should only happen if power is cutoff but raising by hand? Why?... Motor can bring it up till it triggers the probe or endstop...

Yeah it can the motor but you shall wait :).

2 Leadscrew is enough for Z axis no need belt and pulleys.

I take Leadscrew 8mm and coupler 5mmx8mm and i don't even machine it, work like a charm.

2 leadscrews and no belt means 2 motors for Z, which is kind of a waste for an axis that moves so slow. Maybe I will end up with leadscrews but for this one I am going to try belt and 0.9deg motor (gearing will be added later if necessary -gearing will also prevent it to fall like a rock :) ).

True..your design is good and you choose i just say my opinion :)

I appreciate it very much. I know the trend is to go to simple albeit more expensive parts like leadscrews and aluminum parts but this is intended to be an experiment in low cost for good performance. Most of the stuff used in 3d printers is actually CNC-grade (leadscrew, aluminum extrusions) and 3d printers actually can work with less complex and les strong stuff (alu tube, plastic parts,etc).

I am still scratching my head to make the parts simpler but can't for the life of me to do any better. All parts have features that can accommodate errors in construction so that it can be done with simple tools.

Thanks again.

While I agree overall with the sentiment of using cheaper (and less overqualified) materials there ARE reasons the ones used are used. The aluminium rods as you mention are a poor idea because of the relative hardness of the linear bearings (unless IGES) and they'd scratch and dent. But yeah, I built my machine with aluminium V-slot and later considered that the card right-angled units used for pallet stacking would make an interesting alternative.

The rods are hardened steel and the bearings are LM10LUU for the resto of the printer and LM10UU for the XCarriage. The rest of the printer is aluminum tubing 20x20x1.5mm. Unfortunately the aluminum tubes are not straight enough nor strong enough to be used as linear guides. Do a search for @MiltyKoss and his new -and innovative approach for T-slot made linear guides.

A very interesting design! Thanks for that link! I'll certainly think about it further as regards improving my Hephaestus. Yes, its a shame that such "scaffolding" isn't always accurate! Mind you that's why you pay premium for precision tolerancing.

Hi, I really like your design!
Can you please explain how long the 20x20 tubes have to be ... Are there different lengths (for example red, blue, yellow?)

Don't forget to "Like" the design if you find it interesting :)

Hello, glad you like it. There is no default length for the tubes, it all depends on the build volume you need and the amount of tube you want to be hanging outside of the mandatory lengths - you might want that for some face panels, etc.
I have designed it around the following Smooth Rod length values: X 340mm, Y 350mm, Z 370mm. I haven't worked out all details to be able to release a BOM or some dimensions but they will be quite liberal.

In my case I have:
for X: 340mm 8mm Rods => Red Tube should be about 450mm
for Y: 350mm 10mm Rods => Yellow Tube should be about the same 450mm
for Z: 370mm 10mm Rods => Blue Tube should be about 365 + what goes above the CoreXY plane + what goes below (the feet of the frame), so about 520mm

For these values I get a conservative print volume of about 275(Xmm)x290mm(Y)x295mm(Z). Take this with a grain of salt, I haven't exactly measured this. Note: this is for the double bowden, it will be different for single hotend or other X Carriage configuration.

Also don't forget to "Like" the design if you appreciate it, it helps me a lot to see people are interested. Also if anyone wants to help prototyping it, I see it as a good way to get the design finished/developed more quickly. I will be pretty slow to present a prototype due to busy life and jobs that are not in the same place for long.