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mrbaddeley

DRIOD BODY R2D2 Star Wars

by mrbaddeley Apr 9, 2016
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Do you have this print frame in one solid file? I have a CR10 S5 and can likely print most of the frame in one piece. Thanks for all the work.

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you can have the assembly instructions of this version I printed everything but I can not assemble thanks

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Is it possible that you can make more complete stl files like the complete Dome you have on your Drive account ?

I want to do a complete 50% modell and have a big printer :)

So I'm a little confused, I'm thinking of starting my own Astromech not sure if it'll just be a static on display build or some limited functions. But is this the section I wanna start at or is there somewhere else? Are there sections of files you have I should avoid or do I need to print all of that stuff you've designed?

Hi, this is version 1, an older version of the build. I keep it on as some are still printing it but I don’t really update the Thingiverse files anymore. I would strongly recommend using version 2 filels, all the parts are available and the build is quicker and much easier with better results and more features. Do not use Thingiverse but check out my Patreon page (there’s also a forum) https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley All the files and instructions are in a OneDrive share which is in the ‘about’ text. All files shared openly and freely, the Patreon is purely for people who want to support the projects but isn’t mandatory. Any problems or help drop me a message on Patreon.

hello
please give me od silver bullet for rotating flange (dome)
regards
david

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Hi,

In awe of your work and can't wait to get started on this (when my printer finally arrives!)

Will the 220mm x 220mm x 240mm Anet A8 build plate be big enough?

Also, how many 1kg rolls of filament do you think I'll need for a full r2d2?

Thanks

Hi there, about to release a new body, this takes around 6-7 reels for the body including the skins. The dome can be done in 4-5. I am going to redesign the legs also. The plan is to keep the weight down both for cost and efficiency.

Thanks for the quick reply :-)

Good to see a fellow UK resident too.

Where can i found a build log for the frame?!!? :-)

Hi, I don't have one however the mightyjabba on YouTube has done a video on the build (1st one was the dome, 2nd the frame). Also the build is a modified version of James Bruton, again on YouTube his build videos are superb so check the R5D4 3D printed build. I am doing a version 2, just printed the first part of the frame which is s new design combining frame and skins. Not released files until I've printed and tested them so no timescales yet.

You are doing a V2 of the R2D2 or you are doing a R5D4 now? Is your R2 Bluetooth video a 3d printed version of R2 you did? Thanks for all the work you are doing

My V2 is a complete redesign. I'm doing another R2 but have the R5 dome also available. All my videos are of completely 3d printed droids (never made by any other method). Here's V2 so far https://youtu.be/pC0ntPEgRbs all files shared on my Patreon page https://www.patreon.com/user?u=4294285

Thank you for all the help and answering all our questions, you are a gentleman sir. Your stuff is great. So if the V2 is on your page I will go with that then, and get around to making a donation! I been wanting to build one of these for years and so surprised to see I can 3d print this, just wonderful!

What do you recommend for glueing the parts of the frame?!

I use JB Weld, never fails so far with PLA but it gets messy

Hi, I only use ABS so chemical welding with acetone is my choice every time. For PLA I've heard expoxy glue or super glue works but never tested it.

I don't think super glue would work well for this project. I've had mixed success with it even just doing regular models, and you really need a strong and seamless bond. I haven't used any accelerators or anything like that though, so it's possible I just don't know what I'm doing.

Epoxy glue does work, and I use it, but it can be difficult to work with. I've also started using Weld-On Acrylic Adhesive #4, which works similarly to the way acetone works with PLA, but in some cases I've had trouble with it not bonding correctly. I think the issue is that the Weld-On really needs there to be no gaps at all between the surfaces, while epoxy will fill in gaps to some degree (this can also be a problem, though, since you will get oozing with epoxy).

Love this project! Been printing away and your work is exceptional!

Would styrene or aluminum cut CS:R skins work on this body frame?

The printed skins are 6 mm thick, I think the Styrene are typically two layer of 1mm (check with the Astromech site). It would work, just needs some spacers on the frame 3.5mm - 4mm I would guess.

Great work!!!! I'm printing it scale it down just a little, or won't fit in my 3d vertex!!! Which head/dome can i use? Can i found here on thingiverse?

Yeah, both R2D2 and R5D4 domes are available on my page, check the designs.

Again great works!!!! The frame and dome are on the same scale?! If i print all the parts of the frame, dome and other parts you have i'll have no compatibility problem? Thanks!

Yeah, all sane scale. My R2 is fully printed only with these files. The frame is made for 6mm printed skins so you would need to use spacers if you went for (easier) styrene rather than printed.

Help. Ok I have come across a problem with the left shoulder 1-1revised. there is a triangular Void in the design and It prints it beautifully every this. I Bring the File up in Simplify3d and there it is. its not on the Right Shoulder 1-1Revised. So what do I do? Help! thanks in advance. Picture will be in the I made section

Hi, I've fixed the file now (I think). There's two files, left shoulder 1-1revised which should be OK, if this has problems try the left shoulder 1-1 revised fix file (the fix file is a mirror of the right shoulder and the revised is a fixed mesh but they should both work... You only need one.

I personnally think you should make a plan how to assemble it ;)

hi... can you tell me the infill percentage do you recommend to print the Shoulder parts ??
thanks

So on the Legs support frame, I have a Dremel and A Flash Forge. so for some of the Support frame the bed is too small. So i made a Wooden Bed 12in instead of the 9in one.. works perfect, in the Dremel

Brilliant! Well done.

Hello... can you tell me the size of the bb's that I should use inside the lazy susan mechanism ?
9,56mm or 10,5mm ?..
thanks!

hey mrbaddeley what would the best infill settings should be for the shoulders?

Hiya, I printed mine at 40% for the shoulders (not the horseshoes but the load bearing bits of the shoulder). 10 to 15% generally with 40% for anything which takes strain. 100% for load bearing gears and the shoulder to foot strut / bar.

In ABS, not sure for PLA as I don't use it.

I'm using PLA and, for this particular set of parts, I printed most of them at 35%. Anything with teeth, or takes stress (shoulders, motor bracket), I printed at 80%.

Skirts were printed at 25%, probably could have gone down to 15%.

I printed My Skirt with 5% worked fine...

Superb, on non load bearing parts (like the skirt) the infill is purely to support the outer skin so 5% should work fine. I'm not convinced that once you get past 50% the extra strength you gain is worth the extra weight but haven't tested or proved this.

Hi.. I found an Issue with part "LeftShoulder1-1revised".. it was not slicing the correct way. MAbe some open triangles or something. I used the Netfab software to automatic repair, and now it's ok for printing. I'm not shure if the problem was in the file or in my slicer (Simplify3D).. but now it is fixed...

Hi. I am almost done printing frame/body parts; can I get some assistance in putting this puzzle together? I would like help on matching up the leg parts. Thanks.

Hi there, the best place to start is take a look at the 123d design files. The link for these are in the dome description on a one drive share. Save the files locally and download a copy of 123d design (free download). This is the design software. It shows the original design and the assembled plans. You can spin the design, hide parts etc to get a full picture of how it goes together. i've also added some additional pictures on thingiverse for a little more detail on some of the designs, but 123d files should give you what you need.

No problem, legs are probably the most confusing part check, check and check again before welding or gluing.

are there specific screws i should be getting to complete the whole build?

curious is LEG 6-1 supposed to be like that? a thin flat horizontal piece instead of an angle piece?

Hi, it's the way it's sliced, the thin piece doesn't print (well didn't on mine). The angle isn't there as it interferes with the panels / outside pieces (coin return etc. ). It'll make sense when you dry fit it. (And check out 123d design files, link on the dome description to see it built). For screws, I got a couple of lengths of 6mm studding, various bolts and nuts (variety box) from 3mm to 6mm. Small self tappers I used for the lazy Susans. I haven't got a full list of screws and bolts but you'll be fine with a mix.

will the pieces fit on a 8x8 print bed

Not all of them. Mine is 9” x 5.9” x 5.5” and there are a couple of pieces just slightly too long (by a couple of millimeters or so). I was able to sort of extend my bed and barely made it, but with 8x8 you'd probably have to split some of the models or something. Edit: To be clear, I'm talking about the models for R2 as a whole. As I recall, it was some of the flat pieces for the legs that didn't fit in my case. I'm not sure about the frame pieces specifically.

how do u open the 123d design file

where is the123d design file

Hiya. Link on the dome description.

how do u open the 123d design file
wot app do u use

123d design ? That's the app. Free.

123d design ? That's the app. Free.

i cannot open the folder DO U KNOW WHAT TO DO

Download and install 123d design, click on the onedrive link and browse / copy the 123d design files and open them. Loads of YouTube help on 123d design if you're not familiar with it.

THANK YOU GOT IT NOW

No worries, I've not done a full build log, so haven't got detailed instructions (I'm just building as I go and sharing the output), so it's a bit more work to understand the build (apologies) but everything I'm doing, I'm trying to share as much info as I have.

What do you mean?

123d design ? That's the app. Free.

wot app do u use

how do u open the 123d design file

Hiya. Link on the dome description.

on the r2d2 is seys topframe 2.1 topframe 2.2 does the frame 2-2 go on top of frame 2-1 or at the side

Without looking i can't remember but the 123d design file has all the parts and clearly shows the assembly. I suggest printing and dry fitting before assembly anyway to familiarise yourself with the build.

where is the123d design file

Waiting for my motor to arrive so I can figure out where it (and the idler) will mount, but everything else is ready for final assembly and paint.

Updated my make here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:253436

DRIOD BODY R2D2 Star Wars
by larryj

so I am printing these for the first time. Is everyone getting crazy long print times. The 2nd left shoulder is going to take 20 hours. That seems a little long to me for a flat plate? Suggestions?

What's your layer height and infill setting?

I printed the shoulders at .3 layer height and 80% fill - it took 14 hours for part 1 and another 13 for part 2.

All 100 parts took about 370 total hours to print.

Layer is .3, infill I used 15 - 20% on most (ABS) with 60% on a couple where I thought it would need strength. The frame will hold my weight so fairly happy with strength.

Hi, Max print time I had was around 7 hours. Printed at .3 layer height, any high details print (.1 for example) takes ages and with finishing the high details don't give much advantage. Guess other sertttings also slow or speed things up.

Starting my build today starting with bottomframe1-1, It is quite amazing at how well it is printing in ABS with the heated bed turned off.

Interesting, I must try that! What are you using for the ABS to adhere to the bed?

Blue painters tape roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper, still had some warping but not as much as I usually get.

Are some of the parts suppose to vary slightly in size, or are they all suppose to be the same?

Sorry, not clear what you are asking. Each part is different and therefore a different size, when assembled the rings are equal size and overall should resemble the photos of the assembled body (a few pics in the made section). In the Done description is a link to the 123d design files which are a good reference for assembly and to check the size of the parts.

hello , so I have the skirt parts which replace the 2 vertical supports ?

The six skirt pieces fit together to make a solid skirt. The skirt welds onto the base of the frame with a square insert which fits into the bottom circular plate. This leaves a square centre hole for the centre foot. It is a good fit and may need a little sanding.

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hello, missing two supports those in lower body, could possibly give me a link to be printed because I am blocking thank you

You are probably looking for the files named plate7-1, plate7-2, plate8-1 and plate8-2. They make vertical plates that go on the right and left between the bottom and lower frame rings.

Ah,these are from the original James Bruton design (frame) I've replaced these with a solid skirt.

ok , so it will lack nothing ca will not be easy to mount without notice .

the two small vertical plates that are below My Match

Hi, there shouldn't be any parts missing (a few people have already printed the frame). Have you tried downloading the whole set of parts as a zip rather than individual ones?

yes but I do not see the two vertical parts that I put photo.

They're not needed, nor the bottom plate. They are the support for an open framed skirt, I've replaced all of that with the solid 6 piece skirt.

Hi, your work is incredible! Is there a "map" or something to know where to put all the pieces? Are you posting your work on a Facebook page or something?

Thank you!

Hiya, I've posted the source designs in 123d design and named the parts, for more complex bits I've added instructions to the images. Once you start it's fairly obvious how it goes together (label / note the parts as you build). Don't glue or weld anything together until you're sure. The 123 D design files are the best reference (software is free to download). Any questions just post on here. I didn't put together a full set of instructions as I designed and built as I went along.

Thank for the reply! Just another question: I want to start building my droid from the body; I started studying all the parts but I can't figure out where the Head turn idler should go. Can you help me?

Im new here and started printing a week ago. I just have a couple questions.

1: Would I be able to use the Lazy Suzy that most use from the R2 Builders club?
https://www.graniteearth.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PAY-Lazy-Susan-R2-Builder

2: Im going after the aluminum dome and just wanted to know if there would be any issues using the laser cut Hydro Dome Set from the r2 builders club?

Your R2 unit looks amazing.

Are these prints compatible with http://astromech.net aluminum certified builds? Yes or NO?

I assume no, mine is completely 3D printed, never used or tested any of the certified parts. The dimensions externally are accurate to CSR but I expect no compatibility.

So a no reply means that the Prints are not compatible with my plan design?

The print is not compatible with any of the builds and I would imagine the printed frame would not support the additional weight (overall mines has used about 25kg of plastic for everything). I've adjusted the frame to support 6mm skins as these are stable print thickness. My aim was a completely 3D printed R2, not to digitize the existing plans.

Just out curiosity, could you tell me what build volume this will work on?
I know the files direct from James at Xrobots are to/too/tutu large for my printer.

Just a note I'm looking forward to printing your Rebels Chopper project ; )
I have a 200 x 200 plate and used Windows 10 3DBuilder to cut some of the files down further to fit ; ) if that helps

Nice easy process to use the split function and or weld for some of the smaller items! Good luck

Hi, Makerbot replicator so 254mm X 154mm build plate but I've shared the 123d design files so you can chop them up as you need.

GREAT. I have a Rostock Maxx which has 280mm diameter. So all your files "should" print with no problems.
I just can't seem to get the hang of 123d Design. And I can't import the files easily in Solidworks (which I prefer)

Fab! Any help drop me a line, always happy to help...

this is awesome, i really need to learn to split James's files to fit on my printer any tips for a ~145*145 plate

I have a 200 x 200 plate and used Windows 10 3DBuilder to cut some of the files down further to fit ; ) if that helps

Nice easy process to use the split function and or weld for some of the smaller items! Good luck

Hi, download 123d design, (free). I've included a link to all my original design files in the dome description. Takes an hour or so to get used to 123d design and you can join and split any items.

All coming together slowly. Nearly printed both leg frames. Fitted head, head clips and motorised using the printed lazy susan. A little noisy on first test but works lovely. Will be dampened once lubricated and panels fitted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNOmDbJ9CVc&feature=youtu.be

If i may ask, what type of motor are you using? Its very smooth. I am about at the same point as you in this build.

300RPM 12V High Torque Electric Speed Reduce DC Gear Box Motor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GN719FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cpSlxb9B7YPPC I'll post the mount and gear today in the body files. I use a 3mm bolt and nut for the captive nut screw to hold the drive gear on.

Hi, looks very similar to the one I use. I've tested the motor on 12v and 18v which adds a little more torque. Still working on the electronics as I'm leaning as I go. There's a number of driver boards which run dc motors via arduino on eBay, check them out along with YouTube to show how it all fits together. I'm revising the centre foot mechanics and lights, so whilst I've tested the dome motor, it's still needs finally fitting and wiring up with a controller. The mounts and gears are all posted though.

Thank you very very much.

Forgive me for asking because I'm new to 3-D printing, but this would print up a life-size astromech frame? That's really fantastic, great work.

Hi, yes it prints a full size astromech frame. I'm attempting to completely 3D print a R2D2 with mechanics. The Dome and Frame are posted, just printed the first Leg, again will post the STL files once I've double checked them. Will also be printing all the skins. Huge print job but everyone needs a hobby :-)

you are a genius!
masterwork.
i am still printing the first files from the dome, but can't wait to star the full body!
thank you !!

Is this CS:L Spec Accurate?

I don't believe so, the dimensions of the final build is taken from the R2 builders blueprints but I've modified the frame to include a printed lazy Susan, other than that the frame is as accurate as I can get based on the blueprints.

hi what setting did you use for this like shells and infill?

Hi, I used 4 shells with 25% infill on ABS, this has given me a fairly ridged frame but certainly would go for any less. Still work in progress, after watching James Bruton YouTube clips may redesign the shoulder brackets.

Also depends on whether you're using it for a static or full mobile.

Thanks for the support the pieces are actual size already assembled

The pieces are full (actual) size and obviously require assembling to create the whole frame / body.

James is awesome. Not sure he gets enough credit for what he makes. Have you scaled this down enough to fit a standard 3d printer. As I know his lulz bot is pretty big.

Hi,
Yes, all modified parts anyway but I've cut them to fit a standard Makerbot build plate (240 X 150)ish.

Thanks will have a go at printing this out later in the week.