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Robo 3D R1 Full Carriage / extruder assembly for E3D V6 and Hex(Screwless)

by AlteredDimensions Mar 13, 2016
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Quick question, is there no PTFE guide for the E3d? Attached examples:
I just dont see where there is room for the PTFE joiner or anything.

It is designed for a genuine E3d V6 . The knockoffs with big ptfe coupler wont work

I hated the original Robo3D carriage design and having to damage the extruder with screws to keep it in place. It was a horrible design. Thanks for redesigning it. This works really well. But the little belt clip (tnutbelt.stl) breaks SO easily. Worked for a couple days, then just breaks on its own. I'm on my 3rd one. That part definitely needs a redesign.

What material are you making it out of? Iv been using mine since i made it like a year ago , no issues . Made with PETG 100% infill

Initially I tried PLA, and all 3 broke, either during installation, or after a couple days of printing. I printed 2 more with PETG, 100% infill. Both broke during installation. The first one, as I'm tightening the screw, if you tighten ever so slightly past the limit, it will EASILY break because the nut is being pushed upwards and crushes the thin plastic between the nut and screw head. On the 2nd one, I tightened it only slightly, but since it's difficult to get the belt tight enough during installation, I have another mod attached to the belt that I use to tighten it, and as I was tightening the belt, the little clip couldn't handle the force and broke off. I did not even tighten the belt to its correct spec yet. It's great that the majority of people are using it with no problems... for "some" people it breaks, and that should warrant a redesign, because it really is quite thin. Perhaps I'll design something myself that integrates with the current carriage, because I don't feel like going back and printing the other carriage that doesn't use the clip.

Can you also add another fan mount on the other side for double fan mount? Thanks.

I was wondering if this would work on a robo 3d r1 plus. I just need the extruder housing and not the carriage. when I drilled my hole out for the Bowden tube it came out a little off center so I was looking to print one out that was ready for the e3dv6. Thanks for your help.

I am using it on an R1 Plus

Has anyone had any trouble with the extruder assembly warping or deforming due to the heat from the extruder stepper motor if printed in pla?

Iv never had a problem printing extruders with PLA . Iv had one on my printer for over a year and still like new. I use PETG now as i find its a better alternative to PLA .

This might be a dumb question, how do you remove the small gear on the stepper motor? I can't seem to get it off, and it doesn't have a screw on the side. I have a R1

Nvm, figured it out lol

Hey bud, I am a customer and fan over on RCG of your excellent PDB work. I was stunned when I came across this awesome solution for my Robo R1 With E3D V6, and then I saw your name and went "Go figure!"

About to print it now using S3D in PLA (PETG is on the way but I am impatient). Keep doing what you do, I SO appreciate your designs, man.

I am going with 85% infill, .1mm layer height, supports.. should be ok in PLA right?

[Edit] After reading comments below, I will go with a solid print instead.

Lol thanks, I know who you are on RCG too :)

PLA should do fine. Only the carriage really benefits with 100% infill . You can print the extruder and fan around 60% infill to save time. Of course the more infill the stronger the part. I printed them at .25 layer height . .1 may be a little overkill and take a long time. Up to you on that .

Well, I am in for the long haul I guess. 15 hours to go! I did end up doing the fan and extruder at 80% infill, but I figured the tolerances would benefit from a small layer height.

I'll post back when it's done and share the make.

Wow 15 hours. I think the longest part was about 3 hours for me at .25 . Well at least it will be a great looking part.

Getting ready to print these and am wondering if I should print the main x axis assembly solid or go with some infill? If I don't hear from anyone soon Im just going to print them solid. Hoping my last roll of ABS will hold out for the job :-/

It will come out best solid if you have the time. Making it solid will reduce any warping by the cutout . If it has too little infill you can bend it when pulling off the bed etc. If you do you do print with infill no less then 60% for sure. You can print it on the bed as it is or flip it upside down and you wont need support for the hotend cutout or have it start in islands.

Thanks for the reply. Yup, I printed them solid and will be done in less than an hour :) Im using no raft printing in ABS with 100% infill. This is a much needed needed upgrade as when I installed my E3D V6 is wouldn't fit right. Ended up having to remove some plastic from inside the where it butts up against the motor mount housing. Ended up putting printed washers inside of it to give it some rigidity (took too much plastic out) but after a few bad prints and the nozzle ripping through a few pieces it has a little wobble to it. Im just hoping its good enough to print these parts as usable ones... And thank you for another great Robo3DR1+ upgrade!

You can print ABS on your Robo? Iv never had any luck with ABS on the Robo .I only print with PLA ,PETG and on occasion nylon and ninjaflex. I had the same issues with installing the e3d in the stock extruder and carriage. This assembly has been working flawless for me for a while now. Best prints iv ever had with the Robo.

How can you print nylon and not abs? If its because it wont stick or warps look into a sheet of PEI and maybe enclose your printer. Before adding the heated enclosure mod I just put a big trash bag over the whole machine. This works but also isn't so good for your electronics.

I have modded my Robo3D R1 +(+++++) quite alot. The best upgrade was the E3D-V6 hotend (NOT A KNOCKOFF!) I bought a knockoff first thinking they are the same.. They are NOT.
Ok besides the hotend I've extended the Y axis to 330MM Using Pergo's 330mm extension mod. Replaced the heated bed element with a 12" x 12" one. Upgraded the power supply to a 500 watt 48 amp. I've used several of Novice Experts mods like the RGB lighting mod, quick filament change and many firmware changes he suggests. Herring bone gears, cable chain, Raspberry Pi w/camera, Heated enclosure also by Pergo. And since that enclosure (with controlled external heater) works so well I had to reprint everything inside in ABS... Also, since the chamber can get very hot I now have to replace the little fan cooling the hotend heatsink with a water cooling system. Both the heated chamber and the watercooling system will be connected to temperature controllers which will be mounted on either side of the ROBO. OH! One of the best additions I've done lately is my new PEI build platform sheet! Things stick SO much better than the standard robo glass.

Even though I still get pretty impressive prints I know by adding this mod I will get even better results. To make the E3D V6 fit my robo I had to drill out the inside of the extruder mount. Not being accurate the hotend was wobbly so I printed some spacers as a temporary fix. Your mod will resolve this issue and I again thank you for making it :)
I've done other mods as well but I think you probably get the idea lol

Hey Claytonc, I know this is an older comment thread but I was checking into the bigger heater bed. Did you have to upgrade the power supply first, or do you have some background on what all was entailed? the tiny heater on the robo's glass drives me nuts when I am printing ABS though I can get pretty solid prints about 60% of the time with liberal use of hairspray and a heated chamber. In fact I had some issues with too MUCH heat in my chamber (causing the print to degrade as I got higher in the build chamber since I wasn't circulating air, and coehesion fell off rapidly above about 20mm).

Basically I can do pretty well with ABS so long as the print area doesn't get much bigger than about 50mm in either direction, though I have managed to print vertically really well (100mm+ prints haven't been much of an issue so long as they have a small footprint)

I ran with the old power supply for a while and it was fine. I just figured with all the stuff I've added to it I needed to upgrade it anyway.

Well Nylon i only print small parts with when needed so warping is not a issue, I wouldnt print big parts wtth it. I do have a PEI plate but dont use it. Too much hassle when i can just use hairspray and never have a issue. I have no want to print with ABS anymore. PETG is perfect for me and im not into doing vapor treatment so no point using ABS for me. With a enclosure and PEI im sure you can just not worth doing all that. ABS without that stuff is not usable on a Robo. PETG for me prints like a dream.PETG sticks to the bed almost too good, doesnt warp . Prints so good i cant visibly see any layers at .25 .Aquanet hairspray has worked great since day one.

My Robo is originally a R1 which is now more of a R1Plus . Iv done some mods but not nearly as much as you. I am also using a genuine E3D V6 .Wouldnt touch the knockoff personally. Iv had the same issues as you modifying the stock extruder. Wobbly hotend ,crooked, all chewed up heatsink from the 2 mounting screws etc . This mod locks down the hotend flat and straight .No wobble or anything, quick to remove if needed. I even think it prints better . Iv done the Plus leadscrew mod , Raspberry Pi (octoprint,cam), Neopixel leds, XXl lcd,more quiet fans, My carriage extruder assembly ,top mount spool holder etc .I dont think my Robo can print any better with the filament i use.

Never needed to make the build size bigger as i have two other printers . One is a makerfarm 12x12x12 .Other is a custom printer i made which is similar in design to the Robo but better. It has a build size of 200x300x500 .Best part is i used Sanyo denki steppers with astrosyn dampers (so smooth and silent),Sintered bronze bushings,leadscrews and super quiet fans. Its prints almost silently. A major difference in noise compared to the Robo. I have been thinking of putting the Sanyo Denki with dampers on my Robo as well to reduce the noise. Instead of the Robo body my custom frame is all aluminum extrusion 20x60. I use this same carriage extruder assembly on it.

Sounds like this is the last mod you need . Let us know how it goes :)

Wadz, did you use support with this?

Of course. I use Simplify3d as my slicer so i guess im a bit spoiled as supports are so simple and never a issue. All the Stls are in the correct orientation on the bed except for the fan stl which should be rotated to the flat side .Placing face on bed also being 1 click in S3D so i dont think of it much. The carriage should only really need vertical support on the hotend cutout. I print the extruder with support for the countersunk steppermotor holes, bearing recess,filament hole,hotend recess,mounting holes and guide mount/hole. Fan needs internal support throughout of course.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to look into S3D too. Easy supports sound really good

So easy they are automatic. S3D was honestly one of the best purchases iv ever made. I can now go from STL to print in under a minute . Have manually placed or automatic supports that come off the part so easywithout even a mark left on the part. So many other great options like duplicate ,place any surface on bed with 1 click. Easy to adjust slicing options. Add different options individually to multiple parts being printed at the same time .You can print up to layers which comes in handy with big parts when you want to get fitment right you can print just part of a part to test. Overall it is so simple to use ,unlimited options and optmizes the Gcode to print better overall. It also has preset machine config for the Robo so you dont even have to set it up. I never have failed prints anymore

After looking into it further and hearing your testament, I'm sold. Thanks for the advice!

Wadz, do you need to use the gear files you supplied in this? I am using a set of herringbone gears and really like the reduced backlash. What about the hobbed bolt door...same as stock or specific to the new extruder frame?

Did you reuse the old bearings or purchase new ones?

Thanks in advance and nice work.

You can use your own gears. I personally use herringbone gears myself with it. It is made for stock hobb bolt. Im using a better hobb bolt then stock on mine but fits the same as the stock one. All bearings are the same as stock. I purchased new LM8UU bearings for the carriage as they are dirt cheap and not worth the hassle of trying to remove them from the stock carriage and then you could also go back to the stock carriage if you were to ever want. I use a ratchet bar clamp like the one below to press the bearings in


Iv been using this extruder/carriage assembly on both my printers for a while now and has been working great. I got one printer with the e3d one and the other printer with the hex version.

All my parts are printed with Esun PETG

Edit: I added the files for the Herringbone gears i use. These have pretty much no backlash.

Great feedback and thanks for the response. I will have an "I made one" up sometime soon.

Made this yesterday!
1 thing i found was the nozzle was bit loose in the fact it could spin 360. Fixed by crazy gluing small rectangles 4 in all from a pop can to the U area where the head sits, After that it was snug and not spinning.


Did you make the extruder also? The hot end is supposed to be a little loose in the carriage but the modified extruder is what locks it down from spinning and keeps it in place.

Did not make the extruder, figured the robo one was good! As mentioned my Macguyver fix is doing quite well!

imo you may want to eventually print the extruder as its a pair really . Im not sure what could happen from the big space of air you would have inside the extruder area. Im sure its a huge deal if you were using the hexagon but with the e3d and ptfe tube it may not be as big a deal . The hole the hot end sits in on the extruder on the robo one is around 10mm depth as the hotend used to sit deeper into the extruder.The new extruder hole depth is only 3.7mm .Same size as the top ring of the e3d. This locks it down on the carriage from spinnning and also leaves no space in the cavity. Like i said though it may not be a big deal with the ptfe .There are other benefits to the new extruder as well as the filament hole is opened up to accept the PTFE tube. I optimized the diameter to make the PTFE slightly loose so when the PTFE tube swells like they do it doesnt constrict the filament.

Ever since I put an E3D v6 on my Robo, I've had trouble with the hotend being loose. It has some wiggle to it. I have been searching for something like this for a while. I found the other one you designed, the modified extruder for the E3D v6, and thought that that should be good enough. Then I see this. I'll sacrifice a few millimeters of z travel to have a rock solid mounting option for the hotend. Hopefully this works as well as I expect.

You should also mention that you will need the Wades hinge from the other extruder as it's not included in the parts here.

Yes , my e3d was always loose ,crooked,wobbled when hot. If you put the screws in just slightly off theres no way to fix as it deforms the metal . Since i installed this on mine those problems are gone and i am really happy i made this. My prints have been better then ever. I did do the R1+ leadscrew upgrade at the same time though. The amount off mm you lose is so small its not really noticeable so its not even a sacrifice really . I just wanted to mention it

I also never liked that it was so hard to make the belt tighter on the original R1 carriage. Now its very easy

You can reuse the original robo wades hinge or use either one from my other wades stl . I will add the original stl for it to the files here.

Fan is fixed.Tslot size was adjusted and slide in fan channel adj so the fan clips in easy. Just finished installing all parts on my Robo 3d R1 as well as leadscrew upgrade. Everything fits nice .My printer is printing better then ever now.

Alls good until I tried "carving" the slot out. I had it all apart anyways because I upgrade to the 8mm rods.

Which slot are you refering to .The fan slot or hotend slot ? I designed this because i too am in the process of upgrading to leadscrews so i figured why not do a full overhaul . I will mod the files if something doesnt fit right . So far the only issue iv come across is the fan tslot was too tight and needed some sanding . I will mod the file for it later today. I come from a cnc background with nice tight tolerences but the 3d printer undersizes things by a small margin so i need to adjust the tolerences accordingly. That comes into play expecially on stuff like holes and tslots. Other then that everything is fitting good on mine but i have not finished installing it yet. Will update when i do. Feedback is appreciated .