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Fully assembled 3D printable wrench

by barspin Aug 24, 2013
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Came out perfectly on the Tevo Michelangelo at 30mm/s and 0.3 layer height with no fusing and the screw was very easy to turn.

This is an amazing design, but the screw was tight and didn't move. So, I had to use a push pin to poke a hole in the screw and force it loose. I used some lubricant, and it works really well.

I printed both the regular version and the one with more gap tolerance on an Ultimaker S5 with Ultimaker Tough PLA and PVA supports at 0.05mm layers. Neither of them will budge. :(

100% infill, .2, PLA, 190. Took a bit of work to get it loosened up, but it works!

Bonjour, faut il l'imprimer en plusieurs morceaux ?

Did anyone print with polycarbonate, e.g. PC MAX?

Well, I did and it not works.
Take off supports was really difficult (it takes about 1,5 hour with scalpel) and at the end, moving part is stucked.

the one you uploaded with the greater tolerances is functionally useless. the screw drive has so much play the thumb adjustment knob has nothing to bite into, and the item does not adjust. See how the screw adjust and thumb drive barely touch. that is as good as it gets. I am printing your original file now to compare.

Awesome file, printed great at 0.2 just need to use it a bit to smooth the parts.

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i removed the supports, and i oiled it, but i cannot get it to adjust

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It worked perfect first time on my new CR-10S using Cura. I printed using PLA at normal 100% size with no issues at all. Very impressed, thank you. I now plan on making it again in PETG and then ABS in many different sizes.

My CR-10S settings:
Nozzle 203
66 glass bed using glue stick
40% for first 2 base layers
100% for for the rest.
Removed supports using pliers
Olive oil on screw

worked for me on ender 3 sliced with cura white esun pla 205deg 0.2 50% infill, going to try a big one next

I printed this in PLA and PETG and both times I couldn't get the supports out. I'm using a MK3 printer

My first attemp was in PLA but I printed at 75% and 220. It got almost a single piece. Later I print this on 100% size and slow down speed also I used 205° and I could get the supports off, the movin parts separated but the screw is not as perfect as I expected.

Try in low temperature, ans obviously lower speed to avoid parts melt together.

Anyone else having problems getting the parts off the wrench? I printed mine in PETG

Built this wrench today on my Creality CR 10s. No support. Looks beautiful, worked right off the table. Great cad work /file!
Thanks barspin! Just amazing stuff!
I used Cura, PLA @ 210c /50 c

Does this actually work, or will it break on you while using

I printed 5-6 times, never worked... Dunno whats my fault.

Any one can done it ?

Try lower temperature, maybe 195-200° C, and a lower printing speed will help, and the size must be 100% or bigger, I printed on a Zonestar, not to good printer as a Prusa MK2, but I could release the parts including screw, but this last wasn´t so perfect

Print speed 25mm/s
Infill 20% (but if you want harder part use 80%)
Layer 0.3 (I will try 0.2 to see if screw gets better)
No supports needed
Blue painters tape on the bed
Bed at 75° first layer, the res 60°
PLA Black

Mine too. I printed with PLA at 0.1 layer height. I could never turn the screw, as it was stuck.

Hello Team!

Any way to remove this "3d Printed" inscription. I really would like to do a present for my friend with his name on it.

Load it into Tinkercad. Remove and replace the text

I printed the big one where the jaw/screw is separate from the handle. How do I insert the screw?

Had a hard time printing this in the beginning. Then switched from cura to simplify3d.

Printed perfectly at original size from a stock anet A8 (stock autobed level probe). Just removed the included supports, used a drop of vaseline oil and it was ready to go.

Great job!

190°C - 60°C
20% infill

Post the gcode from simplify3d

Always wanted to try the wrench.

Today I printed it using my MonoPrice mini at 80% scale size (finished print is 128mm or 5" LONG) used 0.13125 mm layer height, used PLA. Sliced with Cura. It took about 2 hours to print.

It worked, not very smooth at this size, but it did work!

Thanks to the author for this file ! This is a nice piece of engineering !
Those who did not succeed, do not blame the file or the author, it actually worked at my second attempt on a brand new CR10 (was my 3rd print).
PLA, noze=200°C, bed=60°C, 50% infilll
Removing the two first support pieces was quite easy. Unblocking the screw was a little tougher. I succeeded using the small support piece on the flat part of the screw, and a wrench.

CR10 PLA 60˚ Bed 200˚ Nozzle 50% Infill
Cura: adhesion and support on.
I printed the extended with normal tolerances. It was tough to get the support parts out, flexing the print helped to free it. It works great. I would have liked to not have support material around the thumbscrew as it was the most difficult to remove cleanly.
This works, though and it's an excellent example of what's possible to 3D print! I was amazed.

I printed in PLA, the version with the extra tolerances, full size, and the supports popped-out perfectly. The jaw is loose, but the screw didn't stick to the table properly, and I had to dig it out entirely. Hoping I can still save it by printing the extra pieces and pressing the screw into place. Fingers crossed...

Not sure why this thing is so popular. I printed one and it was waste of material.

yep... definitely a waste.. tried printing about 6 times and all of them failed.

Anyone else having problems with the screw not adhering to the bed? The print starts fine and on the 3rd or 4th layer one of the points from the screw comes loose and screws up the rest of the print. I have tried to print this 4 times now without sucess...

Try to lower the print a bit, or print on a raft. Lowering it would increase the amount of contact with the bed for the screq

If you can dodge a 3D printed wrench, you can dodge a ball.

Hahahaha! Patches!

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Is this metric or in inch?

Left or right handed?


The outer walls on mine seems to be having a hard time sticking to the inner walls. Any ideas?

I am having a major issue printing this in ABS at 0.2 mm with Simplify3D as my slicer. I cannot seem to get the middle floating portion (the moving jaw part in the slot) to stay in place. I am trying to print this with the regular gap, and even then it seems that the gap is too large (2-3 layers in size at 0.2 mm). I have tried varying bed temp from 105 C to 80 C, and extrusion temp from 235 C to 212C. Also changed extrusion multiplier from 1.00 to 1.10. Nothing seems to do the trick to get that middle printed portion to stay in place. I have failed 7 times now... Not sure what else to do.

Using a well tuned Qidi Tech replicator clone.



Mine stuck ,so I heated up a small rod and melted a hole in the thread. Then I used the rod to twist the thread loose. It left a tiny mak , but it saved the print!

I printed with PLA on my Anet A8 with these settings:

10% infill
0.1mm layer height
No support structure
100% size

Worked out awesome!

use support structure?

Use support structure?

Is the file with the longer screw the design with more clearance added of the one with less? I want to try with ABS now. The one I printed with PLA with extra clearance worked ok but it seemed to be too much clearance and it tends to be sloppy and jams up. I would like less clearance with a longer screw.

Solved! Easy fix for stuck screw! After hours and trying thing on this thread like freezing etc, I finally found a 30 sec trick that worked like a charm. I used my dremel tool tiniest drill and put a hole through it straight down. then I used that same bit to twist it free and heard it break free. now it turns easily. I actually used another bit same size diameter just so as not to break the drill bit one. This is way better solution than mangling the screw with pliers and screwdriver which I also tried. I hope this idea helps someone else having troubles! Thanks for the great design, it's very cool!

I wish I had seen your note sooner. I didnt spend hours but long enough, until i read your solution.
Thanks much.

It was a good print.

It was a good print.

Great design, but I have printed this thing in PLA at least 2 dozen times on 2 different printers with many different settings and in every size up to 160%. I have never been able to get the supports out without breaking or splitting the wrench. I only use PLA. Does anyone have a PLA version that is easier to work with?

I have just managed to get this to print in PLA I was having problems with the screw not adhering to the bed so had to attach the screw to the body with temporary supports. I found braking the original supports was ok the top one was a but difficult but the body of the wrench was solid, are you using a fan on the print? you definitely need to, it sounds like your bridges are sticking. I'd suggest fan and check your filament diamitor to ensure your layers are bonding properly i did my at 190 C 100% scale my infill was at 80% 0.2 layer height. good luck!

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

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So...Just so people know. All these comment deleted messages are probably because this system is very slow to respond sometimes. Press "save comment" nothing happens for 15-30 seconds. Press it again. Nothing. Press it a third time. Poof! The comment replicates itself once for each click. Odd issue but that's why there are "comments deleted" below this one.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

Yes, I have a fan. Using good filament, too. PLA doesn't shrink as much as ABS so I think the tolerances are probably too close. I am usually able to get the screw to turn but the top support won't come loose. What I'd really like is a version that does not have all of the supports so I can use the printer's support options.

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I'll answer the question first ... no.
I haven't printed so many versions as you but have had similar problems with the three prints I HAVE made in that although I can release the big support structures, I can never get the gear to move at all. Two PLA prints and one ABS and of course I end up throwing them away - big waste of plastic and at the end of the day, money.
I would love this to work ... but I'm afraid that it doesn't on my RepRap machine and it is a machine which only fails with this design. Ho humm!

Great design, but I have printed this thing in PLA at least 2 dozen times on 2 different printers with many different settings and in every size up to 160%. I have never been able to get the supports out without breaking or splitting the wrench. I only use PLA. Does anyone have a PLA version that is easier to work with?

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I downloaded "Printable_Wrench.A.15" and imported it to AutoCAD, are the basic dimensions in inches ??
I scaled it up 25.4 to be in millimeter and found the handle hole dia. 8mm, is that right ? is this the black one in the photo ?

printed it out, looks cool, but don't know how to make it work. so afraid I will break it

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Hi Printed the wrench in ABS and it came out perfect and all working. I am quite new to 3D printing so I am quite pleased with myself. My printer Da Vinci XYZ pro 1,so qwell done to the designer. Will post pictures when I sort out my camera.

This thing is a pain to keep the screw stuck to the surface. Normally I don't have a problem with small parts but I tried about 5 times before I got it to stick. Both with PLA and ABS on a new Prusa i3 Mk2. Was afraid to get the first layer any closer, may try it once more with the 1st layer squished a little more.

But it's super cool, supports came off just fine and even though the screw wasn't perfect (because the first layer came off after 2 layers) it still worked pretty well. I did scale it up to 105%.

You should have called this "3D Wrenchy" :D

I'm printing this right now to show off at OMSI Maker Faire in Portland Oregon tomorrow. Hope to see some of you guys there!

That´s awesome! I hope everyone had a blast and the Wrench made it thru the entire weekend! =)

Looking to make one of these with 'Makerbot' software using the Replicator (Dual) with PLA...Anyone have some reccomended settings for first build?

Dear Mr. Barspin

This is Yoshimi for DeAgostini Japan (publisher). We are publishing weekly magazine called My 3D printer. And we would like to use your image http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:139268 for our magazine. Would you please let us have your permission for this? We await your soonest reply (terribly sorry that our deadline is next week...).

*For credit, barspin is OK?

Thank you very much indeed for your cooperation.

Best regards
Yoshimi Ichikawa
K.K. DeAgostini Japan

Fully assembled 3D printable wrench
by barspin


thanks for the comment and sure, you can use the picture if you like. But if you do please credit: "Daniel Norée" instead of Barspin. Thanks!


Dear Daniel

Thank you for your positive reply.
And thank you for the permission.
Also can we have permission for Taiwan use as well?
as we are going to publish this in Taiwan soon.

*Regarding the credit "Daniel Norée", we will certainly put.

Thank you again!

Best regards

Taiwan is ok, thank you for asking!
Good luck, i hope you have great success with your magazine!

Thank you very much indeed for the permission again!
You too! I hope you have a great success with your 3D art!


I have the best luck freeing the joint by tossing them in the freezer for 30 min. Use a small screw driver to pry on each end of the worm gear and you can here it pop loose.

Scaled up a little bit in PLA and the screw stuck.

Would this be safe to scale up? I was thinking about 150%?if so would anyone have a reccomendation as to which file to scale up?


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Has anyone printed in multiple colors or printed pieces separately and put together?

Really great design, it worked first try, but the supports stuck strong so I cracked it in half... printed a 2nd time, supports still held firm but it worked and turned out great!

Thanks for the model! Printed on PLA and got going the first time (after an hour of prying).

Printrbot simple metal settings:

layer height= .1984
shell thickness = .8
bottom / top thickness = .4
fill density = 15%
speed = 45
temp = 210
platform adhesion = raft

The tabs came out quite easily. Screw took forever. Used combination of flat heads and pliers (i think pliers did the trick) and added Vaseline after it got spinning.

I was able to print this with cheap printer and PLA. Few tips:

  1. There are 3 actually designed parts to remove and you can use force to remove then.
  2. Print as perfect as possible 3DBenchy first, this thing needs good calibration to work.
  3. Once moving, add oil. Even real spanner needs oil and this is much coarser thing if not
  4. Very quick flame treatment with lighter also helps smooth things out.
  5. This desing isn't perfect, so it is hard to make your print perfect either.

if you scale it down to half size it wont separate and you will have i piece of plastic.

Attempted via a Rep5 at .1mm in PLA. Cracked body. Will try again at lower res.

I am new to 3d printing. I have a Dremel. I made and removed the plugs on three wrenches, (gave them to my grand children). Then I made & ruined 3 others. I can no longer get the top plug out, (which means I can't get the last plug out. Any suggestions.


which file is the one for the white spanner shown at the end of the images? as i can't remove the blocks from the other versions.

it's hard to turn the thumb screw the first time. But nice work!

Just made the version with the longer screw. Bit tricky to get some of the supports out and the movable jaw free but once done it works a treat. Some vaseline is useful as a lubricant.
Nice bit of work.

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What CAD software did you use? And could you post the file so I could possibly make some changes?

Do you have an Editable Inventor file (.ipt file)that you could post? I have an idea but I need the wrench file to do so and it would save me a lot of time.

I don´t use Inventor so there´s no such file. Sorry.

That's all right, I figured I'd just ask.

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Printed this a couple of times now. The worm gear seems to be far too loose each time and as such the gear slips. I'd be nice if the shaft for the worm gear was longer and maybe even went through to the outside

Made one with PLA on Printrbot Simple Metal, 200 micron. Printed fine - 2 of the 3 supports removed easily. I'm assuming the last support would be easier to remove if the worm gear moved? I still can't get mine to move, so I just pried it out. It looks like the gear is fused to the wrench on the axis. I'll keep messing with it but it looks really nice other than that. Edit: I used the gap version

I printed it in PLA too and my worm gear is stuck and flat sided on the bottom.

As larger print easiest is to unlock the screw. With a scale of 40% larger than the original is perfect!!

Printed it as is @ 0.20 micron on Hanwai Duplicator 5S.
I had to pry loose the nut to make it work.

A pretty impressive working proof of concept!
Photo upload doesnt seem to work, making the I made one feature useless.

No luck with the "Printable_Wrench.A.15.stl" file on my Printrbot Metal Simple at 0.2mm resolution with brim. Some of the parts fused together and I couldn't separate them no matter how hard I tried. Cool design though. I'm trying again with the "Printable_Wrench_w_more_gap.A.0.stl" file.

can someone make a video on correctly removing the supports, each time i do it, it ruins the print and i am tired of printing this out.

Printed the "more gap" version using Craftbot, vector slicer, 0.2mm layer height, 25% infill, 90% extruder speed ratio, 50% first layer extruder ratio. With Craftware's auto supports at 1.5mm @ 65 deg. Print orientation was flag, as the wrench sits in the photos.

The Craftware added supports broke off easy. The in-model top and bottom supports took considerably more effort to remove. This required a lot of tapping with a small flat head screwdriver and hammer. Actually broke the bottom retainer in trying to free the bottom support.

After the worm gear is still very stuck. After many hours of tapping with a tiny flat heat screw driver into areas, using an exacto knife, even pouring some acetone onto the gears, I was actually able to turn the worm gear by using a larger flat head screw driver to torque it. From then on, it was just a lot patience, more cutting around the worm gear, and torqing with various screwdrivers, and finally I am able to turn the worm gear, with EXTREME difficulty.

Sooooo, the moral of the story is, it is not impossible. But it damn hell is difficult.

And I basically destroyed my thumbs on this.

Oh, ps, the reason the "3D Printed" wording looks like crap is because of a Craftware slicing error, it printed a top cover for those words, so I had to clean that out with the exacto.

Its unfortunate this flawed stl is posted and copied so many times. A close look at the worm gear from the bottom will show the flat sides that really need to be fixed. As far as printing goes, I really had no problems (...I cranked my rigidbot temperature up to 205 and slowed to 80% speed... parts separated with a slight twist and pull with pliers). Again, too bad the source has errors.

Didn't work. I am not using a makerbot though. The spin wheel doesn't spin and I used a very fine setting. Layer height was 0.2

Just printed the wrench using my replicator 2. Settings as follows

0.3mm layer

I used the model with larger gap and printed it using PLA. Supports I could remove pretty easy and its working :)

How difficult is it to get all the parts moving? Seems to cause many issues.

Heya you asked for PLA feedback.

Well.. Even Cracking the thing in half I literally cannot take out this "support material" it's solid blocks, and would be easier to Drill out. I'm using PLA and I have printed assembled gears before. I did your one with the larger space. The space at the gear is the least of your concerns as it's the most accessible part.

This needs MINOR thin walls, not Blocks for support material. Especially an the bottom. There is no way that would ever come out. PLA is Gooey, you print a solid Block on top, it becomes not 2 parts, but 1. Maybe if I had my fan working, but, with thin walls this would be a no prob print. ABS is better about over the air, shape forming, bridges, than PLA. Honestly with 0 support I probably could have cleaned the few rogue lines up with pliers. Then again, the small part of the wrench is technically fused too. If it was made in a way I could Shim it free (maybe add micro 1 layer tall widely spread out thin walls there too?, but there is a bend in the design, making that strategy impossible.

That's not the biggest thing either. I know it's nice to have it flat, but that's more gravity contact points. Put it on its thin side and only a 2 mm squared section will get fused and need to be shimmed.. Instead of bottom, and top of the larges areas..

I will note my printer is a high speed mendel max. This was a 30 minute print at about 120 mms. Physical limitations is 150 on this machine, all about calibration to get it to 150. 0.5 mm nozzle, same lh... Meaning I'm running PLA HOT. 200 cel to be exact.

Has anyone succeeded in being able to move all the parts? I can't get the screw to turn... What should I do? Your help would be very appreciated.

It's very very NICE design, I LOVE IT !
But It's so hard for me to remove the support part even if I print the more gap version.
I don't know how to improve it and I printed with PLA.
All seems GOOD for me but the support parts.
Still so many thanks to share this EXCELLENT design, Thank you so much. :)

The large gap version printed just fine with red PLA on a Rep 2 (4 shells, 30% infill, raft) Top support was difficult to remove, so I drilled it out with progressively larger bits until I could pry it out. The moving side of the wrench end is free but I'm having some issues getting the screw unstuck from the wrench body. Even with that, its a really well designed and impressive model. Thanks!

Printed version with longer screw on Ultimaker2 at .2mm res and 24% fill. Estimated time said it would take 2:17 but I manually slowed it down to 50% to get better results on the detailed areas. It took considerable effort to free the parts using an exacto knife. Great design! Thanks.

Soon to be leaving thingiverse because of Makerbot's behavior towards open source.
Details: http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/5/25/has-makerbot-crossed-the-line-for-some-yeshttp://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2...

so you move all your stuff to ShapeDo? yes because they seem so trustworthy...... cough

The supporter comes out by the sides pull on those it will help

I tried printing the a.15 model and I can't get the supports out of the wrench. I need some help.

That looks great! I can't wait to try it out

I printed the larger gap model and came out great. It started out like a rusty wrench but after a few minutes of attention it started to glide nice. Very cool design of custom supports. Thanks.
Printed on replicator2 with PLA
-Supports off in software

  • 200 micron

I've tried printing this several times...and the ends keep warping/lifting, which eventually gets hit by the extruders and pops off the build plate...I raised the build plate temp to 114 C, even scaled the object down. I'm using the MakerBot Replicator 2X with Black ABS filament, raft, and different colored supports.

If you have trouble with warping ABS, I have have the perfect solution. Grab some acetone and ABS. Put the ABS in little pieces in an eggcup and fill it with acetone. After 10-20 Minutes the acetone has the same color as the ABS. Grab a Paintbrush and make a thin layer on your !HEATED! build plate. It will smell a bit but it is ok. Then you are Ready for printing.

I've just tried to print this on my Prusa i3 and noticed that unfortunately the threads on the worm gear aren't sticking to the heated bed very well during print (this is at the beginning of the print before they are joined together into the single worm). Enabling brim in slic3r won't work since it only applies it to the outer perimeters. Any advice?

Well, I ended up printing it in Cura and it seems to have worked OK! just trying to release the worm from the rest of the model now, the other parts have freed up OK...

Will it be alright if I put up an scad that allows customization of the text inside the wrench ?

Printed this on our Replicator 2 and it looks great. Had trouble getting supports off; one wouldn't come off at all. We downloaded the one with the bigger gap.

Printed this in PLA using the wider gap version, sliced with Cura and printed on a MendelMax 1.5+. Main supports came out relatively easily, but I really can't get the worm gear out. I think it's fused to the body at the sides and I'm not sure there's much I can do about it now.

Update: I used a small screwdriver to pry at the sides of the gear, and was able to move it. Still, this kinda dinged up the gear and while it moves a bit not it's still not moveable by hand very much.

very nice, printed it with the following slicer settings:

60mm/s perimeter
100mm/s infill
25% infill
200micron per layer

bit tricky with the supports but very minimal support used and after bit twitching it works good :). one of my favorite designs

Hi, I'm using rhino and can't cut any material out from this! I can cut material away from objects I make but it won't work with any I download and then open! Can anyone help?

Got mine to work second time round, and is pretty cool! Used the following settings -

Makerbot Replicator 2
Used the version with the bigger gaps
Standard Print Settings ( 10& infill, 2 shells, 0.20mm layer height)
No rafts or supports

Took a bit of rocking to get the supports out, then kept using the screw to wiggle it loose enough to use.

I've printed this all out and it looks great, only problem is I can't remove the supports for the life of me. Is there anything that works well to get them out besides a big knife? I'm currently living in college dorm housing so I don't really have anything like that.

I just printed this on my Up! plus, just had to scale it down using the print software by .80 and it works fine.

I think I know why the author can print one with his Makerbot while Repraps cannot. Correct me if I'm wrong (because I don't have a Reprap), the Makerbot's ReplicatorG software can allow you to do "partial support" while the Reprap's breakaway support material is all or nothing. With "partial support", the Makerbot will make a minimum of supports so that you won't be printing a lot of supports in between the gears. Therefore, you can break free and spin the gears after printing. However, Reprap operators with all or nothing supports will print too much support material so that the gears can't break free. Is this a correct assessment / guess?

This thing does not utilise software support. Everything including support structures is done in CAD and is included in the STL file. But there are so many variables that come into play here, type of filament, diameter of filemant, printer/slicer settings, printer, surroundings and so on. As the tolerances might be "on the edge" for some there is not much needed for it to fail.

Thank you barspin for liking my slic3r and printrbot jr friendly remake of your excellent wrench.

Once I actually printed it out and popped out your supports, I realized the genius of your design. Well done!

Wrench, Adjustable, Stubby.
by ramai

I finally got this printing well in ABS after dealing with a lot of feed problems with the stock mechanism on a Replicator 2X. I printed the version with the large gaps at the default size and things snapped apart and started working very easily. Very impressive! I am printing with 25% fill and 0.2 mm thickness. I also added some Makerware helper disks under the little pylons that support the break away bits. Before I did that, they peeled up and broke loose before the fourth layer was complete. I switched to a different filament (that claimed to be metallic silver but, of course, it's just grey) and noticed that it was significantly harder to remove the plugs and get the screw working. I finally figured out why. They awesome-wrench-filament was 1.7 mm in diameter and the it's-really-stuck-together wrench was printed with 1.8 mm filament. It turns out I was supposed to measure the filament thickness and change the filament diameter parameter in the profile! Who knew? The feed mechanism/software pushed the same number of centimeters of filament through the nozzle for each print, but the difficult wrench had almost 6% more filament squirted into it - hence the fused gaps. Thanks for the cool part! It's trying to get these cool ones to work that drags everyone through the pain of actually learning how to control these machines properly.

Hi. I am a complete green rookie and got my first 3D printer 2 days ago, I am attempting this print as a form of training myself and learning the limitations of my printer. But after several attempts I am still unsuccessful at getting gear teeth that are not completely fused in both ABS and PLA (PLA came closer to success). If anyone can please share all the slicing parameters they used to get a workable print it will help me tons to understanding 3D printing quicker!

Object infill?
Layer height?
Number of shells?
Feedrate (mm/s)?
Travel feedrate?
Print temperature?
Support materials (none, exterior or full)?

I have a Mbot Cube Dual Extruder printer, and use ReplicatorG and Skeinforge 50 for generating .s3g files and slicing. I have 1.82mm filament (both ABS and PLA) and 0.4mm nozzle extruders.

Thank you very much :-)

I attempted to print this on my Rostock Orion using Repetier, however it didn't print the worm gear or lower grip arm... D: what did i do wrong?

Strange. I just printed 3 of them on my Rostock Max. Slic3r sliced them up and printed them just fine.

I made one of these. Just want to make sure that barspin sees the description I wrote over there: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:49155http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...

After using Netfabb to fix the uploaded STL (for the version with more gap), the file slices without problem but when printed, I have been unable to free the worm gear. This applies to both of the prints which I have produced - one in PLA and a second in ABS. Both printed with 20% infill and 0.2mm layer height. This is so frustrating as the whole concept of this thing is brilliant and as a demo of the capabilities of a home 3D printer would be very impressive.

As soon as I print one of these, I have a buddy that asks, "Can I have it?". I've printed five so far. Although my first one came out perfectly, it may have been beginner's luck. I've cracked a couple of them while removing the bottom support (the smaller of the two). And I've noticed in the three that I haven't broken, that the adjustable part of the wrench usually needs a bit of light finger pressure for guidance to keep it from binding up. There seems to be a bit of slop in it. Perhaps it's the gaps, but could it also be possible that, if the threaded cylinder that moves up and down within the wrench, were made a little longer, that it would help to keep the adjustable piece better aligned? There seems to be a 1/4" of room at the top where it could be lengthened. This is an awesome design, and if it could be perfected it would be truly amazing. It is so close now! I wish that I had the skills to do more than offer suggestions. Perhaps I will get there someday.

I have extended the "threaded cylinder" 3mm, would you be willing to test it?

I scaled it up as large as it could get on a makerbot rep 2 and it was nearly too loose. I hate to be a burden, but could you upload one with an even smaller gap? Also, the worm gear was very very difficult to break off of the other moving part; if you could position those so they don't touch that'd be great.


Thanks! I´ll have look and see what i can do!

I printed the larger gap version on 9/21/13 with PLA on the Replicator 2. I printed at 240 degrees, high quality, using a raft. It came out perfectly. It just requires a bit of patience to clean up the raft and supports. Then I worked the worm gear for a while to get it to operate smoothly.

How did you design this is it one piece that you made or is it multiple pieces made and then assembled in solidworks then converted to stl?

I designed this one using a TopDown approach, meaning all parts are designed "in place" and then exported as a single STL.

Does anyone know what's going on with us have the parts fused together? All my calibration parts print perfectly, but I still get zero gap between the screw and countertooths. I finally got one wrench to work but I had to drop my print temp. This helped to break the moving parts free but weakens layer bonding..

I have been using Makerware and slicing with Skeinforge 0050

Every time I try this (or anything requiring tolerance), the parts print fused solidly together. Can anyone recommend what profile settings I should tweak to make this work? I really like this and the gear bearing but I always end up with one solid piece on my Replicator

What slicer are you using?

Finally had some luck in Makerware using sf 50. I had to use a custom profile with the extruder speed a little lower and layer width decreased as well.

Printed on a Makergear M2 with Simplify3D Creator software on 1.75mm blue ABS from SainSmart. 105C bed, 220C extruder.
No bed tape. Raft was 2 layer, 5mm offset, and 50% infill on the raft to hold the pieces
very steady. Rest of the infill was at 25%. Skirt was 2 layer, 0mm
offset with 2 outlines. Print quality set to High (0.15mm layer height),
top and bottom 3 layers as solid, 2 shells. Bed fan off. No printing issues, but the wrench was locked up tight.

Printed the more gap version, same parameters. I was able to remove the supports. The top clamp was free, but the screw was wedged tight. It just doesn't turn?

Mine too. That screw just won't budge!

I kept working with it. I probably made a good 10 attempts. But this is part of why I went with the Makergear M2. I knew from their high resolution Yoda print that the printer can really shine with a lot of tweaking. Although I think the print itself needs some adjusting on the sides of the screw.

Reduced to a 1 layer outline on the skirt. I adjusted the temperature to 225C for the first layer, then 220C for the rest. I felt that I needed more resolution to get better spacing, so I increased the object size by 50% (making it 9" long) and printed it diagonally on the bed (rotated 290 degrees). I decreased the layer size from .15mm to .12mm. It took some bed tweaking to get a stable print at that size, but arguably, it was worth it. It mostly required adjustment to the bed height (first with the Z access screw, later via the extruder offset in the Simplify3D Creator software) and some fine-tuning on the bed's leveling adjustment screws. The result is that I got that extra resolution, and it made it so where the screw was no longer completely welded to the sides.

Given the amount of effort I've put into this, I might just frame this thing and put it on the well.

Printed another. Failed in that the screw was wedged tight. I picked it apart and it looks like it is welded together to the rest of the wrench at the left and right side. Of course, once I totally removed the screw, I was able to move the clamp left and right just fine. I am trying to figure out if there is something I can do different.

How strong is it? How much does is weigh?

Awesome model! We printed it at the maximum size on a Makerbot Replicator , 25% infill, 2 shells. Support broke away beautifully, and it totally works!

Thank you! Out of all the comments here, yours is the most helpful to me. I will duplicate what you did, except I will do 40% infill as I am afraid that 25% may not be strong enough to work for real (not just a demo print but wanna do some real work with it). I don't wanna do 100% infill because that tends to warp. I never do anything more than 80% infill, especially with a long flat object like this.

Slic3r tells me that the model has holes in it it wont export proper gcode.

I'm having the same problem. Slic3r says it is not manifold and that it has overlapping or self-intersection facets. The gcode generated is useless (doesn't even remotely look like a wrench). Anyone have a solution?

At this point I've given up printing this!

I've printed it two times in blue translucent PLA and once using natural ABS. I have no warp problems, but I have yet had success at breaking off all the supports and getting things moving. I printed the original file and the larger gap file with 3mm PLA @ 0.2mm layer height, 30% infill, 3 perimeters, 205C, heated bed 60C. Both broke when attempting to remove the support. I reprinted in ABS using the larger gap part thinking the greater flexibility of ABS might help: 3mm ABS @ 0.2mm layer height, 30% infill, 3 perimeters, 240C, heated bed 110C. Broke as soon as I tried freeing the support.


Don't give up just yet! I'll think of something. I'll try to get back to you tonight! All right?

Maybe my infill is too low?

All I can say is it appears the gaps aren't wide enough for my particular printer setup...

I'll print that and report back.

Hi, just a couple of thoughts, first tho i'd like to comment on the last couple of posts, a fully assembled print with no assembly but some clean up. You could fix your car with it depending on your printer and what its printing with including metal.
OK I actually am here to say about,,parts printed next to each other,,,or a duel color print "and correct me if i'm wrong",,

a .1mm gap is required between a duel color print means the two prints are so close they weld together.
a .2mm gap is a weak weld.
a .3mm gap is a break away weld.
a .4mm gap is a gap "this would be my recomended gap between parts so they don't weld together."
a 1mm gap is for sure a gap.

This is based on my Replicator work.
Also unless your printing on a raft,,,sometimes a long abs print curls so i put a birds foot of plastic at the end to help hold it down.
Also i have two raft clamps, they are two strips of metal with bends at each end that grip onto the build plate and hold down the print,,i wait for the raft to print then the first layer of the print to see where it is then put the two clamps on. "my clamps are two peaces of mecano metal strips".

Does it print fully assembled, or do we have to assemble it after we print it?

It´s assembled. It´s designed so you can´t take it apart. Just print, remove support pieces and your good to go!

How many grams is it? How well does it work when printed with ABS?

Nice job! But could you fix your car with it? Grab a CNC machine and make it out of metal!

Hi, first, great PoC.

I tried printing it and still having issues... The original STL had to be repaired (my slicer thought it was broken). Now I tried several prints with the repaired one, all in ABS.

The bigger issue, the small parts would unstick from the hot bed, then bork all the print... also, the ends would eventually unstick and bend the tool, making further slices to get dragged...

FWIW, I'm on a Lulzbot ao-101

I Belive this maybe stolen probably not since on our dimesnion 1200es this is the test print

This one is modeled after an original Bahco wrench with alterations to fit reprap style printers.

Can someone upload (or send me) a gcode from a successful print for this. I would like to print but verify my slicer setting arent wacky before i start. i looked at my slicing and i'm not sure the screw will separate and work correctly ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/18qeiyuuh23jk36/Screen%20Shot%202013-08-31%20at%207.45.38%20AM.png)https://www.dropbox.com/s/18qe...

Awesome - Very well done - Printed on a Rep 2, white PLA and after breaking out the support and working it for a but it looks great.

Proof of concept - proven :)


Printed two, one with orange PLA, a second with black PLA. Neither worked. Still trying.

Same here. I printed the one with the wider gap with blue translucent PLA and it was better than the first, but it still did not work for me either. The support came out easier, but it was still a challenge. I ended up breaking it in the process of trying to free all of the parts. My next try will be with natural ABS.

Printed perfectly in PLA at both 20% and 80% fill (the wider gap model) with raft. Support came free with a bit of wiggling. Nice model.

Let me be clear. I reduced my Up printer temperature by 25 degrees by NOT USING a 20 buck switch, but soldered inline a 10 ohm resistor and drilled a 3/8 hole on a 45 degree angle in the fan shroud to get a bit of cooling. I figured I didnt want to mess with anything so I made it permanent except for the fact that I soldered a push button across both terminals of the resistor in case I have to check the value. Its my belief that the measuring component eroded over time, and maybe I would bring that resistance up if it would be required.

Anyway, everything released just fine. My only complaint is that the tolerances of the worm assembly are too great. On the existing model, I would thicken the worm screw's teethus by 5 thousands in every dimension.

Printed the old model at 20% infill and couldn't separate the moving part. Printed the new model with wider gap and removable parts, infill 50%, ABS, layer height 0,2mm, raft, support, but I broke it before I could make it move. Maybe it would work with infill 100% (which wasn't suggested) or vertically - enough plastic wasted for now.

That was on a R2X.

Next in line for printing with my Makergear Mosaic (M1) printer, need to print out spool holder first so i can leave my machine unattended for printing :)

Would you share the original file to us? Such as Blender/ 3D MAX. Because it is better to print the parts one by one to avoid stick together.

I would not mind sharing the original file but it is from TopSolid 7 and you need ....well TopSolid 7 to open it. I have however uploded a STEP file w/o support, i hope that will work out for you. If you need some other format let me know and i will see what i can do!

Hi, Fist off good work, making things that don't require assembly makes sence, i reckon this is the point of machines that are capable of doing it.
I'd like to make a suggestion when making a one print item,,"i know it depends on the printer ,,but,,,,,,link all parts of the first layer with strings,,,so first layer becomes one peace.
Currently there are aprox 8 indervidual parts trying to stick to the build plate, if one breaks off the whole print fails. "i know the strings require cleaning off but for a couple of seconds to pull them off is a small price to pay to improve odds of a successful print."
Thanks tho its a great creation.
Bye for now and be well from Will and Mr Data :) :]

Printed in ABS, and can't quite get the support punched out... Any suggestions?

I had same thing with PLA and Replicator 2 - support got really stuck with rest of design. I end up with breaking whole wrench to see - now I'm considering to scale it up a bit and see if that improves situation.

I´ve heard several having problems printing it in PLA. And i have made it as tight as i possibly could for demo purposes. By request i will do a version with bigger gaps.

That would be great! I will follow you and watch this wrench for new version to test :)

I have uploaded another version with more gap (0,55mm instead of 0,35mm) between parts. Let me know how it works out.

Thank you for the replies! I'm going to try to print the new version as well and see how it goes.

Now it works perfectly - Great idea with extending support for outside of the wrench. Thank you Daniel!

Nice job!!!! I printed this on my Rep 2, with PLA on a raft at the high setting. The worm gear is a little lose, but it works fine.

Tried and printed it. The screw got stuck.

OK we all know this works with the UP printer with an inline 10 ohm resister to reduce temp by 25 degrees. But This Doesnt Close. This needs a redesign, I expect nothing but the best.

Printed great. Thanks a lot. Very neat.

KISSlicer handles it just fine as is.

Can´t do it in slis3r

It worked for me with slic3r after running trough Netfabb. Printing now...

OK after Netfabb I have enlarged the model 25% printed by 25% in filling filament transparent PLA.

The support pieces are easily removed, but the release of the screw requires a bit of brute force.

Printed in MendelMax.

When slicing this with SF50 I'm getting tons of the following errors:
This should never happen, there is a hole in the triangle mesh, each edge should have two faces.
3999 [2657] [1343, 1345]
Something will still be printed, but there is no guarantee that it will be the correct shape.
Once the gcode is saved, you should check over the layer with a z of:

I'm going to import it into Netfabb and see if that helps.