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Dual Z-axis alignment bars

by Coder-Tronics Feb 27, 2016
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This is super useful to keep things in alignment.

I created a simple holder to keep the alignment bars right there with your printer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3766575

Holder for Z-axis alignment bars for Wanhao Di3
by fuchsr

hey guys im a noob here... i tried to print this but when i did the "ledge" that the Z bar would sit on printed very jagged and not "square" or "flat" (posted a pic under I MADE IT)...

any ideas on why that happened ?

It should not be necessary to disconnect the steppers. Heck, if you did that, you'd have to disconnect them every time you level the build platform, too. It is sufficient to just turn the power off, or, you can even just go to the menu and disable the steppers. In all of those cases there is no power to the windings in the stepper, and you are not "forcing" anything, and can be adjusted independently. The only argument that would make even minimal sense would be to remove any chance of induced current from moving the stepper shaft heading back into the electronics. But in the case of a stepper motor, the central toothed shaft is usually not itself magnetized (it is just attracted by the windings), so any induced current should be minimal.


I was asking if homing completely up at the two Z axes will align them correctly without any need of any tools ? i'am may be wrong, but it seems very sufficient, the two axes at their top end wil be aligned naturally.

Sorry, I dont get how disconnectiong the stepper-motors makes a difference, when the power is off during the whole process? I an adjust the z-axis one side only when the power off. Sorry Im a newbie, just trying to learn:)

Your still forcing the stepper. Personally i dont care.
If you really care you can disable the steppers.

Comments deleted.

This is a great idea and at the least it makes dialing in the z axis easier with out the thing falling over every time you go a tad to high lol. Thanks for sharing!

Just a suggestion -
I printed a set of these in PETG at the listed settings and they came out a bit more flexible than I'd like.
If using PETG, I suggest printing at a much higher infill percentage. Or just print in PLA / ABS.

That's interesting I have not printed in PET yet planning on changing the extruder first, I thought PET was supposed to be more ridged and stronger than PLA?

Compared to PLA (in my hands), PETG is much less brittle and has much stronger inter-layer bonding. Even in situations where you might've had a skip or an overhang and the layers separate a bit, PETG is very tough to tear apart where PLA might split very easily.

So, at comparable low infill levels, PETG parts can be a bit more flexible - albeit tougher to break - than PLA.

Disconnected the Z-axis motor connections? Can you till me how you did this? With the power off you can turn one at a time.

The Z axis motors have small molex connectors at the back, when the machine is off just pull them out. This allows you to adjust the motors independently then.

Just remember always best to have the printer off when pulling connectors in and out!

Hey, at least you gave attribution because I just busted someone who didn't (made after yours). I hate it when I see direct rip offs and no attribution which makes them a thief like those scum selling our work (yes, mine too) on eBay.

That is the fair and right thing to do. I have had issues with people copying and pasting text directly from some of my electronic tutorials, then posting them online without giving credit to my original work, very frustrating!

I new I wanted to level the Z-X axis gantry off the Y-axis linear rods, so the idea was mine in essence but not new. Always best to search to see if someone else has made something, then tweak as necessary to your requirement's.