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Sparky6548

Mario Themed Desk Lamp

by Sparky6548 Feb 27, 2016
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wow, look forward to doing this

Has any one remade this with pipe supports in the base. Or with the bottom underneath the pipe

Not sure what you are asking. I've only seen a couple of remixes, and those don't have anything to do with the pipes or the base.

General question but what was the total build time for this? Still new to 3d printing and just finished an object I have to clean up as it didnt piece together very well. Any issues with pausing the print job and continuing later? Worried about leaving it unattended.

By total build time are you referring to how long it took to design, test, and print it? If so, I don't remember for sure. Probably a month or two. This was one of my first designs, so there was a lot of time spent learning how to use 123D design and all of the quirks of 3D printing. Then there were the failed prints, modifications to design, wiring, and painting to consider. If you just mean how long to print all the parts, again I am not sure but best guess, not counting failed prints and reprints because things didn't fit, about 30 to 35 hours.

Makes sense and honestly seems like 30-35 hours is a solid for the amount of work needed for this. Havent done anything complex like this just yet but am definitely digging this entire design. Looks like you answered another curiosity of mine in regards to creating models as well. Saving for later but thanks for the contribution!

I'm glad you like the design. If you are thinking about learning to design 3D objects yourself, you should know that 123D design is no longer supported. Probably can't even download it anymore. I've started trying to learn a couple of other programs. Fusion 360 is the most popular one, but the user interface is causing me some problems. It's made by the same company as 123D, but that's where the similarity ends. The workflow, keystrokes, and mouse actions are completely different. Makes it hard to learn for me because nothing seems to do what I expect. I will eventually learn it because it is very powerful and keeps a timeline so you can go back and make changes that automatically propagate through all of your subsequent additions to your design. Very nice, but difficult for me to learn.

Lately, I have also been using OnShape. It also has a different workflow, but at least the mouse and keyboard do what I expect. It's more like drafting. You draw your object in different views and then extrude them into 3D models. Both programs have a free version and a lot of free videos to help you learn.

Either way, learning to design your own models is a great way to get the most out of your 3D printer.

Wonderful ... congratulations !!!

Listen but do you have to print 1 piece per type?
Is it possible to have the list of quantities of the pieces to be printed?

You don't need to print all of the parts. There are a few options. For instance, you can choose to print either 4 elbow halves or 2 elbows if you can get them to print properly.

In any case, you will need a piranha plant stem (straight or curved), piranha plant head, piranha plant leaves, bead chain hanger, bead chain cover, wall, pipe switch, pipe warp(2 ea), tee, pipe plugs, lampshade, and Mario. You will also need your choice of pipe lengths to build your lamp however you want and enough couplings to connect them together and make the top part of the warp pipes. The lampshade lid is optional, but please don't use it unless you are using LED's for the light. Any incandescent lamp will be too hot with the lid on and will melt the plastic.

Can this be printed with pla, or must you use abs

PLA will work just fine.

Thank you for quick answer

I will try to print it
this will be my first ever print with my new cr-10s

hi now what plug do i use to plug it into the wall

Use whatever plug is appropriate for the socket you need to plug into. What I did was use a cord from an appliance that no longer worked. That way, not only am I recycling an otherwise useless part, but I have a nice molded plug on the end of the cord.

The lampshade is only 3 layers thick, so there should not be any infill. If you are referring to the question marks, there could be some lines there caused by infill. In that case, either increase the infill to 100% or add more shells to the outline/perimeter setting. Other than that, it's hard to say what caused your problem without seeing it.

my lampshade has lines through it , not completely transparent, how do i fix this?

Can someone help with dimensions.. I open some files in S3D and they are all different sizes.. like the small tube looks right but then when I open the chain cover it's the size of the entire build plate. Are some in inches and some in mm?

Everything is scaled in mm.

Maybe you have something set wrong in S3D or maybe your copy is corrupted. I just loaded the bead chain cover into S3D 4.0.1 and it was the right size (10.2 mm Dia X 11.5 mm tall). Not even sure how you would get it that big unless you went to edit and clicked on scale inches to mm.

Sorry. It's the bed_chain_hanger that is scaled to 2540% when I open it. I scale it down to 100% and it's fine. I guess I might have a baddownload, but it's a simple fix. Great design. Thanks for sharing.

Here is the list of files for those of you who want to make just the piranha plant in the warp pipe:
piranha_plant_stem_straight.stl
pipe_warp.stl
Piranha_plant_leaves.STL
piranha_plant_stem_curved.stl
coupling.stl
Piranha_Plant_Head.stl

Hello, just wondering what you used as the top of the piranha plant pipe. Was it the coupling?
Thanks a lot!

Yes, the piranha plant stem goes into the receptical in the bottom of the pipe_warp.stl and then a coupling is glued to the top of the pipe.

Hi, can you show me a link (amazon or ebay) to the lampholder did you use in the pipe plugs?
Many thanks

It's just a candelabra base socket with a threaded shoulder. I don't remember if I bought it or if it was one that I had on hand. It was similar to this one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Satco-90-1556-Phenolic-Candelabra-Shoulder/dp/B000V54ICK/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1524089269&sr=8-10&keywords=candelabra+socket
but you could use anything with a similar mounting system. Others have used LEDs, which is probably a better option due to heat from the incandescent lamp and the fact that the lamp is plastic. You could even use this socket and one of the candelabra based LED lamps like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Candle-Candelabra-Incandescent-Replacement/dp/B016X4QE1A/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1524090165&sr=8-33&keywords=led+candelabra+lamp

Playing the new Odyssey this has really stuck out to me.

I saw you said you were having trouble printing the pipes whole. I got it to work. I turned the model so the ring end of one side of the pipe is flat on the bed, then I generated support for anything with over a 65 degree overhang then eliminated anything I knew wouldn't be a helpful support,(the limit of pla I have found on my printer at least) printed great that way. wish the plastic I bought for the job wasn't such an inconsistent color.

Was wondering if you had anything special for printing the shade. I would assume a 20% infill would make the image weird. is it solid or hollow?

I can see where turning the pipes could let them print that way. It would certainly take a lot less time and filament. I never tried any orientation other than the way they lay when downloaded. After a few failed attempts, I just cut them in half so I had a flat surface to lay against the bed. I left the uncut ones in the published thing just in case someone with a better printer or more experience than me could print them without having to glue parts together. It has been nearly 2 years since I made this design. It was one of my first, and I only had a couple of months experience with 3D printing at the time. If I were to print it today, I might give your method a try.

As for the shade, it's solid. The difference between 20% and 100% is only a few minutes of printing time. Most of the lampshade is so thin (1.4mm) that the only fill would be in the question marks, and I'm pretty sure that whatever infill pattern you choose for them would show through when the lamp is on, so I recommend printing it at 100%.

Thanks for your comment, and be sure to post your make when you get done.

Nice I have a lot of 1 1/2 inch and 2 inch Pvc pips and fittings, just waiting to be used lol Could be a nice project for them.

Yeah, I made one of these out of 1 1/4" ABS plumbing parts a few years before I got my printer. Thought it would make a good 3D printed project that would also teach me CAD. Turns out, it's my most popular design by a factor of 10. Glad you like it.

I'm printing this now, I realized that you didn't include a lid for the coin block. Does it work ok as a lamp without a top? I'll post pics as soon as I get done.

If you are referring to the lampshade, then yes, it is designed to be a lamp. The top is open because of heat from the bulb. The lamp base is connected through the bottom of the lampshade. Look at the cuttaway.pdf file. It shows how the lamp base is connected and how it is wired.

I suppose if you wanted to have the top covered, you could make a top for it, but then you would need to use a low voltage LED for the lamp. Otherwise, you take a chance of melting the plastic or maybe causing a fire.

any chance of uploading a lid ??? im running into the missing top issue as well.

Mine is LED powered with white led strips in the corners of the box to avoid the one light source issue. Should make the box glow.

Would be a nice option to included it with the files if a lid can be added :)

Thanks again for the awesome design, gf and I are huge mario fans.

OK, I've uploaded a lid for the lampshade. I gave my original lamp to one of my grandchildren, so I can't test it for fit. I always like to make sure things print and fit before I upload them, but since I don't have the original lampshade anymore, I can't do that. It should be a perfect (or near perfect) fit, but if you have a problem, let me know and I'll try to fix it.

Also, if you don't mind, I'd like to see how it looks with the lid. Please post your make.

As far as your piranha plant head goes, did you print that in red filament and paint on the white or print it in white filament and paint in the red? Or did you just paint everything? I've got spray paints and a small box of paints stashed from a model kit but man, it just looks so precise and I know I don't have a steady hand. I'm working on printing parts out to make this but paranoid about how well it'll turn out. My red filament looks orange almost so I'm thinking of spray painting my base but that plant and Mario are what are going to hurt me. Haha! I'm going to do Mario in a white filament. I'm just going to have to be as precise as I can be and hope for the best. Thanks for sharing this as it really is awesome and I'm sure excited to get it finished.

I printed it in red, then painted the white. The tricky part was doing the teeth. It's hard to get all around them without getting white paint on the inside of the mouth.

As for Mario, I printed him in blue as I recall, then painted the other colors on that. Just be patient and keep paper towels, cotton swabs, and water to handy clean up mistakes. I have recently started using paint pens from the craft store for the detail work. It helps a lot.

Good luck, and please post your make when you finish!

Thank you very much! One last question? How did you get the pipes to fit so well in the base? Mine practically slide right through and I feel like if I use glue, it still won't be thick enough to stick to the base or at least there may be a slight gap on one side of the pipe. I don't have a thick glue and not sure how to get them to stay without sinking right through.

Hmm. It's been almost 11 months since I posted this lamp, but as I recall the pipes fit well enough to glue them with super glue. I didn't even glue the two smaller pipes until much later when i gifted the lamp to a granddaughter. I'm sorry you are having trouble.

If the gap is too big for super glue, you could 'weld' them from the bottom using a short length of filament chucked into a drill. The friction from the spinning filament will melt it and let you weld the pipes. Another option would be to use hot glue (again, from the underside). I suggest trying these options on some test pieces before doing it to your real pipes though.

Also, I just remembered something pertaining to painting the model. I used some bamboo skewers that I liberated from the kitchen to do the fine detail work on Mario. You could use wooden toothpicks if you don't have skewers. Just dip the tip into the paint and go for it. Worked great for his eyes, the M on his hat, and getting into tight places without getting paint all over everything.

Hey, no problems! Thanks a lot for answering my questions and for the advice. When you printed out the Mario, did yours have small gaps in the head by the ears and hat? I printed with a 20% infill and it looks like the head is hollow, as I can see through from one side to the other. I could take pictures if you'd interested in seeing. If you have any more helpful tips or some advice, I'd be grateful. If you can't tell, I'm pretty new to all this, just got a printer for Christmas and this is my first, "big" project. I've printed a few other things but this one is one that requires more time and attention. I'm really enjoying it tho and can't wait till it's finished! Getting closer! Thanks again!

Yeah, the inside of the head is partially hollow. Mario is not one of my designs. I am not an artist, and could never do that good of a job trying to create Mario from scratch. I did a huge amount of searching for a model that world work with my project, and this one was the closest I could find to what I envisioned. It wasn't originally designed to be 3D printed, so the designer didn't try to make it 'manifold'. I did some work on it in Meshmixer to make it watertight and add the bead chain connector, but my skill level at that time (2 months after getting my printer) didn't allow me to fix all of the problems with it. It worked for me, and as far as I know, for the others who have done this project. If I was doing this project today, I would probably just buy a toy Mario (or Luigi, Wario, Yoshi, or maybe all of the above) and scan it, then edit the scan for my model.

That said, it should be possible to fix the problems with the model using Meshmixer or other mesh editing software. I don't have the ambition or time to do it myself, but if you want to take a crack at it, go for it! The best way to learn this stuff is to just jump in and do it. Remember, YouTube is your friend when it comes to learning 3D stuff.

hii printed mario 3 times befor it wase ok ,all fits together good ,fited a swith on the base and it works, many thanks for this very good job.

Thank you. I also had difficulty printing Mario. It took a while to find the one I wanted, then a number of tries to get a good print. I used a pull chain switch with Mario hanging from it to switch the lamp on and off, but a switch on the base is also a good option. I'd love to see your make when it's finished.

Ok very nearly printed all the parts, little confused at what goes were, points I'm struggling on are...the 2 tubes in the base,the plant and the middle one, and the one into the lamp.could you give me a breakdown of the file names for each base section if possible....thanks for your time

I used pipe_short for the bottom of the lamp assembly, that couples to pipe_medium or pipe_long, depending on how tall you want the finished lamp to be. Whichever one you choose couples to one side of the tee. The center of the tee couples to another pipe_short, then to one of the elbows. That elbow gets the pipe_plug with the hole in it for the lamp socket (don't glue it) and the lamp shade. the other side of the tee couples directly to the other elbow, which then couples to the pipe_switch, which gets the switch in it. Then the other pipe_plug couples to the end of the switch_pipe (don't glue it either, so you will always have access to the electrical connections).

The other two pipes are both pipe_warp, and either of them can have the piranha plant.

In reading my original description on Thingiverse, I just noticed that I only call for one each of the pipe_short and the pipe_warp. Sorry about that, it should be 2 each. Maybe that's what led to your confusion.

that's way better explanation lol, thanks mate really appreciate it.

I'm planning on starting this, this week, being an absolute noob when it comes to electrics, can anyone point me in the right direction for a UK fittings of both the light fitting and the switch, I can't seem to find any anywhere that is the same as this .
And I take it wiring is not to difficult?

Thanks for any help
J

Sorry, live in the US, so don't know where to look in UK. However, after a quick search on Amazon UK I found this switch:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dimart-Lighting-Ceiling-Switch-250VAC/dp/B00PFAVAZY/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1468388616&sr=8-53&keywords=pull+chain+light+switch

which is nearly identical to the one I used in the original. As for the lamp socket, I didn't find anything comparable on Amazon UK. Probably because of voltage differences and maybe different styles of sockets used there. Maybe someone more familiar with local hardware can help you find the correct socket. I recommend something low wattage, perhaps LED based to keep the heat inside the lampshade down.

Good luck, and thanks for deciding to print my design.

Cheers sparky for the quick reply, really appreciate it, thanks for the links, I'll do some more research, I'm just printing another lamp off here, and have the parts, so I may print the part and see if the socket I have fits.
I'll stick the pics up when it's all sorted.

Great print..

its a great print and really fits together well as soon as i can print off the mario ill upload pics

Wonderful! Great Job, I love it

Thank you for your kind words :)

Mate you ve done a fantastic job with this im printing one as we speak for my office desk :P will post pics when complete

Very nice. What is your total print time for this (not including the junk and test pieces you created along the way)?

Don't know exactly... for the reasons you mentioned. Spent an inordinate amount of time trying to get a decent print of a Mario model. Most of the ones I tried were not designed for 3D printing and had real issues. Best guess, not counting failed prints and reprints because things didn't fit, about 30 to 35 hours.