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Lithophane Lamp Structure

by Mafo Feb 25, 2016
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So the Lithophane is 100% infill..
but even the cube parts has to be 100%?

nop, the cube 4 perimeters and 3 layers top/bottom, infill 15% ;)

The corners yes ;)

The distance of the holes to screw the G9 bulb socket does not fit. Have bought a standard G9 socket from the electronics business. Unfortunately, I can now fix the socket with only one screw! Can you fix that?
Or is the distance not a norm?

I have attached a Photo ;)

Hello again!

I am making and other lamp to publish improvements and d i have cheked the holes. I don't kbow what happen. They show perfect in my shockets (look the picture where i have printed only the socket's stand) . Maybe screws too big? When I finish the lamp i wil checked again.


With my G9 Socket only one Hole fots, the other not!
Is the distance between the two Holes not standardized?

well... I don't know, rightly you sockets are differents than mines.... so I don't know why...

thank for your review, I am going to check the measures.

Hello everybody!
I would like to create my first photograph or print it according to this manual, but with 3DProcks.
Do I have to select in 3dprocks positive or negative image?

And with witch Infill should i print the Litho? Lines?Triangle?Gyro?...

you should print them with 100% infill

and should i Print it with a Brim?
And is 0.2 Layer Height not too much?
Sorry for the many Questions, this is my first Lito with my new Ender 3 Pro =)

And did you mean with 130mm Height and Width?
And how or whith witch Program could i resize it for my Picture Size?

first of all, great work and thanks for sharing it with us.
since the sockets you used for the G9 are a bit difficult to get where i'm living i would like to modify your design a bit,
do you have by chance Fusion 360 files for it or some which i could import in it?
thanks in advance

You can buy it easly here, https://www.ebay.es/sch/sis.html?_nkw=5x+G9+Base+Ceramic+Lamp+Holder+Socket+Halogen+LED+Bulb+Down+Light&_id=172932080624&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

In fact, G9 shocks is the best design for this lamp, the other lights no LEDs are hot and that is terrible for the lamp, in year I have tested that the best light/size is for G9 bulbs.

thanks a lot for the link.
since im planing to do some other modifications it would be great if you would have any files i could use in Fusion 360.
otherwise i will fully re-design it, but it would be great if you have some files i could start with.

It may be posted somewhere, but can you actually buy the socket somewhere? The only place I can find it takes wiring and I'm not sure if I trust my wiring skills enough.

Hi friend and good work!! i have cura and tell me about 12 hours of works for lower panel...how i can set my fastest speed for a good result? thanks a lot

I have not seen a kit with socket and wires together sorry.

I have a question, What size should I print my lithophane so they could fit comfortable in the frames ?

I'm surprised nobody came up with a lazy Susan for this.

Thanks! Some how I missed this.


with the Lithophanes software, do you put the picture into negative with the negative tag? for a better image?


with this software I don't do click in "negative", no worries for that but I don't compare the result with this option so if you want tested it...

What settings to yall use to create the lithophane in Cura? Im trying to make these as a gift and they keep coming out wrong. I crop the picture to a square before I do it.

I don't use Cura but in the description you can read my Slicer Settings

What settings to yall use to create the lithophane in Cura? Im trying to make these as a gift and they keep coming out wrong. I crop the picture to a square before I do it.

I am in the USA and I was having difficulty finding a bulb for the Lamp Cube. I made a bracket for one I found on Amazon.



Lithophane Lamp Cube LED Bulb Bracket
by Irdala

Do you use white or transparent filament for your lithophanes?

you can use any light colour: white, natural, light blue, light green.... :)

But I use white. Transparent won't a good choise.

Do you print the lithophane laying flat on the bed, or vertical?

Going vertical will yield much nicer results an eliminate any stringing issues that would be associated with printing flat.

Also printing @ .1 helps tighten everything up, making for more crisp picture.

yes, but you must be very careful with the contact panel with the nozzle, you must have a nice calibration in your axis to avoid the hitings to the panel.

If your nozzle is hitting any of your prints it's not set up right, nozzle should never touch anything.

You should also use a brim of at least 10 lines
When printing anything with very little surface contact.

exactly, but for this panel we only have 3mm width but 130mm height, the minimun hitting will separete the panel to the bed. Remember that all users don't have a perfect calibration.

Yes as stated, that is what brim is for.

Flat of course! :)

You get better results printing vertically i think. Could i have the original files please to edit so i can add screw holes to hold everything together?

You can test it and then coment here :)

You won't need screw to hold everything, really you don't need nothing BUT if you want touch the lamp without fear you only need a blob of blue to fit the vertexs. I fit with this way and it is very strong.

I printed the G9 baseplate and the 4 corners.
But when I wanted to see whether they match I saw that the "quarter-circle" part of the baseplate is to big.
So the corner wont fit into the baseplate.
Am I the only one with this issue or is there something I should have considered?

Please have a look at my attached picture.
I marked the "problem-area" blue there.

Sorry for my english so far.


Do you have this problem in all cornes or only in one of them?

HAve you used ABS right? If you have problem in alls, maybe you used ABS and this material make the piece wider, I have this same problem when I use ABS but with PLA any, The solution is THE KNIFE! xD you can make thighter the corner and the column until fixed.
You can't see this repair so don't worry if you think that it won't look nice ;)

I have the same problem, could you reduce the "quarter circles" of the base a bit so that they fit well into the corners?

for you the problem is that the corners in the down part are too big and the can assembly with the base, right?

This is normal, I repeat, if you use ABS the 3-5 first layer are wider becauase they are closer nozzle to the bed, so the only solution is remove material with the knife until the right dimensions and then use glue like always to fixed. With PLA this problem doesn't exist or is smaller.

That depend or your printer and your settings: if you printer throw more plastic or nor, if the step are fine or not....

Use the Knife but be carefull with your fingers and DON'T BREAK THE CORNER!

I have printed the box without problem.
For the litho I'm using the first software with recommended (3 september comments and the video from Bazz)
But I must have forget something : when I import the STL file under Cura 3D (old and latest version) I have a Z of 4mm, not 3 !
I have manually put a Z of 3, waiting for the result but it shouldn't but good :(
Do you have any advice ?

Thanks for your help, great model !!


well... in fact I don't know what happen here! if you select 3mm in Z, the STL have to have 3mm! Maybe the litho can have a few diference like around 2,98-3,2mm but 4?? it is too much! In fact, I now when I made a litho I select 2,8mm in Z and the Slicer say me, it is 3,1mm... I don't know the reason but I think that you have 3 options.

1º Use slicer
2º change Z height until cure has 3mm in Z
3º Change to other computer with. I have had problems with my Card Grahips Computer with this first program until the latest version. Now, I can work.


Thanks for your reply !
It's really strange : when I put "3" or "2,98" on Z with the first software (who transform the picture into STL file) I got "4" under Cura.
But I have tried with 2,5 and now it works (ie :I have "3" on Z under Cura). Also I don't have a 130x130 size but a 129x130 (still under Cura) even if it's not a problem here.
I think that it should work better with "2,7" too because with "2.5" I have holes on the final product.

Anyway great model, was a Christmas homemade gift success :). Thanks for this great works !!


I am making a lamp now and yesterday I had the same problem than you! I put 2,8 with the firts software and Slic3r said me 4,2mm!! WTF? So.. I tested a few solutions:
I re-made the the STL but with putting 3mm, Slicer now said 3,2mm in Z, so I re-made again other STL but with 2,85mm, Slic3r said now 3,05mm....so... I don't now why when I put 2,8mm the software made it with 4mm.. maybe there is a problem with the version in a few ocasions. But is true that this software must improve this point, but anybody will make a v2.0 so we must get used.

BUT! IMPORTANT! I recommend to you and everyone that before use Cura or Slic3r to build the G-Code, you must repair the STL. First STL is made with a lot of problems and it is not manifold, Slic3r has a option in "file" to say "Repair STL" to solve it, I don't know if cura too.

I see that the reliëf site is in the inside off the lamp. Didn't we get a better result with the reliëf site on the outside?

Here is a short video on a panel is made


Thanks so much for your video. it is very useful but... I should to say a little mistakes with the software.

1º Click 1000 pixels. With 1000 you will have more resolution in your STL file BUT of course it will be bigger file.
2º The most importante mistake: select 5mm Edge, you need it to assembly the panel to the structure, with edge, it will be easier.
3º Tickness: 0.2mm if your height layer print is 0.2.

BUT you have been excellents lithophanes... so good job!

Comments deleted.

Do u have a link for that E27 socket? I've found couple on Amazon but unlike yours, they all can't be screwed to the base.
Thank you..

I bougth in my local shop... but it this shocket https://www.amazon.es/Electraline-71140-Portal%C3%A1mparas-porcelana-escuadra/dp/B00EAQW9EA/ref=sr_1_44?ie=UTF8&qid=1503996389&sr=8-44&keywords=e27+portalamparas

BUT I recommend to you that should print the G9 version, more cheaper and easier assembly and it look better in the lamp.

how long should each picture take to print? I've been printing over an hour and the printer still says 0%, I'm concerned I'm doing something wrong.

well.... With Slicer I must to wait around 10min-2.5h to compilate the gcode. And 3-4,5h to print.

what software is simple to use to resize photo down to 130mm, without loosing distortion,

I explained it at the end of the summary :)

Man que show !! Fantastico mestre! Obrigado. Thank´s a lot ;)

hi, noob question, how do i convert any image to in scale of 1301303
in order to fit the boxes i print. any recommendation ?!
i am using Impressora 3D application

yeah! noob question... please read read the "Sumary" in "thing details. All your question are there

I see you put the lithopane's detailed part facing the lamp. I tried doing that, but i can't get good level of detail. Is there any other setting apart from infill and resolution? Thanks.


I update the coments to explain my settings to print lithophanes. If you have more question please don't dude to ask me :)

pdt: the lithos can to see better with the reserve side. Look the dogs lamp in the pictures, is with the back side in the panel, the other lamp (my face) is with the normal side.

Nice job,
Dou you have the reference for the bulb socket please?



Well... if you ask by the size... Is for a tipycal bulb, the big but maybe the small, you can to adaptate it.

Did you scale the lithopanes up to 130mm? What thickness did you use?

Sorry.. I fogot to say that. I have corrected it "the structure is made for panels of 130x3mm MAX"

Nice simple structure. Its very close to what i'm looking to make. The one thing I would suggest is to make the design so that it doesn't need to be glued together but snap together or perhaps using screws so that the lithophanes can be replaced with new ones when desired. Nice work though. If you do look to make some changes, please let me know. I would be very interested in making a couple of lamps like this, if that is ok with you of course.

I think that you are confused the use to the glue, this is only for the structure (for oranges parts only) the lithophanes doesn't need glue ;)

And you can to made this lamps, many as you want, nobody can forbid it to you, this website is made for that, share freely their designs.

I understand. So gluing the structure together to make it sturdy then leaves the panels stuck inside yes? Or one would have to leave the top unglued. That is possible but doesn't make the structure very strong. Would be more sturdy to have screws or clips of some kind. I'll look for ways to weigh the whole frame down a bit. I plan to use usb LEDs instead of a full size light bulb. Because I prefer to print in PLA and don't want to make it too hot. I will print one once my replacement printer arrives.

Thanks. I always like to ask. I know it's free to use. Just a courtesy. :-)

ops, yes, my fault. If you don't want , You won't need gluing the top panel, if you don't do it, it will be strong don't worry, believe me. Of course, if you won't changes the lithophanes is better gluing it but you must believe me, if you don't hit the lamp, you won't have problems with or without glue. The original idea was built the lamp without glue.

I know that with screws the lamp will be more strong but not everyone have/want/can put screw, so.. I will designed this thinking of simplicity. About the clips... well... my design works like little clips.

About that you prefer in PLA, you can make it perfectly. My lamp is made of PLA. You only will need to buy the light more smaller, for example the lenght of my light (not LED) is 45 mm without bulb cap, 9W and 405Lm and I haven't problems. The less prowerfull is better, you only need find the perfect balance of light/powerfull. The first test, I tried with a light of 11W, 550Lm and 60mm, after 1 hour the bulb reaches +-80ºC and the lithophane -+60ºC... and when I turn off the lamp and it cooled, I could see that the lithophane wasn't plane, but when I turn on the lamp -+20 minutes, it righted itself.

But well, I'm sure that I won't have more problems with this new bulb. But you can to buy a LED light like lights bulb. I prefer this option but I couldn't found a light with LEDs 360º with Cool/white colour so I had to buy a normal light. :(