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1.75MM filliament Wade's Reloaded Extended height Hexagon Mount Extruder

by piercet Feb 19, 2016
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Hi I've successfully printed your design here in ABS -- slight deformation in it due to curling of ABS but I don't think it's substantial enough to have to print another..

I am wanting to build a new extruder head with this 1.75 body and .3mm hex hot end so I can easily change out my 3.00 body and .5mm hex hot end extruder head so I can easily switch back and forth from 1.75mm filament and 3.00mm filament...

So far I've only printed the taller extruder body and the idler arm. Do I have to also print the latch and spacer? Is it required for this set up? I'm looking at these parts and don't understand where they fit in the equation.

Do you have step by step instructions for building a 1.75 extruder head or is there a resource out there that exist? I need to understand what other hardware I need other than the m3 50mm bolt for example.


The latch is not required, but it does help with opening and closing the idler chamber during a print. The spacer on the other hand is somewhat required. It goes between the extruder body and the extruder mount and allows the upper bolt to tightly secure the extruder body to the upper mounting hole, increasing rigidity. Without that spacer you either can't get it tight enough, or attempting to do so would crack the extruder body. I usually glue the spacer to the back side with something like plastruct bondene glue.

To build this extruder, it's essentially identical to assembling the stock lulzbot extruder except for the taller mount piece. Instructions for building the stock extruder are here:
and the hot end itself is here:

The differences are that you would want to purchase a 1.75mm hexagon hotend body with a 1.75mm size .3mm nozzle. You want to have the filament as closely constrained as possible until it reaches the nozzle tip. You could use the 1.75mm body with a 3.00mm hotend, but its going to have significant retraction issues if you do.

Thanks those links help a lot!

Where can I find an 8mm smooth rod? I've already got the 608 bearings
How about the motor and fans?

Do I just need to print the same fan duct on the original extruder head and that should work fine?

The fans are a bit tricky. Depending on which version of the carriage you are making, you may want different fans. The centeral bore cooling fan that cools the hexagon barrel itself is a 5 volt fan, and on the Taz 5 it uses this fan https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/micro-blower-55v That fan is also terrible. On the taz 6 style chassis they switched to a different style. For a filament cooling fan you would want this one https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/40mm-pelonis-low-flow-fan You will also want to investigate what type of plug you have on your harness.
The easiest source of an 8mm rod would be this idler arm assembly: https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/beefy-idler-assembly
you could use that as a replacement on your existing stock extruder and harvest its rod for your 1.75mm version, or just pull the rod out of it.
You may also want a set of stock Idler arm tension springs: https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/spring-6-pack-6mm-od-97mm-fl
Other springs will work, but that would make it easier to keep your tension settings consistent between extruder heads.
Another thing to consider would be a stock lulzbot hobbed bolt. https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/hobbed-bolt-50mm-hex-head That would keep the depth of the hobbs more consistent, leading to a closer e-steps value between print heads.
The motor I would recommend is the Taz 6 style Moons stepper motor https://www.lulzbot.com/support/nema-17-stepper-motor-moons-including-adapter It's a bit quieter than the ones used on the taz 1-5, same voltage, same mounting points, a bit more precise.

The stock fan duct from the original extruder head should work fine. You may also need to look into installing "Heat set inserts" in this case specifically M3 heat set inserts. You can source those from McMaster carr or itworks3d.com . If you don't want to mess with installing heat set inserts, they do sell the carriages separately. Here's the taz 5 style https://itworks3d.com/product/lulzbot-extruder-mount-hex-v1-taz-5/ as well as the Taz 6 style https://itworks3d.com/product/lulzbot-taz-6-dual-fan-hextruder-mount-v0-5/ (The 6 style will fit a taz 5, but you have to clearance the left side fan duct so it doesn't hit the limit switch.

All the printable files for those things are in download.lulzbot.com

They might have the connector housings you will need. https://itworks3d.com/product/molex-1-row-connector-housings/ https://itworks3d.com/product/molex-2-row-connector-lulzbot-tool-heads/ looks like they also have the idler shaft https://itworks3d.com/product/idler-shaft-smooth-rod/

Here's the 1.75mm variant hexagon body https://itworks3d.com/product/hexagon-1-75-mm-hot-end-kit/

Other than that you'll just need the bolts for everything. The idler arm ones are M4, I forget how long. The hotend to extruder bolts are M4 I think 12mm long? The idler arm bolt is an M3 25mm I think? You'll definitely want the washers for the idler arm latch bolts. The idler arm stock bolts have press fit thumbscrew ends on them. I don't see those for sale in itworks or the lulzbot store. Standard bolts will also work. You should be able to find most of the extruder parts in either of those stores.

Sweet. Thanks for the detailed reply. Now I can place a singular order, much appreciated.

Is there any special tools required for the wire assembly? ie: soldering iron?? or is it all plug in play with the connector housings??

Also, when I loaded your extended extruder head body for this 1.75mm model into Cura it showed the designed-in supports.. however when I went to print the part on my taz 5 for some reason it flat out did not print the circular supports you put in? I had to modify your model to remove the supports to create free space then generate regular supports. Do you know why that is??

Also experiencing pretty extreme warping with ABS & I have a printer enclosure -- temp gauge is showing consistent print environment inside the enclosure. Any ideas why? Wish I could just print it in PLA.. those always turn out great.

No problem!

The pins for all the Lulzbot extruders are crimped on, not soldered. I've found the tool that works the best out of everything I have tried is the "Engineer PA-09" crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/. its a slightly smaller version of the Engineer PAD-11 which has a few more features, but I find the compact size and crimp profile of the PA-09 is slightly easier to use for the lulzbot pins. You can also use that for E3Dv6 thermristor crimp barrels too. itworks3d has the pins and sockets too if you need them https://itworks3d.com/product/connector-pins/ though I usually just get them in bulk from DIgikey. You'll want the ones listed as "molex" from itworks3d for the extruder pins. The larger pins they list are used in the extruder cables where they enter the case of the Taz 5. You'll also want a wire stripper. There are some good videos about crimping pins with the pa-09 on youtube that are well worth the watch if you get one. It turns out I was crimping pins wrong for years.

The built in support should work fine. but for some reason Cura thinks it is too small and omits it. It works just fine in Slic3r though which is what I use.

regarding warping, usually that indicates your bed is too cold or your nozzle is too far away from the bed at start. Try 110c for the bed, and if that doesn't work try 115c and possibly adjust the Z offset in the LCD slightly closer. You can also lightly sand the PEI film with 600 grit sandpaper to get better adhesion. Also try cleaning it, it may have some hand oils on the surface from removing a part that are interfereing with adhesion. Isopropyl alchohol or Acetone (assuming it doesn't contain any oils, never use fingernail polish remover as a cleaner for example) will work fine to clean it, and i'd try that before you sand it.

There are some other tricks to try with ABS as well if you go further down that route. Things like the Aluminum core bed you see in this thing showing my printer bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2611115 . Glass is an insulator and really a terrible bed material. Aluminum is a heat spreader and works really, really well there.

Some people have had good luck printing extruder bodys with things like Ngen, which doesn't tend to warp like ABS but has a similar melting temperature. I haven't tried it personally though.

Back brace Reinforcement for Taz 1-6 Printers and other 20mm extrusion frames
by piercet

Okay so I was pricing out everything tonight and few more questions..

I'm not quite sure why I need the following "Single row connector housings"?

I am looking at the current extruder head for my 3.00mm set up now and don't see these connectors anywhere on it? Maybe this is a silly question but I don't see them :P

The following "Double row connector housings" are required with the connector pins so I can plug into the cable at the top of the extruder mount, correct? How are these pins installed? Are there any good youtube videos you could point me to??

For the connector pins, I know you mentioned I will need the "Molex" option but there appears to be several options for molex pins, which are the proper ones?

Sorry for all the questions.. I've justn ever built an extruder head from nuts and bolt pieces before.. Want to make sure I fully understand what is needed so I can build this successfully.


Oh, as for how the pins are installed, once you crimp them, you jyst slide them forward until the metal spring flap locks into place. If it doesn't lock, you either have the pin backwards or managed to squish the metal flap while crimping (other crimper than the pa 09 are much easier to mess that bit up) you can lift it back up and bend it into place a couple of times with a hobby knife if needed. The housing has small square holes cut out in the sides if it, that metal flap goes in there.

Some taz 5's used the single row connectors, others used the double row ones. I linked both so you have the option, but you will only need one or the other. In your case probably the double ones.

Here is a good video using the socket side female pins that usually would be the harness side ones https://youtu.be/XvdePo12vIM . Basically you hold the pin loosely in the crimper without crimping it, slide the wire in from the back until the stripped part is in and the first part of the jacket is past the set of jacket arms, then you crimp the pin. Then you slide it forward and loosely crimp the jacket. In your case you would probably be using the male pins. You probably want the Molex 0016020108 male pins in this case, not the larger TE connectivity ones. The 0016020097 ones are the female side.

No worries! Always good to plan for success and do your research, and I'm happy to help.

Would this work on a Taz Mini? I have an extra tool head now that I have a v2.1 and I want to try and use for experimenting with, different nozzles and using up some 1.75 I am stuck with

The height extended version wouldn't work as intended for the Taz, since the upper mount hole would be off You could still use it without the upper mount, but a better solution for the Mini specifically would be this one: http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/fangtooth_guppy/

Thats the stock lulzbot 3.00mm extruder narrowed for 1.75mm. You may still want to grab the 1.75mm specific idler from this project though, as there isn't one presently in the guppy folder. THe 3.00mm one will still work, it's just a potential point for flex in the fillament and less accuracy without it.

Thanks! I will print up some bits and see what I come up with. I am looking forward to stepping off the beaten path as it were, with modding from stock.

The Taz 6 goes on sale tomorrow, and I am sorely tempted by that as well. lol

it looks liek this has a tighter fitment around the hobbed bolt and idler. In theory it whould work a tonne better with flex type fillaments right?

Yes, this one and it's matching 3.00mm counterpart do have better flexible filament performance due to the extended section. It works pretty well.

I have a couple of questions...

Is this compatible with the Taz 6?
If this is printed in ABS, will the heat from the extruder have any affect on this in the future?


This is fully compatible with the Taz 6 carriage. The carriage shown in the picture is actually my modified reinforced carriage, which is basically the same profile as the Taz 6 carriage with extra reinforcing. Printing extruder cold ends in ABS or higher temperature materials is recommended, the one shown in that picture is ABS. The 3.00mm variant of that extruder body that was printed at the same time is still in use daily for long prints, and has zero deformation from heat 8 months later. I have older similar style ABS extruder bodies that show no ill effects from printing. A polycarbonate one isn't a bad idea if you can print the material well, but ABS will work great too.